A great paint job starts with a great prime coat! Here are my tips for a perfect coat of primer over fresh drywall! Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=109961...
Just so you know... You train my maintenance department. And just so you know, my team gets amazing reviews after all their jobs, even their first experience with a new skill they learned from you. Thank you for helping me build a killer team.You are appreciated for the time and effort you put into teaching your followers and fans such fantastic skills and technique. 🙏
Wow!!! That really makes me happy to hear. Knowing that people are putting these videos to practical use and getting results is what this is all about. Thanks for letting me know!!!🙏
@@vancouvercarpenter I live in Poland and I put your teachings to practice here. I am renovating a tenement house. My own, to let out/rent out. Your tips are great.
I like you as a human , you seem like a nice guy and i like the fact that you try to share knowledge with other people. Quick tip from me to upgrade your knowledge and pass it on ,is to wash with water a new roller before use to get rid of loose hair and spin it fast on a CLEAN surface to throw off 90% of the water. You won’t have particles sticking in your painted walls and also you won’t have that spraying paint until your roller is fully saturated. (I could hear it in the video as soon as you started 😅) Second tip is to apply paint with the elbow of the roller to your left if you move towards your right and backroll with the rollers elbow to your right moving again to your right. The reason is no matter how good your roller is, it does apply more down force at the end part of the elbow , causing it to push paint towards the other side. When you back role you turn the forces and you feather the paint because you pass very gently and the side with the less pressure causes more even feathering and you cant tell where the rolling starts and finishes. Looks like an airbrush application. Last tip do the edges with the brush first and go over them with the small roller (as close to the edges as permitted) to eliminate brush strokes and have the same texture everywhere. Do the rolling part before the edges dry to avoid halo effect. If you live in a warm climate as i do, do one wall at the time to keep the edges wet. Bonus tip , before pouring paint for use we pour it through a thin net or woman’s stocking to trap partisicles , dry paint from the can or anything else that would contaminate the paint. Thank you for passing on knowledge of the trade to others. keep up the good work.
After all this time in the trades, I can't believe I watched someone else paint for twenty plus minutes. I'd lose my mind if the roller hit the ceiling if I were painting the walls. I enjoy Ben because of his attitude and I, guess, I'm willing to support his side gig so that he is even more successful.
Dude I'm a professional painter and thought I knew everything about house painting. I really appreciate your continued diligence in the production of your instructional vids; I gotta say, I grabbed a lot of useful tips from this vid - I've been breaking my back priming drywall unit I saw your method. Nice job, great vid 5 paint spattered thumbs up
I always cut in and roll at the same time. I have a "hip pail" i fashion out of a 4L milk jug (new jug each time, only takes 30 seconds to cut to shape) with a reusable elasticized strap/sleeve (full disclosure, it's made from an old pair of leggings from my wife, pantyhose works well too) with a magnet that wraps/slips on the outside (magnet holds the brush out of the paint when rolling - brush remains inside the jug). The existing handle on the jug is a ready to go belt loop! I simply put paint on the roller, roll on a little area, cut, then back roll. Then do it again on the next area. Always keeps a wet edge, no overlapping layers, and minimizes the care needed to eliminate brush marks. A bonus advantage is that i prep for both rolling and cutting at the same time, and ditto for the cleanup.
When I figured out that rolled primer adds a little texture, it was a game changer in my home repairs. Managing pressure on drywall knives is the next level. Thanks for being a perfectionist and explaining this stuff. Walls matter!
I'll watch your painting videos because your drywall videos are so useful. You explain things well and show how to do it, and often what to avoid doing. I've learned a lot from your videos over the last few years. This was also helpful
Your videos are of great use, especially to us DIYers. I know I was lost on how to get a good skim coat on drywall (previous owner had done a sandy texture on all the walls in guest room) and with your videos and some patience I was able to have it turn out pretty darned good and I'm happy with the results. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and techniques, not only on drywall, but also on trim work. Again, it has helped me to get much better results.
The amonia in acrylic sealers is there to keep the arcrylic polymers from bonding together in the bucket. When applied the amonia evaporates and the polymers bond together to form the seal. I worked in a small batch plant that mixed lastomerics, sealers, and synthetic stucco finishes. It was all made from various acrylic polymers.
Been a renovator for 24 years and I do alot of finish carpentry and drywall taping. Been watching Vancouver carpenter for the last 2 years and appreciate the advice, never too late to learn something new. Keep the videos coming Ben, your approach and attitude are refreshing to see!
I have been painting for years now and I get work from very particular people that love my work but I will be taking these tips and adding them in. It never hurts to be humble and learn new things. Thank you for pointing out the pressure on the roller cage,not everybody knows that.
Thanks for yet another excellent tutorial, Ben! I'm in the middle of rehabbing my house, and used your videos to really help me up my game when it comes to installing drywall, mudding, and sanding. Now I'm getting ready to paint, and this video is so helpful! I'd tried priming earlier in the year, but the primer just wouldn't sand right, so now I'm going to try the one you use.
Been watching your videos to help with my own project. I really appreciate your teaching and just down right niceness in your approach. Watched other video who have come across abrasive and critical of others. Thanks for being you.
This video came at a great time for me. I was about to repaint a small bathroom after some drywall patch repairs. I never paid much attention to nap sizes before, and I noticed that whenever I painted new drywall or patches it always looked smoother than it should and would stand out against the unaffected part of the wall due to differences in texture. This video taught me about using the appropriate nap size, so I went and got a 19mm roller. I did my priming/painting and I'm really happy with the result! It applied the right amount of texture to the patched areas and blended them in perfectly. I'm the most critical of my work, so if I can't see it then nobody else can. I also did rolling first this time, and I like the result better than brushing first. I find that after everything dried, the corners blended in with the walls better that way. Thanks Ben!
Thank you for the tip about rolling before cutting in. It's the opposite of a lot of painting advice I've heard in the past, but your reasoning makes sense. Which is why I also appreciate that you usually explain why you do something the way you do it. I've been doing a lot of drywall on my first house this past year without ever actually getting around to painting any of it. I feel pretty confident that the paint job will turn out as great as the drywall did, with both of them being helped along by your great videos. Take care.
I wish the drywall finisher I hired at my house in Seattle watched your videos… now I’m watching them to fix his “40 yrs experience”! Thanks for the great vids
Great videos Ben! I studied several of your videos before starting on my 13 x 12 spare bedroom. Took it down to the studs and took of the popcorn ceilings. Your techniques and recommendations worked great for me. Cheers!
I painted throughout a bunch of college schooling. I was always put on rolling duty due to my technique. You've done a great job explaining what works and why.
you are a true badass professional, love to watch your videos. helped me bring my drywall skills up with more confidence now in my skills: take care of that family and keep being bad ass
I'm a professional painter, and your videos are awesome. You have the same techniques that I use, and I'm also picking up some new stuff as well. So I know you do things the right way. Fun to watch, and great content. Thanks for posting!
Yep, I learned a few things here. I kinda thought you just throw the primer up on the wall as more of a sealer to fresh drywall, but it makes sense to be consistent and avoid letting your lines dry because they will transfer through the paint. Thank you for sharing!
I must be twice your age. But I love to hear that you are a skateboarder. When I was young, that was a new thing. And then came Roller blades. I was good enough to do both without looking like an amateur. And watching your videos, I know you are as experienced in the trades. I hope more of the younger generation watch your videos. So much satisfaction working with your hands/skills /body. I would go nuts sitting in a cubicle staring at a computer screen. I've lived my life as a carpenter/mudder/sider/trim carpenter etc... It is and still a very satisfying career.
Only a DIY painter, but learned to paint from a professional (the out law) and keep to the same method you use when rolling. I adopted his practice of the cut in first, then roll. Your method of rolling, then cutting in makes that much more sense! Thanks for sharing your tricks and tips! Update: I changed to the roll first, then cut in and the dance is much easier. The painter I learned from was confused as to my new method and has since changed. You can actually teach an old dog new tricks … who would have known!
I like his logic for primer, but finish coat will have a more constant texture near the edges when you hand paint the edges first and then roll constantly ¾” from each edge. In the other order, you can see the haphazard brush strokes after the wall dries.
Thank you for this, we just finished our walls for the new pantry, wanted to know what to do next for priming, and this video popped up. I am beginning to think UA-cam is reading minds now!!! THANK YOU!
Easiest way to roll lower edge is to turn that roller up and then let that steel loop ride along floor. That way you get straight line to bottom which get covered with base board or trim. Also no need to worry that roll hit on floor and gets dirty.
I just bought a jet roller. It combines the spraying with back rolling. It is super high speed for the medium to large projects and is a massive time and labor saver, has about a ten minute learning curve. I also use a 4" roller to hit the corners right before i jet roll a wall. I also absolutely love microfiber rollers. they are very low splatter and don't ever shed. I have found a brand of rollers I like at a good price and stick to them religiously.
Thanks for All the great videos between you and Jeff @HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm renovating my house to a pretty decent level. also appreciate the "mind your manners" statement.
Thanks Ben for the great video!! In the inside corners, I like to use 1"x4" 10 or 15mm Bennett rollers (whatever you like). Load up the roller and roll up on both sides tight to corner, then even out and feather into the rolled section of wall, and there is no brush marks. Looks great and is very fast. :))
I had a contractor skim coat and prime my walls. Here I am on a Friday night, peeling away all of his primer. It's coming off in giant sheets. Thanks for this.
Bin is really good for primer. I also try to use Ben Moore regal select for most interior painting. Aura is great too, goes on the wall like butter, how ever it’s a bit more pricy.
Gota say that angled cutter brushes are the way to go for so much ..... good to see someone else likes them. Sanding after the first coat of primer seems pointless to some people but it guarantees a good smooth base, particularly where some of the board can get a bit hairy. Personally I like to wipe the walls down with a damp rag, DAMP not wet. I realy like two coats of wallboard sealer, gives a realy good solid base. The current house was panted by some sort of lazy numby .......... when I resanded one of the rooms the paint near the joins came off in flakes, because the wall had not been properly dusted. The primer coat had not been sanded and around the joints the finish was rough enough to take the skin off ya knuckles. It only takes a little more attention early to get a good smooth, consistent finish.
I learned from someone to make the final roll all in the same direction (top to bottom) right after backrolling. This provides the most uniform texture formation I've found. Might be an extra step you wouldn't do on a job..but I only paint my own walls.
I finally figured out who Ben sounds like with his Canadian accent. The character is Winston Rothschild, the "sewage sucker" from the Red Green show. Ben, there is no need to tell how valuable your videos are. It's such a pleasure to watch you teach and work.
3/4 to one inch lambs wool is what I use. Adding block filler about one to one Pva makes a wonderfull nap. Seems wrong but it works and sticks like mad with a great finish.
i used regular rollers for 30 years and when I tried a polyamide for the first time this year I will never go back. Not only do they apply the paint better and hold a ton of paint, but they wash very quickly and can be reused over and over and over.
I use the sherwin PVA because it's 50 bucks for a 5 gallon pale. It works for what I do. For roller size, if it's new drywall or patches blending to old, I always use a 19mm roller. I want to add the texture to the new stuff to help it blend it to the likely already textured finishes. Otherwise I stick to 13 & 15 mm.
Rolling first is maybe a little easier but not really as good. When you roll after brushing, you can roll the brush marks out. I like to cut in a wall or 2 then roll while its still wet. A small amount of water in the brush work pot can help too.
Thanks for the 1/2" nap tip. I've been slowing finishing my garage one wall at a time and the drywall is several years old and the paper has yellowed/browned. I was using 3/8" nap rollers and it would always need two coats as the coverage just wasn't there and it would be blotchy. I just finished another wall this morning and used a 1/2" nap roller and only needed 1 coat. What a time saver. I just have one small wall to do to finish my project but this is the worst one and will require almost all the joints to be retaped. I swear a 5th grader did the tape job in this garage as so many joints weren't even filled and the tape was barely covered and peeling/bubbling all over which required lots of fixing. Actually thats not fair to 5th graders, they could have done a better job. Not sure how that passed inspection. Oh any my tip for cutting in when priming both ceiling and walls at the same time is to use a small 4" roller. I drag it across the corner to get paint into it and then go back and back roll each side it for a nice texture. The 4" is plenty to roll into without any bare spots.
If you put some tape around your new roller, it will tage the most of "fluff" so it dont end up in your wall. Also if your want to make your new textured wall look more like the old walls, you can leave more paint on the wall don't put to much pressure when you backroll it, then when you covered most of the wall you go back and gently backrool it again, I always go from top and down so the texture goes same direction.
Hi Ben !One quick tip from me too.Shure you mention also lights shining aloung walls right but please remember that you should have just one direction light (for artificial light) otherwise i ve experienced that natural light could work against our artificial light and fatique the aplicator eyes !Maybe could help some covers on windows! If you choose to work only with natural lights they need to be somekind of glass full dors like you have but i know you have also studio lights when you filming so... Recap natural vs articial lights positions balanced when painting!
I just LOVE your vids. When I am looking for a how to & I see that you have made one I know that whatever you are doing it will be done right. In other words you will give a shit how it turns out & you believe in doing the little prep-work things that really don't take that much time BUT push a job from acceptable to perfect. I work like this & when I watch someone hack thru a job I am always embarrassed for them & sorry for their clients. If you were near me in California, I would hire you in an instant & pay you whatever you asked to do the job. You would do it like I do it. I once had a finish carpenter (NOT a framer but a bloody FINISH carpenter) putting in trim say to me, "You can't always have what you want." I was shocked. The only thing I wanted was to have the corner pieces around my slider plumb & level and the nail holes not show up as small dents in the eggshell paint! So, tiny, female & experience-less, I watched vids like yours & subscribed to Fine Homebuilding and did it myself. AND my corner pieces are plumb & level and my nail holes are perfectly hidden. I learned a lot and YOU have helped a lot!!! Reading is one thing but watching someone actually do something who not only cares but explains, is a God send... I think you and so do my walls, doors, etc....
I don't recommend using cheap PVA primers - they don't have good enough holdout (if topcoat higher than flat/matt finish is used, it flashes). Spend a little extra and have no headaches. Best primer + sealer (both new work and as repaint undercoater) currently on the Canadian market is Dulux Lifemaster Primer Sealer. Premium grade 100% acrylic, has excellent grip, excellent sealing properties, excellent hide, has a slight sheen to it making it a very smooth finish which is very easy to sand, great holdout on any sheen for topcoat, can be tinted to topcoat colour at almost 100% strength.
Thanks for the videos I always dreaded drywall but your techniques were really helpful. The problem is getting a professional to do the one room scenario. It doesn't make economic sense to come back for three days for a few hours to do just one room. Most professionals just aren't interested.
That's true but using a brush in the corners leaves a sharper corner. Jamming a 4" open ended Wizz roller into a corner will get it done but it will also leave the paint more clumpy/drippy in the corner.A quality brush will leave the corners looking more crisp.
I spent an entire day, vacuuming, dusting, blowing the walls and the floor, even considered getting a wet sponge to ensure all of the room was free of dust, and I turn around to see I have a lot of touch up with sandpaper to do, then I see this guy....just get the big clumps....I'm both upset and very happy to see this video
This handsome lad is correct. Sanded mud gets slick, and if you brush primer on it, it gets slicker. You gotta start getting the texture back into the wall right away. I go 3/4" nap for primers, 1/2" for most paints, flat walls, indoors.
i cut in first a good amount and then go over it with a dry roller to get rid of the brush marks, then do two coats on the walls, then finish with the last coat of cut ins. blends perfectly. can’t see a thing.
Could also use a slim roller for corners. All corners for priming everything and just the wall corners when using the actual color. Need to cut the ceiling at that point.
Do yourself a favor if you have multiple corners to paint. pick up a purdy 4” fame and corner nap looks better then brushing and it’s faster and easier. Just jamb it into corner, go up one side then the other. Just wash the nap and you can reuse it multiple times. Been painting for 20 years and started doing this about 5yrs ago.👍🏻
Honestly I'm 6ft2in the 4-8ft extension pole is so much easier to use on a daily basis. You're pretty much the same build as me and it just avoids all bending down which I'm seeing a lot here. Good work and thanks for a few tips on watching your videos!
I always like to cut first, then get the roller as close as possible to the edges to remove any brush marks. I keep a damp rag to wipe away any mistakes. But the real key is to run a bead of caulk in all of the corners where the ceiling meets the walls as it's easy to use blue tape to get a super clean line.
I asked a relative who was worked in drywall and taping for over 39 years, and he said he has never seen any professional painter roll before cutting. For the reasons you mentioned
Pro tip: throw a pair of pantyhose over a 5 gallon bucket or a single stocking around a gallon can and just pour your paint right through the toe. It strains it in seconds. Squeegee your fingers down the sock to the tip and you get 100% of your paint back with all the chunks in the sock. Edit: you can use them a million times if you wash it out right away
Can’t believe I’m actually learning some stuff. Started laughing when he said 3/4” nap for priming but sanding it down is legit. Also rolling first? My mind sajd NOO!! But after thinking about it.. the cut in will be bone dry anyways even if doing 1 wall at a time
Great content as usual, thanks Ben! How many coats of primer do you usually put on? I'm seriously tempted to call it good after the first coat of primer!
I like to fill a (garden) pump sprayer with plain water and mist the walls first. If the drywall is slightly damp, the primer stays workable a little longer and seems to bond more strongly.
@@darrenr1194 I've done it both ways. It seems to go better if the drywall is slightly damp. Don't dampen the drywall if you're in a hurry because it will take longer to dry.
With priming it's not a big deal but on your final coat you're right you should always cut in first then roll. After decades of high end painting I can assure everyone that on many colors the brush strokes will be noticeable if not covered by a roller. It's the difference in the stipple. Or texture as he called it
I like using 18 inch rollers and if I don’t have to be precise with the cut in I like using a chip brush vs an angled brush all the walls I paint also have orange peel texture and I feel like the angled brushes don’t leave enough paint on the wall
Thanks for making it super simple, because these other videos make it seem like rocket science and its not at all, I tell people Literally anyone can paint.
Vacuuming all those plugs and switches before priming is all great but you need to cut the compound and shape up around the boxes with your knife before you prime
I like to paint in 4 foot squares.let them dry, then cut them in on second coat. I found it makes it less possible to hit the edges when the paint softens up from the primer.
So, I was about to ask how tall you were when you started painting the ceiling corners without a ladder, and you immediately answered me like you just read my mind … lol! Cool to hear you’re a skateboarder … you should put a link to your Skate channel in the description … I wanna check it out.
Hello, just a quick question about fixing bad mud job. My wife hired a handyman to paint and spackle and we now have clumped up spackle patches which are painted over. Would it work best to use my orbital sander to bring it back down where I can apply a thin patch and then repaint? Thanks for great vids
Just so you know... You train my maintenance department. And just so you know, my team gets amazing reviews after all their jobs, even their first experience with a new skill they learned from you. Thank you for helping me build a killer team.You are appreciated for the time and effort you put into teaching your followers and fans such fantastic skills and technique. 🙏
Wow!!! That really makes me happy to hear. Knowing that people are putting these videos to practical use and getting results is what this is all about. Thanks for letting me know!!!🙏
@@vancouvercarpenter I live in Poland and I put your teachings to practice here. I am renovating a tenement house. My own, to let out/rent out. Your tips are great.
I like you as a human , you seem like a nice guy and i like the fact that you try to share knowledge with other people.
Quick tip from me to upgrade your knowledge and pass it on ,is to wash with water a new roller before use to get rid of loose hair and spin it fast on a CLEAN surface to throw off 90% of the water. You won’t have particles sticking in your painted walls and also you won’t have that spraying paint until your roller is fully saturated. (I could hear it in the video as soon as you started 😅)
Second tip is to apply paint with the elbow of the roller to your left if you move towards your right and backroll with the rollers elbow to your right moving again to your right. The reason is no matter how good your roller is, it does apply more down force at the end part of the elbow , causing it to push paint towards the other side. When you back role you turn the forces and you feather the paint because you pass very gently and the side with the less pressure causes more even feathering and you cant tell where the rolling starts and finishes. Looks like an airbrush application.
Last tip do the edges with the brush first and go over them with the small roller (as close to the edges as permitted) to eliminate brush strokes and have the same texture everywhere. Do the rolling part before the edges dry to avoid halo effect. If you live in a warm climate as i do, do one wall at the time to keep the edges wet.
Bonus tip , before pouring paint for use we pour it through a thin net or woman’s stocking to trap partisicles , dry paint from the can or anything else that would contaminate the paint.
Thank you for passing on knowledge of the trade to others. keep up the good work.
Thank you also for sharing your knowledge 👍
After all this time in the trades, I can't believe I watched someone else paint for twenty plus minutes. I'd lose my mind if the roller hit the ceiling if I were painting the walls. I enjoy Ben because of his attitude and I, guess, I'm willing to support his side gig so that he is even more successful.
Thank you 😊
Yeah me too. 👍
lol same here 😁
Don't loose your mind if the primer bumps the ceiling. LOL Wipe it off or spread it around.
Same here. But he’ll probs my sand that before painting the ceiling 🤷🏻♂️
Dude
I'm a professional painter and thought I knew everything about house painting.
I really appreciate your continued diligence in the production of your instructional vids; I gotta say, I grabbed a lot of useful tips from this vid - I've been breaking my back priming drywall unit I saw your method. Nice job, great vid 5 paint spattered thumbs up
I always cut in and roll at the same time. I have a "hip pail" i fashion out of a 4L milk jug (new jug each time, only takes 30 seconds to cut to shape) with a reusable elasticized strap/sleeve (full disclosure, it's made from an old pair of leggings from my wife, pantyhose works well too) with a magnet that wraps/slips on the outside (magnet holds the brush out of the paint when rolling - brush remains inside the jug). The existing handle on the jug is a ready to go belt loop! I simply put paint on the roller, roll on a little area, cut, then back roll. Then do it again on the next area. Always keeps a wet edge, no overlapping layers, and minimizes the care needed to eliminate brush marks. A bonus advantage is that i prep for both rolling and cutting at the same time, and ditto for the cleanup.
When I figured out that rolled primer adds a little texture, it was a game changer in my home repairs. Managing pressure on drywall knives is the next level. Thanks for being a perfectionist and explaining this stuff. Walls matter!
I'll watch your painting videos because your drywall videos are so useful. You explain things well and show how to do it, and often what to avoid doing. I've learned a lot from your videos over the last few years. This was also helpful
Your videos are of great use, especially to us DIYers. I know I was lost on how to get a good skim coat on drywall (previous owner had done a sandy texture on all the walls in guest room) and with your videos and some patience I was able to have it turn out pretty darned good and I'm happy with the results. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and techniques, not only on drywall, but also on trim work. Again, it has helped me to get much better results.
The amonia in acrylic sealers is there to keep the arcrylic polymers from bonding together in the bucket.
When applied the amonia evaporates and the polymers bond together to form the seal.
I worked in a small batch plant that mixed lastomerics, sealers, and synthetic stucco finishes.
It was all made from various acrylic polymers.
Wow, inside knowledge
@@DecoyJayc It was a pretty cool job.
I learned alot about what people call latex and acrylics.
@@shawnr771 what's the difference?
@@krikri3387 latex iis a naturally occuring milky substance extracted from plants.
Acrylic is a man made synthetic polymer.
Been a renovator for 24 years and I do alot of finish carpentry and drywall taping. Been watching Vancouver carpenter for the last 2 years and appreciate the advice, never too late to learn something new. Keep the videos coming Ben, your approach and attitude are refreshing to see!
I have been painting for years now and I get work from very particular people that love my work but I will be taking these tips and adding them in. It never hurts to be humble and learn new things. Thank you for pointing out the pressure on the roller cage,not everybody knows that.
Thanks for yet another excellent tutorial, Ben! I'm in the middle of rehabbing my house, and used your videos to really help me up my game when it comes to installing drywall, mudding, and sanding. Now I'm getting ready to paint, and this video is so helpful! I'd tried priming earlier in the year, but the primer just wouldn't sand right, so now I'm going to try the one you use.
Been watching your videos to help with my own project. I really appreciate your teaching and just down right niceness in your approach. Watched other video who have come across abrasive and critical of others. Thanks for being you.
This video came at a great time for me. I was about to repaint a small bathroom after some drywall patch repairs. I never paid much attention to nap sizes before, and I noticed that whenever I painted new drywall or patches it always looked smoother than it should and would stand out against the unaffected part of the wall due to differences in texture.
This video taught me about using the appropriate nap size, so I went and got a 19mm roller. I did my priming/painting and I'm really happy with the result! It applied the right amount of texture to the patched areas and blended them in perfectly. I'm the most critical of my work, so if I can't see it then nobody else can.
I also did rolling first this time, and I like the result better than brushing first. I find that after everything dried, the corners blended in with the walls better that way.
Thanks Ben!
This video came at the perfect time! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. They are a huge help.
Such a nicely done video. Thank you for your straightforward and effective videos. They're so helpful.
Thank you for the tip about rolling before cutting in. It's the opposite of a lot of painting advice I've heard in the past, but your reasoning makes sense. Which is why I also appreciate that you usually explain why you do something the way you do it. I've been doing a lot of drywall on my first house this past year without ever actually getting around to painting any of it. I feel pretty confident that the paint job will turn out as great as the drywall did, with both of them being helped along by your great videos. Take care.
I wish the drywall finisher I hired at my house in Seattle watched your videos… now I’m watching them to fix his “40 yrs experience”! Thanks for the great vids
Been finishing drywall for weeks on different jobs. Today I’m off but here I am watching someone else finish drywall. I think I’m addicted
My friend, you speak as a true craftman.
I like that you addressed about the primers and rolls , I don't know nothing about it now you gave me a good info thank you.
ProTip. Use a mesh 5 gallon bucket strainer into a fresh 5 gallon bucket.
I am going to try that
Great videos Ben! I studied several of your videos before starting on my 13 x 12 spare bedroom. Took it down to the studs and took of the popcorn ceilings. Your techniques and recommendations worked great for me. Cheers!
I painted throughout a bunch of college schooling. I was always put on rolling duty due to my technique. You've done a great job explaining what works and why.
you are a true badass professional, love to watch your videos. helped me bring my drywall skills up with more confidence now in my skills: take care of that family and keep being bad ass
I'm a professional painter, and your videos are awesome. You have the same techniques that I use, and I'm also picking up some new stuff as well. So I know you do things the right way. Fun to watch, and great content. Thanks for posting!
Yep, I learned a few things here. I kinda thought you just throw the primer up on the wall as more of a sealer to fresh drywall, but it makes sense to be consistent and avoid letting your lines dry because they will transfer through the paint. Thank you for sharing!
I must be twice your age. But I love to hear that you are a skateboarder. When I was young, that was a new thing. And then came Roller blades. I was good enough to do both without looking like an amateur. And watching your videos, I know you are as experienced in the trades. I hope more of the younger generation watch your videos. So much satisfaction working with your hands/skills /body. I would go nuts sitting in a cubicle staring at a computer screen. I've lived my life as a carpenter/mudder/sider/trim carpenter etc... It is and still a very satisfying career.
My house renovation didn't start to have a professional look to it until I started to watch videos like these. It's not a waste of time
I only recently started rolling first. It does seem to go faster but I've never actually timed myself. Nice job!
Perhaps the best video I have watched. Straight to the point. Nice and simple. Now subscribed.
Thank you!!! and welcome!!!
Only a DIY painter, but learned to paint from a professional (the out law) and keep to the same method you use when rolling. I adopted his practice of the cut in first, then roll. Your method of rolling, then cutting in makes that much more sense! Thanks for sharing your tricks and tips!
Update: I changed to the roll first, then cut in and the dance is much easier. The painter I learned from was confused as to my new method and has since changed. You can actually teach an old dog new tricks … who would have known!
For priming this is fine, but for finish coat you should cut in first.
Relieved that we rolled primer first on drywall and I thought I’d messed up. But sounds like all is well!
I like his logic for primer, but finish coat will have a more constant texture near the edges when you hand paint the edges first and then roll constantly ¾” from each edge. In the other order, you can see the haphazard brush strokes after the wall dries.
@j10001 absolutely correct. Some deeper colors it will show a lot!
Thank you for this, we just finished our walls for the new pantry, wanted to know what to do next for priming, and this video popped up. I am beginning to think UA-cam is reading minds now!!! THANK YOU!
Easiest way to roll lower edge is to turn that roller up and then let that steel loop ride along floor. That way you get straight line to bottom which get covered with base board or trim. Also no need to worry that roll hit on floor and gets dirty.
I agree with everybody's comments below, I learned a bunch of tricks that I'm using in my house renovations keep up the good work buddy!
You've stated it so many times. You definitely hit your "painting zen" so easily. It is evident even in your tone. Awesome content.
Thank you😀
Perfect video this is the next step of my walls that I need to work on soon.
Thanks
For
All the great tips!! First time drywall / retired trim guy :)
TGIF with Vancouver Carpenter doing a painting video!! Keep up the good work Ben !!
I just bought a jet roller. It combines the spraying with back rolling. It is super high speed for the medium to large projects and is a massive time and labor saver, has about a ten minute learning curve. I also use a 4" roller to hit the corners right before i jet roll a wall. I also absolutely love microfiber rollers. they are very low splatter and don't ever shed. I have found a brand of rollers I like at a good price and stick to them religiously.
What brand?
@@janetthornton7909 it is a Graco
Thanks for All the great videos between you and Jeff @HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm renovating my house to a pretty decent level.
also appreciate the "mind your manners" statement.
Your awesome! Your definitely a Master of All Trades. You deserve your own show on the HGTV channel.
That was actually a good instructional video. Covered it well but not to cluttered and easy to assimilate plus retain.
Looking forward to seeing that pipe patch!
Thanks Ben for the great video!!
In the inside corners, I like to use 1"x4" 10 or 15mm Bennett rollers (whatever you like).
Load up the roller and roll up on both sides tight to corner, then even out and feather into the rolled section of wall, and there is no brush marks.
Looks great and is very fast. :))
We call those whizzie rollers or whizzies
"mind your manners" I love it! Treat everyone with dignity and respect :)
You do such wonderful work. Thank you.
HAHA you caught me off guard with the 3 way NO 😆😂🤣
I had a contractor skim coat and prime my walls. Here I am on a Friday night, peeling away all of his primer. It's coming off in giant sheets. Thanks for this.
Bin is really good for primer. I also try to use Ben Moore regal select for most interior painting. Aura is great too, goes on the wall like butter, how ever it’s a bit more pricy.
For me (in NY) aura is 5$ more a gallon, almost always worth it.
I just took a swig of my coffee at 16:00 when you mentioned "...first time hitting the 3-way...". Too funny, but now I have a clean-up job here...
Gota say that angled cutter brushes are the way to go for so much ..... good to see someone else likes them.
Sanding after the first coat of primer seems pointless to some people but it guarantees a good smooth base, particularly where some of the board can get a bit hairy.
Personally I like to wipe the walls down with a damp rag, DAMP not wet.
I realy like two coats of wallboard sealer, gives a realy good solid base.
The current house was panted by some sort of lazy numby .......... when I resanded one of the rooms the paint near the joins came off in flakes, because the wall had not been properly dusted.
The primer coat had not been sanded and around the joints the finish was rough enough to take the skin off ya knuckles.
It only takes a little more attention early to get a good smooth, consistent finish.
I see most people "cut in" first, but your reasoning makes sense, Ima try it! Thanx Ben
on final paint coat, you should definitely cut in first. on all other coats, rolling first usually makes cutting easier.
Like the other person commented. Only do that for priming. Finish coats should be cut in first to avoid flashing.
I learned from someone to make the final roll all in the same direction (top to bottom) right after backrolling. This provides the most uniform texture formation I've found. Might be an extra step you wouldn't do on a job..but I only paint my own walls.
I was taught that same method about 30 years ago.
Funny I do this without even knowing it's a thing.
Best tip is to reload the roller more often than you think necessary . Puke it on quickly then backrollwith a dry-ish roller
I find your videos to be very therapeutic and very soothing! Lol.......
I finally figured out who Ben sounds like with his Canadian accent. The character is Winston Rothschild, the "sewage sucker" from the Red Green show. Ben, there is no need to tell how valuable your videos are. It's such a pleasure to watch you teach and work.
3/4 to one inch lambs wool is what I use. Adding block filler about one to one Pva makes a wonderfull nap. Seems wrong but it works and sticks like mad with a great finish.
i used regular rollers for 30 years and when I tried a polyamide for the first time this year I will never go back. Not only do they apply the paint better and hold a ton of paint, but they wash very quickly and can be reused over and over and over.
Gonna try one, thanks for posting !
Thanks again for the painting tips
Dude shows up looking like he's about to skateboard your stairs and leaves you with a fresh looking house. i like it.
I use the sherwin PVA because it's 50 bucks for a 5 gallon pale. It works for what I do.
For roller size, if it's new drywall or patches blending to old, I always use a 19mm roller. I want to add the texture to the new stuff to help it blend it to the likely already textured finishes.
Otherwise I stick to 13 & 15 mm.
Interesting! How well does the primer sand, in your experience?
Another great one, Ben.
Rolling first is maybe a little easier but not really as good. When you roll after brushing, you can roll the brush marks out. I like to cut in a wall or 2 then roll while its still wet. A small amount of water in the brush work pot can help too.
Thanks for the 1/2" nap tip. I've been slowing finishing my garage one wall at a time and the drywall is several years old and the paper has yellowed/browned. I was using 3/8" nap rollers and it would always need two coats as the coverage just wasn't there and it would be blotchy. I just finished another wall this morning and used a 1/2" nap roller and only needed 1 coat. What a time saver. I just have one small wall to do to finish my project but this is the worst one and will require almost all the joints to be retaped. I swear a 5th grader did the tape job in this garage as so many joints weren't even filled and the tape was barely covered and peeling/bubbling all over which required lots of fixing. Actually thats not fair to 5th graders, they could have done a better job. Not sure how that passed inspection. Oh any my tip for cutting in when priming both ceiling and walls at the same time is to use a small 4" roller. I drag it across the corner to get paint into it and then go back and back roll each side it for a nice texture. The 4" is plenty to roll into without any bare spots.
If you put some tape around your new roller, it will tage the most of "fluff" so it dont end up in your wall. Also if your want to make your new textured wall look more like the old walls, you can leave more paint on the wall don't put to much pressure when you backroll it, then when you covered most of the wall you go back and gently backrool it again, I always go from top and down so the texture goes same direction.
14:30 agreed and tysm for all the suggestions, your videos are always so helpful!
Hi Ben !One quick tip from me too.Shure you mention also lights shining aloung walls right but please remember that you should have just one direction light (for artificial light) otherwise i ve experienced that natural light could work against our artificial light and fatique the aplicator eyes !Maybe could help some covers on windows!
If you choose to work only with natural lights they need to be somekind of glass full dors like you have but i know you have also studio lights when you filming so...
Recap natural vs articial lights positions balanced when painting!
Thanks for sharing. That was a good video
So helpful. Thank you.
I just LOVE your vids. When I am looking for a how to & I see that you have made one I know that whatever you are doing it will be done right. In other words you will give a shit how it turns out & you believe in doing the little prep-work things that really don't take that much time BUT push a job from acceptable to perfect. I work like this & when I watch someone hack thru a job I am always embarrassed for them & sorry for their clients. If you were near me in California, I would hire you in an instant & pay you whatever you asked to do the job. You would do it like I do it. I once had a finish carpenter (NOT a framer but a bloody FINISH carpenter) putting in trim say to me, "You can't always have what you want." I was shocked. The only thing I wanted was to have the corner pieces around my slider plumb & level and the nail holes not show up as small dents in the eggshell paint! So, tiny, female & experience-less, I watched vids like yours & subscribed to Fine Homebuilding and did it myself. AND my corner pieces are plumb & level and my nail holes are perfectly hidden. I learned a lot and YOU have helped a lot!!! Reading is one thing but watching someone actually do something who not only cares but explains, is a God send... I think you and so do my walls, doors, etc....
I don't recommend using cheap PVA primers - they don't have good enough holdout (if topcoat higher than flat/matt finish is used, it flashes). Spend a little extra and have no headaches. Best primer + sealer (both new work and as repaint undercoater) currently on the Canadian market is Dulux Lifemaster Primer Sealer. Premium grade 100% acrylic, has excellent grip, excellent sealing properties, excellent hide, has a slight sheen to it making it a very smooth finish which is very easy to sand, great holdout on any sheen for topcoat, can be tinted to topcoat colour at almost 100% strength.
Me puedes enseñar como se tiene soy de cali colombia
Thanks for the videos I always dreaded drywall but your techniques were really helpful. The problem is getting a professional to do the one room scenario. It doesn't make economic sense to come back for three days for a few hours to do just one room. Most professionals just aren't interested.
You can buy corner rollers which makes it even faster, and even less chance of seeing brush marks
That's true but using a brush in the corners leaves a sharper corner. Jamming a 4" open ended Wizz roller into a corner will get it done but it will also leave the paint more clumpy/drippy in the corner.A quality brush will leave the corners looking more crisp.
I spent an entire day, vacuuming, dusting, blowing the walls and the floor, even considered getting a wet sponge to ensure all of the room was free of dust, and I turn around to see I have a lot of touch up with sandpaper to do, then I see this guy....just get the big clumps....I'm both upset and very happy to see this video
This handsome lad is correct. Sanded mud gets slick, and if you brush primer on it, it gets slicker. You gotta start getting the texture back into the wall right away. I go 3/4" nap for primers, 1/2" for most paints, flat walls, indoors.
I have never sanded primer. Would love to see a video on that.
i cut in first a good amount and then go over it with a dry roller to get rid of the brush marks, then do two coats on the walls, then finish with the last coat of cut ins. blends perfectly. can’t see a thing.
Could also use a slim roller for corners. All corners for priming everything and just the wall corners when using the actual color. Need to cut the ceiling at that point.
Do yourself a favor if you have multiple corners to paint. pick up a purdy 4” fame and corner nap looks better then brushing and it’s faster and easier. Just jamb it into corner, go up one side then the other. Just wash the nap and you can reuse it multiple times. Been painting for 20 years and started doing this about 5yrs ago.👍🏻
I’ve only ever seen one painter do that. It worked really well. I always forget to try it. Maybe on a future video👍
Honestly I'm 6ft2in the 4-8ft extension pole is so much easier to use on a daily basis. You're pretty much the same build as me and it just avoids all bending down which I'm seeing a lot here. Good work and thanks for a few tips on watching your videos!
I second the longer pole, I'm 6'2" as well and use a 2 to 4 foot pole fully extended... much less bending.
@@dynamic467 But surely you'd be bending just as much as him in the video. Bigger pole less bending over.
You’re right actually. I just don’t usually have it with me because I’m usually only painting a few things in small spaces very sporadically.
I do the same thing as JP Prince and I'm the same build and height as VC.
VC- Viet Cong love you long time!
I always like to cut first, then get the roller as close as possible to the edges to remove any brush marks. I keep a damp rag to wipe away any mistakes. But the real key is to run a bead of caulk in all of the corners where the ceiling meets the walls as it's easy to use blue tape to get a super clean line.
I asked a relative who was worked in drywall and taping for over 39 years, and he said he has never seen any professional painter roll before cutting. For the reasons you mentioned
He said he likes to roll first on _fresh_ drywall
Same painting techniques always apply no matter the surface ~ cut first, then roll.
great information thanks
Pro tip: throw a pair of pantyhose over a 5 gallon bucket or a single stocking around a gallon can and just pour your paint right through the toe. It strains it in seconds. Squeegee your fingers down the sock to the tip and you get 100% of your paint back with all the chunks in the sock. Edit: you can use them a million times if you wash it out right away
Can’t believe I’m actually learning some stuff. Started laughing when he said 3/4” nap for priming but sanding it down is legit. Also rolling first? My mind sajd NOO!! But after thinking about it.. the cut in will be bone dry anyways even if doing 1 wall at a time
Great content as usual, thanks Ben! How many coats of primer do you usually put on? I'm seriously tempted to call it good after the first coat of primer!
nice video, good job !
I like to fill a (garden) pump sprayer with plain water and mist the walls first. If the drywall is slightly damp, the primer stays workable a little longer and seems to bond more strongly.
IF you are using good quality primer SEALER then you don't need to wet your walls... That's the first time I've heard anyone doing that lol
@@darrenr1194 I've done it both ways. It seems to go better if the drywall is slightly damp. Don't dampen the drywall if you're in a hurry because it will take longer to dry.
Good stuffm helps as I build my house
1/2" is 12-13mm
I like to cut in, then roll. I roll along the cut in edges and smooth out the brush lines.
With priming it's not a big deal but on your final coat you're right you should always cut in first then roll. After decades of high end painting I can assure everyone that on many colors the brush strokes will be noticeable if not covered by a roller. It's the difference in the stipple. Or texture as he called it
Hello colleague, I am from Russia and I like your good job
I like using 18 inch rollers and if I don’t have to be precise with the cut in I like using a chip brush vs an angled brush all the walls I paint also have orange peel texture and I feel like the angled brushes don’t leave enough paint on the wall
I learned to keep that fluff off the roller you use tape over the entire nap before you load it up with paint
Saw a Trusscore ad for one of your videos, you should make a video on them.
Rolled that like button
Thanks for making it super simple, because these other videos make it seem like rocket science and its not at all, I tell people Literally anyone can paint.
Vacuuming all those plugs and switches before priming is all great but you need to cut the compound and shape up around the boxes with your knife before you prime
I like to paint in 4 foot squares.let them dry, then cut them in on second coat. I found it makes it less possible to hit the edges when the paint softens up from the primer.
So, I was about to ask how tall you were when you started painting the ceiling corners without a ladder, and you immediately answered me like you just read my mind … lol! Cool to hear you’re a skateboarder … you should put a link to your Skate channel in the description … I wanna check it out.
Hello, just a quick question about fixing bad mud job. My wife hired a handyman to paint and spackle and we now have clumped up spackle patches which are painted over. Would it work best to use my orbital sander to bring it back down where I can apply a thin patch and then repaint? Thanks for great vids
My favorite is prep rite by sherwin Williams. Love how fast it dries after the coat.
What’s your thoughts on it?