Great CAD tutorial as always. A recommendation for creating multi material CAD: If you create only a 0.2-0.4mm thick layer for different colors and leave the rest as a base color that means you only have to do a handful of filament purges throughout the print instead of multiple per layer. This will save tremendously on filament waste and print time while maintaining the aesthetic of a multi color print. This worked well for me in a large batch job of multi material prints I did. Another point: if your colors go all the way through the z axis, the different colored parts may not actually physically bond to each other and they could fall apart.
Expanding on the thinner layer method, you can also achieve pretty good multi color logos with a printer that doesn't normally support multi color/material. Just make the logo very thin, like 0.1mm, and make sure to center it on the buildplate in your slicer. Print the logo and leave it on the buildplate. Then, with the "frame" you want the logo on you can just model it with a completely flat surface, and make sure that the center point of the frame matches the one on the logo. You can then load a new color in the printer and place the frame model centered on the buildplate with a first layer thickness of about 0.2-0.25mm. Start the print, and it will "overwrite" the logo with the frame on top, and melt the frame to the logo. It's a bit tedious, but it usually works great as long as you have a well tuned printer that makes good first layers and has good adhesion to the buildplate. Once you're used to the process it doesn't even take that long to set up.
You can do something similar with a single extruder printer. Get the sketch setup the same way, then extrude the entire sketch the thickness of the first color. Open the sketch again and extrude everything but the first color, doing a join so it's all one object making this extrude slightly larger than the first one--one or two layers should be enough. Repeat this over and over until you've done all the colors in your object. That will give you an object that has different layers. In your slicer, put a color change or pause command in at each color change. Take the open source logo, for example, The first extrude would be the entire sketch a height of 5 mm. Then the next one would be just the inner part of the logo to a height of 5.2 or 5.4 mm for a 0.2mm layer height. In your slicer, put a color change after the 5mm layer is complete. Your printer will pause, you can then change the filament and resume the print. The logo will be slightly proud of the surface, in a different color.
Another option, extrude the different text options are marginally different depths (think 0.01mm). Bambu studio will see the slightly different later height making it easy to paint as a surface, but when sliced will round off the small difference in height into one bottom surface.
If you don't want to use the cloud, here's my workflow: * If you're starting from something like Word, PowerPoint, Excel, or anything similar, export or print to PDF. PDFs can store vector graphics, so no need to worry that you're losing resolution or anything. * Inkscape can import PDFs, so you can use it to import. Any text will have to be converted to paths, and if you have any bitmap graphics, you will want to trace them, which Inkscape has tools for. * Blender can import SVGs. From there, you can apply the Solidify modifier to extrude the paths or do whatever you want with them.
One thing Bambu/Orcaslicer can't do that PrusaSlicer can is let you only print the logo portion for a couple of layers instead of having it be solid all the way through. This saves hours of print time and tons of filament swaps.
@@glopyz This is something I observed recently. I have a model similar to the one in the video except the “logo” is thin and on the top and bottom surfaces. The object is 10mm thick while the logos are 0.6mm thick. When importing a 3mf as an object with multiple parts, Orcaslicer doesn’t slice the logo on the face on the build plate. PrusaSlicer doesn’t have this issue. Maybe if you import them as separate objects and merge them OrcaSlicer can slice them, but that disrupts this nice workflow demonstrated here.
As you say - don't use anything with that platform that you don't want to be copied. Also - as for mr Lee and similar projects, you might want to make them single-sided and then just put the black a layer or two on top on top of the background. This will save time and filament and will even be possible with an ordinary printer, given it supports M600 (which includes virtually anything unless it's very old or named Ultimaker)
I must be getting all the same videos. This is the 3rd one I got in a week. lol This one is a little more hands on than the others though. The others were far less steps but good to see how to manually do it.
Great video! It would be nice to show how to do this without the colors going all the way through, and just have black (or whatever your base color is) in the background.
When choosing the filament/color for each part, just type in the number associated with the filament. Must faster than going through all of the menus to change filament.
How can you add a logo to an existing 3 model to print flat on the model surface? For instance, putting a logo on a baseball hat or a logo on a football helmet?
@@rp479you can do it with a single extruder too. You just have to be there for each filament change instead of the machine doing the change itself. It's very time consuming though.😅
@@rp479you can also do it with the marker style multicolor printer aswell. I forget the name for it but it works alright 👍 just need white/transparent petg
I do this with multiple gcodes, one for each color, thus obtaining everything on the same layer, using z hop to avoid scratching what is already printed
When I 'create selection' and change to 'loop' then select a line, it will not complete the loop. I thought perhaps there was a break in it that I can't see but if I extrude the same outline, that works fine. I've tried on various outlines, and none seem to complete the loop. What am I missing?
I know this is quite an old video but if you had made the text about 0.2mm thick, you would have only changed the filament about 5 times instead of 51.
I have to say, i`m a littel disapointed that this didn`t cover the one colour printer multi colour prinitng (which is done in layers of different colours on top of one another, with filament changes in between. but it`s stunning the quaility the bambulab produces and great idea to print upside down...
Trying a free Onshape account, and it looks NOTHING like what is in this video. There is no menu at all in onshape. Confused. Is there an easier way to do this?
You printed your logo in a pretty bad way. The multiple colours are only for cosmetic reasons but you have different colours all the way through the part, so multiple filament changes every layer. You should have had the bulk of the print be black and have the letters just as a thin layer on the top or bottom, it is more steps to do but still isn’t difficult. It would save a lot of filament and time.
Great CAD tutorial as always.
A recommendation for creating multi material CAD: If you create only a 0.2-0.4mm thick layer for different colors and leave the rest as a base color that means you only have to do a handful of filament purges throughout the print instead of multiple per layer. This will save tremendously on filament waste and print time while maintaining the aesthetic of a multi color print.
This worked well for me in a large batch job of multi material prints I did.
Another point: if your colors go all the way through the z axis, the different colored parts may not actually physically bond to each other and they could fall apart.
Yes! 👍
Expanding on the thinner layer method, you can also achieve pretty good multi color logos with a printer that doesn't normally support multi color/material.
Just make the logo very thin, like 0.1mm, and make sure to center it on the buildplate in your slicer. Print the logo and leave it on the buildplate.
Then, with the "frame" you want the logo on you can just model it with a completely flat surface, and make sure that the center point of the frame matches the one on the logo. You can then load a new color in the printer and place the frame model centered on the buildplate with a first layer thickness of about 0.2-0.25mm. Start the print, and it will "overwrite" the logo with the frame on top, and melt the frame to the logo.
It's a bit tedious, but it usually works great as long as you have a well tuned printer that makes good first layers and has good adhesion to the buildplate. Once you're used to the process it doesn't even take that long to set up.
You can do something similar with a single extruder printer. Get the sketch setup the same way, then extrude the entire sketch the thickness of the first color. Open the sketch again and extrude everything but the first color, doing a join so it's all one object making this extrude slightly larger than the first one--one or two layers should be enough. Repeat this over and over until you've done all the colors in your object. That will give you an object that has different layers. In your slicer, put a color change or pause command in at each color change.
Take the open source logo, for example, The first extrude would be the entire sketch a height of 5 mm. Then the next one would be just the inner part of the logo to a height of 5.2 or 5.4 mm for a 0.2mm layer height. In your slicer, put a color change after the 5mm layer is complete. Your printer will pause, you can then change the filament and resume the print. The logo will be slightly proud of the surface, in a different color.
or use hueforge :)
I had to pay a moment of respect at the slight pause at the chute clog.
Another option, extrude the different text options are marginally different depths (think 0.01mm). Bambu studio will see the slightly different later height making it easy to paint as a surface, but when sliced will round off the small difference in height into one bottom surface.
thanks! i was hoping it would round out but wasnt really sure.
I wish you’d uploaded this a week ago! I was attempting this exact thing for my brother and his friends.
Super useful. Thanks
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, Michael!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
If you don't want to use the cloud, here's my workflow:
* If you're starting from something like Word, PowerPoint, Excel, or anything similar, export or print to PDF. PDFs can store vector graphics, so no need to worry that you're losing resolution or anything.
* Inkscape can import PDFs, so you can use it to import. Any text will have to be converted to paths, and if you have any bitmap graphics, you will want to trace them, which Inkscape has tools for.
* Blender can import SVGs. From there, you can apply the Solidify modifier to extrude the paths or do whatever you want with them.
One thing Bambu/Orcaslicer can't do that PrusaSlicer can is let you only print the logo portion for a couple of layers instead of having it be solid all the way through. This saves hours of print time and tons of filament swaps.
how exactly? can you elaborate please and thank you!
@@glopyz This is something I observed recently. I have a model similar to the one in the video except the “logo” is thin and on the top and bottom surfaces. The object is 10mm thick while the logos are 0.6mm thick. When importing a 3mf as an object with multiple parts, Orcaslicer doesn’t slice the logo on the face on the build plate. PrusaSlicer doesn’t have this issue. Maybe if you import them as separate objects and merge them OrcaSlicer can slice them, but that disrupts this nice workflow demonstrated here.
The Open Source Hardware logo at 8:34 was an SVG to start with. A vector format. InkScape can convert that to DXF without ever losing the vector data.
InkScape could convert raster files too. We use the same process for our Cricut.
Finally. Been looking to see a video with this type of work
You can also import the image in cad software and trace over it. Autocad will even allow you to snap to the lines.
Awesome video. Your ttr logo turned out sweet!!
As you say - don't use anything with that platform that you don't want to be copied.
Also - as for mr Lee and similar projects, you might want to make them single-sided and then just put the black a layer or two on top on top of the background. This will save time and filament and will even be possible with an ordinary printer, given it supports M600 (which includes virtually anything unless it's very old or named Ultimaker)
Great video, well explained.
Really live your tutorial videos! They help me a lot.
I must be getting all the same videos. This is the 3rd one I got in a week. lol
This one is a little more hands on than the others though. The others were far less steps but good to see how to manually do it.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
That s VERY VERY NICE !!!! i love it !
Cool! I have seen something like this but with no CAD involved, but even I could use this!
Really enjoying this . I am trying to scratch build a 00 scale Clyde Puffer and need sim Cowl vents. Do you know how to model them?
Thanks
Charlie
Would it make sense to design thicker parts so the colored segments are only 3-4 layers deep to save purge waste and print faster?
Great video! It would be nice to show how to do this without the colors going all the way through, and just have black (or whatever your base color is) in the background.
Love it
Awesome video! Please consider making a octo4a tutorial. It's an awesome tool that has helped me a lot and might help others!
When choosing the filament/color for each part, just type in the number associated with the filament. Must faster than going through all of the menus to change filament.
Niceeee 🎉🎉🎉
How can you add a logo to an existing 3 model to print flat on the model surface? For instance, putting a logo on a baseball hat or a logo on a football helmet?
When's the HueForge tutorial coming up?
Can we do a camouflage pattern on an already available stl?
OT: I find it funny how hard it is to handle extruding an imported SVG file :)
You can export the step file without transforming it to a mesh
What soft ware are you using ?
I have created multi color prints using a single extruder. You just need to change the filament at different layer heights in your slicer.
That is not what this is. This is about having different colors on the same layer
@@rp479you can do it with a single extruder too. You just have to be there for each filament change instead of the machine doing the change itself. It's very time consuming though.😅
@@rp479you can also do it with the marker style multicolor printer aswell. I forget the name for it but it works alright 👍 just need white/transparent petg
@@whatif8741 that is correct but that’s not what the original comment was talking about
I do this with multiple gcodes, one for each color, thus obtaining everything on the same layer, using z hop to avoid scratching what is already printed
Have you done any with resin printing ?
When I 'create selection' and change to 'loop' then select a line, it will not complete the loop. I thought perhaps there was a break in it that I can't see but if I extrude the same outline, that works fine. I've tried on various outlines, and none seem to complete the loop. What am I missing?
how do you do something that is not flat..
bambu cannot see the breaks in the objects
Can you do one of these for Fusion 360 as well? Please!
I know this is quite an old video but if you had made the text about 0.2mm thick, you would have only changed the filament about 5 times instead of 51.
What if you want to select more than one line for the offset? It doesn't work, e.g. I want to make some keyrings, but the letters aren't connected.
Great video but Michael.... can we talk about how you're still using WinRAR instead of something modern and open source like 7-Zip? 😆
He maybe bought WinRAR 😂
I have to say, i`m a littel disapointed that this didn`t cover the one colour printer multi colour prinitng (which is done in layers of different colours on top of one another, with filament changes in between. but it`s stunning the quaility the bambulab produces and great idea to print upside down...
The purgeblock was a very unfortunate colorscheeme.
I recognize that Ayrton Senna helmet 😏
А как быть, если у тебя нет устройства для смены цвета пластика???
Als deutscher kann ich hier nur sagen dass der wipe-tower eine sehr ungünstige Zusammensetzung hat
What an epic fail.
No Chuck Norris.
**Shakes head**
Trying a free Onshape account, and it looks NOTHING like what is in this video. There is no menu at all in onshape. Confused. Is there an easier way to do this?
Flex PLA vid?!???!!!!!
You printed your logo in a pretty bad way. The multiple colours are only for cosmetic reasons but you have different colours all the way through the part, so multiple filament changes every layer. You should have had the bulk of the print be black and have the letters just as a thin layer on the top or bottom, it is more steps to do but still isn’t difficult. It would save a lot of filament and time.
But all i got is my 3 year old janky Ender 3 Pro...😭😭😭
Your first layer is a disaster with all that junk.
hey man may you please give me one small 3D printer🙏🙏🙏
* Makes open source hardware logo
* Tutorial is for OnShape and Bambu
Ouch. Yeah, this video is getting a thumbs down from me now.