Timing Belt, Timing Belt Tensioner, Water Pump, Thermostat, 2004 Nissan Xterra 3.3L V6 Part 4
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2024
- In this video you will see how to remove the timing belt tensioner, camshafts, remove timing belt, replace camshaft oil seals, crankshaft oil seal, water pump, and replace water pump with gasket.
Update: Just to let you know, I've been working on cars for over 20 years but I NEVER would do timing belts out of fear. I decided this year to challenge myself and watching your videos has helped me. As of yesterday, I successfully completely my very first timing belt job. 2002 Nissan Xterra 3.3 V6. Thank you for posting these vids.
Ty, so happy to hear that the videos helped! Congrats on getting your timing belt done and done!
I'm no mechanic.
Thanks for the video
I was able to do my water pump in 8 hours, thanks to you.
Happy to hear the video helped you out!
Hey man I’ll be doing this job this weekend mine is leaking any tips , advice for first time?
@@grantvarvil2929 dude .. huge kudos for shooting this job in real light... 2001 frontier. ... same job on deck. Best thing you did was show what comes next... details are for the fearful... but all in all... you should have kept doing this kind of work. The world needs doers..
Recommendation is to replace all belts (4), the water pump, the tensioner, the three oil seals, and lastly the two pulleys. Might as well do the spark plugs too and the three radiator hoses. I've done this twice now and this is a pretty good video.
I wanted to give you a huge THANK YOU! I replaced all belts, timing belt, water pump, and fan clutch. Your series helped me out when I came across something I wasn't sure about and answered every question necessary for doing the job. Once again thanks!
Glad it helped you out!
Grant Varvil hello body my exterra is cheyking big time and i díd tunaup and ir does the same You thing is time to reset time belt
Thanks for watching the videos. If the tune-up did not change the shaking of the engine, it could be out of time. When the belt wears over the years, it is possible for one of the cam sprockets to jump a tooth on the belt, causing it to be out of time. If all of the fluids are at proper levels, the spark plugs have been changed, air filter is clean, and distributor is working properly, and it is still shaking like crazy, I would change the timing belt.
Totally agree, it was awesome to see this done so that I could check my work. I hadn't thought to replace the oils seals at the same time so thanks for the tip.
I looked at this series a few times to prep for my project. It made the replacement much easier. Thanks!
Lynn Clark Glad it helped!
You really need a pulley holder to keep the cam from moving while breaking the bolts free. Good series of videos so far it really helps get an idea of the scope of the project.
Only thing I caught was when u said the water pump bolts were 144 ft lbs of torque. Lol I honestly don't know the actual number but to anyone wondering that is not it. Good luck getting them that far chance is every one of them will snap
Yup. You are right. Not 144ft lbs. 144 inch pounds.
@@grantvarvil2929 I wondered, but thank you for verifying that! I'm actually doing a timing belt on a 2000 xterra as we speak so that's good info to have! One last tip for anyone else is just be very careful on the amount of rtv silicone u use! Both on the bolts and the gasket! A light light coating will do. Use ur fiber to spread it on evenly and get the excess off. Also on the bolt threads just a touch will do! To much and can chance a false sense of tight when torquing down. Or even worse crack the bore. I've seen it a couple times sadly
Great tip! Thanks for taking the time to share some knowledge 👍
Didn't mean to be ungrateful. This is a great series. Helped me very much. Thanks again.
Good job Grant i will tackle this big job soon! Thank you for the awesome video and detailed instructions i appreciate you..!
Awesome man thank you for Taking the time to make this 👍
Great info, the only thing I'm concerned about is the tensioner for the timing belt, you didn't really show all of the ins and outs of the R+R of that part. Can you get more specific? I would greatly appreciate it.
These 4 videos have been very informative! I've wrenched on my own vehicles for years, but the prospect of changing the timing belt on my 2004 Nissan Frontier (especially everything else that goes along with it) is a little intimidating. Your videos helped a lot!! A few questions:
1. How can I get a pic of the tool you used to seat the cam/crack seals?
2. How long did this job take you? I understand it took longer due to you stopping and explaining stuff.
3. Which way does the engine rotate (for TDC) - left or right (as you're looking at the engine)?
4. Did you threadlock everything, or just particular bolts? Blue or Red?
5. What type of RTV did you use? Did you use silicone in ADDITION to gaskets, or silicone alone?
6. When you pulled the cam/crankshaft seals, did you lose oil? If so, how much?
7. I understand you didn't drain antifreeze, but how much antifreeze did you have to replace when you refilled the system?
Thanks again for the videos - they've been extremely helpful in planning my own maintenance!
1. I made a video for a guy on how to make it. I'll send you a link to it to your youtube inbox. 2. The job took me about 2 days in all. I did a lot of running back and forth between home and part stores when I ran into issues.3. When you are looking at the engine, the engine rotates clockwise to the right.4. I used threadlocker on some specific bolts but not everything. Didn't do threadlocker on the timing belt cover if I remember right. Blue threadlocker.5. I used a very light amount of blue permatex RTV (almost positive it was the blue... safe for use around water/coolant) on top of the gasket because I saw some small gouges after scraping the old gasket off. The RTV will help to fill those spots in where the gasket won't/6. I didn't lose any oil.7. Didn't drain the block, but I remember buying two gallons of antifreeze and using about 1 to 1.5 gallons.If you don't get the link from me in the next ten hours, shoot me another comment to remind me. Heading to work and its going to be crazy today.Let me know if you have any more questions.Thanks for the comment!
I couldn't send the link to you, so here ya go:ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
Grant Varvil I believe that should have been INCH pounds. Divide by 12 gives foot pounds. So 144 = 12 foot pounds. 192 = 16 foot pounds. Wheel LUG bolts are only around 100 foot pounds. Excellent video otherwise. I'm almost 60 and will need to do this on an Xterra I just bought. NOT looking forward to it.
That was an excellent video series, thank you.
Just a heads up! Great job and great post. I snapped one of the water pump bolts so I went on google to make sure and found that it's 144 in lbs or 12-15 ft lbs.
This is an excellent video. Thank you for skipping showing me how fat your cat is, how the wind is blowing at your house, or talk about your other 3 vehicles and what you liked to do back in high school. Good educational video straight to the point and seems all inclusive. Do you think I'll need to change my oil seals if they look like they aren't leaking when I get in there? I usually use a socket for seals like that, Is that similar to what you did?
Never have liked videos where I have to try to skip through all the nonsense people talk about to get to what I need to know! Glad the video has been educational. As far as the seals, no, you don't necessarily have to change them if they are not leaking or appear worn. BUT, the way I see it, if I am all the way in there and taken off a bunch of stuff to get to the timing belt, you might as well replace them so you don't have to do it again. I made a seating tool for the seals and made a video a while back for someone who wanted to see it. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
This is a very good video. How did you take off crankshaft timing pulley. I have the 1987 service manual it doesn't say how to take it off to get to the front oil seal.
Thanks alot Grant! Excellent video and helped me alot!
Mike robidoux Glad it helped!
Best step-by-step video on how to do this job for this car hands-down. Question, would it be easier to loosen the cam pulley bolts with the old belt still on so they won’t move and if they do move they move together? Also, can you send me a picture of, your cam seal installation tool? Thanks great video!
@jw3028 Glad the video is helpful. Made this one years ago and cool to see its still helping. Yes, your idea should work to hold the cams in place to get the bolts loose. Here is a link to a video I made for someone regarding the tool I made.
ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
Hope the project goes well.
Here's another video of the camshaft seal tool.
ua-cam.com/video/u49g16RtTRY/v-deo.html
You could also check your local parts store and see if they have a tool loaner program. Oreillys has one and they might have a seal install tool with various sizes that might work.
Got the job done this weekend! Took me 2 whole days!! Lol!! But it runs. I managed to put the cam seals on this time too. Taking the cam gears off was a little scary fearing that they would move and get everything out of time. But using an impact with the old timing belt still on and tensioned kept them perfectly still. Thanks so much for taking the time to make the video and sending me the links to the seal installing tool. And I appreciate your prompt replies!
@@jw3028 glad you were able to get the job done! Happy that the videos helped
Great walk through man thanks
Thanks for the video's is the timing 40 teeth across 43 teeth down to crankshaft?
Good set of videos, but you have GOT to figure out the difference between inch pounds and foot pounds 😂 the different is a factor of 12!
Glad you liked it. Keep forgetting to go back in and correct the inch pounds! You're right! Big torque difference between foot and inch
In your best guess, how far do you think you can safely turn one of those cam shaft sprockets without damaging a head or something? I wasn't able to keep them from spinning when I checking the seals and over turned the left one pretty good.
Thanks clovis. I've got everything put back together, but I guess I didn't fix what broke down my car to begin with. So still trouble shooting.
Thanks for doing this man! I just bought a nice 2004 Xterra and I plan to do this preventative maintenance. You helped give me the courage to try. Also, what are the part numbers for those hoses? Thanks so much!
How did it go?
Why didn't you show how to out the belt back on? Kind of an important step.
That 150 ft/lb torque figure seems high. Great vid. Gonna change the timing belt on my gf's Pathfinder. Looks to be about the same. 160K miles on it without timing belt change. Think it's time?
I thought the same thing, but that's the torque spec I found. Its definitely time. Make sure you replace every part you have to take off to get to the belt. This is the kind of job you only want to do once!
great video, but the part where you were using your torque wrench as a breaker bar made me hurt inside a little bit.
Totally understand the pain. The torque wrench was broken and had lost the spring so didnt work anymore. Repurposed it as a breaker bar
Grant Varvil that makes me feel much better
What if one (me) didn't make sure that the vehicle was at TDC before removing the belt? I got in there to replace the water pump and did NOT realize what I was in for! 2001 Nissan Frontier v6
Got it all put back together and cranked it. It runs, but is making a very loud scraping noise.. It almost sounds like the timing belt is scraping the thin metal cover plate--the bottom one. Is it possible that I've screwed up the tensioner? ALSO, since I hardly ever do any mechanical work and thusly didn't know a whole lot about the timing belt/sprockets, I did not ensure TDC when I removed the belt. Once the belt came off, the top right (when you're facing the engine) sprocket turned slightly counter clockwise. When we put the belt back on, I turned it back clockwise just a tad. Now I DID mark the belt and the sprockets, BUT the black sharpie (only thing I had at the time) marks hardly showed up, of course...
Anyway, I'm headed out to take it all apart again and see what I can do about lining up the sprockets and belt and try to figure out that damned scraping noise... But, HEY, the brand new water pump is on there!
I hate that manufacturers purposely design vehicles to where an owner can't fix his own shit anymore...
Tenshi B I'm not a certified mechanic, so take what I say with a grain of salt. One of the reasons for putting the engine at TDC is to assist with lining up the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket, and to keep the Timing of the engine intact. With the belt, there are a specified amount of teeth on the belt that are to be between the Left and Right sprocket, a certain amount of teeth between the right camshaft sprocket and the Crank, and a certain amount of teeth between the Crank and the Left Camshaft. If you had messed up the amount of teeth spacing between any of the sprockets, there would have been a noticeable issue with the engine running due to the timing of the engine being out of specification. You would have noticed the engine running rough, difficult to start, etc. From your post, it sounds like you were able to keep the timing of the engine intact.
The scraping sound- Could very well be the belt rubbing against the Timing Belt Cover. I know it sucks to take everything back off, but do it anyway. When you get things off, rotate the engine and take note of where the belt sits on the sprockets; it could simply be adjusting the placement of the belt on the sprockets. If the tensioner is an issue, you may hear a "Whine" when the engine is running. If so, redo the tensioning process.
Hope this helps!
Grant
Grant Varvil Hey Grant! The mystery is solved.. I took the belt off and did the long screwdriver into piston #1 TDC assurance. Then I made sure to match up all my marks on the cam gear teeth and backplate and lined them up with the old marks on the belt (which the last people to do this did NOT do) AND THEN counted the teeth!
Everything was lookin' good as far as gearing/timing and belt placement, so I put the bottom cover back on and also the big pulley and manually turned all that. And figured out what the damned scraping noise was.. It was the little bolt that's on the very bottom of the coverplate! This particular bold was not the same one that we took out (didn't keep them organized) and stuck up just barely far enough to touch the back of the pulley!
SO, all this for a new waterpump.. I put everything back together, including the radiator shroud and then got my keys and hopped behind the wheel. I said a quick prayer, kept my fingers crossed, and turned the key.. The baby came purring to life and actually sounds a little BETTER than ever! And so... on the way home, guess what? Overheating again! HEH.. can't win for losing! [=
+Tenshi B Did u also put in a new Thermostat
It will be almost a year ago in a month or so from when this all happened, Kidd. I did NOT put a new t-stat in there at that time, but I eventually did, and that didn't stop the overheating, finally, I bought a new radiator as well and that's what was causing it to keep overheating... It DID need a new waterpump, but also, the old radiator was clogged. I figured it'd be more economical to simply put in a new one since I'd done so much work to it already by then. The new radiator for this model was only something like $135.
How did you put the crankshaft pulley back on? I am having a hard time.
Good video
Good video. This is however the weakest engine I've ever worked on, lol.
This was an exceptional video. Thanks for the help. Do you have recommendations for replacing the valve guides for this exact engine?
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and that it helped out. Sorry, but never did the guides on this engine before I sold it.
Wish you would have shown how to tighten the timing belt. The directions that came with it were pretty vague.
Same thing I said. I'm trying to figure out how to set tension on tensioner and he the belt back on
@@bendooley5639 I did mine just yesterday when I did my timing belt. Once you get the new tensioner back on, make sure the hole that has the allen key faces in the down position. With an allen key, turn clockwise until the key until the tool is slanting and lined up with that first bolt on the casting to the left.
Great help thanks! Would love to see your homemade seal installing tool. My cam did turn about 30 degrees when initially breaking cam bolt.... any input regarding that?
you should be fine in regards to the non interface engine. I moved one camindependently from the other and did not have damage to pistons. turn cam shafts equal amount back. the best rule of thumb is to count the teeth of the belt between each sprocket line indicator to ensure proper timing.
Hi. I'm about to replace my timing belt for my pathy 2002. What all I should change with this service? How many belts are there? My spare pRts guy tolled that 3 belts. Is it true
3 belts. One for alternator, one for power steering, one for A/C. You will need to set proper tension separately to all 3 belts when done. Do your water pump. You can also replace Timing Belt Tensioner, cam shaft seals x2, crankshaft seal x1.
Thanks for the quick reply, I was planning on using O'Reilly's so that's good did everything hold up well? Again I appreciate it!
You're welcome! Everything held up fine, but sold the vehicle about 2 years after I did the job, so not sure now, but confident the parts are still working well. For the water pump gasket, use some of the "Permatex High Tack Spray a Gasket" spray. It helps to hold the gasket in place while lining everything up and getting bolts back in. Make sure to not over torque the gasket bolts or you will have leaks.
Great video series. Do you know if it is more or less the same to replace the water pump on a 06 Xterra 4.0l. I have to work on it this weekend. Where did you buy your water pump?
Thanks for the comment. I'm not 100% sure, but I would put my money on it being the same process. I picked up the water pump from Oreilley Auto Parts in Anchorage. The tacky spray adhesive makes getting the gasket on and having it stay in place during installation a breeze. Make sure to use some R TV sealant on the bolt threads to ensure that coolant doesn't make its way out through the bolt holes when under pressure. Feel free to give me a call or text if you get hung up. Ill shoot you my number to your inbox.
Grant
Why the hell would you make a video about changing the timing belt without showing you changing and tensioning the ding dang timing belt!?
Lost that part of the video when I originally recorded this.
excelllent vid. what bout this homemade seal install.
ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
what is best way to install timing belt if crankshaft marks don't line up?
Do you mean the white install marks on the belt aren't aligning with the marks for just crankshaft or is it crank and cams all not lining up?
Did you use genuine Nissan water pump, or auto zone, also what brand timing belt and thermostat please,thank you for the video!
Hey Ken, glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps when you do your job. In regards to parts, it has been quite a few years since I made the video and dont remember the exact manifacturers and brands of parts. I definitely did not use any Nissan genuine parts but got everything from local Oreilly Auto Parts here in Anchorage. Genuine parts were not in the budget!
One thing I would do in regards to thermostat is to remove first and take into part store to make sure you get the same temperature range for the thermostat to open up as the original in the xterra. Or google your exact year/make/model for what thermostat temp rating you have in the xterra
Will do thanks for the video, info,and tip!
Im replacing my timing belt and water pump soon, any special tools you recommend using?
+Kevin Avalo Get a Crankshaft Pulley puller from your local auto parts store. Oreilley's Auto usually has loaner tools that you can borrow. Tack sealant for the water pump gasket makes it easier to install. Make sure to align the timing belt properly with the dimples on the cam shaft pulleys and the back timing belt case. Make sure to have the large socket to pull the bottom crankshaft off.
+Grant V what about a harmonic balancer tool
Same thing as the crankshaft pulley puller. The bottom pulley is the harmonic balancer. The issue I had with the puller from O'Reilly auto parts was that it did not have the right length and threading for the bolts that marry the puller to the balancer pulley. If you have the same issue, take off one of the bolts that you have removed from the xterra already, and try to match the bolt to the female bolt hole on the harmonic balancer where you thread in the puller to the balancer. Once you find a bolt that fits, go to home depot or Lowe's and find a carriage bolt with that threading so you can make your puller tool work. Hope that all made sense. There should be an explanation in this video series that shows the bolts I used.
What happened at 13min 10 sec into the 4th Video?
The only trouble I'm having is getting the Dang Belt back on and you skipped that part?
Oil seal install tool diy....Please and thank you bro
ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/u49g16RtTRY/v-deo.html
Here are a couple videos I made years ago. Hope it helps
Please send info on your homemade seal install tool
Jeff Manion ua-cam.com/video/vIYXvitK8WQ/v-deo.html
You didn’t show how to install the timing belt
The fun life of Nik I had lost some of my footage when I put the video together years ago. Is there any questions I can answer to help you through the install?
Seriously the most important part of the video is putting the timing belt back on and you did not show that.
The one part I need to see he didn't even show it
Sorry didnt get what you needed on the video. Is there something I could try walking you through?
@@grantvarvil2929 I was needing to see how you took off the tension pulley off the timing belt is where I'm stuck at
@@kaseyallen4577 cool. So loosen the nut that retains the tensioner pulley. There should be a hex Allen wrench hole offset from the center that you would insert an Allen wrench to twist clockwise (if I remember right), hold the allen in place, and that should loosen the tension on the belt enough to pull it off.
@@grantvarvil2929 thank you