Duet/HE3 Electric Dryer Thermistor Replacement
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the thermistor on a Whirlpool dryer model #WED8300SW0 . The most common reasons for replacing the thermistor are when the dryer takes too long or won’t stop.
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Additional dryer repair, troubleshooting tips, help with finding your model number and part replacement videos: www.repairclini...
All of the information for this heating element replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Inglis
Tools needed: hex socket, flat head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver
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BIG TIP: check to see if you can just reach the Thermistor more easily first by unplugging the dryer from the wall, removing the lower kickpanel with its two screws and then just reaching in to the thermistor through that hole.
THANK YOU. I was procrastinating before taking everything apart (I've done that before for other reasons) but you saved me a huge amount of time, thermistor was easy to reach and replace without moving anything except the front lower cover!. Thermistor wasn't the problem but new one was cheap. Already had bought a reconditioned control panel on eBay ($145), installed that and I am good to go, control panel was the problem.
Yup I did this and fixed it in less than 10 min.
Do NOT do this!
As others have said, remove bottom panel, replace themistor, replace bottom panel. Job done.
Tearing the machine completely apart as in these instructions is idiotic and *completely* unnecessary.
As we said in reply to the comment below, it is not that easy with this model. If this was an original Duet dryer that would work. This is a Duet Sport and it is more difficult than that.
*****
Then you need to be VERY SPECIFIC in your description and your video of what model you are working on. You should also show how easy it is for the older model. Anyone trusting your presentation for all models is going way out of their way.
@@repairclinic What is different about the sport? The thermistor and its connectors are visible/accessible at 1:04 in the video. The space between the connectors and the lint filter housing / drum look similar to the original duet. A small 1/4 wrench or socket works great to save lots of time.
Easily accessible just removing lower panel... nuts, but at least we know how to fully tear it down...
Thanks! There's no way I'm going to remove all that zhit!
There is ZERO need to do all of this to replace the thermistor and I am really shocked that "professionals" would post a video that is so misleading. You can take bottom panel off and get to this part.
+hunclemike Thanks
That’s what I was thinking. Completely unnecessary to do all the extra work.
This is how they charge people their crazy high rates to repair your appliance.
No dude it takes an extra 5 minutes and if you take the drum off you'll get direct, unobstructed access to the thermistor.
On this model, CORRECT!.
Add 2:00 (also 1:47) you can see the Thermister. In my case I opened the bottom panel and since the bottom was full of lint I vacuumed it out. You'll notice there is a slope on the housing where the thermister is mounted. The bottom of my unit contained loose change and some of it had landed on this slope. It worked its way down till it shorted across the two leads on the thermister. My leads did not have these protective covers and were exposed metal. Long story short... removed the change and the assembly line of change on this slope and the unit returned to normal operation. Easy fix and I only had to open the bottom to get access.
I need this calm Repair Clinic voice guy to walk me through everything I do daily from the moment I wake until I go to sleep at night.
1. Sit upright in your bed.
2. Pivot torso towards the floor.
3. Carefully place both feet on the floor.
4. Silence alarm device and proceed to the kitchen.
5. Place coffee filter in coffee maker.
6. Place water in water reservoir.
7. Fill coffee filter with coffee.
8. Press start.
9. Add desired creamer and sweetener if desired to coffee mug.
10. Caution: Hot! (Que caution music 🎶.) When coffee is finished, brewing, carefully pour coffee into mug.
11. Stir the contents of mug.
12. Proceed to front porch.
13. Light cigarette and enjoy coffee and cigarette while waking up and catching up with overnight events on your cellphone.😅
Thank you for the complement.
Thank you! Worked great. We were happy to realize we did not have to remove the belt in order to get to the thermistor. (Just had to lift the drum up a bit.)
This may be the factory recommended method, but this is an absurdly wasteful procedure if time is of any importance. The thermistor as well as the heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat and thermal cut-off units are all reachable by simply removing the lower front panel. You do not need to disassemble the entire cabinet and drum assembly to reach them. I know because I have replaced all of them on my crappy Duet dryer.
Alittlebitnuts2day you are correct the bottom panel and thermistor are held on by 1/4 inch metal screws a small ratchet wrench is fine for the thermistor and a socket hand driver of the same size did the trick in about 20 minutes.
Hey, thanks for the comment. This actually really depends on the model of dryer you're working on. Some dryers will need the complete disassembly.
It would be a good idea to replace the thermistor. Also check the control board for cracked solder joints. If you find a loose or cracked solder joint it can be re-soldered. Also a loose wire either in the breaker box or the main terminal block may be getting hot and losing connection.
dfish7006 IS RIGHT. DON'T TAKE IT APART FIRST. First check to see if you can just remove the lower kick panel and reach the Thermistor. I have a Whilpool Duet and after removing the kick panel with two screws it was right there as easy as could be (used a little mini-ratchet to get the thermistors two screws off. In my case, taking the whole dryer apart to change the Thermistor would have been like pulling the transmission in a car to change the PCV valve.
Glad we could help! For future reference we also sell the parts on our website. There's a link directly to this part in the description of the video.
Thanks for the comment, we appreciate it. The thermistor could be causing this fault. You can test it for continuity using a multimeter. If the thermistor appears to be working I would suggest going to our website and using our repair help section. Hope this helps, let me know if I can do anything else.
Great helpful video! Solved my problem. Dryer up and running again. The original part #3976615 has been replaced by the part #8577274 and was available locally. Thanks!
Best hands on help ever !
Thank you!
We would advise you to use the repair help section of our website (link in the description. You can input your model number and get model and part specific troubleshooting help. I hope it goes smoothly for you!
Explain why would we need to change out thermister.!
this procedure is about 10X more difficult than it needs to be. This process is accurate for many SAMSUNG or LG dryers, but Whirlpool/Kenmore were smarter, and made a lower access panel. Take out 2 screws on that panel, it drops right off. Remove screws on the black blower plenum, and the clip, pop it off, and THERE is the thermistor.
Its a little harder to get out- you'll need a wrench instead of a driver, but it comes with out. The screws are very short.
The thermistor is accessioble without removing the panel, cover, bulkhead, or drum.
This dryer has a better designm at least in this respect, to the LG and SAMSUNGS.
You can test a thermistor for continuity just like you would any other electrical component. You can use our "Dryer Thermal Fuse Test" video as a guide, which you should be able to find by searching our channel page.
Hi again and thanks for the speedy reply on my question. To refresh, my dryer is a Whirlpool Duet Model# GEW9200LW1 and is on high heat all the time whether it's on high, low or air dry only. I have tested the Thermistor wire off with an ohm meter and have a reading of 11.5k. I also tested the thermostat and thermal fuse both of which are mounted on the heating element enclosure and have continuity with the wires off. I also have continuity on the heating element with the wires off. I tested the element lugs each individually to the enclosure to see if it was grounded out and it is not.I would greatly appreciate any more help you can give and point me toward any more components to check as this can really be a safety hazard if not monitored while in use. Thank you.
+Ed Carnelli Sounds like the heat relay on the main control board is bad, shorted closed all the time but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt meter and the wiring diagram from the dryer.
+RepairClinic.com According to the tech sheet in the dryer "Heater Test" "heat will not shut off" Measure the resistance between p2-5 and p2-6. If 6-7k ohms are measured replace the machine control electronics. If resistance is much greater that 7k replace the thermistor.I tested and retested between the 2 pins and get infinity.
Thanks for the video. I have a gas dryer that runs but it won't light up to start heating up the dryer. The thermistor is what you go to first usually I'm guessing. I tested it and there's no continuity. Do you typically replace the thermal fuse at the same time?
I'm getting error F31 on my Kenmore Elite He5 Electric Dryer. I was told it by Sears rep it's probably the thermistor. I replaced the thermistor and still have the same issue. Board powers up, select cycle, hit Start and it pauses for about 2 seconds, then I hear a faint click near the left inside of control panel.
BIG TIP RESTATED: on my model, I can reach the thermistor buy just removing the bottom/front panel. No need to disassemble down to the drum.
Just remove the lower front panel. no need to remove anything else on the Kenmore Elite.
How did you know the thermistor was bad? Did you do you test it first before deciding to replace it?
Technically a thermistor should have more than just continuity as well. It has certain resistances expected for each actual temperature. I think these ones range from 10K Ohms (max) down... The hotter the unit gets the lower the resistance goes, but the service manual specifies exactly what temperature should yield what resistance. I tested mine and it seems fine, but I'm going to replace it anyway just in case. It's a cheap fix.
Do you have to do this when your dryer won't turn on? I am having problems with my Frigidaire FASE7073LA0 that is not turning on.
can this be bypassed by jumping the 2 wires to see if this is really the problem?
WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY TO HIGH OR TO LOW OF A READING ON THE MULTI METER?
This will be a nightmare to do on site. I hope the comment below is correct and that I can remove a bottom panel. It's crazy that I'd have to completely disassemble this machine to replace a thermal fuse.
Hello Folks, thanks for the great video, however my problem may be a bit different. The Dryer (Whirlpool Duet) lights up like everything is fine when you set the dryers timer, but once I start the machine it beeps once and then displays PF, in the display screen. There is no heat and the tumbler does not move/rotate. Any advice would be appreciated. - Cheers Mike G.
Hello, would a bad thermistor keep a dryer from starting to spin, but power ok?
I'm getting PF on mine after running for a bit, and I've tested the thermistor and it appears to measure within spec (9K Ohms at room temperature, and down to 1.5K Ohms under a heat gun). It's intermittent but pretty regular. Do you think it's worth giving the thermistor a swap? It's really a joke to get at it on mine, just the bottom panel.
I'm not sure that's the problem on mine as I'm not getting an error message. the display lights up and when I press the start button, it makes the sound like its working, but the motor doesn't start - the dryer just doesn't do anything, except for the display which is normal. Any ideas?
My dryer is leaving cloths wet or keeps running when it is dry. Could it be the thermistor?
I have the same exact dryer. Is it possible to not have to dissemble the whole dryer in order to get to the thermistor?
Nicole Mcgee This is the procedure we recommend for this particular model. Bear in mind that some models look very similar but repair procedures vary greatly. For more accurate repair help, enter your model number in our website's repair help system: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
I have a Whirlpool Duet model# GEW9200LW1. The dryer heats up but seems to be on high temp all the time even on low or the air only setting. Would the Thermistor be the culprit? Thanks for any help you can offer.
+Ed Carnelli The thermistor could be defective and cause the dryer to run at an improper temperature.
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Help.. i have a 3 year old whirlpool elite dryer.. keep blowing the breakers even when not in use. .. so I unplugged if and the breakers where easy reset... i open up the back of the dryer and put a multimeter on all three of the thing amagigy switched and they show the r good... now what do I do.????? Could the breaker be broken how do I check those ???😯
If the breakers are staying on when the dryer is unplugged, the breakers are probably OK. You most likely have a short in the dryer; either an element or wire is broken and touching the frame somewhere. This is sometimes hard to find. Try disassembling the unit and looking at the wires to determine if they are OK. Then either take the heating element out and look at it or test it with a meter to see if it is shorted to ground.
Hoping you can help me out! I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 gas dryer. Still heating great, but during the cycle it simply stops spinning intermittently. It's totally random and after 2-5 minutes of resting, the cycle resumes without any intervention. 10 minutes later (approximately as this is random) it takes a break again.... on and on we go no matter what heating cycle setting is selected. The countdown timer continues to work throughout this process. Is it trying to prevent itself from overheating? I replaced the thermistor as well as the thermal fuse yesterday with parts from you in hopes this would fix the problem - but the problem still exists.... any thoughts?
Casey White Our guess would be that the motor is cutting out and coming back on after it cools off. The motor has a thermal cutoff in it that cuts the motor off if it starts to overheat. If this is the problem you will need to replace the motor.
***** Thanks for the response! I really appreciate it.
Casey White Did that work for you? I'm having the same issue as well. I replaced the thermistor but I'm still not getting any readings from my ohms meter.
Maybe i can get a little advice.. I got a Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer that has recently quit working... It has no power what so ever to the digital control board or anything.. It was working great the day before, now nothing. The outlets been tested and is reading fine as well. Any idea of what i should be looking for? Part # 3976615 the therm-o-disc seems to be blown from the fiddling I've done so far but I'm thinking there's got to be another issue for no power at all to the digital control board? Any advice is appreciated, Thanks.
B Wilson Please note that the part you referenced (3976615) has been replaced with part number 8577274. As the temperature changes, the resistance also changes. These thermistors are not known to fail very often and can be checked with an Ohm meter. The thermal fuse that is usually located next to the thermistor is more likely to have failed. It should show a closed circuit and will open if the temperature reaches too high of a temperature in the blower housing. A plugged vent or lint screen can cause the dryer to overheat and trip the thermal fuse. If you find that this checks OK, we recommend that you confirm that you have 220 volts at the plug and the connections from the power cord to the dryer are tight and not burnt. Make sure you unplug the cord when checking the connections.
***** Thanks for the response guys. The thermal fuse is reading good but thermistor is blown.. also the outlet reads 220 that was confirmed by an electrician about a week ago. Still I think I should have power to the digital control board even with the thermistor blown right? I mean it doesn't light up or nothing.. Im starting to think the board is fried too. Thanks again
B Wilson We do not believe there are any other fuses or thermal cutouts that would keep the control board from working. We recommend that you locate the wiring diagram in the unit to confirm this. If the thermal fuse is working well and the control will not light up, there is a good chance the control board is bad. A bad thermistor will not keep the control from working but a bad control could have damaged the thermistor.
all you have to take off is the bottom cover.
fixed the thermistor still getting the e1
+Robert Wingo The control board may be defective if you are still getting the error. www.repairclinic.com?TLSID=1773
Check ALL your thermostats on the heater - high-limit cut off and high-limit thermostat. Also the fuse.
HELP PLEASE!! I replace the thermistor and turned on the machine. It stopped within 5 minutes and then stopped and displayed E2. What is wrong?? Please help. Without dryer and running out of clean clothes!! The model I have is the Kenmore Elite HE3.. The part # I replaced is: 8577274. The Ohm meter reads 0
+SNFCottageArtisanSoaps Gail The main control board may be defective if replacing the thermistor did not do the trick.
+RepairClinic.com Thank you for your reply. What should the themistor read on the ohm meter? We are reading 12.8 on the ohm meter. Thanks!
I got kenmore elite washer, it got 3 beeps when I press start, but when I press again it's fine, wash seems fine...what's wrong is it themistor?
hey i have a kenmore he3 dryer and had code f01 and i replaced the main circuit board and now the dryer starts for 60 second and then code f22 comes on. this code never came on before anybody have an idea what it is ? thanks
Gemballa GT I get code f01 and looked it up and all I can find is to replace this part in the video.
MY THERMISTOR HAS A READING OF 9.70 IS THIS TO LOW?
Nope. Around 10kat room temperature is correct
You have to take the whole frekin dryer apart to change a two wire component, holy shit !
Dont have to remove the drum on my model, so if the stupid thermo disk doesnt fix it off to the junk yard
On some similar, WHIRLPOOL (Maytag, Kenmore, Admiral, KitchenAid, Amana, Samsung and LG), and MANY others, YES. MOST don't have a lower access panel anymore. Same with later model washers. Manufacturers want you to buy new appliances every 5-10 year (avg life expectancy 8 years). Never mind washers, dryers, dishwashers, ranges are selling for $800-1000 and Refrigerators #4k-9k. Refrigerators are failing across brands in 3-5 years with new and REQUIRED 230 volt DC compressors with invertors to adjust speed and eliminate possibly of a relay switch igniting the BUTANE now used as refrigerant WORLDWIDE. DRYERS can last virtually forever with proper maintenance and occasional simple repairs. They haven't changed much in 70 years!
I would never buy this model dryer. Too much work for a fuse or thermostat. Thanks
Of I have work on the engine of a car... Let me take apart the trunk first... WTF???
They need to justify for the money they charge.
I charge $72/hr ($1.20/minute) Other trades (electrician, HVAC, plumber, auto mechanic) charge $99 or more. So how is that unjustifiable when they bug sprayer charged $100 for 5 minutes to spray a wasp nest? We have to pay for constant training to keep up, require licenses we pay for (Appliance restricted electrician and plumbing license to install a dishwasher and HVAC Contractor and Federal and State refrigerant handling licenses. Name another trade requiring all those licenses! And we surely can't help manufacturers intentionally keep making appliances more time consuming to Service. MOST are over-engineered - partly to meet ever increasing demands by EPA and WHO to decrease energy and water usage abd less pollution. Be glad you don't have ductless dryers that take 2 hours to dry a load like Europeans are REQUIRED to.
ANYONE PLEASE RESPOND TO MY PREVIOUS THREE QUESTIONS
do not have 5 dollars.
This video stinks as it doesn't say how to test thermistor which should test at about 10k ohms at room temperature cif I recall correctly.
Got a Kenmore elite code f22 flashing. Indicates bad thermistor. But if take the wires off of the thermistor and use a jump bypass it still throwing a f22 code what else could it be