Hey man hope your doing well. I usually put the relief cut on the longer piece of track so that the piece attached to the frame goes into the wall and gets locked in making it stronger. It does screw up the flow of the installation of.board depending on which way you start your drywall. What's your opinion on that. Awesome channel👍
@@johnlee4014 yes, I know it's easier that way but I also screw my door clips in without the tabs. This way is the proper way to do it. Cheers man, I know your comment is over a year old just saw it! Thanks for watching 👍
Quick question, how do you run electrical around corners with this method of locking in the drywall? Do you leave a little slack in the electrical so that you can push in the drywall, or do you just cut the drywall so that it stops before the wire?
Thanks for the super informative video. As a carpenter using wood, metal is a different world but you explain it clearly. Also really appreciate someone who shows pride and quality in their work as i do with mine. 👍👍
Production wood framer and form setter for 20 years. Never touched a steel stud in my life. Starting a new commercial job on Monday. All steel , no wood anywhere. Binge watching your videos so I don’t get caught in a lie “YEAH STEEL, NO PROBLEM” wish me luck.
Haha that's awesome man, I have the exact same story. Was a wood framer before I started in steel. Here is the link to my framing playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLRtmYu3z-FENOxNCqdjW0ey47mSNc5Klm.html If you have any questions be sure to ask and keep me posted! You got this no prob!
The only problem is you will fall in love with steel. Strait stud every time. No sorting out the hockey sticks at home depot. Boxing in duct work with steel is so much better as well, lol.
How did it go? Hope it went well.😂 Furniture guy here for 20 years, no joke. Starting a “yeah steel np” job next week. Wish me luck. And yes i am binging here.
I really appreciate these videos. I'm a steel stud and drywall estimator for the past 10years and my only site work was working with an ignoramus; He was supposed to show me how to frame but all he did was wreak of stale alcohol and grunt at me. It's nice to have someone explain what's being done and why ;-)
Nice!! I love you guys who watch to learn what's going on in the field. Wish more of you guys did. I have some architect and engineer viewers too who come to see what we do.
Appreciate the videos and time man! Brand new to the construction industry overall got a job as a project manager for a drywall contractor doing metal stud framing in Florida just last week straight outta college. Trying to learn as much as I can and currently binge watching this series. Any tips please let me know everything is brand new so wish me luck!
You're in the right place! Absorb as much as possible and relate it to what you see in the field. If you ever have questions leave me a comment! We can always do other things like email and zoom calls if your stuck on something!
I appreciate this videos so much. I’m a first year apprentice framer and rocker, and I’m more rocker than framer at the moment but these videos help so much to become for of a framer.
Excellent stuff, being a rocker first is the best way. I learned framing first so when I started drywall and got good at it I learned how to really frame. It's all about the drywall and finish. Taping teaches you how to be a better boarder as well. If you ever have questions you know how to find me👍
You're doing the Lord's work with these videos. There are very few videos on steel framing and the need for instruction will only grow with the ridiculous price of lumber.
@@ConstructionKronies I'm retired from construction work after 42 years and you be making a school soon. Like your videos and yes. We don't have many framers in metal studs drywallers are a rare breed too. Residential and commercial work differs a lot
Thanks for the video, it's supper helpful. How do you install 2 layers of 5/8 Fire Codecore drywall to Conder Blocks? Can I just glue it or use Wood first? Or any other best practice I should follow?
We have done it a few different ways. 1. is to glue and pinbolt the first layer to the block then glue the second layer to the first - very expensive 2. we frame a furring wall in front with 1-5/8" 25 gauge stud or 3-5/8" so electrical can go in or 6" for plumbing and electrical (this is the best way) 3. we shoot and drill 7/8" furring bar to the block then drywall. (a pain to do)
If i may make a video suggestion although admittedly i haven't looked at every video of yours. How about a short video speaking only about the various types of screws used and why, what, when. Great work you do, highly appreciated.
This is such a gem....After seeing this, official Knauf instruction on cornering looks like a child's play. I red it all and never did they mention anything like this, this is a real deal.
@@ConstructionKronies Damn right it is :D They should copy this and make it official, this structure is superior in every way possible! Thx for sharing. Btw could You make some "T" shape joint construction video if You already haven't, at least I havent seen it jet even if its out there, I havent checked all the videos so far
I am 65 years old and this is how I make a living most of the time. My dad was the forman and I was his assistant. He taught me to do things by myself that were hard for two men to do. I dream of him and work all the time.
I was taught by old school journeymen myself. Your right about them teaching us how to do it on our own. It's amazing actually. Respect to you bro! My dad is more of the business type, 75 years old and still working though, he will never retire says what am I going to do? Watch TV? Haha. Awwh man thanks for sharing bro!
Got a commercial TI coming up with steel stud. Vids are awesome! Thanks for sharing. Could you go over other intersections, T intersections? Partitions (10’) intersecting full height (16’) corners and T intersections? Bracing? Thanks.
Yes for sure! I have a full metal stud framing playlist. The 2 videos I put out before this one go into more detail. I cover everything but the t intersection. For that I can easily draw you a diagram if you catch me live. All you need to know for that is to leave your track back so the drywall can pass through the wall and then you tie in the floater. You can also stop the drywall in the middle of the floater to bring out into the rooms.
Thanks I’ll look for live, most interested in tieing top plates together with different wall heights, or do you brace and rely on drywall for fastening? You’re killin it, keep on making content!
@@MerlinConstruction Okay so what i do when tying in different wall heights is this; find where the new wall runs into the existing and put a brace across the 2 studs in that area. I actually laser the top of the brace to be the top of the wall I need. You can either add a 4 to 6" pc of stud to catch the track or cut a tab out of the track. I use a stud for the brace and lay it flat side out toward the new wall.
sure yes, that happens. You don't need to end the studs tight against each other just stop them so they can be squared close as possible to the end of your track, usually 1 to 3 inches apart. Let the drywall form the corner. Does that make sense?
If you can imagine, overlap and run the top and bottom track ad tight as possible then put the studs in to ad close to the corner as you can get. The studs will be a few inches or more away from the actual corner, just float and 45 the drywall.
I personally use one wood stud on the corners for doors bc I like my stuff to be build likes brick wall . I looked this up bc I haven’t done steal studs in over 20 years so I need a refresher course n this is great to help someone’s memory come back . I think it may be confusing for someone new though I’m 35 years in this field 👍
Awesome explanation. Best so far. Keep going!!! Question - I’m going to put one of my tracks in a steel beam. Don’t want to shoot it. Recommendations on screws and drill bits (size of each and type please).
Okay my man we call these the super screw and are the best ones you can get bit.ly/SuperScrews and these next 2 are your other options; bit.ly/HexWasherHead10 & bit.ly/HexWasherHead8
Very informative video i usually do wood framing but im finishing a basement and would rather do metal plus metal framing is actually cheaper than wood but one question which shots do i use for the ramset for the metal tracks if you know
Yeah the Ramset should have steel to concrete and steel to steel. If you ask a clerk they should be able to tell you. I'll try to look them up and link them too!!
We do commercial steel framing in Canada. I started last year. Ive never seen anyone caulk the bottom track. Some of the guys I work with seem like real pros, everything the do comes out perfectly square and straight everywhere and the finished product is beautiful. Those guys also never use caulk. So Im wondering what is the poiny of using caulk?
It should almost always be used, for water, sound and thermal bridging. On any walls that are dividing or fire rated always use it, on exterior walls we use foam gasket. I'd use it in kitchen, bathroom, all basement walls for sure.
Hi There. Love the videos. I am building my first steel structure this summer and wondering how much time I should allow for a team of 4 guys to closed off ext. walls from corrugated metal siding to drywall (2 X 5 /8 type X), wool insulation. I figured 2 hours per section of 10 linear feet. Walls are 12' high. Does that make sense?
If your taping the inside of the building and using membrane I would allow 38 hours per 10 linear foot ready for paint if your not taping or using membrane allow at least 19 hours per 10 linear ft.
personally I run my slammer stud on the other wall. To me a 81/2 inch wall is stronger than the 4 1/4 wall. Regardless the way you did it will work but my way is better. Good video !
Yes stagger joints are for proper fire rating and strength. Why we also stagger where the bevels land from side to side of a wall with single layer both sides. Cheers man!!
Negative, no. Two things, 1 we always square the stud in the top and bottom track and 2 we use carrying channel every 4' (bar that goes through the stud knockouts).
It has a few purposes that I know of, 1 - Specific Fire Rating, 2- Easily pass drywall through to lock in walls tight and 3- It gives your corners more strength, especially when there is a door it really gives that small leg more meat and potatoes if you know what I mean at the same time it makes it easier to get that little sucka in!
Knowing nothing about framing or drywall, why put the drywall into the stud and tie it in ? Would it not complicate replacing the drywall in the future ? Thanks for the video, very informative.
Some regions are taking the floater stud away and making you put in hard corners everywhere. The floater is great, it saves you a stud on corners and gives a great amount of strength. Replacing it does suck because you have to cut it down at the corner and add a stud but that is rare and usually will be years down the road. At the end of the day you can do whatever you want here as long as your following the job specs.
Given the price of wood, I am considering using metal framing for my basement. Plan on using pressure treated plate on bottom. My question is how to do the ceilings? Should I just drywall my entire ceiling first? Or can I still do it as normal and frame the walls first, then drywall the ceiling, and finally drywall the walls. With the floater not being connected, the order doesn't really matter?
Don't use the pressure treated plate for the bottom just use steel stud track and caulk it with chemtron. Frame the exterior walls first. You can drywall your ceiling and then frame your interior partitions. After that frame and board your bulkheads and drop ceilings. If you have any questions at all let me know. You can send me pics and I can help you even more!!
@@ConstructionKronies My thought for using pressure treated lumber, was to leave gaps so that if a wall leaks, I will be able to find it, instead of trapping it behind the wall. But I would only do this on the exterior and not the interior partitions. Do you have a video on how to frame bulkheads with metal? I need to span 8' from side to side. How would you recommend doing that? I assume using 1-1/2" corner angle and track? Thanks for the quick reply!
Great drawings information, the words are less clear without the drawings! But that's my inexperience confusion in sure. What's the purpose of the caulking - sealer, glue, what?
The caulking is for moisture and separation between substrates. Every wall either has either caulking (interior walls) or foam gasket (exterior walls). It is also an acoustical treatment. Cheers for the feedback I am always wanting to improve so thank you!!!
@@ConstructionKronies I didn’t do it the end, we have to work out how wide the doors are. They’re heavy studio doors so maybe I should add 3/4 inch extra so I can add an extra wood frame?
Yes most of the time. Its always 16" if not noted. Sometimes its 2' and even more rare it's 1'. The drawings and specs will tell you. In your case the foreman will tell you. If no one says anything always put them on 16"
Good tutorial. I am planning to create some partitions for classrooms, but the top track does not go to the roof. It means that there is a space about 20 inches in between them. Do you think it will be strong or weak?
It depends. You can use stronger steel, can add sections that do go all the way up, tie into structural columns, I would need to know more. Sometimes we do offices and the walls are weak but tighten up with drywall. You can add structural type half columns into walls as well to strengthen them. I'd go 20 gauge steel with 5/8" type x drywall.
I am trying to word this right for you. So, the direction you pull your centers from is the flow of drywall so I put the floater stud in the first wall that gets drywall. Just think about the order you want the drywall to go on. Imagine a hallway with rooms, you want to drywall the inside of the wall with all the doors first and then tie in the floaters from the dividing walls. I hope that helps! I will try to remember and do a follow up video for you!
11:52 opposite what you said, it's actually stronger because you have 7" drywall vs 3" and it's also easier to hang since you can slide it through the other wall if hollow metal doors is already attached.
I’m using metal studs in my basement and so I’ll be putting a base plate of PT lumber under the track. How do you do this if using PT under your track?
You sure you want the wood under? I would just use a foam gasket or acoustical caulking like the chemtron. But if you want it, you will need to hammer drill in smack pins!
Interesting! I’m not tied to using the lumber, although I do already have it. I’ve just always been told that you have to use PT under it when framing out a basement. But just using foam gasket makes sense. I think the only question I have is, do I just put the edge of the foam on my chalk line so that the edge of the foam and the metal track all sit flush with the chalk line, or does the foam need to overlap either side of the track? If it does need to overlap, how do I make sure I’m on my line?
no overlap needed, the foam will just go on the bottom of the track centered. sorry I missed your reply UA-cam doesn't notify me properly when someone replies, I need to go in an check for them and I didn't have time till now.
I like to run the Track on the door at ather way , when are welding door is easy to run the drywall in side the frame , all framers need to think as are they hanging the drywall!
Yes, the drywall is the final step in setting.a.door frame it's good when the framer considers the drywall and the boarder knows to get the hinge side locked in first with a laser level.
Sorry for the back to back questions, but which layout do I use for corners of a room where foundation walls are forming the corner? Is that considered an inside corner or outside corner? If it’s an outside corner, and I have foundation wall up against it, would I just screw from the corner stud INTO the track as opposed to going from the track into the corner stud?
Thanks for your videos. Im outfitting my basement and first time using metal studs, Im installing a small kitchen, so my question is... to support the upper kitchen cupboards, should I use 25 gauge or 20 gauge studs?
actually I've been looking for a video explaining the structural differences between these two gauges and if I really need to use 20 if 25 would do the trick (being skimpy on an unemployed budget)
OMG man I am so sorry I missed your comment. I hope this finds you in time. You can use any gauge of steel stud just install 3/4" backing in between them wherever you need structure to hang stuff.
@@filmmakerdude yes 100%, the only thing you need for your ceiling is furring bar and angle. I can teach you exactly how to install it. You can use studs and track as well. It all depends on bulk pricing and if it's worth it to just use the stud and track for everything or buy the 7/8" furring bar 25 gauge and 25 gauge 1-1/4" angle.
You can do hard corners yes, always just check on fire rating requirements. Sometimes the floaters are specified and sometimes the hard corner. In a non fire rated wall you can do it however you want.
You can do hard corners yes, always just check on fire rating requirements. Sometimes the floaters are specified and sometimes the hard corner. In a non fire rated wall you can do it however you want.
I've been told to make the door hinge side of the wall the longer side. So that the floater is on the wall coming perpendicular. Was told this because after a while that small piece of drywall will start to crack if only 3 1/2" or so. having it slide through makes it longer and less susceptible to that. Is this true? Because ive seen both on job sites but told that the way shown is wrong. Thanks
This is actually a long time debate. At the end of the day I don't think it really matters. What really matters here is the fire rating and details around that. We are seeing a new trend in codes requiring hard corners and floaters are being limited. Just know your local code and do what the guy paying you wants. As for the piece cracking that will not happen. Its a taped inside corner and either covered by trim or slipped inside a welded frame.
Why are you caulking the bottom of the track? Seems useless if you're driving a nail through it to secure it to the cement. What length nails do you recommend for the bottom track? What's your stance on using a crimping tool vs. pan head screws to secure the metal studs in the track? My inspector said to use a $20 crimper as it's much faster, easier, and leaves your stud flush (no pan head).
The reason why we caulk the bottom track is to achieve proper thermal and moisture bridging between the change in materials. It is usually code to use 1-1/4" pin bolts and the 3/4" direct fastening pins for say a Hilti or Ramset. Crimpers are $100 here but they are the standard ones we use in the trade so maybe better quality. I think crimping the top track ONLY on the far side is perfectly fine so out of the 4 possible screws you are only using 3 plus a crimp. I use the crimpers for studs I can't get my gun into the space to screw off. However a lot of guys use them for the the backsides completely both top and bottom and only screw in the front side. I am a heavy gauge steel guy, rarely do I do light gauge so I like to make everything super strong and use screws everywhere possible. That is just me though.
We face them hard side the same way we draw our tape measure from. It's instruction to the drywaller on which way to start from as well. Think of them like an arrow pointing in the direction you want the drywall to go. Hard side is the flat side and soft side is the open side. We also always screw the soft side then hard side in the bevels so the studs don't twist. Hope that helps!
Just curious but when you put the 2 studs on each side of the framing for the doors why do you space them out the size of the sheet rock rather than have them butting up to each other like to understand things
Hello Christopher. My apologies for the late reply I was out at the lake for 4 days and had no reception. I am not sure if I understand your question but what I think your saying is: The doors come in different widths for drywall. We level our walls and plumb up the studs so we can use the drywall to space the frames. Fire code demands the drywall to slip in behind the casing of the steal frames. We add a second door stud in after the door clips are screwed in. We don't put drywall in between those studs. I hope this helps clarify.
Hi, I've been watching your videos for last 2 days, and I need some expert help on my project. I want to build a 80 ft long drywall with 18ft height and another 26ft long wall next to it, so basically an L shape. I was wondering do I need some sort of support behind the wall? because it's too long. any suggestions on this would be great, thank you.
Sure I have lots of pointers for you. It may be best to jump on a zoom call so I can more info and draw it out for you. Or I could do a livestream and leave it up on UA-cam for you. Busy days but I do have some evening time to spare.
@@ConstructionKronies both ways are perfect thank you, any way which is easier for you. I really need some help on this project, and I really like your work, you make everything seems easy 😃
Yes we use it on all Exterior walls and use the acoustic caulking like Mono or Chemtron for the interior partitions if it is specified. I like to use it always on fire rated walls for sure and always on Exterior walls.
Thanks for the video mate but there are two things that I am still doubtful about: 1) I don't think that screwing on gyprock is compliant to any code. Plasterboards are not for structural use and since you are screwing the backface of the boards onto the stud on the opposite side that leaves me a bit confused, although I understand that what you are trying to do is to ultimately join two metal studs together, but that piece of plaster shouldn't be sandwiched in there. 2) Plasterboards should be screwed sideways to provide cross-bracing to the wall.
Hey my man! Thanks for the comment. We lock the corners in like that to provide more stability in the wall. Locking in the floaters is a standard practice for all drywallers. 2) Steel stud requires you to "stand-up" your sheets to achieve fire rating and it provides a nicer finish with less taping joints. We only "lay-down" drywall on wood studs. On steel stud you stagger your joints on the opposite side of the wall. The only circumstance you can "laydown" drywall on steel stud is when you can't land the bevels on a center (of stud) for example; a plumbing wall. Hope that makes sense to ya!
How to calculate no of screws needed for 16" o/c? If we have room dimensions 14'*12 and wall ht on all 4 sides 10'? The total area would be 520 SF, right? Can you please confirm the quantities which I have calculated are correct or not? If not can you please share a link to your video or a detailed explanation about the calculation of materials for drywall installation on metal studs? Total Area= 520 SF Total track= 52LF/1.33= 39 plus corners= 2*1.5=3 so total= 39+3= 42*2=84 including top & bottom Drywall area= 1040 SF on both sides. No of sheets= 520/32=17 sheets*2= 34 sheets (4'*8') No of screws= total area*12/16= 520*12/16=390 screws will need it right? All of these are correct or did I make mistake? If you have any video figuring out all the materials as far as estimating drywall materials for commercial construction is concerned then it would be great.
Hey there, thanks for the question. It's important not to complicate it. First tip is to round up to even numbers of standard material sizes. For a 14x12 you will need 12 pieces of track (10' lengths) and you need 1 stud for every foot of wall when its 16" o.c. so 52 l.f you need 52 studs. Drywall get 10' sheets and you will need 26 sheets minimum and I would always get and extra sheet or two. Screws come in boxes so grab a 5lbs pack of 1-1/4" drywall and a 5lbs box of framing wafers. For the mud, count your corner beads, get 1 500' roll of 2" tape, 2 boxes yellow and 2 boxes greeen! That'll get er done!
@@ConstructionKronies thanks for the reply, I didn’t get it. I have some doubts. Would it possible for you to connect over zoom or any other platform so I can ask some questions back & forth?if you don’t mind??
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks a lot for your response. I understood, as far as track & studs are concerned but how did you end up with 26 sheets of drywall? have you used 4'*12' of drywall? How many screws come per LB per 1 box if I want to calculate skews in numbers?
Use 4'x10' sheets (40sf) instead 8' sheets. You will save on taping joints and not have to cut the sheets tomdit.on 10' studs. Screws go every 8" in the bevels, 16" in the field studs and 4 on top and 4 on bottom.
Yes sometimes. Some designers will specify double studs. I always reccomend using 20 gauge studs for your doors in light gauge walls instead of 2 light gauge studs.
I wouldn't recommend it in the concrete but hex head self drillers 1/4" or 3/8" will work for any steel. Use the smack pins (pinbolts) in the concrete, hammer drill first.
It's best to leave the whole stud loose. But 2 things, sometimes you need to put 1 screw in at the top for safety. If it's a high wall or light gauge something that could fall out and hit someone and 2 the general contractor may have it in the rules to put 1 in. They will tell you if there have that rule don't ask cause they will always say yes 👍
@@ConstructionKronies why go to the effort of 1 at the top, when 1 at the bottom is enough, and can work your way upwards? Not sure about some of your practises
yes man, gloves are important. When I am doing light gauge I don't always wear gloves but as soon as i go to 20 gauge or lower i will for sure. My hands are like wooden paddles man haha!
Sure you can, just not where doors are. I saw your other comment about zooming in, I send the pdfs to guys who email me at chris@constructionkronies.com!
Been doing this trade for 10 years, wondering why the overlap of metel? No point unless serious soft screed to fix to? Just nail the metal down and place adjacent metal separate, only make other peoples work harder
Hey my guy! It's to give you strength and accuracy for sure. It also acts as a full system with the floater studs and locking the drywall in. Gives you both fire rating and strength. Also, we copy the same on the top track and that gives you many benefits when most walls don't go all the way up to the deck.
Again, another misconception. You do you bro all good, we utilize drywall to minimize scrap and joints, the standard door frame is drywalled in 3 pieces, your full piece, buck piece and leg like I show you in the video.
@@ConstructionKronies you do drywall to minimizing scraps and JOINTS but you decided to 3 piece it lol? No misconceptions whatsoever as a couple other guys who knows what they're doing also called you out on it. The most important part is putting drywall around a door that constantly twist the king stud leading to cracks. You're supposed to 1 piece it by notching the sheet of drywall and break on a cripple and the fact that you had to 2 piece it tells me you're mediocre at best. We appreciate the videos though and you mean well but you're perpetuating a new generation of hacks.
@@alex46801 I whole heartedly disagree with you. It will not ever twist or crack. The secret is to tie in the floater stud first. Your way is only good when doing the outside first, we try to always do the inside first. At the end of the day its going to be the same strength. Trust me bro, been doing this for 30 years and I haven't seen your way since my early days. I have never 1 time been called back to a job (I offer a 5 year warranty) to fix anything. This is something we have debated in the past on this channel. Respect bro, what we do is not easy, its a tough job. I appreciate your insight!
That's good advice, I don't always wear gloves when framing light gauge but always with heavy gauge. My hands are leather bro, but you are right we should always have them.
Haha bro, I've done thousands of videos for UA-cam, its a crazy process, try working and making videos yourself if you think you can do better. I'm trying to help as much as I can.
Keep Learning Metal Stud Framing HERE: bit.ly/ExpertFramingLessons
Hey man hope your doing well. I usually put the relief cut on the longer piece of track so that the piece attached to the frame goes into the wall and gets locked in making it stronger. It does screw up the flow of the installation of.board depending on which way you start your drywall. What's your opinion on that. Awesome channel👍
@@johnlee4014 yes, I know it's easier that way but I also screw my door clips in without the tabs. This way is the proper way to do it. Cheers man, I know your comment is over a year old just saw it! Thanks for watching 👍
Quick question, how do you run electrical around corners with this method of locking in the drywall? Do you leave a little slack in the electrical so that you can push in the drywall, or do you just cut the drywall so that it stops before the wire?
Thanks for the super informative video. As a carpenter using wood, metal is a different world but you explain it clearly. Also really appreciate someone who shows pride and quality in their work as i do with mine. 👍👍
Cheers🍺🍻
Production wood framer and form setter for 20 years. Never touched a steel stud in my life. Starting a new commercial job on Monday. All steel , no wood anywhere. Binge watching your videos so I don’t get caught in a lie “YEAH STEEL, NO PROBLEM” wish me luck.
Haha that's awesome man, I have the exact same story. Was a wood framer before I started in steel. Here is the link to my framing playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLRtmYu3z-FENOxNCqdjW0ey47mSNc5Klm.html If you have any questions be sure to ask and keep me posted! You got this no prob!
The only problem is you will fall in love with steel. Strait stud every time. No sorting out the hockey sticks at home depot. Boxing in duct work with steel is so much better as well, lol.
How did it go? Hope it went well.😂 Furniture guy here for 20 years, no joke. Starting a “yeah steel np” job next week. Wish me luck. And yes i am binging here.
@@RedHeatedStepChildhow was that?
I really appreciate these videos. I'm a steel stud and drywall estimator for the past 10years and my only site work was working with an ignoramus; He was supposed to show me how to frame but all he did was wreak of stale alcohol and grunt at me. It's nice to have someone explain what's being done and why ;-)
Nice!! I love you guys who watch to learn what's going on in the field. Wish more of you guys did. I have some architect and engineer viewers too who come to see what we do.
Appreciate the videos and time man! Brand new to the construction industry overall got a job as a project manager for a drywall contractor doing metal stud framing in Florida just last week straight outta college. Trying to learn as much as I can and currently binge watching this series. Any tips please let me know everything is brand new so wish me luck!
You're in the right place! Absorb as much as possible and relate it to what you see in the field. If you ever have questions leave me a comment! We can always do other things like email and zoom calls if your stuck on something!
I appreciate this videos so much. I’m a first year apprentice framer and rocker, and I’m more rocker than framer at the moment but these videos help so much to become for of a framer.
Excellent stuff, being a rocker first is the best way. I learned framing first so when I started drywall and got good at it I learned how to really frame. It's all about the drywall and finish. Taping teaches you how to be a better boarder as well. If you ever have questions you know how to find me👍
You're doing the Lord's work with these videos. There are very few videos on steel framing and the need for instruction will only grow with the ridiculous price of lumber.
Thanks man!! I appreciate that. This is why I do it, not a lot of help out there for commercial construction. I am glad to help!!
@@ConstructionKronies I'm retired from construction work after 42 years and you be making a school soon. Like your videos and yes. We don't have many framers in metal studs drywallers are a rare breed too. Residential and commercial work differs a lot
Thank you for teaching me how to do corners. I really appreciate the door corner.
You are very welcome! Thank you for the comment bro!
Thanks for the video, it's supper helpful. How do you install 2 layers of 5/8 Fire Codecore drywall to Conder Blocks? Can I just glue it or use Wood first? Or any other best practice I should follow?
We have done it a few different ways. 1. is to glue and pinbolt the first layer to the block then glue the second layer to the first - very expensive
2. we frame a furring wall in front with 1-5/8" 25 gauge stud or 3-5/8" so electrical can go in or 6" for plumbing and electrical (this is the best way) 3. we shoot and drill 7/8" furring bar to the block then drywall. (a pain to do)
@@ConstructionKronies Thank you again! I think I will go with the second option you have mentioned. Keep making all the great videos, super helpful.
Thanks for the very detailed description of the work process. I've learned a lot watching this.
Very cool, I appreciate the comment 👍
If i may make a video suggestion although admittedly i haven't looked at every video of yours.
How about a short video speaking only about the various types of screws used and why, what, when.
Great work you do, highly appreciated.
Love the idea, thank you. 💪
This is such a gem....After seeing this, official Knauf instruction on cornering looks like a child's play. I red it all and never did they mention anything like this, this is a real deal.
Thanks man! Super appreciate that! Learning in the field is totally different from the books!
@@ConstructionKronies Damn right it is :D They should copy this and make it official, this structure is superior in every way possible! Thx for sharing. Btw could You make some "T" shape joint construction video if You already haven't, at least I havent seen it jet even if its out there, I havent checked all the videos so far
Best video. U have ever done u should do all videos like this I’m taking a metal stud test tommorow and I hope I pass been watching your videos
Thanks man, I really do appreciate the feedback. I have great success with this format, I will start doing it more!
These videos are amazing please make another
Nvm Im idiot there’s a playlist 😂
Thanks for this lesson. In my 20+ years I I haven’t gone out to many jobs sites for my commercial projects so this helps greatly.
that's great! If you ever want me to go over anything just ask!
Would be nice to see a video of you framing an outdoor kitchen using steel studs
Thanyou.You are an inspiration,Bro
This are the kind of videos that will get you 100k subscribers Chris, keep it up very well explain too
Dude!! Thanks man!! I'm so sorry I missed this when you posted!!
Bro you are the king! God bless you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you and you too!
hi I have question, why did you leave 5/8 space between door stud and floater? Thank you muchly
Sure yes, just so we have room to move the stud and get the drywall in.
Great videos keep them coming. Question, double drywall , should i add to formula or not ?
Yes, you bet, for double 5/8 go 1-1/2" and if it's double half inch for some reason go 1-1/4" for the tab plus the steel width.
SO BEAUTIFUL EXPLANATIONS. THANK YOU.
You are welcome 🙏
I am 65 years old and this is how I make a living most of the time. My dad was the forman and I was his assistant. He taught me to do things by myself that were hard for two men to do. I dream of him and work all the time.
I was taught by old school journeymen myself. Your right about them teaching us how to do it on our own. It's amazing actually. Respect to you bro! My dad is more of the business type, 75 years old and still working though, he will never retire says what am I going to do? Watch TV? Haha. Awwh man thanks for sharing bro!
Got a commercial TI coming up with steel stud. Vids are awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Could you go over other intersections, T intersections? Partitions (10’) intersecting full height (16’) corners and T intersections? Bracing?
Thanks.
Yes for sure! I have a full metal stud framing playlist. The 2 videos I put out before this one go into more detail. I cover everything but the t intersection. For that I can easily draw you a diagram if you catch me live. All you need to know for that is to leave your track back so the drywall can pass through the wall and then you tie in the floater. You can also stop the drywall in the middle of the floater to bring out into the rooms.
Thanks I’ll look for live, most interested in tieing top plates together with different wall heights, or do you brace and rely on drywall for fastening?
You’re killin it, keep on making content!
@@MerlinConstruction Okay so what i do when tying in different wall heights is this; find where the new wall runs into the existing and put a brace across the 2 studs in that area. I actually laser the top of the brace to be the top of the wall I need. You can either add a 4 to 6" pc of stud to catch the track or cut a tab out of the track. I use a stud for the brace and lay it flat side out toward the new wall.
Mate, have you a suggestion on stud positioning and track cutting on a 45 deg corner? Not 90.
sure yes, that happens. You don't need to end the studs tight against each other just stop them so they can be squared close as possible to the end of your track, usually 1 to 3 inches apart. Let the drywall form the corner. Does that make sense?
@@ConstructionKronies yes thank you.
Many thanks for the vidio. Please could you explain how to make a corner where the angle is not 90° but 115°?
If you can imagine, overlap and run the top and bottom track ad tight as possible then put the studs in to ad close to the corner as you can get. The studs will be a few inches or more away from the actual corner, just float and 45 the drywall.
Great video explaining the corners
Do you need dpc for bottom of your tracks since metal is in contact with concrete??
Yes I like to use chemtron on everything interior and foam gasket on exterior.
I personally use one wood stud on the corners for doors bc I like my stuff to be build likes brick wall . I looked this up bc I haven’t done steal studs in over 20 years so I need a refresher course n this is great to help someone’s memory come back . I think it may be confusing for someone new though I’m 35 years in this field 👍
Hey thanks for stopping in! Very good to know an experienced guys opinion for real 👍
Awesome explanation. Best so far. Keep going!!! Question - I’m going to put one of my tracks in a steel beam. Don’t want to shoot it. Recommendations on screws and drill bits (size of each and type please).
Use the self drilling 1/4" or 3/8" super (hex) screws!! I'll link you a product in the morning when I. Back on my computer!!
Okay my man we call these the super screw and are the best ones you can get bit.ly/SuperScrews and these next 2 are your other options; bit.ly/HexWasherHead10 & bit.ly/HexWasherHead8
@@ConstructionKronies Really appreciate it!!!
!
@@OakMerchantSolutions Anytime!!!
Thanks bro..this was very informative and will teach me how to properly install my corners..Good looking out..
Thanks for the comment, appreciate you!!
The overlap is soo unnecessary, can place some adjacent and works the same, waster
Very informative video i usually do wood framing but im finishing a basement and would rather do metal plus metal framing is actually cheaper than wood but one question which shots do i use for the ramset for the metal tracks if you know
Yeah the Ramset should have steel to concrete and steel to steel. If you ask a clerk they should be able to tell you. I'll try to look them up and link them too!!
Readying myself for an apprenticeship for metal studs and Sheetrock, this video is awesome and I learned a lot Thankyou! 🙌🙌
That's awesome man! Please let me know if you have any questions!
We do commercial steel framing in Canada. I started last year. Ive never seen anyone caulk the bottom track. Some of the guys I work with seem like real pros, everything the do comes out perfectly square and straight everywhere and the finished product is beautiful. Those guys also never use caulk. So Im wondering what is the poiny of using caulk?
It should almost always be used, for water, sound and thermal bridging. On any walls that are dividing or fire rated always use it, on exterior walls we use foam gasket. I'd use it in kitchen, bathroom, all basement walls for sure.
Thanks for the reply. I guess I work for a company that cuts a lotta corners then. We do fire rated walls all the time, but we have never used caulk.
Hi There. Love the videos. I am building my first steel structure this summer and wondering how much time I should allow for a team of 4 guys to closed off ext. walls from corrugated metal siding to drywall (2 X 5 /8 type X), wool insulation. I figured 2 hours per section of 10 linear feet. Walls are 12' high. Does that make sense?
If your taping the inside of the building and using membrane I would allow 38 hours per 10 linear foot ready for paint if your not taping or using membrane allow at least 19 hours per 10 linear ft.
@@ConstructionKronies thanks for the reply...do you mean 4 guys @ 19 hours each so total of 76 man hours for 10 linear foot section no taping. ?
No that is based on 4 guys, 19 hours for 4 guys. And your very welcome
Thank you man, شكرا يا رجل
✌️
You are very welcome!
Should you use caulk for the bottom side of the track or a thin sheet of foam? If caulk, what kind of caulk do you recommend?
Yes we use the Chemtron acoustical caulking under the bottom track for interior partitions and foam gasket for exterior walls.
Amazing video!! Do you not need to put pressure treated base plates down on the floor?
Nope, not with steel. But you do need a foam gasket for exterior walls and chemtron black acoustical caulking for interior walls.
Great way of explaining things
personally I run my slammer stud on the other wall. To me a 81/2 inch wall is stronger than the 4 1/4 wall. Regardless the way you did it will work but my way is better. Good video !
I have heard some guys do it that way🤘
Brilliant detailed video, Thank You 👍
Can you explain the Staggered joint's, is it for 🔥 ?
Yes stagger joints are for proper fire rating and strength. Why we also stagger where the bevels land from side to side of a wall with single layer both sides. Cheers man!!
This is great info, thanks for the effort!
Your welcome, thank you for leaving a comment!
When you have walls taller than 10 ft do you have to add purlins to prevent twisting?
Negative, no. Two things, 1 we always square the stud in the top and bottom track and 2 we use carrying channel every 4' (bar that goes through the stud knockouts).
Great video and tips keep up the great work
Thank you and I will for sure👍🙏
Your building videos are so interesting
Thanks Bob!!!
What gauge should be used for external load bearing walls millimetres
We use 16 to 18 gauge wind load studs, 6" or 8"
The floater stud is a wonderful method. But what is the concept of it,if you don't mind me asking?. Reason?
It has a few purposes that I know of, 1 - Specific Fire Rating, 2- Easily pass drywall through to lock in walls tight and 3- It gives your corners more strength, especially when there is a door it really gives that small leg more meat and potatoes if you know what I mean at the same time it makes it easier to get that little sucka in!
@@ConstructionKronies that's amazing brother thank you for your help
Knowing nothing about framing or drywall, why put the drywall into the stud and tie it in ? Would it not complicate replacing the drywall in the future ? Thanks for the video, very informative.
Some regions are taking the floater stud away and making you put in hard corners everywhere. The floater is great, it saves you a stud on corners and gives a great amount of strength. Replacing it does suck because you have to cut it down at the corner and add a stud but that is rare and usually will be years down the road. At the end of the day you can do whatever you want here as long as your following the job specs.
@@ConstructionKronies thank you for the reply
@@RONNIEJNZN you bet, I hope that makes sense bro!
Given the price of wood, I am considering using metal framing for my basement. Plan on using pressure treated plate on bottom. My question is how to do the ceilings? Should I just drywall my entire ceiling first? Or can I still do it as normal and frame the walls first, then drywall the ceiling, and finally drywall the walls. With the floater not being connected, the order doesn't really matter?
Don't use the pressure treated plate for the bottom just use steel stud track and caulk it with chemtron. Frame the exterior walls first. You can drywall your ceiling and then frame your interior partitions. After that frame and board your bulkheads and drop ceilings. If you have any questions at all let me know. You can send me pics and I can help you even more!!
@@ConstructionKronies My thought for using pressure treated lumber, was to leave gaps so that if a wall leaks, I will be able to find it, instead of trapping it behind the wall. But I would only do this on the exterior and not the interior partitions. Do you have a video on how to frame bulkheads with metal? I need to span 8' from side to side. How would you recommend doing that? I assume using 1-1/2" corner angle and track? Thanks for the quick reply!
Great drawings information, the words are less clear without the drawings! But that's my inexperience confusion in sure. What's the purpose of the caulking - sealer, glue, what?
The caulking is for moisture and separation between substrates. Every wall either has either caulking (interior walls) or foam gasket (exterior walls). It is also an acoustical treatment. Cheers for the feedback I am always wanting to improve so thank you!!!
Fantastic video. I’ll be doing this today!
How'd it go?
@@ConstructionKronies I didn’t do it the end, we have to work out how wide the doors are. They’re heavy studio doors so maybe I should add 3/4 inch extra so I can add an extra wood frame?
Are you always going on 16” centers? I’m new.
Yes most of the time. Its always 16" if not noted. Sometimes its 2' and even more rare it's 1'. The drawings and specs will tell you. In your case the foreman will tell you. If no one says anything always put them on 16"
Good tutorial. I am planning to create some partitions for classrooms, but the top track does not go to the roof. It means that there is a space about 20 inches in between them. Do you think it will be strong or weak?
It depends. You can use stronger steel, can add sections that do go all the way up, tie into structural columns, I would need to know more. Sometimes we do offices and the walls are weak but tighten up with drywall. You can add structural type half columns into walls as well to strengthen them. I'd go 20 gauge steel with 5/8" type x drywall.
Hi, what type of caulking did you used?
Yes I use the Chemtron or Mono acoustical caulking.
On corners, How do you pick which track gets the cut for the floater and which runs the whole way thru?
I am trying to word this right for you. So, the direction you pull your centers from is the flow of drywall so I put the floater stud in the first wall that gets drywall. Just think about the order you want the drywall to go on. Imagine a hallway with rooms, you want to drywall the inside of the wall with all the doors first and then tie in the floaters from the dividing walls. I hope that helps! I will try to remember and do a follow up video for you!
@@ConstructionKronies nice thank you! The first part made sense, got lost on the last part lol
11:52 opposite what you said, it's actually stronger because you have 7" drywall vs 3" and it's also easier to hang since you can slide it through the other wall if hollow metal doors is already attached.
Yeah, that's a common misconception many people think.
I’m using metal studs in my basement and so I’ll be putting a base plate of PT lumber under the track. How do you do this if using PT under your track?
You sure you want the wood under? I would just use a foam gasket or acoustical caulking like the chemtron. But if you want it, you will need to hammer drill in smack pins!
Interesting! I’m not tied to using the lumber, although I do already have it. I’ve just always been told that you have to use PT under it when framing out a basement. But just using foam gasket makes sense. I think the only question I have is, do I just put the edge of the foam on my chalk line so that the edge of the foam and the metal track all sit flush with the chalk line, or does the foam need to overlap either side of the track? If it does need to overlap, how do I make sure I’m on my line?
no overlap needed, the foam will just go on the bottom of the track centered. sorry I missed your reply UA-cam doesn't notify me properly when someone replies, I need to go in an check for them and I didn't have time till now.
I like to run the Track on the door at ather way , when are welding door is easy to run the drywall in side the frame , all framers need to think as are they hanging the drywall!
Yes, the drywall is the final step in setting.a.door frame it's good when the framer considers the drywall and the boarder knows to get the hinge side locked in first with a laser level.
What type of cualking do you suggest for the floor tracks?
We use the Chemtron acoustical caulking, it's black and messy.
Sorry for the back to back questions, but which layout do I use for corners of a room where foundation walls are forming the corner? Is that considered an inside corner or outside corner? If it’s an outside corner, and I have foundation wall up against it, would I just screw from the corner stud INTO the track as opposed to going from the track into the corner stud?
Yes exactly. I use crimpers for light gauge as well for the backsides you can't get a drill in, just do a small half crimp and toss a screw in.
@@ConstructionKronies ok awesome, so that’s considered an “outside” corner, correct?
every corner will have an inside and outside. Sometimes we only drywall one side.
Thanks for your videos. Im outfitting my basement and first time using metal studs, Im installing a small kitchen, so my question is... to support the upper kitchen cupboards, should I use 25 gauge or 20 gauge studs?
actually I've been looking for a video explaining the structural differences between these two gauges and if I really need to use 20 if 25 would do the trick (being skimpy on an unemployed budget)
OMG man I am so sorry I missed your comment. I hope this finds you in time. You can use any gauge of steel stud just install 3/4" backing in between them wherever you need structure to hang stuff.
Yes sorry you can totally use the 25 gauge. You won't need 20 gauge anywhere in the basement.
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks man, I appreciate you. One other question...hanging drywall ceiling is ok too for 25 gauge?
@@filmmakerdude yes 100%, the only thing you need for your ceiling is furring bar and angle. I can teach you exactly how to install it. You can use studs and track as well. It all depends on bulk pricing and if it's worth it to just use the stud and track for everything or buy the 7/8" furring bar 25 gauge and 25 gauge 1-1/4" angle.
instead of a floating stud can you do a California corner? Or does that not work with metal?
You can do hard corners yes, always just check on fire rating requirements. Sometimes the floaters are specified and sometimes the hard corner. In a non fire rated wall you can do it however you want.
You can do hard corners yes, always just check on fire rating requirements. Sometimes the floaters are specified and sometimes the hard corner. In a non fire rated wall you can do it however you want.
Do you use different type of screws for metal studs?
Yes we use black phosphate screws for light gauge and zinc coated self drillers for heavy gauge.
Good, the way I do is cut the drywall 1-1/4" and slide in then screw it together
I've been told to make the door hinge side of the wall the longer side. So that the floater is on the wall coming perpendicular. Was told this because after a while that small piece of drywall will start to crack if only 3 1/2" or so. having it slide through makes it longer and less susceptible to that. Is this true? Because ive seen both on job sites but told that the way shown is wrong. Thanks
This is actually a long time debate. At the end of the day I don't think it really matters. What really matters here is the fire rating and details around that. We are seeing a new trend in codes requiring hard corners and floaters are being limited. Just know your local code and do what the guy paying you wants. As for the piece cracking that will not happen. Its a taped inside corner and either covered by trim or slipped inside a welded frame.
You are correct, floater goes on the other perpendicular wall. Easier to hang drywall too.
Why are you caulking the bottom of the track? Seems useless if you're driving a nail through it to secure it to the cement.
What length nails do you recommend for the bottom track?
What's your stance on using a crimping tool vs. pan head screws to secure the metal studs in the track? My inspector said to use a $20 crimper as it's much faster, easier, and leaves your stud flush (no pan head).
The reason why we caulk the bottom track is to achieve proper thermal and moisture bridging between the change in materials. It is usually code to use 1-1/4" pin bolts and the 3/4" direct fastening pins for say a Hilti or Ramset. Crimpers are $100 here but they are the standard ones we use in the trade so maybe better quality. I think crimping the top track ONLY on the far side is perfectly fine so out of the 4 possible screws you are only using 3 plus a crimp. I use the crimpers for studs I can't get my gun into the space to screw off. However a lot of guys use them for the the backsides completely both top and bottom and only screw in the front side. I am a heavy gauge steel guy, rarely do I do light gauge so I like to make everything super strong and use screws everywhere possible. That is just me though.
How do you know which direction to put the studs?
We face them hard side the same way we draw our tape measure from. It's instruction to the drywaller on which way to start from as well. Think of them like an arrow pointing in the direction you want the drywall to go. Hard side is the flat side and soft side is the open side. We also always screw the soft side then hard side in the bevels so the studs don't twist. Hope that helps!
Just curious but when you put the 2 studs on each side of the framing for the doors why do you space them out the size of the sheet rock rather than have them butting up to each other like to understand things
Hello Christopher. My apologies for the late reply I was out at the lake for 4 days and had no reception. I am not sure if I understand your question but what I think your saying is: The doors come in different widths for drywall. We level our walls and plumb up the studs so we can use the drywall to space the frames. Fire code demands the drywall to slip in behind the casing of the steal frames. We add a second door stud in after the door clips are screwed in. We don't put drywall in between those studs. I hope this helps clarify.
Excellent!
Thank you👍
Hi, I've been watching your videos for last 2 days, and I need some expert help on my project. I want to build a 80 ft long drywall with 18ft height and another 26ft long wall next to it, so basically an L shape. I was wondering do I need some sort of support behind the wall? because it's too long. any suggestions on this would be great, thank you.
oh, and we are planning to build it in a warehouse
Sure I have lots of pointers for you. It may be best to jump on a zoom call so I can more info and draw it out for you. Or I could do a livestream and leave it up on UA-cam for you. Busy days but I do have some evening time to spare.
@@ConstructionKronies both ways are perfect thank you, any way which is easier for you. I really need some help on this project, and I really like your work, you make everything seems easy 😃
You guys don't have to use a sil gasket in Alberta?
Yes we use it on all Exterior walls and use the acoustic caulking like Mono or Chemtron for the interior partitions if it is specified. I like to use it always on fire rated walls for sure and always on Exterior walls.
Thanks for the video mate but there are two things that I am still doubtful about: 1) I don't think that screwing on gyprock is compliant to any code. Plasterboards are not for structural use and since you are screwing the backface of the boards onto the stud on the opposite side that leaves me a bit confused, although I understand that what you are trying to do is to ultimately join two metal studs together, but that piece of plaster shouldn't be sandwiched in there. 2) Plasterboards should be screwed sideways to provide cross-bracing to the wall.
Hey my man! Thanks for the comment. We lock the corners in like that to provide more stability in the wall. Locking in the floaters is a standard practice for all drywallers. 2) Steel stud requires you to "stand-up" your sheets to achieve fire rating and it provides a nicer finish with less taping joints. We only "lay-down" drywall on wood studs. On steel stud you stagger your joints on the opposite side of the wall. The only circumstance you can "laydown" drywall on steel stud is when you can't land the bevels on a center (of stud) for example; a plumbing wall. Hope that makes sense to ya!
So, one thing I don't think you explained was how to mark off the studs after a floater. Do I just add the drywall thickness to the 16" oc?
yes thats right. We plan the drywall layout and then transfer that to our centers by adding the thickness of the board.
How to calculate no of screws needed for 16" o/c? If we have room dimensions 14'*12 and wall ht on all 4 sides 10'? The total area would be 520 SF, right? Can you please confirm the quantities which I have calculated are correct or not? If not can you please share a link to your video or a detailed explanation about the calculation of materials for drywall installation on metal studs?
Total Area= 520 SF
Total track= 52LF/1.33= 39 plus corners= 2*1.5=3 so total= 39+3= 42*2=84 including top & bottom
Drywall area= 1040 SF on both sides.
No of sheets= 520/32=17 sheets*2= 34 sheets (4'*8')
No of screws= total area*12/16= 520*12/16=390 screws will need it right?
All of these are correct or did I make mistake? If you have any video figuring out all the materials as far as estimating drywall materials for commercial construction is concerned then it would be great.
Hey there, thanks for the question. It's important not to complicate it. First tip is to round up to even numbers of standard material sizes. For a 14x12 you will need 12 pieces of track (10' lengths) and you need 1 stud for every foot of wall when its 16" o.c. so 52 l.f you need 52 studs. Drywall get 10' sheets and you will need 26 sheets minimum and I would always get and extra sheet or two. Screws come in boxes so grab a 5lbs pack of 1-1/4" drywall and a 5lbs box of framing wafers. For the mud, count your corner beads, get 1 500' roll of 2" tape, 2 boxes yellow and 2 boxes greeen! That'll get er done!
@@ConstructionKronies thanks for the reply, I didn’t get it. I have some doubts. Would it possible for you to connect over zoom or any other platform so I can ask some questions back & forth?if you don’t mind??
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks a lot for your response. I understood, as far as track & studs are concerned but how did you end up with 26 sheets of drywall? have you used 4'*12' of drywall? How many screws come per LB per 1 box if I want to calculate skews in numbers?
@@ConstructionKronies I haven't received a response from you?
Use 4'x10' sheets (40sf) instead 8' sheets. You will save on taping joints and not have to cut the sheets tomdit.on 10' studs. Screws go every 8" in the bevels, 16" in the field studs and 4 on top and 4 on bottom.
What type of caulking under the track?
Acoustical, brand name Mono or Chemtron. It's black.
Cheers. We’ve been using blueskin wp200 and it’s expensive. Keep up the good work man 👍🏻
Do you not have to put 2 studs on each side of the door?
Yes sometimes. Some designers will specify double studs. I always reccomend using 20 gauge studs for your doors in light gauge walls instead of 2 light gauge studs.
Nice!
Can you use tapcons if you don't have a nailer
I wouldn't recommend it in the concrete but hex head self drillers 1/4" or 3/8" will work for any steel. Use the smack pins (pinbolts) in the concrete, hammer drill first.
Do you fasten the floater studs at the top and just leave the bottom loose? Or is the whole stud loose?
It's best to leave the whole stud loose. But 2 things, sometimes you need to put 1 screw in at the top for safety. If it's a high wall or light gauge something that could fall out and hit someone and 2 the general contractor may have it in the rules to put 1 in. They will tell you if there have that rule don't ask cause they will always say yes 👍
@@ConstructionKronies Fully noted. Thank you so much for the solid advice as well as the rapid response. Much appreciated!!
@@ConstructionKronies why go to the effort of 1 at the top, when 1 at the bottom is enough, and can work your way upwards? Not sure about some of your practises
Love the video
Videos asi me gustan. Do it more. Thanks
You bet!!
Yo kronie!
😆😊👍
Yo Amos!!!
steel studs no gloves :O straight up gangsta sh*t son :O
yes man, gloves are important. When I am doing light gauge I don't always wear gloves but as soon as i go to 20 gauge or lower i will for sure. My hands are like wooden paddles man haha!
No insolation needed inside the walls??🤔
No, not all walls have insulation. The client did not want it on this job.
“I’d use an angle grinder.”
-My boss, 2024
Can you overlap either way?
Sure you can, just not where doors are. I saw your other comment about zooming in, I send the pdfs to guys who email me at chris@constructionkronies.com!
Been doing this trade for 10 years, wondering why the overlap of metel? No point unless serious soft screed to fix to? Just nail the metal down and place adjacent metal separate, only make other peoples work harder
I would love to work with you what does it take.??
I love the trade
show how you fasten it
With screws..... Haha
Not sure why you lap your bottom track
Hey my guy! It's to give you strength and accuracy for sure. It also acts as a full system with the floater studs and locking the drywall in. Gives you both fire rating and strength. Also, we copy the same on the top track and that gives you many benefits when most walls don't go all the way up to the deck.
👍
Thanks man!!
If you want to know if a guy is a good boarder, ask the taper who comes after him ;-)
100%
I'd advise anyone who finds this interesting to go trade school as a "lather" ISM carpenter get certified
That's great advice! We just lost our ISM program at the local trade school here, very sad.
Drywall should be one piece around the door frame, that little 3" cut leg on hinge side is weak and should've ran through to the other wall.
Again, another misconception. You do you bro all good, we utilize drywall to minimize scrap and joints, the standard door frame is drywalled in 3 pieces, your full piece, buck piece and leg like I show you in the video.
@@ConstructionKronies you do drywall to minimizing scraps and JOINTS but you decided to 3 piece it lol?
No misconceptions whatsoever as a couple other guys who knows what they're doing also called you out on it.
The most important part is putting drywall around a door that constantly twist the king stud leading to cracks.
You're supposed to 1 piece it by notching the sheet of drywall and break on a cripple and the fact that you had to 2 piece it tells me you're mediocre at best.
We appreciate the videos though and you mean well but you're perpetuating a new generation of hacks.
@@alex46801 I whole heartedly disagree with you. It will not ever twist or crack. The secret is to tie in the floater stud first. Your way is only good when doing the outside first, we try to always do the inside first. At the end of the day its going to be the same strength. Trust me bro, been doing this for 30 years and I haven't seen your way since my early days. I have never 1 time been called back to a job (I offer a 5 year warranty) to fix anything. This is something we have debated in the past on this channel. Respect bro, what we do is not easy, its a tough job. I appreciate your insight!
@@ConstructionKronies "trust me bro" for a 5 year warranty, no thanks 😂😂😂
WEAR FREAKING GLOVES PEOPLE!!!!!!!!
That's good advice, I don't always wear gloves when framing light gauge but always with heavy gauge. My hands are leather bro, but you are right we should always have them.
More framing body
You got it!! Wait until my studio is finished being built I will be doing a lot of tutorials on framing from it!! Thanks for commenting!
Here is the link to my framing playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLRtmYu3z-FENOxNCqdjW0ey47mSNc5Klm.html
👍🏽🍻🍺👍🏼
Cheers with beers bro!! Thanks for the idea about doing my videos like this. They are performing better than all my other videos!!!!
Why dont you show how to cut a conner thats at a 45 degree angle like a ferdown you dont know how to do it do you lol
I dunno man, thats very very tricky.... haha! I have shown them in past vids and I have 2 of them in this new job! I will show ya!
That’s not leaving up to 4-1:4 that’s Leung 5/8 now 4-1/2 leaves a 1/4 oG play
Mmmmmmmmmmmmm!
Some of the techniques your showing is soo far from the real work involved
Huh? What do you mean? That's probably the most interesting comment, how do you figur
Gotta speed it up to 2x playback speed to make it even tolerable. Get on with it man.
Haha bro, I've done thousands of videos for UA-cam, its a crazy process, try working and making videos yourself if you think you can do better. I'm trying to help as much as I can.