Dripline vs. Drip Tape: What's best for your Garden?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Adam explains the factors in choosing between Dripline and Drip tape for home gardens to help you make the best decision for your garden’s needs.
Shop our premade Dripline & Drip Tape Irrigation Kits: www.dripdepot.com/category/dr...
Shop our selection of Drip Tape - www.dripdepot.com/category/dr...
Shop our selection of Dripline - www.dripdepot.com/category/dr...
How to Design a Drip Irrigation System: • How to Design a Drip I...
How to Customize Dripline: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Drip Tape Buying Guide: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
All About Emitters/Drippers: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Drip Depot Modular Metal Raised Beds: www.dripdepot.com/product/dri...
TIMESTAMPS
0:00 - Intro
0:26 - Deciding Factors
1:31 - Situations that Favor Dripline
3:06 - Situations that Favor Drip Tape
4:31 - When to Avoid Dripline and Drip Tape
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Your Getting started with drip irrigation playlist is saving my life at the moment! What felt extremely complex is proving to be relatively simple thanks to your detailed explanation and details
Glad to help, Ibrahim!
Thank you so much for this info! I’ve been stuck trying to decide between drip line and drip tape for my vegetable garden. Now I feel confident about using drip line.
So glad it was helpful! I use mostly drip line in my home garden as well, I think you'll enjoy the results :)
Good information. Thanks.
Awesome, thanks.
Well done
Great info as always Adam. Here soon I'm going to be doing a garden update. Weeds are bad in my corn rows even when mulched. Next season I'm incorporated no till/no dig with the drip irrigation for a more self sufficient garden. Weed barrier cloth is the answer to almost all of the weeding is what I hear so I'm going to give it a shot. Do you do no till/ no dig in your garden with some sort of weed barrier? Have a good one!
Sam, it's good to hear from you!
Weeds will even grow through fabrics, they're a stubborn bunch. Fabric will slow them down and reduce though, so you're definitely on the right track. My garden is indeed no-till no-dig, or at least for the most part. I do pick weeds, but other than that I let the microbes do most of the work in maintaining the layered soil structure -- they're great at it and have been doing it for eons and eons. :)
Looking forward to the garden update Sam!
Great info! Can you use 1/4 and 1/2 inch dripline on the same run of mainline tubing?
You bet, you sure can Christine -- they both love to operate at about 25 PSI as well, so you don't really need to change anything to have both going on the same mainline :)
Christine, I just watched your March 2024 harvest video -- and wow! Amazing garden you have going there, the pot of lettuces looked so good (not to mention the cabbage!), great work out there.
a very interesting comparision. i 'd use drip tape only for sowing seeds because of its disadvantage of getting clogged in case of fertirrigation (stinging nettle & so on), also it waters too much multiplicating the water bill thus.
sorry, i meant porous tape, i never saw drip tape before.
Heya Wolfgang, good to hear from you again, I hope the day finds you well :)
You're right about the concern regarding fertigation -- most drip tape has small orifices, so anything that contains unsolved particulates could indeed cause clogs. Fertigating with drip tape does require fully soluble or fully liquid fertilizers.
I see what you mean about the porous tape, our experience with it is similar (watering too much, particularly along the earlier lengths). Drip tape (the non-porous kind) is very similar to drip line, it has inline emitters at evenly spaced intervals. Drip tape usually has much lower flow rate options, some was low as 0.13 GPH per emitter (which is the type with the very small orifices).
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even the amazonas jungle wasn't so original as thought due to the precolumbian red indians selecting trees seeds growing easily for creating it, same as in north amaerica they created english park like landscapes according to testimonies (so henry david thoreau was wrong about it in walden). these were the origins of gardening (as far as we can know now). source: yt genetist
I really believe that drip line works best in beds, 1/4” tubing with drippers are best on pots and containers .
I tend to agree -- the ease of running some drip line right down a bed is so nice, and it's just as effective as button drippers. You're already becoming a veteran at this Jennifer, coming to the same conclusion folks in the industry do :)
@@dripdepot you would chuckle if you saw me rigging my beds. I’m not organized at all. I have three questions for ya! Q 1) Can I split drip lines the same way as the regular tubing? If so, 2) where should I cut? 3) how do I end cap it? Thank you!
@@jenniferwalters579 You bet, you can cut into 1/4" drip line to create branches. Just be sure when cutting, you don't cut the emitter -- the emitter is beneath the hole but extends just a little bit in either direction of that hole. There will be space to cut in, just not on the hole or directly on either side.
You can cap 1/4" drip line (or 1/4" tubing) with one of those goof plugs. :).
And it's ok to be a little disorganized on this! As long as you yourself can find it, it's organized enough :p
Will drip tape work if I have a gravity system that is raised about 1m high? Only 2m long garden.
Gravity systems are usually one of those things you have to install then tinker with to get going just right, but with a 2m long garden and 1m elevation, I'm cautiously optimistic that this will work. 1m is about 1.4 PSI (9.7 kPa) -- that's not a lot, but it is enough to operate some drip tape.
A couple tips that can help:
1. Use low flow drip tape -- the less flow each emitter takes, the more that will be left for those down the line.
2. Any additional elevation you can get (setting it a small support, anything really) will help ensure smooth operation.
3. Keep the container as full as you can -- the height of the water in the container will provide more pressure, but this pressure will decrease as the container empties.
With all that said, I think you have a good chance of success "out of the box" with a 2m long garden and might not need a single one of those tips :)
@@dripdepot Thank you for quick response and great tips. I'll report back when I install my system :))
@@theanswer1993 Please do, I'd love to hear how it comes out! If any questions come up along the way, you're welcome to send them our way, happy to help and gravity systems are one of my favorites (harder, but rewarding when it's up and going).
Whats the max distance I can run 1/2 feed tubing from the spickot if i use drip tubing at garden beds? I set my system up already but looking to extend. Not sure if i have to set up a seperate system to had adequate watering
A good general rule for 1/2" mainline is up to 200' and 200 GPH in flow. Flow in this case being the sum of all emitters you'll be operating at once time. For example, if you're using 100' of 1/4" drip line with a 0.5 GPH emitter spaced every 12", the flow would be 50 GPH.
Also be sure the water source can handle the flow rate of the expansion. This will be the sum of all emitters as compared to the flow rate of your water source. You can determine the flow rate of your water source with the old timer and bucket test -- time how long it takes to fill the bucket with water and then plug the numbers into this calculator to get a good approximation of its flow rate: www.dripdepot.com/irrigation-calculators/flow-rate-calculator
You're also welcome to reach out or reply here with any follow-up questions, happy to help :)
@dripdepot I have a b-hyve smart timer and from the results I'm looking at it's averaging about 0.5 gpm which seems low, spicket is all the way open and the pressure regulator is after the timer, seems really low?
@@kennethlozada8740 0.5 GPM (300 GPH) isn't too bad for a residential faucet, I'd say it's well within range of what we see, maybe even close to the average. Is that reading directly from the timer itself, or the stopwatch and bucket test? If it's from the bhyve, try it with the stopwatch and bucket and compare the two numbers just to make sure.
With that said, 300 GPH is definitely not bad -- 1/2" tubing maxes out at around 200 GPH as-is, so your 300 GPH is a healthy amount over. In this case you'd just want to make sure the expansion doesn't put you over 200 GPH in emitters :)
So I added another 20' of 1/2 supply tubing and 2 10 ft run of emitter tubing at 9" but these emitters seem to have really high pressure compared to everything else. Any ideas whole system has a regulator at start of system
@@kennethlozada8740 Happy to help!
Where in relation to the water source are these new runs -- are they close than the other runs, or further? Basically what I'm wondering is: does the new section have too high of pressure, or does the other section have too low?
Along those same lines, would you say the new section is putting out a lot more water than the previous?
Any other changes to the system recently?
Is Drip Tape great for 20-30 ft rows of corn?
It sure is! At 20', 1/4" drip line could still be used (it's good up to 20' to 30' depending on the spacing) but drip tape can absolutely handle those lengths (or even much longer) with no problems. :)
Can the drip line be driven over by a riding lawn mower? Or should it be buried?
Probably best to bury it in that case -- while it might not be likely to be damaged when ran over non-pressurized, enough times and the unlikely becomes probable. We do see folks leave it on the surface and adjust the mower blade to be higher than the emitter line, but even that is apt to eventually lead to some damaged lines. While easy to repair, it'd probably be best to bury it in those situations (though burying it comes with its own risk of a clogged emitter down the line).
No one right answer on this one (which makes it a great question!), but one to weigh the pros and cons on of either installation :)
@@dripdepot thanks for the feedback! Perhaps the solution is to re-route the mower path and mow alongside the drip line.
@@Hilary8810 That is a good option as well! Is this for the emitter line (where the water comes out), or the mainline tubing feeding the system? If it's for the mainline feeding the system, you're welcome to bury it 6" to 12" deep anywhere it crosses locations you need to mow.
If it's for the emitter line, then your solution is a great one :)
@@dripdepot it would be a mainline, that feeds the system. Our garden space is 40 ft from the water source. So burying may be a good option too.
@@Hilary8810 Oh, awesome! Ok, for the mainline you can bury away without worrying about clogging :) At first I was thinking emitter line, which can be buried, but does increase the risk of clogging.
For the mainline, try not to bury it deeper than 12" -- probably still a good idea to align it so the mower doesn't cross it too often (don't want the weight of the mower to cavitate the lines) but we definitely see the mainline tubing buried like this all the time successfully.
Is drip tape PVC? I want to stick with polyethylene
Though manufacturers don't like to share the exact recipe with us, I can confirm it is not PVC and is going to be mostly Polyethylene for it UV resistance and molecular stability :)
Damn this channel's got too much drippp
Indeed it does! We do some irrigation too 😁