Very cool. I like to delete the plastic connectors when wiring electric fans. They always get crusty and accumulate moisture, etc. So I feel like I'm eliminating a potential failure point. Could be paranoia but that's how I was taught so I keep up with it lol
What a lot of guys don’t realize is that shroud is the key to a good radiator set up like this. A good tight shroud that draws air evenly across the rad with the flaps ready to open at greater speeds. And a 4 core usually is a bad thing for most engines. A good 3 core and a proper fan set up will cool some pretty big boy set ups in the proper dementions. It’s all mathmacticals boys
Great video! A couple of other points to consider for those watching this video: what compression ratio? What fuel octane? Higher compression ratios with today's fuel can cause higher running temps.
Retarding the timing so it doesn't rattle causes higher temps, same with where the vacuum advance is connected. Too lean can also make it run hot. I've been building, racing, and daily driving Pontiacs since 1986 when I bought my first one. Sure throw a $1500 radiator at it instead of fixing the problems causing the heat. I'll take a wild guess that the total timing is retarded because it hot starts so the initial is backed way down. Then they will have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum because thats how chevy does it... and everyone thinks they are the same thing or close enough. Then the owner probably has a 3.73 or 4.10 gear in it, because chevy thinking says more is better. That will cause it to run hot going down the highway, and the timing with a probable lean condition will exacerbate it. If the water pump divider isn't there and clearanced correctly its going to run hot. If the pulleys are for a 455 and they are turning it 3000rpm at cruise, its going to run hot. My 1965 GTO has a 72 vintage 455 block, 4.25" crank, forged rods and flat top pistons, the ported 1967 heads (670) makes for 11.5:1. This is NOT a pump gas engine, it will knock the upper rod bearings out on pump gas, no matter how much the timing is pulled back. It runs on E85 and has a hydraulic roller with a tight LSA to increase low and mid range cylinder pressure and therefore torque in that range. It also has a 3.08 rear gear in it and runs mid 11s through the mufflers. I run a 200F thermostat in it so it gets hot enough to boil condensation out of the oil. The radiator is a $200 universal aluminum one from Summit, everything else is stock, and it likes 42 degrees total advance starting at 3000rpm. Pontiac engines and vodka fuel go great together, because of where the Pontiac makes all its power. Most people build them like chevys, then wonder why it runs hot, runs slower, and doesn't live long. I get decades out of my engines driving them daily... and racing the snot out of them.
I had a 69 that was sweet, loved that car, but someone loved it more than me, it disappeared with a little help from a thief, never saw that car again 😢.
I had problems with that Painless controller years ago. I returned it under warranty, but they admitted to a supplier problem and would not provide me with another one. So I got my money back and used a Flex-A-Lite controller, and it had been flawless.
Wait wait wait. So you're just essentially rebuilding the cooling system and not actually fixing the overheating problem? Or say why it's overheating? 🤨
Were you able to run it through the desert at high speeds with the AC on. Or better yet sit in traffic on a extremely hot day downtown concrete jungle. Boom Diggity
Looks nice but it's actually bullshit. I own a shop in Modesto California when Summer's reach 115° Ron Davis's radiator with dual fans on a Pontiac 400 with a flowkooler water pump couldn't keep it below 220°. Nothing will. Bore that Pontiac block 30 over and it goes up to 240° Pontiacs or notorious for overheating just as they did when they were brand new. 1965 GTO with a 389 will overheat with the AC on going up over the Sierra Nevada's to Reno before it gets halfway up the hill. Now if you want to drive this car in cold weather you will have no problem. Sorry but it's the truth.
I had a 1976 Pontiac 400 in a 1980 Firebird. Rebuilt the motor. Had an air pocket in the block. I could not get that thing out. I literally had to lift the front of the car up to a 45° angle to finally get the air out.
I went to their website. Its 1 page and talks abour covid. I was about to buy a radiator from them until i saw this. Im guessing they dont believe in the same things i do like men cant be women. So ill pass. Cool radiator though.
What is holding down/in the radiator now that the shroud is gone? (I'm looking to do this for my 83 Impala and I can't find a list of parts to hold it in/down) Thanks!
Very nice work. What an absolutely gorgeous radiator. A functional piece of art
‘68 birds are the sweetest and most eye catching in a nice red color.., keeping a cool bird is the word.., firebird, thunderbird, roadrunner..,
When I saw the Ron Davis Box, before you mentioned it. I knew this was going to work out well. 👍🏼
Very cool. I like to delete the plastic connectors when wiring electric fans. They always get crusty and accumulate moisture, etc. So I feel like I'm eliminating a potential failure point.
Could be paranoia but that's how I was taught so I keep up with it lol
Agreed. A good instal does not include the cheapo connectors. I like a good douch connector or a deans depending on the application.
What a lot of guys don’t realize is that shroud is the key to a good radiator set up like this. A good tight shroud that draws air evenly across the rad with the flaps ready to open at greater speeds. And a 4 core usually is a bad thing for most engines. A good 3 core and a proper fan set up will cool some pretty big boy set ups in the proper dementions. It’s all mathmacticals boys
Whats the part number for radiator and painless wiring kit. Got a 68 I'm building now.
Radiator was ordered from rondavisradiators.com. Painless wiring kit was from Summit racing.
Great video! A couple of other points to consider for those watching this video: what compression ratio? What fuel octane? Higher compression ratios with today's fuel can cause higher running temps.
Retarding the timing so it doesn't rattle causes higher temps, same with where the vacuum advance is connected. Too lean can also make it run hot. I've been building, racing, and daily driving Pontiacs since 1986 when I bought my first one.
Sure throw a $1500 radiator at it instead of fixing the problems causing the heat. I'll take a wild guess that the total timing is retarded because it hot starts so the initial is backed way down. Then they will have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum because thats how chevy does it... and everyone thinks they are the same thing or close enough.
Then the owner probably has a 3.73 or 4.10 gear in it, because chevy thinking says more is better. That will cause it to run hot going down the highway, and the timing with a probable lean condition will exacerbate it.
If the water pump divider isn't there and clearanced correctly its going to run hot. If the pulleys are for a 455 and they are turning it 3000rpm at cruise, its going to run hot.
My 1965 GTO has a 72 vintage 455 block, 4.25" crank, forged rods and flat top pistons, the ported 1967 heads (670) makes for 11.5:1. This is NOT a pump gas engine, it will knock the upper rod bearings out on pump gas, no matter how much the timing is pulled back. It runs on E85 and has a hydraulic roller with a tight LSA to increase low and mid range cylinder pressure and therefore torque in that range. It also has a 3.08 rear gear in it and runs mid 11s through the mufflers.
I run a 200F thermostat in it so it gets hot enough to boil condensation out of the oil. The radiator is a $200 universal aluminum one from Summit, everything else is stock, and it likes 42 degrees total advance starting at 3000rpm.
Pontiac engines and vodka fuel go great together, because of where the Pontiac makes all its power. Most people build them like chevys, then wonder why it runs hot, runs slower, and doesn't live long. I get decades out of my engines driving them daily... and racing the snot out of them.
Like your videos, very well done. Thank you
I had a 69 that was sweet, loved that car, but someone loved it more than me, it disappeared with a little help from a thief, never saw that car again 😢.
That sucks!!! I lost a 70 Challenger that way...😡
Nice job brother!
Very cool! Now I need someone to help me with the ignition on my 74 Dodge Charger.
Easy stuff!!!
If you're in Vancouver, USA bring it by!!!🤣
Seriously though, whats wrong??
Dude I’ve never seen an rpm gauge on the hood that’s so cool
Yeah it was a factory option on the firebirds back then, pretty cool for sure.
The GTO’s in the 60’s also had them…Jim
Awesome! 👍
Wow coolest radiator ever
I'd still do a power flush to make sure that there is no sand in that block considering the issues they had with that in that time
I had problems with that Painless controller years ago. I returned it under warranty, but they admitted to a supplier problem and would not provide me with another one. So I got my money back and used a Flex-A-Lite controller, and it had been flawless.
Nice job
Beautiful Firebird,only downfall to me is that it's a ragtop.
Wait wait wait. So you're just essentially rebuilding the cooling system and not actually fixing the overheating problem? Or say why it's overheating? 🤨
Were you able to run it through the desert at high speeds with the AC on. Or better yet sit in traffic on a extremely hot day downtown concrete jungle. Boom Diggity
I use Cold Case in my 71 Plymouth
Looks nice but it's actually bullshit. I own a shop in Modesto California when Summer's reach 115° Ron Davis's radiator with dual fans on a Pontiac 400 with a flowkooler water pump couldn't keep it below 220°. Nothing will. Bore that Pontiac block 30 over and it goes up to 240° Pontiacs or notorious for overheating just as they did when they were brand new. 1965 GTO with a 389 will overheat with the AC on going up over the Sierra Nevada's to Reno before it gets halfway up the hill. Now if you want to drive this car in cold weather you will have no problem. Sorry but it's the truth.
so, they overheated direct from the factory? I dont think so. Much more going on here.
I had a 1976 Pontiac 400 in a 1980 Firebird. Rebuilt the motor. Had an air pocket in the block. I could not get that thing out. I literally had to lift the front of the car up to a 45° angle to finally get the air out.
I'm not a fan of having the tachometer outside of the cabin on the hood
Not a speedometer, but a tachometer…Jim
@@jimpie231 Fixed it
I will give a arm an leg for that bird
Better not be your right arm and left leg .. cause that baby has a standard transmission.
Hahaha, I love it.
This is A Beautiful Hotttt Bird!!
It’s called a Firebird for a reason
I went to their website. Its 1 page and talks abour covid. I was about to buy a radiator from them until i saw this. Im guessing they dont believe in the same things i do like men cant be women. So ill pass. Cool radiator though.
You used tape instead of shrink tube come on man…
You put water instead of radiator fluid you really going to burn that motor down
Lol we were diluting the 100% concentrate with water
@@ZHPGarageoh ok had me sacerd 4 a moment brother thankns again tk
The best part was getting rid of that schitty flex fan
Got on my 99 suburban.
Run cool
What is holding down/in the radiator now that the shroud is gone? (I'm looking to do this for my 83 Impala and I can't find a list of parts to hold it in/down) Thanks!