I know you’ll all be asking why we didn’t trepan (core) the billet out. Simple answer is that our trepanning tool isn’t long enough, and we didn’t have the time to make another one. This particular part is a one off, and we usually bulk order this size billet in hollow 4140. We are in the process of making a cross slide holder for THE HULK, and a big trepanning bit to suit… But this part was three weeks overdue. Hence the insane levels of swarf…
did you thing about makeing the end/head of the trepan drill removable so you dont have to completely remake a new drill in the same size. but only he main bulk part of the body and just screw the head on ? maybe also the back of it. basicly like those drills that they use for drilling holes for putting tnt into rocks ( so you can extend it just be putting in some diffrent lenth middle peaces )
Love the work you do, I recently came across your channel and I'm a applications engineer for the company in the UK that makes these machines, Colchester! Great to see this machine in action.
As an Avid CEE fan, (Cutting Edge Engineering), Kurtis and Karen, I wholly support your channel also, New Subscriber here, long way away, UK, but machining and manufacturing are things I enjoy watching..
One more heavy machine shop ASMR channel from Australia 👍👍 I 'm finding this type of work very interesting and relaxing, have been watching CEE:s channel for several years..
Cheers mate! Glad you enjoyed the videos. I find the process of machining very relaxing. The sight and sound of it all is inherently soothing. Glad I’m not the only one 🤣✌️
Hey Hal Heavy Duty Machining Australia! Thank you for the very nice video! Because I enjoyed it so much i shall cancel my plans to out do your heavy machining feats with my mini lathe! That way your entire crew can avoid the embarrassment! ride ride ride!
That HTS drill is the go, it's what the kraken should be like. The're an absolute beast of a drill when they run properly. I worked for a company in Brisbane that had them up to 280mm diameter and could drill 3 meters, I think, deep on their drilling machine.
Cracking job I've just started a tool making apprenticeship, loving the turning! nothing as monstrous as this though it's great to see the passion well done my man lovely job
Thanks Thomas! And well done on the apprenticeship. It's such a fun career if you're curious, and a generally good problem solver. I can't remember a day when I've been bored in the shop. Appreciate the kind feedback to. Much appreciated brother.
Loving the vids, gives an old machinist a warm fuzzy feeling watching 4140 cut so clean. Not sure how many parts of this type you make but you need to release the inner David Wilkes within ya. Make a few more trepanning bars, I’m sure you have a Bridgeport mill in that shop somewhere. Save you time on production and cleaning Im sure. Plus some nice round bar for other uses.
Thanks mate! Yeah, so we're building an XL trepanning bit in the next month in preparation for future parts like this. Literally watching David's old videos at the moment as we're designing all the upgrades for THE HULK. It'll be an upcoming video for sure. I bloody love trepanning, but sadly we didn't have the time for this rush job. Can't wait to pull out a 1.2m slug next time haha!
Nice work! Yeah, I find the threading process truly mesmerising when you get the speeds / DOC just right. It just peels off perfectly and sounds like sizzling bacon
Another beautiful piece of work mate 👌 The size comparison of std to mega was unbelievable, saying little and large doesn’t really capture the overall huge scale of what you’re making there. Can’t wait for the next instalment 😊
Cheers Nick! Yeah, it's crazy when you put them side by side. The 2 7/8 IF isn't even a 'small'' thread. It's pretty standard for our mid size UDR1200 exploration rigs. We're just about to screw up the first big rod now. 9m long and a full metric ton fully assembled. Bloody insane.
Cool video! I did some machining in grad school. I loved it! Been checking out the UA-cam machining world since these metrologists and aerospace engineers took a look at some ancient Egyptian granite vases that make no sense (25 micron precision on multiple concentric cuts and reference surfaces etc) no clue how they did it*... and it got me nostalgic for the fun times i had learning about feeds n speeds in the shop! *Archeologists think guys n loincloths did it banging on rocks with other rocks with less runnout than the old Bridgeport in the student shop... in granite with 2mm diameter walls with 50 micron finishes inside and out... Learning how things are actually made is so important!
Yeah man. It’s wild. We still have absolutely no idea how the ancient cultures made that stuff. I’ve been to Bolivia, Peru & Argentina and seen places like Tiwanaku, Machu Picchu & Puma Punku and I’m utterly convinced they had tech we don’t understand. And those Egyptian stone vases that are accurate to an insane tolerances. Mind boggling!
nice to see chip guy get some camera time. all those boring bars, especially the multi-insert one, make me wonder about a boring bar w/ a step drill configuration that could make multiple cuts in one pass.
He definitely earned his keep this week! Holy crap did we have some swarf exit the building. I'm sure someone somewhere has invented such a tool. I'm amazed at the cool stuff being constantly created. It's hard to keep up!
Thanks James! Love it. Grandma was a proud Texan. Grew up in MacGregor & lived in Dallas before emmigrating with Hal (Grandad) to the land down under. She literally had a lone star poster on her office wall that said "DONT MESS WITH TEXAS" (and nobody ever did either haha!) She was one seriously tough lady.
I want to dig a trench and pit a conveyor belt under it. Directly to the recycler 😜 If we ever custom build a bigger shed (which may well happen at this rate) swarf removal is top of my list of considerations.
Really looking forward to seeing this drill in action. Hogging out 7m3 per meter of depth in a single pass is massive. Around 2000T of soil/dirt to be removed to get the 250m deep hole :O
I was thinking "Wat a solid machine to drill like that with such a big swing it must have a really good carriage" Then I saw the clamp, LOL. Old tricks never seem to disappear.
That guy in the UK who does Tree panning has some cool tooling and long laths that could make quick work of those bores and give you some nice cores to use on something in the future.
Love David Wilkes’ channel. We have a core drill, but it wasn’t big enough. A new one is in the works… but this was a rushed part. Trepanning is bloody fantastic. Def my go to for coring big billets
Haha. I was tempted. Nothing like a perfect finish. It's only a passage for air, so the bore wasn't critical... The high pressure air will smooth it out reeeeeal quick once they get drilling
@@halheavyduty Can Imagine this, that thing gonna take tough conditions. It's a nice thing to think about the further use of the work you have done especially if it is about getting water or something in need. People don't drill for fun in this size.
It’s not the tool master one, it’s another brand. The same people that own Bolt & Industrual supplies own the company. Aussie made. Seems to be pretty good gear though.
Great video !!!! But if I was doing a lot of thru drilling I would look to build a trepannig drill. To drill out the material as compared to the drill you are using . Again great video!!!
Thanks Brian. Yeah, we do use our Trepanning tool where possible, but it's max depth is 395mm. This particular part was extremely time sensitive and very behind schedule, so we didn't have time to build a new trepanning tool (I wish we did!) We are in the process of creating a much longer trepanning tool for large parts like this (It'll probalby end up as a future shop made tool vid). It's always preferrable to minimise swarf & keep the slug. If you want to check it out, you can see our current shop made tool in an earlier video ua-cam.com/video/2JHkp5JwoOk/v-deo.html
Cheers mate. Yeah, I think it'll make a great video. I havent built one yet, so I'll be watching all David Wilk's videos this week to try and create the best one possible for the kind of work we do. Will be a cracker of a project. Our little trepanning drill we've got now is aweosome, but it clearly needs a a big bro.
You get used to it. Always good to be close to the E stop in case a steady bearing breaks (which it did)... Hence the low RPM. Scary shit when you hear the pop.
Great video as always. Can you do a video on your decisions on speeds and feeds? why would you run at this settings on such a tool, compared to a tool that is longer/shorter, less/more rigid and so on? What does the tip radius of tools impact on your decisions and such ? Decitions on bit geometry, negative, vs neutral vs positive... you know..
Hey mate, yeah for sure. Will do a video on that topic in the future. It was one of the topics I was personally most curious about when I was learning the ropes early on. I always want to know WHY... not just have the answer given to me. I think it'll make a good video TBH, because I suspect a lot of machinists (and people in general) would find it interesting. I'll probably learn heaps in the comments too, as there's lots of people with heaps of experience who can no doubt give me pointers on how to improve it all - which is the end goal.
Since i have visited a machine shop 1st time, age 14 or so, early 80's ... i have a strange fascination for long, consistent shaving. You want to avoid if possible, they are super dangerous ... however, beautiful. ... I did not become a professional machinist, own only a small late for hobby purpose. And i can lift this one myself off the workbench.
My neighbour Pauly actually gave The Hulk its name! I was going to call it Gustav (after the Nile crocodile lol) Yeah, I love naming all the gear. It creates a really fun work atmosphere and keeps things creative. I much prefer to get the guys to throw a part in "The Hulk" rather than "The Green Lathe". Childish, but heck. We're all big kids on some level haha
Most say I'm the best ever at CNC Machining. People gather around to watch me perform magic. Not having a long enough trepanning tool and saying you didn't have time to make another is no excuse. Unacceptable to a master CNC Machinist!
Hahahaha! Most say I’m the most average ever at machining. People gather around me to see if it’ll crash. If I waited until I had the tools for all the random shit there drillers ask for we’d never get a hole dug 🤣🤣🤣 Lucky I’m a rank amateur at best 😉 Love the comment! Keep up the master work mate 👊 PS - We are finally building the cross slide riser / multi tool holder for The Hulk. And agreed. about bloody time.
Hey Chris, awesome to see you in the comments brother. I love your channel mate. One of the most informative and interesting on my sub list for sure. Yep. We program a lot do our stuff conversationally. It just suits the kind of work we do.
Cool. Great video. I know little about different types of metals, etc. but why not start off with some type thick "pipe" so you wouldn't have to bore so much stock out of the billet? How long does it take to bore the first hole?
We actually purchased a bulk shipment of 4140 cold rolled hollow bar for all the tooljoints, but didn't forsee needing a drive sub this big. Next time I'll be making sure we include a full extra length of hollow bar just in case (for instances like this) Unfortunately you cant buy large hollow bar 4140 steel in Australia. Which sucks. Hence why we usually use our trepanning tool to core it out (but it was too short for this odd part). Great question by the way!
I hadn’t heard of them, but after a bit of googling you’re right. They seem to do big drilling connections too. This one was designed in house, simply because there aren’t any RC tool joints that fit the parameters we needed. I like the look of their threads though. So many good manufactures out there!
Thanks Matt, that nut that you use with the window cut in is that just for testing to see the thread or is it part of the final drilling. If it is to go why do you need a window?
When we were designing the thread, we cut the window just to check thread engagement visually. The prototypes then got re-used and became our testers. It's actually really useful, and we haven't had any dramas yet. Everything screws up and the threads engage perfectly (thank god!)
Our trepanning tool wasn’t big enough for this one, and we were under serious time pressure to get the job done. Building a bigger annular cutter very soon… hard to watch 400kg of swarf get removed. Big fan of trepanning. It’s our go to for deep drilling where possible
100% We reuse all the slugs and make even more subs / gear out of them. I just hate wasting good steel! But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do to get the job done (fast).
Why do you not trepan the holes out or buy forgings? You make a lot of "similar" components, and to the same dimensions! The sheer volume of swarf (scrap) metal you make is huge! Cheers.
Yeah, it was simply due to the fact our trepanning tool isn’t long enough… and the lathe isn’t set up properly for trepanning large depths (yet) Urgent part. We debated setting it up for trepanning… but time constraints let to 400kg of swarf. Building the setup for large trepanning very soon. Painful to put that much swarf in the recycle bin
They’re just big F clamps usually used for welding. Just for extra stability to avoid vibration. Surprisingly it works extremely well. In future I’ll build a cross slide big bar & drill holder, but it got the job done for now. Despite having plenty power, The Hulk needs a toolpost upgrade for this kind of deep drilling / boring work. I’ll likely make a trepanning (core drill) as well for it. Should be fun!
@halheavyduty awesome always interesting to see what solution guys come up with. I have a little Minni lathe in my home workshop and I have a very powerful neodinium magnet that I put on my boring bar and it kills the resonance.
I need to get a magnet for this purpose. I’ve seen it done heaps of times, but haven’t yet got one. Could have used one on TINY. I think it’d make a huge difference
Would I be right thinking this is for a “raise bore”, where you drill a pilot hole down into the mine, then pull the big cutter up, to ream the hole to size, removing the cuttings from the mine below?
We’ve done raise bore previously, but this rig is designed to instead of raise bore drilling. It’s heaps faster, doesn’t require a massive surface pad, and has the benefit of not needing to transport all the cuttings up from the underground. It’s a 3m hole, drilled entirely from the surface using air (not mud).
@@halheavyduty As a retired geologist - active machinist, I know it is not sensible to have that much drilling mud, hanging above an operating mine. It will be interesting to see how it is done with compressed air from above. I just love playing with boring bars in big machines. Can you provide a reference to the compressed air technique on large diameter (geological) holes?
Thanks for explaining what this will be used for. I've been wondering! It clearly is not cheap to manufacture, but is the advantage that this will be cheaper to operate than a large core drilling system? Or will the truck mounted element reduce transport costs?
The big advantage of this setup is that it's super fast (3 weeks as compared to 3 months) to drill a comparable sized hole with current methods. Drilling on air (rather than mud) is also a major win, as it's far less environmentally impactuful, and way safer for underground personnel, as there isn't all that fluid above the hole.
@@halheavyduty And all that fluid's ability to find the fractures, cracks and seep points. What pressure air around the bit? Volume? Any suction losses? So much to know.
@@halheavyduty Im amazed that this insert does such a good job, because usually, chip breaker geometries for stainless steel didn't work so well for steel. But yes, this sandwich - coating is great, i knew it from their older M3P insert.
@@halheavyduty We mostly working on stainless steels, and some sorts are true insert killers. I usually prefer Sandvik, but that ISCAR Coating is really really great. Have a nice sunday afternoon!
Why only 2mm cut on the boring bar? Is it the machine torque or the bar deflection you are worried about? I would have thought you would max out that cutting edge.
We ended up doing a 3.5mm cut and it performed well. The major issue is we didn’t have a stable enough holding setup. We are building a cross slide holder to fix this, but yeah… any bigger (we tried) and it vibrated.
To be honest, I thought that your technical processes and the vision of technologists were much more developed , and I wanted to see something new for myself among the almost foggy albion, but alas, everything is the same, as if a pre-top enterprise of the USSR, the movement is strange, BUT I am VERY HAPPY FOR YOU and it is nice to see a working person!!
We’re pretty old school. Just heavy stuff that eventually gets destroyed down a hole. No titans of CNC here my friend… only a little Aussie machine shop doing the best with what we’ve got 🙂
@@halheavyduty I'm not trying to offend you , it's just that in our country, both small and large enterprises are charged the same taxes and development is very unstable and it seemed to me that you are better at it and therefore you can develop taking a longer period of time ( I'm talking about credit histories for a long time ) and it seemed to me that's why you will develop faster and more interesting .
Sure does. They both measure between 700-800mm and weigh about 400kg a piece. Once it gets going… it’s bloody wild at 400 rpm. Sounds like an airplane taking off 👊
The billets are machined, and we just cut a fresh steady ring each time. The stock starts at 320 and the end tool joint is 317. The Pratt Barnard chuck runs true to about 0.02mm so it works pretty well.
Great question. It's a custom in-house design. We've named it a HAL12"RC thread. We did two previous videos that give all the details if you want to check them out. About halfway down the channel vid list. Thanks for tuning in (and for the excellent question).
It’s referred to as DK100 (or simply the BIG RIG) It’s got twice the pullback (100tonnes) and four times the rotational torque of the next largest in our fleet. We call it DONKEY KONG 🤣
Could you get "hollow bar" material from the mill and eliminate the drilling and "boring"?? It seems a massive loss of good steel. I missed how you got the taper. Taper attachment? CNC programmed?
Unfortunately we can’t get 4140 hollow in Australia. We usually use a big trepanning tool to core it out, but this particular part was too long. The taper was a CNC program. We stick to CNC for repeat parts
Agreed 100% We are a bit limited by lathe power unfortunately. Looking to get a bigger one in the near future so I can push tools harder. Especially on Z axis feed
Do you know if this is the sort of hole where they drill a little ways, bring the tool back up, dump the dirt, return the tool? Or is it a different process?
The first 8m will use an auger like that to remove topsoil, but the rest will be a case of “just send it” All the way to 250m using RC air technology. The rods are so big because they have an inner & outer. The air passes down between the inner & outer tubes, and the cuttings return to the surface up the middle of the inner pipe.
seemed and sounded fine my man. though i saw that you didnt try the roughing metherd i told you about ( where your X very up and down though the part until final roughing pass ) was it a wnmg you used on the outside ? could also had put a rubber stopper/seal in the end of it. fill it with steel pelets/balls or other smallish metal things or rocks/sand ( though would keep to metal if it was me personally. so i dont interduse uncanted bacteria into my coolent ) and then anouther rubber stopper/seal to kill the vibration also. why was tiny beast leaking ? hope you have fixed the leaking by now
Haven't had a chance to test your method out yet, but i will be shortly. Fortunately we didn't have any real vibration issues on this part. The rubber and slow speed/feed seemed to do the trick.
@@halheavyduty sounds good to hear. please dont slow down the feed to much pass the recomendation. otherwise your not gonna get the propper chip formation that the insert is designed to. plus with to little pressure it dont get pushed hard enough and will just end up rubbing instead of doing what its suppose to do ( whice is whats called " plastic deformation " ) also did you guy's fix the leaks on tiny beast ?
Fixing it Monday. Just needs a bit more solder and will be fine. TINY performed pretty well on its first run. Can’t match THE BEAST for metal removal, but it’s got the reach.
@@halheavyduty good to hear m8. well tiny seems to have the advantage of being able to get into smaller holes then the beast can . could be cool to line boar some of them though ( just a though of mine )
We have no trouble sourcing solid billet 4140 as seen in the video, but for some reason in Australia we can't source 4140 hollow. It's very frustrating. For the tooljoints (there's 60 of them) we ordered billets from an international supplier. Unfortunately we didn't forsee needing to cut this monster sub, so extra steel wasn't shipped in. A mistake that we'll avoid next time by purchasing an extra full length that we can cut to size as needed. We're also about to build a large trepanning (core drill) tool for jobs like this. I hate having to wastefully remove material by drilling like this, but it was a rush part and we didn't have another option given the timeframes. Hope that answers the question. Summary: We can get steel in all sizes, as long as you want a big solid chunk.
It took a lot of calculation, but it went pretty spot on the first time. Specialising in the drilling industry means you pretty much do threads all day long. I think I've written a few hundred threading programs by now, so it was just a bigger version of the little ones. The dual torque shoulder was a first though - hence why the tester had a window milled out for inspection. Not part of the normal process, but I just wanted to be sure it was correct and had full engagement when torqued up. The API (American Petroleum Institute) thread in the pic is a 2 7/8 Internal Flush pin to pin crossover sub. It's a standard thread we use on the mid range drills (UDR1200 rigs), and is a standard across the drilling industry for a lot of rigs, especially in exploration. It's usually cut on a 114-116mm diameter billet (compared with the 320mm (13") for the HAL12" RC thread (named after Grandad). What humbles me most is that Grandad cut all our crossover subs BY HAND with HSS for nearly two deacades before we invested in the first CNC in the early 2000s. The man had such skill and patience. A true mechanical genius who deeply understood drilling to a level that I'll likely never reach. Forty years on a drill rig on three continents, drilling in the both the hottest places on earth (Simpson desert) to the very coldest (up in the Canadian arctic circle in his teens and 20s) gave him such a profound understanding of how rigs work, and how to fix them when they break. Fortunatley my father (Hal's son in law) absorbed it all and took the company from 4 rigs to 40 over the last 20 years. Working alongside such experienced, practical men is probably the best part of my job. Not a single day passes where I dont learn something new. Long answer, but I really appreciated your question! Thanks for being part of the channel mate, and keep the questions coming.
We had some teething issues with “Tiny”. Eventually we got the cuts to 5-6mm DOC per side. It actually need a proper toolpost riser like we use in the CNC It’s a project for 2025. Will make a big difference.
With cnc turning how is it with the programming could you explain how it is for someone who doesn’t really know how to program and how much time do you sit at the computer programming these parts or do you Programm those right at the machine and how do you zero your tools since I don’t really know how it’s done in a cnc lathe is there also like a laser like in cnc mills
We program the majority of the parts using the conversational Fanuc ManGuide(i) on the lathe. Most of our stuff isn't overly complicated and is quite to write up. As many of our parts are repeat parts, it doesnt matter too much if it's a slightly slower method. A program takes me about an hour to write, and half that to check / prove. Then it often gets run hundreds of times and improved as we go re feeds / speeds.
HAL ii turned your audio off & played HEARTBREAKER - Led Zeppelin over/ over & made the AMP meter WORK is that a 1/16th taper ? Matt keep on keeping on
Okay guys, non-machinist here with a (hopefully not too dumb) dumb question. When cutting the threads, after a pass is made, how does the lathe know to start the next cut in exactly the same place on the billet as the cuts before?
It's done by what's knows as a lead/Leed(not sure of spelling) screw that runs the length of the machine and a timing wheel and to operator watches the timing to start it at the same point(non cnc(computer numeric controlled) machine) on the cnc machines its all down to programming and that tells DOC(depth of cut) feed(speed of right to left) and distance from start of cut to finish length into the part
Definitely not a silly question at all. Before I started learning it the entire process was completely baffling. So once you write the program, the entire process is coded in and the tool knows exactly where to go. As long as you dont move the billet in the chuck, you can repeat the process and adjust depths etc to make it screw up. We usually do thread repairs on the manual lathes though. You can do it with a program cycle on the CNC, but it's actually easier (in my opinion) to just run them conventionally. It's pretty fun work too.
In a manual machine the spindle and tool are synced mechanically. In a cnc machine they are 'synced ' digitally and monitored many times a second for any variance. Although the machine is 'dumb' it does know where the part is and the tool (because you told it). The amazing part is not only the incredibly small tolerances it can keep but that it can repeat that over and over and adjust for tool wear, temperature changes (ambient, machine and part) and in some machines even machine wear! Cheers
You guys should build yourselves an electromagnet. A hunk of iron wrapped by a coil of copper cable and a power source with a switch to turn it on and off. You wouldn't have to shovel all those chips. Just hook it to your crane and lift them out.
@@halheavyduty actually I just looked them up. They are so cheap the only need to build would be a shape requirement saw a 1 ton for 400,00 probably US dollars. All different sizes Chinese made starting around 150.00 i might get one at those prices
Hey mate, I'm from a business in Brisbane that engineers and manufacture hydraulic bolt tensioners for applications like this. Do you have contact info, so we could share with you what we can do.
Urgent part and we didn’t have a trepanning tool long enough. That, and the lathe isn’t set up properly for a big trepanning tool (yet) Building one for future parts… but had to drill this one to get it out FAST. Great question.
I thought you would say that.David Wilkes has some great videos on UA-cam indicating how to manufacture the perfect Trepanning tool. (Not sure what happened to him, he disappeared once he closed down his shop in the UK)
Makes my life easier for sure. When I don’t give some basic commentary though… I get a LOT of comments from people with non-machining backgrounds asking questions that are reasonable. I try to keep it as minimal as possible… and try to preempt questions… and do it in blocks (so a good 5 mins at a time is just silent so we can enjoy the bloody machining) Hope that logic gives context. Perhaps I need to revisit my formula. Appreciate the feedback mate. Always open to how I can make things better on the vids
We were mostly limited by the steady when it came to speed. Ideally I would run it twice as hard. In the Hulk, when the steady goes pop you’ve got about 2 seconds before the billet decides to go for a 1 tonne walk. Typical VC we run 4140 at is 170. If say we dropped it to approx 95 for this job. But you’re right, we can run it harder.
@@halheavyduty understand about the steady. it doesnt look as robust as the rest of the machine. i got a stout machine, and a stout steady. and i got a 4 jaw. i only had a part walk one time. different setups and situations. but i do understand. when the steady interferes, bad stuff happens. i just like to see big blue chips off a big chunk of 4140. i dont have patience for anything else. but hey. if its gonna jump out. well. do what you gotta do. what kind of machine is the hulk? i couldnt clearly see the name plate. i drive a poreba and i gotta say, that thing has got some balls. 12 mm cut? no problem. wont back down. chews stainless like its butter.
Im with you all the way when it comes to heavy cuts and big blue chips. It’s a 30 year old Spanish Guruptze megabore. We cut heavy and hard when it’s grabbed with both chucks… but the steady just isn’t as robust as I’d like. Do you have a model number of your machine? Really curious to learn more! Appreciate the comment bro. Clearly you know your shit when it comes to heavy machining 👊💯
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I know you’ll all be asking why we didn’t trepan (core) the billet out.
Simple answer is that our trepanning tool isn’t long enough, and we didn’t have the time to make another one.
This particular part is a one off, and we usually bulk order this size billet in hollow 4140.
We are in the process of making a cross slide holder for THE HULK, and a big trepanning bit to suit…
But this part was three weeks overdue. Hence the insane levels of swarf…
Just read this, answered my question, thanks.
did you thing about makeing the end/head of the trepan drill removable so you dont have to completely remake a new drill in the same size. but only he main bulk part of the body and just screw the head on ? maybe also the back of it. basicly like those drills that they use for drilling holes for putting tnt into rocks ( so you can extend it just be putting in some diffrent lenth middle peaces )
Merhaba KOLAY GELSIN
KULLANDIGIN SU NEDIR
KÜF PAS OLMUYORMU
NE VAR BU SU ICINIDE
Love the work you do, I recently came across your channel and I'm a applications engineer for the company in the UK that makes these machines, Colchester! Great to see this machine in action.
Hy mate Ben from Cabide collect here in Brisbane mate where can I find your contact details just can't find them even on a google search
As an Avid CEE fan, (Cutting Edge Engineering), Kurtis and Karen, I wholly support your channel also, New Subscriber here, long way away, UK, but machining and manufacturing are things I enjoy watching..
Thanks mate. Really appreciate the support
One more heavy machine shop ASMR channel from Australia 👍👍
I 'm finding this type of work very interesting and relaxing, have been watching CEE:s channel for several years..
Cheers mate! Glad you enjoyed the videos. I find the process of machining very relaxing. The sight and sound of it all is inherently soothing. Glad I’m not the only one 🤣✌️
Yeah, Kurtis is a bloody legend. Not so much ASMR, but I dig it.
Hey Hal Heavy Duty Machining Australia! Thank you for the very nice video! Because I enjoyed it so much i shall cancel my plans to out do your heavy machining feats with my mini lathe! That way your entire crew can avoid the embarrassment! ride ride ride!
Hahaha. Love it! Cheers Eric.
That HTS drill is the go, it's what the kraken should be like. The're an absolute beast of a drill when they run properly. I worked for a company in Brisbane that had them up to 280mm diameter and could drill 3 meters, I think, deep on their drilling machine.
It’s a bloody wonderful tool. So impressed with how it ran. Yeah wow. 280 to 3m is impressive.
Ez az bő hűtés , szinte a legfontosabb , gyönyörű menet !!!
💯👊
Cracking job I've just started a tool making apprenticeship, loving the turning! nothing as monstrous as this though it's great to see the passion well done my man lovely job
Thanks Thomas! And well done on the apprenticeship. It's such a fun career if you're curious, and a generally good problem solver. I can't remember a day when I've been bored in the shop. Appreciate the kind feedback to. Much appreciated brother.
Love that HTS Drill.
Same. Big fan of them.
Loving the vids, gives an old machinist a warm fuzzy feeling watching 4140 cut so clean. Not sure how many parts of this type you make but you need to release the inner David Wilkes within ya. Make a few more trepanning bars, I’m sure you have a Bridgeport mill in that shop somewhere. Save you time on production and cleaning Im sure. Plus some nice round bar for other uses.
Thanks mate! Yeah, so we're building an XL trepanning bit in the next month in preparation for future parts like this.
Literally watching David's old videos at the moment as we're designing all the upgrades for THE HULK. It'll be an upcoming video for sure.
I bloody love trepanning, but sadly we didn't have the time for this rush job. Can't wait to pull out a 1.2m slug next time haha!
Those Nickel alloys ( Inconel) David Wilkes machined were mighty impressive, slow and hard seems the method.
That’s some amazing work you all do and thank you for sharing from the good old USA. 🇺🇸
Cheers mate! Where in the USA are you located?
This stuff is absolutely amazing cannot wait till it is in operation !!!!!
Thanks mate. Me too!
Great stuff! That lathe and tooling are truly awesome.
Cheers mate! 👍 it’s been a work in progress but I’m really happy with what it can do now
Excellent. Well done man. Just got done with similar thread - 6in casing, male/female. Gotta love those curls.
Nice work! Yeah, I find the threading process truly mesmerising when you get the speeds / DOC just right. It just peels off perfectly and sounds like sizzling bacon
Very nice work, great surface finish!
Thank you! I'm really happy with how the part turned out. Cheers Greg.
Another beautiful piece of work mate 👌
The size comparison of std to mega was unbelievable, saying little and large doesn’t really capture the overall huge scale of what you’re making there. Can’t wait for the next instalment 😊
Cheers Nick! Yeah, it's crazy when you put them side by side. The 2 7/8 IF isn't even a 'small'' thread. It's pretty standard for our mid size UDR1200 exploration rigs.
We're just about to screw up the first big rod now.
9m long and a full metric ton fully assembled.
Bloody insane.
@@halheavyduty holy moly 😲
Yup. Wild
Cool video! I did some machining in grad school. I loved it! Been checking out the UA-cam machining world since these metrologists and aerospace engineers took a look at some ancient Egyptian granite vases that make no sense (25 micron precision on multiple concentric cuts and reference surfaces etc) no clue how they did it*... and it got me nostalgic for the fun times i had learning about feeds n speeds in the shop!
*Archeologists think guys n loincloths did it banging on rocks with other rocks with less runnout than the old Bridgeport in the student shop... in granite with 2mm diameter walls with 50 micron finishes inside and out...
Learning how things are actually made is so important!
Yeah man. It’s wild. We still have absolutely no idea how the ancient cultures made that stuff.
I’ve been to Bolivia, Peru & Argentina and seen places like Tiwanaku, Machu Picchu & Puma Punku and I’m utterly convinced they had tech we don’t understand.
And those Egyptian stone vases that are accurate to an insane tolerances. Mind boggling!
That one turned out well,nice vid as always.
Cheers brother!
Awesome 👍😎
Thanks mate! 💯
I still remember when I had to machine the first 1000kg part all on my own on my CTX 2000; makes you triple check everything; awesome stuff!
I know right. I’m much less casual when a tonne of steel is going for a ride 🤣
Us drillers don’t break stuff, just quality assurance 🤣🤣🤣🍺🍺
🤣🤣🤣
We have some very skilled QA officers in that case.
@ 🤣
G’Day Matt!
Hey there mate!
Massive and Marvelous!
Cheers mate!
nice to see chip guy get some camera time. all those boring bars, especially the multi-insert one, make me wonder about a boring bar w/ a step drill configuration that could make multiple cuts in one pass.
He definitely earned his keep this week! Holy crap did we have some swarf exit the building. I'm sure someone somewhere has invented such a tool. I'm amazed at the cool stuff being constantly created. It's hard to keep up!
OMG!!! The sizr of that boring bar!
It's a fair chunk of metal. There's way bigger out there, but ol' TINY gets the job done.
looks super good..can't find any fault👍👍👍👍
👊👊✌️
Thank you for explaining what the 3meter drill was designed for. I have a feeling that it will be used to bore a rescue shaft too soon.
Fortunately they’re digging them in advance (in case of emergency)
It’s going to be a rig in high demand I suspect
Cheers mate great build series, subbed from Houston
Thanks James! Love it. Grandma was a proud Texan. Grew up in MacGregor & lived in Dallas before emmigrating with Hal (Grandad) to the land down under.
She literally had a lone star poster on her office wall that said "DONT MESS WITH TEXAS" (and nobody ever did either haha!)
She was one seriously tough lady.
"BIG T" name suggestion for type new HTS drill, impressive drilling, earned its place on first job.
Great work and video, thanks for sharing
Cheers mate. Thanks for the kind feedback. Looked good until the drillers got near it 🤣🤣🤣
NIce video....nice editing....big chips are always good
Thanks mate! Appreciate it.
Yup. Love the big chips 100%
Have you guys thought about putting some kind of auger under the hulk to remove the swarf easier
I want to dig a trench and pit a conveyor belt under it. Directly to the recycler 😜
If we ever custom build a bigger shed (which may well happen at this rate) swarf removal is top of my list of considerations.
It seems Tiny will need a bit of repair when you get the chance. Beauty of a taper thread.
Yep. Definitely a little repair needed. Big guy sprung a leak 🤣
Really looking forward to seeing this drill in action. Hogging out 7m3 per meter of depth in a single pass is massive. Around 2000T of soil/dirt to be removed to get the 250m deep hole :O
It’s going to be a wild one to watch. Can’t wait 💯
I was thinking "Wat a solid machine to drill like that with such a big swing it must have a really good carriage" Then I saw the clamp, LOL. Old tricks never seem to disappear.
F clamps for the win 🤣
Exelente trabajo amigos me encanto el proceso saludos de Torreón Coahuila Mexico
Muchas gracias amigo!
Very cool bro, the breakthrough sequence. ✊🏻
Cheers brother!
Very satisfying drilling tools
Thanks mate. I find them mesmerising to watch. Especially when you hit the sweet spot for feed / speed and it just chips off like it should.
Nice work
Cheers Josh!
That guy in the UK who does Tree panning has some cool tooling and long laths that could make quick work of those bores and give you some nice cores to use on something in the future.
Love David Wilkes’ channel. We have a core drill, but it wasn’t big enough. A new one is in the works… but this was a rushed part.
Trepanning is bloody fantastic. Def my go to for coring big billets
Nice work
Lovely Maschine
Brings me back to the time as a trainee.
Would like to give the bore a good honing even it's not necessarily 😅
G'Day Matt ✌️
Haha. I was tempted. Nothing like a perfect finish. It's only a passage for air, so the bore wasn't critical... The high pressure air will smooth it out reeeeeal quick once they get drilling
@@halheavyduty
Can Imagine this, that thing gonna take tough conditions.
It's a nice thing to think about the further use of the work you have done especially if it is about getting water or something in need.
People don't drill for fun in this size.
Yeah, its nice to know that what you do ultimately matters. Water boring has always been the bedrock of the business, and for good reason.
amazing to watch cheers
Thanks Ian!
lot of trust in that toolmaster live centre lol
It’s an Aussie brand funnily enough. Daintree. Rated to 4.5 tonnes at 250 RPM.
Still ran a steady though. Trust… but have a backup 💯🤣
@@halheavyduty does hairy Forbes rebrand them then? I thought the TM lives were Taiwan?
It’s not the tool master one, it’s another brand. The same people that own Bolt & Industrual supplies own the company. Aussie made. Seems to be pretty good gear though.
Great video !!!! But if I was doing a lot of thru drilling I would look to build a trepannig drill. To drill out the material as compared to the drill you are using . Again great video!!!
Thanks Brian.
Yeah, we do use our Trepanning tool where possible, but it's max depth is 395mm.
This particular part was extremely time sensitive and very behind schedule, so we didn't have time to build a new trepanning tool (I wish we did!)
We are in the process of creating a much longer trepanning tool for large parts like this (It'll probalby end up as a future shop made tool vid). It's always preferrable to minimise swarf & keep the slug.
If you want to check it out, you can see our current shop made tool in an earlier video ua-cam.com/video/2JHkp5JwoOk/v-deo.html
Thanks for the reply , I look forward to seeing the video on the trepan drill being fabricated. Again great work!!
Cheers mate. Yeah, I think it'll make a great video. I havent built one yet, so I'll be watching all David Wilk's videos this week to try and create the best one possible for the kind of work we do.
Will be a cracker of a project. Our little trepanning drill we've got now is aweosome, but it clearly needs a a big bro.
The face-high chuck on the green monster, with that one ton billet ?
I'd be a little jumpy, standing next to that operation....
You get used to it. Always good to be close to the E stop in case a steady bearing breaks (which it did)...
Hence the low RPM. Scary shit when you hear the pop.
@@halheavyduty All the side tourqe did it in, or was it the constant pressure to support. Which bearing? Top, back or front?
The bottom bearing closest to the operator. In my experience it’s usually the first to fail.
Great video as always. Can you do a video on your decisions on speeds and feeds? why would you run at this settings on such a tool, compared to a tool that is longer/shorter, less/more rigid and so on? What does the tip radius of tools impact on your decisions and such ? Decitions on bit geometry, negative, vs neutral vs positive... you know..
Hey mate, yeah for sure.
Will do a video on that topic in the future. It was one of the topics I was personally most curious about when I was learning the ropes early on. I always want to know WHY... not just have the answer given to me.
I think it'll make a good video TBH, because I suspect a lot of machinists (and people in general) would find it interesting. I'll probably learn heaps in the comments too, as there's lots of people with heaps of experience who can no doubt give me pointers on how to improve it all - which is the end goal.
Since i have visited a machine shop 1st time, age 14 or so, early 80's ... i have a strange fascination for long, consistent shaving. You want to avoid if possible, they are super dangerous ... however, beautiful. ... I did not become a professional machinist, own only a small late for hobby purpose. And i can lift this one myself off the workbench.
Nice work. Machining is machining… size doesn’t matter. If it’s spinning - you’re winning 👊💯
Is it called the hulk because its green and powerful?
Do love that you name everything :)
My neighbour Pauly actually gave The Hulk its name! I was going to call it Gustav (after the Nile crocodile lol)
Yeah, I love naming all the gear. It creates a really fun work atmosphere and keeps things creative. I much prefer to get the guys to throw a part in "The Hulk" rather than "The Green Lathe".
Childish, but heck. We're all big kids on some level haha
Nice one! 👍 - some serious metal removal there.
Wondering how you got the coolant leak on the boring bar?
All the best,
Paul
I tried to use less solder this time… clearly worked 🤣
Will be sorting it this week.
I think you should name one of your big boring bars, BERTHA !
A fantastic suggestion.
Big Bertha is a winner 💯
@@halheavyduty I was hoping you might like that.
Most say I'm the best ever at CNC Machining. People gather around to watch me perform magic. Not having a long enough trepanning tool and saying you didn't have time to make another is no excuse. Unacceptable to a master CNC Machinist!
Hahahaha!
Most say I’m the most average ever at machining. People gather around me to see if it’ll crash.
If I waited until I had the tools for all the random shit there drillers ask for we’d never get a hole dug 🤣🤣🤣
Lucky I’m a rank amateur at best 😉
Love the comment! Keep up the master work mate 👊
PS - We are finally building the cross slide riser / multi tool holder for The Hulk. And agreed. about bloody time.
@@halheavyduty I would hope that guy's ego doesn't affect his work.
Just stumbled upon your channel. Always good to see other people machine some big parts. Did I see you using fanuc manual guide?
Hey Chris, awesome to see you in the comments brother. I love your channel mate. One of the most informative and interesting on my sub list for sure.
Yep. We program a lot do our stuff conversationally. It just suits the kind of work we do.
Amazing ingenuity. Where there's the will, there's a way.
100%. - thanks for tuning in, and for all the insightful comments brother.
Appreciate it 👊
Cool. Great video. I know little about different types of metals, etc. but why not start off with some type thick "pipe" so you wouldn't have to bore so much stock out of the billet? How long does it take to bore the first hole?
We actually purchased a bulk shipment of 4140 cold rolled hollow bar for all the tooljoints, but didn't forsee needing a drive sub this big.
Next time I'll be making sure we include a full extra length of hollow bar just in case (for instances like this)
Unfortunately you cant buy large hollow bar 4140 steel in Australia. Which sucks. Hence why we usually use our trepanning tool to core it out (but it was too short for this odd part).
Great question by the way!
That looks like you're cutting the Grant Prideco HT connections on that piece.
I hadn’t heard of them, but after a bit of googling you’re right. They seem to do big drilling connections too.
This one was designed in house, simply because there aren’t any RC tool joints that fit the parameters we needed.
I like the look of their threads though. So many good manufactures out there!
Thanks Matt, that nut that you use with the window cut in is that just for testing to see the thread or is it part of the final drilling. If it is to go why do you need a window?
When we were designing the thread, we cut the window just to check thread engagement visually. The prototypes then got re-used and became our testers. It's actually really useful, and we haven't had any dramas yet. Everything screws up and the threads engage perfectly (thank god!)
@@halheavyduty Matt, I'm not a lather, however there is always something new to learn from your channel - Thanks
Cheers Colin. Glad you find it interesting my friend 👊🙏
Could you use a very large / deep annular cutter to bore out the center ?
That would save A LOT of steel.
Our trepanning tool wasn’t big enough for this one, and we were under serious time pressure to get the job done.
Building a bigger annular cutter very soon… hard to watch 400kg of swarf get removed.
Big fan of trepanning. It’s our go to for deep drilling where possible
@@halheavyduty Yea I'd be happy to get the slugs for making stuff in my lathe :)
100%
We reuse all the slugs and make even more subs / gear out of them. I just hate wasting good steel! But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do to get the job done (fast).
@@halheavyduty that’s a lot of steel, my entire lathe is about 600 kg 😀
Many many swarf bins were emptied that day 🤣🥲
Why do you not trepan the holes out or buy forgings? You make a lot of "similar" components, and to the same dimensions! The sheer volume of swarf (scrap) metal you make is huge! Cheers.
He does trepan when he can for this reason.
Yeah, it was simply due to the fact our trepanning tool isn’t long enough… and the lathe isn’t set up properly for trepanning large depths (yet)
Urgent part. We debated setting it up for trepanning… but time constraints let to 400kg of swarf.
Building the setup for large trepanning very soon. Painful to put that much swarf in the recycle bin
What does the big clamps help accomplish? The clamps You guys use on the cross slide
They’re just big F clamps usually used for welding. Just for extra stability to avoid vibration. Surprisingly it works extremely well.
In future I’ll build a cross slide big bar & drill holder, but it got the job done for now.
Despite having plenty power, The Hulk needs a toolpost upgrade for this kind of deep drilling / boring work.
I’ll likely make a trepanning (core drill) as well for it. Should be fun!
@halheavyduty awesome always interesting to see what solution guys come up with. I have a little Minni lathe in my home workshop and I have a very powerful neodinium magnet that I put on my boring bar and it kills the resonance.
I need to get a magnet for this purpose. I’ve seen it done heaps of times, but haven’t yet got one.
Could have used one on TINY. I think it’d make a huge difference
@halheavyduty I was very surprised by how well it worked. On my mini late woth a 25mm bar I use a 50mm OD 20mm thick Neodinium magnet.
Love it.
Need another tool post on the back side to follow and make a deeper pass, twice the chips!
👊👊
Would I be right thinking this is for a “raise bore”, where you drill a pilot hole down into the mine, then pull the big cutter up, to ream the hole to size, removing the cuttings from the mine below?
We’ve done raise bore previously, but this rig is designed to instead of raise bore drilling.
It’s heaps faster, doesn’t require a massive surface pad, and has the benefit of not needing to transport all the cuttings up from the underground.
It’s a 3m hole, drilled entirely from the surface using air (not mud).
@@halheavyduty As a retired geologist - active machinist, I know it is not sensible to have that much drilling mud, hanging above an operating mine. It will be interesting to see how it is done with compressed air from above. I just love playing with boring bars in big machines. Can you provide a reference to the compressed air technique on large diameter (geological) holes?
Thanks for explaining what this will be used for. I've been wondering! It clearly is not cheap to manufacture, but is the advantage that this will be cheaper to operate than a large core drilling system? Or will the truck mounted element reduce transport costs?
The big advantage of this setup is that it's super fast (3 weeks as compared to 3 months) to drill a comparable sized hole with current methods.
Drilling on air (rather than mud) is also a major win, as it's far less environmentally impactuful, and way safer for underground personnel, as there isn't all that fluid above the hole.
@@halheavyduty And all that fluid's ability to find the fractures, cracks and seep points. What pressure air around the bit? Volume? Any suction losses? So much to know.
I’ll be covering it all in a future video for sure.
Great job. Do you use an ISCAR IC907 to turn steel? Or does this insert just look similar?
Well spotted. We just started using a new insert coating from Iscsr and it’s unreal.
@@halheavyduty Im amazed that this insert does such a good job, because usually, chip breaker geometries for stainless steel didn't work so well for steel. But yes, this sandwich - coating is great, i knew it from their older M3P insert.
When I first took a look at the insert I was bloody skeptical. It just looked too delicate. Man was I wrong.
They go HARD!
@@halheavyduty We mostly working on stainless steels, and some sorts are true insert killers. I usually prefer Sandvik, but that ISCAR Coating is really really great.
Have a nice sunday afternoon!
I can only imagine. I much prefer 4140 to stainless. Some of it is NASTY!
Why only 2mm cut on the boring bar? Is it the machine torque or the bar deflection you are worried about? I would have thought you would max out that cutting edge.
We ended up doing a 3.5mm cut and it performed well. The major issue is we didn’t have a stable enough holding setup.
We are building a cross slide holder to fix this, but yeah… any bigger (we tried) and it vibrated.
Chips ahoy!! Do you have a large tail stock 4 jaw chuck?
We don’t have one got the big CNC, but the little one does.
To be honest, I thought that your technical processes and the vision of technologists were much more developed , and I wanted to see something new for myself among the almost foggy albion, but alas, everything is the same, as if a pre-top enterprise of the USSR, the movement is strange, BUT I am VERY HAPPY FOR YOU and it is nice to see a working person!!
We’re pretty old school. Just heavy stuff that eventually gets destroyed down a hole.
No titans of CNC here my friend… only a little Aussie machine shop doing the best with what we’ve got 🙂
@@halheavyduty I'm not trying to offend you , it's just that in our country, both small and large enterprises are charged the same taxes and development is very unstable and it seemed to me that you are better at it and therefore you can develop taking a longer period of time ( I'm talking about credit histories for a long time ) and it seemed to me that's why you will develop faster and more interesting .
Does Hulk have a rear chuck?
Sure does. They both measure between 700-800mm and weigh about 400kg a piece.
Once it gets going… it’s bloody wild at 400 rpm. Sounds like an airplane taking off 👊
How do you true the stock in a 3 jaw chuck, and on a steady rest?
The billets are machined, and we just cut a fresh steady ring each time.
The stock starts at 320 and the end tool joint is 317.
The Pratt Barnard chuck runs true to about 0.02mm so it works pretty well.
Fantastic job.
What is the final weight of the part.
900 kg to begin ....
Just under 400kg
Bonsoir bonjour on vous apprécie jusqu'au Mali waouh nous applaudissements à vous sadio Cissé machiniste
Thank you 🙏
What is the name for the thread you cut? It would be nice to see the code and a better explanation about it from you 😃. Cheers.
Great question. It's a custom in-house design. We've named it a HAL12"RC thread. We did two previous videos that give all the details if you want to check them out. About halfway down the channel vid list. Thanks for tuning in (and for the excellent question).
fab video matt, really interesting. i would love to be your scrap metal dealer 🤣 whats powering this huge drill? has anyone named the final rig yet?
It’s referred to as DK100 (or simply the BIG RIG)
It’s got twice the pullback (100tonnes) and four times the rotational torque of the next largest in our fleet.
We call it DONKEY KONG 🤣
Could you get "hollow bar" material from the mill and eliminate the drilling and "boring"??
It seems a massive loss of good steel.
I missed how you got the taper. Taper attachment? CNC programmed?
Unfortunately we can’t get 4140 hollow in Australia. We usually use a big trepanning tool to core it out, but this particular part was too long.
The taper was a CNC program. We stick to CNC for repeat parts
CEE (Kurtis) has mentioned getting hollow bar for different jobs he has worked. You might give him a jingle.
The HTS Drill could use a little heavier feedrate.
Agreed 100%
We are a bit limited by lathe power unfortunately. Looking to get a bigger one in the near future so I can push tools harder. Especially on Z axis feed
Wouldn't a chip hook work better than grabbing the chip by hand during threading?
We usually use the “swarfle” but it just kinda happened by hand on that day.
What do you gotta hold on that?
A set of one tonne rods that drive a 3m (18 tonne) mega drill
Do you know if this is the sort of hole where they drill a little ways, bring the tool back up, dump the dirt, return the tool? Or is it a different process?
The first 8m will use an auger like that to remove topsoil, but the rest will be a case of “just send it”
All the way to 250m using RC air technology. The rods are so big because they have an inner & outer.
The air passes down between the inner & outer tubes, and the cuttings return to the surface up the middle of the inner pipe.
@@halheavyduty Oh clever, that’s going to be a decent pile of gravel when they’re done.
She’ll be a fair little mountain by the end 🤣
seemed and sounded fine my man. though i saw that you didnt try the roughing metherd i told you about ( where your X very up and down though the part until final roughing pass ) was it a wnmg you used on the outside ?
could also had put a rubber stopper/seal in the end of it. fill it with steel pelets/balls or other smallish metal things or rocks/sand ( though would keep to metal if it was me personally. so i dont interduse uncanted bacteria into my coolent ) and then anouther rubber stopper/seal to kill the vibration
also. why was tiny beast leaking ? hope you have fixed the leaking by now
Haven't had a chance to test your method out yet, but i will be shortly. Fortunately we didn't have any real vibration issues on this part. The rubber and slow speed/feed seemed to do the trick.
@@halheavyduty sounds good to hear. please dont slow down the feed to much pass the recomendation. otherwise your not gonna get the propper chip formation that the insert is designed to. plus with to little pressure it dont get pushed hard enough and will just end up rubbing instead of doing what its suppose to do ( whice is whats called " plastic deformation " )
also did you guy's fix the leaks on tiny beast ?
Fixing it Monday. Just needs a bit more solder and will be fine.
TINY performed pretty well on its first run. Can’t match THE BEAST for metal removal, but it’s got the reach.
@@halheavyduty good to hear m8. well tiny seems to have the advantage of being able to get into smaller holes then the beast can . could be cool to line boar some of them though ( just a though of mine )
where in australia are you
In Rockhampton mate 👍
The Dragon Blood coolant looks weaker than I remember... probably due to the Direwolf at 7:01 😮
The mix was getting a little weak. Sacrificed a few Pink Panthers and it's back to its proper strength.
Do you have difficulty finding the raw material?
We have no trouble sourcing solid billet 4140 as seen in the video, but for some reason in Australia we can't source 4140 hollow. It's very frustrating.
For the tooljoints (there's 60 of them) we ordered billets from an international supplier. Unfortunately we didn't forsee needing to cut this monster sub, so extra steel wasn't shipped in. A mistake that we'll avoid next time by purchasing an extra full length that we can cut to size as needed.
We're also about to build a large trepanning (core drill) tool for jobs like this. I hate having to wastefully remove material by drilling like this, but it was a rush part and we didn't have another option given the timeframes.
Hope that answers the question.
Summary: We can get steel in all sizes, as long as you want a big solid chunk.
If that drill's not got a name yet, it should be 'biggus drillus'🤣
Drillus Maximus
Hoping y’all have access to getting some video of this monster doing it’s thing, once it’s on site.
Oops, posted before the end…
It’ll get it’s own full vid in operation for sure. Can’t wait to see it working
whats the name of the cutting oil
It’s called Holemaker by ITM
What happened to the pink lemonade?
Nothing?! Still flowing in all it forbidden glory
Hi Matt, Seriously impressive stuff. How many tries did you have to get the thread correct, bet it was a few?. lol. API?. Best wishes, Mal.
It took a lot of calculation, but it went pretty spot on the first time. Specialising in the drilling industry means you pretty much do threads all day long. I think I've written a few hundred threading programs by now, so it was just a bigger version of the little ones.
The dual torque shoulder was a first though - hence why the tester had a window milled out for inspection. Not part of the normal process, but I just wanted to be sure it was correct and had full engagement when torqued up.
The API (American Petroleum Institute) thread in the pic is a 2 7/8 Internal Flush pin to pin crossover sub. It's a standard thread we use on the mid range drills (UDR1200 rigs), and is a standard across the drilling industry for a lot of rigs, especially in exploration.
It's usually cut on a 114-116mm diameter billet (compared with the 320mm (13") for the HAL12" RC thread (named after Grandad).
What humbles me most is that Grandad cut all our crossover subs BY HAND with HSS for nearly two deacades before we invested in the first CNC in the early 2000s. The man had such skill and patience. A true mechanical genius who deeply understood drilling to a level that I'll likely never reach.
Forty years on a drill rig on three continents, drilling in the both the hottest places on earth (Simpson desert) to the very coldest (up in the Canadian arctic circle in his teens and 20s) gave him such a profound understanding of how rigs work, and how to fix them when they break.
Fortunatley my father (Hal's son in law) absorbed it all and took the company from 4 rigs to 40 over the last 20 years.
Working alongside such experienced, practical men is probably the best part of my job. Not a single day passes where I dont learn something new.
Long answer, but I really appreciated your question! Thanks for being part of the channel mate, and keep the questions coming.
When your tailstock is bigger than most folks 3 jaw chucks......
🤣💯
Don’t understand the small depth of cut on the heavy boring bar!
We had some teething issues with “Tiny”.
Eventually we got the cuts to 5-6mm DOC per side. It actually need a proper toolpost riser like we use in the CNC
It’s a project for 2025. Will make a big difference.
I used to wrap lead strips around the work piece or boring bar.
A bloody good idea
With cnc turning how is it with the programming could you explain how it is for someone who doesn’t really know how to program and how much time do you sit at the computer programming these parts or do you Programm those right at the machine and how do you zero your tools since I don’t really know how it’s done in a cnc lathe is there also like a laser like in cnc mills
We program the majority of the parts using the conversational Fanuc ManGuide(i) on the lathe. Most of our stuff isn't overly complicated and is quite to write up. As many of our parts are repeat parts, it doesnt matter too much if it's a slightly slower method. A program takes me about an hour to write, and half that to check / prove. Then it often gets run hundreds of times and improved as we go re feeds / speeds.
HAL ii turned your audio off & played HEARTBREAKER - Led Zeppelin over/ over & made the AMP meter WORK is that a 1/16th taper ? Matt keep on keeping on
Love it! Great song choice. It's a 3 degree taper on the thread. Thanks for the encouragement too. Glad you enjoyed the vid brother.
Okay guys, non-machinist here with a (hopefully not too dumb) dumb question. When cutting the threads, after a pass is made, how does the lathe know to start the next cut in exactly the same place on the billet as the cuts before?
It's done by what's knows as a lead/Leed(not sure of spelling) screw that runs the length of the machine and a timing wheel and to operator watches the timing to start it at the same point(non cnc(computer numeric controlled) machine) on the cnc machines its all down to programming and that tells DOC(depth of cut) feed(speed of right to left) and distance from start of cut to finish length into the part
@@Shadowhawk27 okay that makes sense. Thanks for the answer. 👍🏻
Definitely not a silly question at all. Before I started learning it the entire process was completely baffling.
So once you write the program, the entire process is coded in and the tool knows exactly where to go. As long as you dont move the billet in the chuck, you can repeat the process and adjust depths etc to make it screw up.
We usually do thread repairs on the manual lathes though. You can do it with a program cycle on the CNC, but it's actually easier (in my opinion) to just run them conventionally.
It's pretty fun work too.
@dwjr5129 I'm not a machinest btw just watch alot of hal heavy duty, Curtis from CEE and a few others n pick up knowledge for my ADHD brain
In a manual machine the spindle and tool are synced mechanically. In a cnc machine they are 'synced ' digitally and monitored many times a second for any variance. Although the machine is 'dumb' it does know where the part is and the tool (because you told it). The amazing part is not only the incredibly small tolerances it can keep but that it can repeat that over and over and adjust for tool wear, temperature changes (ambient, machine and part) and in some machines even machine wear! Cheers
Can you add bananas measurements for us Neanderthals?
Sure can
You guys should build yourselves an electromagnet. A hunk of iron wrapped by a coil of copper cable and a power source with a switch to turn it on and off. You wouldn't have to shovel all those chips. Just hook it to your crane and lift them out.
Not a bad idea at all. We sure have a bloody lot of the stuff to deal with lately!
@@halheavyduty actually I just looked them up. They are so cheap the only need to build would be a shape requirement saw a 1 ton for 400,00 probably US dollars. All different sizes Chinese made starting around 150.00 i might get one at those prices
Is Kurtis there ? 😂
I reckon he’d have a blast playing around on The Hulk
Hey mate, I'm from a business in Brisbane that engineers and manufacture hydraulic bolt tensioners for applications like this. Do you have contact info, so we could share with you what we can do.
Hey mate, sounds good. If you send me an email to halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com I'll be in touch. Cheers.
Lathe is so big you use a framing square. Lol
It does the job 🤣✌️
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, why didn't you use a Trepanning tool to remove the material?
Urgent part and we didn’t have a trepanning tool long enough. That, and the lathe isn’t set up properly for a big trepanning tool (yet)
Building one for future parts… but had to drill this one to get it out FAST.
Great question.
I thought you would say that.David Wilkes has some great videos on UA-cam indicating how to manufacture the perfect Trepanning tool. (Not sure what happened to him, he disappeared once he closed down his shop in the UK)
His last video closing the shop was hard to watch. He made such a great contribution with all those videos.
And had such a dry sense of humor
The best videos are the ones without any dialog. Hope this helps.
Makes my life easier for sure.
When I don’t give some basic commentary though… I get a LOT of comments from people with non-machining backgrounds asking questions that are reasonable.
I try to keep it as minimal as possible… and try to preempt questions… and do it in blocks (so a good 5 mins at a time is just silent so we can enjoy the bloody machining)
Hope that logic gives context. Perhaps I need to revisit my formula.
Appreciate the feedback mate.
Always open to how I can make things better on the vids
Holy cr*p, I see why people like trepanning, all that wasted metal. Need a central bin in the shop hooked to an auger that takes the chips outside.
If I build another shop, automatic swarf removal system is top of my list 👊🤣
oh come on. you can run that 4140 twice as fast. i do it all the time. you got flood coolant.
We were mostly limited by the steady when it came to speed. Ideally I would run it twice as hard.
In the Hulk, when the steady goes pop you’ve got about 2 seconds before the billet decides to go for a 1 tonne walk.
Typical VC we run 4140 at is 170. If say we dropped it to approx 95 for this job.
But you’re right, we can run it harder.
@@halheavyduty understand about the steady. it doesnt look as robust as the rest of the machine. i got a stout machine, and a stout steady. and i got a 4 jaw. i only had a part walk one time. different setups and situations. but i do understand. when the steady interferes, bad stuff happens. i just like to see big blue chips off a big chunk of 4140. i dont have patience for anything else. but hey. if its gonna jump out. well. do what you gotta do. what kind of machine is the hulk? i couldnt clearly see the name plate. i drive a poreba and i gotta say, that thing has got some balls. 12 mm cut? no problem. wont back down. chews stainless like its butter.
Im with you all the way when it comes to heavy cuts and big blue chips. It’s a 30 year old Spanish Guruptze megabore.
We cut heavy and hard when it’s grabbed with both chucks… but the steady just isn’t as robust as I’d like.
Do you have a model number of your machine? Really curious to learn more!
Appreciate the comment bro. Clearly you know your shit when it comes to heavy machining 👊💯
@@halheavyduty Poreba Tpk90. The cool thing is, it will feed on the top slide to. So you can cut some long tapers.
Just checked it out. Looks like a bloody solid bit of gear. Love it. Thanks brother 👊👊
Activate the subtitles, please.
Will do.
@@halheavyduty Thanks.
No probs