Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- You can get the new solenoid version Here-
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This is the new Integrated Wheel Ends needed for the Repair (replace both)-
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In this video I show you how to diagnose the most problem prone part of the Ford IWE system, the vacuum system. No special tools required.
I can't express how much frustration these videos alleviate. Thank you so much!
A
I had the same issue with my 2013 Ford Expedition 4x4. The solenoid was fine but what I found was the vacuum lines run from the engine compartment across the front cross member of the frame. I had run into someone's moving box on the freeway and the hose was split. I used electrical tape to tape it back together and the problem went away. It is a temporary fix but t worked. Not a good place to run those lines but glad it is working again! Thanks for the help.
Finally got around to using the no tool technique you show us here to diagnose a bad solenoid. Excellent tip. Thanks.
$35 at Advance and 20 minutes to install. Nearly all of that time is wrenching 1/16 of a turn at a time due to the lack of space to turn a wrench. That time could be relieved using a socket with a universal and an extension.
Nearly immediately after getting 4 high back, I strapped 3 kids in the truck and headed for the woods!
Great video. Simply explained. No extra yapping. Just straight to the point. Very appreciated.
Gotta say, we need more mechanics like this. This type is very rare and is getting rarer every day. Just because you have a nice big shiny tool box don't mean squat.
Your video helped me a bunch. Your video led me to find disconnected vacuum line underneath the motor. Coupler had come apart. Thanks again. Love your channel. 08 f150 xl 4x4 2" lift one owner
Put the new solenoid with a rain hood on my 2004 f150 and my 4 wheel drive worked again. So glad I found your channel. wasn't looking forward to finding time to tear the wheels off and replace hub assemblies.
I have the same truck as you .I had vacuum up top by the solenoid but not by the wheel .
I haven’t changed the solenoid yet but will do soon.
I’m assuming I have exact same problem .
Only one question for you.Was your 4 by 4 light coming on on the dash because mine isn’t.
@Caw2170 I can't recall being that it was 6 years ago, but the new design solenoid wasn't expensive and is truly plug and play.
Yea ok thanks for responding.I feel like this is my problem.My buddy replace his years ago and it was only around 10 .It wasn’t from the dealer though .
I haven't had this problem, at least not yet knock on wood but your video is awesome as always. You explain things thoroughly and in a way everyone can understand showing as much details as possible. As I stated before, I haven't had any problems with this but if I ever do I know where to go. You have helped me with other things and I've learned a lot as well as saving some money. You are an invaluable source of information. I know I speak for everyone else when I say I am extremely grateful for everything you do Brian, thanks.
This video gave me the knowledge to diagnose my problem. Found two vacuum leaks one hole one broken line. One side had dirt in the line I had to clean out.
Dear Makuloco. I've been a huge fan of your videos for several years and your sage wisdom is souly responsible for keeping my beloved 97 expedition running all these years. But my 4x4 has been non functional for several years. Did the obligatory replacement of the t case motor and vacume checks to no avail. She's 2wd awd 4h 4L. Throw the switch to awd it flashes continually 4h 4l no response. No relay clicks either. Fuse 23 is fresh. Cracked open the transfer case relay under the dash and it ran power to the relay on the board and clicks just fine. Now at a loss. Sage wisdom would be graciously appreciated. Best -mad max
Thanks for posting. This helped me test the vacuum on my 2013 f150!
I've been having 4x4 engagement/disengagement issues on my 2011 EcoBoost, and noticed that it sometimes happens more frequently if the engine isn't fully warmed up. I decided to check out the vacuum solenoid after watching Makuloco's other video on the vacuum hub replacement for '04-'14 F150s, and found that the smaller hose had actually been cracked in half inside the protective sheathing. I tried pulling its connector off the solenoid, but more of the tubing cracked as it was so brittle. Maybe the cracked hose was the source of my problem. Bad choice of material.
Good info. Add to this: if the vacuum tests pan out and the solenoid is bad. Still check the actuators. What occurred in my truck was the solenoid must have gone bad. Vacuum wasn't enough to fully disengage the actuator. Hence, the 1/2 locked in actuator on passenger side ground off the 1st 3-4mm of teeth on the hub assembly. The actuator teeth actually remained mostly intact.
Thanks to FordTechMakuloko for this video. This helped me diagnose my issue quickly.
I replaced both front wheel hubs on my friends 2008 Expedition, thinking that was the noise.
After watching your videos I think I know what the noise is now.
Thanks a lot.
Big help and now I understand how the 4 wheel drive works on late model fords.
Did this fix the problem for his expedition?
@@boostedbadboyzx12r31 yes
Thanks for this video! I used this and was able to diagnose my problem to the solenoid. Replaced it for $30 and no IWE noise anymore! You saved me serious time and money! Thanks man!
What kind of noise?
Was it possible a grind kinda where it tried to engage that’s what mine is doing 😢
Thank you for the solenoid and vacuum information. Nothing in the book I have about it. I drove home in a snow storm in 4wd and the front end stayed in 4wd even though it went to 2wd. It was below zero outside. As soon as it got above freezing it fixed itself. Thank heavens. Thanks again.
Thank you for explaining what each different test was testing, made my intermittent 4x4 diag go much smoother.
Dude do you have a patreon because this video has saved me from rebuilding my entire front end. If I had done that my problems would have still existed! Thank you!
Great video! I was getting an intermittent grinding noise from the hubs, which I figured was a vacuum failure in the IWE system. Your video was a great way to diagnose my problem. I thought I'd be replacing the solenoid and it turned out I'd worn a hole through a pinched vacuum line. $1.50 at the pick and pull and I'm back in business.
Where was the hole? Naturally occurred?
I have vaccum all the time after reading the through of operation on this system it tells me its my solenoid. I have checked fuses and I have power there I haven't had a chance to check voltage on the connector or continuity on the solenoid yet but seeing that I have vacuum I feel I am on the right track thanks for your video .
Thank you for teaching me how to troubleshoot and fix my 4wd. Saved me a lot of time and money! I appreciate it very much
So good to have procedures for testing without pro tools!!!
This video was great - it did NOT show me what my problem was --- BUT by troubleshooting the way it was explained - I found my issue - the vacuum line was cut after the T -- thanks again you saved me down time on my truck and maybe a pricy repair before the true issue was located.
Thanks for the video. I was able to figure out that I had a bed solenoid. It was replaced and now the 4x4 is working correctly.
+Steve Caruso Nice!
What a Trainer! Awesomly simple directions !!! Thank YOU!
Lovely. I shall try these tricks tomorrow. It's snowed hard today...bad time to find out my 4x4 doesn't work. I'll update you tomorrow. **it's tomorrow- I had vacuum from the solenoid both in 2WHDR and 4WHDR and no lights on the instrument panel--m'thinks it's both, a faulty solenoid and a transfer case shift motor**
Very good video. I feel confident to troubleshoot this issue myself. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 and the hubs seem to lock intermittently. For example the last time was I stopped to get gas in 2WD and when I started up again the hubs locked or rather failed to unlock. This was a few months ago and has not done it again. It's happened several times though over the past few years. Been meaning to take into the dealer but it's so random I just have not done it. The first few times it happened I didn't realize what was going on. The steering was difficult and when I stopped the front wheels were to hot to touch. So this video explains some things I wasn't aware of. Thanks
by far the best source on UA-cam, always on point. Thank you
Om Lord I watched this video and another you posted on the F150 forum. I was sure it was my passenger side having an issue and I used this video and the other one to find and follow all my lines and the check valves . I found somehow that the drivers side lines came off the drivers hub. I thank God for you and your videos.
Yeah man...Sure enough my solenoid was shot...didn't even know it until I saw this video....
Ordered the part and temporarily direct-connected the line to free the axles for the first time in God knows how long...
Thanks brother...
Thanks for the video!
My 2007 f150 4 wheel wouldnt engage. I Checked the vacuum solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i just replaced it.
But... It did not work. Truck had no error code.
So when i would put the truck in 4, the vacuum from the top port would not stop.
So the tranfer case switch must have to be working to ground out the solenoid for it to work.
I replaced the transfer case switch ($210). And that fixed the 4 wheel drive.
Excellent video. Thanks! With my 2012 F-150, with the engine running and in 2wd, the passenger side CV shaft spins independent of the tire, but the driver side CV shaft remains engaged with the tire even when the engine is running and the switch is in 2wd. I think I have a problem inside the hub. It even makes a grinding noise occasionally...
jonbar87 That grinding is your actuator, had it happen.
bigrig82 did you have to replace the actuator as well?
I remove the vacuum line on a solenoid and have very little suction. Does anybody know if it's supposed to be very strong or just barely sucking?
My 2010 F150, 4.6 2-valve, was making a front end grinding noise when the engine was under load going uphill on the interstate. Kill the cruise control, or foot off the gas, the noise immediately stopped. After watching this video and others, I replaced the IWE check valve. Less than $15 and one minute later, the issue is resolved.
2005 F150. Symptoms: Green indicator light shows 4WDH is on when selected, but the front wheels would not turn. This video solved the problem. Front wheel vacuum via VACUUM SOLENOID (mounted on passenger side firewall behind battery) should pass vacuum through the solenoid full time when 2WD is selected. In 2WD the solenoid is NOT energized, allowing vacuum to pass thru solenoid. When 4WD is selected, the vacuum solenoid energizes thereby turning the vacuum to the front wheels OFF. This in turn allows the springs to engage the wheel hubs. Which means: Vacuum PRESENT at wheels, 4WD OFF, Vacuum NOT PRESENT at wheels, 4WD ON. This video makes the fix and the logical troubleshooting elementary. I found that the VACUUM SOLENOID had been water damaged, frozen and cracked. Replacement part cost $25 and I am back on the road.
Love your videos
Great videos! Thank you for taking the time and effort to post them. I'm trying to diagnose a problem and found myself here. I have a 2004 F150 FX4 with about 130,000 miles. Two weeks ago the truck started making a rythmic grinding/thumping sound only when turning right. The speed of the sound corresponded to the speed of the wheels. It was suggested that the CV half shaft was bad so that's what I went with. Once disassembled, the original shaft/CV joints felt fine. I installed the new one anyway, in the hopes that the problem was happening under load. No luck. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the coil springs on both sides (the strut springs) were snapped. I didn't think this would be the direct cause of my issue and had to keep driving the vehicle for another week. The problem (when making rights) is getting worse and the last time I drove it, I also had the ice in a blender sound. I know I have to replace the struts so I started the disassembly process hoping to discover the source of my right turn noise. I've only looked on the drivers side so far but uUnfortunately, the hub/bearings/iwe all "look" fine. Compressing the actuator with my hand did not result in a stream of water coming out and it held a vacuum. I don't see any evidence of metal on metal in the wheel at all. I'm worried that there is something going on inside the transfer case. there is a slight amount of play at the coupling to the half shaft, but I have no idea what is considered normal. I'm also hoping that the broken springs just had things so far out of place that fixing those will put everything else back on track. any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. thanks again!!
update: Dug into the passenger side wheel and found that the hub was totally shot. I'm really surprised I was hearing this on the left side when turning right, but sounds travel through the axle I guess. I'm thinking this solves my problem of noise when turning, but I suspect the "ice in a blender" sound could be early signs of actuator failure. While everything is apart I'm just going to replace the actuators and solenoid too. Thanks again for the great videos!
@@bobbeird6584You’re the only one who had the same symptoms when turning right .My 04 only does it from stop and only turning right .
My upper ball joint is done so I’m not sure if that’s what it could be .
Also I have 130 thou.😂
I had no vacuum at my solenoid the check valve on the vacuum line was packed with rust from the solenoid I bypassed it as you did in the video I now have unlocked iwes I guess I’m long over due on replacing the solenoid
Thanks man your video helped me fix my truck. Without having to take it to the shop.
Once you understand it, it's really not a complicated system. Actually easy to diagnose. You can also bypass the system by capping the vacuum lines so that you can drive the vehicle to get repaired.
Thank you sooooo much ! I found out I had a bad solenoid, replaced it, all good. One thing though...even though the actuators are disengaged now, I'm still getting the whinning "bad bearing" noise. I have no play in the wheel when rocking top and bottom of tire. Not sure where to go from here. Sound coming from driver floor panel like it's still at front left tire or front diff.
+BarrelOfRum1 the iwes get damages from the failed solenoids, all three should be replaced together.
oh okay, I figured that, just wanted to know before I did it. Thank you again for the video ! This was driving me nuts !
As always an awesome video with simple clear instructions! This helped alot, but, my problem was slightly different. My 2006 F150 (manual 4wd shift) started to try to shift into 4wl while driving at highway speed, or accelerating. After testing everything based on your video (and beating my head against the truck when it all checked out) I decided to take it a step further. I assumed that vacuum pressure is reduced when accelerating or maintaining highway speed which would mean that I was losing vacuum somewhere in the system when that happened. So I replaced the vacuum check valve in the line near the solenoid. What do ya know! It actually fixed my problem! Thanks as always for the amazing videos and info.
Thanks for the great video! This helped me troubleshoot & fix my problem in no time.
Make sure to check opposite side for a broken hose. Mine was broke in half right behind the tire. 2 small hose connectors for 5 bucks fixed it. Chased it for months. Was checking the vac suction at the iwe and found it.
Do this before buying anything else. For sure is a great way to test whats wrong
Thank you, thank you, thank you, this is exactly what I needed you rock
Man thank you, you're a lifesave
Hey man I love the video the best one on UA-cam btw I did your test procedures and I dont have vacuum from the top of the solenoid when I put just the fat bottom hose on the solenoid but I have vacuum to both front wheel hubs. The passenger side spins free in 2wd and the driver spins but turns the axle shaft. I'm thinking I have a faulty wheel end actuator and possibly a bad solenoid but it's the same style solenoid as the one in the video with the hood so I'm guessing it has been replaced btw my f150 is an 08 xlt. Thank you for this video and any extra help from here you can give me
I have this problem now and have had it for a few weeks, thankfully I can now diagnose what the problem is.
My main question is would this have done any damage to the front diff or the transfer case? They both still do have fluid in them, but I wanted to be sure
Thanks so much, I noticed my 08 steering was harder than usual and a humming sound for a while, while repairing flange bolt on my exhaust I lean on the front tire and noticed turned the axels and 4x4 driveshaft... I thought 💭 huh is this right, I feel I’ve been driving in 4x4 for months now..
Great video. My 4x4 will not engage (no lights or sound indicators of engagement). I followed all your steps, checked all the fuses, and replaced the 2 relays. I put on a new vacuum solenoid and new transfer case motor. I can engage the transfer case by hand (with TC motor removed). Is there a way to check power from the selector switch? The only odd part is the TC motor seems to be magnetized when I tapped on it. Am I missing something? Keep up the great videos - beats my many years of interpreting manuals.
I’m having trouble with my 03 expedition 4x4 not working doesn’t even light up on the dash but I think I hear my hub clicking like it wants to kick in and ideas on what I should do first or what it may be. Thanks for your help and videos
Sounds like it could be the transfer case motor
thanks for the vid, you comment about the 09-10 being on the other side , making the noise more dominate on the driver side, I had to hook up air compressor at low psi to find a bad part in the tubing which I fixed with small engine fuerl line temporarly
So I did all the checks and my vacuum lines are getting vacuum and the solenoid seems to be working correctly however I had to replace both the 4wd actuators. One was replaced about a year or two ago for broken mounting ears and I didn’t see that the other side was broken as the truck sat for some time and was a gift to me by my father in law. So I went ahead and replaced the drivers one a few weeks ago along with a new wheel hub and now the 4wd actuator grinds and I took it apart again and it’s grinding down the teeth almost like it’s not fully disengaging. Could this mean I need new vacuum lines or check valves ? I had vacuum at that wheel but it seemed less than the passenger side and the line did get a tear in it that had since been fixed. Great video a lot of straight forward info that helped a lot I’m always looking up your f150 videos for the best info. Thanks
Thanks for this video. I'm currently purchasing a 2004 f150 lariat super crew and the front left wheel has been making this sound. Isn't ver loud going forward but it gets very loud like in video when in reverse. Doesn't make the sound in 4w mode. So this must be the issue. Glad to kbow ts not a serious deal breaking problem . Thanks again for video
Aloha Thank you for the amazing videos! I've Learned so much. Got a question for you. Have you ever come across a f150 4wd that one side will disengage but the other will not? I've replace hubs, actuators, vacuum hoses, solenoid and still the driver side will not disengage from 4wd so I'm having to drive with the solenoid caped to let both wheels spin with the transfer case off. otherwise when I drive the passenger side tire vibrates trying to catch up to the driver side. then i put it in 4wd and the vibration goes away, due to both wheels moving at the same rate while the 4wd is on.. I'm stumped... I've gone as far as ordering new cv axles incase perhaps something is happening there.. any thoughts? Mahalo for any help.
Makuloco Sir! I really appreciate your time and effort and I know all others do to. My 2005 wouldn't go into 4x4 last winter. I thought it was vacuum, did all the tests, cleaned things up, and it worked great at sea level. However, we went Christmas tree hunting yesterday at 6000 ft. It wouldn't work again. I just pulled the lines and thereby manually put it into 4wd high. However, I want this to work correctly. After it sat for a bit, the 4x4 on the dash clicked on....so my theory is this and I need your advice: The solenoid froze on the drive up there (it was 29 degrees outside). Then, after it sat for a while, the heat of the motor heated the engine compartment up and thawed the solenoid and then it clicked over. Does that sound about right? And if so, can you tell me how to order that specific solenoid or give me a part number if you know it?
Thanks again. Pete
These videos are simply amazing and to the point. Thanks!
I have a 2011 EcoBoost and there's a grinding noise( drivers front) that happens for a moment when I start going forward in 4x4. I was thinking drivers front 4x4 actuator?? Btw thanks for sharing all your experience 👍
I have been tracking my issue down and finally got it resolved. I had one IWE not holding vacuum so first replaced that. I normally put the gauge directly on the IWE to see if it will hold vacuum. Then it was somewhat fixed but would just barely grind after a slightly longer period of time than before. Checked my lines and check valves and replaced a couple check valves. Still not fixed. Then I checked my reserviour behind the battery and it was starting to come apart on the bottom! I ended up using some permatex to reseal the reserviour halves back together and Its been holding proper vacuum. All is good now. Have you ever seen those come apart?
Yes we have seen this before.
Great video, thanks. I went through all checks, and it seams the left side iwe is failing. When in 4x4 and wheels up left side engages axel while turning wheel backwards, but not forward right away. Like a ratchet. Then will engage, is this a sign that it is about to fail.
Thanks again
My 2002 Ford don't have vacuum lines going to the Hub, so half of what you are doing in this video didn't help, but I fixed my 4x4 problem and I put its on UA-cam go to "Part 1 Ford Engagement fork" my fork pin was broke and the two plastic pads had worn off. Please check it out if your 4x4 won't engage. Thanks
Having this issue now. Truck started grinding out of nowhere I disconnect the solenoid and the grinding stops. Now that I seen ur video I’m going to try to diagnose the issue.
Thanks you so much. I just did the solenoid test. Going to go buy one now.
My 2006 f150 has this issue, I’ll check these areas thanks so much!
Will one actuator stop the system from engaging. And what else should I look in to if everything checks out fine from what you check in the video
Thank you still a very helpful video! I'm diagnosing my truck right now and I am getting no vaccum from the lower vaccum tube when the truck is running what should I do next?
great video, I followed your steps and ended up finding my driver side vacuum hose wasn't even connected to hub. but after connecting it with truck running and tire off ground I could spin the wheel in 2 and 4. what does that mean...
thanks your video is simple and accurate.
Got one for you 2008 f150 lever is in 2H and 4x4 low light is on truck is in 2H and when shift to 4x4 it works but the front axle doesn't disengage only transfer case
Man, you are the boss. This video helped me diagnose a bad solenoid without tools. Quick question. Is it safe for me to leave the top line connected directly to the vacuum line (bypass the solenoid) in order to drive my truck in 2WD while I wait for the solenoid to arrive? My vacuum hubs keep engaging while I drive and there's that humming/grinding sound. I doubled check and my solenoid is bad.
Yep go for it no prob
big fan of your videos as I own a 2006 5.4 3 valve. I just went up north ice fishing and I get on the ice and my 4x4 didn't work. when I got home I did all the trouble shooting everything checked out. I put it in 4x4 and it works again! my question is could it have frozen up? it was single digits and a 2.5 hour drive. I replaced the solenoid last year as the IWE"s were chattering. Thanks in advance and please keep posting you videos. Mike
I’ve had ice chunks stop me from being able to go in 4by 4
05 f150, only getting 5" vacuum to solenoid and can't hear any leaks. The truck run smooth and no CEL. I'm guessing it's the vacuum reservoir but I don't know what it looks like or it's location. I did find a possible Ford part number (19A566) but no picture. Can you please describe what I'm looking for so I can find it and check it before ordering one. Thanks for the very well done video.
Hi. Great video. Thank you.
I have a suspicion on some kind of a IWE system vacuum leak on my 2006 F150. It makes grinding sounds when driving uphill. I did all the testing steps following your video and my truck passed. Yayy? Nope... Do you have any suggestion on how to test "under load" condition? Pressing the throttle with jacked up front end doesn't do it.
Thank you for you video. That means, that the vacuum hub is in 4 whell possition when the engine is off ?
yes
I checked the vacuum connections at the wheels, one was pulled off and the nipples sticking out were encased in grease, about a grape sized glob of grease was stuck right over top of them, everything else was clean. any explanation for this? Lol
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 Super Crew 4x4 with 5.4 V-8. Experiencing a pulsating grinding noise from the right side front end while the vehicle is moving. The frequency of the grinding noise increases with speed. Occurs when going straight or when turning, slightly or hard, usually to the right. We have inspected the brakes pads, rotors, brake dust shield, CV joints / half shafts, differential lube level, front axle drive shaft and u-joints, other front-end suspension components and heat shield in and around the drive shaft. No issues found on any of these items. I am suspecting a faulty wheel bearing hub assembly. The noise is NOT a steady howling noise or a clicking noise from a partially engaged 4WD hub. Intermittent muffled grinding sound. The noise does not change when applying the brakes. The noise seems to be coming from the front right wheel area and can be felt when it occurs. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! G..
Great Video. Had to watch more than once to digest what is happening. My 06 will not engage at all. Went to the solenoid, pulled the lines and my vacuum was clogged with a fine tan colored powder. Cleaned it out till I had vacuum, Tested to see if the front wheels would engage. Did not work. Cleaned the powder out of the solenoid, put the system back together, nothin. Kinda concerned about this tan powder clogging the vacuum, any ideas there?
GREAT video by the way. The best I have seen. I have a 2005 f150 and the my problem is the light does come on but my wheel drive does not engage. Am I correct in assuming then that I have vacuum to the IWE's? This would mean my vacuum lines are all good. Is it possible that the vacuum solenoid gets stuck in the open position and never closes? I keep reading about cracks in these solenoids that would mean no vacuum.
Mike West Easy way to check disconnect the vac lines from the solenoid leave them off and now if the iwe and transfer case shift motor are working you will have 4wd.
That worked. Thanks
Hi Makuloco! Thanks for the video. I think I have isolated the problem to the transfercase motor harness. The conector has been corroded. How may I properly clear the terminal's pins? Thanks for your help
Same problem, the vacuum stuff all checks out but 4x4 won't engage. Think it's back with the transfer case. I guess that's a different diagnosis video.
Thank you for the video it's helped me in the past but I just recently had another problem I think is related to this . My truck has a loud vacuum leak sound underneath it ,but only when it's in gear ? It doesn't try to switch into 4x4 or anything while driving or make any grinding noises just a loud vacuum leak . Could it be a damaged line or would that try and engage it into 4x4 if there was one ?
is it possible for this to get bad enough that the actual CV shaft splines or bearing hub splines get damaged and need to be replaced as well as the IWE vac actuator? Mine has been bad for a while and I am just getting around to fixing it. Thanks
I have a 2001 Ford F-150. I put it in low 4wd and now It won't go back in 2wd. I appreciate your help.
If you have one of the issues happening that causes the problem, is it necessary to fix it? Will it hurt the hubs being locked in all the time if the transfer case is disengaged?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! i have an old F150 and have learned a lot from you! Good camera angles, audio and content! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Was the noise only when turning?I have the same truck w 130 thou😂Only I feel the grinding after moving from a stop and only when turning right.This is the only time I feel it like you said on drivers side .
Ok I have vacuum up top by the solenoid but not on the wheel end .Haven’t replaced the solenoid for a new one do that means it’s time for that I guess ?
unless I find a leak in the lines along the way?
Great video. I have a rattle I have been trying to track down. I had my muffler checked out and was told it was not that. I replaced the solenoid and still have rattle. I have vacuum everywhere I tested per this video. I still have suction at the solenoid after shifting into 4wd. Is that normal? I thought it should go away
Did u ever resolve this? I also have vacuum when in 4x4 on top
Did u ever resolve this? I also have vacuum when in 4x4 on top
great videos on the 4x4 IWE issues. I have a 2005 f150 and have the dreaded grinding/ratcheting noise in both front wheels. only while on the gass. I checked all the vacuum lines and actuators according to your videos, all is good. new solenoid as well. i then tried to check the vacuum resevoir for vaccum. it took quite a bit of pumping to get to 20. should it create vacuum right away? Oh and all check valves are ok
woodfern No it will take awhile to get to the 20 with a hand pump, the thing you are looking for is does the reservoir hold vacuum. Unfortunately once the solenoid has gone bad in the past the iwe's are damaged at that point and must be replace to finish the repair.
Was wondering if you had any videos on older f150s like the 80s 302 and 351w
What are your thoughts on the vacuum actuator delete that Dorman offers?
Thanks
Thank you for the informative videos. Very helpful for truck owners trying to diagnose noises. My truck makes a terrible grinding/crunching noise that sounds like something stuck under the truck or something stuck in the fan. It is very hard to diagnose because it only lasts for a few seconds and then goes away. It is also very random and I have not identified any conditions that would consistently make the noise. If one of the IWE vacuum actuators is not holding vacuum could this make a grinding noise? If so, is it because the axle is trying to engage 4WD only partially? Oh yeah, I should mention that I have a 2006 5.4L 3V pickup with only 50K miles.
Did you ever find the solution to this problem?
@@cascios I am sorry to say that I did not find the source of the noise. I tested the IWE actuators and they are working as they should. I actually borrowed a vacuum tester from Advance Auto to test the actuators and they held vacuum. I tested the solenoid as shown in the video. After this attempt I really didn't know what caused the noise. Amazingly, I have not heard the noise since I tried to troubleshoot. I wish I could offer more help. It is still a mystery to me.
@@edaiken1010 thanks for the reply. You must have fixed it by tinkering with it.
I have seen three videos each showing a different location for the IWE Solenoid I’m guessing due to different model years and engines maybe? By the brake booster, up by the battery, and where the one in this video is located. For the life of me I can’t find the one on my ‘09 FX4 as it doesn’t appear to be in any of these locations. Is there a 4th location where it could be mounted?
Helped me greatly keep the videos coming! Saves alot of money and stress! Thanks
Thanks! Ten minutes and $40 later and my issue is fixed!
I have a 2005 f150. When I test the vacuum on the solenoid with the top hole exposed, i dont get vacuum. I hear sucking from the top of the solenoid. Its the second new one I've bought because the first was doing the same thing. Any ideas?
BTW this is a great video. I used it to test and fix everything else on the 4wd. Thanks for posting it.
Adam Wallace You need to make sure the power and ground is getting to the solenoid.
What happens when you do all these checks and you still get squeaking, chirping, and rubbing noises in the front end? I think what’s happening is one is freeing up and the other is staying locked causing my spider gears to turn at half the speed of the wheels. Could it be a sticky solenoid that opened sometimes and not others? I’ve checked my hubs and lines with a vacuum pump and everything seems to work cleanly. Fords answer is to just unplug the vacuum line before the solenoid and let the whole axle turn all the time.
So I have a 2005 F150 4x4 that I have been fighting the "grinding noise" since I bought it last year.. I have replaced the solenoid, complete vacuum line assembly, and both front actuators.. I still have the grinding noise.. And it grinds whether I'm in 2wd or 4wd mode. It only happens at stop - start with the wheels in a turn, like at an intersection. At speed no problems.. In the morning on the way to work when truck is cool, no noise at all... even at slow speeds. What's my next likely culprite.. ?? Front Hub/Bearing Assym. or CV Axel Assym. Any ideas would really be helpful??
Joseph Schneider Yes make sure everything is installed correctly first then inspect the meshing teethe on the cv shaft and backside of the hub to make sure it is smooth and not chewed up.
Can I bypass the solenoid by putting the vaccume directly to the check valve and test drive it that way?
You mention checking it by spinning the tires but I want to check it by seeing if they gring at 1800 rpm when in second gear where mine make the grind noise.
Thanks for the how to as well as the general "how it works" info.
I have a 2004 Expedition EB; I changed my Hub and Bearings and IWEs back in March and am now getting a loud vacuum noise, but only under engine load. As soon as I take my foot off the gas, the vacuum noise stops. If I am traveling at a steady speed, no noise, although I will hear it every now and then. I changed the solenoid, but that didn't fix the issue. Hoping you may have an idea what to check next.
Hi Makuloco! The IWE solenoid in my truck did't recveice the GND signal form the TCCM. I still without fix the 4X4. My truck it's a f150 2010 FX4
I already check:
I already replaced all the vacuum lines (where very toasted).
IWE motors are working fine if I disconnect the vacuum hoses. Those engage/disengage the front wheels shaft.
The IWE solenoid fuse it's fine
12V at IWE solenoid it's present at Grey/Red cable.
NO GND signal present at IWE Solenoid at Brown/Blue cable
You have an issue with the transfer case shift motor not moving when commanded this can be an external electrical issue or more commonly the transfer case shift motor has lost position due to the internal contact plate. Check the codes first.
the motor should move quite a bit
Arturo Garcia