BMW E30 325i Diagnosis M20 NO START - Bluepty: The Boosted Beater Video 3
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- The thrid video of Bluepty.... The story of a boosted beater. Follow along with us as we dig into this 1989 BMW E30 325.
In this video we build a flow chart of how Motronic works and what causes a no start on an M20. We also show you how to do some basic Diag if your car does not start. Follow along with Mr. Jake
Check out the upcoming Videos in the Series!!
Base Line Pulls ( • BMW E30 325i Base Line... )
Decoding Motronic ( • BMW E30 325i Decoding ... )
Diagnosis of a no start (This Video)
Installing Standalone EFI (4/19/23)
Installing Headstuds/Turbo Primer (4/26/23)
Turbo Kit Install (5/3/23)
.....More to Come!
Check us out at www.classicdaily.net
Would the CPS prevent the fuel regulator from switching on the fuel pump but still allow the car to produce spark? 1988 325i. Runs on ether…. Won’t fire the fuel pump or injectors… even when I jump the fuel pump relay…
No spark pulse if the CPS is bad. So if you have spark then the CPS is fine. So jumping the fuel pump relay turns the pump on or no? Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you checked for injector pulse with a noid light? Have you tried checking click of the injector just feeding them 12v? Make sure they are not stuck.
Great video! Lots of information here. Do you have any suggestions for a no crank situation? I have 90 325i automatic. It stranded me at a parking lot. Changed the starter, ignition switch, ignition relay, neutral safety switch and the DME relay. Still no crank. Stuck at this point. Thanks!
No crank is fairly easy.... Is the starter getting power at both the large lug and the small solenoid lug? If not start working backwards probing for power.
I’m getting power to the fuel pump relay and fuse 11, but not to the fuel pump. At this point do you recommend chasing down the wire to the pump?
Yes I would suggest ohm checking the wiring from the fuse back to the pump. Also make sure you have a good ground at the pump. How are you checking for power at the pump?
Hi Jake. I have power down to coil. Crank, no spark. The power doesn't pulse.
CPS works. Wires to ECU from CPS are OK. Cps is giving me 2v A/C but no engine speed seen by the DME.
Should I check the earth from the coil to the DME?
Is the coil any good ? Cap rotor ? What if you put a plug wire from coil to single plug to test.
Did you ever figure it out? I’m having similar issues
I got to the end of this video and it still just cranks without starting :'(
What have you tested ?
I really need help. Early model 1987 cabriolet died while driving, and it cranks but wont start. I've replaced the CPS, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distrubutor rotor + cap, ignition coil. I have fuel, but no spark. I've even tried plugging the ignition wire off the coil into a spark plug directly, and while cranking observed no spark. Dead ECU?
Yes I would bet bad ecu. Do you have 12v at the coil?
@@jakemodscars Checking that later today. Its worth noting that one of my spark plug wires when i replaced them, was OEM, and had the metal socket completely in pieces. I read one forum discussing how pulling a running spark plug can send that voltage back to the ECU, or a bad jump (which i also did at the start of winter, although it drove for 45 minutes) which makes me think that could've happened, but not sure. Thoughts?
@@jakemodscars I do have 12v at the coil, at pin 17, and 28 of the ECU plug.
@@joshantoniuk2940 Eh...i've never heard that but maybe. But it sounds like you most likely have a bad ecu.
my m20 will start and die immediatly when cold, but fine when warm any ideas? new coolant sensor didnt fix. i have to hold the throttle on cold starts
Clean the idle control valve
i have, i replaced it with 2 working tried t style and l style , smoke tested, 3 afms im getting spark cause it will run if i hold the throttle for a min then it will idle, its only a cold start issue, i connected a scanner to the car and the temp sensors replaced and are showing correct. replaced fuel lines and pump
@@jakemodscars
My fuel pump runs but I have no spark coil has .6 ohms on pos & neg secondary has 5.92k Ohms but I’ve got no spark when coil is in car
Do you have 12v to the coil? Fuel pump runs when cranking?
I have same problem. My pump won't run when cranking. I have 12v at the coil but it doesn't pulse. The cps works fine and so do the the wires to the dme but the engine doesn't see engine speed in live data! .
@@DJSpannamanUK Then the CPS isn't working.... Or its a bad DME.
Hi thanks for the video. I’m not getting my car to crank at all.
The previous owner ran a wire from the fuel pump fuse to somewhere else I guess to bypass the 7.5a fuse. The car was starting a few months ago. But the fuel pump stopped working. I swapped in a new and better fuel pump which I think burned out. When I touch the wires harness for the fuel pump(under back seat) it was extremely hot.
The next problem is that the car is not cranking. My friend said that the starter is not working. But he put power directly to the starter and it came on but did not engage to crank the engine.
Right now I have a new alternator to install, I’ve installed a new main relay and new fuel pump relay (I don't think that was the problem at all).
The dme is on because the check engine light is on and ICV is humming.
figured out that part of my cranking issue was the park neutral switch ... now I'm trying to sort out that fuel pump wire issue.
@@kmatikzofficial What fuel pump are you running? If the wires are hot the fuel pump is either pulling to much current or the wires are pinched/broken somewhere.
Having an issue with an 1989 325i starter and igniton. Someone added a push button start to the car completely separate to the car but runs off the battery with a 25amp fuse in the wire from the battery, So i removed the push botton start wire from the starter and connected up the blk/ylw signal wire to the starter but of course it does not crank at all. I believe its the ignition switch or a relay. and thats why the wired up push button start to bypass it.
Hi, I've watched your whole video and I have a question. My car is a e34 m20b20 from 1988, that was running properly and all in a sudden, started to stop by itself, two or three times at idle, then stopped a last time and do not want to start again.
I have: good fuel pump (I deduct good crank position sensor).
No fuel in cylinder
Spark plugs are not working as well.
Could it be a bad ecu? How could I test it before trying to find a replacement?
Thanks, and again thank you for the clear and useful video.
So when cranking does the fuel pump run? Can you feel the idle control valve buzzing with key on? Check for injector pulse with a noid light when cranking? Do you have 12v at the injector with key on ?
@@jakeb6265 when cranking, fuel is coming (i ve unplugged the hose and get a fountain of fuel instantaneously), idle control valve is pulsing, I didn t checked the injector tension but I guess 0, as I do not find fuel on the spark plug, I deducted they are not spraying...
@@Tuomas2507 Check the C191 connector under the intake manifold. I'd bet its either badly corroded or some broken wires.
@@jakeb6265 not corroded, I ve unmounted/mounted few times without issues. Maybe last time I didn t mounted back correctly, I'll check that as well. I also ordered the relay, just to be sure of that even if I do not believe it's the problem...
@@Tuomas2507 If the ICV is buzzing then the main relay is fine. Check for 12v at the injector connectors. There is only ONE wire that feeds them all so if its broke you will have a no run condition.
Hello, thank you for your content! I will be very grateful if you can help me. Im trying bring back to live my E34 M20B25 1988 more than a year (i dont have too much time). One day I backed out of the garden and when I ran over a little hump, the car died, I thought fuel pump, but jumping relay showed its ok. Then CPS, via ohm test it was ok but I bought new OEM one, didnt help. Then i recognized there are no sparks and ICV dont hum/buzz. Some troubleshooting diagrams went me to faulty DME, I was checking cables grounds, multiple times.. so I bought an used one, but its probably bad too. Then magic happened. With my oem DME ICV starter buzzing, but weirdly like when cable is broken and you are movin with him. Then it stabilised and buzz continuously and engine starts. BUT !!! I hear buzzing from dme too, then its stops and engine dies. I did some gently taps to the dme and start buzzing and engine runs.. I thought its broken cable somewhere near the connector, I tested the powers and the green one, grounds.. everything OK. With the used one DME this doesnt happen. Im really sorry for my english, but do you have an opinion where I can found the bad thing? Does your DME buzz too? Can send video. Im away from now for test if the engine lights is blinking whet this happens. Thank you
Great video with a ton of accurate nuanced information.
Key highlights that are worth repeating:
1. Confirming check engine light in accessory mode is critical as it shows that the DME has power; with main relay being first place to check.
2. There are default maps on the DME that the car will use in the case of an unplugged sensor. Instead of shotguning parts, just simply unplug and test.
3. Unlike modern cars, the fuel pump only runs while cranking.
4. The primary relays are segregated for a reason in the engine bay; they are critical to the operation of the car, and if original, changing them makes a ton of sense.
A couple suggestions and more nuanced detail:
A. One area missed in the video is the importance of a good engine to body ground.
B. Pre 1988 M20's had a dual fuel pump system, and no detachable fuel injector harness. Main pump is in front of the drivers side rear wheel.
C. A suggestion for a future video would be to show how the car runs with each sensor unplugged.
I can't confirm off the top, but I believe the car will start and idle with the AFM unplugged as well. In the video it made it sound as though that was one sensor you absolutely needed plugged in for a no start.
Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for the suggestions and nice words.
Yes it will run without afm but extremely poorly and very very rich. I also unplug to test. So few things are actually even needed to make it run.
@Classic Daily it would be fun to unplug everything other than the CPS and see if it will still start. No icv, afm, tps, coolant sensor; even the evap valve and the #6 pulse sensor (all 6 injectors should pulse at the same time as a failsafe).
That would really show just how little is needed to get an e30 to start.
24:00-33:00 is pretty quiet... First half had great info!
Any ideas here? 36psi gauge measured at the rail. No fuel leaks. Checked the barn door is moving on the AFM.
ua-cam.com/users/shorts125vsHU3Ti8?feature=share
I think the crank position sensor typical resistance is around 500 ohms.
Please be more exact.
@@jakemodscars I think you think the crank position sensor ohms out around 500!
Thank you sooo much for putting this together!!!! This helped me diagnose my e23. Getting closer to getting it sorted!!