Unfortunately the other files corrupted when transferring from my camera… I lost everything else for this build. I’ve often debated taking this video down, but I feel it’s still the best, in-depth visual aid for at least theirs part of the process. This bike was sold years ago. Should another make it’s way into my garage, I may start the project over!
If you're thinking about doing this to your airbox, think again. By removing the upper portion of the box, you are also removing that top tab on the frame that supports a portion of the weight of the box so now the weight will be resting on the carb itself and the clamp holding to the intake. Probably not really a big deal, but not designed for that clamp to support more weight either. If you want the airbox opened more, all you need is to pry the rubber tube out of the top rear of the airbox with a flat screw driver. You can see right down into the filter and the air will now flow freely around the filter letting it breath! (and you will still have the upper support tab!)
While you are correct and I do understand the logic but a big reason people do this is also to gain much easier access to the carb for repeated fine tuning while also uncorking the bottle neck at the same time. It sucks to jet, put it all back together, test, take apart, re-jet, put together and so on. Then have to do that all again when adjusting the needle. You have to pull the seats, loosen choke, pull and cap the return, disconnect guage cluster, and pull the tank before you can begin to remove the airbox to access the carb. With this mod you can just pull the airbox with everything else still intact and reach the carb. I mean you may get lucky and get it suitably tuned on the first shot. You may know all this but I wanted to explain in case you weren't aware. It seems that many of the VTX forum people haven't had any issues over all these years from removing that upper mounting tab. Mine is apart now in the garage waiting for my Factory Pro jet kit to get here.
Joshua , when you do the pair valve mod you need to plug the air filter , witch tube > can you show that on a picture? any way i can find the video of the pair valve
Drilled the factory baffles. Pipes don’t affect your carb, just the incoming air. I did the Scar mod to the carb... I’d love to post that video, but most of the ones I did were corrupted by the app I was using. There are a number of videos and write ups about doing that... it’s very simple!
Yes!! I did the pair valve delete, scar mod, air box decap, and I drilled the baffles on the stock pipes all in the same project. Unfortunately the rest of my video files corrupted in editing and I couldn’t recover it. The 1300 is no hot rod, and it will never be... but all of this together gave me a noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement. The biggest difference was in throttle response, much much crisper!
Sure does! Decapping the air box eliminates a huge restriction. You could buy an aftermarket filter, but I rather appreciate the stock design. Along with a few other tweaks and adjustments... you get a bit better low end power and throttle response. Just remember, these aren’t big powerhouses... regardless what you do to them. There is a noticeable difference, but not enough your riding buddies will notice. Getting more air in, requires more fuel... you may see a drop in mileage. I average 35-40mpg... as long as I don’t ride like a fool.
Yes. You need to jet, re-jet, or do the SCAR mod like I did... If you already have jets, you may be able to adjust them and the mixture screw to get it to balance out. Not sure what you mean by a moisture wicking area? I suppose it is possible to take in a little rain water by doing this mod... that’s one of the reasons I wanted to keep everything protected and under the tank. I’ve ridden in the rain numerous times (not that we get much in the desert) without any problems. If you look at the variety of aftermarket air cleaners available, most of them have completely exposed filter elements. I feel like that is far riskier than what Ive done here!
@@joshuasipes7655 not criticizing , asking questions to learn , seems the factory airbox reroutes the air all over the place in that chamber , maybe , wicking out water vapors , then draining out somewhere lower on the factory airbox ? thanks for putting up your video
Do not do this.. I am replacing a customer's airbox because they did this. Millions of dollars of research and engineering go into making the engine run with best performance. Cutting your airbox appart will make your bike run like shit.
Hey I sure hope he goes a half-inch or so above the line he made!
I don't see any other videos from you pertaining to vtx
Unfortunately the other files corrupted when transferring from my camera… I lost everything else for this build. I’ve often debated taking this video down, but I feel it’s still the best, in-depth visual aid for at least theirs part of the process. This bike was sold years ago. Should another make it’s way into my garage, I may start the project over!
If you're thinking about doing this to your airbox, think again. By removing the upper portion of the box, you are also removing that top tab on the frame that supports a portion of the weight of the box so now the weight will be resting on the carb itself and the clamp holding to the intake. Probably not really a big deal, but not designed for that clamp to support more weight either. If you want the airbox opened more, all you need is to pry the rubber tube out of the top rear of the airbox with a flat screw driver. You can see right down into the filter and the air will now flow freely around the filter letting it breath! (and you will still have the upper support tab!)
You do your thing my friend… I won’t complain about what you do with your bike. 🤷♂️
While you are correct and I do understand the logic but a big reason people do this is also to gain much easier access to the carb for repeated fine tuning while also uncorking the bottle neck at the same time. It sucks to jet, put it all back together, test, take apart, re-jet, put together and so on. Then have to do that all again when adjusting the needle. You have to pull the seats, loosen choke, pull and cap the return, disconnect guage cluster, and pull the tank before you can begin to remove the airbox to access the carb. With this mod you can just pull the airbox with everything else still intact and reach the carb. I mean you may get lucky and get it suitably tuned on the first shot. You may know all this but I wanted to explain in case you weren't aware. It seems that many of the VTX forum people haven't had any issues over all these years from removing that upper mounting tab. Mine is apart now in the garage waiting for my Factory Pro jet kit to get here.
Joshua , when you do the pair valve mod you need to plug the air filter , witch tube > can you show that on a picture? any way i can find the video of the pair valve
did you do the pair valve mod?
Do you have pipes? If so, how is your carburetor setup?Thanks.
Drilled the factory baffles. Pipes don’t affect your carb, just the incoming air. I did the Scar mod to the carb... I’d love to post that video, but most of the ones I did were corrupted by the app I was using. There are a number of videos and write ups about doing that... it’s very simple!
Have u done the pair valve mod? And how does your bike run now?
So, Did we see any performance gains from doing this?
Yes!! I did the pair valve delete, scar mod, air box decap, and I drilled the baffles on the stock pipes all in the same project. Unfortunately the rest of my video files corrupted in editing and I couldn’t recover it. The 1300 is no hot rod, and it will never be... but all of this together gave me a noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement. The biggest difference was in throttle response, much much crisper!
How’s your mpg?
curious , why would you do this ?..better air intake /...did you notice any performance value ? thanks
Sure does! Decapping the air box eliminates a huge restriction. You could buy an aftermarket filter, but I rather appreciate the stock design. Along with a few other tweaks and adjustments... you get a bit better low end power and throttle response. Just remember, these aren’t big powerhouses... regardless what you do to them. There is a noticeable difference, but not enough your riding buddies will notice. Getting more air in, requires more fuel... you may see a drop in mileage. I average 35-40mpg... as long as I don’t ride like a fool.
@@joshuasipes7655 did it mess with gas air mixture ?
@@joshuasipes7655 i just wondered it thats a moisture wicking area ?
Yes. You need to jet, re-jet, or do the SCAR mod like I did... If you already have jets, you may be able to adjust them and the mixture screw to get it to balance out.
Not sure what you mean by a moisture wicking area? I suppose it is possible to take in a little rain water by doing this mod... that’s one of the reasons I wanted to keep everything protected and under the tank. I’ve ridden in the rain numerous times (not that we get much in the desert) without any problems. If you look at the variety of aftermarket air cleaners available, most of them have completely exposed filter elements. I feel like that is far riskier than what Ive done here!
@@joshuasipes7655 not criticizing , asking questions to learn , seems the factory airbox reroutes the air all over the place in that chamber , maybe , wicking out water vapors , then draining out somewhere lower on the factory airbox ? thanks for putting up your video
Do not do this.. I am replacing a customer's airbox because they did this. Millions of dollars of research and engineering go into making the engine run with best performance. Cutting your airbox appart will make your bike run like shit.
Thanks for the input, but my bike, along with hundreds of thousands of others run great with all sorts of aftermarket modifications.
Lol
I recommend not doing this mod. I think I super killed my gas mileage. Wish I could go back.
you can for 40 dollars worth of new airbox.