I have a 7000-1. It's nice, but I like my D7000Y better. [My radio collection includes numerous T-Os.] I also have a B&K 520B. Doesn't get much use, but that's better than needing it every day, I think.
Same here, I probably only use my B&K 520B a couple of times a year and have found some bad transistors with it on several occasions over the years. Thanks for watching and your comment.
I've always liked that type of multi band radio, I think they have a classy and hi-tech look for the day. An easy one for you Ken, just looking at the rats nest of caps to the right of the dial gave me the shudder lol. Well done, great video
Lubricate the RF gain potentiometer with contact cleaner spray. The band switch contacts might be dirty or corroded. This can affect AM reception. Try cleaning the band switch contacts using contact cleaner spray. Capacitors and Transistors in Zenith radios from that era generally have good capacitors. However, if the radio was stored in a damp environment, the capacitors could become leaky, affecting volume. Try removing and reinserting the socket transistors, clean the pins and use the red deoxIT on the sockets. Might be the oscillator transistor. One easy way to check that your LO is working is to place another radio next to your TO, with the dial at a blank spot near the top of the dial. Then put the TO on the AM/BC band and tune around between 1100 and 1200 KHz. If you hear the noise level drop significantly on the other radio, your LO is working. If you’re hear nothing on the AM band except when the BFO (Beat Frequency Oscillator) is on, it suggests that the IF (Intermediate Frequency) string is working. However, either the RF amplifier or, more likely, the LO (Local Oscillator) is not functioning. The oscillator transistor could also be defective. The FM RF and oscillator transistors are the same, number 121-687, I think. Swap them and the AM should work, and FM will not work. The oscillator transistor might be bad. Good luck!
Ken…do you need to remove chassis from case to replace dial bulbs? Are they under the copper plate on dial tube? Screw in? What did you determine to be your light issue…no 1.5 volt D Cell installed? Thanks!
Robert, No, you do not have to remove the chassis in order to replace the 2 dial bulbs in the dial tube. All you do is naturally remove the battery cover and then remove the 3 back cover screws on the bottom, when removing the back cover being careful not to pull it out too far until you disconnect the antenna lead, the tuner RCA plug and the 3 prong plug that connects the 12 volt and 1.5-volt batteries to the radio. Turn the band selector switch in the location where you’ll see the copper plate on the dial drum. You’ll need a socket (standard) with perhaps an extension to remove the 2 screws; you’ll then have access to the dial bulbs. In the bottom right area of the back cover that is just for the dial lights and the chart map bulb. It’s just a single D battery that operate the lights. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ken for the prompt and complete reply. The chart light looks straightforward…unscrew and replace. This looks like a job for small fingers…not my big mitts…cheers…
Got one gave to me today. Plugged it in and it does nothing so I am looking forward to getting into it.
Cool! Hope you get it working,
I have a 7000-1. It's nice, but I like my D7000Y better. [My radio collection includes numerous T-Os.]
I also have a B&K 520B. Doesn't get much use, but that's better than needing it every day, I think.
Same here, I probably only use my B&K 520B a couple of times a year and have found some bad transistors with it on several occasions over the years. Thanks for watching and your comment.
I've always liked that type of multi band radio, I think they have a classy and hi-tech look for the day. An easy one for you Ken, just looking at the rats nest of caps to the right of the dial gave me the shudder lol. Well done, great video
Thanks Frank!
I don't have AM but good FM...any thoughts? Thanks
Lubricate the RF gain potentiometer with contact cleaner spray.
The band switch contacts might be dirty or corroded. This can affect AM reception. Try cleaning the band switch contacts using contact cleaner spray.
Capacitors and Transistors in Zenith radios from that era generally have good capacitors. However, if the radio was stored in a damp environment, the capacitors could become leaky, affecting volume.
Try removing and reinserting the socket transistors, clean the pins and use the red deoxIT on the sockets.
Might be the oscillator transistor. One easy way to check that your LO is working is to place another radio next to your TO, with the dial at a blank spot near the top of the dial. Then put the TO on the AM/BC band and tune around between 1100 and 1200 KHz. If you hear the noise level drop significantly on the other radio, your LO is working.
If you’re hear nothing on the AM band except when the BFO (Beat Frequency Oscillator) is on, it suggests that the IF (Intermediate Frequency) string is working. However, either the RF amplifier or, more likely, the LO (Local Oscillator) is not functioning.
The oscillator transistor could also be defective. The FM RF and oscillator transistors are the same, number 121-687, I think. Swap them and the AM should work, and FM will not work. The oscillator transistor might be bad.
Good luck!
Thanks so much for the response...Looks like I have some work to do. I'm new at this but will take it slow.@@kenslab1973
Ken…do you need to remove chassis from case to replace dial bulbs? Are they under the copper plate on dial tube? Screw in? What did you determine to be your light issue…no 1.5 volt D Cell installed? Thanks!
Robert,
No, you do not have to remove the chassis in order to replace the 2 dial bulbs in the dial tube. All you do is naturally remove the battery cover and then remove the 3 back cover screws on the bottom, when removing the back cover being careful not to pull it out too far until you disconnect the antenna lead, the tuner RCA plug and the 3 prong plug that connects the 12 volt and 1.5-volt batteries to the radio. Turn the band selector switch in the location where you’ll see the copper plate on the dial drum. You’ll need a socket (standard) with perhaps an extension to remove the 2 screws; you’ll then have access to the dial bulbs. In the bottom right area of the back cover that is just for the dial lights and the chart map bulb. It’s just a single D battery that operate the lights. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ken for the prompt and complete reply. The chart light looks straightforward…unscrew and replace. This looks like a job for small fingers…not my big mitts…cheers…