I started a business a year ago building custom bass boxes with 0 prior knowledge but I studied your videos and utilized all the knowledge I took from them. Now I have a solid reputation for my boxes performing perfectly
Great description of the beauty of the band pass design. I have rarely heard it so well articulated. Just a pleasure to watch and listen to. Some of us are old hats with some of the science, but hearing it explained succinctly and clearly is still a beautiful experience. Thanks for that.
Wow, super impressed! I've never seen so much correct information condensed into 10 minutes on audio as this. In a sea of audio half truths this was refreshing to see not a single misunderstanding of the physics/engineering of how ports operate. My background is live sound engineer/speaker builder/car audio way back when and I spend more time on the math and physics of audio that I care to admit and you hit all the bases. The only thing I would of added would be some of the pro's/cons/trade off's of ported enclosures. Things like efficiency, size, distortion vs group delay, phase, f3, harmonics.
You are far too kind. As far as the pros and cons, my original plan was to make a video covering that topic. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. But you're exactly right. I need to make that video.
This was a great video. So much information packed into a few minutes. No fluff just the facts and it was explained in simple enough terms you don’t have to be a engineer to understand this information. This is why I follow this channel. Thank you
Great video! You covered a ton of material in a very short period. I started studying the body of work by Theil & Small in the early 1980s. I began plotting freq response charts and then building a lot of "tuned" boxes back then. Amazing how much speakers have changed since then. Would like to see you do a video on passive crossovers as well. Most folks do not understand a simple 6dB/octave let alone an 18 dB/octave x-over or when to use each.
I have always wondered how to the TS parameters to generate the plots. I am sure somebody out their has this posted online, or it is in a book. Can you point me in the right direction?
Beautifully detailed ❤️. I’m a sealed box kind of guy and have been into car audio for over 25+ years. I remember long before “bazooka” tubes, Kicker actually made speakers back in the late 80s that were of an oblong igloo. What was amazing about that design was it include a port, but sort of a hybrid port/sealed enclosure as it came with a port plug. I’m surprised I haven’t seen them since.
Generally speaking a subwoofer is going to perform better in either ported or sealed alignment and even with some of the fence-sitters you'll wind up with either larger than optimum sealed or smaller than optimum ported by just plugging the port.
Port plugs are still a thing in the home theater world. Each of my 15s, for example, have 3 ports and I have the ability to plug each one. This helps with fine tuning to fit your room acoustics.
Just ported a box this weekend after watching your video! I added 3 smaller ports instead of one large one due to the size of the speaker and allowable drilling on the sub box. It sounds amazing. as I added each port 1-2-3 it got better sounding each time. I did the math and found the correct ratio to surface area and volume of the cone in order to convert to smaller ports. I see a lot of air but barely see the subwoofer speaker moving. I would say this is most efficient sound I can get out of my setup. Tuned to 59.7 hz.
That's sweet, I was looking for information on the exact same idea, and I figured the ratios were easy to calculate. Looks like you found out it's pretty simple.
@@jimjones3287 it seems so theoretically, I tried a design the same way, but I didn't calculate port noise yet. I would see that as being the biggest difference, but haven't put that theory into practice yet. Did you try to search for answers online?
I havent watched any Subwoofer building Videos for just about one year. I was determined to learn just about everything I needed to know regarding the technical aspects of it. And I did. The point is having watched your video here and a couple others of yours today I can gladly say that you have improved your video presentation in 2023, not that it was bad by any means. You are much appreciated. Your videos are music to my ears. Please keep it up.
I try to get a little better every day. I use the money provided by my patrons to (www.patreon.com/DIYAudioGuy) to upgrade camera gear, lights, microphones, software, etc...
Wish I knew all this 20 years ago, so many years of bass wasted. Great video bro. Lots of people don’t know and your video help people build an enclosure the right way before making a costly mistake
Great video and great explanation! You're explaining this at next level and I'm certainly going to link this video when people start with the subwoofer myths!
That was an EXCELLENT explanation of the ported enclosure !!! Extremely informative and well done. A bit fast w the info. so I slowed down the speed so I could stay w you in the info. but I guess that’s what rewind is for too huh ?!?! It awesome job explaining a ton of great info. in a short video clip. Well worth listening to and paying attention to as well as making a note or two. Thank you very much !!!! 👊
I've owned both sealed design speakers or air suspension speakers like older Boston acoustic, and I loved the tightness and defined response of bass, was all that traded for the loudness and efficiency of ported designed speakers? Because I believe the sealed design sound a lot more pleasing.
The humble paddleball is a representation of this. The paddle is the driver, the ball is the air inside the port (in my case, it's instead a passive radiator) the air inside the cabinet is the rubber band. In the ideal scenario, both the ball and paddle should be traveling in opposing directions for as much of the span of said desired wave, as to transmit the most energy into the action. Same as a driver and port air should do the same. The most phase offset I have seen is up to 170°, which is amazing!
What do you mean? Like a PA or concert system at an outdoor venue? I am not really sure, I mostly stick to home theater and cars. But the exact frequency will depend on the speaker.
Thank you for showing people how to Do the Math! Win ISD is the best. You truly are a great builder and very knowledgeable. As I normally post. Do your math! Fantastic Brother!
I love all the videos that you make I have a couple questions I need to ask you I have Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" I have a 2008 Scion xB I purchase four of these small woofer what kind of box do you recommend ported or sealed and if you could help me out a little bit thanks
Are you trying to use them as a subwoofer? I don't think I would recommend them for that purpose. This is really designed to pair with a tweeter in a bookshelf speaker for your home.
There's actually 2 resonances. One around the mid band where the driver is moving the most and the port and driver are in phase. This happens from a combination of the driver springing against its share of air in the box and the port springing against its share of air (I'm not sure how this air is divided but it is some fraction that changes with speaker parameters, box sizes and tunings). The second resonance is that of the port springing against almost all the air in the box and the driver barely moving. The port output will be 90 degrees behind the output of the back of the speaker (or 270 behind the front). The net 90 degree phase is still additive, especially when the port is making most of the sound. You can actually see two resonances with a mass on a spring and your hand. One where your hand moves up and down a lot and the weight does the opposite of your hand. The other where the weight does most of the motion and your hand moves only enough to make up for losses and may as well be a fixed point. Below the tuning, the port will be making some sound but will begin to act like a leak in the box, meaning the driver will act like it is in free air. In fact it resonates even more at very low frequencies due to the momentum of the air in the box and the port increasing the effective moving mass of the speaker. You can damage your speaker if it's playing too loud down there. I have pa subwoofers that are tuned between 35 and 40 Hz depending on boundary loading and they can move like crazy at 10-15 Hz with just a handful of watts.
It can be any shape you want but it comes at the price of efficiency. A round port is the most efficient design possible, from there it comes down to how much efficiency you are prepared to trade for the design you want.
So a subsonic filter can help from playing to low of frequency and bottoming out your subs in a ported box. Is it true that a sealed enclosure wouldn’t need a subsonic filter to be set since there is no port to push all the air out and therefore you always have that air suspension on the subs?
Based off of your explanation of port size and pressure at different frequencies would it be possibl to adjust the port length with say a consitina setup which is controlled by a stepper motor for different frequency ranges using a frequency controller, e.g. At higher frequency shorten/lengthen the port a few cm (inches - I work in metric) and then at lower frequencies adjust the port again so that the optimal Fb works over a broader range, and the effective frequency range for maximum bass range is widened? Not sure if you understand the question... I'm not technical by any means, but it sounds like a logical approach to expanding the bass range for full enjoyment without compromising choice of the size of the product. Could be overkill, but does such a active port setup exist? Should not be a massively expensive alternative in my mind. Would be interesting to hear your feedback. Very good video BTW, explaining the port logic, even for a non techie like myself!
I've got some krk rokit 8's, and they do go loud enough, but usually I have to turn it down because at some higher frequencies, while playing guitar, they start to unload and the 8" woofer starts to over-excursionate-ify. Should I get bigger pa speakers or is there a fix? If I start to adjust the bass using eq's and or hp filters, the guitar doesn't sound as nice or powerful...... Any suggestions?
@@DIYAudioGuy yeah, looking at a used pair of Yorkville YX10P. They are 10". Going to see if I can rent the same type from a music store, before I buy them.
The main problem is that below the tuning frequency, the port goes out of resonance and DOES cancel the speaker output. It is an acoustical short circuit at very low frequencies. That is why a lowcut is needed with a BR woofer - to not over-excite and damage the speaker.
So much awesome info. I always built boxes to hrtz by size I would degree the main port tunnel. From opening it up to a smaller opening or a very small opening to a larger opening. It works phenomenally well and just a few degrees makes a huge difference
Such a great info-dump. Totally new to this, so trying to pick up some bits. I know you covered a lot, but as I sip information, and don't get a chance to swallow, my thimble just chokes then overflows. I'm left with a bit of the flavor, but most of the nutrition is gone (when people cover advanced topics and go _so_ fast!) I realize for much of your audience this is all 'old hat', nothing new, no need for pace-pause-repeat [[Teaching -->Learning]] because they all know it already. Hey, maybe I can watch 6 more times, keep stopping it and take notes! Meanwhile, thanks for putting the info out there.
I simulated a dayton woofer in Speaker Box lite. But the diameter of the port is a bit odd. The closent diameter of tube i can find is about 3mm wider. Would that be ok? Is there a tolerance for speaker port size? TIA
I want to build 2 speaker boxes for outdoor activities and I want to use 2 15" subwoofers for each box with 2 midrange speakers and tweeters in each box how box should the box be ty
That's a question for Toids DIY. That kind of build is right up his alley, you can join his forum and find helpful people that can help you figure out how to do it.
Great video. Erin's Audio Corner also had a talk on use of Finite Element Method for design of drivers and enclosures. In it, they mention at one point when there is a high pressure or low pressure at the surface of the cone. Aside from that recent video, there is something else I've been playing with: Changing the Qa (absorption) value in the advanced settings in the box tuning tab. With an absorption value of 20 (what Unibox and BassBox Pro use for an enclosure lined with insulation), this changes the excursion of the driver in such a way as to suggest the absorption makes the box act more like a sealed enclosure, which also allows for more power to be given to the driver before reaching X-max. That may be a fun video, discussing box absorption and the effects on different types of enclosures, rather than the standard of using it to make the Q of the box seem to approach that of a larger box. But, this means some of the negatives surrounding ported enclosures may be able to be combated through the use of insulation. Either way, love the videos. Hope you are having a great weekend.
Definitely something to think about! At some point I'm going to do some experiments with box stuffing. Just need to do some more research and build some enclosures before I jump on that.
Sounds like fun and what could certainly be an awesome learning experience! Especially since I am probably going to have to build my next box so I can have exactly what I'm looking for! My goodness I can't wait to have a Rocking system in my vehicle again!!
What I mentioned on Erin’s video is that steady state the cone moves outward and at it outermost displacement you have the lowest pressure in front of it, not the highest. A big misconception but often not of much consequence. The current video here is really good, great job.
@@Rene_Christensen - The way I remember it is thinking about the system in a ported enclosure. When the cone is at its innermost, it creates the highest potential or vacuum within the enclosure (lowest pressure) which then pulls air in to fill the low pressure as the cone moves outwards. Meanwhile, when the cone is at the outermost displacement, inside the box has the highest pressure at that point because it just filled the box and now that air is pushing back against the cone that is at its peak excursion outwards. But that is just how I think about it to keep it straight. And obviously, what is true on one side is the opposite on the other side (so when low on the inside of the enclosure, it is high on the cone on the outside of the enclosure).
Is there any difference between the resonance frequency of the port itself and the resonance frequency of the system (i.e., the box plus the port)? I have come across some texts that describe them as distinct frequencies. Thanks for your help!
We're fish swimming in our own sea! Your remarks on air pressure provided me an intuitive impression of something that before now I could only accept as theory. Thank you!
Great video, thanks. I'm an acoustic guitar builder wishing to lower the resonant frequency of my bass guitars. By adding port tubes to my last instrument, it lowered the frequency from 58.6 Hz to 49.8 Hz. Ideally it would be 41Hz to cover the range of the lowest string. Given that a guitar body has rigid sides/back and a flexible top, can the principles of speaker cabinet design be used to optimize this system?
Can you give me advice if what's good design for a Hard Kick bass??? Cause here in the Philippines we commonly use Cerwin Vega Design, and mostly are modified... What should we do to make it more better like more harder and can give more output power?? And should we try to put port in the cover or at the back part of the speaker? Cause it's an enclosed type of design. Your reply will be much appreciated, Thanks!
May i suggest an idea for a future video? Would you make a video on how you learned all this? How you got started in audio. How you got involved/ inspired/ influenced/ interested/ esc. Schooling / collage on the subject if so. (You seem professionally educated on the subject) I think it would be cool to see how you got started and what you were interested in when starting out. And the difference on the equipment from them until now. And how that effected what you know / learned. Thanks 🙏🏼
If you mean 'octave' and I'm not a speaker expert, then if you were to talk to a guitarist or musician, an octave, or the plateau that IS an octave above or below any pitch, is twelve notes above it, so, let's just say that an octave above 40 Hz is 80 Hz, 40 is an octave above 20 Hz, and as such. Think of Tom Sawyer by RUSH - When the bass guitar kicks in, those 2 distinct, XXX-X....notes are an octave apart - They sound the same but are so different in frequency. '18 dB per octave'? That would mean 'that much over that far' if it were about an EQ or bass dropoff in response, etc. Hope I helped. Need more BV and Coke! 🤪🤪🤪
Wow, I still have so much to learn! I’m tearing down the Roku wireless subwoofer and looking into using the components in a total upgrade of the woofer and enclosure… going to be a fun project!
I should add: a simpler project we had in mind was to splice in some RCA jacks exposed in the back of current enclosure and hook up a small external amp to power some buttkickers… that would be our main preference just given our current setup.
So I have two subwoofer and making a box with tubes,so I was wondering if I can put the tubes on the opposite from the face subwoofer?if so that means the volume wave sounds will come from the tube so that means I need to flip the box subwoofer facing towards the front car so now the air is behind trunk?
Is it true that in a vented box driver excursion reduced only on stationary signals, but during the first two-three cycles cone movements are not properly damped?
I think the technical term for that is a pole vent. It helps keep the speaker cool. Speaker with a pole vent should be able to handle more power than one without.
Will it work if I parallel two identical subwoofers, but put it in 2 different 4order bandpass enc. box that the ports of each is tuned in different frequency range i.e. one is tuned to 20hrz and the other is at 60hrz?
to calculate the port based on the frequency it is done based on the total volume of the internal box. If I have a port of 8inch round and my box has an internal volume of 3.8 cubic feet at 37hrz the port is 20" long, or to tune a 37hrz I need to add the port displacement + 3.8?
i JUST made the connection between the sub and the port listening to you talk about the "not a fan, because its pushing and pulling" so the port is 101% tied to the T&S of the speakers due to Vas, Fs, BL and MMS... all have a direct effect with the port, both shape and length are affected by each other due to the interaction of air molecules inside the port, change the length and shape, you just changed everything about it
@@DIYAudioGuy i just never made the connection, easy way for newbies to think of it would be the air acts like a passive radiator... only not solid... but gas particles
If your port is being blocked does it reduce proformance? ( I have a dual 12 build, my port is facing towards the back of my seats with little to no room left between the seat and the box.
Yes, but, seats are not brick walls so sound does make it through. If you can move the box (even just to test it) try moving and seeing if there is a difference.
Can you explain in Earthquake Sub. There is NO port and Full air tight encloser. Only Passive Diaphram. How he maintain low upto 16 HZ in Supernova MKV-6
It was interesting to see what's happening to both woofers and the port of an old JBL Northridge 100 at different frequencies. Both woofers are not always in phase, as I had expected. And I heard a lot of rattles and stuff resonating in all kinds of places, at different frequencies.
Weird things tend to happen in cars. Moving the enclosure around in the trunk can have a big impact on the amount of bass you get at the driver's seat. It's different in each car so you'll have to experiment with it.
@@DIYAudioGuy I prefer a sealed enclosure sound for quality. But in a trunk I need it louder to come through. I have two Infinity 10” subs and they are AMAZING. But I hate they way they look and can’t stand to see them in my trunk when opened. I am 44 years old and just want my car to sound good. The speakers do sound good forward but that was the speakers and the port forward up against the seat. I need my trunk I am a dad of 3 kids I need my space. I was wondering about facing them opposing to help with the ugliness. But I don’t want to lose the sound quality. I also may just rebuild the box and completely cover the subs with carpet . That way the only thing you see in the trunk in the ports.
@@DIYAudioGuy Lol True , I have some. But… it’s that the sub has some silver and kaki type of color. If they were all black it would not bother me. I am jus tint into popping my trunk and subs poking out . I rather a clean look. That’s all. Thank you Your videos are great
When I was looking to make a speaker for my Bass guitar and I had a 15" woofer from an older cabinet, I bought a book at RadioShack and started to research how I would do it. I eventually became intimidated by the math I needed to make the perfect cabinet for a speaker of relatively unknown specs, so I made a solid and airtight box with insulation stuffed into it. I learned what the tuned ports were for back around 1984 and I've cringed a little every time I have seen poorly controlled woofers, just sitting out in the open in some idiots car, and they thought their music didn't suck. I've since learned that speakers for the original production of music, can add character to the sound, and that's sort of okay, but when we want to reproduce the original sound, it really pays to have perfect well thought out speakers that produce a flatter well controlled sound that sounds like the original recording. I would like to produce some interesting speakers with tight bass, and it's probably easier now because bare speakers often come with the important information and recommendations for proper cabinet volume and design.
I've always loved music, of all genre's and styles, but lately I feel like an ignorant poser. My gosh there's so much to it. From speaker's polarity, to the sounds frequencies and the human ears abilities, to that "warm and fuzzy" tone old amps/receiver's have that I searched for only to find out its not necessarily a good thing. I have some really nice old receivers from the 70's that come to find out all need, at least, recapped. The Sansui 9090db being my first and favorite garage sale/thrift store, or in the 9090db's case, dump score. The more I learn from people like yourself the more hesitant I am to jump in and start soldering on priceless vintage stereo equipment.... but, gotta start somewhere!! I'll start on the old technics SA-303, and cross my fingers! Thanks for sharing the priceless experience and information with those of us less endowed than yourself!!!
I have a set of bass bases for a couple of monitors. These are 15 liter closed Boxes. With Vifa M18WO, which lend themselves to ported and langer boxes. Would they thus more present?
About the lower end of frequency spectrum you mentioned, I've been looking for cheap subs, and noticed that some of these specify lower limit as 50 or even 60 Hz. Isn't this very high for 8" diameter sub? Or are these manufacturers the rare example of cheap manufacturer posting real specs? (Taga TSW-60 vs Jamo 210 )
Perfect explanation, thank you a lot! Question - so actually every ported box adds additional extra power(pressure) around that Fb? And does this mean that best option for SQ and linear output is to go with sealed box?
People have been debating that for decades. I prefer ported since you can tune it flat with great low-end extension. Sealed enclosures don't have great low end extension. If you want to go sealed for sound quality then you will want a huge subwoofer and a DSP so you can shape the sound to get the low end extension.
Hey I got a question: If the air vibrating in the tube or port is vibrating at the same frequency as the speaker cone, why doesn't this cause phase cancellation? In other words, if the "push" of the cone is depressurizing the enclosure space and thus sucking in the air that is in the port, this would seem to my layman understanding like it would be the same as having a cone that is out of phase with your primary cone. Why is it that this is not the case and that we instead are getting a result that is in phase with the action of the cone? Thank you for the great video.
At the tuning frequency they are both in phase. Starting at the tuning frequency. If you start to decrease the frequency, the two will gradually become out of phase. This is why the drop off in output is so dramatic below the tuning frequency.
I'm a newbie at home theater and have a question. I have a vented port on my sub and have "chuffing". Will the polyfill reduce the amount of chuffing? Thx and enjoyed your vlog!
I decided to go with pre cut 2x4 3/4 in mdf same 11.75 for top and sides ,bottom center. 18 in daytons 3.75 cuft per driver. Plate amp 500w dayton. On rollers 4 in off floor. Killer bass 90 to 18 hertz. Make sure to use lots of stuffing. I also put 3/8 in bolts (8) around the woofers to compress the whole cabinet ie increase rigidity. Trying new grs planer tweeter soon with cast frame usher 8 in carbon fiber towers I did DIY in 1968..
Dual monoblock tpa3255 amps for towers @ 38v. Attention to details , research and carefully choosing drivers, with eq in phone , and good signal, quiet cables and short distance from amplifier to speakers all add up . I have retired and work in wheelchair. It helps the pain of a 68 year old diabetic heart amputee.. Love music loud Love to praise the Lord ....
I want to order a sound town KALE-112BPW but im so skeptical about the built since its says made of Plywood,but it still looks like a high quality thick plastic finish,. I have a doubt that the plywood made or wood finish cabinet is not durable than the plastic made cabinet for a PA system. Please enlightened me. Thank you
Hey thank you I needed this video I'm doing a spl build for next year and this put everything into perspective, very detailed 👌 been following you for a year now and always something to learn 😀
From my experience, with a 12 inch kicker sub, I’ve tried both ported and non ported. Non ported hit harder the the system I have and there’s a lot more resonance. Maybe the ported box I tried was made for a lot more power, idk
I am doing now a x2 12 inch Kickers L5, and DIY a ported box with a port in the middle. I had one of them in a sealed box, and sound was good, but heard same speaker in a ported box, and the sound and bass was 10 times more intense and deep then mine. So now i building it.
I recently started watching your channel. First rate work , fairly easy to understand , should be very helpful . I recently started the planning stage for a low power bass cabinet (20 watts ). Being low power, efficiency will be a big deal . When installing 2 different speakers (2-4'' mid bass and a single 10'') in the same cabinet . How do you determine the port size ?
Speaker port's for speaker port's but the science here is strong! So strong that I haven't come across science channels that get it this correct! Buddy, I'm impressed... The scientific community could learn something from this video and then some... The majority of people don't know how much mass is weighing apon them... And a tube is never empty!
Dude I’m 2 mins into this video and still understand what the heck your talking about, great job I’m quite simple so I’m gonna keep watching and I’m sure I’ll learn something 🎉
Redoing my Home Theater. Simple question: Ported vs Sealed for "Deepest, Rumbling, Bass for lower frequencies"? 🤔 I have a dedicated HT Room complete with insulated walls and ceiling.
Either one will work, you just have to approach it differently. If you go ported you will want a big driver and a huge enclosure with a very low Port tuning frequency, 20 hertz, maybe even lower. The other option is to use a huge driver and a sealed enclosure and then use equalization to bring up the low end.
What is the model of the woofer at the one minute mark? I am building a sub (for my car) and want to use type of woofer that is not those monsters that need lots of power. Thinking of using Peerless SLS that seems to work in sealed box. I would have used Visaton W250S but those seem to need a ported box and I think I will benefit from having 6 db roll off (sealed box). So the driver at your on minute mark looked like a nice "normal" driver.
bit.ly/3PxpG4z It is more of a "woofer" than a "subwoofer" I used one on an early build for the channel and it had no trouble keeping up with smaller home theater subwoofers. ua-cam.com/video/y0b1Gq7bCLQ/v-deo.html Would be awesome in a car door or in a 2-way set.
I started a business a year ago building custom bass boxes with 0 prior knowledge but I studied your videos and utilized all the knowledge I took from them. Now I have a solid reputation for my boxes performing perfectly
That is awesome! Nice work.
That's really cool! More power to ya! 👊
This awesome..
what about custom bass guitar cabs?
Why some boxes have membrane instead of ooen hole?
OMG 10 mins of non stop technical words, need hours to understand the basics of the port, wonderful explanation!! thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great description of the beauty of the band pass design. I have rarely heard it so well articulated. Just a pleasure to watch and listen to. Some of us are old hats with some of the science, but hearing it explained succinctly and clearly is still a beautiful experience. Thanks for that.
Thank you!
Wow, super impressed! I've never seen so much correct information condensed into 10 minutes on audio as this. In a sea of audio half truths this was refreshing to see not a single misunderstanding of the physics/engineering of how ports operate. My background is live sound engineer/speaker builder/car audio way back when and I spend more time on the math and physics of audio that I care to admit and you hit all the bases. The only thing I would of added would be some of the pro's/cons/trade off's of ported enclosures. Things like efficiency, size, distortion vs group delay, phase, f3, harmonics.
You are far too kind. As far as the pros and cons, my original plan was to make a video covering that topic. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. But you're exactly right. I need to make that video.
This was a great video. So much information packed into a few minutes. No fluff just the facts and it was explained in simple enough terms you don’t have to be a engineer to understand this information. This is why I follow this channel. Thank you
Thank you!
Great video!
You covered a ton of material in a very short period. I started studying the body of work by Theil & Small in the early 1980s. I began plotting freq response charts and then building a lot of "tuned" boxes back then. Amazing how much speakers have changed since then. Would like to see you do a video on passive crossovers as well. Most folks do not understand a simple 6dB/octave let alone an 18 dB/octave x-over or when to use each.
I tried reading the original papers. I don't have enough background in the subject to understand them.
I have always wondered how to the TS parameters to generate the plots. I am sure somebody out their has this posted online, or it is in a book. Can you point me in the right direction?
Beautifully detailed ❤️. I’m a sealed box kind of guy and have been into car audio for over 25+ years. I remember long before “bazooka” tubes, Kicker actually made speakers back in the late 80s that were of an oblong igloo. What was amazing about that design was it include a port, but sort of a hybrid port/sealed enclosure as it came with a port plug. I’m surprised I haven’t seen them since.
I remember those.
Generally speaking a subwoofer is going to perform better in either ported or sealed alignment and even with some of the fence-sitters you'll wind up with either larger than optimum sealed or smaller than optimum ported by just plugging the port.
@@Mr.Robert1 some were , depending on model some weren’t
What was the model , I never knew and would like to see it if it’s on line
Port plugs are still a thing in the home theater world.
Each of my 15s, for example, have 3 ports and I have the ability to plug each one. This helps with fine tuning to fit your room acoustics.
Just ported a box this weekend after watching your video! I added 3 smaller ports instead of one large one due to the size of the speaker and allowable drilling on the sub box. It sounds amazing. as I added each port 1-2-3 it got better sounding each time. I did the math and found the correct ratio to surface area and volume of the cone in order to convert to smaller ports. I see a lot of air but barely see the subwoofer speaker moving. I would say this is most efficient sound I can get out of my setup. Tuned to 59.7 hz.
That's sweet, I was looking for information on the exact same idea, and I figured the ratios were easy to calculate. Looks like you found out it's pretty simple.
is adding an extra identical aero port the same as making the original port longer?
@@jimjones3287 it seems so theoretically, I tried a design the same way, but I didn't calculate port noise yet. I would see that as being the biggest difference, but haven't put that theory into practice yet. Did you try to search for answers online?
Why do you have it tuned to 60 Hertz?
I havent watched any Subwoofer building Videos for just about one year. I was determined to learn just about everything I needed to know regarding the technical aspects of it. And I did. The point is having watched your video here and a couple others of yours today I can gladly say that you have improved your video presentation in 2023, not that it was bad by any means. You are much appreciated. Your videos are music to my ears. Please keep it up.
I try to get a little better every day. I use the money provided by my patrons to (www.patreon.com/DIYAudioGuy) to upgrade camera gear, lights, microphones, software, etc...
You’re educational videos are really well done. Your teaching style makes topics easier to understand.
Glad you like them!
Wish I knew all this 20 years ago, so many years of bass wasted. Great video bro. Lots of people don’t know and your video help people build an enclosure the right way before making a costly mistake
👍
Great video and great explanation! You're explaining this at next level and I'm certainly going to link this video when people start with the subwoofer myths!
You are far to kind!
That was an EXCELLENT explanation of the ported enclosure !!! Extremely informative and well done. A bit fast w the info. so I slowed down the speed so I could stay w you in the info. but I guess that’s what rewind is for too huh ?!?! It awesome job explaining a ton of great info. in a short video clip. Well worth listening to and paying attention to as well as making a note or two. Thank you very much !!!! 👊
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks!
Thank you!
I've owned both sealed design speakers or air suspension speakers like older Boston acoustic, and I loved the tightness and defined response of bass, was all that traded for the loudness and efficiency of ported designed speakers? Because I believe the sealed design sound a lot more pleasing.
A lot of people like that sound.
Just wanted to find out what those tubes on my speaker do. This video got me more confused than when I started! 😂😂
😅🎉
Wow alot of good info, I never saw a port like a passive radiator before but it makes sense the way you explained it. thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Love the bass use to enclosures in the 90s on my metro
The humble paddleball is a representation of this. The paddle is the driver, the ball is the air inside the port (in my case, it's instead a passive radiator) the air inside the cabinet is the rubber band. In the ideal scenario, both the ball and paddle should be traveling in opposing directions for as much of the span of said desired wave, as to transmit the most energy into the action. Same as a driver and port air should do the same. The most phase offset I have seen is up to 170°, which is amazing!
That is a cool trick.
3:25 It's frequency what you measure in cycles per second. You measure the wavelength just as any other length. In meters.
Correct
HI, what should the right port tuning freq. for the outdoor pro subwoofer?
What do you mean? Like a PA or concert system at an outdoor venue? I am not really sure, I mostly stick to home theater and cars. But the exact frequency will depend on the speaker.
Next level stuff... Love this videos... Everything Audio makes sense for a sound fanatic as myself... Keep it up...🤩
Thank you! Will do!
Best video I've seen on the subject without going into the math involved, great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for showing people how to Do the Math! Win ISD is the best. You truly are a great builder and very knowledgeable. As I normally post. Do your math! Fantastic Brother!
I agree! A little math goes a long way!
I just discovered your channel. Out-effin-standing work, info, and presentation! New subscriber here!
Welcome to the party.
I flip my speaker box cone facing up, place some rice on the cone and play a test tone. When the rice stop moving that's my tuning frequency.
Yep!
Thank you for giving me your subwoofer knowledge
I love all the videos that you make I have a couple questions I need to ask you I have Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4"
I have a 2008 Scion xB I purchase four of these small woofer what kind of box do you recommend ported or sealed and if you could help me out a little bit thanks
Are you trying to use them as a subwoofer? I don't think I would recommend them for that purpose. This is really designed to pair with a tweeter in a bookshelf speaker for your home.
Hexibase did a great job explaining port variations. This is another good example for explanation 👍🏻
His stuff is entertaining.
Dude you have been compressing .. my chamber with .. knowledgeable
.. comprehensive .. notions .. tha
As motions ... thank you ..
Duee
Happy to help
One qeustion with sub placement is it better or make a difference if the sub are closer to the port opening or away from it 🤔
For a subwoofer it shouldn't make any difference.
This was excellent and helped me a lot to understand a bunch of stuff. Thanks you so much.
18inch 103 voice coil diameter what type of box is good for it that will give a big sound
I will depend on all of the TS parameters. diysubwoofer.blogspot.com/2021/05/custom-subwoofer-enclosure-designs.html
I learned a lot, thanks.
Glad to hear it!
There's actually 2 resonances. One around the mid band where the driver is moving the most and the port and driver are in phase. This happens from a combination of the driver springing against its share of air in the box and the port springing against its share of air (I'm not sure how this air is divided but it is some fraction that changes with speaker parameters, box sizes and tunings).
The second resonance is that of the port springing against almost all the air in the box and the driver barely moving. The port output will be 90 degrees behind the output of the back of the speaker (or 270 behind the front). The net 90 degree phase is still additive, especially when the port is making most of the sound.
You can actually see two resonances with a mass on a spring and your hand. One where your hand moves up and down a lot and the weight does the opposite of your hand. The other where the weight does most of the motion and your hand moves only enough to make up for losses and may as well be a fixed point.
Below the tuning, the port will be making some sound but will begin to act like a leak in the box, meaning the driver will act like it is in free air. In fact it resonates even more at very low frequencies due to the momentum of the air in the box and the port increasing the effective moving mass of the speaker. You can damage your speaker if it's playing too loud down there. I have pa subwoofers that are tuned between 35 and 40 Hz depending on boundary loading and they can move like crazy at 10-15 Hz with just a handful of watts.
Yes, I've only barely scratched the surface in this video.
Can it be a Hexagon or Star shaped port? Even my initials? Good video.
Yes.
Manufacturers are forever playing with their port sizes, lengths, flares, openings and whatever else they can come up with.
Speaking of Stars,BEARDIE IN THA HOUSE!!!!
It can be any shape you want but it comes at the price of efficiency. A round port is the most efficient design possible, from there it comes down to how much efficiency you are prepared to trade for the design you want.
Any suggestions for getting a slot port to stop chuffing without completely redesigning my box?
So a subsonic filter can help from playing to low of frequency and bottoming out your subs in a ported box. Is it true that a sealed enclosure wouldn’t need a subsonic filter to be set since there is no port to push all the air out and therefore you always have that air suspension on the subs?
Yes, I took Science classes in school, but, no, I don't remember much of it at all. I'm a prime example of youth being wasted on the young.
Now that I'm old I understand what is meant by that. Yep youth was wasted on me as well.
Based off of your explanation of port size and pressure at different frequencies would it be possibl to adjust the port length with say a consitina setup which is controlled by a stepper motor for different frequency ranges using a frequency controller, e.g. At higher frequency shorten/lengthen the port a few cm (inches - I work in metric) and then at lower frequencies adjust the port again so that the optimal Fb works over a broader range, and the effective frequency range for maximum bass range is widened? Not sure if you understand the question... I'm not technical by any means, but it sounds like a logical approach to expanding the bass range for full enjoyment without compromising choice of the size of the product. Could be overkill, but does such a active port setup exist? Should not be a massively expensive alternative in my mind. Would be interesting to hear your feedback. Very good video BTW, explaining the port logic, even for a non techie like myself!
I've got some krk rokit 8's, and they do go loud enough, but usually I have to turn it down because at some higher frequencies, while playing guitar, they start to unload and the 8" woofer starts to over-excursionate-ify. Should I get bigger pa speakers or is there a fix? If I start to adjust the bass using eq's and or hp filters, the guitar doesn't sound as nice or powerful...... Any suggestions?
Sounds like you need a bigger speaker.
@@DIYAudioGuy yeah, looking at a used pair of Yorkville YX10P.
They are 10".
Going to see if I can rent the same type from a music store, before I buy them.
The main problem is that below the tuning frequency, the port goes out of resonance and DOES cancel the speaker output. It is an acoustical short circuit at very low frequencies. That is why a lowcut is needed with a BR woofer - to not over-excite and damage the speaker.
Yep, very sharp roll-off below tuning frequency.
So much awesome info. I always built boxes to hrtz by size I would degree the main port tunnel. From opening it up to a smaller opening or a very small opening to a larger opening. It works phenomenally well and just a few degrees makes a huge difference
You mean like a flare. Yeah, that works great.
Such a great info-dump. Totally new to this, so trying to pick up some bits. I know you covered a lot, but as I sip information, and don't get a chance to swallow, my thimble just chokes then overflows. I'm left with a bit of the flavor, but most of the nutrition is gone (when people cover advanced topics and go _so_ fast!) I realize for much of your audience this is all 'old hat', nothing new, no need for pace-pause-repeat [[Teaching -->Learning]] because they all know it already. Hey, maybe I can watch 6 more times, keep stopping it and take notes!
Meanwhile, thanks for putting the info out there.
👍
Dude! This was so educational, I learned so much just now! Thanks for posting this.
I simulated a dayton woofer in Speaker Box lite. But the diameter of the port is a bit odd. The closent diameter of tube i can find is about 3mm wider. Would that be ok? Is there a tolerance for speaker port size? TIA
I want to build 2 speaker boxes for outdoor activities and I want to use 2 15" subwoofers for each box with 2 midrange speakers and tweeters in each box how box should the box be ty
That's a question for Toids DIY. That kind of build is right up his alley, you can join his forum and find helpful people that can help you figure out how to do it.
Great video. Erin's Audio Corner also had a talk on use of Finite Element Method for design of drivers and enclosures. In it, they mention at one point when there is a high pressure or low pressure at the surface of the cone.
Aside from that recent video, there is something else I've been playing with: Changing the Qa (absorption) value in the advanced settings in the box tuning tab. With an absorption value of 20 (what Unibox and BassBox Pro use for an enclosure lined with insulation), this changes the excursion of the driver in such a way as to suggest the absorption makes the box act more like a sealed enclosure, which also allows for more power to be given to the driver before reaching X-max.
That may be a fun video, discussing box absorption and the effects on different types of enclosures, rather than the standard of using it to make the Q of the box seem to approach that of a larger box.
But, this means some of the negatives surrounding ported enclosures may be able to be combated through the use of insulation.
Either way, love the videos. Hope you are having a great weekend.
Definitely something to think about! At some point I'm going to do some experiments with box stuffing. Just need to do some more research and build some enclosures before I jump on that.
Sounds like fun and what could certainly be an awesome learning experience!
Especially since I am probably going to have to build my next box so I can have exactly what I'm looking for! My goodness I can't wait to have a Rocking system in my vehicle again!!
What I mentioned on Erin’s video is that steady state the cone moves outward and at it outermost displacement you have the lowest pressure in front of it, not the highest. A big misconception but often not of much consequence. The current video here is really good, great job.
@@Rene_Christensen - The way I remember it is thinking about the system in a ported enclosure. When the cone is at its innermost, it creates the highest potential or vacuum within the enclosure (lowest pressure) which then pulls air in to fill the low pressure as the cone moves outwards. Meanwhile, when the cone is at the outermost displacement, inside the box has the highest pressure at that point because it just filled the box and now that air is pushing back against the cone that is at its peak excursion outwards. But that is just how I think about it to keep it straight. And obviously, what is true on one side is the opposite on the other side (so when low on the inside of the enclosure, it is high on the cone on the outside of the enclosure).
Is there any difference between the resonance frequency of the port itself and the resonance frequency of the system (i.e., the box plus the port)? I have come across some texts that describe them as distinct frequencies. Thanks for your help!
That is a great question, join us on our next live show and we will try to give a detailed answer: bit.ly/3PYKG5P
You really do give off a sub character from mythbusters and i enjoy it
Your comment made my day.
We're fish swimming in our own sea! Your remarks on air pressure provided me an intuitive impression of something that before now I could only accept as theory. Thank you!
Well said!
it's all done for impedance matching!
Great video, thanks. I'm an acoustic guitar builder wishing to lower the resonant frequency of my bass guitars. By adding port tubes to my last instrument, it lowered the frequency from 58.6 Hz to 49.8 Hz. Ideally it would be 41Hz to cover the range of the lowest string. Given that a guitar body has rigid sides/back and a flexible top, can the principles of speaker cabinet design be used to optimize this system?
I have no idea! But I am intrigued by the question. Porting a bass guitar! If you can figure out how to make that work it will be a game changer.
I have two 12’s in a sealed box and they look to be hitting and moving hard but they are not hammering with loud bass. Should I port the box?
Try modeling both sealed and ported in WinISD before you rebuild. ua-cam.com/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/v-deo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy it’s making a vacuum to where the subs don’t slam.
Wow, I watch a fair bit of youtube tutorials and your way of explanting things is great!! Thanks for the info's!!
Thanks for watching!
Can you give me advice if what's good design for a Hard Kick bass??? Cause here in the Philippines we commonly use Cerwin Vega Design, and mostly are modified...
What should we do to make it more better like more harder and can give more output power?? And should we try to put port in the cover or at the back part of the speaker? Cause it's an enclosed type of design.
Your reply will be much appreciated, Thanks!
What your opinion on kerf ports?
May i suggest an idea for a future video? Would you make a video on how you learned all this? How you got started in audio. How you got involved/ inspired/ influenced/ interested/ esc. Schooling / collage on the subject if so. (You seem professionally educated on the subject) I think it would be cool to see how you got started and what you were interested in when starting out. And the difference on the equipment from them until now. And how that effected what you know / learned. Thanks 🙏🏼
lots great info... something I keep getting lost is the octabe.. 1/8 etc... not sure what it meams...
If you mean 'octave' and I'm not a speaker expert, then if you were to talk to a guitarist or musician, an octave, or the plateau that IS an octave above or below any pitch, is twelve notes above it, so, let's just say that an octave above 40 Hz is 80 Hz, 40 is an octave above 20 Hz, and as such. Think of Tom Sawyer by RUSH - When the bass guitar kicks in, those 2 distinct, XXX-X....notes are an octave apart - They sound the same but are so different in frequency.
'18 dB per octave'? That would mean 'that much over that far' if it were about an EQ or bass dropoff in response, etc. Hope I helped. Need more BV and Coke! 🤪🤪🤪
Wow, I still have so much to learn! I’m tearing down the Roku wireless subwoofer and looking into using the components in a total upgrade of the woofer and enclosure… going to be a fun project!
Does that subwoofer have any kind of DSP applied to it?
I should add: a simpler project we had in mind was to splice in some RCA jacks exposed in the back of current enclosure and hook up a small external amp to power some buttkickers… that would be our main preference just given our current setup.
So I have two subwoofer and making a box with tubes,so I was wondering if I can put the tubes on the opposite from the face subwoofer?if so that means the volume wave sounds will come from the tube so that means I need to flip the box subwoofer facing towards the front car so now the air is behind trunk?
In car response is difficult to predict, try it both ways and see which one works best.
Is it true that in a vented box driver excursion reduced only on stationary signals, but during the first two-three cycles cone movements are not properly damped?
I have never heard that before.
So a higher wattage amp/speaker in a closed enclosure is the way to go?
Ah yes, well spoken educational videos about audio, I’ve been searching for this for months
Hey brother got a question does it make a difference if the speaker and magnet has aport then one that doesn't
I think the technical term for that is a pole vent. It helps keep the speaker cool. Speaker with a pole vent should be able to handle more power than one without.
Will it work if I parallel two identical subwoofers, but put it in 2 different 4order bandpass enc. box that the ports of each is tuned in different frequency range i.e. one is tuned to 20hrz and the other is at 60hrz?
It can work, but it would be a lot of trouble to get it right.
to calculate the port based on the frequency it is done based on the total volume of the internal box. If I have a port of 8inch round and my box has an internal volume of 3.8 cubic feet at 37hrz the port is 20" long, or to tune a 37hrz I need to add the port displacement + 3.8?
Correct.
i JUST made the connection between the sub and the port listening to you talk about the "not a fan, because its pushing and pulling"
so the port is 101% tied to the T&S of the speakers due to Vas, Fs, BL and MMS... all have a direct effect with the port, both shape and length are affected by each other due to the interaction of air molecules inside the port, change the length and shape, you just changed everything about it
Yep, it is an interesting bit of physics!
@@DIYAudioGuy i just never made the connection, easy way for newbies to think of it would be the air acts like a passive radiator... only not solid... but gas particles
If your port is being blocked does it reduce proformance? ( I have a dual 12 build, my port is facing towards the back of my seats with little to no room left between the seat and the box.
Yes, but, seats are not brick walls so sound does make it through. If you can move the box (even just to test it) try moving and seeing if there is a difference.
Can you explain in Earthquake Sub. There is NO port and Full air tight encloser. Only Passive Diaphram. How he maintain low upto 16 HZ in Supernova MKV-6
I am not familiar with that subwoofer. Sounds like it is a passive radiator. ua-cam.com/video/v4rAkxck2_Q/v-deo.htmlsi=kEcg2rGPtA70vIdV
It was interesting to see what's happening to both woofers and the port of an old JBL Northridge 100 at different frequencies. Both woofers are not always in phase, as I had expected.
And I heard a lot of rattles and stuff resonating in all kinds of places, at different frequencies.
Odd
Wow, just found your channel. No bs straight to the point and in an understanding way for the rest of us. Subbed!
Thanks.
Can the speakers fire forward towards the cabin and the port towards the trunk lid? Will it cancel out any waves
Weird things tend to happen in cars. Moving the enclosure around in the trunk can have a big impact on the amount of bass you get at the driver's seat. It's different in each car so you'll have to experiment with it.
@@DIYAudioGuy I prefer a sealed enclosure sound for quality. But in a trunk I need it louder to come through. I have two Infinity 10” subs and they are AMAZING. But I hate they way they look and can’t stand to see them in my trunk when opened. I am 44 years old and just want my car to sound good. The speakers do sound good forward but that was the speakers and the port forward up against the seat. I need my trunk I am a dad of 3 kids I need my space. I was wondering about facing them opposing to help with the ugliness. But I don’t want to lose the sound quality. I also may just rebuild the box and completely cover the subs with carpet . That way the only thing you see in the trunk in the ports.
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 maybe you just need a nice set of grills
@@DIYAudioGuy Lol
True , I have some. But… it’s that the sub has some silver and kaki type of color.
If they were all black it would not bother me. I am jus tint into popping my trunk and subs poking out .
I rather a clean look. That’s all.
Thank you
Your videos are great
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 That sounds hideous.
When I was looking to make a speaker for my Bass guitar and I had a 15" woofer from an older cabinet, I bought a book at RadioShack and started to research how I would do it.
I eventually became intimidated by the math I needed to make the perfect cabinet for a speaker of relatively unknown specs, so I made a solid and airtight box with insulation stuffed into it.
I learned what the tuned ports were for back around 1984 and I've cringed a little every time I have seen poorly controlled woofers, just sitting out in the open in some idiots car, and they thought their music didn't suck.
I've since learned that speakers for the original production of music, can add character to the sound, and that's sort of okay, but when we want to reproduce the original sound, it really pays to have perfect well thought out speakers that produce a flatter well controlled sound that sounds like the original recording.
I would like to produce some interesting speakers with tight bass, and it's probably easier now because bare speakers often come with the important information and recommendations for proper cabinet volume and design.
I've always loved music, of all genre's and styles, but lately I feel like an ignorant poser. My gosh there's so much to it. From speaker's polarity, to the sounds frequencies and the human ears abilities, to that "warm and fuzzy" tone old amps/receiver's have that I searched for only to find out its not necessarily a good thing. I have some really nice old receivers from the 70's that come to find out all need, at least, recapped. The Sansui 9090db being my first and favorite garage sale/thrift store, or in the 9090db's case, dump score. The more I learn from people like yourself the more hesitant I am to jump in and start soldering on priceless vintage stereo equipment.... but, gotta start somewhere!! I'll start on the old technics SA-303, and cross my fingers!
Thanks for sharing the priceless experience and information with those of us less endowed than yourself!!!
It just take some time to learn everything.
Awesome video!! What type of enclosure do you recommend to get some decent bass from ceiling speakers?
Most of them are designed to operate free air.
The explanation is legit my man!
Thanks!
I have a set of bass bases for a couple of monitors. These are 15 liter closed Boxes. With Vifa M18WO, which lend themselves to ported and langer boxes. Would they thus more present?
That enclosure seems to be way too small to make good bass.
Great video ..
What state are you located in?
About the lower end of frequency spectrum you mentioned, I've been looking for cheap subs, and noticed that some of these specify lower limit as 50 or even 60 Hz. Isn't this very high for 8" diameter sub? Or are these manufacturers the rare example of cheap manufacturer posting real specs? (Taga TSW-60 vs Jamo 210 )
That number means nothing, it is just marketing.
Perfect explanation, thank you a lot! Question - so actually every ported box adds additional extra power(pressure) around that Fb? And does this mean that best option for SQ and linear output is to go with sealed box?
People have been debating that for decades. I prefer ported since you can tune it flat with great low-end extension. Sealed enclosures don't have great low end extension. If you want to go sealed for sound quality then you will want a huge subwoofer and a DSP so you can shape the sound to get the low end extension.
@@DIYAudioGuy learned from you a lot. Thanks for doing a great job ! :)
this was very well explained thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey I got a question: If the air vibrating in the tube or port is vibrating at the same frequency as the speaker cone, why doesn't this cause phase cancellation? In other words, if the "push" of the cone is depressurizing the enclosure space and thus sucking in the air that is in the port, this would seem to my layman understanding like it would be the same as having a cone that is out of phase with your primary cone. Why is it that this is not the case and that we instead are getting a result that is in phase with the action of the cone? Thank you for the great video.
At the tuning frequency they are both in phase. Starting at the tuning frequency. If you start to decrease the frequency, the two will gradually become out of phase. This is why the drop off in output is so dramatic below the tuning frequency.
In a sub woofer, is the port the one giving out the bass or the speaker?
Both!
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you :)
I'm a newbie at home theater and have a question. I have a vented port on my sub and have "chuffing". Will the polyfill reduce the amount of chuffing? Thx and enjoyed your vlog!
Probably not, the port needs to be larger. One option is to turn the sub so that the port faces a wall, then the chuffing may not be audible.
I decided to go with pre cut 2x4 3/4 in mdf same 11.75 for top and sides ,bottom center. 18 in daytons
3.75 cuft per driver. Plate amp 500w dayton. On rollers 4 in off floor. Killer bass 90 to 18 hertz. Make sure to use lots of stuffing. I also put 3/8 in bolts (8) around the woofers to compress the whole cabinet ie increase rigidity. Trying new grs planer tweeter soon with cast frame usher 8 in carbon fiber towers
I did DIY in 1968..
Awesome!
Dual monoblock tpa3255 amps for towers @ 38v. Attention to details , research and carefully choosing drivers, with eq in phone , and good signal, quiet cables and short distance from amplifier to speakers all add up . I have retired and work in wheelchair. It helps the pain of a 68 year old diabetic heart amputee..
Love music loud
Love to praise the
Lord ....
Rustnoilum 'leather' color with epoxy coat makes a perfect finish that looks like no other and tough
I want to order a sound town KALE-112BPW but im so skeptical about the built since its says made of Plywood,but it still looks like a high quality thick plastic finish,. I have a doubt that the plywood made or wood finish cabinet is not durable than the plastic made cabinet for a PA system. Please enlightened me. Thank you
Hey thank you I needed this video I'm doing a spl build for next year and this put everything into perspective, very detailed 👌 been following you for a year now and always something to learn 😀
Glad it was helpful!
Keep up the good work
From my experience, with a 12 inch kicker sub, I’ve tried both ported and non ported. Non ported hit harder the the system I have and there’s a lot more resonance. Maybe the ported box I tried was made for a lot more power, idk
I am doing now a x2 12 inch Kickers L5, and DIY a ported box with a port in the middle. I had one of them in a sealed box, and sound was good, but heard same speaker in a ported box, and the sound and bass was 10 times more intense and deep then mine. So now i building it.
Very interesting. You explain it in a way that actually makes sense to me. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Drums will not sound correctly with a resonant system, it is mainly a loud “boom” box.
That sounds like a testable hypothesis.
I recently started watching your channel. First rate work , fairly easy to understand , should be very helpful . I recently started the planning stage for a low power bass cabinet (20 watts ). Being low power, efficiency will be a big deal . When installing 2 different speakers (2-4'' mid bass and a single 10'') in the same cabinet . How do you determine the port size ?
Here is what you want: ua-cam.com/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/v-deo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you so much
@@Mr.Robert1 Thanks for the input. I like to build my own stuff if I can .
Speaker port's for speaker port's but the science here is strong!
So strong that I haven't come across science channels that get it this correct!
Buddy, I'm impressed... The scientific community could learn something from this video and then some...
The majority of people don't know how much mass is weighing apon them... And a tube is never empty!
That is exactly what I was shooting for.
What is the ratio of speaker hole to the port size?
There's no magic ratio.
Question here: If I have stuff in my trunk and it blocks the port hallways, would it make a difference in sound?
Yes.
Dude I’m 2 mins into this video and still understand what the heck your talking about, great job I’m quite simple so I’m gonna keep watching and I’m sure I’ll learn something 🎉
Thanks.
I'm already loving this one.
Glad you liked it.
Redoing my Home Theater.
Simple question: Ported vs Sealed for "Deepest, Rumbling, Bass for lower frequencies"? 🤔 I have a dedicated HT Room complete with insulated walls and ceiling.
Either one will work, you just have to approach it differently.
If you go ported you will want a big driver and a huge enclosure with a very low Port tuning frequency, 20 hertz, maybe even lower.
The other option is to use a huge driver and a sealed enclosure and then use equalization to bring up the low end.
Thank you for the quick reply! Great channel and content by the way. 👍🏽
Wow, this is really good stuff, thank you for posting.
Glad you liked it!
What is the model of the woofer at the one minute mark? I am building a sub (for my car) and want to use type of woofer that is not those monsters that need lots of power. Thinking of using Peerless SLS that seems to work in sealed box. I would have used Visaton W250S but those seem to need a ported box and I think I will benefit from having 6 db roll off (sealed box). So the driver at your on minute mark looked like a nice "normal" driver.
bit.ly/3PxpG4z It is more of a "woofer" than a "subwoofer" I used one on an early build for the channel and it had no trouble keeping up with smaller home theater subwoofers. ua-cam.com/video/y0b1Gq7bCLQ/v-deo.html Would be awesome in a car door or in a 2-way set.
This video is jam packed full of information
Jammed for sure.