@leftyo9589 I've never gotten a custom billet cam that's cheap. I agree, from what I know Billy over there has always done good stuff. I mean hell he he did R&D head and cam stuff for the biggest Nascar teams like DEI, Childress Racing, and I think Evernham, but I know he did for the first 2 for a long time and while they were dominating.
The glide with the shaft hanging out 1/2” allows the yoke to go in till it bottoms out on it where the th400 the ears of the yoke probably hit the seal first. That probably equates to 3/16-1/4”. Then I’m guessing the new yoke if you lay it on top of the old one the ears are probably set back 1/4” or so making the shaft longer. If I’m right you can probably find a yoke to work.
CF driveshafts went nutz about 3 years ago. overnight they all went up about 30% in price. they are good though, smoother, faster/quicker, and safer. i put one in my daily a few years ago, absolutely luv the thing.
We built a lot of 400 motors using 283 blocks 1/8 over, 4" stroke mostly Moldex cranks and stock GM 6" rods(carbs Hilborns, Blown gas, alky, fuel) great combination wish we had today's heads and rods and rings On United Machine We worked with the Late John Erb on the Mopar quench dome pistons. Hypers are fine if you gap the rings correctly. They do not like detonation but then nothing does and better than cast. Detonation will destroy forged pistons too. KB had little to do with the KB piston line. United knows what they are doing. Icon pistons are fine so are KBs build for no detonation and go
The coatings are a good deal! Rings that usual come with the pistins are cheap rings. I use nothing but Total Seal Advance Profile rings, they have always worked great. Thin rings. I also use all coated bearings in engines, cam also...
Oh I just saw where some one has this issue going on with a 400. The yoke had to be machined, you might check your yoke and see if it is splined all the way, they had to get this one bored the first inch or so. You might check that. Some kind of odd ball 400 output shaft they had.
Im interested in the BBC cam for the 540 268/273 107LSA .472/.432. Do I purchase it on your website? This is for a 496 BBC twin turbo aluminum rod motor.
The prices of shit is fucking ridiculous these days! I have changed some plans due to it. I waited about 3 weeks for my Diamond pistons and about the same for an Isky cam
I know that motor is tight in there but you can’t move it forward an inch? I had to do that but now that I gave up on trying to make the 700r4 hood up I went back to the TH350 and ended up having to use the stock shaft for now till I have another one made
Certain turbo 400 yokes have to be machined depending on the design of the shaft, not sure if this is your issue but it could be, some of them cannot have the spines going all the way to the end of the yoke there has to be a certain amount of space with no spines so the yoke can go all the way in
I'm not sure I followed the output shaft saga correctly. If the only difference between the two is housing/seal position then... the problem was yoke selection? But if its bottomed out on the shaft I can only think measurement error.
I'd contact the trans builder and find out if there's a shorter tail housing for the TH400. Somebody screwed up the assembly. Why on God's green earth would you run the output shaft flush with the housing, ever, on any transmission? That's a part mismatch. I recently went through the exact same thing with pistons. Something at RaceTech isnt the way it was. My first rotating assembly from Scat got to me in weeks. Catastrophic failure caused me to have to replace all of it (stupid, trackside mistake). My new rotating assembly is the same 4340 Scat Crank, H beam Rods with 2000 bolts, and Custom Icon Pistons. Same coatings. Lateral gas ports and ring package. I'm impressed with the Icon Pistons. They're 8 grams lighter than the RaceTech parts. Hopefully, the domes clear the valves with my desired cam timing.
I hope now people understand why you pay extra when ordering from a dealer and not a box store. Now just imagine you have a problem with what you ordered, lol. All the troubles you might come across, that store will probably tell you to kick rocks.
Hey. I'm sure you thought of it, but how easy would it be to move the diff back an inch without affecting the chassis set up. By the way, I look at all your you tube moves. Thanks for all the information you provided to everyone racing. Happy New Years
I know why you went 4 inch stroke cause it's 99 percent of cranks sold. But so many disadvantages to it for reliability and balancing . Better to go less and make up elsewhere
That factory center counterweighted 3.86" forgeing Is SEXY for that 6.6 Truck L8T Engine !!! Fits right in too just finish airplaneing the counter weights . That or a 3 .875 aftermarket is the way to go . Iron block and 4" is no good for reliability . Just sayin ..... Youre also going to want to find offset .060 dowels for the heads to be moved fwd drivers side and rearward passenger side for intake valve unshrouding . Total Seal Gapless top , Napier second or nothing for rings . Especially for a mule !!!
If you want coated bearings call calico coatings talk to David. I use to work there. They can get you what you want.
That's hilarious that the Straub cam made 30 less, he was one of the many "guys" that claimed that he was the man.
I don't know much about Chris but Billy over there is good at what he does.
he charges well for it too. to be honest though, he tends to spec good stuff.
@leftyo9589 I've never gotten a custom billet cam that's cheap. I agree, from what I know Billy over there has always done good stuff. I mean hell he he did R&D head and cam stuff for the biggest Nascar teams like DEI, Childress Racing, and I think Evernham, but I know he did for the first 2 for a long time and while they were dominating.
That’s bad ass I would have never thought about a carbon fiber driveshaft in that manner. I like it And thanks for all your videos happy new year
The glide with the shaft hanging out 1/2” allows the yoke to go in till it bottoms out on it where the th400 the ears of the yoke probably hit the seal first. That probably equates to 3/16-1/4”. Then I’m guessing the new yoke if you lay it on top of the old one the ears are probably set back 1/4” or so making the shaft longer. If I’m right you can probably find a yoke to work.
Another view called me and that was it. I have bought a new yoke and this may fix everything.
I was gonna comment the same thing.
CF driveshafts went nutz about 3 years ago. overnight they all went up about 30% in price. they are good though, smoother, faster/quicker, and safer. i put one in my daily a few years ago, absolutely luv the thing.
This is what happens when investment brokers buy up all the parts manufacturers.....
We built a lot of 400 motors using 283 blocks 1/8 over, 4" stroke mostly Moldex cranks and stock GM 6" rods(carbs Hilborns, Blown gas, alky, fuel) great combination wish we had today's heads and rods and rings
On United Machine We worked with the Late John Erb on the Mopar quench dome pistons. Hypers are fine if you gap the rings correctly. They do not like detonation but then nothing does and better than cast. Detonation will destroy forged pistons too. KB had little to do with the KB piston line. United knows what they are doing. Icon pistons are fine so are KBs build for no detonation and go
The coatings are a good deal! Rings that usual come with the pistins are cheap rings. I use nothing but Total Seal Advance Profile rings, they have always worked great. Thin rings. I also use all coated bearings in engines, cam also...
Mark Williams makes both, carbon fiber and aluminum drive shafts. I bought an aluminum at around $900. 1350 u-joints and balanced...
Oh I just saw where some one has this issue going on with a 400. The yoke had to be machined, you might check your yoke and see if it is splined all the way, they had to get this one bored the first inch or so. You might check that. Some kind of odd ball 400 output shaft they had.
That’s not it. The back of the yoke hits the trans. Impossible to get in. If so there is no travel.
Eric, someone will buy that shaft from you. It's a 400.00 savings if you want just what you paid.
Sounds like you need to call Larry and have him build you an S10 chassis that will fit your carbon fiber driveshaft. See: Larry Larson Race Cars
Icon pistons came with my SBC rotating assembly 5 years ago. I thought they all came with them.
Are you able to send the driveshaft back to the manufacturer and have it shortened?
Im interested in the BBC cam for the 540 268/273 107LSA .472/.432. Do I purchase it on your website?
This is for a 496 BBC twin turbo aluminum rod motor.
It’s sold
How about that herbert cam? Is that available?
@@jdmcommuteall are sold
Those valve covers are sweet! I don’t know how they do all that welding with out warping the shit out of them
The prices of shit is fucking ridiculous these days! I have changed some plans due to it. I waited about 3 weeks for my Diamond pistons and about the same for an Isky cam
Damn I’m sorry about the driveshaft. That really sucks!
I know that motor is tight in there but you can’t move it forward an inch? I had to do that but now that I gave up on trying to make the 700r4 hood up I went back to the TH350 and ended up having to use the stock shaft for now till I have another one made
You still have to worry about the caps shooting through the floor. Ryan Martin nearly got killed by that
Fast Shafts. 3” chromoly driveshaft. 1350 ujoints. $700. Ship in one day. 🤘
Certain turbo 400 yokes have to be machined depending on the design of the shaft, not sure if this is your issue but it could be, some of them cannot have the spines going all the way to the end of the yoke there has to be a certain amount of space with no spines so the yoke can go all the way in
I was buying old magazine of engine masters tests in Popular hot ridding from 2003.
When did you do the engine masters tests?
2007-2010,2012,2014
I'm not sure I followed the output shaft saga correctly. If the only difference between the two is housing/seal position then... the problem was yoke selection? But if its bottomed out on the shaft I can only think measurement error.
I'd contact the trans builder and find out if there's a shorter tail housing for the TH400. Somebody screwed up the assembly. Why on God's green earth would you run the output shaft flush with the housing, ever, on any transmission? That's a part mismatch. I recently went through the exact same thing with pistons. Something at RaceTech isnt the way it was. My first rotating assembly from Scat got to me in weeks. Catastrophic failure caused me to have to replace all of it (stupid, trackside mistake). My new rotating assembly is the same 4340 Scat Crank, H beam Rods with 2000 bolts, and Custom Icon Pistons. Same coatings. Lateral gas ports and ring package. I'm impressed with the Icon Pistons. They're 8 grams lighter than the RaceTech parts. Hopefully, the domes clear the valves with my desired cam timing.
And I thought that crap only happened to me when I ordered things almost never get what I order.
I thought it only happened to me. And sometimes it can be up to a Year before I use the parts to discover they are wrong in some way.
I run a PST Carbon Drive shaft
I hope now people understand why you pay extra when ordering from a dealer and not a box store. Now just imagine you have a problem with what you ordered, lol. All the troubles you might come across, that store will probably tell you to kick rocks.
Total recall " 2 Weeks"
How about a shorter rear end yoke?
I saw u cut last vid short but figured u didnt need abunch of comments telling u. Saw the one alread
Oh wow this is kinda crazy on parts and what's your opinion on h and I beam rods on how effects power or whatever
Hey Bruh! Maybe we could work out a deal where I could buy the drive shaft from you, so a new one won’t cost you so much?
Hey. I'm sure you thought of it, but how easy would it be to move the diff back an inch without affecting the chassis set up. By the way, I look at all your you tube moves. Thanks for all the information you provided to everyone racing. Happy New Years
I got a set of King coated bearing.
You can’t get the driveshaft shortened???
No it’s carbon fiber.
I seen they could be shortened not made longer carbon fiber that is. But it's only what I read. only trying to give ideas.
Valve cover info
What’s up with this Dragon Slayer stuff. I don’t see anything listed at store.
I'll take the 540 camshaft Eric . Let me know I'll send you cash asap sir
You sure need coatrd bearings when you use alcohol fuel...
I know why you went 4 inch stroke cause it's 99 percent of cranks sold. But so many disadvantages to it for reliability and balancing . Better to go less and make up elsewhere
That factory center counterweighted 3.86" forgeing Is SEXY for that 6.6 Truck L8T Engine !!! Fits right in too just finish airplaneing the counter weights . That or a 3 .875 aftermarket is the way to go . Iron block and 4" is no good for reliability . Just sayin .....
Youre also going to want to find offset .060 dowels for the heads to be moved fwd drivers side and rearward passenger side for intake valve unshrouding .
Total Seal Gapless top , Napier second or nothing for rings . Especially for a mule !!!
I did it to get close to same cubic inch as sbc. 4inch stroke is not less reliable for most people. Many many run for a long time.
Kb hyperutectic bullllshit pistons, hyperutectic was a bullshit term used to sell pistons. Hahaha
LOL Really?? Factory LS pistons are all
hypereutectic, except for the supercharged engines.
Yeah, hypereutectic is BS! SMH
@funfun8095 good luck finding a definition of it