Solid content! Almost didn't take recommendation from Sherwin Williams rep about priming dark purple walls and army green walls going to a light tan. Glad i did! Also glad i watched this before paint some wood trim with poly top coat!
I know this was a year ago and you may have changed your primers. However you should try (if you haven't) PPG speed prime for bare drywall and Zinsser Smart prime for over oil. Also Benjamin Moore can tint their primers to the color of your finish paint.
I’ll check those out. We’ve been having a lot success with Benjamin Moore’s fresh start for a variety of specialty applications. As far as tinting primers go, generally we have a certain amount of primers stocked up. We use white for lighter colors and then we’ll use grey primers for darker colors. It works for our work flow because we pretty much always do 2 top coats of finish paint.
Great video - wandering what to do with rusty nails leaking thru white paint. Should I use oil base paint? The surface is the exterior trim around my garage door. Thanks again, love your videos. Thanks
recently ran into a situation where it was a repaint over a dark color and the head painter made the mistake of top coating 4 times I think, because he didn't think to prime it twice. Of course he tried to blame it on the paint.
That does happen from time to time. The paint does make a difference in that scenario. Lower end paints do not tend to cover as well. The primer also matters. I've definitely had jobs where we primed and ended up doing 3 top coats. Not a fun time at all.
Ive had the greyish soot in rentals and have wondered what the hell it was, and i think youre correct on it being candles. Ive never thought if that and always wondered what the hell it was from.
@@SuperVassarBrothers That's right especially in the bathrooms. That black/greyish soot doesn't wipe off for anything, does some serious damage. Been racking my brain on what it could be the past 15 years, never thought it was from the candles. Thanks brother
We plan on keeping the pop corn ceiling unfortunately for now. We thought we could paint it to make it look slightly better until we could afford to have it professionally removed or covered. Just wasnt sure if we should spray it or roll it due to the asbestos. Thanks for how straightforward your videos are. 👍
Spraying has quite the learning curve if you’ve never done it before. I’d roll it and I’d use BIN shellac first then go over it with whatever ceiling paint you prefer
1. New Drywall 2. Spackle Spots 3. Raw Wood 4. Dramatic Color Change 5. Stained /Polyurethane Trim 6. Oil Based Trim 7. Wallpaper Removal 8. Water Damage Stains 9. Dark Marks such as pen marks 10. Soot Stains
Sometimes when I don’t prime a previously-painted piece of trim, it seems like the finish coats don’t look as white as I would have expected. For this reason, unless I’m feeling super-lazy, I usually go ahead and prime. Does this make sense?
You can't go wrong priming. If someone is paying you to do it, then the job would take longer and would have to allow for the extra time in the quote. If its your own DIY project, then go crazy :)
Question, how is it to a ceiling when the primer is not the same texture as the thicker primers? Would have like to have seen that process. Thanks Jeremy
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking. The texture mostly comes for type of roller you use. When you prime use the same nap roller that you use when you apply the ceiling paint. Then when you top coat it there won’t be a texture issue
Excellent video! Not sure if you still check this, but I have four windows on the side of the house in virtually constant sun through the summer. Not sure what they were painted with, but the paint at the bottom has flaked off...it's a nearly horizontal surface. The paint applied to the top and sides is in decent shape. Since there's now bare wood exposed, I presume I need to prime with an oil-based primer? Should I then use an oil-based paint for the top coat?
You can use an exterior wood primer if the wood is in good shape. If you're getting a lot of bleed through then you may have to spot prime with a on oil-based primer, but a regular (latex) primer should work fine. Then I'd would use Moorglo Soft-Gloss from Benjamin Moore. That's my go to exterior trim paint and it's a hybrid.
Question: for the stained trim, Do you have to sand it first? I noticed in the video the cabinet door had a shine to it, my trim does too but you didn’t mention anything about sanding it. Don’t know if it was an accident or if you don’t need to when applying that particular primer.. thanks in advance
I would recommend sanding stained trim before you try and prime it. You may also be interested in this video of Fresh Start primer. It's a good primer for converting trim that's easy to use: ua-cam.com/video/jydQq4jHOnE/v-deo.html
Hi, I just found your channel and really like how you explain everything . My vinyl exterior windows are looking very old and tired and I was wondering if you’d ever recommend painting them? Budget wise I can’t afford to replace them right now so any tips to make them look better will be appreciated!!!!
Thanks for watching! I’ll give it my best shot without seeing your windows in person. Vinyl can be painted. I’d give it a light sanding with 150 grit sandpaper and caulk in any gaps that you see with white paintable exterior caulk. Once that drys you can hit it with your preferred exterior paint. My current favorite is Benjamin Moore’s Moorglo soft-gloss. I hope this helps. Good luck with your windows 🫡🪟🪟🪟🪟
Great information as I do a LOT of painting for myself and family/friends. One question though...what is the best primer for crayon on bare drywall? Thanks in advance.
I'd recommend going with Zinsser Cover Stain, Zinsser BIN, or if there's not a lot of it you could go with spray Kilz. You may want to prime the whole area with a standard latex primer after you hit all of the crayon spots. Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Sounds like I need to buy some Zinsser Cover Stain just to have on hand, as well as for the crayon problem wall. Thanks for the quick reply!
I'd recommend the BIN shellac based primer from Zinsser. That gives me the most consistent results with slick surfaces. You may also want to sand the surface with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper prior to priming it. That will also help the product adhere properly. Good luck with your project!
Love your videos. Great insight. Have a 22'x28' room with 12' ceilings with soot stains on ceilings where the trusses are located, and part way down the walls from the ceiling. I cleaned all the areas. Now ready to prime. Whether i use zinsser cover stain oil or Bin shellac i am going to have to use a respirator. How much of a risk of pulling some of the primer that may get tacky, will i have as keeping a nice wet edge is going to be impossible. With Zinsser cover stain would you reccommend a 3/8" or 1/2" roller cover on a 14" roller? Shellac seems really messy to me on the ceilings because it is so thin. Also concerned about roller marks. If i use cover stain oil base Do you recommend painting the entire ceiling and all the walls even where there is no soot stain? Concerned about height of paint on walls if i dont prime it all.
I just did a video on using BIN. That's what we use for the application you're talking about. Here's a link to the new video: ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.html I hope it's helpful!
Thanks so much for your guidance on the shellac primer on the 22x28' room with 12' ceilings. All the walls and ceiling covered well with no problems,... except one wall that the homeowner remembers painting separately with a different latex egg shell paint. On that wall, I have had multiple areas from 4" x4" to 9"x3' that crackled as the shellac did not bond to the previous paint. All the walls were washed and let dry for over 24 hours the same. I will attach some pictures. I sanded those areas and tried the shellac again but I had crackling again, especially where the new shellac met the shellac at the border where it was scrapped where it bubbled up and crackled up to an inch or two into the first coat of shellac. I tried using Roman rx 999 and I had some similar results, but not in all areas. Some areas bonded well and I did some drywall mud work to level it off. Any recommendations of any other product, possibly the zinsser peel stop thin product? Also once the work is done any recommendations on a primer to use on the entire wall prior to painting the emerald latex top coat? Thanks
Jeremy, do you have recommendations what primer or finish coat you can apply to hide small holes (from bubbles)? Something like liquid filler that can fill up the those small holes and avoid having to do another skim coat. Any ideas?
By bubbles, I'm assuming you mean air bubbles in the spackle / joint compound that show up after you sand. It really depends on how many there are. We often will use the wood filler from sherwin williams between finish coats if there's not a huge amount of bubbles. We'll smear it in with our fingers then lightly sand it. It dries super quick. Then we'll spot hit it with the finish paint before we do our final coat. If there's an area with a lot of pinholes then skim coating is the way to go. Lightly sand with 220 then prime, and hit it with your finish paint. I know it's a pain in the butt, but I haven't found any better solution. A way to avoid the bubbles in the first place is to mix your spackle. A lot of guys will mix their joint compound with a drill and a mixing bit. That whips the air out of the mud, and helps prevents the bubbles / pinholes from appearing in the first place.
what do you recommend for concealing grey sanding sponge stain on recently double ;primed, double paint coated drywall ceiling (used S-W multipurpose primer and Cashmere off-white for ceiling paint)? Thnx
If the final project looks good, that's what counts. The Shellac base BIN is around $50 USD here which is more expensive than most paints. Also depends on how much of the primer you use on the job (spot painting, just ceiling, or entire room), and its only one coat regardless. Whatever works for you and for your budget :)
@@SuperVassarBrothers you have a point, its alweys a tight budget😅. I only youse regularly the latex stain block products (similar to what you have shown)
We used ultra 3 kiltz on our ceiling in spots and after painting some areas the primer is bleeding through the paint. Can see it in the light - soo what to do ? Should we primer the whole ceiling or use a darker color for the ceiling to hide the primer ?? 🤦🏼♀️
hmmm, if I were in your shoes I would BIN shellac the areas that are bleeding through. Then I'd go over those areas with 2 coats of your ceiling paint. Thats the most bomb-proof solution I can muster without seeing your ceiling for myself. Here's a video on how to use BIN. You'll likely only need a quart of it cause it goes a long way. Good luck with your project! ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.html
Question.....from what I gather PVA primer for new drywall is technically a sealer. This being the case and the fact that it's cheaper than most other primers. Can PVA primer be used to primer previously painted walls successfully prior to repainting. I ask because I have a room that is currently painted grey. I'm going to be sanding the walls as prep. I currently have about 3 gallons of PVA primer left over from a previous project, and I'd like to use it for this depending on your answer. Thank you! 😊
You can definitely use the PVA primer to prime previously painted walls. Generally the PVA primers are somewhat transparent. If you're trying to do a major color shift, like going from dark wall to light walls, then it's not the best. But if you're just trying to give the wall a clean start, then you'll be good to go.
We are looking to paint the walls in an open floor plan home which has the original white colored builder paint on the walls. Because of this I feel like the walls will soak up paint quickly. Do you recommend applying a primer first? If so, would you recommend having the primer tinted if we are going with SW Light French Gray? I priced out enough paint for two coats (approx 1500 SF), but thought it might be less expensive to prime first rather than apply two coats of SW Duration Matte.
I'd recommend doing two coats of Duration Matte. That is our go-to interior wall paint for the majority of our residential jobs. I always recommend doing two top coats of your finish paint. The Duration Matte should cover just fine in two coats, especially with a color like Light French Gray. That will give you better results then doing one coat of tinted primer and one top coat. Happy painting!
You can scuff sand if it’s super slick. You may also consider using a primer like fresh start. I’ve had a lot of success with that recently. It’s much more pleasant to work with than cover stain. If fresh start doesn’t work then I go with BIN. Here’s a video where I use fresh start if you’re interested: The Secrets to Painting Your Handrails FAST ua-cam.com/video/N61F9K9cjnA/v-deo.html
Used Sherwin Williams drywall primer with Icelandic tint on fresh drywall n came out good. Found two areas after, that needed compound. After sanding, used multi purpose primer with tint n it dried a little darker than the first drywall primer. Why? Will the finish color cover it OK? Used the multi purpose primer on another walk n it was good.
Jeremy, wondering why you left out re-painting over walls previously painted with sheens higher than eggshell? Do you simply sand or use a de-glosser? Or do you apply a bonding primer? Painting crews around me range from doing nothing to doing all three. Thanks!
I have a couple of questions. Im trying to determine a paint product from SW that is multipupose, so i dont have to buy two different types of products (Emerald, Duration, etc). What would be my best bet to paint the whole house? Is primer needed if the majority of the house has light paint walls (tan, light blue), or can I do two coats instead? I'll be using color paint Acier for the entire walls.
#7 wallpaper... as a SW guy curious you didnt mention Roman RX PRO 999. Priced similar to GARDZ. Do you think they are similar? Do you always recommend GARDZ
I haven’t used Roman RX so I don’t have an opinion on that product. More recently when the walls have been really messed up after we’ve pulled wallpaper, we’ve been using BIN shellac. That’s pretty much our bomb proof solution for quite a few situations.
Is it oke to use any type of primer for exterior hpuse painting. Can you suggest a reasonable priced primer for exterior painting. Does it have to be same brand as the paint ?
The primer doesn’t have to be the same brand as the paint. It really depends on why it is you’re priming. That really dictates what product you should go with. If you use a high quality exterior paint like Moorglo Soft-gloss or MoorGuard Low Lustre from Benjamin Moore, then a lot of times you don’t need to prime. Most of the time a decent multi-purpose exterior primer will work. Fresh Start is excellent, but there are decent exterior primers from just about every paint brand.
@SuperVassarBrothers thank you iam actually planing to buy mooegard, to do my exterior painting. But the painter said that we need to do priming before painting as our house is a brown color and we are chainging ot to a lighter color. Is it required to have primer?
I've used the Zinsser 123 on priming drywall repairs, but sometimes it flashes through after I topcoat it. Can you recommend a primer that maybe dries flat, so it doesn't flash through on the final paint coats? Thanks....
We like Drywall primer from Sherwin Williams. May have a slight sheen to it, but we don't have issues with is flashing. We do two coats over it tho. The multi purpose from Sherwin Williams is great to. More expensive, but good.
Without getting too much into the weeds, primers and top coats do two different things. Primers generally don't have much sheen to them and are not meant to provide a protective coating on the surface. They are intended to prepare the surface for a top coats. The primer's I mentioned in this video are very good for priming.
I have a can of satin-finish white paint...can I use that to cover my old wall colour? Or will it cause problems with adhesion? My new wall colour will be in a matte finish.
If you’re not doing a dramatic color change then you can go over the old paint with the new matte paint. We always do 2 coats and that almost always does the job.
Jeremy, Unfortunately, my door was oil base , the painter didn't give primer , just painted two coat latex fininsh coat. now the door paint flake off . what should i do now ? sanding the door first to get rid of latex coat? thanks .
Ugh, yeah unfortunately you’re going to have to sand off the loose paint. Then I’d suggest using an oil or shellac primer then going over that with whatever trim paint you want. You could also try a hybrid paint after you sand like Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams, Advance or Command from Benjamin Moore.
@@SuperVassarBrothersbecause shellac is probably a solvent to the material in the sharpie. But hey if it works it works, I just had a different experience.
Hmmm, I don't think I've ever painted something like that. I might just skip the primer and try Regal Moorguard Low Lustre or Moorglo Soft Gloss exterior paint from Benjamin Moore and see if that sticks. If you're having bonding issues then I'd try the High Adhesion bonding primer from Sherwin Williams. You may want to sand it before you put any product on. Good luck with your project!
Generally any interior/exterior multi-purpose primer will work. I use the one from Sherwin Williams. If you’re dealing with raw wood that has a lot of knots and potential for tannin to bleed through then you may want to use something like exterior oil-based wood primer from Sherwin Williams, but most of the time the multi-purpose latex will work just fine
No sure what you mean by “agree”. Almost all of the current paints offered today are water based. There are a few specialty products that are hybrids or are oil-based.
@@SuperVassarBrothers lol ok… nearly 47% volume solids for aura egg to 37% on emerald, not even close, and then there’s gennex tint…You should spend some more time using these products. You can argue with me all day here, but it won’t benefit you. I promise you that you’re missing out.
Good notes on priming .
Thanks for watching 🫡
The spot thing on the joists blew my mind. I always thought it only could have been sagging drywall and raking lighting.
Yeah, we're dealing with it right now on a job that has a gas fireplace insert. Not the most fun...
Great content in this video! Thank you.
Thanks Beverly!
Solid content! Almost didn't take recommendation from Sherwin Williams rep about priming dark purple walls and army green walls going to a light tan. Glad i did! Also glad i watched this before paint some wood trim with poly top coat!
Nice! I'm glad it helped!
Lots of good information, thank you for sharing!
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching 😃
I know this was a year ago and you may have changed your primers. However you should try (if you haven't) PPG speed prime for bare drywall and Zinsser Smart prime for over oil. Also Benjamin Moore can tint their primers to the color of your finish paint.
I’ll check those out. We’ve been having a lot success with Benjamin Moore’s fresh start for a variety of specialty applications. As far as tinting primers go, generally we have a certain amount of primers stocked up. We use white for lighter colors and then we’ll use grey primers for darker colors. It works for our work flow because we pretty much always do 2 top coats of finish paint.
Very good. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! I hope it was helpful!
Great video - wandering what to do with rusty nails leaking thru white paint. Should I use oil base paint? The surface is the exterior trim around my garage door. Thanks again, love your videos. Thanks
Yeah…you can use BIN shellac or Kilz for those spots then go over it with your finish paint.
You can also get PVA primer in two gallon buckets.
Yes indeed!
recently ran into a situation where it was a repaint over a dark color and the head painter made the mistake of top coating 4 times I think, because he didn't think to prime it twice. Of course he tried to blame it on the paint.
That does happen from time to time. The paint does make a difference in that scenario. Lower end paints do not tend to cover as well. The primer also matters. I've definitely had jobs where we primed and ended up doing 3 top coats. Not a fun time at all.
Ive had the greyish soot in rentals and have wondered what the hell it was, and i think youre correct on it being candles. Ive never thought if that and always wondered what the hell it was from.
We see it all the time in homes where they’re burning candles. Especially in powder rooms where they burn them a lot.
@@SuperVassarBrothers That's right especially in the bathrooms. That black/greyish soot doesn't wipe off for anything, does some serious damage. Been racking my brain on what it could be the past 15 years, never thought it was from the candles. Thanks brother
@@trollop4866 in the bathroom? in a rental? it's pot. (from smoking a joint) guaranteed.
Thank you for all the info. For the soot stains, how would you go about covering them if they are on a unpainted popcorn ceiling that has asbestos?
We plan on keeping the pop corn ceiling unfortunately for now. We thought we could paint it to make it look slightly better until we could afford to have it professionally removed or covered. Just wasnt sure if we should spray it or roll it due to the asbestos. Thanks for how straightforward your videos are. 👍
Spraying has quite the learning curve if you’ve never done it before. I’d roll it and I’d use BIN shellac first then go over it with whatever ceiling paint you prefer
1. New Drywall
2. Spackle Spots
3. Raw Wood
4. Dramatic Color Change
5. Stained /Polyurethane Trim
6. Oil Based Trim
7. Wallpaper Removal
8. Water Damage Stains
9. Dark Marks such as pen marks
10. Soot Stains
🫡
Sometimes when I don’t prime a previously-painted piece of trim, it seems like the finish coats don’t look as white as I would have expected. For this reason, unless I’m feeling super-lazy, I usually go ahead and prime. Does this make sense?
You can't go wrong priming. If someone is paying you to do it, then the job would take longer and would have to allow for the extra time in the quote. If its your own DIY project, then go crazy :)
Question, how is it to a ceiling when the primer is not the same texture as the thicker primers? Would have like to have seen that process. Thanks Jeremy
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking. The texture mostly comes for type of roller you use. When you prime use the same nap roller that you use when you apply the ceiling paint. Then when you top coat it there won’t be a texture issue
Excellent video! Not sure if you still check this, but I have four windows on the side of the house in virtually constant sun through the summer. Not sure what they were painted with, but the paint at the bottom has flaked off...it's a nearly horizontal surface. The paint applied to the top and sides is in decent shape. Since there's now bare wood exposed, I presume I need to prime with an oil-based primer? Should I then use an oil-based paint for the top coat?
You can use an exterior wood primer if the wood is in good shape. If you're getting a lot of bleed through then you may have to spot prime with a on oil-based primer, but a regular (latex) primer should work fine. Then I'd would use Moorglo Soft-Gloss from Benjamin Moore. That's my go to exterior trim paint and it's a hybrid.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Sorry for the delayed reply...been sick since Tuesday evening! Thanks so much for the response!
Don't forget the crayon...it always bleeds through. I also like BIN and STIKS from BM.
I’m experiencing more and more crayon on the walls with my 2 year old. BIN and spray Kilz work well
Question: for the stained trim, Do you have to sand it first? I noticed in the video the cabinet door had a shine to it, my trim does too but you didn’t mention anything about sanding it. Don’t know if it was an accident or if you don’t need to when applying that particular primer.. thanks in advance
I would recommend sanding stained trim before you try and prime it. You may also be interested in this video of Fresh Start primer. It's a good primer for converting trim that's easy to use: ua-cam.com/video/jydQq4jHOnE/v-deo.html
Hi, I just found your channel and really like how you explain everything . My vinyl exterior windows are looking very old and tired and I was wondering if you’d ever recommend painting them? Budget wise I can’t afford to replace them right now so any tips to make them look better will be appreciated!!!!
Thanks for watching! I’ll give it my best shot without seeing your windows in person. Vinyl can be painted. I’d give it a light sanding with 150 grit sandpaper and caulk in any gaps that you see with white paintable exterior caulk. Once that drys you can hit it with your preferred exterior paint. My current favorite is Benjamin Moore’s Moorglo soft-gloss. I hope this helps. Good luck with your windows 🫡🪟🪟🪟🪟
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks so much!!! I’m gonna give it a try!!!
I just had my home skim coated smooth over the existing textured walls, do I use the same type of primer as fresh drywall?
That is what I would use. You can use a drywall primer, PVA, or a multipurpose. Pretty much any latex based primer would work.
Great information as I do a LOT of painting for myself and family/friends. One question though...what is the best primer for crayon on bare drywall? Thanks in advance.
I'd recommend going with Zinsser Cover Stain, Zinsser BIN, or if there's not a lot of it you could go with spray Kilz. You may want to prime the whole area with a standard latex primer after you hit all of the crayon spots.
Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Sounds like I need to buy some Zinsser Cover Stain just to have on hand, as well as for the crayon problem wall. Thanks for the quick reply!
Great video what do you use as a bonding primer when trying to paint a very slick surface?
I'd recommend the BIN shellac based primer from Zinsser. That gives me the most consistent results with slick surfaces. You may also want to sand the surface with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper prior to priming it. That will also help the product adhere properly. Good luck with your project!
XIM UMA for slick surfaces.
Love your videos. Great insight. Have a 22'x28' room with 12' ceilings with soot stains on ceilings where the trusses are located, and part way down the walls from the ceiling. I cleaned all the areas. Now ready to prime. Whether i use zinsser cover stain oil or Bin shellac i am going to have to use a respirator. How much of a risk of pulling some of the primer that may get tacky, will i have as keeping a nice wet edge is going to be impossible. With Zinsser cover stain would you reccommend a 3/8" or 1/2" roller cover on a 14" roller? Shellac seems really messy to me on the ceilings because it is so thin. Also concerned about roller marks. If i use cover stain oil base Do you recommend painting the entire ceiling and all the walls even where there is no soot stain? Concerned about height of paint on walls if i dont prime it all.
I just did a video on using BIN. That's what we use for the application you're talking about. Here's a link to the new video:
ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.html
I hope it's helpful!
Thanks so much for your guidance on the shellac primer on the 22x28' room with 12' ceilings. All the walls and ceiling covered well with no problems,... except one wall that the homeowner remembers painting separately with a different latex egg shell paint. On that wall, I have had multiple areas from 4" x4" to 9"x3' that crackled as the shellac did not bond to the previous paint. All the walls were washed and let dry for over 24 hours the same. I will attach some pictures. I sanded those areas and tried the shellac again but I had crackling again, especially where the new shellac met the shellac at the border where it was scrapped where it bubbled up and crackled up to an inch or two into the first coat of shellac. I tried using Roman rx 999 and I had some similar results, but not in all areas. Some areas bonded well and I did some drywall mud work to level it off. Any recommendations of any other product, possibly the zinsser peel stop thin product? Also once the work is done any recommendations on a primer to use on the entire wall prior to painting the emerald latex top coat? Thanks
Jeremy, do you have recommendations what primer or finish coat you can apply to hide small holes (from bubbles)? Something like liquid filler that can fill up the those small holes and avoid having to do another skim coat. Any ideas?
By bubbles, I'm assuming you mean air bubbles in the spackle / joint compound that show up after you sand. It really depends on how many there are. We often will use the wood filler from sherwin williams between finish coats if there's not a huge amount of bubbles. We'll smear it in with our fingers then lightly sand it. It dries super quick. Then we'll spot hit it with the finish paint before we do our final coat. If there's an area with a lot of pinholes then skim coating is the way to go. Lightly sand with 220 then prime, and hit it with your finish paint. I know it's a pain in the butt, but I haven't found any better solution. A way to avoid the bubbles in the first place is to mix your spackle. A lot of guys will mix their joint compound with a drill and a mixing bit. That whips the air out of the mud, and helps prevents the bubbles / pinholes from appearing in the first place.
what do you recommend for concealing grey sanding sponge stain on recently double ;primed, double paint coated drywall ceiling (used S-W multipurpose primer and Cashmere off-white for ceiling paint)? Thnx
If it’s been painted recently then I’d clean the area, then prime and paint it with your finish paint.
Would you prime the brand new siding prior pain. I was going to do two coats of paint but not sure if I should prime the exterior first? Thank you.
If it’s vinyl siding then I wouldn’t prime. I’d use MoorGuard Low Lustre from Benjamin Moore and let it rip.
Hire in Europe i have zinzer, but it's more expensive then the paint. Whe most use the transparent primer thet whr delute with wather(3:1)
If the final project looks good, that's what counts. The Shellac base BIN is around $50 USD here which is more expensive than most paints. Also depends on how much of the primer you use on the job (spot painting, just ceiling, or entire room), and its only one coat regardless. Whatever works for you and for your budget :)
@@SuperVassarBrothers you have a point, its alweys a tight budget😅.
I only youse regularly the latex stain block products (similar to what you have shown)
We used ultra 3 kiltz on our ceiling in spots and after painting some areas the primer is bleeding through the paint. Can see it in the light - soo what to do ? Should we primer the whole ceiling or use a darker color for the ceiling to hide the primer ?? 🤦🏼♀️
hmmm, if I were in your shoes I would BIN shellac the areas that are bleeding through. Then I'd go over those areas with 2 coats of your ceiling paint. Thats the most bomb-proof solution I can muster without seeing your ceiling for myself. Here's a video on how to use BIN. You'll likely only need a quart of it cause it goes a long way. Good luck with your project!
ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.html
Question.....from what I gather PVA primer for new drywall is technically a sealer. This being the case and the fact that it's cheaper than most other primers. Can PVA primer be used to primer previously painted walls successfully prior to repainting. I ask because I have a room that is currently painted grey. I'm going to be sanding the walls as prep. I currently have about 3 gallons of PVA primer left over from a previous project, and I'd like to use it for this depending on your answer. Thank you! 😊
You can definitely use the PVA primer to prime previously painted walls. Generally the PVA primers are somewhat transparent. If you're trying to do a major color shift, like going from dark wall to light walls, then it's not the best. But if you're just trying to give the wall a clean start, then you'll be good to go.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks 😊
We are looking to paint the walls in an open floor plan home which has the original white colored builder paint on the walls. Because of this I feel like the walls will soak up paint quickly. Do you recommend applying a primer first? If so, would you recommend having the primer tinted if we are going with SW Light French Gray? I priced out enough paint for two coats (approx 1500 SF), but thought it might be less expensive to prime first rather than apply two coats of SW Duration Matte.
I'd recommend doing two coats of Duration Matte. That is our go-to interior wall paint for the majority of our residential jobs. I always recommend doing two top coats of your finish paint. The Duration Matte should cover just fine in two coats, especially with a color like Light French Gray. That will give you better results then doing one coat of tinted primer and one top coat.
Happy painting!
If I'm converting over to latex paint for my trim which mind you was oil do I have to sand first or I can just prime with cover stain
You can scuff sand if it’s super slick. You may also consider using a primer like fresh start. I’ve had a lot of success with that recently. It’s much more pleasant to work with than cover stain. If fresh start doesn’t work then I go with BIN. Here’s a video where I use fresh start if you’re interested: The Secrets to Painting Your Handrails FAST
ua-cam.com/video/N61F9K9cjnA/v-deo.html
Used Sherwin Williams drywall primer with Icelandic tint on fresh drywall n came out good. Found two areas after, that needed compound. After sanding, used multi purpose primer with tint n it dried a little darker than the first drywall primer. Why? Will the finish color cover it OK? Used the multi purpose primer on another walk n it was good.
Your finish paint should cover that with no issues. I’m a big proponent of doing two coats of finish paint, but you can see how it looks after one 🫡
Jeremy, wondering why you left out re-painting over walls previously painted with sheens higher than eggshell? Do you simply sand or use a de-glosser? Or do you apply a bonding primer? Painting crews around me range from doing nothing to doing all three. Thanks!
Good question. If we think the eggshell paint won't cover in 2 coats we will use a drywall or multi purpose primer.
I have a couple of questions. Im trying to determine a paint product from SW that is multipupose, so i dont have to buy two different types of products (Emerald, Duration, etc). What would be my best bet to paint the whole house? Is primer needed if the majority of the house has light paint walls (tan, light blue), or can I do two coats instead? I'll be using color paint Acier for the entire walls.
My current go-to wall paint is Emerald matte from SW. You don’t need to prime for typical color shifts. 2 coats and you’ll be good to in most cases.
#7 wallpaper... as a SW guy curious you didnt mention Roman RX PRO 999. Priced similar to GARDZ. Do you think they are similar? Do you always recommend GARDZ
I haven’t used Roman RX so I don’t have an opinion on that product. More recently when the walls have been really messed up after we’ve pulled wallpaper, we’ve been using BIN shellac. That’s pretty much our bomb proof solution for quite a few situations.
Have you ever done just shellac over wall after wallpaper removal and no skim coat mud?
Is it oke to use any type of primer for exterior hpuse painting. Can you suggest a reasonable priced primer for exterior painting. Does it have to be same brand as the paint ?
The primer doesn’t have to be the same brand as the paint. It really depends on why it is you’re priming. That really dictates what product you should go with. If you use a high quality exterior paint like Moorglo Soft-gloss or MoorGuard Low Lustre from Benjamin Moore, then a lot of times you don’t need to prime. Most of the time a decent multi-purpose exterior primer will work. Fresh Start is excellent, but there are decent exterior primers from just about every paint brand.
@SuperVassarBrothers thank you iam actually planing to buy mooegard, to do my exterior painting. But the painter said that we need to do priming before painting as our house is a brown color and we are chainging ot to a lighter color. Is it required to have primer?
I've used the Zinsser 123 on priming drywall repairs, but sometimes it flashes through after I topcoat it. Can you recommend a primer that maybe dries flat, so it doesn't flash through on the final paint coats? Thanks....
We like Drywall primer from Sherwin Williams. May have a slight sheen to it, but we don't have issues with is flashing. We do two coats over it tho. The multi purpose from Sherwin Williams is great to. More expensive, but good.
Since the primers are so good, why not have them colored and not bother with a top coat?
Without getting too much into the weeds, primers and top coats do two different things. Primers generally don't have much sheen to them and are not meant to provide a protective coating on the surface. They are intended to prepare the surface for a top coats. The primer's I mentioned in this video are very good for priming.
Do you need to sand first of your going over a satin wall with a matte or eggshell ?
It’s not a bad idea to hit the walls with a sanding disk as part of your prep. It’s not necessary but it will give you a smoother finish.
I have a can of satin-finish white paint...can I use that to cover my old wall colour? Or will it cause problems with adhesion? My new wall colour will be in a matte finish.
If you’re not doing a dramatic color change then you can go over the old paint with the new matte paint. We always do 2 coats and that almost always does the job.
I also have zinsser 123...would that be overkill?
It'll be an off-white colour. I was just worried it'll mess up the undertone but maybe I'll just add an extra layer. thanks for answering so quickly!
how do you like the preprite problock from SW?
It’s one of my favorites. It’s pretty much the same primer as their multi-purpose in the blue can. I almost always have a can of it in my truck
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks man. always appreciate the videos 👍🏼
should I sand prior to using a shellac primer? or is it sooo good I can skip that -( going latex over oil in this example.)
I’ve never had BIN fail to stick to a surface. You can do a test section, but in my experience you can probably just hit it without sanding.
thank you.@@SuperVassarBrothers
Jeremy, Unfortunately, my door was oil base , the painter didn't give primer , just painted two coat latex fininsh coat. now the door paint flake off . what should i do now ? sanding the door first to get rid of latex coat? thanks .
Ugh, yeah unfortunately you’re going to have to sand off the loose paint. Then I’d suggest using an oil or shellac primer then going over that with whatever trim paint you want. You could also try a hybrid paint after you sand like Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams, Advance or Command from Benjamin Moore.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks a lot for helping me❤️
You still need to prime tiny nail holes that you barely fill?
You’ll be ok if you just hit it with your finish paint most of the time.
Gotcha, what would color white would you paint a closet? I think I can leave you alone after this?
I have a wall painted with a semi-gloss effect and I want to cover it with flat paint. Does it have to be primed? Or i can just seal it later?
You should be good just by doing 2 coats with the flat. There’s no need to seal it after you paint it with the flat paint.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you so much for all the useful infos!
cover stain fumes will kill everything in a 5 mile radius
That’s how you know it’s working 😏
so paint and primer in one is useless?
Pretty much
What do you think of Zinsser 123?
123 is a solid primer. I've used that a fair amount. Most of the primers I've used from Zinsser I've been happy with :)
Sharpie must be covered with oil based primer and not shellac. One of the only things shellac won’t do.
I don't know why that would be. We've used spray KILZ and BIN Shellac over top sharpie and it's always worked fine.
@@SuperVassarBrothersbecause shellac is probably a solvent to the material in the sharpie. But hey if it works it works, I just had a different experience.
Love your channel..hey what type of primer do you recommend for a Rubbermaid plastic type shed..
Hmmm, I don't think I've ever painted something like that. I might just skip the primer and try Regal Moorguard Low Lustre or Moorglo Soft Gloss exterior paint from Benjamin Moore and see if that sticks. If you're having bonding issues then I'd try the High Adhesion bonding primer from Sherwin Williams. You may want to sand it before you put any product on.
Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you for your reply
Hi, Can you recommend a primer for exterior trim?
Generally any interior/exterior multi-purpose primer will work. I use the one from Sherwin Williams. If you’re dealing with raw wood that has a lot of knots and potential for tannin to bleed through then you may want to use something like exterior oil-based wood primer from Sherwin Williams, but most of the time the multi-purpose latex will work just fine
Great , thanks!!@@SuperVassarBrothers
Those "odors" can cause permanent nerve damage.
That's the sacrifice I'm willing to make for a quality finish 😛
Do you agree "Water Based" only
No sure what you mean by “agree”. Almost all of the current paints offered today are water based. There are a few specialty products that are hybrids or are oil-based.
Save yourself time and money, buy Ben Moore aura for large color changes.
That’s a hard pass. We’ve had mixed results with Aura. The eggshell is hot garbage. I’d take Emerald flat or matte over Aura any day of the week.
@@SuperVassarBrothers lol ok… nearly 47% volume solids for aura egg to 37% on emerald, not even close, and then there’s gennex tint…You should spend some more time using these products. You can argue with me all day here, but it won’t benefit you. I promise you that you’re missing out.