Cut knot off measure from other end lol. Good job on the bracing, most people reverse this which renders it useless. Nicely done bud thanks for sharing.
I was in the same boat, I have had a door on order for about three months now and they are telling me it could be another three months. Thanks for the video I am going this way.
This was amazing! I just had a company come and look at my two car garage and they wanted $5000-$8000 to replace my busted tri-folds with standard raising doors!!! No thank you. For that price I think i'll try it myself. Very impressed with your work and explanations. You have a charismatic smile too!
Nice and simple. I'd flip that top diagonal the other way around (and cut them a little differently) - you want all that pulling down weight from the open edge of the door to transfer into the hinged side of the door (like your lower brace) rather than pulling from the hinge (like the top brace). Hope that helps.
Great video. Straight to the building without fiddling around. I will be using your design to build me a couple of those doors later in the year. Thanks!
@ Cheers for that, I think the US is a great place to work in and visit: I've been about 12 times, mostly work stopovers but did a four week detachment in Detroit once. If you get the chance (if you haven't already) visit Ironbridge and the Victorian town which is mostly run by volunteer actors as it were. It's the cradle of the Industrial Revolution following Cromford. Royal Navy historic dockyard in Portsmouth is worth two or three days inc a commercial hovercraft crossing of the Solent.
Thanks again for posting this! I got the 2 doors made, trimmed, insulated and painted. I had to use 1/4" plywood as the rockwool insulation is too dense to cover smoothly with 1/8" luan. The doors fit great, don't sag and can easily be opened and closed, even though each one weighs over 100#. I also used 2 packs of the metal lock barrel bolt you have listed in the description; work great!
Good job sir. My carport height was just shy of what I needed for a standard garage door. I am a carpenter by trade, so when I was searching for ideas, I came across your video. I’ve used your idea on my house but I added windows to each door. Anyway, I appreciate your upload and from the looks of the comments, you’ve inspired many to do the same! 👍🏽
Perfect exactly what I was looking for and the insulation was a brilliant touch ! Great job sir better than anything you could have bought! Keep up the good work
Absolutely the best design I have seen! We will be moving a 27' trailer into a 600 sq ft Carraige House we build first , before the 800 sq ft House. All on a build as we earn time-line. This idea will WORK! You made my day! Thank you!
I agree with Bob, I am having a heck of a time finding stuff at a reasonable price! My shop I'm building has increased my cost by almost 22% over the last few months and where I'm at I couldn't buy everything back when it was cheaper because they HOA won't let me stock up lumber etc.
Help me out here. What is the justification for the bracing that goes from the middle, back upward towards the hinge side. I understand the bracing that goes from the bottom hinge to the middle, as that is under compression. It seems like the other brace is not adding support against gravity puling the weight of the door down. As I understand it, the brace should be on the bottom of the hinge side, stretching all the way up to the top of the opening side. Am I wrong about this? Is there a reason for the reverse bracing?
You can build them that way and be fine I'm sure, I opt for this way as I have for many I have done and have had none to very little sag with this style. I do use the other method when using the 2x4's laying flat but it's just my preference for these doors Nicholas. thank you for the input and watching the video I appreciate it!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks, much appreciated. My gate project turned out amazing thanks to your video. Now I'm going to use the rest of my summer vacation on building slot car tracks :)
Not yet! Sorry. I used a 1x1 weatherstrip on the inside door trim and center along with a garage floor seal. here is the links amzn.to/47pZEdh and amzn.to/3ZjDck1 Hope this helps and I will get a quick video on it soon
Thank you for this video I need to rebuild my garage doors they are too heavy the wood ones that I've built and I could not find hinges to support them
This might be a stupid question but isn't it a security concern that someone could unscrew the hinges and enter the space? Is there a way to improve the security?
Sure by using carriage bolts instead, this one however is in the fenced back yard. If somebody really wants in they are going to get in. It's kind of like someone installing a huge thick front door with all the deadbolts and locks and have a window right next to it.
This is just what i'm looking for thanks, need to get rid of my up and over door to give me room for a golf simulator in my garage (Don't tell my wife)
I need to build doors almost exactly this size. I put a search in UA-cam and your great vid popped up first. I didn’t need to look any further. What for? Thanks.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I watched it twice and I’ll watch it 2 or three more times at least. I’ll stop watching it when I finish my doors. Maybe by the end of the month.
2:40 - in your opinion, is the 'British Brace' you used stronger than the 'Double Zed Brace' ? I want to add a backing to my new doors but am worried about the extra weight. There are three substantial band hinges on each door.
Both have their merrits, I have never had a problem with this style sagging but I would say go with whichever you are more comfortable with. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
How much gap between the 2 doors, so when you open one up, the 2x4 dont rub against each other? Great work and hoping to build mine for the garage using your plans. Heavy duty hinges right?
Hi Kenneth, I butt the hinge side as close as possible, top I leave 1/8 inch as they will sag a little, the bottom I leave 1/2 inch and center to be able to open with 2x4 frame is 3/4" to an 1 inch and yes heavy-duty hinges are worth the money
Hey thanks for the comment, You can either use the hinges listed on the interior instead or if you don't want to see the straps on the inside then use something like these hinges here amzn.to/3Ri5C9y Hope it helps and thanks for watching!
Great video! I'm using it to make similar doors for my new 24x32 shop with a 9'x10' door opening. 6-7 month delivery expectations and cost especially are 2 things why I decided to go this way. Also, my shop will be used mostly for building my 1966 Chevelle autocross car, welding and personal vehicle maintenance, so I don't really need doors that are convenient and easy to open several times a day or week. Have you another video on how you sealed the door, yet?
Sounds great! I used 1x1 self stick foam weatherstrip on the overlapping trim pieces and a garage floor door seal. amzn.to/3VBhPFp amzn.to/3OFqoON and amzn.to/3HVaBrC Hope this helps
I am about to frame out front and back of carport, 20 X 12 ft. back side will have a steel door, front side i’ll build 2 - 5 x 8 swing out doors to allow car entrance
Doors look great. Very nicely done. I need to build a set with each door being 6’wide and 12’ high. Would I approach doors of that size any differently than the method you used?
Hi Jacob, if you are planning to insulate them I would say put an X frame inside but if no insulation is needed or very little I would lay the framing flat for less sag but either way I would run a diagonal adjustable cable for extra strength. Let us know how it goes!
Do you have more detailed video or comment of how you kept the door panel in the correct position while attaching the hinges. I've never seen the hinges attached to both the door and building at the same time. Thanks
Hi Dave, I actually set the door frames in the opening and shim them where they are to be and then mark the frame where the panel grooves match up then when doors are done I set them back in the opening and set the trim on the doors so I know that I can install the hinges while keeping the doors straight. I hope that is what your question was.
This is the video I was watching and I can’t find what you used for weather stripping. I’m making doors for an old barn for a pool room and am wondering what you thought about bronze spring weather stripping. Thanks….enjoy your videos!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff thanks for the information…have you ever used bronze spring weatherstripping…just curious. That’s what’s on my house and it’s been there 100+ years. Only reason…thanks again.
@@KBMB47 Yes I have but don't think the cost is worth it with the new stuff out that may not last as long but still 25 years or more depending on the application.
I'm curious on how you did one door to overlap the other. Wish you'd have shown that in the video. In my mind, that central overlapping trim piece would have to stick out past the wall, further than the rest of the trim.. is that what you did? Can't quite picture how you can have it overlap and all stay on the same line
In my location it is not required, warm and dry. I do it on house builds though so I guess I could have. Thanks for watching and the input I appreciate it.
After months waiting for a garage door I decided to build my own garage shop doors which was the best decision I think. 2 Pack Metal Lock Barrel Bolt: amzn.to/3wwgh6X 6 Pack T Strap Hinge Shed Hinge: amzn.to/3tkn2qr Door Latch T-Handle Lock Kit: amzn.to/3wge7rB Lower door seal: amzn.to/3VBhPFp
Sorry I don't, I am not sure were it went but I used the 1" square weatherstrip peel and stick ( amzn.to/3RN5lKY ) against the interior trim that compressed to half inch with doors closed. floor seal i used was amzn.to/3VBhPFp
With how you did your video, it gives me confidence that I’ll be able to do this on my own. I have a circular saw but not a table saw, though I don’t think that’ll interfere with me completing my project. I have a question for you though. Do you think it would be fine for me to use my jigsaw and cut out windows in the paneling? I’d be using plexiglass for the windows. I also won’t be insulating my doors as the rest of my garage in nowhere near insulated or even airtight. (House was built in 1890.)
Hi Sonya, thank you for the great comment and your in a great community here to help and cheer you on. Sure you can use a jigsaw if you are more comfortable with it. Keep us updated on you progress! Thanks for watching.
Hi Great video! Did you have to build Jambs for this door? Also, if I followed a similar design but wanted to add glass to the top for windows… how do you recommend doing that? Just want to make the sure the engineering is done right to support the glass.
Hi and Welcome, Yes I had to build the jams but that was just trim boards. You can add windows just as you would when building a wall just be sure to keep the diagonal bracing under the windows
We're getting ready to buy a house and it has a commercial building out back. I'm not sure but I think it had a common size 2 door garage door on it but they were having problems with it and so her son removed it so one of the first things I need to do when we move in is install some doors probably about like what you built here. Do you remember how much money in materials it cost for everything building these?
My house has had T111 siding since being built in 1988. I've received comments from neighbors, friends and family about how bad it is. However, in 35 years I have had no problems.
Hi Kurt, I butt it up on the sides and add minimum 3/4" center gap but do recommend 1 inch as these doors will move a bit and with the 2x4 width should have enough clearance to open correctly.
No not to much at all, I knew I was going to get some sag that the nature of the doors but all in all about 1/4" so I haven't had to add diag wire so far. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly what I was looking for. The price of insulated overhead doors is CRAZY! How large of an opening do you think this design will support? I will have an 8x7, 10x10 and 12x12. The 12x12 worries me a little.
Hi Joe, well the front wall is not load bearing so you would not need a big header so I would say you can go as wide as you want but stay with no higher than 8 feet since the walls are 9 feet
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks for the reply. What I meant was, will this frame design support a 6’wide 12’ tall door (for a 12x12 opening) without sagging? I know I would have to add some blocking in for attaching the sheathing.
LOL, I have always been that way my whole life and I have made FIRE too! Thanks for watching and the comment and know we all need to get to making stuff!
I’m almost 50yo, and have learned how to do all this types of things around the house or basically manual labor. I know is because it was needed, but also because I was doing it with my father or someone else who took the time to show me. We often say “this generation doesn’t want to work, or doesn’t know” the reason why UA-cam is popular is because we are so busy with life, and don’t show them. Or we don’t need to build them. But let’s not blame them or try to shame them. The new generations have their own skills, and opportunities to improve. Just my point of view.
Brothers/Sisters, if you have an issue with fiber glass insulation irritating your skin. I have a simple solution. I used to run a machine that stuffed fiber glass into automotive mufflers. At the end of week 1 I looked like a full blown method addict. I had scratched my arms to the point they were bleeding. One day a vendor walked by and told me " I used to look like that. I ran a fiber glass machine. I found that shaking baby powder on my arms and neck then patting it in made it impossible for the fiber glass to penetrate my skin."
The only dumb question is the one we don't ask, so here it is. What is the clearance between the frame and the door, top, bottom, and side, as well as where the doors meet in the center? I am building one just like yours for my shop but just want to ensure I do it right in every aspect. Thank you for the great video
Hi Fernando, I but the hinge side as close as possible, top I leave 1/8 inch as they will sag a little, the bottom I leave 1/2 inch and center to be able to open with 2x4 frame is 3/4" to an 1 inch
@@kalzonenu Thank you for your answer and follow-up. Now I have all the details (I think) to build the door. I saved your video, noted the response, purchased the wood, and I am waiting for the monsoons to go away because I need to build it outside. I am also subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
@@fernandorivera7155 I understand that, we got hit hard with monsoons this year which is great because we need the water. Thanks for subbing to the channel I sure appreciate it.
You did really good until I watched you drill that hole in the concrete. It's going to fill with dirt, but mostly water, then freeze a few times. That slab will have a weak stop forever.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I drilled a hole at the head of the stall and used it as a "dead man" to help me jerk vehicles up the slope and into the garage. When the holes weren't being used, I capped them. Worked great for years. Enjoy :)
Exactly what I was looking for. No BS intro, straight to the point. Easy to follow instructions. TYVM
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Cut knot off measure from other end lol. Good job on the bracing, most people reverse this which renders it useless. Nicely done bud thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip Nate!
I was in the same boat, I have had a door on order for about three months now and they are telling me it could be another three months. Thanks for the video I am going this way.
Thanks for sharing Bob, remember to ask if you need any help with your build we are all here to help
This was amazing! I just had a company come and look at my two car garage and they wanted $5000-$8000 to replace my busted tri-folds with standard raising doors!!! No thank you. For that price I think i'll try it myself. Very impressed with your work and explanations. You have a charismatic smile too!
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Nice and simple. I'd flip that top diagonal the other way around (and cut them a little differently) - you want all that pulling down weight from the open edge of the door to transfer into the hinged side of the door (like your lower brace) rather than pulling from the hinge (like the top brace). Hope that helps.
Great video. Straight to the building without fiddling around. I will be using your design to build me a couple of those doors later in the year. Thanks!
I really appreciate that, glad I could help!
Best one I’ve watched so far. Efficiently making something quite durable. Thank you
Awesome, thank you!
Brilliant job. Thank you from Neil, England.
You're very welcome, I sure appreciate you watching. By the way I loved it in England when I was there awhile back, everyone treated us like family!
@ Cheers for that, I think the US is a great place to work in and visit: I've been about 12 times, mostly work stopovers but did a four week detachment in Detroit once. If you get the chance (if you haven't already) visit Ironbridge and the Victorian town which is mostly run by volunteer actors as it were. It's the cradle of the Industrial Revolution following Cromford. Royal Navy historic dockyard in Portsmouth is worth two or three days inc a commercial hovercraft crossing of the Solent.
@@MaxPlankton Thanks, I will be sure to do that next time over there.
Thanks again for posting this! I got the 2 doors made, trimmed, insulated and painted. I had to use 1/4" plywood as the rockwool insulation is too dense to cover smoothly with 1/8" luan. The doors fit great, don't sag and can easily be opened and closed, even though each one weighs over 100#. I also used 2 packs of the metal lock barrel bolt you have listed in the description; work great!
Nice! appreciate ya commenting and watching!
This was a great instructional common sense video that was perfect information for my project.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching, I sure appreciate it!
Good job sir. My carport height was just shy of what I needed for a standard garage door. I am a carpenter by trade, so when I was searching for ideas, I came across your video. I’ve used your idea on my house but I added windows to each door. Anyway, I appreciate your upload and from the looks of the comments, you’ve inspired many to do the same! 👍🏽
Glad I could help and thank you so much for taking the time to comment along with watching, I sure appreciate it.
Must be very satisfying to be able to build with such skill & precision. Thanks for sharing
I sure appreciate you joining in here and the great comment it means a lot to me that you would take the time to watch my video!
This is the EXACT VIDEO I was looking for. Thank you for your time and posting this.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching
Perfect exactly what I was looking for and the insulation was a brilliant touch ! Great job sir better than anything you could have bought! Keep up the good work
Hey thanks for the great comment and watching my video I sure appreciate it!
Very nice, exactly what I was after. Thanks.
Glad it helped Scott! Thanks for watching I sure appreciate it.
Thanks
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Great job on your doors, they look great.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Perfect design. I'm going that route.thanks for the tutorial brother 🙂🙂👍🏽👍🏽
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Absolutely the best design I have seen! We will be moving a 27' trailer into a 600 sq ft Carraige House we build first , before the 800 sq ft House. All on a build as we earn time-line. This idea will WORK! You made my day! Thank you!
Wow, thanks Rhonda! You sure made me smile today! Thanks for watching.
Wow! I need to build six of these. Never thought of laying the 2x4's on the side. Excellent video and thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Straight to the point 👉 I love it!
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Thank you so very much!!!!!! When this hot weather breaks this is going to be my next project….
That's great, Yeah it's been a bit hot that's for sure! Thanks for watching
Nice design, I’ll probably copy it. I’ll probably do the painting before the hinges are attached though
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Thank you 🙏
This helped me for my shed project I’m working on. Really good video 👍🏼
Thanks for watching Pete, I appreciate ya!
I followed these directions and the results were great
I'm glad Chad, and thanks for joining in here I sure appreciate it.
I agree with Bob, I am having a heck of a time finding stuff at a reasonable price! My shop I'm building has increased my cost by almost 22% over the last few months and where I'm at I couldn't buy everything back when it was cheaper because they HOA won't let me stock up lumber etc.
OMG the prices are crazy and I feel your pain Harry. Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Nice work, definitely using this design for our PoleBarn. Cheers Mark at the Cay.
Thanks Mark, I appreciate the support
I would hinge to a jamb not to the framing, so that future adjustments are easy to make when it starts shifting.
Thanks for the input Jeremy, we appreciate it.
Help me out here. What is the justification for the bracing that goes from the middle, back upward towards the hinge side. I understand the bracing that goes from the bottom hinge to the middle, as that is under compression. It seems like the other brace is not adding support against gravity puling the weight of the door down. As I understand it, the brace should be on the bottom of the hinge side, stretching all the way up to the top of the opening side. Am I wrong about this? Is there a reason for the reverse bracing?
You can build them that way and be fine I'm sure, I opt for this way as I have for many I have done and have had none to very little sag with this style. I do use the other method when using the 2x4's laying flat but it's just my preference for these doors Nicholas. thank you for the input and watching the video I appreciate it!
Fantastic video, I'm about to use this for my own insulate garage doors in the UK. Thanks for the knowledge share!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and the support.
Lovely job mate........Cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
This is exactly what i need to do. Perfect, thanks!
That's great Chris, thanks for the support and have a great Monday!
Thanks for sharing, just what I was looking for. You are a true craftsman. Liked and subscribed
Thank you, and good luck with your channel it is very interesting!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks, much appreciated. My gate project turned out amazing thanks to your video. Now I'm going to use the rest of my summer vacation on building slot car tracks :)
@I Like To Build Stuff, I never thought of using wood glue as a sealer and secondary bonding agent. Thanks for the tip
Glad to help
Excelente, maestro! Saludos desde Perú.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Brilliant! Did you ever do a follow up videos with sealing it?
Not yet! Sorry. I used a 1x1 weatherstrip on the inside door trim and center along with a garage floor seal. here is the links amzn.to/47pZEdh and amzn.to/3ZjDck1 Hope this helps and I will get a quick video on it soon
@@ILikeToBuildStuff perfect, thank you 👍🏻
Thanks for the video man looking to open up the front of the shop and build these
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Nice set of doors!
Subbed!
Thanks for the sub Ron! I appreciate ya! Thanks for watching my video also!
Nice door man, thank you for video. Subscribed!
Hey Thanks Robert, I appreciate it.
Thank you for this video I need to rebuild my garage doors they are too heavy the wood ones that I've built and I could not find hinges to support them
Glad I could help, thanks for watching Douglas.
I really enjoyed watching this video. Just plain crafting from an older craftsman, no bullshit UA-cam content from millennials ❤
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Great Video, thanks for the tutorial 😃.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
This might be a stupid question but isn't it a security concern that someone could unscrew the hinges and enter the space? Is there a way to improve the security?
Sure by using carriage bolts instead, this one however is in the fenced back yard. If somebody really wants in they are going to get in. It's kind of like someone installing a huge thick front door with all the deadbolts and locks and have a window right next to it.
Thanks for the video👍.Just what i needed,i am gonna make one too.
Glad it helped, Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Hi Mr. Adams. By how much smaller did you make the frame against the opening? What is your tolerance? Thank you so much in advance.
Zero on the sides, just butt it up against framing be sure to level, the center is where you will need the gap and I used a 1/2 to 3/4"
This is just what i'm looking for thanks, need to get rid of my up and over door to give me room for a golf simulator in my garage (Don't tell my wife)
LOL that sounds like a plan, thanks for watching Mark, I appreciate it!
I need to build doors almost exactly this size. I put a search in UA-cam and your great vid popped up first. I didn’t need to look any further. What for? Thanks.
I sure appreciate you joining in here Ray and the great comment it means a lot to me that you would take the time to watch my video!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I watched it twice and I’ll watch it 2 or three more times at least. I’ll stop watching it when I finish my doors. Maybe by the end of the month.
2:40 - in your opinion, is the 'British Brace' you used stronger than the 'Double Zed Brace' ?
I want to add a backing to my new doors but am worried about the extra weight. There are three substantial band hinges on each door.
Both have their merrits, I have never had a problem with this style sagging but I would say go with whichever you are more comfortable with. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
How much gap between the 2 doors, so when you open one up, the 2x4 dont rub against each other? Great work and hoping to build mine for the garage using your plans. Heavy duty hinges right?
Hi Kenneth, I butt the hinge side as close as possible, top I leave 1/8 inch as they will sag a little, the bottom I leave 1/2 inch and center to be able to open with 2x4 frame is 3/4" to an 1 inch and yes heavy-duty hinges are worth the money
Looks good! I wish I was able to use simple doors like that, but the hurricanes here made me me over-engineer it like crazy.
I understand that!
What wood did you use for exterior? Concerned about water damage?
T1-11 Siding primed and painted
That was a great video. Thank you. What kind of hinges should I use if I want the droors to open inwad?
Hey thanks for the comment, You can either use the hinges listed on the interior instead or if you don't want to see the straps on the inside then use something like these hinges here amzn.to/3Ri5C9y Hope it helps and thanks for watching!
Great video! I'm using it to make similar doors for my new 24x32 shop with a 9'x10' door opening. 6-7 month delivery expectations and cost especially are 2 things why I decided to go this way. Also, my shop will be used mostly for building my 1966 Chevelle autocross car, welding and personal vehicle maintenance, so I don't really need doors that are convenient and easy to open several times a day or week. Have you another video on how you sealed the door, yet?
Sounds great! I used 1x1 self stick foam weatherstrip on the overlapping trim pieces and a garage floor door seal. amzn.to/3VBhPFp amzn.to/3OFqoON and amzn.to/3HVaBrC Hope this helps
@@ILikeToBuildStuff thank you for the info!
No problem thanks for watching!@@rixtrix11
u make look so easy 😊
Just take your time and plan it out, you can do it no problem! Thanks for watching and commenting I sure appreciate it.
I am about to frame out front and back of carport, 20 X 12 ft. back side will have a steel door, front side i’ll build 2 - 5 x 8 swing out doors to allow car entrance
@@MrAvlandrew If you like I would love if you would send some pics of your project by email.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Ok i will try to remember to send some pics, thx.
Doors look great. Very nicely done. I need to build a set with each door being 6’wide and 12’ high. Would I approach doors of that size any differently than the method you used?
Hi Jacob, if you are planning to insulate them I would say put an X frame inside but if no insulation is needed or very little I would lay the framing flat for less sag but either way I would run a diagonal adjustable cable for extra strength. Let us know how it goes!
Any issues with the hinges over time? Have a link for those?
Not so far Nicholas, they are hanging in there. 6 Pack T Strap Hinge Shed Hinge: amzn.to/3tkn2qr
Do you have more detailed video or comment of how you kept the door panel in the correct position while attaching the hinges. I've never
seen the hinges attached to both the door and building at the same time. Thanks
Hi Dave, I actually set the door frames in the opening and shim them where they are to be and then mark the frame where the panel grooves match up then when doors are done I set them back in the opening and set the trim on the doors so I know that I can install the hinges while keeping the doors straight. I hope that is what your question was.
This is the video I was watching and I can’t find what you used for weather stripping. I’m making doors for an old barn for a pool room and am wondering what you thought about bronze spring weather stripping. Thanks….enjoy your videos!
I used this seal at the bottom that works great amzn.to/3VBhPFp
I used the 1 inch foam seals around the doors inside trim
amzn.to/3Hp2i6q
@@ILikeToBuildStuff thanks for the information…have you ever used bronze spring weatherstripping…just curious. That’s what’s on my house and it’s been there 100+ years. Only reason…thanks again.
@@KBMB47 Yes I have but don't think the cost is worth it with the new stuff out that may not last as long but still 25 years or more depending on the application.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Ok thanks for the information!
I'm curious on how you did one door to overlap the other. Wish you'd have shown that in the video. In my mind, that central overlapping trim piece would have to stick out past the wall, further than the rest of the trim.. is that what you did? Can't quite picture how you can have it overlap and all stay on the same line
Hello and welcome, Yes that is what I did by using a 1x6 for the center overlap. Good eye!
Is that a separate tool to hold the drill bit?
Where or what’s it called?
Thank you!
They are just snap in bits for impact drivers (the drill)
Thankyou for the video. The door you build out of 2x4 and t11 siding will it the keep the heat in .
Yes it does when sealed as you would do any exterior door. I used wide interior trim with 1x1 self sticking foam weatherstrip.
Thank you for getting back to me .I was thinking about building exterior door the same way you did here what's your thoughts on that Thank you.
@@relectric720 Should work fine for ya.
Awesome.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Did you ever do a video of the seals?
Hi JR, not yet sorry
No not yet, sorry. Kind of got put on the back burner sort to speak.
how come you didn't use vapor barrier?
In my location it is not required, warm and dry. I do it on house builds though so I guess I could have. Thanks for watching and the input I appreciate it.
After months waiting for a garage door I decided to build my own garage shop doors which was the best decision I think.
2 Pack Metal Lock Barrel Bolt: amzn.to/3wwgh6X
6 Pack T Strap Hinge Shed Hinge: amzn.to/3tkn2qr
Door Latch T-Handle Lock Kit: amzn.to/3wge7rB
Lower door seal: amzn.to/3VBhPFp
may be a silly question, but what is the name of that saw?
Not silly at all, it's a DEWALT Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-Inch amzn.to/3ViVfVc Thanks for watching!
Great vid, thanks! About how long would this take an average carpenter to build do you think?
A few hours, thanks for watching!
what do you use to mock it up? blender?
I like Sketchup
great tutorial. will water get in when it rains? do you think there's a way to weather seal?
I have had some pretty hard rain and no leakage and that was before weather seals were installed with the inside trim. Thanks for watching!
what about dust? I'm going to make one of these this weekend
@@ILikeToBuildStuff
Not much of that either @@stevecarrillo
Do you have a link to the video with the seals?
Sorry I don't, I am not sure were it went but I used the 1" square weatherstrip peel and stick ( amzn.to/3RN5lKY ) against the interior trim that compressed to half inch with doors closed. floor seal i used was amzn.to/3VBhPFp
Hi Jim! Great video. Do you have any advice on sealing / weatherstripping?
I used this seal at the bottom that works great amzn.to/3VBhPFp
I used the 1 inch foam seals around the doors inside trim
amzn.to/3Hp2i6q
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks!!
@@seanwhalen8220 No problem, anytime.
How did you weatherstrip the bottom?
Hi William, Happy New Year! I used this seal that works great amzn.to/3VBhPFp Hope it helps.
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
What’s the name of the front board and rear thin board you used called for the door ? Thanks
Front is T-11 and thin inside panels are Luan
What did you do with the sills ?
I used the 1 inch foam seals around the doors inside trim and the Garage Door Threshold Seal here are the links for ya
amzn.to/3YhfPEd
amzn.to/3Hp2i6q
what did you use to make the design printout?
Hi Craig, I used sketchup from google
With how you did your video, it gives me confidence that I’ll be able to do this on my own. I have a circular saw but not a table saw, though I don’t think that’ll interfere with me completing my project. I have a question for you though. Do you think it would be fine for me to use my jigsaw and cut out windows in the paneling? I’d be using plexiglass for the windows. I also won’t be insulating my doors as the rest of my garage in nowhere near insulated or even airtight. (House was built in 1890.)
Hi Sonya, thank you for the great comment and your in a great community here to help and cheer you on. Sure you can use a jigsaw if you are more comfortable with it. Keep us updated on you progress! Thanks for watching.
Absolutely we are here for you Sonya! You can do it!
Hi Great video! Did you have to build Jambs for this door?
Also, if I followed a similar design but wanted to add glass to the top for windows… how do you recommend doing that? Just want to make the sure the engineering is done right to support the glass.
Hi and Welcome, Yes I had to build the jams but that was just trim boards. You can add windows just as you would when building a wall just be sure to keep the diagonal bracing under the windows
What size are you using for the trim on the outside? 1x4?
Hi, They are 1x4 with a 1x6 center overlap
We're getting ready to buy a house and it has a commercial building out back. I'm not sure but I think it had a common size 2 door garage door on it but they were having problems with it and so her son removed it so one of the first things I need to do when we move in is install some doors probably about like what you built here. Do you remember how much money in materials it cost for everything building these?
Hi Jeff, if my memory is right I was in the $400 to $500 all in. Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Great, thank you!
@@bodeine454 You bet Jeff
What is that with the design in it? Looks like bunch of 2x4s together
The doors are made with 2x4s and the drawing is of 2x4s. I hope that answers it because I wasn't sure your meaning.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Oh nah looks like plywood with grooves in it. Sorry I should have said plywood from the start
@@emyhR No Problem, Yes it was T111 siding
@@ILikeToBuildStuff THANK YOU!!!!
My house has had T111 siding since being built in 1988. I've received comments from neighbors, friends and family about how bad it is. However, in 35 years I have had no problems.
Did you create an air tight seal around the door and if so how was that achieved?
Hi Garrett, I used a garage door seal on the bottom and trim with foam weather seal around the rest.
amzn.to/3VuH4u2 and amzn.to/3yGnuRS
Great video. How much smaller than your rough opening were your doors? Or maybe it's better to ask the clearance on all sides of each door.
Hi Kurt, I butt it up on the sides and add minimum 3/4" center gap but do recommend 1 inch as these doors will move a bit and with the 2x4 width should have enough clearance to open correctly.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thank you. I was thinking the same, 1/4" on sides and 1/2" in center of total of 1" clearance.
So, has there been any sag? I don't care much for those types of hinges here in the city.
It sure would've been a lot easier to do it with those.
No not to much at all, I knew I was going to get some sag that the nature of the doors but all in all about 1/4" so I haven't had to add diag wire so far. Thanks for watching!
6:52 taco bell night with the boys
mmmmmmm Taco's
How much did you pay for all the lumber?
If I remember correctly, it was in the area of $250 total
This is exactly what I was looking for. The price of insulated overhead doors is CRAZY! How large of an opening do you think this design will support? I will have an 8x7, 10x10 and 12x12. The 12x12 worries me a little.
Hi Joe, well the front wall is not load bearing so you would not need a big header so I would say you can go as wide as you want but stay with no higher than 8 feet since the walls are 9 feet
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks for the reply. What I meant was, will this frame design support a 6’wide 12’ tall door (for a 12x12 opening) without sagging? I know I would have to add some blocking in for attaching the sheathing.
@@joeamato3936 Oh okay, yes it should and you could also run a diagonal turn buckle cable if needed to help keep it square too
We are returning to the generation where we have to be men and MAKE our own stuff. Godspeed, folks.
LOL, I have always been that way my whole life and I have made FIRE too! Thanks for watching and the comment and know we all need to get to making stuff!
I'm A 65yo woman and build my own stuff 😁
I'm going to need some in depth tutorial videos making my own vehicle from nothing.
@@janetm632564 here and I just made these doors for garage
I’m almost 50yo, and have learned how to do all this types of things around the house or basically manual labor. I know is because it was needed, but also because I was doing it with my father or someone else who took the time to show me. We often say “this generation doesn’t want to work, or doesn’t know” the reason why UA-cam is popular is because we are so busy with life, and don’t show them. Or we don’t need to build them. But let’s not blame them or try to shame them. The new generations have their own skills, and opportunities to improve. Just my point of view.
Brothers/Sisters, if you have an issue with fiber glass insulation irritating your skin. I have a simple solution.
I used to run a machine that stuffed fiber glass into automotive mufflers. At the end of week 1 I looked like a full blown method addict. I had scratched my arms to the point they were bleeding.
One day a vendor walked by and told me " I used to look like that. I ran a fiber glass machine. I found that shaking baby powder on my arms and neck then patting it in made it impossible for the fiber glass to penetrate my skin."
Great tip Richard, thanks for joining in here we all appreciate it!
Same method that barbers use before cutting hair.
The only dumb question is the one we don't ask, so here it is. What is the clearance between the frame and the door, top, bottom, and side, as well as where the doors meet in the center? I am building one just like yours for my shop but just want to ensure I do it right in every aspect. Thank you for the great video
Hi Fernando, I but the hinge side as close as possible, top I leave 1/8 inch as they will sag a little, the bottom I leave 1/2 inch and center to be able to open with 2x4 frame is 3/4" to an 1 inch
I was curious on this aswell.
@@kalzonenu Thank you for your answer and follow-up. Now I have all the details (I think) to build the door. I saved your video, noted the response, purchased the wood, and I am waiting for the monsoons to go away because I need to build it outside. I am also subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
@@fernandorivera7155 I understand that, we got hit hard with monsoons this year which is great because we need the water. Thanks for subbing to the channel I sure appreciate it.
Nearly $9 for 2x4? I paid ~$2.50/ea yesterday, and even Lowes price is under $4.
How do you think I feel I had to pay it if I wanted lumber! LOL I am glad lumber prices have realigned since the blip.
Can you come help me?😂.. I want the same thing except with a man door.. to fit a gap 11'6 ×7'3
You could always frame a walk-through door within the larger door like we door within barn doors
The diagonals are wrong.
Okay
I’m screwed, I can’t cut a straight line to save my life. 😂😂😂
LOL, sure ya can! Thanks for watching!
please start selling shirts!!
Will be very soon, thank you! I appreciate your interest and for watching and joining in here.
Noooo 8.96 each? For 2x4 That can't be right it's usually about a third of that
It was during the blip, you know when not much was available so you paid out the butt to get what you could. Supply and Demand!
You did really good until I watched you drill that hole in the concrete. It's going to fill with dirt, but mostly water, then freeze a few times. That slab will have a weak stop forever.
I sure appreciate you joining in here and the comment it means a lot to me that you would take the time to watch my video!
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I drilled a hole at the head of the stall and used it as a "dead man" to help me jerk vehicles up the slope and into the garage. When the holes weren't being used, I capped them. Worked great for years. Enjoy :)