This is absolutely the BEST and only good video on how to install this! All others did not mention the double tapping and I was yelling at my laptop, LOL This one is obviously done by a professional and the steps are all well synchronized, perfect tempo and detail!!!!!! Nice, no need to make another video on this subject. This one is the standard!
you make it look easy and you explain so clearly and straight forward.. I went to my disconnect and I don't have a surge protector so im going to have one installed...thanks
Just installed Intermatic surge protectors for both my condensors. I would have double tapped, but your video was spot on. Project took only one hour. One thing that I did differently was that the wires on the Intermatic were very long and I used those to create the pig tail connections rather than a 10 gauge sold wire. Is that Okay? . I also used electrical tape to wind around the wire connectors just as an added precaution from them loosening. Thank you for a great video. Your diagrams were very helpful.
Awesome 😎 video and diagram 👍 I'm going to do this because I had to have the ECM motor on the air handler replaced ($876). Unit is only 2.5 years old. I paid $590 extra for a surge protector when the unit was installed (company is out of business). but the technician who just changed the motor said there is no surge protector. 😡
Usually it's not the motor itself but the module that goes on an ECM. Mine beat you by 6 months. My 2 year old Carrier X13 bit the dust. Motor was covered labor was not. They wanted for $700 labor so I bought the motor myself for less than $300. It took me less than an hour. I would put in Rectorseal surge protectors. They have added technology ( gas tube) that takes the hit before the mov's. In english that means if the surge protector takes a a hit and the mov's blow you need a new surge protector. Rectorseals protect the mov's and have a lifetime warranty should they blow. Seems like a win win. My X13 wouldn't shut off BTW. Some die like mine. Some won't turn on. Some on and off. It's always one of the 3. They are known to not last like the older but less efficient PCM motors.
What's the difference between double tapping at the lug as opposed to the pigtail? I get that only one wire is going into the lug with the pigtail, but curious why two can't go there, but they can at the pigtail? Thanks!
Lugs are rated for the number of conductors they may secure. If you "double tap" a lug which was not designed for it, you can cause issues with the connection. What can happen is the connection will come loose since it wasn't designed to hold two connectors, when a connection becomes loose it can arc which causes overheating and then lead to a fire. The few times I have seen double taping allowed is with equipment grounding conductors (the green or bare coper wire), the panel will have specifications that outline if, how, and when a lug may be doubled tapped. For example in some service panels the equipment grounding conductors lugs may be double tapped but never the hots or neutrals. In my service panel the grounding may be tripled tapped if using #14-10 wires, but only if they are the same size and materials. Always check the manuals and labels for your panel and follow them. The reason why grounds are allowed to be doubled tapped is because they are not meant to carry the full load continually, the equipment grounding conductors are designed to carry the rush of a ground fault just long enough to cause a breaker to trip.
From what I have seen. If you are installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, you need a two pole breaker that you would terminate the leads from the surge protector on. You could double check the instruction from the manufacturer. If I were installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, that is how I would do it.
Kind of weird that a white wire is being used as a ground, no? I see it came that way on the surge protector but I would think it would at least be marked with a green pen or something. Not claiming you did anything wrong, just surprised the surge protectors ship like that.
Typically line is on the top. The wires that feeds the disconnect are your line. The wires that leaves the disconnect to feed the compressor is your load. Hope that helps you.
How would the wiring work if you have a 120 mini split (12/2 gauge 1/B, 1/W, & 1/G) ? Do both Black wires on this surge protector go to the (1) line and the White wire goes to Ground Bus Bar or to the White/Neutral?
The 2 blacks from the SP go to the hot (120v) and the neutral. The white from the SP goes to ground just like if it was 240v. The only difference is instead of the second hot it goes to neutral.
Hey buddy just came across your UA-cam channel, I have to say your videos are really informercial and it really helps in DIY Projects. I was wondering if you can guide me how to install INTERMATIC COMPRESSOR DEFENDER - MODEL # CD1-024R. I do understand on how to connect to the Line side. But what's really confusing is how do I connect to my Compressor wiring.? I was wondering if you can help me through the process. I am talking about how to connect the BLACK and the RED wire that connects to the Compressor side. I would appreciate if you can guide me through it. I am happy to send you any pictures if you like. Please advise.
Since it doesn't matter which side you put it on in terms of effect, why not put it on the load side so when it needs to be replaced you only need to pull the disconnect to do it safely.
It does matter. You misinterpreted what he said. He has a 240v system so 2 hots on the line side. He meant the wires didn't matter to which hot on the line side. This type does not go to the load side.
line side from house Black (hot) Red (hot) Bare Ground wire from surge Black(1) Black (2) White (Ground) Pig tails Black (hot) Red (Hot) White (Ground) so the White wires should have been rewrapped with green tape
Others are right that double-tapping is against the electrical code for any connector that's not designed for multiple wires. The twist-on wire connectors like those he uses are color-coded based on the number and size wires they can join. He uses tan-colored ones rated for up to three #10 wires, which is probably what you'll be joining. I'd wrap electrical tape tightly around them to keep moisture out.
I love this! Straight to the point. I may not be doing the work but when I have my split A/C unit installed, I'll know what to look for and how to expect it. Thank you.
It says in the install instructions .Under type 1 and type 2 installation . Ensure conductor lengths are as short and straight as possible for best performance . DO NOT COIL EXCESS WIRES.90 degree bends will reduce efficiencey . '' CUT ALL LEADS TO CORRECT LENGTH "
Please don't do this. Never put wire nuts on 240 volt ac unit they will fail. If you want to use pig tails use metal lugs and tape them up. They really recommend not cutting those leads because the factory figures on them being that length
Finally, a video where double-tapping was explained, warned against and addressed! Thank you!!
Agreed ! Excellent Video !
Finally I see someone not double-tapping, which installs confidence in your entire video! Thank you :)
You actually did it correctly, unlike every other video I've watched.
This is the best video explaining how to install this, especially explaining why you can’t double tap. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Best one so far, kid knows what he’s doing.
Did a good job explaining.
First person I seen on UA-cam who didn't double tap good job
This is absolutely the BEST and only good video on how to install this! All others did not mention the double tapping and I was yelling at my laptop, LOL
This one is obviously done by a professional and the steps are all well synchronized, perfect tempo and detail!!!!!! Nice, no need to make another video on this subject. This one is the standard!
Awesome, thank you!
This is a good video. A few of the others have numerous mistakes such as not trimming excess wire and double tapping lugs.
It is nice to see someone who knows what they are doing teaching others. Thanks so much!
Phenomenal video. To the point and made really well. Thank you for showing and explaining the correct way instead of doubling up on lugs.
you make it look easy and you explain so clearly and straight forward.. I went to my disconnect and I don't have a surge protector so im going to have one installed...thanks
Great video, love the graphics and reasons behind what you are doing, very informative and easy to follow 👍
Great video! Good, clear directions that conform to the NEC electrical code (i.e. no “double tap” connections).
To the point and love the idea that you put it out there that it's a fire hazard to double tap.
Best diagram on UA-cam!
Awesome video my dude !!! Have an amazing weekend and I look forward to your many more TradeLessons to come.
Same to you! Thanks for watching!
LT This is your dude?
Are the wires aluminum strand in the intermatic? Or tinned copper?
Just installed Intermatic surge protectors for both my condensors. I would have double tapped, but your video was spot on. Project took only one hour. One thing that I did differently was that the wires on the Intermatic were very long and I used those to create the pig tail connections rather than a 10 gauge sold wire. Is that Okay?
. I also used electrical tape to wind around the wire connectors just as an added precaution from them loosening.
Thank you for a great video. Your diagrams were very helpful.
Awesome 😎 video and diagram 👍 I'm going to do this because I had to have the ECM motor on the air handler replaced ($876). Unit is only 2.5 years old. I paid $590 extra for a surge protector when the unit was installed (company is out of business). but the technician who just changed the motor said there is no surge protector. 😡
Usually it's not the motor itself but the module that goes on an ECM. Mine beat you by 6 months. My 2 year old Carrier X13 bit the dust. Motor was covered labor was not. They wanted for $700 labor so I bought the motor myself for less than $300. It took me less than an hour.
I would put in Rectorseal surge protectors. They have added technology ( gas tube) that takes the hit before the mov's. In english that means if the surge protector takes a a hit and the mov's blow you need a new surge protector. Rectorseals protect the mov's and have a lifetime warranty should they blow. Seems like a win win.
My X13 wouldn't shut off BTW. Some die like mine. Some won't turn on. Some on and off. It's always one of the 3. They are known to not last like the older but less efficient PCM motors.
holy shit thats a well edited video
nice job dude
What's the difference between double tapping at the lug as opposed to the pigtail? I get that only one wire is going into the lug with the pigtail, but curious why two can't go there, but they can at the pigtail? Thanks!
Lugs are rated for the number of conductors they may secure. If you "double tap" a lug which was not designed for it, you can cause issues with the connection. What can happen is the connection will come loose since it wasn't designed to hold two connectors, when a connection becomes loose it can arc which causes overheating and then lead to a fire.
The few times I have seen double taping allowed is with equipment grounding conductors (the green or bare coper wire), the panel will have specifications that outline if, how, and when a lug may be doubled tapped. For example in some service panels the equipment grounding conductors lugs may be double tapped but never the hots or neutrals. In my service panel the grounding may be tripled tapped if using #14-10 wires, but only if they are the same size and materials. Always check the manuals and labels for your panel and follow them. The reason why grounds are allowed to be doubled tapped is because they are not meant to carry the full load continually, the equipment grounding conductors are designed to carry the rush of a ground fault just long enough to cause a breaker to trip.
Perfect video. To the point and very informative. Awesome
Can you pigtail it as shown from a breaker the same way ? instead of a quick disconnect ?
From what I have seen. If you are installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, you need a two pole breaker that you would terminate the leads from the surge protector on. You could double check the instruction from the manufacturer. If I were installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, that is how I would do it.
Thanks. You have no idea of what truble you have pulled me out 😄
What gauge wire did you use for the pigtail?
You'd want to use the same size as what's coming from the electrical panel.
size?
@@that_guy89x89 Assuming a 30 Amp Breaker, that would be 10AWG wire. also the spec sheet for this surge also states it is 10AWG wire
Kind of weird that a white wire is being used as a ground, no? I see it came that way on the surge protector but I would think it would at least be marked with a green pen or something. Not claiming you did anything wrong, just surprised the surge protectors ship like that.
Best video on UA-cam. Subb'd!
How do you identify which one is the line side or the load side wiring from the disconnect?
Typically line is on the top. The wires that feeds the disconnect are your line. The wires that leaves the disconnect to feed the compressor is your load. Hope that helps you.
Nice clear instructions…thanks
How would the wiring work if you have a 120 mini split (12/2 gauge 1/B, 1/W, & 1/G) ? Do both Black wires on this surge protector go to the (1) line and the White wire goes to Ground Bus Bar or to the White/Neutral?
The 2 blacks from the SP go to the hot (120v) and the neutral. The white from the SP goes to ground just like if it was 240v. The only difference is instead of the second hot it goes to neutral.
Can’t you just use the extra wire from the surge protector (that you cut off) as your pigtail connector?
What guage is your pigtail wire?
How do you make those diagrams, which software do you use, Thank you.
Awesome to the point and informative video.
Solid wire is recommended by the manufacturer?
Hey buddy just came across your UA-cam channel, I have to say your videos are really informercial and it really helps in DIY Projects. I was wondering if you can guide me how to install INTERMATIC COMPRESSOR DEFENDER - MODEL # CD1-024R. I do understand on how to connect to the Line side. But what's really confusing is how do I connect to my Compressor wiring.? I was wondering if you can help me through the process.
I am talking about how to connect the BLACK and the RED wire that connects to the Compressor side. I would appreciate if you can guide me through it. I am happy to send you any pictures if you like.
Please advise.
Splice it in.
Can you use Wago connectors instead if wire nuts?
Yes
Wago's not rated for outdoor use, without using a Gelbox to protect the connection
What's the difference between PS3000 vs AG3000? I'm installing it for my Intermatic timer and pump. TIA
Only a year late lol but for what it’s worth to someone else reading,
PS is for Pool & Spa
AG is for HVAC
Nice video 👍👍👍
What about the indoor unit?
Since it doesn't matter which side you put it on in terms of effect, why not put it on the load side so when it needs to be replaced you only need to pull the disconnect to do it safely.
It does matter. You misinterpreted what he said. He has a 240v system so 2 hots on the line side. He meant the wires didn't matter to which hot on the line side. This type does not go to the load side.
Nice work
So.. You connected the neutral to the grounding wire, making it live? Explain to me why that isn't dangerous. Thank you
That was ground to ground. He has a 240v system no neutral. 2 hots.
line side from house Black (hot) Red (hot) Bare Ground
wire from surge Black(1) Black (2) White (Ground)
Pig tails Black (hot) Red (Hot) White (Ground)
so the White wires should have been rewrapped with green tape
The Sycom protectors are recalled so check
thank you! i just install mine.
Thank you
What about the 24 volt connection to the compressor?
Others are right that double-tapping is against the electrical code for any connector that's not designed for multiple wires. The twist-on wire connectors like those he uses are color-coded based on the number and size wires they can join. He uses tan-colored ones rated for up to three #10 wires, which is probably what you'll be joining. I'd wrap electrical tape tightly around them to keep moisture out.
I stopped using wire nuts a while ago. I only use Wago's now.
Thank you. I am going to take the $400 I saved and buy cymbals.
Half a Zildjian. :) Ex drummer myself.
Why did you cut red wire if you didn't do anything to it?
The manufacturer recommends not cutting the excess wire off the surge protector
I love this! Straight to the point. I may not be doing the work but when I have my split A/C unit installed, I'll know what to look for and how to expect it. Thank you.
another vid I watched said don"t cut the surge protecter wires, leave them full length according to manufacture. Who's right?
It says in the install instructions .Under type 1 and type 2 installation . Ensure conductor lengths are as short and straight as possible for best performance . DO NOT COIL EXCESS WIRES.90 degree bends will reduce efficiencey . '' CUT ALL LEADS TO CORRECT LENGTH "
Get rid of the damn background music. It is so distracting for anybody like me who needs to give the narrated instructions our full attention.
Using Twisted lug nuts on high current 240VAC lines for the AC compressor? Really?
So what do you use to secure the pigtails and where do you get them? Thank you.
@@sogxr use heat shrink tubes and electrical tape or duct/duck tape ......lol
@@sogxr polaris taps or Wago
Please don't do this. Never put wire nuts on 240 volt ac unit they will fail. If you want to use pig tails use metal lugs and tape them up. They really recommend not cutting those leads because the factory figures on them being that length