Finally, a video that short sweet and to the point! I didn't think there was anybody that didn't just live to hear themselves talk. Thank you, it descriptive but not to time consuming!
Strange phenomenon; I’ve had several hundred pallets (unwanted) to deal with, and the ones close to my building rotted to nothing; like, full rot to where I used a shovel. Some of the same exact pallets in a well-lit sunny open area in the back away from the building are almost petrified gray with no rot at all. Intriguing. I’m planning to put my 8’ hickory 2” slabs near that pile. 120 lbs each, I probably won’t flip them often though… :-) thank you for the video and ideas. Jason
Everything is great her. I would just mention that the probe style moisture checkers only check down a half inch or so. Maybe a tad more. With any slabs that are 3 inches you may want the other style
Thank you so much! I have been clearing out a few trees & then it hit...why don’t I try to save the wood for some projects! I’ve just been stacking them for firewood but it’s starting to really pile up on me. Very helpful!
That mildew is coming from your stickers. Those look like home depot Whitewood? Which is wet and resinous. The stickers should be kiln dried first. Framing fir 2x4's below 20%mc works well in my experience. Just avoid the knotty or sticky (resinous) boards.
When using the moisture meter, isn't it just measuring 1/4 inch deep or so? How do you determine when the center of the slab is dry enough to work with?
one method that will depend on the type of moisture meter is to attach wires to the spikes and on the other end have the wires on nails or screws , screwed into the wood at the same distance apart as the spikes on the meter. if the screws go in an inch or so it will measure deeper. I've seen this method used on what i assume was an expensive meter that was probably designed for using wires, however it may work with a regular type.
This is a space constrained idea, but to flip all the boards and even out warping you could take the top board, flip it over and place it next to the pile you have on supports, and do the same with the rest of the boards. This would eliminate the step of moving them all outside and putting them back flipped
Apricot slabs... 2" by 12" . Do you think oven method would work? They are a year old outside in 12" rounds. I cut them 2" thick and are cracking, immediately. Need advice. Thank you
If you are doing cookies cracking can be a real issue. The large endgrain area can allow the moisture to leave leave very quickly which can cause cracking. I would seal the top and bottom with either arbor seal amzn.to/3ytVlfZ like that one or a resin. This will force drying to happen from the edge which will minimize cracking on my experience.
Hi I've literally just researched tonns of stuff on air drying live edge slabs as I bought two beech live edge slabs 2 weeks ago, ones very flat and the others slightly warped, no idea when tree was felled however they're damp just to the touch and the warped one has black mould on it on one side (not gone through yet) I've used white vinegar on it to kill it at the root. I've got a compact de humidifier for drying aiding with the drying out process as well as a fan I already had, keeping them both going overnight with my wood stacked properly with lots of weight on top to hopefully push the ends of the one slab down and push it back flat again, anyway I digress, should I keep fan and DH on as much as possible not just on a night? I'm mindful of electricity bills haha. any pointers / tips would be useful thanks? Also I've not sealed the ends as I didn't think it would dry out quick enough to cause any Halm. It's in my dining room out the way, radiator is at the other side of the room.
The end sealing makes a difference, but in my experience any cracking on the end can just be trimmed off or filled with a clear resin. I would definitely leave the fan and the dehumidifier on 24 hours a day at least until it’s not damp to the touch. Even at that point it will still have a ways to go. I think that answers everything you asked, but let me know if I missed anything.
Hi mate great video really appreciate, question I run a oak beam , fireplace business I have lots of stock that I’m trying to dry I have a big barn with lots of wood inside I see that you didn’t have the garage isolated that well or maybe I’m wrong ? My barn is around 32 foot long 17ft wide 10ft high if I had two big industrial dehumidifiers you think this would work ? Average size is 8x4 x 8ft long most probably 300 in total Or you think I would be better to make a smaller room that’s well insulated Some of the big dehumidifiers say they can take 50 litres a day not sure how true that is Any advice would me much appreciated
Brilliant video. I was wondering, when you have the timber drying in the garage and the spare room, do you have an additional heater along side the de-humidifier? If so what temperature do you have the rooms?
those moisture meters, how deep need they to be pressed in the wood to be sure they are dry enough? there's no way to get to the core of the wood, so how to be sure?
For the type shown you just press it in as well as you can, it's not perfect but it is accurate enough and I have never had bad finished results. That being said we have switched to a contact-less model which is much more accurate in my opinion. The link to the one I use is : amzn.to/2wQSVvT
@@MakersWorkshopLLC thanks for the info buddy. It's the first time in my life i could get a huge amount of frensh oak for a bargain, but it needs to dry before use. So... Hope it works 😁👍
It does not. The rain will be more of a surface coating that will then dry out with just a day or two of sun. That being said, I would always recommend using some type of finish on outdoor projects to prevent rot and weathering.
I mix wood types all the time and haven’t had any issues, I do use dry wood as the stickers though. A purist will tell you that you should use the same of of wood that has already been dried.
I needed to put a clip in reverse in editing to make it make sense. That was the only downside but I figured I’d keep it in to make us look magically you know you know
Anyone else wanna learn the trick at minute 1 of this video? He defies the law of gravity! Watched it in slow motion because I thought it was like a reverse video of a drop or something... maybe a string? Or magic powers?
@@MakersWorkshopLLC I have about 6,000 board feet of black walnut I had milled. . . Sold 5,000. The remainder I wanna use for fun. Some planks are 40" wide, 3" thick and 14' long... pretty stuff.
So I'm new to wood making. I make irish Blackthorn walking sticks. I leave my sticks in a garage that's left open to air dry. The average circumference is between 1 and 2 inches. To make them dry faster would you recommend the dehumidifier and fan method? How long would it take sticks of this diameter to dry to about 12%? Is it possible to get to about 9 % with your method? Thank you in advance.
For sticks of that size to bring them to 12% probably 4-6 weeks. The bulk of the moisture will expel pretty quickly. You could get them down to 9% with this method, it would probably take an additional 4-6 weeks to get there maybe a touch longer. I would air dry for a week before closing the garage to avoid mold build up. Hope this helps.
Also, if you don’t use the bark in the final walking stick if you remove the bark first it will dry quicker. Seal the ends with arbor seal or old latex paint to avoid and minimize cracking at the ends.
I have no luck at all drying oak this fast. It checks and cracks like crazy (not from the ends since I use Anchorseal). Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Hackberry and sweetgum seem to do fine with quick drying though.
So since it is not from the ends, I assume you mean it is splitting? if you have an image we're happy to check it out and troubleshoot to the best of our ability. Do you have instagram? either DM us or tag an image @makersworkshopllc and we can check it out.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC Thank you! I will DM you with an image or two tomorrow. Until I watched your video, I was assuming oak simply cannot be dried this fast unless it is at high temperature and fairly high humidity (like in a kiln). If I let the air get under about 75% RH, it splits. And that starts running the risk of mold. Tried to look up kiln schedules but they're too complicated for me to follow...
As low as you can. For residential units I believe that’s 30. If you don’t have it with a drain hose check it often, in the beginning mine fills up twice a day once it gets going it’s still a daily empty.
So I got two cookies, approx 35" x 3" and I set them up outside next to an area that blows HEAT like crazy. IT's got AIR between EACH piece and THEN a Black plastic cover to not only gather MORE heat but to keep them dry.
I live in western North Carolina where humidity isn't that bad. What is your take on drying outside under a carport where it gets continuous air flow or inside a shop that isn't climate controlled but away from weather?
Hey Just started milling this year -first with a Granburg/chainsaw and now with a O27 frontier mill.... Thanks for the info... Literally started staking some wood yesterday and forgot the "entire length and exactly same spot or the stickers " part.. ....so Thanks for that :) .....What do you do with the really small pieces? I wanna use every last bit and not waste ( other then the wood stove of course ...lol) .....
@@CanadianGoldMining These cannot be any significant size of tree though??Cedar hedges are not something i would mill...Can you name me a spot in Kelowna where there are cedars of significant size ??
I have a metal shed in my backyard- zero air flow, going to be hot this summer- i wonder if the wood will dry faster in there (using your method) or if i should allow some airflow thru there ...airflow will cool the temp down but the air will be going thru- i wonder if its better to leave it super hot with no airflow, or allow air flow but cooler temp....also, what type of saw did you use to cut those slabs? and do you use a drum sander to sand?
The less air exchange the better, as long as you are able to keep the air circulating within the shed using fans, if the air isn’t circulating through the stacks then you will have a mold issue. But if new air is t being introduced the dehumidifiers will dry the boards out a lot faster.
We used a woodmiser bandsaw mill, their are other options for brands though. I only personally have experience with bandsaw mills and find them easy and reliable. I have a supermax drum sander that I use if the slabs are to wide to put through the planer. These steps I do after the drying bc of the inevitable warping that may occur during drying.
I save a heavy duty extra large plastic garbage partially filled with coarse shavings from my planner from wood that is already dried-8 to 10% moisture. I put the cookies in the bag and wire-tie the top as air tight as possible. After about a week, open the bag and you will find the cookies coated with clumps on moist wood shavings. Brush off the moist shavings and stir\spread and reseal. Keep bag in a warm place if possible. Cookies are notorious for splitting but I find this method reduces amount. Drying time depends of course thickness. Enjoy.
Would you use the polymer over Plywood AND OSB. I would think it would be fine if you consider the floor area is only 5' wide and 9 ' deep in a walkway area of a bathroom that has engineered trusses every 16". Not much flex whats you thoughts of not putting Hardiebacker board down
I have two ways that I deal with any potential bugs and ants. Option 1) if you can heat the room as hot as possible (80-100 degrees) for a few hours that should make any bugs leave. Option 2) if it’s an out building, like a garage that you have it in then you can set off some bug foggers in the garage to take care of any bugs as well.
The hotter the faster it will dry, but the more important factors are good airflow and the dehumidifiers. The temperature will impact it less than those factors will, it just might take a little longer.
I do this with pretty fresh cut lumber. The batch in the video was taken down about a month before milling but the oak was taken down the same day. I would recommend leaving the door open and air drying for about 4 weeks before closing to minimize mold if it’s very fresh cut before going to the dehumidifiers. Either that or leave the light on, mold grows in damp and dark areas. I have had success with both methods.
And it will work with all wood types and species as far as I know. I have personally done oak, walnut, hickory, maple, and elm. Some species dry faster than others but the process is the same.
The reason you had mold on that board with sticker is because the stickers need to be dried before you use them and the same type wood as your stacking
Got our first small mill. Stacking our wood under cover but do you know how to prevent bug damage in straight air dry lumber? Thanks for your help! It's up of the ground, stickered every 16", and covered by a hoop style covering.
Wood shrinks as it loses moisture so if you build something from lumber as it dries it will warp, crack and so on. Freshly cut wood has a lot of moisture and you want to get it down to 6% moisture for indoor usage, 12% for outdoor usage. We usually split the difference and go to at least 9% for everything.
Buddy had me put a plastic barrier on floor then restack my slabs....Kind of helped with the mold...But hey, lots of heat, big fan, cover with plastic, month later im pouring epoxy....Not a problem
For our particular wood we tend to bug bomb the room. We’re comfortable with that solution, but didn’t include it in the video because we knew not everyone would be. Another alternative is getting the room temperatureup for a day or two to get the bugs to leave on their own, and then level the temp out again. Above 85 degrees should do it, the hotter the better. Our go to is using our detached garage, and bug bombing but it’s a personal preference thing.
That's one of my questions too. I don't mind getting an additional fan and a dehumidifier. But I would like to know how much this would add to the expense to dry your own vs buying it kilned dry and ready to do. Especially for those folks that may not have a lot of extra space. For me I had a neighbor lose a large arm of a tree. It was pretty thick around. I was able to grab some pieces as it looked nice and healthy. Turns out it is Northern Red Oak. I have a huge bandsaw I bought used and have not used yet and felt what a great chance to grab that downed tree branch and test the drying out. The recent storm that came through on the East took down the rest of that same tree. I did not pick up more free wood because I did not know where to put it. ;-) I figured let me try this out for no. Curious about an electric bill at this point.
Did I just see you manipulate time space at 59 seconds into the video? Holy shit... you're a wizard.!! what are you doing working with wood?! YOU MAKING WANDS?!?! lol Come on y'all... tell me that isn't weird as shit. Look at 59 seconds into it
At the 1 minute mark what heck are my eyes looking at. I watched it 20 times and can’t figure it out. The sticker board starts on the ground and goes up to his hand?!?!?!
How do you keep your dehumidifier running mine goes down to 30% shut off also the box gets up to 102° if that’s affecting it I can’t find a dehumidifier they will run constantly
Finally, a video that short sweet and to the point! I didn't think there was anybody that didn't just live to hear themselves talk. Thank you, it descriptive but not to time consuming!
Am I the only one who seen that magic when he dropped the spacer at 1 minute? 🤯
What the heck was that sorcery.
Omg that’s mental 😮
Read this comment as it happened. Not sure what that was but pretty cool… some kind of gravity warp/shift.
lol he forgot to record putting them on, so he put the footage of him taking them off in reverse... guess he dropped one in the process.
Wow. Idk how I didn't think of that 😂
Definitely looked like magic lol
Strange phenomenon; I’ve had several hundred pallets (unwanted) to deal with, and the ones close to my building rotted to nothing; like, full rot to where I used a shovel. Some of the same exact pallets in a well-lit sunny open area in the back away from the building are almost petrified gray with no rot at all. Intriguing. I’m planning to put my 8’ hickory 2” slabs near that pile. 120 lbs each, I probably won’t flip them often though… :-) thank you for the video and ideas. Jason
Brand new to this.Your video easy to follow helps alot Thank you
Everything is great her. I would just mention that the probe style moisture checkers only check down a half inch or so. Maybe a tad more. With any slabs that are 3 inches you may want the other style
Are we going to just ignore how this man defied gravity 0:58 to 1:01
How the heck!! I think we are witnessing Jesus Christ the wood worker
Thank you so much! I have been clearing out a few trees & then it hit...why don’t I try to save the wood for some projects!
I’ve just been stacking them for firewood but it’s starting to really pile up on me.
Very helpful!
Glad we could help!
I really appreciate that so much of your house is full of lumber. Awesome tips!
Great video, though you need to specify if the degrees are in Fahrenheit or Celsius. 150 What?
What happened to that board at 1:02? Magic?
Magic.
Actually, I just reversed the clip hehe
That mildew is coming from your stickers. Those look like home depot Whitewood? Which is wet and resinous. The stickers should be kiln dried first. Framing fir 2x4's below 20%mc works well in my experience. Just avoid the knotty or sticky (resinous) boards.
When using the moisture meter, isn't it just measuring 1/4 inch deep or so? How do you determine when the center of the slab is dry enough to work with?
one method that will depend on the type of moisture meter is to attach wires to the spikes and on the other end have the wires on nails or screws , screwed into the wood at the same distance apart as the spikes on the meter. if the screws go in an inch or so it will measure deeper. I've seen this method used on what i assume was an expensive meter that was probably designed for using wires, however it may work with a regular type.
0:58 hate when those fails in the matrix happen without any advice...
Attic + fan (no dehumidifier, but I have a digital temp/humidity meter up there)
Great information, I surely needed it
This is a space constrained idea, but to flip all the boards and even out warping you could take the top board, flip it over and place it next to the pile you have on supports, and do the same with the rest of the boards. This would eliminate the step of moving them all outside and putting them back flipped
That would definitely work, I just tend to fill every available space with more stacks.
Apricot slabs... 2" by 12" . Do you think oven method would work? They are a year old outside in 12" rounds. I cut them 2" thick and are cracking, immediately. Need advice. Thank you
If you are doing cookies cracking can be a real issue. The large endgrain area can allow the moisture to leave leave very quickly which can cause cracking. I would seal the top and bottom with either arbor seal amzn.to/3ytVlfZ like that one or a resin. This will force drying to happen from the edge which will minimize cracking on my experience.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC hell yes, good advice. I will try sealers on edge and face. Thank you brother! Cheers.
0:59 what kind of Jedi force movement magic is happening here?
Hi I've literally just researched tonns of stuff on air drying live edge slabs as I bought two beech live edge slabs 2 weeks ago, ones very flat and the others slightly warped, no idea when tree was felled however they're damp just to the touch and the warped one has black mould on it on one side (not gone through yet) I've used white vinegar on it to kill it at the root. I've got a compact de humidifier for drying aiding with the drying out process as well as a fan I already had, keeping them both going overnight with my wood stacked properly with lots of weight on top to hopefully push the ends of the one slab down and push it back flat again, anyway I digress, should I keep fan and DH on as much as possible not just on a night? I'm mindful of electricity bills haha. any pointers / tips would be useful thanks? Also I've not sealed the ends as I didn't think it would dry out quick enough to cause any Halm. It's in my dining room out the way, radiator is at the other side of the room.
The end sealing makes a difference, but in my experience any cracking on the end can just be trimmed off or filled with a clear resin.
I would definitely leave the fan and the dehumidifier on 24 hours a day at least until it’s not damp to the touch. Even at that point it will still have a ways to go.
I think that answers everything you asked, but let me know if I missed anything.
Hi mate great video really appreciate,
question I run a oak beam , fireplace business I have lots of stock that I’m trying to dry
I have a big barn with lots of wood inside I see that you didn’t have the garage isolated that well or maybe I’m wrong ?
My barn is around 32 foot long 17ft wide 10ft high if I had two big industrial dehumidifiers you think this would work ?
Average size is 8x4 x 8ft long most probably 300 in total
Or you think I would be better to make a smaller room that’s well insulated
Some of the big dehumidifiers say they can take 50 litres a day not sure how true that is
Any advice would me much appreciated
1:00 what was that witch craft
Brilliant video. I was wondering, when you have the timber drying in the garage and the spare room, do you have an additional heater along side the de-humidifier? If so what temperature do you have the rooms?
@@MakersWorkshopLLC Thank you so much. I really appreciate the advice. Will be put to good use.
those moisture meters, how deep need they to be pressed in the wood to be sure they are dry enough? there's no way to get to the core of the wood, so how to be sure?
For the type shown you just press it in as well as you can, it's not perfect but it is accurate enough and I have never had bad finished results. That being said we have switched to a contact-less model which is much more accurate in my opinion. The link to the one I use is : amzn.to/2wQSVvT
@@MakersWorkshopLLC thanks for the info buddy. It's the first time in my life i could get a huge amount of frensh oak for a bargain, but it needs to dry before use. So... Hope it works 😁👍
I’m sure it will come out great, biggest tip is to just be patient.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC patience is not my biggest friend 😆. But i know i have to, if i want it to be good 😇
What about if you don’t have a inside space? Can u cure them outside under a tarp?
You can, but it is a lot slower. Figure a year per inch of thickness if you are going that route.
How much does the utopian bill cost to run those 3 fans and a humidifier? How many parcels do you need to break even with the expenses?
Could you make a recommendation on what type of humidifier to get for the setup you had in the garage?
When moving the stack; do you place the stickers in the same location as before? Does it make a difference?
When a piece of wood finished dehydrate in a few months , does it matter if it get wet again by rain ?
It does not. The rain will be more of a surface coating that will then dry out with just a day or two of sun.
That being said, I would always recommend using some type of finish on outdoor projects to prevent rot and weathering.
What setting was dehumidifier at?
Thanks for the lessons. Can you use dried western red cedar for stickers on 8/4 burr oak planks?
I mix wood types all the time and haven’t had any issues, I do use dry wood as the stickers though.
A purist will tell you that you should use the same of of wood that has already been dried.
Dudeeee, magic does exist what!!! @0:59
I needed to put a clip in reverse in editing to make it make sense. That was the only downside but I figured I’d keep it in to make us look magically you know you know
What's the wife opinion on drying lumber indoor?
My wife uses just as much of it as I do so she is good with it.
HI i store firewood in the up stars of the gurage and it gets up to 100 plus degrees their how long to dry firewood
What is going on at 0:59? Are you a jedi? :D
This isnt the answer we're looking for.
So glad I’m not the only one that caught that. I replayed it like 5 times to make sure I wasn’t trippin.
its played in reverse, very odd effect
We need answers !
Rewound 3 times as well. Wtf happened there
You double up on your stickers - it there a reason other than "I want 1" for better airflow, but I have 1/2" stickers, so I will use two"?
That is the only reason. I like 3/4” to 1” thick for airflow.
How long does it take to fully dry a piece of wood? using your design. I have freshly cut elm slabs about 2 inches thick and 3 feet long
I Also have a newly milled elm slab, isnt the risk of warping and cracking bigger when you try to speed up the drying period by fans and dehumidifyer?
Anyone else wanna learn the trick at minute 1 of this video? He defies the law of gravity! Watched it in slow motion because I thought it was like a reverse video of a drop or something... maybe a string? Or magic powers?
I saw that lol. He played it backwards st 1 minute and used the same footage at 2:16
Great pointers thanks!!
Thank you very much, that was helpful.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC I have about 6,000 board feet of black walnut I had milled. . . Sold 5,000. The remainder I wanna use for fun. Some planks are 40" wide, 3" thick and 14' long... pretty stuff.
So I'm new to wood making. I make irish Blackthorn walking sticks.
I leave my sticks in a garage that's left open to air dry. The average circumference is between 1 and 2 inches. To make them dry faster would you recommend the dehumidifier and fan method?
How long would it take sticks of this diameter to dry to about 12%? Is it possible to get to about 9 % with your method?
Thank you in advance.
For sticks of that size to bring them to 12% probably 4-6 weeks. The bulk of the moisture will expel pretty quickly. You could get them down to 9% with this method, it would probably take an additional 4-6 weeks to get there maybe a touch longer.
I would air dry for a week before closing the garage to avoid mold build up.
Hope this helps.
Also, if you don’t use the bark in the final walking stick if you remove the bark first it will dry quicker. Seal the ends with arbor seal or old latex paint to avoid and minimize cracking at the ends.
I have no luck at all drying oak this fast. It checks and cracks like crazy (not from the ends since I use Anchorseal). Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Hackberry and sweetgum seem to do fine with quick drying though.
So since it is not from the ends, I assume you mean it is splitting? if you have an image we're happy to check it out and troubleshoot to the best of our ability. Do you have instagram? either DM us or tag an image @makersworkshopllc and we can check it out.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC Thank you! I will DM you with an image or two tomorrow. Until I watched your video, I was assuming oak simply cannot be dried this fast unless it is at high temperature and fairly high humidity (like in a kiln). If I let the air get under about 75% RH, it splits. And that starts running the risk of mold. Tried to look up kiln schedules but they're too complicated for me to follow...
What humidity level do you set your dehumidifers at?
As low as you can. For residential units I believe that’s 30. If you don’t have it with a drain hose check it often, in the beginning mine fills up twice a day once it gets going it’s still a daily empty.
So I got two cookies, approx 35" x 3" and I set them up outside next to an area that blows HEAT like crazy. IT's got AIR between EACH piece and THEN a Black plastic cover to not only gather MORE heat but to keep them dry.
If you paint the ends of your boards, you will eliminate all checking.
I live in western North Carolina where humidity isn't that bad. What is your take on drying outside under a carport where it gets continuous air flow or inside a shop that isn't climate controlled but away from weather?
I want to make a handrail for my stairs out of a 3-4” round sapling. How can I dry an 8 foot long sapling/log of that diameter?
Logs take much longer than boards to dry.
Hey Just started milling this year -first with a Granburg/chainsaw and now with a O27 frontier mill.... Thanks for the info... Literally started staking some wood yesterday and forgot the "entire length and exactly same spot or the stickers " part.. ....so Thanks for that :) .....What do you do with the really small pieces? I wanna use every last bit and not waste ( other then the wood stove of course ...lol) .....
Glad we could help! What kind of wood have you been milling?
@@MakersWorkshopLLC In Kelowna BC- Ponderosa Pine, Fir, Cedar - so fun so far :)
@@CanadianGoldMining Where are you getting Cedar in Kelowna??
@@xxdragan1969 along most waterways ..even in the desert they grow along the watercourses
@@CanadianGoldMining These cannot be any significant size of tree though??Cedar hedges are not something i would mill...Can you name me a spot in Kelowna where there are cedars of significant size ??
I have a metal shed in my backyard- zero air flow, going to be hot this summer- i wonder if the wood will dry faster in there (using your method) or if i should allow some airflow thru there ...airflow will cool the temp down but the air will be going thru- i wonder if its better to leave it super hot with no airflow, or allow air flow but cooler temp....also, what type of saw did you use to cut those slabs? and do you use a drum sander to sand?
The less air exchange the better, as long as you are able to keep the air circulating within the shed using fans, if the air isn’t circulating through the stacks then you will have a mold issue. But if new air is t being introduced the dehumidifiers will dry the boards out a lot faster.
We used a woodmiser bandsaw mill, their are other options for brands though. I only personally have experience with bandsaw mills and find them easy and reliable. I have a supermax drum sander that I use if the slabs are to wide to put through the planer. These steps I do after the drying bc of the inevitable warping that may occur during drying.
To what temperature do you set your oven to dry small 1/2” thick, 5” round cookies?
I save a heavy duty extra large plastic garbage partially filled with coarse shavings from my planner from wood that is already dried-8 to 10% moisture. I put the cookies in the bag and wire-tie the top as air tight as possible. After about a week, open the bag and you will find the cookies coated with clumps on moist wood shavings. Brush off the moist shavings and stir\spread and reseal. Keep bag in a warm place if possible. Cookies are notorious for splitting but I find this method reduces amount. Drying time depends of course thickness. Enjoy.
Would you use the polymer over Plywood AND OSB. I would think it would be fine if you consider the floor area is only 5' wide and 9 ' deep in a walkway area of a bathroom that has engineered trusses every 16". Not much flex whats you thoughts of not putting Hardiebacker board down
How long do you put the wood in, at a time, in the oven?
Will any of these drying methods also make bugs leave? I have some red oak that I'm hoping to use but want to make sure pests don't turn up later.
I have two ways that I deal with any potential bugs and ants. Option 1) if you can heat the room as hot as possible (80-100 degrees) for a few hours that should make any bugs leave. Option 2) if it’s an out building, like a garage that you have it in then you can set off some bug foggers in the garage to take care of any bugs as well.
@Makers Workshop at what temperature should my garage be?
The hotter the faster it will dry, but the more important factors are good airflow and the dehumidifiers. The temperature will impact it less than those factors will, it just might take a little longer.
Can anyone explain the wizardry that is going on at exactly 1 minute?
Great advice...thanks!
Can you do this with fresh cut lumber? Does it matter if its oak or walnut?
I do this with pretty fresh cut lumber. The batch in the video was taken down about a month before milling but the oak was taken down the same day. I would recommend leaving the door open and air drying for about 4 weeks before closing to minimize mold if it’s very fresh cut before going to the dehumidifiers. Either that or leave the light on, mold grows in damp and dark areas. I have had success with both methods.
And it will work with all wood types and species as far as I know. I have personally done oak, walnut, hickory, maple, and elm. Some species dry faster than others but the process is the same.
The reason you had mold on that board with sticker is because the stickers need to be dried before you use them and the same type wood as your stacking
Got our first small mill. Stacking our wood under cover but do you know how to prevent bug damage in straight air dry lumber? Thanks for your help! It's up of the ground, stickered every 16", and covered by a hoop style covering.
Why is drying the wood necessary?
Wood shrinks as it loses moisture so if you build something from lumber as it dries it will warp, crack and so on. Freshly cut wood has a lot of moisture and you want to get it down to 6% moisture for indoor usage, 12% for outdoor usage. We usually split the difference and go to at least 9% for everything.
What just happened at 0:59??
Buddy had me put a plastic barrier on floor then restack my slabs....Kind of helped with the mold...But hey, lots of heat, big fan, cover with plastic, month later im pouring epoxy....Not a problem
2:25 Hi MW! What’s called that vinegar for mould?
Cheers mate👍
Duration of wood drying in the oven
Are you afraid that wood bugs might get inside your house by drying your wood in your house?
For our particular wood we tend to bug bomb the room. We’re comfortable with that solution, but didn’t include it in the video because we knew not everyone would be. Another alternative is getting the room temperatureup for a day or two to get the bugs to leave on their own, and then level the temp out again. Above 85 degrees should do it, the hotter the better. Our go to is using our detached garage, and bug bombing but it’s a personal preference thing.
Great video, thank you
Our pleasure. I hope it helps.
For furniture making, I tend to shoot for 8% moisture content. Is that too low?
Adrian Bräysy that’s a good average. It depends somewhat on your climate.
AZ may be closer to 6% where coastal may be 10%
How’s the power bill I’m trying to dry a black cherry slabs that I’m about mill
That's one of my questions too. I don't mind getting an additional fan and a dehumidifier. But I would like to know how much this would add to the expense to dry your own vs buying it kilned dry and ready to do. Especially for those folks that may not have a lot of extra space. For me I had a neighbor lose a large arm of a tree. It was pretty thick around. I was able to grab some pieces as it looked nice and healthy. Turns out it is Northern Red Oak. I have a huge bandsaw I bought used and have not used yet and felt what a great chance to grab that downed tree branch and test the drying out. The recent storm that came through on the East took down the rest of that same tree. I did not pick up more free wood because I did not know where to put it. ;-) I figured let me try this out for no. Curious about an electric bill at this point.
0:59 you are telekinetic
Polifurneka mantap
Its called "sticker stain" and is largely avoidable
Did I just see you manipulate time space at 59 seconds into the video? Holy shit... you're a wizard.!! what are you doing working with wood?! YOU MAKING WANDS?!?! lol
Come on y'all... tell me that isn't weird as shit. Look at 59 seconds into it
Bruh what the fuck happened at the 1:00 minute mark? Why did the wood do that?
1 × 12 pine takes 2 weeks doing this method with 3 fans and a humidifier
That moisture meter type is typically inaccurate
What the fuck happed at 1:00 😱
Jedi skills.
@@MakersWorkshopLLC im going to subscribe just for that and also for the good info.
Ok what just happened at 0:59, I swear that sticker just levitated up into your hand
Magical powers
Yes, I couldn’t even finish the video. What the hell was that, I rewound and played that back a dozen times. How did that happen????
I wonder how much all the fans increase your electric bill?
For furniture 6-8% is ideal. No way to dry lumber that fast using the methods you are suggesting
Works for me quite well, don’t know what else to tell you.
At the 1 minute mark what heck are my eyes looking at. I watched it 20 times and can’t figure it out. The sticker board starts on the ground and goes up to his hand?!?!?!
Electric bill must be high aF.
You must have a very understanding wife :D
idk why but you somewhat sound like kevin malone
Clean up your slabs, don't dry bark
Muto
Po
Koteo
How do you keep your dehumidifier running mine goes down to 30% shut off also the box gets up to 102° if that’s affecting it I can’t find a dehumidifier they will run constantly