I go by dry rot, if I see cracks I replace. Usually that's long before 10 years are up and I don't drive a ton so i get dry rot before the tread gets used up
If you live in a secure place and you don't drive much,buy some nylon tire covers.I just got 2,to cover the side of my van that's exposed to the sun.My last tires got cooked prematurely by the sun!
Cheap tires essentially have compound that, for some reason, doesn't transmit the road feel very wheel into the steering wheel...you they are numb feeling even if there may be good enough grip. They also don't like higher speeds. The 2/32's rule doesn't apply anymore with high speed driving, which is now legal and allowed. It's more like 5/32nds now is the safest level before it's time to replace them. The 2/32nds rule needs to die.
Not arguing your point, but I disagree with waiting 10 years replace tires. I wouldn’t go more than five. I’ve got tires that are five years old and they’re not splitting on the sides but they’re cracking inside the tread a little unfortunate unfortunate part is I still have a shit ton of treadbecause I don’t drive a lot like I said I’m not arguing with you. I just don’t exactly agree with a 10 year replacement.
Weird that someone paid so well would make such a confident video while being wrong on most of it… -Max inflation pressure is the pressure where the tire will perform as the listed specs the door jam reading is simply manufacturer spec for the vehicle -tires do not expire.. the dot date is the month and year the tire was made. Most manufacturers warranty tires off the date of sale if the tire was sold at an authorized dealer as the tires DO NOT deteriorate in a controlled warehouse environment - cheap or expensive matters FAR LESS than proper application. The most expensive tires you can buy will barely last if they aren’t doing their intended job… The rest tracks
This is such a silly take, quite different from what the real experts in tyres recommend: 1) it is very SELDOM that a cheaper tyre is better than the top (expensive) ones: I found this only with some Falken and Bridgestone tyres, having an amazing quality/price ratio (because some already depreciated but performant tech from UUHP/UHP tyres was moved to regular or even budget tyres). Otherwise, the superior tech always costs a lot more (there is a lot of money invested in the R&D); 2) the snowflake on all weather tyres shows only that it is above the MINIMUM requirements for winter (that are far too forgiving, too low), but they are far away from the performance of the winter-dedicated tyres (it's the same situation for summer - for all weather vs. summer-dedicated tyres); experts' recommendation is for dedicated tyres (for winter and summer), not for all weather/seasons tyres; 3) yes, the pressure should USUALLY match the car manufacturer recommendation, unless you go for long highway travel, track-days (you need a lower pressure, the temperature inside is growing a lot at high speed) or off-road (you need a higher print of the tyre when off-roading); 4) usually, a tyre is recommended by producers/dealers to be CHANGED at 8/7 years old, because the tyre flexible components are getting too rigid with age (e.g. one of my premium Continental WC830 blew at high speed even it was slightly above 8-years old and that set of tyres was used less than 15'000 miles!) - the service confirmed it was because of age; 5) true, you should never go CLOSE to the minimum legal thread depth, better be safe than sorry. Those driving with illegal low thread are a menace to themselves and to the other participants in traffic. The tyres are your ONLY connection with the road, thus the best performance tyres are the ideal for your safety (and also for other people's safety).
Using auto manufacturers pressure recommendation is not always the best. In the 1970's or so Ford recommended a lower tire pressure on its Broncos. This was lowers than Uniroyal tire rating and caused many fatal accidents.
@@darrellbedford4857a rare occurrence does not make the norm. It is generally accepted and recommended to match manufacturer unless you have changed something (like the rim/shocks).
I call BS , Cheap ( I mean cheap not the b list cheaper than premium tyres) rarely perform well across the board, might be OK in dry but rubbish in wet , braking distance wear etc. Cheap tyres are cheap for a reason people, and it's not so you get premium performance and a chinesium price.
Funny that as this video showed up, my initial thought was a worthless UA-camr spewing their unsupported opinions. As soon as you said Consumer Reports, my thoughts changed to valuable accurate information from a trusted source. Consumer Reports - keep up the good work and always maintain your independence and credibility.
My Michelin Ecos from 2011 are the best daily tyres I’ve ever had. They’re ecos so they were hard as rocks then but now they’re 13 years old they’re practically resistant to wear
Here's a breakdown of our comprehensive testing process: www.consumerreports.org/cars/cars-driving/how-consumer-reports-tests-cars-auto-test-center-a3516544374/
Cheaper tires always preform worse than more expensive tires if your video was true I am sure you would have at least provided a name brand provided the name brand and the price ❤😮❤😮❤😮❤😮peace ✌
you think you know math, but you don't know AMERICANs. they will think the tire shop says it is only 1/16 left and hence need to change tire is ripping them off. they will refuse the repair, drive on, have a blowout and sue the tire company.
Look for dry, cracked rubber blocks. I've had 6-year-old tires replaced because of it. 😉
I go by dry rot, if I see cracks I replace. Usually that's long before 10 years are up and I don't drive a ton so i get dry rot before the tread gets used up
If you live in a secure place and you don't drive much,buy some nylon tire covers.I just got 2,to cover the side of my van that's exposed to the sun.My last tires got cooked prematurely by the sun!
real live Sheldon’s older brother
Good one boss
Yes I read the ratings on the tires my cheaper tires last longer and seem fine in Florida for 25% of the cost of the dealer
Good info...thanks
It takes 1000 miles for the pavement to machine your new tires to being actually round.
Why say 2/32?
I learnt when dealing with fractions you got down as low as possible so in this instance it's 1/16
My tires only last a year 🤷🏻♂️
You should make q video of which tires are the best
always use MOE tires (Mercedes Original Equipment) and dont waste time with 3rd party untested tires
You are seeing that people are confused enough with tires specs, and you throw in unsimplified fractions.
Cheap tires essentially have compound that, for some reason, doesn't transmit the road feel very wheel into the steering wheel...you they are numb feeling even if there may be good enough grip. They also don't like higher speeds.
The 2/32's rule doesn't apply anymore with high speed driving, which is now legal and allowed. It's more like 5/32nds now is the safest level before it's time to replace them. The 2/32nds rule needs to die.
Not arguing your point, but I disagree with waiting 10 years replace tires. I wouldn’t go more than five. I’ve got tires that are five years old and they’re not splitting on the sides but they’re cracking inside the tread a little unfortunate unfortunate part is I still have a shit ton of treadbecause I don’t drive a lot like I said I’m not arguing with you. I just don’t exactly agree with a 10 year replacement.
After he said Run 10 year old tires I don't believe anything else he says
I believe you misheard....he said replace them even if the tread looks good.
min spec on summers 2 mm min on winters 4 mm.
Inflate tires to TIRE manufacture specification
The rest of world 🌎 is metric so you should mention Milimetres as well as inches 🙄
Try testing flea market tires.
Weird that someone paid so well would make such a confident video while being wrong on most of it…
-Max inflation pressure is the pressure where the tire will perform as the listed specs the door jam reading is simply manufacturer spec for the vehicle
-tires do not expire.. the dot date is the month and year the tire was made. Most manufacturers warranty tires off the date of sale if the tire was sold at an authorized dealer as the tires DO NOT deteriorate in a controlled warehouse environment
- cheap or expensive matters FAR LESS than proper application. The most expensive tires you can buy will barely last if they aren’t doing their intended job…
The rest tracks
2/32😮, do you mean 1/16?
Hi quick question can I put 265 on a 255 tire size?
This is such a silly take, quite different from what the real experts in tyres recommend:
1) it is very SELDOM that a cheaper tyre is better than the top (expensive) ones: I found this only with some Falken and Bridgestone tyres, having an amazing quality/price ratio (because some already depreciated but performant tech from UUHP/UHP tyres was moved to regular or even budget tyres).
Otherwise, the superior tech always costs a lot more (there is a lot of money invested in the R&D);
2) the snowflake on all weather tyres shows only that it is above the MINIMUM requirements for winter (that are far too forgiving, too low), but they are far away from the performance of the winter-dedicated tyres (it's the same situation for summer - for all weather vs. summer-dedicated tyres); experts' recommendation is for dedicated tyres (for winter and summer), not for all weather/seasons tyres;
3) yes, the pressure should USUALLY match the car manufacturer recommendation, unless you go for long highway travel, track-days (you need a lower pressure, the temperature inside is growing a lot at high speed) or off-road (you need a higher print of the tyre when off-roading);
4) usually, a tyre is recommended by producers/dealers to be CHANGED at 8/7 years old, because the tyre flexible components are getting too rigid with age (e.g. one of my premium Continental WC830 blew at high speed even it was slightly above 8-years old and that set of tyres was used less than 15'000 miles!) - the service confirmed it was because of age;
5) true, you should never go CLOSE to the minimum legal thread depth, better be safe than sorry. Those driving with illegal low thread are a menace to themselves and to the other participants in traffic.
The tyres are your ONLY connection with the road, thus the best performance tyres are the ideal for your safety (and also for other people's safety).
Using auto manufacturers pressure recommendation is not always the best. In the 1970's or so Ford recommended a lower tire pressure on its Broncos. This was lowers than Uniroyal tire rating and caused many fatal accidents.
The marketing machine has you Hook line and sinker mate…..
@@darrellbedford4857a rare occurrence does not make the norm. It is generally accepted and recommended to match manufacturer unless you have changed something (like the rim/shocks).
Toyota tyres are my favourite brand.
@@carloskissoondhan9641 What do you smoke, dude? There are no tyres branded Toyota. Maybe Toyo?
Is he Sheldon’s older brother
I call BS , Cheap ( I mean cheap not the b list cheaper than premium tyres) rarely perform well across the board, might be OK in dry but rubbish in wet , braking distance wear etc. Cheap tyres are cheap for a reason people, and it's not so you get premium performance and a chinesium price.
You lost me with the xx of an inch.😂😂😂 USA is so behind
seconds? lol
Somebody tried to tell me that square tires don't exist but they do don't they there is square tires out there Flintstones SpongeBob SquarePants
Funny that as this video showed up, my initial thought was a worthless UA-camr spewing their unsupported opinions. As soon as you said Consumer Reports, my thoughts changed to valuable accurate information from a trusted source.
Consumer Reports - keep up the good work and always maintain your independence and credibility.
My Michelin Ecos from 2011 are the best daily tyres I’ve ever had. They’re ecos so they were hard as rocks then but now they’re 13 years old they’re practically resistant to wear
Test results behind a pay wall??? no thanks , There are good you tube channels with very good open access tyre tests ( like Tyre Reviews)
Here's a breakdown of our comprehensive testing process: www.consumerreports.org/cars/cars-driving/how-consumer-reports-tests-cars-auto-test-center-a3516544374/
Cheaper tires always preform worse than more expensive tires if your video was true I am sure you would have at least provided a name brand provided the name brand and the price ❤😮❤😮❤😮❤😮peace ✌
Cool ❤😮❤😮
Another one is,it is spealt tyre in most civilised countries.
If you keep your car in the garage, tires last more than 10 years.
😂😂
Why say 2/32" for? Even my dumbass knows that it's 1/16" & the 4/32 is 1/8"
/32 is the industry standard for measuring tire tread. And a lot of people are bad with fractions
They say that because they can't use the standard system.
you think you know math, but you don't know AMERICANs.
they will think the tire shop says it is only 1/16 left and hence need to change tire is ripping them off.
they will refuse the repair, drive on, have a blowout and sue the tire company.