Even though I now know with certainty that I should be using PVC for my project, I was totally enthralled by your coverage of all the possible options. Literally couldnt stop watching. 😂
This is the first thing I opened this morning -- thank you for the great start to my day! If any questions come up while you're planning, don't hesitate to drop a line, always happy to help :)
@@dripdepot You did a fantastic job. Can't state that enough. Should have a version of this in the garden section of the average big box hardware store.
Hello! Thanks for the well done videos. I’m starting a drip irrigation project for my back yard. The trench is completed. The 6 zone system has already been installed by a “professional”. One zone is feeding the smaller front yard. The remaining 5 zones will feed the back yard. I will use 3 of those zones now but run the line for the remaining two for the remaining part of the yard to be done at a later date. Taking your advice, I’ve determined the water pressure to be 40 psi. The water flow rate is 207.43 GPH. I will need 900 - 1000 feet of post-shut off valve below ground mainline for the project. The turn angles for the lines will be close to but not exactly 90 degrees and 45 degrees. I will be supplying 4 trees and two raised plant/flower beds. I’m in El Paso, TX. It gets below freezing a few times a year. The soil is sand and rock. I’m leaning towards polyethylene tubing for mainline but I’d thought I’d see if you agree or have a better recommendation.
Great question on the mainline -- to some degree cost of different lines is regional, and of course there's the time investment to weigh as well when deciding on a mainline. Poly tubing is going to be much easier to run and there's a good chance you won't need fittings for the 45° turns. It's not uncommon to use poly tubing in this way, particularly anywhere that gets freezing temperatures during winter (but it's not limited to those locations). I'm a bit biased since I work with a lot of poly tubing, but for DIY I think poly tubing makes a great choice for anything downstream of the zone valves. Because the tubing is so much more flexible, you get a lot more room for error in everything from trenching to fittings, and if you make any mistakes, the repairs are very easy. If this (or any portions of it) will be above surface, poly tubing definitely has the full advantage.
Great question -- water hammer arrestors are not always needed, but if you are experiencing any water hammer when the timer valve closed, I would recommend one. I usually recommend one for older houses (whose piping may be older) as well. They're fairly inexpensive and the shock of a sudden change in water flow can eventually lead to damage, so if there's any water hammer (or if you want maximum protection) I'd go with one.
@@mnchnn You got it -- the most important part is for it to be before the timer -- it sounds like you're thinking something alone the lines of: Arrestor --> Splitter --> Timer --> Head Assembly If so, that is a solid order -- that order will allow the arrestor to absorb the shock of the sudden change in flow when the timer valve shuts. :)
Even though I now know with certainty that I should be using PVC for my project, I was totally enthralled by your coverage of all the possible options. Literally couldnt stop watching. 😂
This is the first thing I opened this morning -- thank you for the great start to my day! If any questions come up while you're planning, don't hesitate to drop a line, always happy to help :)
@@dripdepot You did a fantastic job. Can't state that enough. Should have a version of this in the garden section of the average big box hardware store.
Hello! Thanks for the well done videos. I’m starting a drip irrigation project for my back yard. The trench is completed. The 6 zone system has already been installed by a “professional”. One zone is feeding the smaller front yard. The remaining 5 zones will feed the back yard. I will use 3 of those zones now but run the line for the remaining two for the remaining part of the yard to be done at a later date. Taking your advice, I’ve determined the water pressure to be 40 psi. The water flow rate is 207.43 GPH. I will need 900 - 1000 feet of post-shut off valve below ground mainline for the project. The turn angles for the lines will be close to but not exactly 90 degrees and 45 degrees. I will be supplying 4 trees and two raised plant/flower beds. I’m in El Paso, TX. It gets below freezing a few times a year. The soil is sand and rock. I’m leaning towards polyethylene tubing for mainline but I’d thought I’d see if you agree or have a better recommendation.
Great question on the mainline -- to some degree cost of different lines is regional, and of course there's the time investment to weigh as well when deciding on a mainline. Poly tubing is going to be much easier to run and there's a good chance you won't need fittings for the 45° turns. It's not uncommon to use poly tubing in this way, particularly anywhere that gets freezing temperatures during winter (but it's not limited to those locations).
I'm a bit biased since I work with a lot of poly tubing, but for DIY I think poly tubing makes a great choice for anything downstream of the zone valves. Because the tubing is so much more flexible, you get a lot more room for error in everything from trenching to fittings, and if you make any mistakes, the repairs are very easy. If this (or any portions of it) will be above surface, poly tubing definitely has the full advantage.
Good info. Thanks
You bet, any time!
Is a water hammer arrester important if I install a hose end water timer?
Great question -- water hammer arrestors are not always needed, but if you are experiencing any water hammer when the timer valve closed, I would recommend one. I usually recommend one for older houses (whose piping may be older) as well. They're fairly inexpensive and the shock of a sudden change in water flow can eventually lead to damage, so if there's any water hammer (or if you want maximum protection) I'd go with one.
In what order would this be installed with regards to the head assembly? Can it be screwed to the tap first then hose splitter after it?
@@mnchnn You got it -- the most important part is for it to be before the timer -- it sounds like you're thinking something alone the lines of:
Arrestor --> Splitter --> Timer --> Head Assembly
If so, that is a solid order -- that order will allow the arrestor to absorb the shock of the sudden change in flow when the timer valve shuts. :)
Perfect, thank you for all your help. Much appreciated!
@@mnchnn Any time!
Good