Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
Im installing subs on my 15 silverado but im running into a problem. both my leads from the side pannels that I had to tap into to get speakers signal, have current but then once i plug in to line-out converter and out to the amp it still not getting subs to turn on or amp. amp has buttons that light up green when its on and nothing. And remote wast tapped into like how u did it, ground was grounded like yours aswell, and the power wire also has current on the amp when i test it. I need help😂
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated. I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires?? I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp. I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input. would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
Hello I have a question I put my amp and speakers it did work but when I put the truck in drive and put gas it sounds really really loud do you know why
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
Is it necessary to tap into both side speaker wires for the line output converter? I saw a guy who only tapped into one side it appeared but haven't installed one myself yet
You can tap one side for two subs but some songs take advantage of both left and right differences. If you’re running a single sub you can definitely tap one side only.
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness. You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
jaime8311 so sorry for the late response. Im sure you already did the job. But yes the colors were the same. In both harnesses the speaker wires are the only two bigger gauge wires so theyre easy to pick out from the other smaller ones
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
The pins you splice into for both driver and passenger side . Is the pin # the same for a 2015 Chevy silverado .. or how do you check which pin to splice?
Pins and wire color are the same for 2014-2018(maybe 2019 too). The amp wiring kit he ordered came with 14g I believe for the speaker wire which is what we used to splice with. But you can use smaller gauge since all this is for is sending the signal to the line out converter.
I am confused on the remote turn on wire tap location to the truck. Did you disconnect it from the 10Amb #2 fuse slot location on the drivers side dash? If so, where did you relocate it?
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
You pulled the signal wires from your back speakers. If I’m putting in two channel sub amp, along with four channel speaker amp, would I use the same signal wires for the subwoofers and back speakers?
Yes. But if you’re going to be pulling signals from all 4 doors to a 4 channel amp it would probably be better to pull the head unit so you can get all 4 signals in the same place.
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
You can tap into the front speakers. From what I hear the front speakers actually have a better bass signal. Not sure about the wire colors. You’ll have to do some research or pull the panels off and see what colors are running to the speakers.
I’m having the same problem with my amp staying on I ran all my wires and have a simple speaker wire to rca. Not a line output converter, and have stock gm head unit. After I shut my truck of the amp stays on until rca’s are unplugged. It’s a 09 ext can Silverado. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Little Joe Outdoors that’s really strange. RCAs should have nothing to do with the amp being on or off. Those are strictly to get an audio signal. First thing I would do is make sure you’re remote turn on wire is in a good fuse location or tapped into the appropriate wire that allows it to turn off when the truck turns off. If you’re positive that’s good get a line output converter. I’ve always used them to get my high output signal to a low input signal. They’re cheap and work great. Good luck!
Wired everything the way you did and my subs barely move and produce very little sound. I'm not sure if its because my truck came with the Bose system. Or if it's my loc(I used a cheap loc). I have yet to get a ohm meter to test for good power and ground. If anyone has had this problem, send help😂
Only thing to do is go back over your wiring. 1) do you have a good ground. 2) is the remote turn on in a good fuse location or wired in somewhere correctly. If these two are good the amp should turn on
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
Does your truck rattle under the truck under the back seats? My 2016 rattles like crazy everytime the bass hits and it’s frustrating cause idk what it’s coming from
If the amp is definitely getting power then it’s a signal issue. Check your connections in the pillars, check the LOC, check the wiring of sub inside the box.
Thanks guys I have went over everything I've deemed either my signal is bad awaiting better connectors from amazon or the loc is bad again thanks for the amazing tutorial y'all have nailed it I just subscribed
So you didn’t had to do anything towards the factory touch screen radio? I have a 2018 Chevy as well and I’m thinking about installing an amp and subwoofers. Is it as easy as just connecting a wire to the back door speaker wires?
No you don’t ever have to touch the head unit. To sum the wiring up you need: Power wire, ground wire, remote turn on wire, and signal wires. Your signal wires run to one end of the line out converter and from the other end you run your RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp.
Remote start has nothing to do with it. It’s a remote turn on for the amp so it doesn’t stay on all the time and drain your battery. You HAVE to have this. It allows the amp to turn on when the ignition is turned on and turn off when you kill the truck. Remote start is a completely different thing.
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system. Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3) LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up) Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc) that should really be it.
The signal needs to be "summed". Think about it. Your radio plays in stereo not mono. When sitting in the car/truck ever notice guitar and cymbals may play on one side and the vocals are on the other side of the vehicle. This might be done for clarity. You notice it more with live concert recordings. The crowd cheering and whistling come out of your rear speakers. Van Halen cd's are a great example of this. I think its how it was remastered.. Anyway, grabbing a signal from on only one side either L or R you may run into this reduced sound or signal as the song plays. It's just not going to sound right.
Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
You can put clear silicone where you cut even tho water won’t get in that’s what I did when I was younger and scared about the same thing lol
Went from thinking I could do this to knowing I can’t do this. Thanks for saving me the headache lol .
U don't gotta do both sides just one for the loc
lol I came away thinking the exact opposite. I thought it was pretty straight forward,just takes a sec.
@@highlifegoodlife5400 why don’t you have to do both ?
Cuz u only have to tap into the driver side pillar. No point in doin both there's lots of videos on it.
GenZ smh
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
Hell yeah just what I needed straight to the point 🙏
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
The walkthrough is super clear. Great job. Thank you :)
Just used this as guide and installed my subs in less that 4 hrs thanks alot
Glad it helped!
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
You ever get it working?
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Why would u not just use a interface plug adapter at the back of the radio. No splicing. Just plug and play
This helped a lot for my 2016 silverado! Thank you
Were the speaker wires the same colors on your 2016?
@mikeshanks1266 yes they were
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
what if I dont want to use the stock speaker wires and swap em out for 12 gauge wires, will I still need to tap in from the stock speaker wires?
What this still work if i have Bose audio that came in the truck
do you have the bose system?
Does this work for the trucks with the Bose system?
Duhhh
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
Can someone break down the wiring for the line out converter? Also the remote wire goes into the converter and the amp?
I got 2016 silverado and got the bose system. I wanna do the same as in video but do you think it will soubd good keeping factory door speakers
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
@@TyBohler Thanks for the updated info 🤙
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
So does the amp also connect to the speakers on the dash
Im installing subs on my 15 silverado but im running into a problem. both my leads from the side pannels that I had to tap into to get speakers signal, have current but then once i plug in to line-out converter and out to the amp it still not getting subs to turn on or amp. amp has buttons that light up green when its on and nothing. And remote wast tapped into like how u did it, ground was grounded like yours aswell, and the power wire also has current on the amp when i test it. I need help😂
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated.
I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires??
I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp.
I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input.
would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
I’m going to try to do all this thanks for how you explain all this simple an easy thank you
Hello I have a question I put my amp and speakers it did work but when I put the truck in drive and put gas it sounds really really loud do you know why
Can you help me I did the same thing you did my truck is a 2014 Chevy Silverado
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
Does anyone have any advice on how to wire this through the stock radio ? Or a video to help ?
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
Any active LOC will work just fine.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
And "active" on a loc means it gives you a remote output for the amp through signal sense from the input.
What type of fuse tap did you use I can’t find non that fit the fuses on the truck
Great instructional video, you guys are GREAT!!👍👍
@@o.w.dobbins6927 appreciate it!
Would anybody happen to know if the door wire colors are the same in a 2017 regular cab Chevy
What’s the brand to the box u used for the 2/12s ??link ? Anyone
So Pro work .. God bless you .. we just need the connecters names and links to find it .. also the fuse adapter and all.
thank you
So where did you get the remote wire and power ? It is just any type of wire?
Is it necessary to tap into both side speaker wires for the line output converter? I saw a guy who only tapped into one side it appeared but haven't installed one myself yet
You can tap one side for two subs but some songs take advantage of both left and right differences. If you’re running a single sub you can definitely tap one side only.
@@JordanMoree ok thanks. Single kicker comp r 10 is what's getting put in. Did your amp install method hold up? Or rip out also.
@@69CRUZR held up great
What is the speaker wire gauge
What’s the name of the JL audio 12 that shallow enough to fit in that box
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
What do u mean by signal wires ? Wen connecting to lineout converter ,u mean left and right speaker ?
Speaker wires send a signal. So yes
Best video for this model truck sub/amp install.
Appreciate it!
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness.
You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Yup, should have taped into front speakers in that model!
Yea the rear speakers only go to 60% volume
You don’t have to get behind the radio ?
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
You didn’t have to do anything with the head unit?
@@adamheath7448 nope, everything is wired in the B pillars for signal to the LOC since the head unit has no outputs.
Quick question, was that wire OFC? Or it doesn’t really matter? Idk if to get CCA or OFC speaker wire -_- it’s for 130watt door speakers.
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@bigtheo79 you obviously didn't hear what the dude just said ofc is the obvious better choice but if you're running low wattage there's no need
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
@@bigtheo79 sorry your right
Are the wire colors in the door plugs the same with the bose systems if im still using the line out converter
Not sure on the Bose systems. Sorry
KC & KC! Did you figure it out? I’m about to do my truck.
jaime8311 so sorry for the late response. Im sure you already did the job. But yes the colors were the same. In both harnesses the speaker wires are the only two bigger gauge wires so theyre easy to pick out from the other smaller ones
Would this be the same for a 2500 duramax?
Hey what i need to buy i have 2014 silverado
Did this have a stock head unit and stock door speakers ?
Really good Video looking forward to install in my GMC sierra 👍🏼
Rigoberto, are the gmc sierra signal wires on the door harness the same as in the video?
@@MrArturoDominguez Almost everything should be the same as far as wiring harnesses go.
How do you adjust your amp back in that hole like that?
You don’t. Make your adjustments first. He already had this same setup in his previous truck so we didn’t have to mess with it.
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
Did you keep the stock radio or swapped in different video?
I got a 2017 siverado. What is the best 10 inches shallow mount subwoofer.
Skar , JL audio, sundown
I know this video is old but is it necessary to get signal from both speakers? I might just install one subwoofer
If you’re just doing one or even two you can just run one signal. Some songs take bass signal from the left and right. But one signal works just fine.
I got a question what color is the ground wire benhind the radio??
Do you have a Bose sounds system or how do you ad an aftermarket sub and amp with a Bose sound system
The pins you splice into for both driver and passenger side . Is the pin # the same for a 2015 Chevy silverado .. or how do you check which pin to splice?
And also what size wire did you use for the splicing in the driver and passenger pillars
Pins and wire color are the same for 2014-2018(maybe 2019 too). The amp wiring kit he ordered came with 14g I believe for the speaker wire which is what we used to splice with. But you can use smaller gauge since all this is for is sending the signal to the line out converter.
No need to splice or use Posi-taps, just get the correct harness for behind the radio and save damaging your factory wiring.
Diacom where can I get this harness. All I find are ones for the bose radio which I do not have
@@dylanhenkins2094 lljcustoms.com seems to have the harness set up for most radio types.
I am confused on the remote turn on wire tap location to the truck. Did you disconnect it from the 10Amb #2 fuse slot location on the drivers side dash? If so, where did you relocate it?
How do you plug in the power wire
I’m Confused from my civic days but do you need a aftermarket stereo or this for stock 7 inch display???
You dont need the line out put convertor if you have a aftermarket deck.
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
I wish you would of said which subwoofer it is …… they make a few shallow mount subs
You pulled the signal wires from your back speakers. If I’m putting in two channel sub amp, along with four channel speaker amp, would I use the same signal wires for the subwoofers and back speakers?
Yes. But if you’re going to be pulling signals from all 4 doors to a 4 channel amp it would probably be better to pull the head unit so you can get all 4 signals in the same place.
How did you make it work without pulling out the screen and the radio unit
Great video,big help for me.gonna attempt this job on my 15 chevy 2500.
Those taps make it some much easier
This work whit Bose systems?
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
Thank you!
I have a 2014 Silverado single cab with the ;” screen no bose! Which speakers would I have to tap in the wires into?
You can tap into the front speakers. From what I hear the front speakers actually have a better bass signal. Not sure about the wire colors. You’ll have to do some research or pull the panels off and see what colors are running to the speakers.
MOREE GARAGE the front speakers , like the ones that are located on the dashboard ??
You would likely have to access these behind the head unit
If I do it with the front would make the sound of the turn signals
I’m having the same problem with my amp staying on I ran all my wires and have a simple speaker wire to rca. Not a line output converter, and have stock gm head unit. After I shut my truck of the amp stays on until rca’s are unplugged. It’s a 09 ext can Silverado. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Little Joe Outdoors that’s really strange. RCAs should have nothing to do with the amp being on or off. Those are strictly to get an audio signal. First thing I would do is make sure you’re remote turn on wire is in a good fuse location or tapped into the appropriate wire that allows it to turn off when the truck turns off. If you’re positive that’s good get a line output converter. I’ve always used them to get my high output signal to a low input signal. They’re cheap and work great. Good luck!
I have a 2019 Trail Boss. I'm looking for the remote wire to hook up my under seat amp/woofer. All I'm lacking is the remote wire. Can you help?
Wired everything the way you did and my subs barely move and produce very little sound. I'm not sure if its because my truck came with the Bose system. Or if it's my loc(I used a cheap loc).
I have yet to get a ohm meter to test for good power and ground. If anyone has had this problem, send help😂
Mannnn this video really helped! Thank you!
I had a problem where I do not have power turning on the amp any suggestions on what’s going on
Only thing to do is go back over your wiring. 1) do you have a good ground. 2) is the remote turn on in a good fuse location or wired in somewhere correctly. If these two are good the amp should turn on
I used a old oil dipstick to fish the power wire through the firewall, worked pretty good! Can confirm
Remove the factory long antenna works great with some electrical tape.
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
I have the same truck and was wondering the same thing
Does your truck rattle under the truck under the back seats? My 2016 rattles like crazy everytime the bass hits and it’s frustrating cause idk what it’s coming from
How much would a job like this cost 2014 silverado
Thanks bro. You saved me $200.
Glad it helped homie!
Do you remember which kit you went with?
Don’t remember the exact one but this is very similar. a.co/d/59SOsYK
@@JordanMoree Kool thanks bro
Wonder ideas for a wooden backboard behind the seat? Just remove the liner out of the way.
did the bottom of your seats lock with the box underneath?
It’s been a while but I’m pretty certain they did.
I have a 0 gage wire to run, how hard was it to to cut that hole?
0 gauge would be a pain in the but to run through that grommet. I’d drill a hole and add your own grommet in the firewall.
Did this install method also amplify the door chimes? Seems that using a LOC often also makes the door chimes extremely loud as well
I’ve never noticed it
I have followed your video to the tee but nothing has worked sunwise for me my amp gets power but I get no bass out of my sub swapped amps same issue
If the amp is definitely getting power then it’s a signal issue. Check your connections in the pillars, check the LOC, check the wiring of sub inside the box.
Thanks guys I have went over everything I've deemed either my signal is bad awaiting better connectors from amazon or the loc is bad again thanks for the amazing tutorial y'all have nailed it I just subscribed
So you didn’t had to do anything towards the factory touch screen radio? I have a 2018 Chevy as well and I’m thinking about installing an amp and subwoofers. Is it as easy as just connecting a wire to the back door speaker wires?
No you don’t ever have to touch the head unit. To sum the wiring up you need: Power wire, ground wire, remote turn on wire, and signal wires. Your signal wires run to one end of the line out converter and from the other end you run your RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp.
MOREE GARAGE okay sounds good. Only thing is that my truck doesn’t have the remote start function so I would just skip that part right?
Remote start has nothing to do with it. It’s a remote turn on for the amp so it doesn’t stay on all the time and drain your battery. You HAVE to have this. It allows the amp to turn on when the ignition is turned on and turn off when you kill the truck. Remote start is a completely different thing.
MOREE GARAGE ahhhh okay that makes perfect sense. My bad. By any chance where did you get those posi taps that you use for the door speaker wires?
Amazon
This is almost exactly how I'm doing my install but I can't seem to find which wires are for the speaker for a 2014 HD3500. Any idea?
where did you get that box? or did you make it? also, I have two 12" kicker cvx. will the magnets be too big for any box for my 2018 silverado?
After my install my 2014 gmc 1500 the alternator spikes and puts amp in protection mode? Anyone have this problem?
the only time I remove everything when I installed my AR safe. for speakers hell no. Great Video
which add a fuse did you use? I have bought two different ones and they both dont fit the micro fuse slots
did you ever figure it out?
looking for the same thing right now
@@jon-philipa5675 No. I ended up using an existing fuse
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system.
Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3)
LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up)
Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc)
that should really be it.
@@cavdrkz24 do you need to add those extra fuses if you aren’t doing the remote turn on ?
Did that bypass the factory bose amp or did he not have the bose system?
Ghost Face this was for the non-Bose system.
Where did you get the box and everything to hook it up????
Do I still have to tap into the left and right wire sets if I’m only installing one sub? Could I just go to behind the head unit?
did u ever find the answer?
wondering the same thing
The signal needs to be "summed". Think about it. Your radio plays in stereo not mono.
When sitting in the car/truck ever notice guitar and cymbals may play on one side and the vocals are on the other side of the vehicle. This might be done for clarity. You notice it more with live concert recordings. The crowd cheering and whistling come out of your rear speakers. Van Halen cd's are a great example of this. I think its how it was remastered.. Anyway, grabbing a signal from on only one side either L or R you may run into this reduced sound or signal as the song plays. It's just not going to sound right.