Boat Electric Wiring Made Easy, Part 3, Bilge Pumps, Float Switch, Automatic & Manual Complete Guide
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Boat electrics from scratch made easy! - Part 3. In this episode we install two electric bilge pumps into our boat electrical mock-up. Having already installed the busbar, master switch and main switch panel, we have most of the boat electrical infrastructure in place, so installing these bilge pumps does not take long.
We first look at three different bilge pumps, a manual (simple on/off) bilge pump, a large capacity automatic bilge pump and a built-in float switch, and a smaller automatic bilge pump that uses electronics (instead of a float switch) to decide when it needs to operate. We also look in detail at using a Seaflo dedicated bilge pump switch system, which takes care of both manual operation and automatic operation for one of the pumps we are installing.
We start with the manual bilge pump, which we are pairing with an external float switch. It is important to make sure that the polarity of the bilge pump is correct, otherwise it will turn the wrong way and won't pump. We also must consider the maximum current draw for the two bilge pumps we are installing to make sure we don't overload the switch / fuse in the main switch panel - in this case deciding to use two different switches, one for each bilge pump. For the manual bilge pump, we first take its negative lead to the 'engine bay' area and connect up to the busbar (electrical negative distribution bar), using a soldered on ring terminal. For the wiring of the positive side of the system we must run the positive feed through the float switch. We decide to bring the wires through the bulkhead to the 'high and dry' main switch panel side of things, so that we do not have to worry about water-proofing the connections.
The second bilge pump that we are installing is an automatic bilge pump. Although this bilge pump looks very similar to other bilge pumps with a built-in float-switch, this one does not include a float switch, but instead uses an electronic system in place of the float switch. The way this works is that every few minutes the electronic system switches on the bilge pump for a short time, when while the bilge pump is on the electronic 'brain' monitors the amount of electrical current drawn to determine if water is present. If the bilge pump is pumping water it will continue to pump until the water has gone (it knows this again by monitoring the current draw while pumping). If no water is present the bilge pump turns itself off again until its next check after another few minutes. We have a separate video and article showing how this works in reality which can be found in the links below.
• Don’t Buy An Automatic...
For the electrical wiring of the automatic bilge pump we are using a dedicated Seaflo bilge pump switch. This small switch panel has a switching system which can be used in manual mode (switch only on while held) and an automatic mode where the switch is pushed the other way - it can be left in the automatic mode indefinitely. The Seaflo bilge pump switch panel is illuminated (red for manual operation and green when switched to automatic operation. The wiring connections of the automatic bilge pump switch can be a little difficult to understand at first so we include some close-up photographs showing the wiring, which can be found by following the link(s) below:
www.boatfittin...
Some of the items featured in this video can be bought (in the UK) by following the link below:
www.boatfittin...
Part for 4 and beyond please. This is one of the best DIY series in boating space!!!
Great job explaining the basic wiring , I would like to see you do a video on how to wire an electric reel receptacle with a breaker, to this date I can’t find a video any where on the internet
Yes. Please do more. 🙏🏻
Man. That blew my mind away. Thanks for giving me the confidence, I'm having anxiety over where and how to begin and then your series came along, I'll be rewatching these videos a lot😅. Thank you much
Hey Richard, I think we lost you there, is everything ok? Hoping so and that your business is doing well and keeping you busy. Looks like you have a pretty good thing going here with the videos w/ over 15k subscribers and over 70k views on this video alone. Looks like several people were really appreciating the unique content. Hope everything is ok and that you find the time to come back to video making soon. I know content production can be extremely time consuming. Thanks for what you have done so far, it's awesome!
Great video series. I know it is difficult to find the time, but you really should make these video more often. They are much appreciated. Thank You.
Thanks, and sorry for the long gap - I will try to get onto the next one soon.
Richard
May I second the request for No. 4.
These are fabulous videos, different from absolutely everything else on UA-cam. Yer unique 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I would like to see radio and stereo and fish finder install please
@@BoatFittings - any update on a 4th video in this excellent series?
This bilge pump setup seems as though the master switch would cut power to both bilge pumps?
Would you not want at least one wired more directly to the battery so that when you turn off the power at the main switch, the bilge pumps can still operate - to pump out rain water whilst on a mooring etc?
Great video and really helpful!
On my sailboat I wire my safety items the following way
1. Automatic bilge pump thru the special auto Manual switch then to the batteries
2. VHF bypasses the switch panel but is not wired directly to the batteries.
This way when I leave the boat I turn off the master switch cutting power to everything except the automatic bilge pump.
To turn on the VHF radio I turn on the master switch then the switch on the VHF Radio..
This way if the switch panel has a problem I can still use the radio.
This is by far the most easy understandable guide to boat electrics! Thank you so much for your videos! I would love to see more in this series :)
Best boat electrical videos I've seen yet. Very clear, easy to understand instructions on the practical aspects of wiring methods. Most electrical vids are all about wire and fuse sizing, and that sort of stuff. No one ever shows you how to put it together on the boat, and why you do it that way. Great stuff. Can't wait for Episode 4!
Part 4 please. These have been very educational. Thank you
Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away.
Kind regards,
Richard
Great video series - very clear and professionally presented. Would love to see a start battery added with some sort of split charging solution added in the future.
Hi glad you liked the videos. I will take on board your suggestion for a future video.
Kind regards,
Richard
Huge thank you! I recently started working as a marine electricians “apprentice” despite having been very clear in my interviews that I had limited electrical experience.
I’ve already retained more info on the actual connections from these three videos then I did in my first month on the job. I’ve been mostly running wires, but now I feel much more prepared for the next step of connecting everything up
Hi many thanks for your comment. I hope your apprenticeship leads you into some interesting projects - would be great to hear any interesting lessons that you may learn as time goes on.
All the best,
Richard
Good look. You start by the right place.
If a 4th videos comes great, the first 3 are great been wondering how ill go about wireing up my boat , these films are Ace , thanks for making them massive help
Great educational video. Explained by someone who do the things he like with love.
Thank you SO much for these videos. Found them extremely straightforward and easy to understand. Much appreciated, Cheers!
Please do a part 4 !!! This is so helpful!!!
Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now.
Kind regards,
Richard
Thank you for your videos. I have been working on my 1972 Tollycraft 40, I decided to rewire it as the wiring was, let's say interestingly badly maintained. I thought it would be "fun" to just rewire, lol. In 1972 there really was no off-grid type of wiring so everything was wired for a genset or dc and shore power. Well I wanted to simplify and upgrade to new wire codes, lots of fun so far. I have taken this Tollycraft 40 to a new level of totally off-grid self sustained life. Watching your videos are helping me understand the dc side of wiring in its simplest form, as i do have extensive knowledge in the ac side from my off-grid projects. Awesome videos thanks again. 👍
Hi thanks for your comment, I hope your re-wiring project works out well.
Richard
Glad to see this episode is out! I can't wait for ep4! Maybe a "relays, cables and fuses" related video would be nice, perhaps? You could explain why would you need relays, when would you want them, how to size cables and fuses for the appropriate circuit... I am in the process of building from scratch my dream boat. The boat I bought, it had no mechanics in it, I bought the mechanics from a separate boat and got to merge both together, so I also need to add pumps, gauges, etc and I'd like to do a proper job at it with properly sized fuses, relays where needed, etc...)
Hi Eric,
Thanks for letting me know some of things you would like to see in episode 4. I will see how many of these I can fit in - its great to have some suggestions.
All the best,
Richard
As there is a dedicated man/auto switch for the bilge pump why do we need another switch on the 6 switch panel?
@@Seafariireland so you can switch it off.
Excellent information!
Thanks from Melbourne Australia
Glad you enjoyed it!
So glad i found these! Please, please make more. Wouldn't you want the automatic bilge pump to bypass the main power switch? Could you show how to set that up?
Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. I will probably look at and discuss wiring a pump direct to the battery in that one.
Kind regards,
Richard
Hey Richard, great video series! Looking forward to the next one showing a fuze panel instead of a switch panel.
H Brian, thanks for you comment. Hope to make the next one soon
Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos.
Hi thanks for your kind comment.
All the best,
Richard
Really appreciate you taking the time. This helps a great deal
Many thanks for your kind comments.
great video! Like Einstein said, make it as simple as possible, but no simpler! Brilliant! Well done Richard.
I'm wondering at the cycles these automatic elecrtonic bilge pumps are rated for? What are their Time To Failure numbers for their internal parts.
And if used as designed (to actually test every 2&1/2 mins) 24-7-365 days a year, At a 2.5 minute test cycle, that's over 109,000 cycles every year????? after 2&1/2 years that's over a quarter of a million cycles? I think your inclusion of the float switch and manual pump is far safer, plus the automatic pumps with the built in float!
Part 4 please! This is such a well articulated guide. The world wants part 4! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Unfortunately, I get the feeling that he's gone (from here).
@@_onesimpleideaoh dear 😮
Part 4 please! This is the best guide to boat electrics I have found on UA-cam
Great video, still very useful!
I'm definitely less intimidated by my switch panel now😂. I'm ready to add one with led lights and do away with my old toggle switch panel.
I’ve got a new (old) boat and redoing a lot of the wiring and although there aren’t many standards for marine wiring, nearly all of them state “do not rely on soldering alone for wiring connections”. I’m opting to crimp and then use waterproof shrink connectors.
Where would you place a master fuse (50A) in your wiring model?
Everything you've done so far is switched - as in turned off if the master switch is turned off.
There are circuits on the boat that should still be powered if the master switch is turned off - automatic bilge pumps being one example.
Or, at least, if your boat is left in the water when unattended, the bilge pump should not be wired through the master switch (though you would want it to have its own switch).
Totally. I was looking for this comment. That boat is sinking.
Great video series! Just one question...If I run a bilge with the float switch how can I wire to allow the bilge/float to operate when the main switch is off?
Hi thanks for your question, it is possible to wire the bilge pump system direct to the battery via a separate circuit to achieve this.
Kind regards,
Richard
Excellent Series! I was hoping I’d see ignition wiring, I’m about to start a total rewire. Hopefully I can find videos from someone as thorough as yours! Thank You !! 🚤
Hi thanks for your comment.
Thank you SO much for these amazing how-to videos.
In this one (part 3), you refer to a manual override option for the first bilge pump. Do you recommend resorting to a separate 3 positions (on/off/auto) switch like the one used for the second pump, or to use the panel (on/off) switch for manual override and have the auto-switch bypassing the panel (to stay always on on auto)? Thanks
Can I ask why you wire the BILGE pumps through the switch panel and the battery isolator? This is the first thing I test on a survey and always get told the isolator is it won't work. So the boat only takes on water when you are on board and the isolator is on? This should be wired directly from the battery to your BILGE PUMP fused manual/ auto switch panel. Hope this helps Alistair
Hi Alistair, thanks for you question / comment. I take your point / recommendation / opinion - though I think there is some merit to being able to easily isolate ALL electrics in one master switch. In my opinion if I was going to leave my boat for a long time I'm uncomfortable having a device of any kind (like a pump) permanently on, in case of malfunction.
Kind regards,
Richard
Thank you so much for these videos. Can't wait for the next one. Two questions though. 1. Would you want the auto bilge pump wired before the master on so it can run while away from boat without other power on? 2. What is the make / model of that dc power supply. What amp model should I be looking for? I need to get one. Thanks.
Well explained..thank you
You are welcome
Great series so far. I did notice you changed counting from the bottom to counting from the top in-between episodes 2 and 3. Also if this were a real boat I'd highly recommend a label maker for the connections at the panels and the bus.
Part 4 please, as others have asked. Excellent series. Would like to know how to add multiple lights into the system, nav lights, and solar panel (with solar controller).
Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away.
Kind regards,
Richard
Thank you for these videos I'm about to start from scratch on my boat as the electrical work has been completely bodged and was feeling very overwhelmed untill I saw these videos. Big thanks 😊👍❤️
Connecting a new VHF set which has a ground connection. The old set didn't. How would you easily identify a ground connection in a birds nest of someone else's wiring? Or would you run a new ground and where would you connect it?
Hi thank for your question. Running a new wire would probably preferable. On the other hand, if this is difficult, and you have another wire that you think is a good ground wire, then you can test by using a multi-meter to do a continuity test. Take a length of wire from the negative battery lead to near where the wire is that you want to check, then put the mutl-meter inbetween the two for the continuity check (assuming you are familiar with that functionality on the multi-meter).
Kind regards,
Richard
Rally great series, thanks! I'm redoing from scratch the electrical wiring of my 43 year old boat, and your videos are helping hugely.
Is the next video coming soon by any chance?
This is a great series! When can hope to see part 4?
Hi thanks for your comment - sorry to have such a large gap - I will try to do part 4 soon!!!
Great videos!! very well explained and understandable.
I've never wired a boat, I just find wiring interesting. Looks like once you've done a couple circuits, it becomes pretty repetitive. Positive -> Fuse/Breaker -> Switch -> Device -> Negative. Once you grasp that, you can easily add in whatever you need. One thing to consider is using a relay to switch higher current loads like motors, then a toggle/rocker switch to activate the relay. Saves your switch contacts a bit and may keep you from doing long runs of thick wire. Especially for motors, which are electrically spikey and noisy, a solid state relay may be the most reliable (the name brand ones), as opposed to running it through a toggle/rocker.
Bilge/float switch should be hardwired directly to the battery.
Where’s part 4? Lol. U got me interested in your series and looks like you stopped at this one. 😢
Ah sorry to take so long for the next one. We have been doing a lot of design work / bespoke stainless steel fabrications and I am afraid this has lately taken up all available time. I will try to get onto part 4 soon though.
Richard
@BoatFittings Darn, wish I knew what happened to this guy! It's been a year since his last video. Hope he's okay.
for the auto bilge pump, utilizing the 3way switch for auto/off/manual, is it necessary to utilize the main switch panel as well or could you just bypass and wire the 3-way switch directly to a power and negative terminals...the use of both switches for the one pump seems redundant
why you're not wiring the bilge pump to permanently on (with auto)? that's what I have on my wooden boat for reasons.
Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).
Kind regards,
Richard
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't have bus bars and my auto bilge has been disconnected for years. Can I just wire up a system completely isolated from everything else and keep the 3 way switch mounted near the stern near the battery compartment and pump? and run my pos / neg direct to the battery?
I do have one question, have subscribed so hopefully an answer at a later date.
I have an automatic bilge pump in my dinghy, its run from a small battery and has a solar panel to keep it charged. Its fused, but it does not run through the main battery cut out. I need that part to pump out when im not there. What are your thoughts?
Hi thanks for your comment and question. I think it is quite valid to have a pump operating outside of the main cut-off switch for the reason that you have given. The only down-side is if the pump drains your battery if that is a problem to you, but it sounds like your solar panel will keep things topped up, and understand the benefit of having a pump ready to keep the water down when you are not there.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you 🙏🏼 one question though : if you switch off the battery and remove the key, the automatic bilge pump will not work if one day there is water while you are not on board, correct? Shouldn’t the bilge pump be directly wired to the battery?
Question, it seems that the positive wire for the 2nd bilge pump goes thru the fuse panel. Wouldn't you wire the auto wire direct? The auto feature will not work unless that switch is on, meaning the isolator must be on as well. Forgive me if I missed something.
Any updates on this guy and if there's a part 4 coming? I'm really into how he describes everything
In the US they require a breaker or fuse from the battery to the panel. It’s a good idea regardless of where you live. 😊
I think it would have been a good idea to to have mentioned the fuses for each switch and fuse function.
Where is part 4?
Can you tell me why you would run the auto bilge through two switches rather than just wiring directly through the Blue Sea switch?
Hi thanks that's a fair question. There is no particular need to go through two switches, and it would be fine to run just through the Seaflo switch. I like the idea of having a 'central' switch panel ie one place where I can turn on and off systems, but that is just a personal preference. In practice in boats that I have had in the past there might be one or two switches on the main switch panel that spend most if not all of their life in the 'ON' position.
We need number 4 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now.
Kind regards,
Richard
how faraway is part 4?
May I ask why not breakers instead of fuses? Breakers you can reset on the spot?
Very clear. Thank you. Part 4 would be great! And could you cover amps and wire rating choices please....perhaps when you tackle the fuse box?
Great video. It would be amazing if you could show how to use the multimeter to trouble shoot electrical issues using the model. Thank you again for the amazing video.
Awesome video! One question, that wasn't really explained. Connecting negative from automatic bilge pump and negative togeather wasn't necessary, right? We could separatly connect it to the bus, as far as I understand.
Hi thanks for your comment. Yes if I understand your question correctly, both wires could have been brought to the busbar to achieve the same effect.
Kind regards,
Richard
Nice! Just a suggestion. It's better to have the bilge pump connected directly to the battery.
Otherwise your pumps won't work when you're away and you get a leak... 😢
Hi thanks for your comment. I think you make a valid point, and there are some benefits to what you suggest. Worst-case scenario you choose whether to prioritise a dry bilge vs drained battery potential.
Kind regards,
Richard
Why soldier rather than crimp, or, even better, crimp first and then solder?
If the bilge pumps are switched, then every time you leave the boat switched off, the bilge is unprotected from flooding.
Thank you for painstaking efforts in providing this collection.
Hi thanks for your comments. I just find soldering easy to do, and crimping not always so easy - depending on what equipment and terminals you have. As I have mentioned a few times I have not had any problems with soldered joints, but have had some with crimps. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).
Kind regards,
Richard
Videos are super helpful, thank you very much for breaking this down. I would love to see a video on NEMA2000 networking and how to build an integrated system from scratch. Cheers.
Without a doubt the best I've seen.it just makes things easy to understand.well 👍
I've watched all three episodes and have a couple of questions. 1. Wouldn't all the cable runs be tidier if the negative buss-bar was mounted adjacent to the fuse panel? This would allow for long runs of sheathed two core wire. 2. Isn't wiring the auto/manual pump to the fuse panel a bit redundant since it's own control panel also has a fuse?
Why did you wire a fused switch for bilge pumps in a way that will be isolated from battery when you operate the main switch leaving your vessel unprotected from flooding? It's even wired to another fused switch?
Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).
Kind regards,
Richard
Any plans to complete the series?... first 3 have been very useful, thanks!
Comment: have you considered creating a hot battery bus. At the moment the bilge pumps only operate if the battery switch is switched on. When the boat is moored the battery switch is normally turned off, then the bilge pumps will not operate. Perhaps not a desirable situation.
Hi thanks for your question regarding a 'hot battery bus'. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).
Subscribed thinking I could get a full run down of installing boat electrics but only 3 episodes which is disappointing
Hi thanks for your comment. Sorry to have only done 3 episodes so far, I will try to get the next one done shortly
Electrics are my achilles heal. You are makking this so understandable. Please keep the videos coming.
i liked your video and your attention to detail BUT you have to leave the batt sw on and your other sw on/auto when you leave your boat not a good practice in my opinion. I prefer to connect directly to the batt or hot batt bus.
Thank you for these videos. I'm wiring an electrical system for a 1973 Pearson Ensign daysailer from scratch and this series has been the most informative. My biggest question now is at 12:40 you connect the three wires for the bilge pump by soldering them and covering with heat shrink. If this were within the bilge in a wet area, is there any gap between the two wires that would compromise the waterproofing? Are there any products you are aware of or recommendations you have for a waterproof connection among the three wires without soldering?
Hi thanks for your great question. I have not yet come across a purpose made waterproof electrical connector for 3 wires sadly. The only solution I would think of would be to solder the wires and then 'pot' them in a surrounding which would allow you to silicone them all in place for water-proofing.
Kind regards,
Richard
I have worked on and wired boats for many years , one of the worst boats i ever worked on was a boat that every wire supplying the power to the object was red , you should have mentioned or , on your display used the proper colored wire for each item , there is a standard color used for each item wether it is a solid color or has a tracer on it , such as the brown for bilge , blue for lights , etc , etc , etc .
Hi thanks for your comment.
Kind regards,
Richard
Why don’t you crimp the lugs on? What’s with the soldering?
Hi thanks for your question. In my experience solder has never let me down, but crimps sometimes have - especially after a few years once corrosion has set in. I am aware that some people prefer to rely on a crimp, and I'm sure there are pros and cons for each method.
Kind regards,
Richard
I would like some advice please?
Can I use a switch that's not a seaflo and run one of the positive to the switch and the second positive to the battery to get both functions for auto and manual
Hi thanks for your question. You do not specifically need a seaflo switch. The important thing is the you achieve the equivalent functionality. One of the positives can run through a switch to the battery for manual operation. The other positive can run through a separate switch to the battery to give automatic operation. Both positives want to run through switches though.
Kind regards,
Richard
Should a bilge pump supply be direct to the battery before the main isolator?
Hi this is a good question, and has been asked before. This depends on your point of view, and depends partly on whether you have separate batteries for your 'leisure' part of the system and your engine starter motor. If you have only one battery for all then you need to decide which is the greater risk for you - potentially draining your battery and not being able to start the motor, or potentially having a bilge 'full' of water. I expect some people will have strong views on this, but for me this is not a straighforward one to decide.
All the best,
Richard
Im a domestic installer and do EICRs have also wired out my sailing dinghy. That said, really good and i like your finer points a lot. Taking this to my 27 foot yacht that im now renovating. Many thanks.
Hi thanks for your kind comments, glad to be of some help.
Kind regards,
Richard
Why would you want an auto bilge draining your battery every two and a half minutes ? my worst experiences are getting in my boat and my battery being dead.
Are you doing anymore more how to videos like using the fuse board as you already mentioned
Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away.
Kind regards,
Richard
Part 4 please ❤
Richard, these are so very helpful! I have a 78 Ericson 34 and am having to troubleshoot wiring. My 12v panels (have 2), no longer receive power from the battery or they are not working anyway. We tested the batteries (have two), tested continuity to our switcher.
I’ve cleaned the connections of corrosion, etc but still no power.
And, these panels worked a few weeks ago. Only thing I changed is I added a Smart Plug shore power hookup for my AC power.
Also now having a “Reverse Polarity” warning to boot!!
Any tips?
Again, we’ll done on these videos, very helpful for a new sailboat owner!!
Hi thanks for your kind comment. With your current problem my first suggestion would be to temporarily disconnect the new 'Smart Plug' to see if that resolves the problem - if that is the case then you can say that it looks like the problem was introduced with the Smart Plug, if that does not resolve the problem it is a case of working from the battery 'outwards'.
Great videos. Very useful and reassuring, especially as I recognise the switch panels and busbars. Question, why does my LED cabin light dim when the bilge pump's test routine kicks in. If I switch the light off and then back on, it returns to full brightness. The light works fine, even when the pump is actively pumping. Is there some way to fix/prevent this? Many thanks.
Hi thanks for your comment. That's an interesting problem - a bit confusing. It sounds like the action of the bilge pump is causing a voltage drop in the lighting circuit, which the LED is not very good and handling. Without further knowledge of how your circuits are laid out, I can only suggest to look into separating the bilge pump wiring from the lighting wiring, if that makes sense? The other thing you can do is to check the voltage at the battery to see if it is up to scratch.
Kind regards,
Richard
Yeah that was ace, thanks!
Thank you so much for this, as someone trying to understand the inner workings of a boat this is gold.
Excellent series of videos! Thanks for this. Can just add myself to the choir: part 4 please🙏 But I understand if you have to do other work to make a living. 😉
Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now.
Kind regards,
Richard
Fantastic videos, can't wait for more. Question though: in 2023 why are we still using fuses rather than breakers? Are fuses just cheaper? Or is there some technical difference?
Hi John,
Thanks that seems like a good question. I happened to have the 'fuse-type' handy to make the video, I beleive you can buy the equivalent panel with breakers, I guess it is a cost vs convenience balance.
Richard
Thank you! As someone who has been electrically challenged for his whole life, I thank you. It is simple wiring that I just can't "see" in my head.
This series is finally making sense. I don't need the theory, I need hands-on, step-by-step how-to's that make real-world sense to me.
I do wish you had walked us through each step, especially the switch, how it was wired and why... (and may I ask why ALL "power" or "hot" wires are not RED??? IMHO if a wire carries 'live current', it should be RED...) I am working my way slowly into the existing wiring and my need to repair / update / add / remove systems as I upgrade and refit our sailboat in preparation to liveaboard and cruise.
I am currently trying to wire up a secondary diesel fuel pump (Edelbrock 38GHP #17302) for my DIY dual Racor 500FG Diesel Polishing system... and I will admit to being a little stumped trying to wire up a 2 way, 3 pole toggle switch... (I have since decided to use a 30A 2 pole Breaker Switch instead...)
PLEASE keep going, and please keep it at a Boat Wiring for Dummies level!! =]
CJ&JD Blackwell
SV Rocinante
95' Gozzard 44 MK1A
Hi thanks for your comment and questions. I do believe that all of the positive wires are indeed RED as they should be. Good luck with your re-wiring
All the best,
Richard
I like how you explain alot. Can you make a video on wiring a different battery switch or multiples. I watched your 3 videos demos so far. Thanks bro
Hi thanks for your comment, and suggestion for a future video - I will try to include your request in a future video
Another good job. My son lives in Mexico. He recently replaced his bilge pumps. I’m going to share your vids with him. He will gain a lot of knowledge watching your channel. Cheers!!
Hi many thanks for your kind comment, and for passing these details on to your son - I hope it is useful for him.
Kind regards,
Richard
great
Hi thanks for your kind comment
Where are all the fuses??
I’m Stoked. It’s just what I needed. Boating for a Dummy! Part 1 Electrical 😅
Hi thanks for your comment - glad to be of help!
Richard
This is the best !!!!!! You make it so clear that I am about to rip off all my cables and start from scratch…. But i know i shouldn’t😅
Hi thank for your comment. Sometimes it is easier to start from scratch, but a bit daunting - only you can decide :) Good luck
The way you have presented this , I applaud you!! Thanks so much for making this straight forward and understandable.
Oklahoma USA ❤️
Hi thanks for your comment - glad you like the videos.
Kind regards,
Richard
Aweome video! Thank you for all of the help. Does the bilge pumps you wired in work when the battery switch is off?
Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).
Kind regards,
Richard
Thanks for these really informative videos! Maybe you have explained it in some other video, but I see that you solder all the connections. Other places I read or see videos on boat electrics, it is not recommended at all, and only crimping is recommended on these kinds of installations. Quite confusing for a newbie like me. What is you take on the topic?
Hi thanks for your comment / question. Yes I did explain this in one of the videos, but here goes: In my experience I have had some issues where crimped connections (probably poorly done ones) have come lose. I have never had an issue with a soldered connection. I prefer the security of a soldered connection over a crimped connection. I'm sure there are alternative opinions / theories so I am going from my personal experience (+ the experience of some trusted others that I have compared ideas with).
All the best,
Richard
Hi there! We are about to attempt to re-wire a classic Nautor Swan, and this series has helped us feel more confident about doing it. We want to upgrade with some solar panels, would it be possible to show how to install a battery charger (solar/alternator/shore power) and inverter? Because that is probably one of the first jobs! Thank you :)
Hi Romy,
Thanks for your great suggestion, I will be aiming to cover these at some point soon