How to make Battery Cables For Auto, Marine & Solar
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2014
- repairs101.ca/how-to-make-bat...
How to make crimped, soldered and waterproofed battery terminal connections without expensive equipment as demonstrated by Heavy Duty Mechanic. Options explored include improvised crimping technique and ready to use solder filled terminals. #electrical #batteries #mechanic
Transcript provided for the hearing impaired:
Alright, today on Repairs101 I’m going to show you how to make battery cables for your boat, car, truck, motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV, lawn mower, generator or hovercraft (or solar collector).
I find a lot of people are prepared to blame their battery when their machines won’t start but often it’s just another symptom of a much bigger problem. If you see mismatched cables, broken and / or corroded connections, temporary terminal clamps used permanently, wrong size terminal connections or wire cut down to fit. Yeah, it’s time to make new cables.
Collect all the gear you’ll need to change everything that is at all questionable. If you use battery terminal clamps you can get this type that comes pre-loaded with solder and flux. I find them difficult to crimp neatly and I prefer battery terminals to be crimped and soldered.
These adapters are used when your cables don’t match your battery. Make sure you have both a positive and a negative.
This style of clamp should be looked at as a temporary solution only.
If you need to parallel a ground, this is the fitting you want.
Make sure you have the same gauge of terminals and cable.
Tinned boat cable can last up to ten times longer than ordinary welding cable. It’s normal to cut through a few strands of wire, just pluck them out before you add the flux paste.
Chewing through the cable like this makes the end a mess that’s difficult to work with.
The solder and flux used for copper pipes and / or sheet metal work is much too corrosive for wire. Be sure and put some paste in the fitting and some shrink tube on the cable before you crimp it. Use a crimping tool or a swager if you can get your hands on one - otherwise a flat nail-punch and an angle iron or an aluminium ninety will do the trick nicely.
Normally you would use your vise to hold this while applying heat but my vise is in the wood-shop where I don’t use torches.
I should warn you about the mess this can create. Be sure and set up somewhere where it won’t matter.
Alright thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe! - Навчання та стиль
One of the best no nonsense videos I've seen for making your own battery cables!
Rock on, Micheal!
How NOT to crimp 101. Cold solder joints, exposed conductor, soldering crimp connectors.... the list goes on!
Since late 1800 we’ve been using what you called 1:21 temporary solutions. And worked for over 130 years. I think i will stick with temporary solution
Me too never had an issue with 12 v DC temporary solution
Little critique, when you plunged the cable into the battery terminal at 3:47, you needed more heat once the cable bottomed out. Deal is the wire pulled the heat from the terminal and cooled the solder off too fast. Another way I know this is at the same time in the video, that wire should of went all the way into the terminal. Lastly the solder will flow out of the terminal if done properly. Recap = the solder cooled stopping your wire from going all the way down.
I knew I forgot to preheat the cable (sufficiently) when I was editing - I could see the splash but I had to leave it in since I was out of time (I used to follow a strict production schedule) and I was out of lugs besides so reshooting would have cost me another day. Sometimes filmmaking is about compromise. (Thanks for commenting!)
It's all good. Just plunge the cable while heat is applied. Then as you know with heat, the cable will sink down into the connector/terminal. They put a ton of solder in those battery terminals. Nice video sir.
also preheating cable with a torch puts corrosion on the wire
Cool I thought I was seeing s*** on my welding leads I solder all the lugs with the quick connects as soon as they lose grip that's it they're gone I guess they could be soldered but if I need to change the lead then that's a little bit trouble
All my trucks have marine posts with soldered in ring terminals for 4 gauge wire. Never had a problem. Plan in doing this in my f250 off road rig as well
Use double wall heat shrink with sealant inside, they make heat shrink tubing that includes a sealer or glue, it is the only type of heat shrink that can be considered " water proof " in my personal opinion, any soldered joint, should be cleaned with alcohol to remove left over flux as the flux itself will cause corrosion and failure of the connection.
Brass battery clamp's are the best, they have the lowest " galvanic corrosion " rate when mixed with other metals, lead, copper, aluminum, tin etc...
I guess no one ever told you about sweating the joint.... you have to keep applying heat as you solder and in some case's even after you have a good connection, so the convection currents can carry the solder all the way though the material as the material you add is usually much colder as someone else pointed out.
this is not a " critique " of your work, this is only to pass on the knowledge i have accumulated over the years......
Thanks for contributing, Larry.
Thanks for your tips. I made my heavy duty batt cable (2/0) for my jeep earlier. ;-)
+absolut - Rock on!
Interesting video. Canajun... the princess auto power fist stuff gave it away lol.
I crimp. I had a Hydraulic Crimper and found it awkward and never crimped correctly, but then it had euro sizes, not AWG. I bought the AWG Iwiss manual crimper about the same length, no ratchet with cutter combo for not much $ on Amazon and love it. Awesome crimps, no loose dies and I find it easier to use.
I gave up on marine terminals, they kept working loose. I always hated the "clamp" terminals for corrosion and water ingress to the cables causing corrosion.
I used to solder decades ago, but now do only crimp for the vast majority of connections of this type now.
Not correct, you should never solder these lugs. Industry standard is to do a full crimp with high quality tools. This would never pass an inspection and is not code compliant.
My electrical upgrade on my truck (bigger Alt) 1/0 Awg welding wire. 3 wire ground, Side post termimal post removed And 3/8 course thread bolts added for extra ground add ons Lug hammer tool used Wires were pre measured without any wire exposure Between Lug And wiring case dabbed the outter edge of the lug with dielectric grease after connection. Shrink tubed.. 3 years in still no issues And preforms better than most cars in Canadian winters
Nice!
This was very helpful. Thanks
great vid bro.....good tip on marine wire too..I inherited an 600850 ROTO CRIMP TOOL MFG: AMP TYCO ELECTRONICS and excited to use it ,,,,,it uses SOLISTRAND terminals and splices...rock on !!
+Glyn Williams - Rock on!
Excellent video for me, a DIYer learning as much as I can.
Great to hear! Welcome! My channel is made for DIYers!
Thanks for the video. I feel a little more prepared should my terminal need some reworking.
nybajan Always happy to help. Thanks for commenting (it helps me).
never would have thought of a "C"clamp to use. Great Idea.
:)
I just hold it in my hand..... LOL!
C clamp is a good idea, less heat transfer than a good vice....
great video, thanks.
:)
Thank you I was wondering why my battery terminals corroded is always giving corroded.
All in all, great video. One if not the best on youtube on the subject.
+jim davidson - Thanks Jim!
After you cut off the proper amount of insulation, and crimp the terminal onto the cable, then you can clamp the terminal into your vice and start pulling on the insulation gripping tightly but just allowing your hands to slide down the cable a foot or two. This will actually pull the end of the insulation away from the terminal in order to be able to have room to solder it, and not burn the end of the insulation. After it has cooled down some, just attach the other end of the cable to something and do the same procedure in the reverse direction until the insulation butts up against the terminal. It makes a very tight professional joint, and looks great after the heat shrink.
By the way, I have found that copper terminals will corrode quickly if around batteries. The plated ones last a whole lot longer.
Thanks for your contributions. John.
Great advise.
Thanks for posting.
I just use a vice grips to hold the wire onto the pole of the battery
Yeah i wouldn't.
It does the job if your stuck.
Ferguson 20 diesel been there a few times my self on harvest equipment to get thru the day... or week.. crap I should go see if I ever fixed that on the combine. Lmfao
great video. I see you travel in the east. have a great day
So I like this video, the cables are stripped too much but the idea of crimp and solder makes sense. Have you looked into battery slugs? They are designed pretty good. wouldn't need to crimp either!
I'll check 'em out. Thanks.
Very nice. Whence came you?
great presentation, question, a battery is 12v yet i see guys putting 4/0 is this correct?
doing jobs right always best!!
Good tips
Glad it was helpful!
Could you give your parts supply information, thanks
You said tinned bolt cable can last 10 x longer than ordinary welding cable. I'm guessing the copper color one is plain welding cable? Why is that? Is the longer lasting one also more restrictive to flow? Also, where does ofc speaker cable fall in order to the list?
Can you tell me what battery cable specifications l need for a Yamaha 55hp 2 stroke motor?
Amazon now sells hexagon hydraulic crimpers with detachable jaws for 6ga. to 2-0 cable for $40.00 they produce 5 tons of crimping force " yes they are Chinese " mine have been working perfectly for 6 month's . the crimper comes in a plastic case and is about 14" long , this is far easier to use in the bilge of a boat. R. Walters Marine Electrician
Do they even make any tools in the US anymore? Doesn't matter. The Chinese now make better ones. I recently had a toolbox full of old US tools from the 40s and 50s stolen
It made me sick. No one makes tools like that anymore. Cept maybe the Germans but they always were a bit better at engineering and quality than the US.
I found my Hydraulic supposedly 50 ton crimper worked horribly. I bought the Iwiss manual one - easier to use surprisingly and a *much* better crimp and with rotating die, no more dropping and finding dies.
The handles are about the same length too.
This is a great video whenever I'm able to afford a car this is what I'm going to do to my battery
Very well made battery cables. Thank you for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful video.I learned a lot and really liked it. But where in the world can I get those supplies? Evan a local professional electronic supply house did not have any tined cable. You said not to use the solder that is made for plumbing but you didn't say what the correct solder is called.Please give us some product names and sources.
Thanks Johnny! Try a marine hardware store.
A properly installed battery shoe should always be crimped . High amperage is capable of raising the temperature of the joint high enough to melt solder .
it's also staked/swaged.
Solder vs crimp is an age old controversy and there are lots of opinions and studies, but I prefer to think that if a crimp is done correctly the wire and the metal of the connector become homogeneous. If a connection is soldered and for some reason starts to heat up, then the integrity of the physical connection is compromised. The solder has a different electrical resistance and so therefore the electricity has a more difficult time going from wire to metal connection.
Another thing to think about is that there are no soldered connections for the HV transmission lines, all the connections are mechanical…
Just my 2 amps worth...
What's your take on soldering without a crimp? Yes I know there's a little balancing act involved I've done it both ways. Depending on application and time constraints. Anyway my initial question 100% solder without a crimp, your opinion? Thanks
I create connections for extreme duty environments like salt water commercial vessels. I try to crimp and solder everything because it works and is durable. Engineers cannot disagree strongly enough because some book says crimp only.
@@repairs101 I agree. 13 years working on battery powered industrial equipment has taught me the right way to do terminal ends. If I don't have enough time to do it right the first time, how am I going to have enough time to do it a second time?
As for solder only? Although a soldered connection has less resistance than the wire, if the circuit pulls a lot of current through the connection it can get hot, melt the solder, and come apart. Same if the solder didn't make a good connection when made.
Crimp only? A newly crimped connection has more resistance than the wire itself. As time goes on it can corrode and resistance will increase.
This is why the only proper connection is both crimped and soldered. Then sealed.
tanks ....
welcome
What is the make and model of the crimping tool in your vice?
it's a punch..
Why is the cable stripped way more than the battery terminal length? I mean a little is ok but a whole 1/4 in stripped bare is unnecessary.
WOW awesome!! but be sure your work area is well ventilated and has a fume extractor :) those fumes are nasty :)
You make a good point, Anthony. Thanks for contributing.
where did you get the solder and flux filled battery terminals from
Google search: Fusion battery terminals. You can buy some on Amazon.
Nice trick with the c clamp yo. Because I don't have a vice grip yo
This is a masterly, well done, and totally professional job of battery hookup wire making :) There seems to be a tremendous amount of controversy over crimping and shrink wrapping, or crimping AND soldering, then shrink wrapping (??) The argument I've heard against the soldering step is a soldered connection will raise the impedance of the copper wire, thus, producing heating and reduce overall efficiency. (??) I'd like to see a video test on making copper hookup wires for DC battery voltages where this is put to the test and cables made with and without soldering is tested for heating, impedance, and overall efficiency.
+Mark Job - Thanks for the comments. Mark. As far as masterly goes some viewers may disagree as I forgot to preheat the cable before sinking it into the terminal (3:44) causing a splash and an inferior bond. I know better but filmmaking and mechanic work are hard to do at the same time and still be good at both. As far as the tests go I'd be interested in seeing those results too but don't think I'm qualified to conduct an empirical study. I'm just a grunt.
+wackoguywatch if they arent soldering that does not mean best way. time is money to professionals, who may give other reasons to people why they arent taking the extra time to do something that may not matter so much in every application.
then there is that job security thing. do auto manufacturers design every part of the car to be the best it could possibly be, when a car that lasted for 50 years would put them out of business? or battery cables that went bad in 5-6 years means profits at the dealer service center?
I read on milspec that after you soldered something you should clean it with alcohol. I believe that would a be a counterword against everyone that says that you don't need to solder a crimped connection
I use acetone to clean excess flux after soldering.
I'm not telling you what to do, just showing you what I do.
My experience has led me to crimp and solder, even though engineers all say don't.
engineers are trained to sell a product not make a long lasting one
Engineers aren't trained to sell, that would be marketing. Engineers are more worried about possible future repairs and simplicity than trying to sell something.
Engineers are the bane of existence... they will over complicate something beyond belief just because... here is the thing if soldering was 99.5% as good as crimping... they will say "NO CAN'T SOLDER NO GOOD" because of that .5%...
ALSO, it takes way more time to solder something than crimp it... might even not be able to automate the soldering part... so... lets all keep that in mind...
My mil spec battery cables are not crimped can't be... one terminal has 2 wires going into 2 different holes in the terminal... with 0 indents...
I was thinking of using 2/0 but was worried it was overkill for the voltage drop the heavier cable seems negligible
You never have to worry about low loads or voltage in big wires, but you will always worry about big load and high voltage in small wire, go big or stay home, do it right the first time, besides bigger cables have much less resistance.
What brand were those preloaded terminals? Quick or Quck, or ______ and where can they be purchased?
+Ojeramup12 - they say "QUICK Fusion Solder" and I picked them up at an auto supply store in Vancouver BC
+Repairs101 Thanks!
+Ojeramup12 Amazon
also if you preheat the cable before putting it into the heated mess you will not get the spray effect and it will bond better, just not cool down that fast...
Márton Szabó Of course you're right and I know better too - running the camera can be quite a distraction. By the time I saw the footage it was too late - out of clamps and out of time. Thanks for commenting!
+Márton Szabó you have to be careful not to burn the insulation on the cable if you heat it up even with a heat gun
Screw these insecure know it all's. I say you do good quality work!
Where can I buy these connectors? Local auto parts don't carry them.
astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B01ESTFQY8
astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B01MT6CTDT
Or a large industrial supplier
Soldered connections are not allowed in aviation, only crimp. If you are using it in a stationary, non vibration application, soldering would be acceptable.
Thanks for your input!
Never leave copper exposed from oxidation
What type of solder did you use?
60/40 rosin core is what I use
Kester brand
Awesome video keep up the good work
:)
ممتاز
Oh fer fucks sake I've used "Temporary" terminal for the last 26 years without a problem, so I guess I'll just have to tell all my shit it's supposed to be breaking down.
With all the contradicting advise from the on-line experts you will now have enough ideas to do a video showing the current carrying capacity of soldered vs crimped joints. My personal non professional opinion is I do it just like you. Soldered joints may make the wire stiff near the solder, but they will work even if they get a little electrolyte on them and I've had a crimped only connection fail due to corrosion. If a soldered joint gets hot enough to melt solder due to current flow you are carrying too much current or the bolt connection next to the solder is overheating. Soldering joints doesn't raise their resistance.
Excellent video. I need to make some cable for my Car Audio power. Very helpful for this. Thank you.
Where is a good cheap place to buy cables, connectors, flux, etc.
dmmflys Princess Auto
Cables are made of copper. Sorry but copper is not cheap. Unless it's short and thin.
Little critique on the hand soldering. Keep connector down and cable up. Keeps solder where it belongs, inside the connector. Keep the heat at the lug hole if at all possible. Finally use larger solder if you can. I always wire brush off the soldered connector and wipe with an oily shop rag. Again GREAT video sir!! Lots of proper advice here people.
Thanks Jim
wish they had them for us car audio guy's with 2 inputs
DJ Rickie Ric I'm not sure I get what you're wishing for. Battery cables with two inputs?
+Repairs101 One extra conection on the plus side to get a positive wire to the trunk, where the amp is.
+Repairs101 I have a GMC diesel truck with two batteries a bypass will solve that and minimize/simplify the connection
Do what I did. Ebay for Military Spec battery lugs. A kit comes with two lugs and a black and red rubber protective covers. All super HD and both accept 2 cables ea. I paid around $20 w/ free shipping.
Wow great video. I wish i had this 5 years ago when i replaced the ground terminal on my Honda with one of those cheap temporary Motomaster terminals from CT thinking it was correctly done. Definitely bookmarking This!
Crimping and soldering should never be done on the same connection. It sounds like belt and braces, but the reality is that a properly-made crimp is a cold weld so all you are doing is increasing the likelihood of the crimp becoming microscopically loose by heating it to soldering temps.
You might never have an issue on something stationery like a solar panel installation, but if you do this on things that vibrate and move (i.e. any vehicle) then you are increasing the likelihood of it breaking over time.
Crimp (with decent ratchet or hydraulic crimpers) OR solder.
I am a Marine mechanic +25 years. Never had a problem.
The cables you made you could even sell to a german engineer!
Nice Work!
+cue108 - Thanks! That's quite a compliment ( I know some German Engineers!)
+cue108 - German engineer here! Wouldn't buy these cables. Soldered connections on a mechanically stressed joint is not a good idea. Especially on cables this size. The solder stiffens the cable, so the strains tend to break more easily. The only viable way here to establish connections like this, is crimping (according to DIN EN 60352-2).
Abcdefg Well, crimping only has a high connection resitance thus I prefer crimping for mechanical security and soldering for a lower connection resitance especially for low voltage high AMP connections. But when you can predict mechanical forces to the connection in its environment a soldered only connection is completely fine and there is no need to stress a DIN when knowing the environment of the connection.
In higer voltage lower amps environment crimping only is best choice.
A norm always tries to find a general formal appraoch. If one does not understand the domain very well, simply apply a DIN is best approach I think.
+cue108 - I don't think you are right about the resistance. Crimping (if done right) creates a gas-tight cold weld at the surface between the wire and the terminal. A proper crimp connection is completely tight and leaves no air-filled spaces behind. Therefore you have the best imaginable contact between the wire and the terminal. However, I don't know any research about this topic, therefore i cannot prove it. Maybe you're right...
+Abcdefg - So please explain how are these joints mechanically stressed. I don't know any science but in practise these cables are trouble free and the only stress applied is when you change the battery - once every 2 to 10 years. Never had a complaint about my battery cables and there are hundreds of vehicles and vessels out there with them in service.
never solder them, ever.. invest in a Hydraulic crimper 50 to 70 bucks on amazon.. it crimps from all sides
Then add solder, and marine grade heat shrink. And never have a problem again.
Solder or crimp.... Argue, argue, argue.....
Terminal ends are either made to crimp or solder, not both!!! Crimping a solder terminal can crack it... Thus ruining it
Using a punch and hammer to crimp??? No... You are distorting and stretching the socket, causing uneven contact....and probably cracking it too. A good crimper will crimp evenly, much better contact.
Just saying....only done it for about 50 years ..
Ed Gosselin
Yeah Ed 👏🏻
A proper crimp is actually called a cold weld, much much more solid and trustworthy and longlasting then any solder. Solder introduces resistance to the wire, a proper crimping does not.
soldering AND crimping!? um... no.
Made a lot of cables, Tracy? I look forward to seeing your video on the subject.
soldering prevents corrosion.
soldering and crimping? um yes
Tracy Wilson someone said thing about the Navy used to crimp and solder and now they only crimp... that's probably because of the requirement to use lead free solder which is creating a whole new problem on its own of tin whiskering.
batvette Best advise for tin whiskers (I leaned them as tin fingers), don't solder with 60/40. I remember asking my instructor why slapping on a (80s) TV could reset the pic and he said without hesitation, blame it on the missing lead. Darn microscopic crystals.
This is the farmers way of making terminations!! It is not normal to lose a few strand of wire when stripping!!! Only use these techniques in a pinch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i really like how professional this looks compared to the cheap and lazy rout
Thanks. What's the cheap & lazy way?
You forgot to put dielectric grease to the wire to make it more durable, wrote that down buddy!
The temporary conectors you mention are a standard in our country in EU...
You're really not supposed to solder battery terminals at all!!! the soldering creates a hard spot that cal lead to early fatigue, and solder'd terminals can fail earlier than just crimped due to resistance and overheating. check out ABYC on this. You've also stripped too much insulation. the insulation should butt up against the terminal to minimize the opportunity for corrosion.
Have you actually tested the resistance? All of the soldered connections I have made have less resistance than ones with a crimp connection. Just saying from my experience.
there isnt enough vibration at the end of the cable to matter. youd have to have a cold solder joint for that to happen.
Steven Dunn good point dude good point I weld for a living if them connectors aren't right it is a living nightmare trying to get an arc stabilized
Horse1066 A crimp creates a gas-tight cold weld? Who are you kidding? And as far as Engineers go.. As someone who deals with them on a constant basis and has to fix all their screw up's, They are generally some of the dumbest and most arrogant people I have ever met.
Pierre Mitham If done properly, the benefits of soldering far out weigh the disadvantages you have mentioned. On the stripped wire side, applying a heat sink while tinning the cable prevents solder from wicking under the insulation. That way, only tinned cable goes into the termination leaving the rest flexible. IF you have access to the right crimping tools by all means crimp. Many of us do not. Mechanical connections are made better by adding highly conductive solder because solder fills the voids between conductor bundles in a large cable. The more contact area you have between conductor bundles the better.
Professionally done with care and full of attention to details.
2 gauge
You do not heat the wire at all before plunging it in? Not smart
No soldering cables! Good crimping is best !copper is the best conductor not lead and tin, which are susceptible to heat! Buy a crimper ! Ask any engineer
Engineers are theorists. I have decades of practical experience as a Heavy Duty Mechanic.
Every (salt water) Marine outfit I have worked for crimps and solders battery cables.
Jezz... could you possibly do this worse?
Lugs are soldered or crimped. Never both. Nicking the conductor is absolutely not permitted. If you're going to crimp, use a crimper with the correct dye.
The Crimping is done on top of Lug, and don't solder, its to easy to break, not flexible.
Without solder it's too easy to corrode, heats up, starts fire-not connected
they dont solder cables on aircraft ,,, and watching the fitting distort as its hit with a nail punch is painful , at 3.36 you can watch the cable not go home fully ,,, why bare more cable than there is room for in the fitting and leave a gap , why not just measure from the fitting , ah well . to each their own i guess.
Why don't they solder cables on aircraft?
@@alpinewhite probably because they're worried that the mechanic won't crimp it also. If the solder doesn't make a very good connection, then it will create a hotspot melt the solder and come apart.
I would not run high loads of current through any of those cables. Best to make compression crimps with the proper tools.
This is not good advice. Use a reputable branded crimping tool and do not solder it afterwards.
What have you got against solder? I've had to replace many crimped only connections with a properly crimped and soldered and sealed connection that never had a problem again.
@@johnwyman6331 Solder makes an excellent connection (when properly done) but soldering after crimping renders the crimping useless as the gas tight connection associated with crimping is lost due to expansion. Also, capillary action of the solder causes the first two inches of cable to go rigid which can be a problem.
Use a proper hex type crimp tool and some heatshink over the lug for a professional adequate finish. Using a centre punch to crimp is a bad idea.
@@rogeronslow1498 I agree that using the proper crimping tool is highly important.
I don't understand why you feel a crimped connection is gastite, or the importance of it being gastight. If it actually was gastite, then why can a larger, more viscous molecule (liquid solder) flow between the strands? If it being gastite was important, then wouldn't solder make it more gastight?
I said I solder it, not over solder it so that it flows down the cable two inches.
You claimed it has problems if soldered. Can you elaborate?
From where have you gotten your information?
In my experience replacing thousands of bad wiring connections, and at first having to replace them again until I figured out how necessary solder, proper crimping, and adhesive filled heat shrink was, I have yet to find a better way, though I am still willing to learn something new. But it has to have some good quality information behind it, not just some unknown guy's opinion on the internet.
@@johnwyman6331 I'm following the recommendations of the lug manufacturers such as Cembre. Soldering produces an excellent connection but the solder wicks up the cable. If this is not critical in the application then it's fine but often in high vibration environments the cable will gradually break where the wicking ends.
If you heat a crimped connection significantly then the crimp is compromised.
what's the point of having such a big gap between the fitting
Prevent insulation from burning during soldering
what, no how-to for my diesel powered flashlight? pfff
***** Turbo, twin turbo or naturally aspirated?
Direct or indirect injected? With or without a pre chamber? Krypton , halogen, or LED? Dude you got to give ALL the information!
Jokari knife 😉
Gertjan Heinen Thanks Gertjan, I'll have to get one! ua-cam.com/video/HDdP9aqBJlU/v-deo.html
I belive this video content many things as how NOT to do it.
So where is your video showing us your 'right way'
Wrong
And again a vid "How to not ..."
Solder battery wire terminals proper way, with powerful enough soldering iron like 200W 500W etc. Propane - butane torches are a disaster for these as solder does no wick into the strands properly.
That;s how you do it if you're making them in the field with the tools you bought and carry.
This is terrible
That’s not the correct way to crimp cables and using a punch is substandard especially where vibrations will eventually loosen that crimps quality. It’s not usual to cut off copper strands this can have serious consequences. This video is irresponsible.
Here's how NOT to do it. I appreciate your effort but this was incorrect in several ways.
So you make a video to show us your 'right way'
The cable terminations are an absolute mess!!
WHERE IS YOUR COPPER COAT ??? OR DO YOU EVEN KNOW WHAT IT IS USED FOR ??????????? MOST PEOPLE DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS ?!?!?????????????
the best way to do this is to solder first. then you do your crimp. it's a night and day difference compared to the way you do it. my way looks better then most cheap factory crap like yours