How to Install Dual Kitchen Sink Drain Plumbing Pipes
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- In this video we show you How to Install Dual Kitchen Sink Drain Plumbing Pipes under kitchen sinks. Dual kitchen sink plumbing can be quite tricky and you have to be careful with dual sink kitchen plumbing to install it properly without preventing the water from draining efficiently. So, if your dual kitchen sink won't drain, it could be the design and installation of your DIY kitchen sink plumbing installation. We also show you kitchen sink plumbing diagrams to aid you with your plumbing installation.
Is there a dual kitchen sink drain kit for dual kitchen sink plumbing? We find there is no one size fits all, and you can see how we cut up all the pieces here to size, as each situation will be different for your kitchen sink plumbing, mostly depending on where the waste drain pipe comes out of the wall. Good luck with your kitchen sink plumbing installation.
✅ Kitchen sink drain tools/pipes in this leaking p trap plumbing tips video:
🛒 Superior Tool 3-Way Sink Drain Wrench: amzn.to/2XozbZp
🛒 Nibco 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Wye Fitting: homedepot.sjv....
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✅ Kitchen sink drain tools/pipes in this leaking p trap plumbing tips video:
🛒 Superior Tool 3-Way Sink Drain Wrench: amzn.to/2XozbZp
🛒 Nibco 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Wye Fitting: homedepot.sjv.io/P1WbX
A lot of those t's have a baffle in them that just plug up right away when you use the garbage disposal.
@@DamnWelfareBums Luckily we avoided using any baffled T connections, using instead just the P-traps going into the Wye connector.
jeffostroff Yeah I like the way you did it.
@@DamnWelfareBums Exactly. I have had two near disasters due to those connectors having that baffle. It really restricts the water flow and if things like potato and carrot peels will get caught there and really back things up. I have thought about re-plumbing my system exactly as you have done to give the disposal its own trap.
Y
This is the right way to do the job. The guys who renovated my kitchen hooked it up as you drew in the first drawing. When you turn on the disposal, it pushes water out of the drain in the other side of the sink! I told them to fix it, and they hooked it up the same wrong way. So I did it myself. Thanks for the video.
Glad to help Stan!
Can't put a tee on its side
This is exactly how I plumbed my new sink with the garbage disposal. I haven't had a clog or back-up since. Thanks for posting. Now I feel better about my choice
Great minds think alike!
thank you, thank you......years of shared waste water and shared smells at my kitchen sink solved in one Saturday work session.
Awesome, glad to help out
Hey Jeff...I love your music. You playing the piano is beautiful. You are showing you are well versed and cultured like a beautiful pearl. 🌸
Thanks for listening Terina!
This is the best video I've seen to explain in detail what SHOULD be done. I've had nasty water coming up into the other sink so now I know what the remedy is. Thank you so much!
My friend, your video is EXACTLY what I need. My garbage disposal always, I mean ALWAYS "throws up" into the other sink! Going to implement this solution soonest. Thank you, thank you, thank you soooooooooooo much!!
Another thing you can look into also when one side of the sink is backing up into the other sink, make sure that your line is clean all the way down to the sewer system. So we have another video that I uploaded about aklog we had similar to this in our kitchen, in my snake only goes 20 feet but we had to call the plumber with sectional snakes that could reach further down the line into the sewer system and they found some clogging there had a curd and so this can make the water slow to drain out of the sink and it sometimes will back up into the other one. You might be ready to have your lines cleaned.
@@jeffostroff I’ll see if this works, if not I’ll have a plumber clean out my line. Thanks again for the follow up!!
Well I completed my Y-drain with dual p-traps and it worked like a charm, NO back flow from the disposal to the other sink!! One thing I learned was the need for using DWV trap adapters to go from 1-1/4 to standard sink p-trap hardware. But it all works!!! Thanks again for your awesome video and help!!!!!
@@snoodle877 Glad you gave an update. I have the same problem. Looks easy enough. Think I'll tackle it myself. 🤞🏼
I'm changing out my sink to dual sinks also and found this idea of double P traps to be interesting. I decided to make sure this idea was a good way to go and was surprised to learn that it's not for a couple of reasons. One problem that can occur with a double trapped setup is if a large volume of water is released down both drains it may carry enough pressure to pull the water out of the traps which means sewer gases may be allowed into the house. Another problem is double traps cause drainage issues because air becomes trapped between the two traps, and air is lighter than water. That causes the air to travel up as the water flows down, resulting in no drainage. Also in some areas, using two traps is not up to code and the water draining from one sink can impair the trap seal on the other so check your building codes.
One thing I'd like to suggest to those who plan on using this method is when you insert the tubes into the wye, make sure one doesn't butt up to the other. I looked at the idea at Lowes and noticed the wye doesn't have a stopper in them so allow about 1/16-1/8 inch of the tube from the sink to go past the 2nd entrance of the wye. That will stop the tube from the wye from blocking it.
After all I read and learned from plumbers shopping at Lowe's, I'll pass on this idea but good luck to those who don't. Peace out.
Thanks to you I was able to do my kitchen sink just like yours. Thank you for taking your time to show us how to do it right
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching Fabian!
this is best video i have found explaining the set up. thank you so much for the detail.
Glad it was helpful!
Just bought a new sink and adding a garbage disposal. I was initially going to have the horizontal line from garbage disposal go to the single P trap, but I think this method changed my mind. I'll be doing this soon. Thank you!
Awesome seth!
I came here seeking knowledge and it was most definitely obtained, your voice drew me in to the video as well you have a very Charlie Sheen accent that definitely kept my attention the whole time oh, thank you for the great video I'm not a plumber but I find it interesting and I'm doing my own work to my own house, I hired a plumber to come in and do just what you did and he was wanting to charge me $400 and it's a job that I can do for under a hundred bucks so thank you again
Glad to help out I have actually had a few other people tell me I sounds like Charlie Sheen also.
Aha!
This is the video what I am searching for.
Thanks for teach me step by step kindly and clearly...
Glad it was helpful!
your video makes a lot of sense! Very neat and smooth looking pipes
thanks nannette
Your kitchen turned out AMAZING🥰
Thank you!! 😊 It was a lot of work
I'm not real computer savvy either. But I can play your dial sink plumbing video. Thank you again
Your a freaken life safer. Friday afternoon and I want to get off early.
Forgot you are Ace. thanks so much.
Happy to help tom!
I really like you idea using the y connector so you have to separate drains. In my case I used a trap that had a y connector built into it. Two separate drains connected to a y trap.
This was very good except going offscreen at the parts I need most.
Hey bro, just thanking your for this video as it was a success for me!
Wow! Well Done! Thanks for sharing!
I like the way you plumbed the system, but what I like more than that is the back of the cabinet is open to the wall. When the lower cabinets have an enclosed back, if there is a leak in the wall, you don't catch it before major damage occurs, as water plumbing can be from bathrooms being located in an adjacent wall. I hope you have open backs in all of the cabinets. It's easier to finish the walls nicely as the rest of the room.
I always request that my cabinet company gives me a vanity without the back on it
Thanks for sharing your knowledge !... fantastic vid !
Glad you liked it!
It's all wrong. This knowledge will cause you issues. Do not plumb your sink this way!
I thought you were going to drain both at once? That's what I was waiting for. Three questions: (1) how does it change for vertical drains? (2) How do you admit air in a vertical drain, and (3) should you use larger pipe for the traps to maximize flow?
For a vertical drain you want to continue the line all the way up to the top of the cabinet and use a mechanic air vent. 2 in is code for a kitchen sink in my area but every 1 1/2 is still very common. Personally you don't need two traps an arm over into a vertical tee then a trap is the right way to do it.
Thank you for the wye idea !
Any time!
You can put a santee on the disposer outlet facing lady sink and plumb in one pipe to the drain.
Only if it is in the vertical position
wow! This is the setup i am looking for. Our double sink is configured like the 1st drawing you did, and hell it does clog up yearly. Hope you dont mind me showing the photo of your setup to the plumber we will hire to fix our sink. Happy thanksgiving to you and your family 😄
Glad I could help!
Nice work !
very helpful
Glad it helped
Great video. Thank you for posting!
You bet Shaine, glad to help out.
Love this video. Best one explanation thus far. Can you tell me why we don’t want a siphon ?
both of the p-traps are supposed to have water in them at all times to prevent sewer gases from coming up. If one of those were to self siphon in the water disappears out of there now sewer gases will come up into your house through the drain
Yes I have sink water backup with one pipe hooked up to both drain
You may have a developing clog down the waste line somewhere. We just had to snake ours out a few months ago, found cereal in the waste line 30 feet down line, bunched into a 90 degree turn in the line.
Awesome tutorial.
I got a double sink to install the piping but it’s a vertical drain into the floor. You said something about a seen-a-tee ???
Can you please elaborate.
Thanks
The reason there is so much water in your P trap is because you didn't put a slope on the pipe going to the main drain... You also should have in a put a vent pipe... judging by how slow the water drains in your sink you need a vent pipe in that sink to prevent clogs and slow draining issues.
I been watching a few other videos and they always put a slope using a level. I was surprised he didn’t do that. When I saw to amount of water in that p-trap, I knew he messed up.
Thanks for sharing. New subscriber. 👌
Awesome, thank you! Glad to help!
Twice as much work using 2-P Traps, good for Paid Installers, NG for DIY
P-traps are $2.50, Don't be such a drama queen.
Thank you so much for this video I was going crazy trying to figure out how to install or fix my connection. very helpful and saves a lot of time and money
thanks again
Jeff, a plummer left my house took my garbage disposal and never returned leaving my plumbing undone after working for two days. I intend to try to plumb my kitchen sink following your video instructions. I bought a new garbage disposal and there is two p traps and where you show only one line leading into the wall...mine has two, one into the wall connecting to one in the floor under the sink. Can you help me? I took a picture for you. Just now figured out how to comment to you. Thank you running blind 57 😰
I tried to put it back together with what he left here but it's not right because my sinks fill up, both of them, my dishwasher fills up and my washer line spills out into floor our is drain line in laundry room. Nasty foul smelling water is flowing when I do laundry or dishes. The double p traps o
Under the sink is all wrong. I guess the plummer left knowing there is a real problem here.
Two p-traps on one fixture is a no-no. One trap can siphon the other and cause issues. This is why you can't even have traps too close together. I've seen a washing machine trap siphon out the toilet trap. Not enough piping in between and the washing machine would siphon out the toilet whenever it drained and the toilet wouldn't flush properly (not to mention the sewer gases now could enter the house). One trap per fixture is code, that's all you need, don't overthink it because you're just making things worse.
They cannot siphon from one another when using a Wye like we did. You are allowed one trap per fixture, and each sink counts as one fixture.
@@jeffostroff I'm not sure a Wye can be on its side and function properly. I'm pretty sure a Wye has to be vertical to function properly.
I agree It can cause a siphon doing it this way. It might not cause an issue in every case but I don't think it's a better way to run a drain and it wouldn't pass Code
If syphoning would occur, you could add an air admittance valve. I am certain this system will work. My current system with one P-trap backs up to the other sink all the time. Great video. I’m going to do this. 🤘
@@theflyingdutchman787 Doesn't matter if it'll work or not, it's against code.
It sounds like your sink is backing up because of a blockage, probably in the existing p-trap assembly. Taking it apart, cleaning out the p-trap assembly and snaking the line would fix that. Adding a 2nd trap won't fix that. It'll just add another blockage point especially since you'd also be introducing a potential siphoning issue and then you'll have even more problems. Don't do this.
You can do a center waste on a sink with 2 basket stainers (without garbage disposal) without any issues. However center waste with a disposal doesn't work too well because food and waste gets caught on the diverters inside of the center waste tee and clogs up. Also not a fan of wet/dry glue used under a sink. It's messy most of the time. Clear primer is what I use with clear glue. Most of time inspectors won't say anything about it because it's visible plumbing. But they will fail you if you don't use purple on the underground.
That's wye we use the wye.
Un purple primer is what we use in my area. The primer can been seen in the sun light or with a UV light and it doesn't make a mess.
Clear primer is an instant fail in most areas in the states. Can't use it at all. The only time you can get away with using it is under sinks for making the final drain connections as at that point the inspections are over with. Only use clear primer if you know your work is not going to need to be inspected or learn how to use purple primer without making a mess, it's really not that hard.
The only I did not see you do - was, after you chop-sawed off the single pipe coming out of the wall - before gluing on the wye, you should have internally deburred the single pipe coming out of the wall. Without deburring, there is a small ridge of residue pvc left over after you sawed off the pipe. This small ridge/residue left in the pipe will cause a restriction in the flow of water
Using your guidelines, should I cut the pipe that goes into the floor, remove the T or just cut off the elbow he glued to the T? But how can I add the Y? Should I cut the elbow off with enough pipe to just add the Y then do as you have done? Thank you for all your interesting videos...I can't afford another plummer to come out and leave me hanging again. But ..I need all the help you can give me. 😊
Can you send me photos of what you got to my Facebook page, just message me there
@@jeffostroff which one is yours Jeff?
The first drawing you did is known as a continuous waste . That is against Wisconsin state plumbing code when hooking a disposal on one side of the sink , as well as it should be . Also a cleanout fitting should be provided in the drain line .
The issue I learnt with that was that the traps are connected before the vent so if you fill one sink and empty it you might siphon the other trap, up here we cant do that but states differ
Your def right, but his drain Is either clogged or backfalling, not much syphon action will happen here lol
I agree, this arrangement does not meet code in VA. I wish Jeff would have filled the right sink, then "let it all go" and let us watch what would have happened in the left (translucent) P-trap. I think there's a chance it might have been siphoned out by the water draining out of the right sink, rushing past the Y. Our dual sink originally had a single trap after the Y, now has two traps before a Y that includes a vent right in the Y.
Thank you so much for making this video. This is exactly the issue i'm having in my kitchen. I do have a question, what is the purpose of the pea trap? I may be spelling it incorrectly. Can i just run a straight pipe to the Y connection with two elbows?
The P-trap is required by plumbing codes. The U-shaped part of the trap traps a columns of water that covers the entire U-shape, so there is always water in it. the purpose of this is to keep sewer gasses from coming up inside your house through the drain.
He explains it in more detail at minute 15:50.
@jeffostroff side note, when testing for leaks, always use Luke warm/ room temp water. Using to hot or too cold of water can condensate and give the illusion of leaks. Luke warm will 100% of the time not give you those situations
Good suggestion. I have never had a condensation problem though, temp is usually 75 and cold water is not that cold, hot water has not made these pipes sweat.
I use extremely hot water always because if there's any Grease or sludge in the pipe that you didn't fix or change it will melt it away and less likely to create a clog. Also I use dish soap as well if you ever have an issue it hasn't degreasers in it
I have that same setup and had to change because when using the sink side with disposal the water would sometimes come up on other side. So now I only have one trap
this should work, maybe you have a blockage down the sewer line
When I renovated my kitchen 12 years ago, I came up with the same double P trap design. Prior to that was a T connection to single P trap. Everytime the garbage disposal was running, it pushed the dirty water up the other sink.
Now with the double P trap, no more dirty water pushed up on the non garbage disposal sink. For those who say it has enough vacuum to pull water out of the non draining P trap, unless you are draining a bathtub on one of the sink, I don't think it has enough vacuum to do so. Someone builds a CLEAR PVC P TRAP pipe and posts the video to proof it. If you are really concern about the vacuum, just wash your hand on the other sink, that will be enough water to fill the P trap.
Why didn't you fill both basins up to see if there would be any battle in drainage?
Water doesn't care about the shape of the pipes. It's all about the LEVEL, governed by gravity, and the pressure. THIS is the only video showing the USE of TWO TRAPS. It would be helpful if you SHOWED the TOP view from the sink drains with different scenarios, like if running the disposal causes water to come up the other drain or not. Thanks.
Thank you. Everything is well explained, but I did not know that, the kit for garbage disposer that I was planing to replace, does not work for the sink drain with no garbage disposer. After such long time of thinking, I called my nephew wand He said: you have to buy an especial kit that is not for garbage disposal
About pee trip whit drain!! 😎👍🍺
Thanks for the video. Please show all steps. You stopped the video when placing the pipes.
Hi! Great video. This is exactly what I want to do with my dual sink. I was wondering if you could add a parts list. I see two p-traps, one wye, and... looks like 2 threaded 1 1/2" adapters to connect the ends of the p-traps to the wye, plus Oatley Rain-R-Shine PVC cement and a pipe cutter.
So my real question is: What threaded adapters are you using to screw the ends of the p-traps to the wye?
Hi - thanks Jeff - I’m thinking about using this configuration too for my dual basin kitchen sink. Did the parallel P-trap and siphoning issue ever get resolved? So 2 sinks side-by-side count as 2 “fixtures” and your Not violating code? And have you experienced any siphoning problems using the “Y”? If you were using two transparent p-traps it would seem you could observe firsthand and could prove whether siphoning is occurring or not. Thanks!
We tested this thing thoroughly and had no siphoning problems
@jeffostroff the very first one you don't like, in the event you'd want it like that, you wasnt to go from basket strainer to ptrap, p traps will go towards the center into a double fixture wye with street 45s picking up the p traps, off the center hole(top hole) of the double fixture wye you will put in a street adapter with female threads to now make it a cleanout. It's plumbed in that way to avoid pulling the p traps with clogs and using the cleanout. While your cabling you can run water without making a mess
They have been doing away with those clean outs because often times there is a clog that has water backed up so when you try to unscrew the cap water floods everywhere.
I could be wrong, and correct me please, but doesnt plumbing code say only 1 p trap per trap arm? This method is putting 2 p traps on 1 arm. Not saying this wont work or drain since that's all slope related
It's definitely not code compliant to have two traps on one arm because it allows siphonage to occur.
Also, INSPECT YOUR P-TRAP PIECES BEFORE INSTALLATION - ESPECIALLY THAT LIP - I had one where it just kept leaking leaking leaking, tighten it down some more, then leak, take it off, do it again, leak leak leak - it turns out the lip had a small imperfection that was hard to see but if you ran your finger over it you could find it. Replaced that part and finally no leaks!
I have almost the exact connection and the sink without the disposal continuously backs up, especially when running the disposal. Only the sink without the disposal backs up, why is that and any ideas to fix?
This will happen if the output tube of your garbage disposal is LOWER than the P-trap output that goes into the wall drain pipe. Is this the case for you? this sometimes happens on remodels where people switch to a deeper sink, that now pushes the garbage disposal lower, so now it's lie it is trying to send water uphill.
Jeff, do you recall where those trap reducers are purchased from? Looks like "103R" from what I can see. The Nibco unit appears to be just the Wye but neither Lowes nor Home Depot apparently know where those P-trap reducers came from. Thanks!
Not sure what you mean by trap reducers, you're not allowed to reduce the diameter of your pipe so we would not be using anything that is a reducer. Perhaps there's a part on the set up there that is an optical illusion and has you thinking it is a reducer.
Should have the disposal connected over to the left drain with a specific connecter and then the pee trap leading to the drain.
Yes you can do it that way, the problem is most people implement that method wrong, because they don't slope the horizontal pipe to the P-trap downward. This is not a case of it should have been done your way. Either way is fine.
I am having a couple problems. First, I definitely want to use this double trap system, but I'd previously plumbed under my sink with 2" sched 40 pipe, with a slip joint to connect to the 1 1/2" disposal discharge pipe and the 1 1/2" downtube from the opposite sink. I attached the pipe to the sewer pipe in the rear wall with a rubber coupling with clamps. My problem is, that as illustrated in your example, I'd like to be able to undo the p trap from the upper elbow to have a straight shot if the drain ever needs a clean out.
However, I've found it impossible to find a 2" P trap that has two slip fittings. They come with a slip/compression joint between the two pieces of the trap, but the ends are both bare. And not only that, while I can find 2" male threaded adaptors, they don't appear to include the gasket and nut to to create a compression fit. Any suggestions?
My second issue is that my old disposal was so old the mounting fixture is held on with a thin round screw that is round except for two flat spots. To get this off would require a thin wrench with a 5 inch opening. I've found it impossible for find one of these as well.
Any advice would be appreciated, as is this video. I always thought it was odd to run either the sink or the disposal into a tee, as that would seem to invite clogs.
What you can do is buy a trap adapter Is to cement onto the streetline coming out of the wall. You would get a trap adapter that is 2" on one side and 1 and a 1/2 inches on the other side on the other side that where your petrap pipe can be pulled out of that trap adapter anytime you want. It sounds like you need to get a screw extractor take a look at this kit from home depot
Ontel Speed Out Speed Out Cobalt Extractor (4-Piece)
www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Cobalt-Extractor-4-Piece-1000369/207096720
SKU# 207096720
We installed a double farmhouse sink with garbage disposal. The plumbing is now off not only from the wall but the p trap is 3 to 4" lower. Would this fix that problem? So I just need to cut off the existing pipe a little from the wall, add the Y. My current is all pvc with "threads" so with this method a portion of this would be cemented or glued and the Ptrap would screw in? Does it matter or affect the drainage of water if the P trap is about an inch lower? Thank you for your help.
What matters most is the ep-trap output must be below the output of the garbage disposal, otherwise water will back up into the garbage disposal. So just make sure the pipe going into the wall is lower than the output of the garbage disposal. you might also consider the standard method on this home depot page, look at the photo with the garbage disposal homedepot.sjv.io/63DyG
@@jeffostroff Thank you for responding...new subscriber. Very Simple the way you laid things out. Does the Wye come with threads and did you have to use male and female 1 1/2 in DWV trap adapter?
@@turtle_entertainment4112 watch video where you see the wye has a slip connection the we cemented the hub adapter into. The Male part of hum adapter cements into it. Then the P drop just gets inserted as a slip connection into that hub adapter
When remodeling is this a decent place one could use a tee coming out before installing the Wye. With the loss of venting from remodeling (later project) an Oatey vent could be placed upward from the Tee only adding an inch to the level (if it would matter, for me maybe) of the connections to the sinks?
If you have venting already in the wall, you don't need the Oatey vent. We typically use those on island sinks.
What parts did you use on the wye? I couldnt find the right pieces to connect the pipe.
That I believe is this part: 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Trap Adapter, this is slip fit on one side, it glues into the Wye, and male threaded on the other side, so the p-trap arm threads onto it. There are 2 of these used. www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Trap-Adapter-C480127HD112/100347086
how can you hook up two sinks having them both drain into a single garbage disposal?
Where can I pick up the 1 1/2 inch wye? Been to a few hardware stores, can't find it. can you provide a link? Thanks.
Angel this is the part we used, available at Home Depot stores: www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-H-x-H-x-H-Wye-C4810HD112/100678018
@@jeffostroff I saw that but it did not have treads. was there additional parts added to the wye?
Sir your content is great and learned quite a bit but how can I make a video of my set up and show you my situation? I recently got a bigger garbage disposal and my dishwasher has shut off and back up with water. I have been trying like crazy to get the right piping so this won’t happen. I saw lots of comments here but wanted to personally reach out. Thx for any help
Did you punch out the dishwasher plastic punch-out on the side of the garbage disposal? Everyone forgets to do this and water backs up into the dishwasher.
jeffostroff let me check lol but the dishwasher worked fine before kinda, it still backed up water in the sink but now that the new garbage disposal is in it just floods out and shuts off but let me check that really quick. Thank you for the reply back sir.
jeffostroff bro you are a lifesaver!!! I just knocked out the plug and I have no issues now! Thanks again and I’m already subscribed to your channel for more tips! #lifesaver!!!!
@@IronMayne yes! I knew that had to be the problem. They warn you about it In the install manual for the dishwashers
Excellent video, but I do recommend going to your channel to watch more videosbecause UA-cam has butchered your presentation with run on AD that doesn't even interest your target audience.
You can skip ads after 5 seconds, that's what I do when watching UA-cam videos
We bought deeper stainless steel sinks in the kitchen. We had new granite counters installed and that's why we decided to get new sinks. My husband is trying to plumb it all so he has to go a little lower. He's struggling to figure out how to plumb it all. Can you make any recommendations? The dish washer is to the left of the sick and the garbage disposal is on the left. Thanks!
Search our other videos on installing dishwasher and you'll see what to do.
What you do is you use a center waist tee or end waste it just depends on how much room you got
The joint that connects the two halves of the trap is known as a VGJ or visible ground joint . There has also been some very shoddy work done in the process of remodeling the piping for the sink drain. There should be absolutely no water left in the horizontal pipe that goes to the wall. There isn't a jurisdiction in in the U.S.A. where that quality or lack of workmanship would pass a plumbing inspection. I only hope the person who lives in that house knows what kind of work was done. ( 55 year retired plumber )
what can you do to create the slope toward the wall when the waste line out of the wall is horizontal?
@@jeffostroff go back in time and tell the builder to do it right. It could be because of crud in the line?
@@sal.pizzurro I'm working on a time machine invention and plan to spend about 3 months back in time chewing out several builders: "what were you thinking"?
I’ve got the same problem, a horizontal pipe. The old three way connection rusted out from the bottom from end to end. Now replacing it with PVC. but still will have water sit, wishing o could creat an angle without moving the house.
@@jeffostroff Is there anything practical that can be done to remedy the slope? We have this problem plus dishwasher waste plumbed into disposal pressurizes the drains when sinks are full. Causes joints to flex and perpetual leaks flooding electrical box.
I have a dual sink with disposal, also a drain line from a bathroom running in the kitchen. Can you give me a diagram for connection.
Great video.
I have been trying to shop for that WYE fitting but not having much luck.
Is there a better description or if you can tell me where to buy one?
Thanks for your educational video.
This is going to be my holiday project, as I am also changing out my garbage disposer and installing a new GE 1/2 HP unit GFC525N.
Here is the link to it: homedepot.sjv.io/P1WbX Nibco 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Wye Fitting
@@jeffostroff Thanks Jeff. I was actually looking for a screwed connection Wye fitting, which I could not find. Later, I realized that the Wye fitting has to have the screwed ends glued on separately.
You can see him gluing on screw ends at minute 5:14.
Mine is straight across and I think it is the reason I have stinky, musty smelling, drains. I assume that stagnant water sits there.
I remember a home I was in where if you pulled the drain on one side then dirty water came up the other side. Now I know why that was happening.
How long should the pipe be going into the Y piece? I think both of mine are two long which is causing back up issues in my sink.
Our state allows 6 feet from the trap output to the vent stack. So if you fit under the kitchen sink with your P-trap, you are fine there. If your water is backing up into the sink, I think your problem is either a clog down the line, or you don't have adequate venting. Your p-trap output arm should be slightly slanted down to the wall, 1/4" per foot to ensure water drains out. Also, check to make sure the P-trap output going to the wall is not higher than the P-trap input from the garbage disposal. If you can make a shorr video showing all the pipes under you sink, and post a link to it, that would help.
I have your same question. Right now the pipe on one ‘arm’ of my Y is so long that when you look through the other arm of the Y, all you see is white pipe. So the 2nd arm pipe only has a little access to actually drain (around the outer circumference of the opposite arm). This is how the previous homeowners have it. But I would think each side of the Y should have pipes only as long as their arm.
That’s the way mine currently is. Unfortunately when I dump a lot of water down the garbage disposal drain sewer gas comes out the other sink. Looking to get ride of the sewer gas smell.
Sounds like you have same problem we had at our house last summer, you like have a slight blockage further down the line in the street drain, so it causes it to back up the other sink because the street drain cannot drain the water fast enough. See our other video on this: ua-cam.com/video/fqnm4mwV33o/v-deo.html
JEFF WHAT HAPPENED???? According to the uniform plumbing code from ( The international association of Plumbing and Mechanical officials) section 1001.0 No more than 1 trap is permitted per trap arm ( Pipe coming out of wall.) & per plumbing fixture. This should help You & Your customer's.. From many more future failed inspections.
Alex, the way I read that, is they are saying "No more than 1 trap is permitted per trap arm", which means to me, that you cannot have one P-trap followed by another P-trap on the same P-trap arm, which is the output of the first P-trap. They don't want people to connect 2 P-traps in series, back to back. But I am connecting 2 P-trap arms to a waste line through a Wye adapter. It really boils down to the definition of P-trap arm, which is not the waste line. The P-trap arm is simply the curved piece of pipe coming from the P-trap.
Seems like doing that might have a siphon effect on one of the traps depending on which sides draining.
It cannot generate a siphon effect because you're going into a wye
@@jeffostroff I was thinking to do the same two p trap using wye. One for the kitchen sink drain and another for the washing machine drain. I am also curious to know if this will cause any siphon effect.
Thanks Jeff. Just subscribed. Great video. Is there any way you can guide or make video on various adapters to make different angle connection using 45,90, street, elbow and many are there.. I dont know what are various angles, elbow , adapters are there inorder for any one to make any connection from one angle to other angle. i know i asked it very simple but answer is going to be tough. anything wold help, please if u can
Welcome aboard! I did make another video showing how to line up the p-trap to the street pip using these other parts when it is not lined up properly, is this what you're looking for: ua-cam.com/video/b_OSgwpteR4/v-deo.html
@@jeffostroff Thanks Jeff, I watched that video, What I was looking is various adapters in plumbing pvc that help one to make connection from one angle to other angle. i dont even know how many adapter are there and when to use what. today i do this by trail and error running to home depot multiple times.
Question: what if I wanted to use only 1 P-trap? Currently my two drains connect into a Tee that leads to a single P-Trap. Could I use a wye or something else to connect them to a single P-Trap?
Thanks
Use that same method, 2 drains into the single P-trap, that is what most plumbers prefer. But also, on the long horizontal arm from the garbage disposal to the vertical drain tailpipe, make sure that horizontal pipe slopes downward toward the vertical drain pipe. Slop should be 1/4" drop per foot.
@@jeffostroff That makes sense to have a slope, but what about the fact that the tee and bend are 90 degree right angles? Do you just force it into the tee? Why can't some sort of wye connector be used instead of a tee?
@@winfidel yes, I tend to force it a little into a downward slope, you can help that along by adjusting the cut on the downward end of that horizontal pipe so that it will be sloped.
I hope you used the tee and not this stupid ass double trap idea... This is stupid and all wrong..... He's acting like he's gonna put a snake down a disposal... Lmao
wouldn't this blow out the water in the disposal side pea trap and let gasses back into house?
No, 2 reasons why this would not happen. 1) Inertia of water sends water through the P-trap and out into the waste pipe into the wall, and downslope of waste line keep water moving forward, not backwards. 2) Water goes through a WYE fitting, so back flow would be difficult. Even if water could back flow into the garbage disposal side P-trap, there would be no gases, because the whole reason for a p-trap is the constant seal of water that sits in that curved part of the trap that protects the house from sewer gasses.
Do you know if a moen disposal would fit on an insinkeratet sink flange for a fast swap out
I doubt that it would fit.
@@jeffostroff how tight should I tighten the sink mounting plate
Are you using cement or primer?
Jeffro,Whata Bruthu know.
Thanks for watching Robert!
Need help... I have 2 wall drains how do I hook up two sinks to the two wall drains
That's easy Ann, each sink gets its own P-trap into the closest wall drain to that sink drain.
Is there. Way to send you a picture I took? Under my kitchen sink?. I have dual sinks, garbage disposal, dishwasher, and obviously my washer is on there too. When I wash tr sinks fill up
You still have a confluence, it's just closer to the wall, I suppose the extra pipe in the assembly holds a little more water but... I still cannot justify paying for the additional p trap. I would not pipe it the way your initial diagram outlined but rather running both sinks DOWN into the same p trap via sani-t with the disposal being fed into the vertical stack and the sink angling over, down and across into the curved stack; then into the trap and out to the 2 inch main in the wall.
I believe that is textbook.
I prefer one larger sink
@@jeffostroff I hear you... I went with 2 because I do my dishes by hand and need a place to dry them. The other sink is perfect but it still needs a drain.
The line in the wall connects to the line that's in the floor with a T but the two p traps are on the same line, one attaches to disposal, and one attaches to the line that goes into wall and into floor with an elbow to the p trap. No wonder it's so crazy and won't drain right!
Does anyone know what the tool is he uses for tightening the screw fittings? It's the flat metal tool that looks like boomerang. Also what is your opinion for the commentor who says 2 Ptraps are a no no?
Than you would have more room for storage under your sink. It's rare that you have both sinks draining at one time. And the pipe in the wall the drain is 2" under the house so you should have no problem with drainage
I really prefer one big sink
Which pvc pipes did you use???
We used a 1 1/2" PVC Wye at the wall pipe, and used a 1 1/2 stub of PVC SCH40 to attach to the Wye and cement on a 1 1/2" P-trap adapter. The p-traps are all polyplastic.
You're supposed to clean/prime the surfaces and then hold the joint after joining them after the twist so that the curing joint doesn't force it apart. (Instructions are on the friggin' can!)
Actually you do not glue slip joint fittings
What if you’ve the same setup but wanna take off the garbage disposal
Just go straight down with the dran pipe then
can this work if the waste pipe is high?
The waste pipe should be lower than the horizontal output tube of the garbage disposal. If the waste line is higher than it, then you won't be able to drain water out of the P-trap exit and into the waste arm coming out of the wall. It will back up into your sink drain. A lot of people will report seeing this problem with they have this condition, and unfortunately happens a lot during remodeling. The only way to fix it is to cut into the drywall and lower the height of the waster pipe.
@@jeffostroff thank you so much!!
THIS IS COMPLETELY WRONG AND NOT TO CODE. SINK 1 WILL SIPHON TRAP AT SINK 2 AND CAUSE SEWER GAS TO ENTER THE HOUSE. LEAVE IT TO THE DIY'ERS TO TEACH YOU WRONG. You need to buy a continuous waste with a baffle tee for a double basin sink. You cannot have 2 traps on one waste arm.
Sorry bro you are wrong, we used a Wye, so this cannot siphon out the trap, and it has not failed once in the 3 years that this has been up and running. You need to learn what a Wye does and why they are so important. Too many people use a Tee instead of a Wye.
@@jeffostroff lol unfortunately that's not how that works
The international plumbing code does not allow for you to run 2 traps on one waste arm meaning the horizontal waste arm in the wall coming off the vent stack cannot have two separate traps.
@@jeffostroff plumbing is my profession in TX and I know how to use and when to use DWV fittings.
Why would having that vacuum effect be a bad thing if its leading to your sewage pipe outside?
Not sure what you are referring to by vacuum effect please clarify so I can answer effectively for you
If it's vented it won't be a problem
Yes this condo building is well vented, all units drain really good we tested many times with both sinks full of water.
Ok. So I guess you can't get a wye that will attach to the 2" pipe and 1.5" sink pipes