None of the brake components were torqued in this video. Torque Specs (2011-2013): Caliper Pin Flange Bolt = 37 lb-ft Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt = 101 lb-ft Brake Disk Flathead Screw = 6.9 lb-ft Brake Disk Removal Bolts (x2) = 8 x 1.25mm Brake Bedding After New Pads is very important to prevent future judder ("warping")
+MOIN KAMAL Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
+TigerKitty 2 Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Interesting video for a beginning DYI person. Omitted from the video are a few very important steps such as cleaning and lube the guide pins with a possibility to change the guideline boots if they are included, cleaning and check the brake piston boots for cracks, and most of all, wtf happened to torque all the brake bolts to the correct torque settings??
Thanks very helpful video, made installing my front rotors and brakes I purchased from 1a auto parts easy, The tip on using M* bolts to loosen rotors was very helpful.
+rushadd Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
+David Fairlie Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/2011-14-honda-odyssey-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02607?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XsE50r5Zys
Hi, Respectfully you should clean and lube your slide pins and inspect the rubber boots and brake line for weathering, use torque wrench to tighten at factory spec all those nuts and bolts, finally bleed the brake fluid line of air and old contaminated fluid while topping the master cylinder reservoir. All details are crucial since your work is what keeps you safe here. But the video was nice none the less.
Thanks for the great video. Seems very straight forward and you commentary is very much appreciated. I don't see a brake video from you on the 2010 Honda Odyssey. Is it the same or are there other things I need to be aware of?
Great video overall but a couple items that can (and will) cause issues. There is no mentioned of removing, cleaning and lubricating the caliper slide pins. Great way to have a seized caliper and fast / uneven brake wear. I don't always use a torque wrench on the caliper bracket (very tight) and caliper slide bolts (tight). Not everyone has a torque wrench so gauge how tight they were to break loose. That gives you an idea on how much to tighten them up. As engineers say "No such thing as 'too tight'..."
Nice job explaining every steps in great details. Just FYI, thre screws holding the brake rotor are not Philips but JIS screws. Unlike Philips, JIS screws are not designed to slip at certain torque. Use JIS screwdriver will make the job much easier.
Also, there is no need to replace this screw when you put everything back together, it is there for initial assembly and the wheel holds the rotor in place once assembled.
Thanks! I replaced the brake pads with the help of this video. One question: There is a little piece of metal like a small handle protruding out from the brake pad on the inside of the rotor. Does it matter if the piece of metal is at the top or bottom when installing the new ones? The new pads fit in nicely with the little handle on the bottom. They were at the top when removing the old pads.
That is a brake pad squealer. It starts scraping the rotor when the pad has worn down enough.....just a warning little thing. Not even necesary for brake function.
I had to use my Milwaukee impact gun to get both the caliper bolts and bracket bolts loose, i also had to drill out the pesky brake screw on one side. Spent more time with the one screw than the entire brake job.
Honda usually matches the caliper hose bolt with the same thread that you need to pull the rotor off so you just take the left and right hose bolts off. But honestly you shouldn't really need to do that unless it's really rusted on. If you're replacing the disc you just whack it with a hammer. Also DRILL the Phillips screw out. It takes about 4 seconds using a 1/4" bit.
I don't recommend lubing the pad ears, that will just cause them to collect brake dust. IF the SS channels are clean (just use the new hardware that comes with the pads) they should travel freely no prob. If anything, a light lube in the bracket slots where the SS hardware goes will help eliminate noise. As noted in other comments, you forgot a lot of steps like bleeding, torqueing, and so on.
Gr8, I assume Honda Ridgeline would be the same? I also have a odyssey and Just did breaks on my Nissan Maxima and it’s slightly different caliper design that achieves the same thing.
Thanks, great video, but I see nothing about removing excess brake fluid from reservoir. Am I the only one? Was looking for it because of previous rotor replacements on other cars. My brake fluid was already at the max line so maybe that was not the case with others? Thanks!
I just replaced rotos and pad after see your video, thank you so much. After replace rotos and pads for front side, my streeting shaking problem was gone when braking. BTW after replace them a week ago, and after around 15 minutes driving, I feel the front alloy wheels are(left and right) too hot always, I can touch my hand it on the alloy wheel surface, but feel too hot (measuring temp is around 170~180 Fahrenheit) is this normal? or my purchased rotos and pads stuff are not good ? Before I compare with old rotos (original equipped OEM part) back in, I would like to know if this is serious problem or normal situation.
Perfect video and helped me replace the rotors and pads on my 2011. No more shaking steering wheel while driving at high speeds on the interstate. Too bad Honda made this van too heavy resulting in lots of brake work and tires....Sigh
rotors do not need to be replaced every time the brake pads are changed. normally, i don't do anything to my rotors when i change brake pads. the odyssey has an issue of very bad shaking when braking attributed to warped rotors.
+7Westwood Thank you for checking us out. We apologize that this step was not shown, but it is highly recommended to grease the slide pins prior to tightening everything up. 1aauto.com
@@normpark3625 You take one out, clean it, lube it and put it back, then do the next one. Same as the clips. I noticed the metal pad clips were different on the back so I did them separately. I think the front clips were the same, can't remember.
Would it have been a good practice to pull the caliper pins wipe clean use a thin layer of silicone grease just to ensure the brakes are moving freely during the next 40k to 50k miles until the next pad replacement
Mostly a great video but something very important was left out. I can see other people noticed it in the comments but you haven't taken the time to edit the video so I will point it out again. You didn't check the guide pins to see if they were moving in and out properly and you didn't lube them to prevent any future issues. I know people will say you can tell by the pad wear if there's an issue but I'm about preventing problems when it's easy not fixing them after it's hard. Overall a very good video but if I as an amateur mechanic can see this essential part of brake care was missing, then it needs to be added by the professionals.
+regi mathew Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
Caution: Be very careful when using bolts to extract a rotor as shown in this video. You can easily crack the rotor hub if it's binding somewhere or you forgot to remove a fastener.
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None of the brake components were torqued in this video.
Torque Specs (2011-2013):
Caliper Pin Flange Bolt = 37 lb-ft
Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt = 101 lb-ft
Brake Disk Flathead Screw = 6.9 lb-ft
Brake Disk Removal Bolts (x2) = 8 x 1.25mm
Brake Bedding After New Pads is very important to prevent future judder ("warping")
I like your idea of telling the size of tools as it becomes easier selecting the tools. Thanks
+MOIN KAMAL Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
You are a natural teacher, very in depth, thank you.
Fantastic DIY tutorial video. Mechanic was very detailed, clear and very calm voice.
+TigerKitty 2 Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Interesting video for a beginning DYI person. Omitted from the video are a few very important steps such as cleaning and lube the guide pins with a possibility to change the guideline boots if they are included, cleaning and check the brake piston boots for cracks, and most of all, wtf happened to torque all the brake bolts to the correct torque settings??
This video is good for 15-16 models too. Thanks so much for sharing the info.
Pretty much to the point. I always lube the capiler pins and torque the fasteners. Brake lube the shim area as well.
Thanks very helpful video, made installing my front rotors and brakes I purchased from 1a auto parts easy, The tip on using M* bolts to loosen rotors was very helpful.
+rushadd Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
Great video. Followed this to the letter. Did first side in about 1 1/2 hours constantly referring back to this but the 2nd side in 30 mins. Thanks
+David Fairlie Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/2011-14-honda-odyssey-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02607?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XsE50r5Zys
Hi,
Respectfully you should clean and lube your slide pins and inspect the rubber boots and brake line for weathering, use torque wrench to tighten at factory spec all those nuts and bolts, finally bleed the brake fluid line of air and old contaminated fluid while topping the master cylinder reservoir. All details are crucial since your work is what keeps you safe here.
But the video was nice none the less.
Awesome video, Thank you so much for this. Saved me lots of headaches
Thank you! It sure helped get the job done.
Thanks for the great video. Seems very straight forward and you commentary is very much appreciated. I don't see a brake video from you on the 2010 Honda Odyssey. Is it the same or are there other things I need to be aware of?
Great video overall but a couple items that can (and will) cause issues. There is no mentioned of removing, cleaning and lubricating the caliper slide pins. Great way to have a seized caliper and fast / uneven brake wear. I don't always use a torque wrench on the caliper bracket (very tight) and caliper slide bolts (tight). Not everyone has a torque wrench so gauge how tight they were to break loose. That gives you an idea on how much to tighten them up. As engineers say "No such thing as 'too tight'..."
I'm an engineer...we don't say that.
@@matthewfraner4983 Im an engineer. We do say that.
@@citro48 then you don’t know what you’re doing
Nice job explaining every steps in great details.
Just FYI, thre screws holding the brake rotor are not Philips but JIS screws. Unlike Philips, JIS screws are not designed to slip at certain torque. Use JIS screwdriver will make the job much easier.
+Lei Chen Thank you for the feedback! 1aauto.com
Also, there is no need to replace this screw when you put everything back together, it is there for initial assembly and the wheel holds the rotor in place once assembled.
I was always tought to loosen the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern also. This is for the say reason you tighten that way; so you don't warp the wheel.
You do not need to loosed in cross pattern.
Thanks for the video - it was very helpful. I tried to order from you, but it was out of stock for weeks, so I had to order from somewhere else:. :-[
I just had mine done ... wasn't that expensive ... but I could do it on my own now. Wished I researched and found this.
+Sam Snow We will be here next time! 1aauto.com
Thanks! I replaced the brake pads with the help of this video.
One question: There is a little piece of metal like a small handle protruding out from the brake pad on the inside of the rotor. Does it matter if the piece of metal is at the top or bottom when installing the new ones?
The new pads fit in nicely with the little handle on the bottom. They were at the top when removing the old pads.
That is a brake pad squealer. It starts scraping the rotor when the pad has worn down enough.....just a warning little thing. Not even necesary for brake function.
and it doesn't matter if it is on the top or bottom. There is a place for it on either end.
I had to use my Milwaukee impact gun to get both the caliper bolts and bracket bolts loose, i also had to drill out the pesky brake screw on one side. Spent more time with the one screw than the entire brake job.
Honda usually matches the caliper hose bolt with the same thread that you need to pull the rotor off so you just take the left and right hose bolts off. But honestly you shouldn't really need to do that unless it's really rusted on. If you're replacing the disc you just whack it with a hammer. Also DRILL the Phillips screw out. It takes about 4 seconds using a 1/4" bit.
I don't recommend lubing the pad ears, that will just cause them to collect brake dust. IF the SS channels are clean (just use the new hardware that comes with the pads) they should travel freely no prob. If anything, a light lube in the bracket slots where the SS hardware goes will help eliminate noise.
As noted in other comments, you forgot a lot of steps like bleeding, torqueing, and so on.
Gr8, I assume Honda Ridgeline would be the same? I also have a odyssey and
Just did breaks on my Nissan Maxima and it’s slightly different caliper design that achieves the same thing.
Thanks, great video, but I see nothing about removing excess brake fluid from reservoir. Am I the only one? Was looking for it because of previous rotor replacements on other cars. My brake fluid was already at the max line so maybe that was not the case with others? Thanks!
I just replaced rotos and pad after see your video, thank you so much. After replace rotos and pads for front side, my streeting shaking problem was gone when braking. BTW after replace them a week ago, and after around 15 minutes driving, I feel the front alloy wheels are(left and right) too hot always, I can touch my hand it on the alloy wheel surface, but feel too hot (measuring temp is around 170~180 Fahrenheit) is this normal? or my purchased rotos and pads stuff are not good ?
Before I compare with old rotos (original equipped OEM part) back in, I would like to know if this is serious problem or normal situation.
Perfect video and helped me replace the rotors and pads on my 2011. No more shaking steering wheel while driving at high speeds on the interstate. Too bad Honda made this van too heavy resulting in lots of brake work and tires....Sigh
Excellent, thank you.
good quality pads come with new hardware looks like the pads used in the video didn't
Great video. Do you need to replace the rotors every time? Or can I just do the brake pads?
rotors do not need to be replaced every time the brake pads are changed. normally, i don't do anything to my rotors when i change brake pads. the odyssey has an issue of very bad shaking when braking attributed to warped rotors.
@@michaelhorbovetz1820 Tell me about it. Shakes like crazy. Bout to fix that.
@@darthnatas953 - Same here, went down a Mountain and thought I was going to lose control from the shaking.
@@onjofilms Yep, that is exactly why I changed mine.
I did not see you grease the caliper slide pins....
+7Westwood Thank you for checking us out. We apologize that this step was not shown, but it is highly recommended to grease the slide pins prior to tightening everything up. 1aauto.com
Also the caliper slide pins are distinct, top and bottom are not the same. How do you know which slide pin goes where?
@@normpark3625 You take one out, clean it, lube it and put it back, then do the next one. Same as the clips. I noticed the metal pad clips were different on the back so I did them separately. I think the front clips were the same, can't remember.
Would it have been a good practice to pull the caliper pins wipe clean use a thin layer of silicone grease just to ensure the brakes are moving freely during the next 40k to 50k miles until the next pad replacement
agree... what silicon paste or lubricant would be good to do this?
Do u always have to change rotors at same time?
no
Is loctite/thread locker needed when tightening the bolts back?
I’ve always read if you see loctite on it when you remove it, use the same when you replace
Blue Loctite on the caliper bracket bolts and torque them to spec.
I actually put a light coating of grease on the bolts, makes it much easier to remove the next time. Tourque to spec as noted.
Grease the Slider Pins?? Replace pin boots if torn? Yes.
Mostly a great video but something very important was left out. I can see other people noticed it in the comments but you haven't taken the time to edit the video so I will point it out again.
You didn't check the guide pins to see if they were moving in and out properly and you didn't lube them to prevent any future issues. I know people will say you can tell by the pad wear if there's an issue but I'm about preventing problems when it's easy not fixing them after it's hard. Overall a very good video but if I as an amateur mechanic can see this essential part of brake care was missing, then it needs to be added by the professionals.
+Gary Bowen Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
since i saw this can i do it myself or need a mechanic looks like its a simple process coz i jus have to replace the rotor and change brake pads
+regi mathew Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
What are the torque requirements for caliper bracket bolts and the caliper bolts? Thank you.
bracket bolts 101 ftlb
slide pins 37 ftlb
I was going to ask the same question, thank you for this information!
Thanks for the video! . How much was the cost for the parts?
+supercocaso All the parts and prices are available through our site. Thank you for your interest in 1A Auto!
I have followed this video and changed the break pads and rotors. After that, the brakes got loosen and it barely stops the car. What to do?
You probably need to bleed the brakes.
Torque specs please
Great video, just wish it had the torque specs.
He said 94lbs on the lugs.
Is this the same process for a 2017?
+proud2bdorky The installation process should be the same.
Torque specs!?
First you said they were M8 13mm bolts and then at 6:21 you say they are 1.5" which is 38mm. I'm diffused.
He is talking about the length. M8 is the diameter and he also calls out the pitch. 13mm if the socket size.
Caution: Be very careful when using bolts to extract a rotor as shown in this video. You can easily crack the rotor hub if it's binding somewhere or you forgot to remove a fastener.
+ollopa1 Thank you for the feedback. 1aauto.com
is bleeding needed in this process?
Francis Dongalo No because you didnt remove any hose.
Yes, in order to be a good mechanic, you have to scrap your knuckles hard and make them bleed. Otherwise you are doing it wrong.