All of the music and sound effects for this video were sourced through Epidemic Sound. Use this link to get a 30-day access for FREE: share.epidemicsound.com/KarinMajokaMAY23 And if you want to get access to additional content and want to support my work, please check out my Patreon page: www.patreon.com/karinmajoka
Herrlich, dieses Intro!! 😂😂😂 Würde es GTM irgendwann mal geben sollen, Grand-Theft-Majoka, ich würde es blind kaufen! 😁👍 Tolles, sehr interessantes Video!! 😃👍👍 Witzig, dass Du mittlerweile schon auf der Straße erkannt wirst, kann aber in so nem Meltingpot wie Berlin wohl durchaus zweimal passieren. Denke, hat beides seine Berechtigung, hast Du ja auch sehr gut ausgearbeitet. Sollte man auch nich so eng sehen heutzutage ob analog oder digital... Hab nach unserem letzten Chat auch mal wieder öfters meine alte Sony 6K mitgenommen und mich auch mal mehr mit Zonenfokus beschäftigt. Bin übrigens auch mehr nen Suchermensch, Klappdisplay kann zwar aus der Hüfte oder blöden Winkeln praktisch sein, bevorzuge dennoch den Sucher... Hat halt Alles sein für und wieder... Zumindest elegant gelößt zum Schluss, wer die neue Besitzerin der Fuji-Kamera ist... 😉😁 Frag mich, ob es zu dem Intro auch noch ein Video mit den Outtakes geben wird... 😁 Hast Du wohl kaum in einem Take abgedreht... 😉😁😁
Danke für deinen Kommentar Olli, weiß ich total zu schätzen! :) Cool zu hören, dass du deine Sony auch mal wieder ausgeführt hast. Ein Freund von mir hat die A6000 auch und ich fand die schon immer sehr handlich und praktisch. Aber ich schließe mich da der Sucher-Fraktion absolut an. Oh ja, da bringst du mich auf eine Idee, vielleicht schaue ich mal was ich an Outtakes für Patreon zusammen bekomme. ;)
I use the large button on the front of the camera for this (Fn2 on my X-Pro3). I find it easier to locate when the camera is to my eye - and I can keep my finger on the shutter button ;-)
One trick on the X100V is to set focus to manual and assign a button for single AF, the one next to the shutter release works best for me. The focus single AF set holds even after power off. I use both a Leica M and X100V
I tried it that way but it does not even feel closely the same. You get the focus point on the screen but no distance zone. And since there are no hard focusing stops it's impossible to set it to a distance just by feeling the focusing wheel. So that did not work out for me at all sadly.
The distance indicator on the ev should be set on the feet/meter position instead of the pixel one, which makes it feel more like an old fashioned lense. But also set one of the back buttons or like myself the front button as a focusing button when on manual. Set the camera on f8, push the back button to use as a different zone of focus. For myself I point down, push the button and the camera is now at 1 meter focusing. The indicator is just to help out with the range.
@@KarinMajoka It's not the same, but it works for one (more or less static) "zone". Jay has made a good video about the required settings: ua-cam.com/video/osdNETgsJpU/v-deo.html. I guess most street and film aficionados will be more pleased with the "DoF scale" set to "film format basis" instead of "pixel basis", though. The way I changed "zones" was to use back button focusing; either focusing directly on the subject, or on something that was roughly at the distance where I wanted the new center of the focusing range to be. 😉✌
One tip for you: If you struggle with the processing-time after you took your shot because of the clarity setting, don't change the setting ! Do this instead: Change the burst mode to 3 or 5 pictures or what suits you the best. This will disable the clarity (you can check it in the Q-Menue. The option is grayed-out). After you set the burst mode to single shot, your saved clarity-setting is enabled again. This works for me when I shoot wit my X-Pro3. Clarity is a nice feature but uses a lot of processing power and slows down your shooting. It also doesn't matter if you set clarity to a + or - setting. Everything except "0" will take some processing time. So, maybe this tip from a unknown greenhorn 😊to a master in street-photography is helpful.
The intro is so well made, love it! The small coincidences as side quests are so sweet. I’ve been juggling between my XT4 and M6 during my recent trip and I have pretty much the same thoughts as you. I really like the filmic look you can get with the fuji cameras. I did glue a pro mist filter to the lens on my XT4 for that extra baked in film look though 😆
Thanks for an interesting approach to a camera comparison video. I think I will try to use your approach when I compare my Fuji digital mirrorless to my Leica 35mm film rangefinder.
Leica M6 with the following lenses: 21mm f/1.4 35mm f/1.4 90mm f/2 Fuji X-Pro2 with the following lenses: 16mm f/1.4 23mm f/1.4 56mm f/1.2
I had the X100V for over a year, and I sold it because I couldn't make it work for me. Its quirks + its boring (and sub par) lens made me detest it. Plus, when autofocus is a limit you need to go manual, well, it is awfully implemented. Generally speaking, I've always found its rendering very flat and """digital""", doesn't matter all they blablabla everybody says about the simulations, they look gimmicky. I made a side by side test between the X100V and my "new" shiny M240 + a humble Voigtlander 35 1.4 Nokton II SC. The Leica + Voigt destroyed in every way the X100V: sharpness, out of focus transition, color separation, 3D feeling, bokeh quality. OK, the Leica combo is more expensive, but it's also an over 10 years old camera, and the Nokton is easy to find between 400 and 500 euro. Why getting ANY Fuji when in the digital world you have digital Leica M cameras?
Although the Fuji X100 has the appearance of a rangefinder, it isn't one. It handles very differently from a Leica M. Also the Fuji lens doesn't really combine well with Leica glas. You say it does, but your sample images prove the opposite. I tried hard to complement my film Ms with a Fuji X100V. It just didn't work for me. Eventually I sold the Fuji and picked up a used M 240. That did work right away. I'd be surprised if you won't go the same way before too long ;-) (BTW, you don't need a digital camera to train yourself seeing workable reflections.)
You really make me want to go out and fill some HP5, but I always end up not taking enough images and then I get worried about the film staying in the camera too long. I need to get more trigger happy ;) So shooting frequency is something I need to actually increase! William and Uwe are legends!
@@KarinMajoka maybe it's because from my childhood I just remembered to not shoot unnecessarily, since I had to save up for film. Now when it's digital, shooting too much becomes a media management disaster.
Mayb.e the best comparison ever! My M3.M6 i seldom shoot from hip. Frame and take it! I someimes offer similar image from phone! Digital I shoot even carefull, more than film.. Like your work. I prefer to wait at certain places and wait for my actors! Shooting moving people, too haphazard..
I would congratulate you for being so famous that people recognise you on the street. But on the other hand you pressed the jump button in front of the camera cupboard… Noob 😜 But nice theme to this video. Well done! 😁👍
Ich finde Street Photo mit Film heutzutage als Verschwendung des Materials. Film ja, aber mit Konzept. Die Digi ist gut genug für Schnappschüsse. Jedenfalls ein Klasse FIlm von Dir! Leci abo!
Hi Karin, I have both Fujis and Leicas. I basically focus them the exact same way. On Leica, I pull to a point just further away than the subject, by finger feel, while lifting the camera, then, using the rangefinder, pull more slowly until the patch "pops" or lines up. On Fuji, I use what Fuji calls "instant auto focus". (You set the focus mode switch to "M", which gives you a Leica-size focusing patch, and choose in the menu whether you want this mode to work continuously or single-servo.) In use, I generally press the focus button as soon as the camera is pointed more or less at the subject and hold until I can see through the finder. (I set the "instant whatever" to be continuous.) If the focus patch has a green border, I let go of the button and don't worry about focus again until I need to, just as I would do with the Leica. Zone focusing with the distance scale isn't wonderful on the Fuji. What's more, their depth of field indicators are WAY more conservative than the Leica's. Way too much so, in my opinion. If I zone focus the Fuji - and I don't often - I just focus on something the right distance away and then don't touch the button. On the other hand, with the Fuji you can really use autofocus if you want. I'm not a great auto-focuser, but my method is to set the mode switch to continuous and choose the wide-area tracking mode (all the little spots turned on). Through the viewfinder, you can see that it's locked on to the subject - hopefully - or let go of the focus button and start again. I actually use this mode mostly with the 21mm equivalent (it's 14mm, actually) which uses an auxiliary finder, and I don't bother to check through the viewfinder to see what's happening. That accomplishes the same thing as zone focusing - I just don't fuss with it and it rarely misses. (It's a 14mm after all). I don't use the Fujis' change-into-an SLR superpower anywhere near as much as I should. You can push the viewfinder control lever and instantly get a little window in the corner of the finder that shows a magnified view of whatever is in the focusing patch to check focus. You can then manually adjust focus in the that little window, SLR-style. I never think to do that until it's too late. Of course, if you pull the lever, it takes about a second and the whole darn thing literally becomes a mirrorless SLR. Super handy when paralax is an issue. Like if you are shooting through a mirror or small window or over somebody's shoulder. I never think of that in time either. (I do use my X-Pro3 as an SLR to shoot with a macro lens a lot, though.) BTW, you can return the focusing patch to the center of the frame by tapping the joystick. I habitually double-tap it from time to time just to make sure I haven't accidentally left it in the corner of the frame. I hope this is somewhat helpful. - Carl
Thank you so much for your details comment! I really haven’t dived deep into the options you have with the Fuji yet, so I will definitely look more I to it. Especially the “instant auto focus” option sounds like a great workaround. I think maybe I am just “spoiled” with the M6. For me it’s the most minimal and simple focusing system yet the most effective one. I would love to have the exact same system on a digital camera as well, but sadly digital Leica M bodies such as the M10 are just out of my budget sadly
Hi Karin! Thanks for including me in the video!! It's funny how when we talked about our cameras, you said maybe someday you'll also have a digital M, and here you are! Congrats again on the M10! Cheers, William
Hi William, cool to hear from you here in the comment section! It was cool running into you that day. And who would have thought that „some day“ would come sooner than expected. Take care and hopefully see you soon! :)
I think so too - but since the other digital M cameras are too old, the M10 would be the only logical option. Which is a camera which is slightly out of my budget (at the moment) sadly.
8-bit Karin! 👏😊 An interesting video especially the introduction! 👍 My favourites were the couple sitting inside the restaurant and the skateboarder ‘catching air’ on the steps.
If you struggle with autofocus on the X100v, here's 2 things what you can do: make the AF box larger, by activating AF (e.g. depressing the joystick) and than moving one of control wheels. For wide angle and especially within street photography, that makes the camera more accurate. Alternatively, you can choose AF zone instead of the box, and you can choose the size of the zone (or rather the number of smaller boxes) the same way as mentioned above. Bigger box / zone will be easier to move around, and it will increase the likelihood of getting it onto your point of interest. Of course, manual focus with focus peaking is also an option, but you gotta determine does it work for you yourself, given how small the focusing ring is on a X100v. On top of all mentioned, you can play with constant focus and I would advise you to to use continuous shooting; your camera has leaf shutter; it's really quiet, so there's no chance someone will hear you. Not on a busy street. Now I don't own any of X100 series (yet), but I do own 3 other DSLR styled Fujis, and other than the leaf shutter and OVF all Fujifilm cameras are working the same way. With its "feather shutter" I can shoot my X-H1 pretty much in a same stealthy way like you with the X100v, other than the OVF, and, of course, the size...
6:10 X100V manual focus solution - As the price of a used X100V is so high at the moment I would suggest trading it in for an X-Pro3 & manual focus lens adapters (and some vintage lenses).
I actually also thought about the idea if the X-Pro series might be the better system for me. I like the idea of a small camera with no interchangeable lenses though and I hate the crop-factor when using something like my M-mount lenses, since I enjoy wider focal lengths. Might be worth borrowing one out nonetheless.
@@KarinMajoka Tamron are meant to be bringing out an 11-20mm Fuji X-Mount lens (15.5 to 30mm Full Frame equiv.). Slap a 24mm FD lens on for 36mm equiv. TTArtizan (pardon if I got the spelling wrong) make some good wide manual focus lenses for Fuji you could try one of them they are pretty cheap.
Nice to see you having so much fun with the Fuji! And we all know a video is on the horizon, talking about your favorite film recipes and how they compare to film ;-)
Thanks for your comment! :) To be honest: I am not sure about that. I don't want to jump on that Fuji fangirl/fanboy train and I feel like there is so much recipe content out there already. I don't think much on my channel will change, besides taking out a digital camera from time to time only shoots. :)
@@KarinMajoka That's very fair! I looked at it this way: you have so much experience shooting film, that your take on this whole debate would be very interesting to people. But the point you're making is very fair - and fully behind not wanting your channel to change :-)
A better focus solution for the X100v. Manual focus. Use the ovf. At the bottom you'll see the distance scale. In the focus settings, set your depth of field scale to "film format". Now you will see an extra blue line on the distance scale in your ovf so you can see the focal plane that is in focus. Now you can zone focus just like with analog lenses with the depth of field scale printed on top of the lens like the one on your m6. Hope this helps!
The intro might be the best ever. ha ha. I want to love the Fuji cameras, but the X100 series is the only one that I've connected with, and even that was kind of short-lived. Also, I never felt like the film simulations were actually simulations. But I was a lot happier thinking of them as cool presets. And that's so cool! You got recognized!!
Thank you Jamie, I appreciate your comment! :) I am also still undecided about the X100 series. It's a great camera and there are many things I like about it (and which probably make this camera so popular). But deep down, I still think that something like a Leica M10 would be the better choice for me, since I miss a "real" rangefinder and the zone focusing style of my M6. I guess people view the simulations differently. Since I hate (!) editing images, I simply stick to them and I treat them like film scans, where I only look into the RAW file when something does not work for me.
Klasse Video, hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Hätte wirklich nicht gedacht, dass mir die digitalen Bilder im Direktvergleich so gut gefallen. Denke es wäre mir wirklich schwer gefallen zu erraten welches analog oder digital ist. 👍
I'm a Fuji shooter, but I watch more film stuff on youtube than digital. I think shooting Fuji exists somewhere between the experience you get with a modern Canon or Sony, and a 35mm film camera. it's a satisfying system to shoot. I like the inexpensive manual glass out of China, the Meike 28mm 2.8 pancake and X-T30 is my favorite pair.
You prove Germans do have humour. Myth busted🤣. I really like your video's it's really helpful as a beginner. I was considering the X-Pro3 and the X100V for a while and ended up with a Voigtlander Bessa R3A. Both Fujifilm camera's didn't give me the full rangefinder experience I was looking for. I do understand your love for your M6.
Your long familiarity with the m6 (you noted muscle memory in your focusing process) would also be a factor in the relative scoring, wouldn’t it? Fun video. Nice images. Interesting “side quest.”
Yes for sure! Of course I am biased. But I have to say: I got the Fuji in late summer / early autumn last year so at the point of making the video I already shot with it for approx. half a year. :)
I use zone focusing, so that are pretty much the settings I would shoot anyways :) but a cloudy day in Germany can become rather dark quickly, so even with ISO 1600 I sometimes had to open up to F5.6 with 1/250
What a shoot-out. Starting with a funny surprise and ending with a not less surprising fact. And in between a philosophical outcome of the kinda challenge. Like it!
Thanks! I recognized a lot. Except for subject interest and EVF. With my MP, I mostly use zone framing up to 50mm. Just like you, I feel the position for close, medium, far. I distrust the autofocus of my OM 1, It often thinks it knows better. I'll try to find out if my subject interest is different with the two. The EVF is only used for awkward positions. It doesn't feel natural. Also thanks for showing me a bit of Berlin again. I will visit again soon, because there is now a daily night train (strange combination in English and German) from where I live in photogenic Suisse.
Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it! Oh yeah, I know that feeling of having trust issues with your camera haha. I am a bit of a a control freak and like to be in control of my settings 100% of the time. That way it’s only me and not the camera to blame if an image does not work out
I don't have an xv100 but an xpro 3. One of the tricks I do is pretend I'm looking off at another direction or at something else while my camera is at my side or near my waist then take the shot with the camera already pre aimed at the level and angle I wish. I can feel the AF lock on and stop before the shutter goes, which I can also feel. Or if I'm manually shooting, I can just feel the shutter actuate. It's a lot of fun to pretend you're not even noticing the subjects and people are more likely to look at the person than what's in their hands if it's not out front and obvious if they do look your way. Great video and looks like a lot of fun!
Great video, as usual. Your ability to be open to understanding how gear can affect your style / subject matter and composition is really an excellent point. Funny, my first digital was a D700 which I used for about 10 years before some hand issues caused me to switch to an XPro-3. Even with the digital switch I was still shooting very slowly. Once went to Paris for 3 weeks and shot less than 200 images for the full trip even though I was walking daily about 7 to 9 hours. Added an M6 TTL to the toolbox last Summer and still shoot slowly. With digital, I just didn’t want to process thousands of images..like Wedding photographers typically do…😊. I agree with you that with digital, I tend to shoot more layered/ experimental images where as with film, it’s one or two at a scene and I’m done. I’d live it if you could do a video on zone focusing..I know there are many out there but my thick brain can’t seem to ‘get it’..perhaps with your style, I might learn to zone focus and infinity focus in order to improve my ‘hit rate. Keep making these great videos! All the best from Washington State, not the DC😊 17:36
Thanks for your comment! Wow, that is so interesting that you stick to a more or less analog shooting style with your xpro. I wonder how big your “success rate” with these shots were, how many of the 200 images did you keep? On a three week trip I would probably shoot a roll a day anyway so still not that little haha
@@KarinMajoka I'd say true "keepers" meaning something I'd want to print or put in a book were about 25 to maybe 30. As you mentioned, digital gives you more immediate feedback, especially if you are experimenting with light effects. I'm lucky because a lot of what I shot is not moving, but in a changing light environment so I feel like I have a bit more time to get the shot I want (@myphotographysofar). I'm still struggling to learn zone focusing on my M6 so I often chicken out and just grab the xpro3 to get fast focus for much of my street shots. Really admire your channel. I took German in school for 3 years...there is no way I could walk and talk in another language will showing people wonderful photography skills like you do! 😀
That intro and theme going on through the video is really nice. Nice to see the differences in usage between both cameras. I noticed the same you said about framing with de Fuji being sloppier. Do you use a Jobo or an other machine? otherwise using a 1+1 solution not very economical How was your photowalk in Berlin? Was it a success and will there be a follow up? Last video you spoke about camera trades/swaps. You you tell me something more about this? 🙈 How do you get into this?
Thank you Uwe, I appreciate it! I develop everything my hand without a machine. The 1+1 dilution gives me exactly the results I want. And since XTOL is not really expensive and since it takes me some time to work my way through the 5L kit, I will most likely stick to it. :) The photowalk in Berlin was awesome! We were quite a lot of people actually. I am planning a photowalk in Katowice, Poland for the end of the month actually. Regarding camera trades: It was all arranged privately through eBay marketplace or Facebook groups.
@@KarinMajoka aha, yeah, I'm a bit stuck in my mind with mainly shooting 120 and buying 1L packages. Then 1+1 is only enough for 4 rolls. In 1+3 times of ID-11 and XT-3 are getting too long, i love Ilfosol 3 for HP5+. Hmm I am already quite full till July, so a WE to Poland doesn't fit in the schedule unfortunately. I hope that will become a big success too, so you organise a third one 😉
Congratulations on the X100V, it is being very difficult to find one here in the USA. Mine just shipped today after almost a month of placing a back order in a retail store.
@@KarinMajoka Maybe I am too trigger happy, but a battery will last me about 6 hours with a 64GB sd card. I'm just shooting jpegs at the moment which helps on storage cost
I've only shot film a couple of times and all the points you make on the X100 side of your chart are basically the reasons for it. The X100 series is great but if you prefer zone focus maybe take a look at the X-E4 and a Voigtlander 23mm. No OVF on that combo though.
@@KarinMajoka Totally get that. I have the X100F still despite me planning to sell it so many times. It's just such a perfect package of a camera. Oder wie Loriot sagen würde: Ein Leben ohne X100 ist möglich aber sinnlos. ;)
So as far as I know the only way to really do zone focus on the x100v is to put the distance scale on the screen/vf and have to set it there each time you want to change it, which can be quick but not as fast as having it on the lens
I actually tried it and did not like it at all, since you have the distant point but no real zone or range as with the distance scale on a manual lens. Did not really work for me sadly!
@@KarinMajoka hmm... Mine has the point, and then a little blue area around it that grows or shrinks to denote range with changes in the aperture or focus
I also use the distance scale when manually focusing. It’s not perfect and can accidentally be changed if you touch the focus ring, but overall it does the trick for me. Depending on the light I can ofter set it at f8 or f11 and most things are in the range of focus. Makes it easier to concentrate on composition and exposure. (For me, at least.)
Very interesting comparison. I had a Fuji X100S but quickly sold it as it felt too light when compared to M3 which feels fantastic to pick up and use. I now shoot a Fuji X-E1 which has a nice weight with a retro lens attached. When I saw your shooting frequency comparison I thought of my Olympus Pen D3 half frame camera. If you load in a dark bag you can get 80 shots per roll which moves it into the digital advantage space of not holding back. Also, the manual focus has 3 zone indents, similar to your own zone method.
I actually wanted to buy an X100S or X100T instead of the V. But the prices are so crazy right now that it did not make much sense. But it’s really interesting, I love my M6, but the slightly smaller package and lighter weight really resonates with me. I have not shot a half frame camera yet, but that sounds about right! :)
@@KarinMajoka Of course it is different. Every time you release the shutter on a film-camera, money goes out of your bank-account. So you better make damn sure it's a good shot! A digital camera, with a 126GB memory-card, and autofocus, you can have it in your hand, below hip level, and just shoot continously. I have riot pictures where you can literally read the serial number of the police-officers gun, shot from below waist-level. Imagine doing that with a 35mm film-camera? You are comparing oranges and apples.
@@hansemannluchter643 I don't see your problem. It wasn't necessarily about comparing the technology, but about the differences in shooting style. It's all about the purely subjective experience. But your opinion is welcome too, no offense.
Actually, the "comparing oranges and apples" is rather fitting, since it might be true. But in this video I am not saying "oranges are better than apples". But I am focusing on things both fruit have, but that differ and are worth noting. E.g. texture of the peel, sourness of the juice, method of eating etc. (metaphorically speaking). So there might be people who prefer one over another and that is totally fair - but that's not the point. It still makes sense to compare certain specific elements, since it's not about the fruit itself about about differences of isolated elements. Damn, now I want to eat an orange.
@@KarinMajoka Butt.. You are STILL comparing oranges and apples! I grew up with Nikon F and F2. I have both, in working order, in my collection. Do I use them? Absolutely NOT. I'm not a millionaire.
All of the music and sound effects for this video were sourced through Epidemic Sound. Use this link to get a 30-day access for FREE: share.epidemicsound.com/KarinMajokaMAY23
And if you want to get access to additional content and want to support my work, please check out my Patreon page: www.patreon.com/karinmajoka
I’m not even 2 minutes in and this has to be my favourite intro to a youtube photo vid ever! ❤
♥️
Oh I love it! Such a cool idea with the videogame Style
Love the intro, great creativity!
So fun! And congratulations!
Thanks Alex 🙏
Thanks Alex 🙏
Herrlich, dieses Intro!! 😂😂😂 Würde es GTM irgendwann mal geben sollen, Grand-Theft-Majoka, ich würde es blind kaufen! 😁👍
Tolles, sehr interessantes Video!! 😃👍👍 Witzig, dass Du mittlerweile schon auf der Straße erkannt wirst, kann aber in so nem Meltingpot wie Berlin wohl durchaus zweimal passieren.
Denke, hat beides seine Berechtigung, hast Du ja auch sehr gut ausgearbeitet. Sollte man auch nich so eng sehen heutzutage ob analog oder digital...
Hab nach unserem letzten Chat auch mal wieder öfters meine alte Sony 6K mitgenommen und mich auch mal mehr mit Zonenfokus beschäftigt. Bin übrigens auch mehr nen Suchermensch, Klappdisplay kann zwar aus der Hüfte oder blöden Winkeln praktisch sein, bevorzuge dennoch den Sucher... Hat halt Alles sein für und wieder... Zumindest elegant gelößt zum Schluss, wer die neue Besitzerin der Fuji-Kamera ist... 😉😁
Frag mich, ob es zu dem Intro auch noch ein Video mit den Outtakes geben wird... 😁 Hast Du wohl kaum in einem Take abgedreht... 😉😁😁
Danke für deinen Kommentar Olli, weiß ich total zu schätzen! :) Cool zu hören, dass du deine Sony auch mal wieder ausgeführt hast. Ein Freund von mir hat die A6000 auch und ich fand die schon immer sehr handlich und praktisch.
Aber ich schließe mich da der Sucher-Fraktion absolut an.
Oh ja, da bringst du mich auf eine Idee, vielleicht schaue ich mal was ich an Outtakes für Patreon zusammen bekomme. ;)
I loved every second of this video. Brilliantly executed concept, fun review, lovely photos, and surprise portraits!
And the twist 😚👌
Thank you Norbi, I appreciate it! :)
This Intro is hillarious 😂😂😂😂 That really brightened up my day….Grand Theft Majoka 😂😊😊
Nice shots and a Fuji suits you really well 👍🏻😉
Glad you enjoyed watching it as much as I enjoyed making it! I had to laugh really hard while filming sometimes. And thank you! :)
I use the large button on the front of the camera for this (Fn2 on my X-Pro3). I find it easier to locate when the camera is to my eye - and I can keep my finger on the shutter button ;-)
One trick on the X100V is to set focus to manual and assign a button for single AF, the one next to the shutter release works best for me. The focus single AF set holds even after power off. I use both a Leica M and X100V
Oh that sounds interesting! I will definitely try this - thank you a lot! :)
Wow, the game style video is very innovative.
Hi! The X100V allows zone focusing as well. Just put it to M for manual focusing and blend in the distance indicator. Cheers!
I tried it that way but it does not even feel closely the same. You get the focus point on the screen but no distance zone. And since there are no hard focusing stops it's impossible to set it to a distance just by feeling the focusing wheel. So that did not work out for me at all sadly.
The distance indicator on the ev should be set on the feet/meter position instead of the pixel one, which makes it feel more like an old fashioned lense. But also set one of the back buttons or like myself the front button as a focusing button when on manual. Set the camera on f8, push the back button to use as a different zone of focus. For myself I point down, push the button and the camera is now at 1 meter focusing. The indicator is just to help out with the range.
@@KarinMajoka It's not the same, but it works for one (more or less static) "zone". Jay has made a good video about the required settings: ua-cam.com/video/osdNETgsJpU/v-deo.html.
I guess most street and film aficionados will be more pleased with the "DoF scale" set to "film format basis" instead of "pixel basis", though. The way I changed "zones" was to use back button focusing; either focusing directly on the subject, or on something that was roughly at the distance where I wanted the new center of the focusing range to be. 😉✌
One tip for you: If you struggle with the processing-time after you took your shot because of the clarity setting, don't change the setting ! Do this instead: Change the burst mode to 3 or 5 pictures or what suits you the best. This will disable the clarity (you can check it in the Q-Menue. The option is grayed-out). After you set the burst mode to single shot, your saved clarity-setting is enabled again. This works for me when I shoot wit my X-Pro3.
Clarity is a nice feature but uses a lot of processing power and slows down your shooting. It also doesn't matter if you set clarity to a + or - setting. Everything except "0" will take some processing time.
So, maybe this tip from a unknown greenhorn 😊to a master in street-photography is helpful.
The intro is so well made, love it! The small coincidences as side quests are so sweet. I’ve been juggling between my XT4 and M6 during my recent trip and I have pretty much the same thoughts as you. I really like the filmic look you can get with the fuji cameras. I did glue a pro mist filter to the lens on my XT4 for that extra baked in film look though 😆
Thanks for an interesting approach to a camera comparison video. I think I will try to use your approach when I compare my Fuji digital mirrorless to my Leica 35mm film rangefinder.
Leica M6 with the following lenses:
21mm f/1.4
35mm f/1.4
90mm f/2
Fuji X-Pro2 with the following lenses:
16mm f/1.4
23mm f/1.4
56mm f/1.2
I had the X100V for over a year, and I sold it because I couldn't make it work for me. Its quirks + its boring (and sub par) lens made me detest it. Plus, when autofocus is a limit you need to go manual, well, it is awfully implemented. Generally speaking, I've always found its rendering very flat and """digital""", doesn't matter all they blablabla everybody says about the simulations, they look gimmicky.
I made a side by side test between the X100V and my "new" shiny M240 + a humble Voigtlander 35 1.4 Nokton II SC. The Leica + Voigt destroyed in every way the X100V: sharpness, out of focus transition, color separation, 3D feeling, bokeh quality.
OK, the Leica combo is more expensive, but it's also an over 10 years old camera, and the Nokton is easy to find between 400 and 500 euro.
Why getting ANY Fuji when in the digital world you have digital Leica M cameras?
Although the Fuji X100 has the appearance of a rangefinder, it isn't one. It handles very differently from a Leica M. Also the Fuji lens doesn't really combine well with Leica glas. You say it does, but your sample images prove the opposite. I tried hard to complement my film Ms with a Fuji X100V. It just didn't work for me. Eventually I sold the Fuji and picked up a used M 240. That did work right away. I'd be surprised if you won't go the same way before too long ;-) (BTW, you don't need a digital camera to train yourself seeing workable reflections.)
You really make me want to go out and fill some HP5, but I always end up not taking enough images and then I get worried about the film staying in the camera too long.
I need to get more trigger happy ;)
So shooting frequency is something I need to actually increase!
William and Uwe are legends!
So interesting how these things differ from photographer to photographer! At least your approach is way more cost efficient haha. :)
@@KarinMajoka maybe it's because from my childhood I just remembered to not shoot unnecessarily, since I had to save up for film. Now when it's digital, shooting too much becomes a media management disaster.
Mayb.e the best comparison ever! My M3.M6 i seldom shoot from hip. Frame and take it! I someimes offer similar image from phone! Digital I shoot even carefull, more than film.. Like your work. I prefer to wait at certain places and wait for my actors! Shooting moving people, too haphazard..
For me the SLR style live view would make the X100V win out for me, but can't really argue with zone focusing!
Did you see Uwe taking the shot? Usually when I'm walking about with my camera I'm acutely aware of other people with their cameras.
I would congratulate you for being so famous that people recognise you on the street. But on the other hand you pressed the jump button in front of the camera cupboard…
Noob 😜
But nice theme to this video. Well done! 😁👍
Hahahahha, touché, love this comment 😂😂
Best intro ever 😂
Ich finde Street Photo mit Film heutzutage als Verschwendung des Materials. Film ja, aber mit Konzept. Die Digi ist gut genug für Schnappschüsse. Jedenfalls ein Klasse FIlm von Dir! Leci abo!
Hi Karin, I have both Fujis and Leicas. I basically focus them the exact same way. On Leica, I pull to a point just further away than the subject, by finger feel, while lifting the camera, then, using the rangefinder, pull more slowly until the patch "pops" or lines up. On Fuji, I use what Fuji calls "instant auto focus". (You set the focus mode switch to "M", which gives you a Leica-size focusing patch, and choose in the menu whether you want this mode to work continuously or single-servo.) In use, I generally press the focus button as soon as the camera is pointed more or less at the subject and hold until I can see through the finder. (I set the "instant whatever" to be continuous.) If the focus patch has a green border, I let go of the button and don't worry about focus again until I need to, just as I would do with the Leica.
Zone focusing with the distance scale isn't wonderful on the Fuji. What's more, their depth of field indicators are WAY more conservative than the Leica's. Way too much so, in my opinion. If I zone focus the Fuji - and I don't often - I just focus on something the right distance away and then don't touch the button.
On the other hand, with the Fuji you can really use autofocus if you want. I'm not a great auto-focuser, but my method is to set the mode switch to continuous and choose the wide-area tracking mode (all the little spots turned on). Through the viewfinder, you can see that it's locked on to the subject - hopefully - or let go of the focus button and start again. I actually use this mode mostly with the 21mm equivalent (it's 14mm, actually) which uses an auxiliary finder, and I don't bother to check through the viewfinder to see what's happening. That accomplishes the same thing as zone focusing - I just don't fuss with it and it rarely misses. (It's a 14mm after all).
I don't use the Fujis' change-into-an SLR superpower anywhere near as much as I should. You can push the viewfinder control lever and instantly get a little window in the corner of the finder that shows a magnified view of whatever is in the focusing patch to check focus. You can then manually adjust focus in the that little window, SLR-style. I never think to do that until it's too late. Of course, if you pull the lever, it takes about a second and the whole darn thing literally becomes a mirrorless SLR. Super handy when paralax is an issue. Like if you are shooting through a mirror or small window or over somebody's shoulder. I never think of that in time either. (I do use my X-Pro3 as an SLR to shoot with a macro lens a lot, though.) BTW, you can return the focusing patch to the center of the frame by tapping the joystick. I habitually double-tap it from time to time just to make sure I haven't accidentally left it in the corner of the frame.
I hope this is somewhat helpful. - Carl
Thank you so much for your details comment! I really haven’t dived deep into the options you have with the Fuji yet, so I will definitely look more I to it. Especially the “instant auto focus” option sounds like a great workaround. I think maybe I am just “spoiled” with the M6. For me it’s the most minimal and simple focusing system yet the most effective one. I would love to have the exact same system on a digital camera as well, but sadly digital Leica M bodies such as the M10 are just out of my budget sadly
Great video! Also loved the portrait of you haha that was really cool :)
Hi Karin! Thanks for including me in the video!! It's funny how when we talked about our cameras, you said maybe someday you'll also have a digital M, and here you are! Congrats again on the M10! Cheers, William
Hi William, cool to hear from you here in the comment section! It was cool running into you that day. And who would have thought that „some day“ would come sooner than expected. Take care and hopefully see you soon! :)
yoooo shout out XTOL 1:1. Great vid!
ha! Awesome intro and video concept!
Makes me think that a digital M would be the best of both worlds for you. Great comparison video.
I think so too - but since the other digital M cameras are too old, the M10 would be the only logical option. Which is a camera which is slightly out of my budget (at the moment) sadly.
your videos are so motivational. Every time i see one i have this deepIy inmense desire to go out and take some pictures haha❤🔥
This really means the world to me! :) If the videos only motivate one person to go out and shoot, I have reached my goal ✌🏻
the intro made me laught a lot hahaha, great one!
8-bit Karin! 👏😊
An interesting video especially the introduction! 👍
My favourites were the couple sitting inside the restaurant and the skateboarder ‘catching air’ on the steps.
Thanks for your comment, Kevin! Glad to hear you like the intro and. the images, it was a lot of fun to record and edit as well. :)
Well that was funny - although I disagree with the "Street Photography World" being small - it's just Berlin, that small... ;-)
If you struggle with autofocus on the X100v, here's 2 things what you can do: make the AF box larger, by activating AF (e.g. depressing the joystick) and than moving one of control wheels. For wide angle and especially within street photography, that makes the camera more accurate. Alternatively, you can choose AF zone instead of the box, and you can choose the size of the zone (or rather the number of smaller boxes) the same way as mentioned above. Bigger box / zone will be easier to move around, and it will increase the likelihood of getting it onto your point of interest. Of course, manual focus with focus peaking is also an option, but you gotta determine does it work for you yourself, given how small the focusing ring is on a X100v.
On top of all mentioned, you can play with constant focus and I would advise you to to use continuous shooting; your camera has leaf shutter; it's really quiet, so there's no chance someone will hear you. Not on a busy street.
Now I don't own any of X100 series (yet), but I do own 3 other DSLR styled Fujis, and other than the leaf shutter and OVF all Fujifilm cameras are working the same way. With its "feather shutter" I can shoot my X-H1 pretty much in a same stealthy way like you with the X100v, other than the OVF, and, of course, the size...
6:10 X100V manual focus solution - As the price of a used X100V is so high at the moment I would suggest trading it in for an X-Pro3 & manual focus lens adapters (and some vintage lenses).
I actually also thought about the idea if the X-Pro series might be the better system for me. I like the idea of a small camera with no interchangeable lenses though and I hate the crop-factor when using something like my M-mount lenses, since I enjoy wider focal lengths. Might be worth borrowing one out nonetheless.
@@KarinMajoka Tamron are meant to be bringing out an 11-20mm Fuji X-Mount lens (15.5 to 30mm Full Frame equiv.). Slap a 24mm FD lens on for 36mm equiv. TTArtizan (pardon if I got the spelling wrong) make some good wide manual focus lenses for Fuji you could try one of them they are pretty cheap.
Lol! Love NPC Karin! Nicely done. 📷
Haha, thank you 🙌🏽
That was great.
Nice to see you having so much fun with the Fuji! And we all know a video is on the horizon, talking about your favorite film recipes and how they compare to film ;-)
Thanks for your comment! :) To be honest: I am not sure about that. I don't want to jump on that Fuji fangirl/fanboy train and I feel like there is so much recipe content out there already. I don't think much on my channel will change, besides taking out a digital camera from time to time only shoots. :)
@@KarinMajoka That's very fair! I looked at it this way: you have so much experience shooting film, that your take on this whole debate would be very interesting to people. But the point you're making is very fair - and fully behind not wanting your channel to change :-)
A better focus solution for the X100v. Manual focus. Use the ovf. At the bottom you'll see the distance scale. In the focus settings, set your depth of field scale to "film format". Now you will see an extra blue line on the distance scale in your ovf so you can see the focal plane that is in focus. Now you can zone focus just like with analog lenses with the depth of field scale printed on top of the lens like the one on your m6. Hope this helps!
Determin
G E N I A L !
anxiously waited for you to grab a driver out of their car and steal their vehicle after that intro
Those parts landed in the outtakes to not have this video banned from UA-cam. ;)
@@KarinMajoka would pay to see that!
Geil!! 😅📸💪🏻
The intro might be the best ever. ha ha. I want to love the Fuji cameras, but the X100 series is the only one that I've connected with, and even that was kind of short-lived. Also, I never felt like the film simulations were actually simulations. But I was a lot happier thinking of them as cool presets. And that's so cool! You got recognized!!
Thank you Jamie, I appreciate your comment! :) I am also still undecided about the X100 series. It's a great camera and there are many things I like about it (and which probably make this camera so popular). But deep down, I still think that something like a Leica M10 would be the better choice for me, since I miss a "real" rangefinder and the zone focusing style of my M6. I guess people view the simulations differently. Since I hate (!) editing images, I simply stick to them and I treat them like film scans, where I only look into the RAW file when something does not work for me.
Klasse Video, hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Hätte wirklich nicht gedacht, dass mir die digitalen Bilder im Direktvergleich so gut gefallen. Denke es wäre mir wirklich schwer gefallen zu erraten welches analog oder digital ist. 👍
Vielen Dank für den Kommentar Sebi! :) ich bin auch echt recht positiv überrascht über die Fuji jpegs!
Good thing you call it observations. It was exciting.
I'm a Fuji shooter, but I watch more film stuff on youtube than digital. I think shooting Fuji exists somewhere between the experience you get with a modern Canon or Sony, and a 35mm film camera. it's a satisfying system to shoot.
I like the inexpensive manual glass out of China, the Meike 28mm 2.8 pancake and X-T30 is my favorite pair.
Same for me, shoot digital fuji for over a decade now, but only watch film youtubers lol
Yes, I think Fuji made a really good job including some of the manual qualities of film cameras in their system. :)
❤ This channel!
Thank you, I appreciate it!
You prove Germans do have humour. Myth busted🤣. I really like your video's it's really helpful as a beginner. I was considering the X-Pro3 and the X100V for a while and ended up with a Voigtlander Bessa R3A. Both Fujifilm camera's didn't give me the full rangefinder experience I was looking for. I do understand your love for your M6.
The Bessa is a really great option! So I hope you enjoy it so far! :)
Your long familiarity with the m6 (you noted muscle memory in your focusing process) would also be a factor in the relative scoring, wouldn’t it?
Fun video. Nice images. Interesting “side quest.”
Yes for sure! Of course I am biased. But I have to say: I got the Fuji in late summer / early autumn last year so at the point of making the video I already shot with it for approx. half a year. :)
Oh wow, never could imagine how is it to shoot in 1600 iso, it should be always 1/1000 and around 8 aperture?
UPD: ah, now I see:)
I use zone focusing, so that are pretty much the settings I would shoot anyways :) but a cloudy day in Germany can become rather dark quickly, so even with ISO 1600 I sometimes had to open up to F5.6 with 1/250
What a shoot-out. Starting with a funny surprise and ending with a not less surprising fact. And in between a philosophical outcome of the kinda challenge. Like it!
Thanks so much for your comment, I am glad you enjoyed the video! :)
Thanks! I recognized a lot. Except for subject interest and EVF. With my MP, I mostly use zone framing up to 50mm. Just like you, I feel the position for close, medium, far. I distrust the autofocus of my OM 1, It often thinks it knows better. I'll try to find out if my subject interest is different with the two. The EVF is only used for awkward positions. It doesn't feel natural. Also thanks for showing me a bit of Berlin again. I will visit again soon, because there is now a daily night train (strange combination in English and German) from where I live in photogenic Suisse.
Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it! Oh yeah, I know that feeling of having trust issues with your camera haha. I am a bit of a a control freak and like to be in control of my settings 100% of the time. That way it’s only me and not the camera to blame if an image does not work out
I don't have an xv100 but an xpro 3. One of the tricks I do is pretend I'm looking off at another direction or at something else while my camera is at my side or near my waist then take the shot with the camera already pre aimed at the level and angle I wish. I can feel the AF lock on and stop before the shutter goes, which I can also feel. Or if I'm manually shooting, I can just feel the shutter actuate. It's a lot of fun to pretend you're not even noticing the subjects and people are more likely to look at the person than what's in their hands if it's not out front and obvious if they do look your way.
Great video and looks like a lot of fun!
That's an interesting approach I noticed myself using with the X100V as well! Very incognito and unobtrusive for sure. Thanks for your comment! :)
I also jump like that when picking out a camera!
😂🤍
If u want a crazy different experience try the ricoh. Some people don’t even look at the camera they just shoot immediately lol.
I actually tried one a while ago and really liked it! It was in the closer selection when I was looking at digital cameras
I think the Leica M6 titanium deserves at least another bonus point for looking so damn sexy 👀
Oh yeaaaah, that’s true 🤍📷
Top intro. Superb final! 😮 Hope to see you shooting once in Madrid!
Thank you so much, I appreciate it! I've never been to Madrid before, but hopefully I will make it there one day. :)
Great video, as usual. Your ability to be open to understanding how gear can affect your style / subject matter and composition is really an excellent point. Funny, my first digital was a D700 which I used for about 10 years before some hand issues caused me to switch to an XPro-3. Even with the digital switch I was still shooting very slowly. Once went to Paris for 3 weeks and shot less than 200 images for the full trip even though I was walking daily about 7 to 9 hours. Added an M6 TTL to the toolbox last Summer and still shoot slowly. With digital, I just didn’t want to process thousands of images..like Wedding photographers typically do…😊. I agree with you that with digital, I tend to shoot more layered/ experimental images where as with film, it’s one or two at a scene and I’m done. I’d live it if you could do a video on zone focusing..I know there are many out there but my thick brain can’t seem to ‘get it’..perhaps with your style, I might learn to zone focus and infinity focus in order to improve my ‘hit rate. Keep making these great videos! All the best from Washington State, not the DC😊 17:36
Thanks for your comment! Wow, that is so interesting that you stick to a more or less analog shooting style with your xpro. I wonder how big your “success rate” with these shots were, how many of the 200 images did you keep? On a three week trip I would probably shoot a roll a day anyway so still not that little haha
@@KarinMajoka I'd say true "keepers" meaning something I'd want to print or put in a book were about 25 to maybe 30. As you mentioned, digital gives you more immediate feedback, especially if you are experimenting with light effects. I'm lucky because a lot of what I shot is not moving, but in a changing light environment so I feel like I have a bit more time to get the shot I want (@myphotographysofar). I'm still struggling to learn zone focusing on my M6 so I often chicken out and just grab the xpro3 to get fast focus for much of my street shots. Really admire your channel. I took German in school for 3 years...there is no way I could walk and talk in another language will showing people wonderful photography skills like you do! 😀
That intro and theme going on through the video is really nice. Nice to see the differences in usage between both cameras. I noticed the same you said about framing with de Fuji being sloppier.
Do you use a Jobo or an other machine? otherwise using a 1+1 solution not very economical
How was your photowalk in Berlin? Was it a success and will there be a follow up?
Last video you spoke about camera trades/swaps. You you tell me something more about this? 🙈 How do you get into this?
Thank you Uwe, I appreciate it!
I develop everything my hand without a machine. The 1+1 dilution gives me exactly the results I want. And since XTOL is not really expensive and since it takes me some time to work my way through the 5L kit, I will most likely stick to it. :)
The photowalk in Berlin was awesome! We were quite a lot of people actually. I am planning a photowalk in Katowice, Poland for the end of the month actually.
Regarding camera trades: It was all arranged privately through eBay marketplace or Facebook groups.
@@KarinMajoka aha, yeah, I'm a bit stuck in my mind with mainly shooting 120 and buying 1L packages. Then 1+1 is only enough for 4 rolls. In 1+3 times of ID-11 and XT-3 are getting too long, i love Ilfosol 3 for HP5+.
Hmm I am already quite full till July, so a WE to Poland doesn't fit in the schedule unfortunately. I hope that will become a big success too, so you organise a third one 😉
Congratulations on the X100V, it is being very difficult to find one here in the USA. Mine just shipped today after almost a month of placing a back order in a retail store.
I got mine in late summer / early autumn last year. But I also had to wait a couple of months to finally get one!
@@KarinMajoka yea, this was the hardest camera to get brand new since I started with photography like 15 years ago. I received mine yesterday 😍
I get anxious enough about the battery life on my Fuji camera when shooting, don't think I could handle the limited shots with a film camera 😆
Really? Wow! How much do you shoot and how to you handle all that data? 😱
@@KarinMajoka Maybe I am too trigger happy, but a battery will last me about 6 hours with a 64GB sd card. I'm just shooting jpegs at the moment which helps on storage cost
I've only shot film a couple of times and all the points you make on the X100 side of your chart are basically the reasons for it. The X100 series is great but if you prefer zone focus maybe take a look at the X-E4 and a Voigtlander 23mm. No OVF on that combo though.
Thanks for your comment and great suggestion! I really love to have an OVF which is which this combo was out of the game rather quickly for me though
@@KarinMajoka Totally get that. I have the X100F still despite me planning to sell it so many times. It's just such a perfect package of a camera.
Oder wie Loriot sagen würde: Ein Leben ohne X100 ist möglich aber sinnlos. ;)
@@noenken den Satz sollte man auf t-shirts drucken, herrlich 😂👌🏼👌🏼
Richté jut!
Das Intro ist großartig! 😅 Ebenso das überraschende Ende! 👍
Danke ☺️🙏
Tolles Video! 👍🏾
Vielen Dank!
So as far as I know the only way to really do zone focus on the x100v is to put the distance scale on the screen/vf and have to set it there each time you want to change it, which can be quick but not as fast as having it on the lens
I actually tried it and did not like it at all, since you have the distant point but no real zone or range as with the distance scale on a manual lens. Did not really work for me sadly!
@@KarinMajoka hmm... Mine has the point, and then a little blue area around it that grows or shrinks to denote range with changes in the aperture or focus
I also use the distance scale when manually focusing. It’s not perfect and can accidentally be changed if you touch the focus ring, but overall it does the trick for me. Depending on the light I can ofter set it at f8 or f11 and most things are in the range of focus. Makes it easier to concentrate on composition and exposure. (For me, at least.)
what a fun and unexpected opener Karin
Thank you! :)
Loved the intro and theme of this video
Thank you, I appreciate your comment! :)
very good video! loved it!
Thank you, I appreciate it. :)
awesome vid
Thanks! ✌🏻
Great video, the best camera is the one that doesn't get in the way of your vision and allows you to get what you want at the "decisive moment".
Word! Could not have put it better!
Very interesting comparison. I had a Fuji X100S but quickly sold it as it felt too light when compared to M3 which feels fantastic to pick up and use. I now shoot a Fuji X-E1 which has a nice weight with a retro lens attached.
When I saw your shooting frequency comparison I thought of my Olympus Pen D3 half frame camera. If you load in a dark bag you can get 80 shots per roll which moves it into the digital advantage space of not holding back. Also, the manual focus has 3 zone indents, similar to your own zone method.
I actually wanted to buy an X100S or X100T instead of the V. But the prices are so crazy right now that it did not make much sense. But it’s really interesting, I love my M6, but the slightly smaller package and lighter weight really resonates with me. I have not shot a half frame camera yet, but that sounds about right! :)
You have good images. Please don't display them on a moving background. It's distracting. Let the images stand on their own.
And of course you get more "trigger-happy" when using a digital camera, because it costs you NOTHING to
" press the trigger".
I'm sorry, but comparing a film-rangefinder to a digital camera is just...
Well, ridiculous.
Why? The shooting style differs, which is worth observing.
@@KarinMajoka Of course it is different. Every time you release the shutter on a film-camera, money goes out of your bank-account. So you better make damn sure it's a good shot!
A digital camera, with a 126GB memory-card, and autofocus, you can have it in your hand, below hip level, and just shoot continously.
I have riot pictures where you can literally read the serial number of the police-officers gun, shot from below waist-level.
Imagine doing that with a 35mm film-camera?
You are comparing oranges and apples.
@@hansemannluchter643 I don't see your problem. It wasn't necessarily about comparing the technology, but about the differences in shooting style. It's all about the purely subjective experience. But your opinion is welcome too, no offense.
Actually, the "comparing oranges and apples" is rather fitting, since it might be true. But in this video I am not saying "oranges are better than apples". But I am focusing on things both fruit have, but that differ and are worth noting. E.g. texture of the peel, sourness of the juice, method of eating etc. (metaphorically speaking). So there might be people who prefer one over another and that is totally fair - but that's not the point. It still makes sense to compare certain specific elements, since it's not about the fruit itself about about differences of isolated elements. Damn, now I want to eat an orange.
@@KarinMajoka Butt.. You are STILL comparing oranges and apples!
I grew up with Nikon F and F2.
I have both, in working order, in my collection. Do I use them?
Absolutely NOT.
I'm not a millionaire.