Good tutorial mate.... plus it's real and how most of us would do it at home.... not on a hoist, and NOT with every cool tool a boy could have either. Plus I love the little mis-haps like the filter falling and the comment of "Ahh maybe I should've held that with my other hand" 😂 cheers for your time and help for everyone.
your videos have inspired me to service my sisters partners old ford falcon 2008 model. been sitting outfront and ive been waiting for him to give me the car. i dont know how to service but your videos have helped me understand how to do it from home. thank you mate
Highly recommend this video. Transmission stopped working in reverse then a few days later stopped working altogether: move the lever, nothing, just an idling and revving engine but no drive. Did the fluid and filter as in this video. Used *exactly* 4L Transmax. I did this 5 months ago and it drives better than ever, so smooth!! The original fluid that came out was black. Big thanks and 👍 to Tangles for this video!
This is the Best! My BF MKIII (200,000) got this treatment today. I decided to do it cause the car seemed to slip when cold backing out of my garage (up hill) then driving away up my street again up hill. Now shifting smooth as butter. Love that you left the bloopers in too many laughs had mainly cause I did some of the same dumb shit even after multiple viewings. Although I did go the two hand route for the filter removal 😁. I need another rag is an understatement! Glad I saw one of the comments about needing a bigger breaker bar as that 16mm bolt was a bastard! Only took a little bit of bark off when she finally cracked. The brace wire was an ass hole to get back in too. My car took the full 4 litre bottle plus another 300ish ml that I picked up on the test drive. Interesting that my tray only has one magnet too. Thanks again man. You have the best B series videos I've seen.
@@tangles01 I own an au Falcon Ute and the top up filler bolt is 5/8th it fits perfectly. Naturally the better the fit the less likely it will round the bolt.
@@alexwillis7093 DSI was based in Scoresbey Victoria. Manufacturing plant in Aulbry NSW. In 2009 after bankruptcy it was bought by Geely. Who then sold it to Shuanglin in 2015. However they continued to produce tranmissions for Ford aus in aus until 2011. Their operations centre is still in Victoria.
@@tangles01 yes they were on Kaitlers road Springdale Heights not far from the BP truck stop, north of Albury NSW. They produced the Borg Warner 3speed automatic transmission and yes they folded, not sure of when, I believe it was much earlier than 2009
Long time since was uploaded but this info might help others for a stubborn or stripped filler plug head Shallow 6point socket and breaker bar normally will not fit in the gap between trans and tunnel without dropping the trans mount with the transmission still connected to engine and trans mount. Use a floor jack to lower slowly after removing the 4 trans mount bolts. First remove tailshaft 2x 10mm center bearing bolts - will tear center bearing bush if not done. Don’t jack/support off the trans pan obviously. Use the bell housing to support with a block of wood in between the jack and bell housing to prevent dinting/cracking bell housing/engine sump. . For a ridiculously tight 16mm filler plug you always try to use a long 6point hex ring spanner with no ring head offset (they arent a common spanner type to find). Don’t use a regular 12point offset ring spanner as the bolt head is too narrow and slips off thus stripping the plug head. Never ever use a open ended spanner, not a even snap-on one full stop. Being a past Ford mechanic I specifically use a long non slip12 point star spanner as they literally dig into the plug heads 6 faces. If the plug gave is too far gone to use any spanner on the last option (beside welding a nut to it ( that option hardly ever works - the weld snaps and so do your knuckles) Use a sharp chisel and hammer to remove plug. Make a small groove first for chisel to have a starting point (correct terminology - skirf) on the plug then hit the plug in a anti clockwise direction. Ive used this method many times for customers who have stripped their plug. Note - this isn’t easy todo the first time around especially when car is on the ground but it will work every time if done correctly. Hammering shocks the plug thread and applies several ton of force to it if you arent weak and have the car jacked up high enough for enough hammer swing 😂
Awsome video hardest part was jacking up the front to same height as the back on the ramps, used a cheap plastic stacking box for the oil and just a 2m clear tube with a funnel to fill it worked a treat. If I hadn't watched this I would of missed the last two steps and underfilled it for sure
What! No mosquitos on sunset to drive you indoors. Good to see someone else who starts draining oil only to lose 25% onto the driveway. Thanks for the video - it demystified what was going on under there.
This is a great tip, I no longer use my (cheap) garage creeper. I find it way more comfortable on thick, shiny cardboard and you can slide in and out really easy. Thumbs up 👍
Well yeah it goes along way especially with accurate description helps because like other videos are on here but not many were like as accurate as yours. It helps us with our Aussie made products but keep up the good job bro because I'm still doing some DIY stuff to my Falcon also and came across yours and it wil definately help me out. :)
Paul McGaw its not really a big or techical job. Bit more than an oil change. But hey if you're not confident then by all means have a pro do it for you.
One thing you should do is first push the bolts through the rubber seal on the pan as that holds all the bolts in place then hold the pan in place and start screwing up the bolts so simple 😊
I think everyone has, and that's why I show that, unlike some channels where everything is perfect every time. Can make a fuck up and get the job done right in the end, hopefully shows less confident people working on their cars you don't have to do it perfect all the time. Just as long as the end result is perfect.
Awesome video, although I found an easier way to refill. Feed a garden hose through the labyrinth of engine, put a funnel on the end you're filling from and the other end in the bung hole and you don't need to pump it in
Think about this fact...if you fit an aftermarket trans cooler and only drop the oil temp by a few degrees it will save your oil and transmission. Thanks for the pics mate
Thanks for the clear video, just picked up a 2004 BA Falcon with 144k on the odo (Super stoked with it), plan on doing a full service and have never done trans oil before so this helps a lot! :D
If its working fine, I would leave it, I did my BF at 165,000 and it started slipping and flaring, has not stopped, and it was a pro who did it. I am told it happens a lot.
@@tangles01 Not sure mate, but they were reputable pro mechanics. I had a google, and found they were telling the truth. Many transmission shops and mechanics make you sign a waiver if the car has done over 100,000 klms, as an auto service can stir things up and damage O rings etc...it is the same in USA. I wasn't aware of this and will never do it again on an older car with high klms. Best thing IMO is just make sure the fluid level is OK and leave it alone.
@@paulsimmons4987 There are cases where new fluid will cause more slipping, it's when the transmission has already worn out too much and the friction material in the fluid which has worn off id doing the work. There are more cases where it's been done wrong, using the wrong fluid, especially these boxes where dextron will destroy the box as they use different materials, hence the QT95 fluid specific for these types of boxes.
Tried today, but unfortunately couldn't get the refilling screw out. It is so tight. May be another time. Thanks for the video mate, job well done without this miss 😂😂😂👍
Nice video showed me what i need to do. Question for you ...I have fitted a Transmission cooler for my BA (PWR PW06115) and am planning to do this for the first time with cooler just installed...how much extra oil do you think would be required with cooler added ? ....thanks if you can answer or anyone else would be appreciated....Cheers
Good on ya mate I’ve got a BA V8 Fairlane 2003 long story short every 60,000 I flush the automatic as you’re doing here now it’s got 220,000 on it Last week was due for another flush so thought I would change the solenoids On eBay you can get the whole set of six Solenoids for 400 bucks and I gotta tell ya the car drives absolutely magic those transmissions are pretty good BUT you have to change the oil.......sealed for life is all bullshit There are videos on UA-cam how to drop the valve body to do the solenoids literally it’s for bolts and disconnect a few wires
Good idea on the calm shells for a bigger catch area, but it's 100% a 16mm metric bolt head. problem is most of them have been attached with 17mm by now rounding the edges. 5/8" might fit, but it's 16.
@tangles01 , thanks for the gerat vid. helped me heaps. just a question. i bought a 2005 Territory TX with 'slipping box'. Previous owner had it pulled and reconditions (Recondition torque converter). 4months later box slips/shudders again. i bought it, saw your vid, changed fluid and filter. Still seems to be slipping/shuddering!?! The old fluid had a bit of fine gray paste on magnets and tray, no real chunks or anything. Should i be buying a new box or should i flush the box? thanks
I'd say the box has probably had it and needs a rebuild. I don't think the previous owner did what they claimed. You could try a flush, I think chrisfix has a good vid on it? But odds are it needs to go to s transmission specialist, not a regular mechanic, as they will just give it to them and add a profit margin to the work.
Hey mate bit off topic I've got the milkshake in my radiator recently in my ba just wondering if it's possible to replace it with a 5.4 litre ba radiator I've been told it fits but not 100%about the AC fitments ,also would you recommend taking the punt on just getting the trans fully flushed and adding an external oil cooler I've been told it's a 50/50 chance I'll need a rebuild down the road anyway my cars only got 140 ks on clock so I'm hoping to keep it but not keen to if it will need that rebuild trans down the road sorry for the novel
It fully depends on how long the coolant has been in the box. If you caught it early, you might be okay. I'd look at the cost of a box vs the rebuild. And or the rebuild vs the flush, it might be short term quicker to flush but if the box might be 50/50 to be saved is it worth it or just better off getting the freshen up.
@@tangles01 thanks mate I'm even considering just scrapping the car by the time I get my licence back hopefully prices have settled down again am a bit over the old ba got a good few years
Technically they are a lifetime oil, but I'd recommend changing it by 150k. If it's a 4 speed auto it's the same as this. if it's a 6 speed it's the ZF BMW box. Different.
Yer not metal n seems pretty clean fluid after 150. Dirty job but nice to know its done i rekon. Mines 210 kms n gona do it. Pretty sure last owner didnt. Cheers
The level shouldn't change, once done, and the job shouldn't need doing for a few years, but if you had a drag car auto and that fluid is being swapped out, I could see the value.
Hey mate, thanks heaps for the video. Can I ask your opinion on something? I have an AU falcon, the transmission line in the radiator cracked so was leaking trans fluid in to the coolant and vica-versa. I changed out the radiator, and all the hoses. Then I serviced the transmission as per the above video, it was full of crap (coolant/oil mix) but other than that didn't seem to bad. Anyway she's still dropping gears a lot but it gets better as it gets hotter, and each gear seems to be working correctly (unless it drops out). My question is: Is my transmission cooked? or can I maybe get her working smooth by re-doing to the drain process to get the crap out? I also got the full 4 litres of oil in and it wasn't dripping so I don't want to buy more for top up if my transmission is dead. Lol. Again, cheers for the vids.
because you've had the coolant in the trans you'll need a full transmission flush immediately. Your stator will not drain from this type of service, only the free oil will come out. You'll have to take it to a trans specialist or some mechanics, ASAP i'm afraid, the longer you wait the more damage it will cause, because you still have the oil/coolant mix in the system.
@@noturaveragewatcher Nah I just flushed it again when it was hot, seems to work okay. Gearbox struggled a bit when I drove it up to kenilworth last week though lol. Car is junk so I was never going to replace more than the radiator. P.S. I reckon you need closer to 5 litres of fluid to fill these gearboxes.
you could try nipping up the bolts a little more, carefull not to strip them. if that doesn't work, you'll need to do it again, check the gasket surface for damage etc.
Thanks for making these videos. Did you replace or mod your transmission oil cooler ? I read that they fail in BA/BF, what are your thoughts on me biting the bullet and fitting an aftermarket cooler on my 08' Fairmont . Thanks
Depends on what your doing with the car if your driving it hard or towing or anyway tthay will kind of work the gearbox and heat up the oil then yes...if your just driving around town and cruising i wouldn't worry about it.
How many litres of oil did you put in, inter-webs says 4l, I have 4L, just got my pumperator 5000 from supershit auto so gonna fill her up tomorrow morning
Cheers mate thanks for this Vid, My question is if I haven’t done a trans service for 10 years would it still be Synthetic oil in there or is there a good chance that’s it’s mineral & I’ll need to do a complete flush ..
I'm not sure if the QT-95 for these transmission is synthetic, mineral or semi synth. All I know is it was developed with the gearbox as a joint venture. Any mineral or synthetic trans fluid that isn't this will cause sub optimal performance and accelerate wear. So there are a couple of options, wing it, just do this as a basic service and put the QT-95 in or, go the flush route. I'd probably go for the 1st option. and if something messes up, then take it to be flushed. Good odds it's got the right stuff in it already.
No idea, wrecking yard? I feel as long as the magnet is strong enough to not get sucked up, any magnet should do, or you could put them on the outside as well. I've seen that done on engine sumps.
Great video and I like the informal nature of everything you said very easy to understand.One question ,do the O Rings only come with the kit or can you buy them individually?
@@tangles01 Hey sorry to bother you again ,I wanted ask you if the bung hole where you refill the transmission fluid is stripped can it be fixed or should I just throw the whole box away,I been refilling mine for months and just discovered that when I last had the seal changed the Fitter must have stripped it inside after refilling ,there was thread tape around the bolt and it never really occurred to me until watching your video that's what had happened,and this is why I'm trying to help myself I'm just over being ripped off.
@@wayneo1269 Mate that sucks, the filler hols you say. 1st Question is why do you need to keep re filling it? It shouldn't be leaking or is it leaking from the filler hole itself? If it's some other leak, find that fix it and you should be able to make the filler seal in much the same way they did. You may be able to clean the treads up with the right size tap too, enough to make it workable, but it's cast aluminium so very soft and you'll need to be careful, also dunk the tap in grease to trap the cuttings from the tap if you do. There are a few less extreme options than just binning it, but need to know the details to be more helpful.
@@tangles01 I'm pretty sure the front seal popped again and that was my 4th time at the mechanic shop and I been pissed ever since,thee are no real auto specialists in our town.So I been in limbo ever since just topping the fluid up.I bought another second hand gearbox but can't trust anyone to put it in,but I've decided to take action and am just trying to work out which will be my next step,I only worked out today that the inside was stripped because my brother thought it was time he told me about it,he was topping her up for me.If I get another seal should I get the genuine seal or does it matter?Any advice is greatly appreciated mate.
@@tangles01 Thank you excellent Vid. You got it wright..you're TWINS!🤣 Car Trans weird noise in the cabin, 1st gear jerked (Radiator cracked) pink milkshake. Full flush (Collected 24 x 2ltr bottles). (500ml Nulon Pre-Strength Extreme Cooling System Flush & Degreaser). Removed thermostat & O-Ring for faster flow & the O-ring expanded (cut it to fit as temp until we ordered new one..bad move). New Radiator/ RYCO Trans Kit/Coolant (all hoses were fine). Gear box is running smooth (255,573km). Needs one more coolant flush as there are a few tiny oil flecks left. No garage/ off st parking. Worked on st. with a incline used ramps, car jacks, axel stands, timber, bricks to make it level so he could get under her. Next job is Power Steering, easy in comparison. I can't thank my bro enough.🚗
so how much oil in total went into the car? i did my xr6t just yesterday and dropped the pan, i didn't measure the amount out, and put about 3.8L back into the filler and left it at that. i didn't realise you had to do those steps afterward also. i might put it back over the pit when i get to work tomorrow and out the last of the bottle in. it seems to run great as is and gave it more life/torque. I used the penrite fully synthetic trans fluid.
3.8 litres went in on the 1st run, after running it through the gears et it ended up taking a full 4L, which (I was incorrect in the vid) is the correct amount according to the manual. I'm a real big fan of Penrite products, but for this as a lifetime sealed unit I used the OE fluid.
A little wrong. An experienced transmission re-builder will tell you (not me) the falcon Auto box is tricky to get enough oil in, therefore:- It needs to be a cold box before oil expands, idling in park for final top up. If you do a service and the box sucks air in the pump around corners or shifting from reverse to forward on a hill, before you give up on your box, try above top up method, you might be surprised. This is what I found out after 7 Falcons that I owned. Don't burn yourself on the exhaust.
If you follow what I did here the levels will be correct. This is why you put it through all the gears it pumps the fluid through the system bleeding all the air out, then you top up as shown.
Did it today, way overdue! Fliud was brown, and there was so much grey sludge. Shifts great now thou. Yep holding wire was a prick to get back on. Thanks for the help, awesome👍. Oh, in my kit there was another bigger o-ring also? Um , did I miss thing or is that for a different model? Cheers
Hiya, great vid buddy. RAC man told me to top up my AT fluid whilst engine was running and at temperature. Does this make sense. My gear shifts are clunky from park to reverse n drive etc. When cold And gear changes whilst driving are very sluggish. Cheers Paul
Mate if you have the same car, you can't get under it and do all that while it's running. But if you copy what I did, fill it, put the plug in, run it though the gears while running and then top up, it should be fine. If you have a car with a dip stick, you should check it while hot after driving. When it's running in neutral it has no affect on the levels it's only when loaded it will pull it though the system. Hope that all makes sense.
Paul R Your RAC man would be thinking of older style transmissions that had dipsticks. That would be what he was thinking about as you can check the oil while it's running.
Hi mate. I think you are dead right about the TQ 95 being the correct stuff. I asked a few transmission shops, and I have had so much differing feedback. I had a service on my 2005 falcon 4spd xr6, and it has played up ever since, they did not use the TQ95. I want to get it changed to the TQ95, one guy told me I can just do a basic drain and new filter, but that will only remove 40 percent of the old stuff that is in there. Another guy said you can do the whole thing, sump, torque converter etc...flush, and it will need up to ten litres to really get it all out! Not sure what do do or who to believe, any advice mate? Should I just do the basic 4 litre replacement? I am told they used a 'suitable' Gulf Western transmission fluid when they did it last time.
@@tangles01 Thanks. I will be buying and supplying the TQ 95 , I will be paying a mechanic I know and trust to do it, but wanted to check if you think I should do a complete flush, and change filter...and will it really take up to ten litres to do all that?
@@tangles01 Ah ok. I thought you might have been able to even tilt it if needed. Thanks again, I'll be having a crack at doing this myself soon and will be referencing your video.
It's not the dodgey I'm avoiding I know how long it takes so I won't be over charged, it's just that most of them are average and don't give a shit. Can't say I blame them. But this way if something goes wrong I can only blame myself.
Tangles ma man! Is there any chance you could show me how to do a combination switch video please i donno if i need to take the steering wheel off or not as i only have one headlight on cuz my C/s is buggered! Or any help with do mate you legend thanks for all your videos btw 🤙🏾
he plugs will be done wit the head gasket I think for the 300. If this job needed to be done more often it's be a decent idead to add a drain, but hardly worth the effort on a lifetime oil job. In theory should never need to be done.
I’m in nz and looking at buying a 2004 BA XR6 Turbo with 160km on the clock . Are these BTR transmissions reliable ? What tests can be done to see if it has any issues ? Cheers .
Not much in the way of tests check the coolant doesn't have brown froth in it because that will be trans fluid. Drive it. If it slips its fucked. If not it's fine, for now. Maintained these boxes see North of 500k. If not and thrashed, 150.
Thank you for your informative video. I am going to attempt this myself shortly. Regards the filler plug ring, did you buy this from Repco etc as it doesn't come with the Ryco filter kit? You can also buy the filler cap from Ford as they sell it complete. Cheers
is there a hole where the engine meats the trasmission that has been manfactured there? i see it looks like one on your car, but im not sure. i can see a gear through the hole in my car
I should add, for the last part refilling the box after running it is critical to making it shift right. they are a tad bit sensitive to the oil level.
Hey mate can you answer my question?my car seems too jump into gear when it revs up a little?dose it mean it needs tm oil i also own a van that did the same but i would know it needed tm oil so any help would be thankful Cheers
@@tangles01 yeah mate their wasn't much fluid in it. So i follow your video an change the transmission filter an fill her up an mate runs like new thanking you very much mate from far north queensland cheers
Thanks mate ,a very thorough tutorial that's given me the knowledge to to it my self instead of paying these half arsed parasitic mechanics a chunk of my money
As it's a "Lifetime system" the oil should be fine, I looked at it in the pan, it seemed fine, and the filter change is more of a precautionary measure. To do a transmission oil flush, you'll need to disconnect the nines up at the cooler and pump about 30l through the system to refresh most of the oil, unless you pull it out, drain it, clean it, do the same with the aftermarket trans oil cooler I have and the lines and the OEM cooler in the radiator, you'll never get it all anyway, but if I was to do that, I'd pay a tranny guy as they have the gear to do it easily and quickly. If I had slipping or found any debris in the pan or filter, I'd consider it.
@@tangles01 rubbish it requires about 12 litres to do transmission flushes i have done hundreds of them and no transmissions are not lifetime as in your life, it usually goes on lifetime of a car which is less than 10 years, transmission flushes are not hard messy but not hard anyone can do them in their driveway
@@iamasmurf1122 Rubbish yourself mate, it's not a flush. Yes a flush would require a lot more, and more then just your 12l, that would be a fill from dry, a flush you need to run some through to throw away. The car is already 18 years old. The lifetime on these things is average 400,000 to 500,000kms, if maintained. I'll continue this additional above recommended service at 50k intervals and inspect the fluid to see if anything further needs to happen.
Good tutorial mate.... plus it's real and how most of us would do it at home.... not on a hoist, and NOT with every cool tool a boy could have either. Plus I love the little mis-haps like the filter falling and the comment of "Ahh maybe I should've held that with my other hand" 😂 cheers for your time and help for everyone.
Yeah mate show my mistakes, saves you making them.
Pro tip : watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Rory Emilio definitely, been watching on flixzone for since november myself :D
your videos have inspired me to service my sisters partners old ford falcon 2008 model. been sitting outfront and ive been waiting for him to give me the car. i dont know how to service but your videos have helped me understand how to do it from home. thank you mate
Thats the idea mate.
Highly recommend this video. Transmission stopped working in reverse then a few days later stopped working altogether: move the lever, nothing, just an idling and revving engine but no drive. Did the fluid and filter as in this video. Used *exactly* 4L Transmax. I did this 5 months ago and it drives better than ever, so smooth!! The original fluid that came out was black. Big thanks and 👍 to Tangles for this video!
Lets hope she keeps going mate.
fk mine wouldn’t go past 50kms, then the trans stopped working all together, just idle and revs but won’t reverse or drive
@@taylorsamuels377 SOunds bad
This is the Best! My BF MKIII (200,000) got this treatment today. I decided to do it cause the car seemed to slip when cold backing out of my garage (up hill) then driving away up my street again up hill.
Now shifting smooth as butter.
Love that you left the bloopers in too many laughs had mainly cause I did some of the same dumb shit even after multiple viewings. Although I did go the two hand route for the filter removal 😁. I need another rag is an understatement!
Glad I saw one of the comments about needing a bigger breaker bar as that 16mm bolt was a bastard! Only took a little bit of bark off when she finally cracked. The brace wire was an ass hole to get back in too.
My car took the full 4 litre bottle plus another 300ish ml that I picked up on the test drive. Interesting that my tray only has one magnet too.
Thanks again man. You have the best B series videos I've seen.
Glad it helped mate, and the bloopers are the best bits
The filler bung bolt is 5/8th which is 15.875mm Ford's American.
Great tutorial 👍
Not one imperial fixing in the BTR box, built and designed in AUS, it is 16mm.
Cheers for the positive feedback though
@@tangles01 I own an au Falcon Ute and the top up filler bolt is 5/8th it fits perfectly.
Naturally the better the fit the less likely it will round the bolt.
Btw it was a Chinese made 5/8th 😂 🤣 but I will check it out there's only 0.125mm difference 5/8th and 16mm
@@alexwillis7093 DSI was based in Scoresbey Victoria. Manufacturing plant in Aulbry NSW.
In 2009 after bankruptcy it was bought by Geely. Who then sold it to Shuanglin in 2015.
However they continued to produce tranmissions for Ford aus in aus until 2011.
Their operations centre is still in Victoria.
@@tangles01 yes they were on Kaitlers road Springdale Heights not far from the BP truck stop, north of Albury NSW.
They produced the Borg Warner 3speed automatic transmission and yes they folded, not sure of when, I believe it was much earlier than 2009
The sheer fact that you made me laugh twice in the first few mins I subbed before I even got to the end of the video.
Thanks mate. I try to keep it light hearted and a bit entertaining.
Long time since was uploaded but this info might help others for a stubborn or stripped filler plug head
Shallow 6point socket and breaker bar normally will not fit in the gap between trans and tunnel without dropping the trans mount with the transmission still connected to engine and trans mount. Use a floor jack to lower slowly after removing the 4 trans mount bolts. First remove tailshaft 2x 10mm center bearing bolts - will tear center bearing bush if not done.
Don’t jack/support off the trans pan obviously. Use the bell housing to support with a block of wood in between the jack and bell housing to prevent dinting/cracking bell housing/engine sump. .
For a ridiculously tight 16mm filler plug you always try to use a long 6point hex ring spanner with no ring head offset (they arent a common spanner type to find). Don’t use a regular 12point offset ring spanner as the bolt head is too narrow and slips off thus stripping the plug head.
Never ever use a open ended spanner, not a even snap-on one full stop.
Being a past Ford mechanic I specifically use a long non slip12 point star spanner as they literally dig into the plug heads 6 faces.
If the plug gave is too far gone to use any spanner on the last option (beside welding a nut to it ( that option hardly ever works - the weld snaps and so do your knuckles)
Use a sharp chisel and hammer to remove plug. Make a small groove first for chisel to have a starting point (correct terminology - skirf) on the plug then hit the plug in a anti clockwise direction.
Ive used this method many times for customers who have stripped their plug. Note - this isn’t easy todo the first time around especially when car is on the ground but it will work every time if done correctly. Hammering shocks the plug thread and applies several ton of force to it if you arent weak and have the car jacked up high enough for enough hammer swing 😂
Very detailed write up there, honestly I don't remember it being that tight to access, but then I have a 300zx, it's all about perspective isn't it.
Great video, really helpful info and great to see a home service prove it's not impossible to DIY.
It's a piece of piss mate.
Awsome video hardest part was jacking up the front to same height as the back on the ramps, used a cheap plastic stacking box for the oil and just a 2m clear tube with a funnel to fill it worked a treat. If I hadn't watched this I would of missed the last two steps and underfilled it for sure
Glad it helped mate
What! No mosquitos on sunset to drive you indoors. Good to see someone else who starts draining oil only to lose 25% onto the driveway. Thanks for the video - it demystified what was going on under there.
Ah was only 10%, and mist free.
I use old cardboaed boxes. Just cut them open and spread them around on the ground. A lot more comfortable on back, elbows etc.
I mean if you've got them, sure bust them out. Also help to soak up minor spills.
This is a great tip, I no longer use my (cheap) garage creeper. I find it way more comfortable on thick, shiny cardboard and you can slide in and out really easy. Thumbs up 👍
Hey bro thanks so much for uploading these DIY tutorials. Really helps indeed.
Every time i get a response saying this helps, it makes it worth while for me to do this man. Glad it helped.
Well yeah it goes along way especially with accurate description helps because like other videos are on here but not many were like as accurate as yours. It helps us with our Aussie made products but keep up the good job bro because I'm still doing some DIY stuff to my Falcon also and came across yours and it wil definately help me out. :)
@@radoa4 All in a day's youtubing man.
@@tangles01 is there an AN fitting that fits the fill point?
@@dylanzrim3635 Probably
10/10 commitment for that! I was going to do this but, knowing me I might give it a miss!
Paul McGaw its not really a big or techical job. Bit more than an oil change. But hey if you're not confident then by all means have a pro do it for you.
Awesome video! Now I can change the transmission oil in my Ford ba. Thnx mate
@@vobhussaini2239 you should be able to yes
That evil mounting strap/wire for the filter! Done the exact same thing lol
It's a bastard of a thing, somehow.
Another great video have followed along with all of your BA videos & done each one
Even the door lock actuator? And wheel bearings? Those are kind of do if you have to jobs.
@@tangles01 yes the door lock actuator as drivers door was stuffed. The wheel bearings not yet lol
Very good demonstration!!! Thank you!!
Your videos are always easy to understand. Thanks for this one, hopefully solves my issue. 👍
Hope so!
One thing you should do is first push the bolts through the rubber seal on the pan as that holds all the bolts in place then hold the pan in place and start screwing up the bolts so simple 😊
The first time I took my pan off ITig welded into the bottom a bung and screw in plug, no more messy oil changes.
If i had a tig handy, I probably would too
Where did you buy the drain plug, or have you got a part number.
I re used the same plug mate.
@@Andrew.quigley I bought mine from a fastening speciality store and have done this job to both the RTV ute and the Subaru.
Also you can get the plastic sump for them that has the drain plug on it.
Not a horrible idea, I'd be a little concerned about it being banged up, and does it come with magnets formed into it?
@@tangles01 sorry mate, I was accidently talking about the zf gearbox haha..my bad
love the realism, ive been there done that.. dropped oil everywhere dropped drain plugs into oil pans etc.
I think everyone has, and that's why I show that, unlike some channels where everything is perfect every time. Can make a fuck up and get the job done right in the end, hopefully shows less confident people working on their cars you don't have to do it perfect all the time. Just as long as the end result is perfect.
Awesome video, although I found an easier way to refill. Feed a garden hose through the labyrinth of engine, put a funnel on the end you're filling from and the other end in the bung hole and you don't need to pump it in
If that's easier for you fair play, but you need to be under it to see when it's full.
Did my trans today, bloody fill bolt was so god dam tight!
That's why we take it out 1st imagine draining it and not being able to get it out.
Think about this fact...if you fit an aftermarket trans cooler and only drop the oil temp by a few degrees it will save your oil and transmission. Thanks for the pics mate
It really not neeeded for most, but it can't hurt, it is a must for towing however.
Yes right fluid.. good job. People use dexron 3 and it slips the clutch plates and bruns bands
..... Well done Mate, practical, informative, rational.
Cheers mate glad you enjoyed it.
G'day from Vic. Great vid - thanks mate - doing my oil change this week for the first time - so this helped me
Good to hear
Great video Tangles. Cheers mate!
Cheers for watching
Thanks for the clear video, just picked up a 2004 BA Falcon with 144k on the odo (Super stoked with it), plan on doing a full service and have never done trans oil before so this helps a lot! :D
It's easy as mate, just take your time.
If its working fine, I would leave it, I did my BF at 165,000 and it started slipping and flaring, has not stopped, and it was a pro who did it. I am told it happens a lot.
@@paulsimmons4987 Did he put dextron in it?
@@tangles01 Not sure mate, but they were reputable pro mechanics. I had a google, and found they were telling the truth. Many transmission shops and mechanics make you sign a waiver if the car has done over 100,000 klms, as an auto service can stir things up and damage O rings etc...it is the same in USA. I wasn't aware of this and will never do it again on an older car with high klms. Best thing IMO is just make sure the fluid level is OK and leave it alone.
@@paulsimmons4987 There are cases where new fluid will cause more slipping, it's when the transmission has already worn out too much and the friction material in the fluid which has worn off id doing the work. There are more cases where it's been done wrong, using the wrong fluid, especially these boxes where dextron will destroy the box as they use different materials, hence the QT95 fluid specific for these types of boxes.
Tried today, but unfortunately couldn't get the refilling screw out. It is so tight. May be another time. Thanks for the video mate, job well done without this miss 😂😂😂👍
Good thing you tried that 1st and didn't drain the oil 1st like most do. That's exactly why you try that 1st.
Make sure you use the correct size ring spanner (16mm) hold it firm and give it a good whack with a hammer, it will shock it loose
good job bro,own the rtv myself,due for a trans service.thanks for easy rundown
You won't even need the jacks if you've got the RTV
Nice video showed me what i need to do. Question for you ...I have fitted a Transmission cooler for my BA (PWR PW06115) and am planning to do this for the first time with cooler just installed...how much extra oil do you think would be required with cooler added ? ....thanks if you can answer or anyone else would be appreciated....Cheers
Mate this also has the additional aftermarket trans cooler, so exactly the same.
Legend mate great tutorial helped me out big time.
That's what it's for mate.
Good on ya mate
I’ve got a BA V8 Fairlane 2003 long story short
every 60,000 I flush the automatic as you’re doing here now it’s got 220,000 on it
Last week was due for another flush so thought I would change the solenoids
On eBay you can get the whole set of six Solenoids for 400 bucks
and I gotta tell ya the car drives absolutely magic
those transmissions are pretty good BUT you have to change the oil.......sealed for life is all bullshit
There are videos on UA-cam how to drop the valve body to do the solenoids literally it’s for bolts and disconnect a few wires
I'm sure there are many good vids on doing that, and if I ever need to I'll be sure to look them up. Glad you enjoyed mine.
The fill bolt is 5/8 , 16mm socket is a little loose . I also use a kids sand pit clam shelsl to catch the oil .
Good idea on the calm shells for a bigger catch area, but it's 100% a 16mm metric bolt head. problem is most of them have been attached with 17mm by now rounding the edges. 5/8" might fit, but it's 16.
@@tangles01 hi mate
I tried to open the fill bolt and rounded it.
Could you help me with where to find the new bolt.
Thanks
@@harmandosanjh6688 did you get it out?
@@tangles01 not yet
If I open it with bolt extractor I won’t be able to put it back
@@harmandosanjh6688 the factory service manual should have the bolt specs. Or Ford dealerships. Either are a good choice.
@tangles01 , thanks for the gerat vid. helped me heaps. just a question. i bought a 2005 Territory TX with 'slipping box'. Previous owner had it pulled and reconditions (Recondition torque converter). 4months later box slips/shudders again. i bought it, saw your vid, changed fluid and filter. Still seems to be slipping/shuddering!?! The old fluid had a bit of fine gray paste on magnets and tray, no real chunks or anything. Should i be buying a new box or should i flush the box? thanks
I'd say the box has probably had it and needs a rebuild. I don't think the previous owner did what they claimed. You could try a flush, I think chrisfix has a good vid on it? But odds are it needs to go to s transmission specialist, not a regular mechanic, as they will just give it to them and add a profit margin to the work.
Just buy a cheap falcon and change the tranny , wreck the rest of it and make exta cash.
Thanks bud, Hope you grabbed a beer after all that. Messy job no matter how careful we are. 😉
I might have had more than 1
Hey mate bit off topic I've got the milkshake in my radiator recently in my ba just wondering if it's possible to replace it with a 5.4 litre ba radiator I've been told it fits but not 100%about the AC fitments ,also would you recommend taking the punt on just getting the trans fully flushed and adding an external oil cooler I've been told it's a 50/50 chance I'll need a rebuild down the road anyway my cars only got 140 ks on clock so I'm hoping to keep it but not keen to if it will need that rebuild trans down the road sorry for the novel
It fully depends on how long the coolant has been in the box. If you caught it early, you might be okay. I'd look at the cost of a box vs the rebuild. And or the rebuild vs the flush, it might be short term quicker to flush but if the box might be 50/50 to be saved is it worth it or just better off getting the freshen up.
@@tangles01 thanks mate I'm even considering just scrapping the car by the time I get my licence back hopefully prices have settled down again am a bit over the old ba got a good few years
Awesome video - it'll make doing the job on our Territory much easier!
Glad it was helpful mate.
Do I need to change gearbox oil on my 2008 territory sy? 14.5w km how many liter?
Technically they are a lifetime oil, but I'd recommend changing it by 150k. If it's a 4 speed auto it's the same as this. if it's a 6 speed it's the ZF BMW box. Different.
Thanks for the video, enjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it
Yer not metal n seems pretty clean fluid after 150. Dirty job but nice to know its done i rekon. Mines 210 kms n gona do it. Pretty sure last owner didnt. Cheers
You can change the transmission case with a EF and you will have a dip stick again , so much easier to the fluid level
The level shouldn't change, once done, and the job shouldn't need doing for a few years, but if you had a drag car auto and that fluid is being swapped out, I could see the value.
Hey mate, thanks heaps for the video. Can I ask your opinion on something?
I have an AU falcon, the transmission line in the radiator cracked so was leaking trans fluid in to the coolant and vica-versa. I changed out the radiator, and all the hoses. Then I serviced the transmission as per the above video, it was full of crap (coolant/oil mix) but other than that didn't seem to bad. Anyway she's still dropping gears a lot but it gets better as it gets hotter, and each gear seems to be working correctly (unless it drops out).
My question is: Is my transmission cooked? or can I maybe get her working smooth by re-doing to the drain process to get the crap out? I also got the full 4 litres of oil in and it wasn't dripping so I don't want to buy more for top up if my transmission is dead. Lol.
Again, cheers for the vids.
because you've had the coolant in the trans you'll need a full transmission flush immediately. Your stator will not drain from this type of service, only the free oil will come out. You'll have to take it to a trans specialist or some mechanics, ASAP i'm afraid, the longer you wait the more damage it will cause, because you still have the oil/coolant mix in the system.
Did you need to replace the gear box?
@@noturaveragewatcher Good question...
@@noturaveragewatcher Nah I just flushed it again when it was hot, seems to work okay. Gearbox struggled a bit when I drove it up to kenilworth last week though lol. Car is junk so I was never going to replace more than the radiator. P.S. I reckon you need closer to 5 litres of fluid to fill these gearboxes.
I measured it out and was bang on 4 back in... But you may have pumped more into the coolant...
Thanks mate great video. helps me heaps.
Excellent glad it helped and thanks for taking the time to let me know.
I have done the same you did, buy oil is licking from the pan, what should i do ? Thanks for the tut mate
you could try nipping up the bolts a little more, carefull not to strip them. if that doesn't work, you'll need to do it again, check the gasket surface for damage etc.
Thanks for making these videos. Did you replace or mod your transmission oil cooler ? I read that they fail in BA/BF, what are your thoughts on me biting the bullet and fitting an aftermarket cooler on my 08' Fairmont . Thanks
Aftermarket cooler was fitted when I bought it.
Depends on what your doing with the car if your driving it hard or towing or anyway tthay will kind of work the gearbox and heat up the oil then yes...if your just driving around town and cruising i wouldn't worry about it.
Great vid cheers'
Glad it's helped mate
Thank you so much for your UA-cam video, helps lot.
Any time mate.
thanks heaps bro
you genius,
Awesome video
I'm no Genius mate, but glad it helped... I'm a assuming it did based on your comment at least.
tangles01 I’ll say you are no genius
I'll say you can barely breath and thing simultaneously.
How many litres of oil did you put in, inter-webs says 4l, I have 4L, just got my pumperator 5000 from supershit auto so gonna fill her up tomorrow morning
Cheers mate thanks for this Vid, My question is if I haven’t done a trans service for 10 years would it still be Synthetic oil in there or is there a good chance that’s it’s mineral & I’ll need to do a complete flush ..
I'm not sure if the QT-95 for these transmission is synthetic, mineral or semi synth. All I know is it was developed with the gearbox as a joint venture. Any mineral or synthetic trans fluid that isn't this will cause sub optimal performance and accelerate wear. So there are a couple of options, wing it, just do this as a basic service and put the QT-95 in or, go the flush route. I'd probably go for the 1st option. and if something messes up, then take it to be flushed. Good odds it's got the right stuff in it already.
Well today is the day for the XR8 🤞🤞 here's to hoping i dont need a rebuild 🤞🤞
Hi mate. Great video. Any idea where I can buy the transmission pan magnets from? Mine where missing in the pan.
No idea, wrecking yard?
I feel as long as the magnet is strong enough to not get sucked up, any magnet should do, or you could put them on the outside as well. I've seen that done on engine sumps.
Get neodymium magnets from supercheap l, they are much stronger and easy to get.
Great video and I like the informal nature of everything you said very easy to understand.One question ,do the O Rings only come with the kit or can you buy them individually?
The O'rings come with the kit, but no doubt you could find the same size in some form of O'ring kit on the shelf.
@@tangles01 Thanks for your help
@@tangles01 Hey sorry to bother you again ,I wanted ask you if the bung hole where you refill the transmission fluid is stripped can it be fixed or should I just throw the whole box away,I been refilling mine for months and just discovered that when I last had the seal changed the Fitter must have stripped it inside after refilling ,there was thread tape around the bolt and it never really occurred to me until watching your video that's what had happened,and this is why I'm trying to help myself I'm just over being ripped off.
@@wayneo1269 Mate that sucks, the filler hols you say.
1st Question is why do you need to keep re filling it? It shouldn't be leaking or is it leaking from the filler hole itself?
If it's some other leak, find that fix it and you should be able to make the filler seal in much the same way they did.
You may be able to clean the treads up with the right size tap too, enough to make it workable, but it's cast aluminium so very soft and you'll need to be careful, also dunk the tap in grease to trap the cuttings from the tap if you do. There are a few less extreme options than just binning it, but need to know the details to be more helpful.
@@tangles01 I'm pretty sure the front seal popped again and that was my 4th time at the mechanic shop and I been pissed ever since,thee are no real auto specialists in our town.So I been in limbo ever since just topping the fluid up.I bought another second hand gearbox but can't trust anyone to put it in,but I've decided to take action and am just trying to work out which will be my next step,I only worked out today that the inside was stripped because my brother thought it was time he told me about it,he was topping her up for me.If I get another seal should I get the genuine seal or does it matter?Any advice is greatly appreciated mate.
You sound just like my bro under the car when he did my transmission...🤣
Is he old, fat and crippled like me too?
@@annakramar5088 I've done the power steering videos on here.
@@tangles01 Thank you. I will watch it.😁
@@tangles01 Thank you excellent Vid. You got it wright..you're TWINS!🤣
Car Trans weird noise in the cabin, 1st gear jerked (Radiator cracked) pink milkshake. Full flush (Collected 24 x 2ltr bottles). (500ml Nulon Pre-Strength Extreme Cooling System Flush & Degreaser). Removed thermostat & O-Ring for faster flow & the O-ring expanded (cut it to fit as temp until we ordered new one..bad move). New Radiator/ RYCO Trans Kit/Coolant (all hoses were fine). Gear box is running smooth (255,573km). Needs one more coolant flush as there are a few tiny oil flecks left.
No garage/ off st parking. Worked on st. with a incline used ramps, car jacks, axel stands, timber, bricks to make it level so he could get under her. Next job is Power Steering, easy in comparison. I can't thank my bro enough.🚗
so how much oil in total went into the car? i did my xr6t just yesterday and dropped the pan, i didn't measure the amount out, and put about 3.8L back into the filler and left it at that.
i didn't realise you had to do those steps afterward also. i might put it back over the pit when i get to work tomorrow and out the last of the bottle in. it seems to run great as is and gave it more life/torque.
I used the penrite fully synthetic trans fluid.
3.8 litres went in on the 1st run, after running it through the gears et it ended up taking a full 4L, which (I was incorrect in the vid) is the correct amount according to the manual. I'm a real big fan of Penrite products, but for this as a lifetime sealed unit I used the OE fluid.
Hey mate great video do u happen to know if the 2008 fg auto is the same process
If it's a 4 speed it is, the 5 and 6 speeds are different.
@@tangles01 cheers mate
@@darrenvassallo2014 All good
Very good video tangles and cash
I see what you did there.
Great video. Helpful for me. Thanks
Glad it helped
Just removed the pan on mine and there was only one magnet, which is strange when yours had 3
A little wrong. An experienced transmission re-builder will tell you (not me) the falcon Auto box is tricky to get enough oil in, therefore:-
It needs to be a cold box before oil expands, idling in park for final top up. If you do a service and the box sucks air in the pump around corners or shifting from reverse to forward on a hill, before you give up on your box, try above top up method, you might be surprised. This is what I found out after 7 Falcons that I owned. Don't burn yourself on the exhaust.
If you follow what I did here the levels will be correct. This is why you put it through all the gears it pumps the fluid through the system bleeding all the air out, then you top up as shown.
Did it today, way overdue! Fliud was brown, and there was so much grey sludge. Shifts great now thou.
Yep holding wire was a prick to get back on. Thanks for the help, awesome👍. Oh, in my kit there was another bigger o-ring also? Um , did I miss thing or is that for a different model? Cheers
No idea mate, no o'ring in mine?
Cheers mate,great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Outstanding!
Have you fitted an external trans cooler, prevent cross contamination?
It was fitted when I bought it.
Hiya, great vid buddy.
RAC man told me to top up my AT fluid whilst engine was running and at temperature. Does this make sense.
My gear shifts are clunky from park to reverse n drive etc. When cold
And gear changes whilst driving are very sluggish.
Cheers Paul
Mate if you have the same car, you can't get under it and do all that while it's running. But if you copy what I did, fill it, put the plug in, run it though the gears while running and then top up, it should be fine. If you have a car with a dip stick, you should check it while hot after driving. When it's running in neutral it has no affect on the levels it's only when loaded it will pull it though the system. Hope that all makes sense.
Paul R Your RAC man would be thinking of older style transmissions that had dipsticks.
That would be what he was thinking about as you can check the oil while it's running.
oops didn't read Tangles reply.
All good homie more help the better
So entertaining and fearless!
Glad it's entertaining, It's hardly fearless
When you said go through all the gears?do you have to go through the tiptronic gears or just d-n-r-p?
Nah just into drive, but hold it there for a while.
hey mate, have you changed rear extension housing seal before, had my local mechanic do mine but still leaking, was gonna try fix it myself.
Nah mate sorry I haven't
tangles01 no worries cheers mate.
If I even need to, I'll be sure to film it
Wreckers
Hi mate. I think you are dead right about the TQ 95 being the correct stuff. I asked a few transmission shops, and I have had so much differing feedback. I had a service on my 2005 falcon 4spd xr6, and it has played up ever since, they did not use the TQ95. I want to get it changed to the TQ95, one guy told me I can just do a basic drain and new filter, but that will only remove 40 percent of the old stuff that is in there. Another guy said you can do the whole thing, sump, torque converter etc...flush, and it will need up to ten litres to really get it all out! Not sure what do do or who to believe, any advice mate? Should I just do the basic 4 litre replacement? I am told they used a 'suitable' Gulf Western transmission fluid when they did it last time.
Id find a place to flush it with TQ-95. take the bottles with you if you have to.
@@tangles01 Thanks. I will be buying and supplying the TQ 95 , I will be paying a mechanic I know and trust to do it, but wanted to check if you think I should do a complete flush, and change filter...and will it really take up to ten litres to do all that?
@@paulsimmons4987 Complete flush and yeah at least 10, I'd expect it to take more honestly.
Very helpful thanks! Hey you should have backed your car onto the trailer you would have had much more room to work underneath lol
Ive worked on a car on the trailer, it's not as roomy as you think
@@tangles01 Ah ok. I thought you might have been able to even tilt it if needed. Thanks again, I'll be having a crack at doing this myself soon and will be referencing your video.
@@Popesta All good mate
Exact issue, saved me getting over by dodgy mechanics, cheers tangles
It's not the dodgey I'm avoiding I know how long it takes so I won't be over charged, it's just that most of them are average and don't give a shit. Can't say I blame them. But this way if something goes wrong I can only blame myself.
Tangles ma man! Is there any chance you could show me how to do a combination switch video please i donno if i need to take the steering wheel off or not as i only have one headlight on cuz my C/s is buggered! Or any help with do mate you legend thanks for all your videos btw 🤙🏾
Wait so you want to install a 3 way toggle for your headlights/.
Do you know about the manuals as we broke the bleed nipple off and have air in the clutch
You're going to need to take off the cylinder easy out the nipple and replace it.
And then bleed it.
Thanks mate helped me out big time
That's why I do it.
lol still waiting on the struggle bus that is spark plugs on the vg30. Also, why not mod thepan on the transmission and put in a drain bolt?
he plugs will be done wit the head gasket I think for the 300. If this job needed to be done more often it's be a decent idead to add a drain, but hardly worth the effort on a lifetime oil job. In theory should never need to be done.
Good onya mate I'm doing this tomorrow stress free thanx to this video.
And also.. go the blues ;-) lol
lol yes mate up the blues
😆👌
How'd your trans oil change go?
I’m in nz and looking at buying a 2004 BA XR6 Turbo with 160km on the clock . Are these BTR transmissions reliable ? What tests can be done to see if it has any issues ? Cheers .
Not much in the way of tests check the coolant doesn't have brown froth in it because that will be trans fluid. Drive it. If it slips its fucked. If not it's fine, for now. Maintained these boxes see North of 500k. If not and thrashed, 150.
What transmission mount is that? Mines a 10 2004 BA mk2 but has that transmission mount. Cheers
It's the factory mount for the Falcon 4 speed mate.
Thank you for your informative video. I am going to attempt this myself shortly. Regards the filler plug ring, did you buy this from Repco etc as it doesn't come with the Ryco filter kit? You can also buy the filler cap from Ford as they sell it complete. Cheers
Mate the plug is re used, the o'ring comes with the kit.
You sound exactly like I do when I work on my Ford>
In pain, angry and Jaded?
@@tangles01 Thats it! This week I am doing the stuts and rear shocks, Should be fun lol
@@jamich5 Hope it all goes well mate, simple mechanical bits, no rocket surgery involved, so sound be fine.
@@tangles01 invest in an electric pump brother no more manual pumping that little bottle
@@aydentheninja877 I'll pick one up before doing the skyline gearbox oil I reckon.
is there a hole where the engine meats the trasmission that has been manfactured there? i see it looks like one on your car, but im not sure. i can see a gear through the hole in my car
I don't recall seeing a hole mate? You might be able to see the flywheel though?
I should add, for the last part refilling the box after running it is critical to making it shift right. they are a tad bit sensitive to the oil level.
pretty sure that's what I said to do, run it, top it up.
@@tangles01 yeah you did, just driving the point home. Take the extra hour to do it right
@@VehicleMechanical All good just making sure.
how about showing us how to replace a automatic gear change cable on a ba falcon
If I need to do it, I will
My ford will jump and hold 3k revs while driving along than goes back to normal do you know what would do that ? I got told the bands but not sure yet
It's slipping. It will need a rebuild.
Thanks a lot , you did well explained,
cheers
Have you ever had trouble with the oil coming back out of the drain hole while teying to fill it
No, and you shouldn't either if the drain plug is re fitted properly.
Is there a TQ95 equivalent or safer to use fore-mentioned?
Not as far as I know mate
Cheers dude, been for n against. Will stick with qt95 🤙🏄♀️
thanks for posting
No problems mate
Hey mate is it the same process for a 2006 Ford territory. Just bought car with 200k and now worried if its ever been changed 😂 thanks
Identical if its the 4 speed.
God bless you mate thank you!
You're welcome!
Hey mate can you answer my question?my car seems too jump into gear when it revs up a little?dose it mean it needs tm oil i also own a van that did the same but i would know it needed tm oil so any help would be thankful Cheers
Not sure what your explaining, it will change gears as you rev and go faster? do mean mean it's jerky or something strange when it changes?
@@tangles01 yeah mate it sort off jumps into gear
@@temoari Not sure mate, maybe. I would think it would slip with no fluid, you could check the level, like in the vid.
@@tangles01 yeah mate their wasn't much fluid in it. So i follow your video an change the transmission filter an fill her up an mate runs like new thanking you very much mate from far north queensland cheers
Happy to help mate. Now you do have to wonder where it all went though? Where is the leak?
Thanks mate ,a very thorough tutorial that's given me the knowledge to to it my self instead of paying these half arsed parasitic mechanics a chunk of my money
That's the idea
Cheers!
All G
What about the oil in the torque converter?
As it's a "Lifetime system" the oil should be fine, I looked at it in the pan, it seemed fine, and the filter change is more of a precautionary measure. To do a transmission oil flush, you'll need to disconnect the nines up at the cooler and pump about 30l through the system to refresh most of the oil, unless you pull it out, drain it, clean it, do the same with the aftermarket
trans oil cooler I have and the lines and the OEM cooler in the radiator, you'll never get it all anyway, but if I was to do that, I'd pay a tranny guy as they have the gear to do it easily and quickly. If I had slipping or found any debris in the pan or filter, I'd consider it.
@@tangles01 rubbish it requires about 12 litres to do transmission flushes i have done hundreds of them and no transmissions are not lifetime as in your life, it usually goes on lifetime of a car which is less than 10 years, transmission flushes are not hard messy but not hard anyone can do them in their driveway
@@iamasmurf1122 Rubbish yourself mate, it's not a flush. Yes a flush would require a lot more, and more then just your 12l, that would be a fill from dry, a flush you need to run some through to throw away. The car is already 18 years old. The lifetime on these things is average 400,000 to 500,000kms, if maintained. I'll continue this additional above recommended service at 50k intervals and inspect the fluid to see if anything further needs to happen.
Hi mate, could you please give me the details of the service kit? I got the oil but could not find the service kit so will try to order online.
Pretty sure I give the part number in the video?
bit of a silly question a simple google search would do the job mate..
What transmission fluid is that, can't see the label
Castrol Transmax TQ 95
0:00 Good morning UA-cam and the Internets lol :)
Gotta have a catch phrase
Do you know if its the same for the V8 4 speed box?
I believe so I think the 4 speeds are all the same box mate. but if it's a 5 or 6 speed auto, it's very definitely different.
@@tangles01 thanks
@@klepptomann All good
Do you know where is the transmission mount is localised??
Didn't go looking at the time mate.
88k?