Cages are great for D&D games but ANNOYING to build!
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
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These little things are frustrating to put together because of the material being so difficult to glue, but in the end they are worth the effort as they area low cost but very versatile bit of scatter terrain for Dungeons & Dragons.
Some specific items used in this build:
NEEDLE POINT MESH
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"This project isn't going to look that well, win any awards, or impress any of your players"
You sir, vastly over estimate my players expectations lol. I mean they have me as a DM :)
In short I need to build these cause my players will be amazed by it and then when they see you can put a mini in it ... minds will explode.
Love it. The players will never know what you meant to build, only what you built. If you know what I mean?
Exactly!!! My players are lucky if they get a map, let alone things they can see when playing. Just bought our first minis this last year lol. They aren't even painted
I think most DM/GMs over estimate our players expectations! Anything extra thats added to the experience is usually appreciated because it says to your PCs that you went the extra mile for them
My "players" are my kids. Even my pale imitations of these crafts amaze.
This player expectations comment is accurate in general. You done good.
You could use black thread to hold the grid together at every edge. It might take an extra 5 minutes but I think it would make your job easier in the long run.
dela213 instead perhaps some wire that can then double as chains.
It wouldn't be as stable I don't think, but you could combine the two. Use thread to hold them together and square till the epoxy sets. I'd also do this on a piece of parchment paper so it doesn't stick to it so easily.
@@TheLukemcdaniel I didnt mean the string as a permanent fix but as you said; a way to hold the pieces together as the epoxy sets.
I was thinking using yarn around the dowel at the corners could look really cool painted over into something resembling vines
@@dogvetusa that sounds cool, I really like that idea.
"Despite all my rage, I'm still just a..."
'1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10'
"Chipmunk in a cage."
OMG, I'm dying!
Can't beat a bit of squeaky...1,2,3,4...etc
I almost lost my 💩when I heard that. My wife and I were watching it and fell out laughing.
Alexander Cain I love that song...the original ofc
Thank you so much BMC, for introducing me to this world of crafting, i needed something to get me out of a dark place (depression) and i am now more happy than i have been in ages, every day i make something new, and binged everything you made, and is starting to order a ton of stuff now, just got a proxxon HWC so that's amazing.
Love it! You’re selling this project short, man. These little dungeon dressing projects are my favorites, because not only am I more likely to build them, but they also serve a clear, actual purpose on the game table.
Agreed!
i'm loving these small simple builds (boat and cage), i think having a few of these videos in between the larger builds would be a good idea
Never underestimate the coolness of everyday peices. It's part of the whole that makes it all more enjoyable. Like a tree or car in a electric train setting.
I love the music addition and the super fast counting, makes a really great video.
Have you tried making the round cages out of the hair rollers? Be interesting to see what other uses for them you come up with and take on it. Hanging them on chains with corpses inside is a lot of fun also ;) haha
Hair rollers can make for easy ladders too, if you cut it right. Surprisingly versatile, that stuff.
You guys need to stop stealing your girlfriends hair stuff
I made them a few years ago, but never for a video.
@@mszoomy girlfriend's? Son, this is my hair curlers we be talking about
You're right they would be great for a gibbet.
It would be super easy to hold it together with simple thread! You can just tie it through the holes, effectively "sewing" it together. Might even look okay to just leave on if it's painted too, but you could probably cut it off once the glue sets.
Lana Talbot you could use thread, leave it one and make it look like wire. Try E6000, that stuff sticks everything together.
It definitely would! And if you wanted to add a door you could just cut out a door shape and use threads to create hinges on one side.
I was thinking the same thing. Sandwich bag ties, or the thin wire cable ties might also work well. Or use chipboard to create corners that the granny-grating slots into.
My first goblins (circa 25 years ago) were accidently painted metallic green, my naive young self for some reason thought the metallic one was matt and figured the shininess was purely because the paint was wet and would dim down when the paint dried, this looks good. and thankfully having only just come back to the hobby the week before last I'm delighted that I have found your channel there have been so many of your old videos that I have litterally been glued to. Thank you.
from a quick google it looks like the mesh is usually vinyl and thistothat recommends several specific brands of contact cement but I'd bet regular contact cement would probably work. if I had any of the mesh on hand I'd do a quick test but alas, I don't currently do needle point.
I was thinking contact cement also
I don't know if it qualifies but tamiya extra thin works pretty well on the material
Funnily enough I've just tried Revell Contacta Pro on the tag at the top of my sheets (probably intended to hang for sale). No observable reaction.
@@ArronLupus1997 False! Tamiya Extra Thin does nothing.
Plastruct General Purpose Solvent does nothing.
Straight Methyl Ethyl Ketone does nothing.
Straight Lacquer Thinner does nothing.
Even straight Acetone does nothing.
@@DaneSaysStuff considering the original poster said the stuff is made of vinyl, yes it does. Does it work great?, no but it works well enough I've used tamiya extra thin cement on several tamiya kits that have vinyl parts that need to be glued in place. If you have any recommendations for something that would work better I'm more than open to any suggestions
Watching you struggle with this one, I think if I ever try something like this I'll make a skeleton of the corners first and then let the mesh sit inside of that. ^^,
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps leave nubs on the sides of the mesh and press them into pieces of xps
I would have just glued it to the base to begin with but that is just me,
great video as always !!
..... He said pva, super glue and plastic glue don't work with the material
@@liamhgd581... Yet uses them both at the end just fine
"Ohkee Dohkee"
That was the absolute most Canadian thing I've ever heard that didn't involve the word "sorry."
Cheers my friend, great tutorial.
I think it’s more of a North Dakota/Minnesota thing to be fair.
In Western Canada the spelling is Okeydokey....if you are an apple user be careful with spell check.
We say OkeyDokey in England as well.
Eastern Montanan here and I say Okie dokie all the time
@@thoi412 Western Montana and I do also.
i might be way too late here, but i figured out a way to make these things behave, when I made them! just use a needle and thread to tie the individual walls of the cage to eachother on the table, while the cage is still "unwrapped" (that is, not yet glued together). This will create little "hinges", and keep the pieces from moving around too much while the glue is working. Worked for me and made this project vaaastly less annoying!
I love this channel, it gives me so much inspiration for new stuff to torment my players with ^_^
Loved the build. And in case you're curious, the oiliness isn't necessary a big complicated chemistry thing which I think it why there are often conflicting answers, it's just that they're usually sprayed with some kind of lube to stop the mold lines in the holes from fraying the wool/string/whatever you'd normally use to do your needlepoint :) I find washing it with hot soap and water with your normal dishes is a great way to deal with it.
Built one of these months ago. Used thin floral crafting wire to sew the cage edges together. Worked MUCH better than any glue! Even cut a door on one side and “sewed” loops of wire for hinges to make it operable. Used an old necklace chain and latch as a way to chain the cage door shut. Looks great and was much easier/cleaner to make.
Maybe a foam block covered in wax paper? You could pin the walls in place apply epoxy and tape clamp if needed.
I wanted to let you know two things for next time you work with granny grating - first, the superglue and baking soda trick works great on the stuff, sets quickly, fills gaps, and you don't need to hold it still while the glue sets. Second - Mod Podge works on the stuff! Try your standby Mod Podge/black paint mix, if that doesn't work, try slightly diluted Mod Podge - it makes painting about a million times easier. (I used a black granny grate that I bought from So-Fro about six years ago.)
Idea... Get some small Zip ties! Serves 2 purposes. 1: It'll hold the pieces together while curing. Put one on each end of each seam, and maybe two more equally spaced down the seams. 2: It'll also be aesthetic. The zip ties can serve as the iron bands that hold the cage walls together. Alternatively, you can just carefully cut the ties off after the epoxy cures. A bit more clean up may be required to make the ties fully disappear, but it may help leave a bit of your sanity intact.
glad to see that even the expert has a hard time at things at times too love the successful failure and just push through it aditude thanks for the motivation to keep trying
hahaha I'm **DYING** at the speed counting lol
Thanks for this video. It was refreshing to see someone other than me having trials and tribulations while constructing. And it is great idea piece of terrain for gaming.
GREAT VIDEO -loved to see someone else crazy glue their fingers up and have glue pieces and tape develop their own minds. Simple and so useful. thanks
There is a hidden craft here: save that dry epoxy, put some basing sand around the edge, and on any sticks still stuck in there, paint whatever base you want. Then hit the epoxy with some thinned down ink washes. Black for oil/tar, green for slime, red for blood and so on. The key is ink to get the sheen to keep it looking wet. Use different coloured card to mix on, getting under colour that show through different and BAM! Sludge pools and slime for your games.
I use 27 Gauge, 1/8" Hardware Cloth (Wire mesh) for making cages and grates. easy to work, bend, looks good in natural metal, and paints great, or you can corrode it (by removing the galvanization layer with muratic acid and letting it start to rust before clearcoating it)
The mesh is designed to be threaded. For the corners and edges, I would recommend, if you have a needle and a little bit of thread, using a ladder stitch or blanket stitch to join the edges with a thin thread, which can be stiffened with a little superglue on the inside. It's a secure stitch and it can resemble chain or ropes used to keep the bars shut. As a bonus, you can not stitch on edge and use the stitching-- unenforced-- to make an easy hinge and allow one of the walls to swing open like a door.
When bonding soft and waxy plastics, I try sanding the bonding surfaces and spray with Adhesion Promoter aerosol. Super glue and kicker to bond them. Another commenter mentioned thread for a mechanical bond; any hidden anchor helps, including giving a decent surface for glue to bite into .
I love that you make so many projects that are easy and universally useful no matter what kind of game you are playing. Nice work :)
Why not use some thread to sew it together in a few spots before gluing? You could avoid the string, glue it, remove the string and then glue up any spots that you missed.
or even leave the thread for visual
The cheapest place to get this plastic mesh is at garden centers, where you can buy it in rolls. Look for the netting aisle.
Is it the same size pattern though? What’s it’s gardening use?
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial It is used for shading potted plants, and is sometimes sold as a rabbit guard for sapplings. The mesh is exactly the same.
Just found out that it is also sold as "Plastic Drainage Mesh / Screen for Bonsai Pot" in sheets on Amazon.
I’ve been using the granny gratings for starship grating/decking for a while. I’ve found it in a silvery color and it works super well.... Cut into 1inch-ish squares and glued down to dollar store foam core as tiles. I use low temp hot glue, sparingly, then sponge paint rust and grime, use a thicker black wash etc... looks grate, I mean great.
Finding it already silver would be fantastic! I’ve never seen that. Will have to look again next time I’m at michaels.
Black Magic Craft if you have “Hobby Lobby” up there, try them too. I think that was the last place I got it.
Hobby Lobby is an American thing. But our micheals stores are much larger here than they are in the states, more like your hobby lobby.
I just used the white plastic needlepoint canvas in a different project and went over it with a rough nail file before gluing. It stuck beautifully with Aileen's Tacky Glue (even on some tiny bits that I thought wouldn't have enough glue to hold), and the paint is holding up well so far.
Seeing videos of struggling and problem solving is such a nice motivator and inspiration. I feel like most of us really do this in most of our projects more often than not. Knowing that it happens to everyone is a great thing to keep in mind when the frustration sets in during whatever project you're working.
Plastic canvas is also sold as "vinyl weave".
If you're going to reinforce the corners anyway, you can get a better gluing surface if you add the supports early and glue the next surface to both the first surface and the corner support.
Fantastic build and a great idea!
I’ve had to solve a similar problem before and have a suggestion for the build, particularly if you are building several. Before you start, make a cube the size of the cage interior. I used wood, but foam would also work. Aggressively sand down the edges of the cube so you’ve got generous flat surfaces where the edges were. Then clamp opposite mesh faces to the cube and you can then quickly glue up the other three faces. The glue won’t stick to the cube because you ‘aggressively’ sanded down the edges.
I put a screw in the bottom and was able to grab it with pliers and pull it out.
I haven’t tried it with mesh but I’ve had luck with barge cement on what I think are similar plastics.
Thanks again for sharing this!
My friend was just getting me up to speed about Wrestling, and now you show me a good way to make a Tabletop Hell in a Cell?
Lilian Lamp That would be epic!
PC 1v1 like that would be a fun little game actually
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Holy crap! Hi! Big fan!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial just to ask do we still get a build video tomorrow or is this just early?
Watching an undead throw the Barbarian off the top of the cage through the underdark announcer table
I have just put one together. I used crochet thread to tie the pieces together and then soaked the edges in white glue. It is super strong and looks a whole lot like welded bars.
Granny Grating also found in florists and garden centers for drainage mats. If in countries who don't have the mentioned stores. Fun item build.
“And often their facts will contradict each other.” 🤣🤣🤣
“Facts”
That beautiful line of poetry is why I clicked the like button. -lol-
It was proven very much correct btw.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial And alternative facts.
I love how you emphasize the item being practical instead of pretty. It is good that you show us that at times, even you struggle in crafting things and that you should not be overly critical of your own work. One should always strive for perfection, but Good Enough also works. :)
Also, I was truly inspired by the little lazy Susan used for priming the item at about 13:10 into the video. I was like, DUH!, I gotta have one of those, so I ordered one today. Thanks for continuing to make these videos and for continuing to inspire us all. Thank you Jeremy!
Dude! Jigs! I have a square of foam floor tile on my desk that I use with sewing pins to hold pieces together when drying. If I'm using some stronger glue, I just put a piece of wax paper under it and pin right through. Saves my some headache.
I work with vinyl for a living. The mesh probably has some sort of plasticizer in it which, when left to set, can work its way to the surface. Using isopropanol is a great way to remove the unwanted plasticizers and help aid in adhesion.
I REALLY liked seeing some of your goof ups in the process of gluing. The mis-sized blocks and the solid glue. It gives an idea on the hurdles you can expect going forward with the project.
I think I’d wire together the seams, and then apply the epoxy. That might give it a bit more stability, and also a nice detail.
Tack together with superglue just enough to hold the shape, then dip all 8 edges into epoxy (V-shape down into a puddle to flood the seam) and wait for it to set.
You could try sewing it together with thread first then glueing it after it is put together. I would see the tooth picks in as well. This isnt my genre but I have learned a ton from you. Thanks
Use sheet material to make the corners, easily glued and made, like a box with open sides. Then glue in your mesh. This would create a sturdy cage that looks very heavy duty, as if the bars/mesh is welded to corner brackets
I made one of these today but decided that I would try melting the sides together over a candle. It worked great and gave the whole thing a more ramshackled look. Be careful not to burn yourself obviously but it does work.
I love this video. I actually built myself a 'dice jail' for bad dice at the table out of match sticks, took forever, but the nice thing about working with wood is that it just takes glue so well. Wish I could share photos on here. But I want to try this method of yours, I might get a fabric lace/mesh instead of that plastic stuff you're using - I wonder if it won't take glue better plus I can stiffen it up so it's not so fabric floppy. But love how your videos inspire me to create stuff, I've wanted a cage for my games for a while.
When you place it on the table top with a bunch of other things it looks great. It completes the overall aesthetic. Any kind of mistakes pretty much look intentional.
It’s true. All terrain looks way better mixed with other stuff.
You should use model glue. Model glue melts plastics and fuses them together. Plus it's fast acting.
You could've set the seams by doing what that stuff is meant for, using a fine black thread to hold the pieces in place while you glue them together. It would even give them the appearance of each piece being ⛓ chained together! 😊
Try using round toothpicks, glued with epoxy, down the entire length on every seam, inside. You could also add them to the bottom edges, to strengthen the edges of the granny netting. Another point: lay down some parchment paper, to rest it on, while waiting for the epoxy to cure. It should peel off, easily, after it fully cures. Cheers!
I used this same mesh to make a cage but used a soldering iron to melt the plastic at the edges to literally weld it together. Started with the corners to make sure I had it straight and then melted all along the edge to give a welded look. Seemed a lot easier than epoxy and didn’t need strengthening with the skewers.
Hey guys, here in gemany you can buy Pysalis fruit at Lidl. It come in a little plastic "cage". You can turn it upsidedown, paint it and it is ready to play. Plus it fits perfectly, cause it is 3x3 square.
I got a metal mesh from home Depot, a little sanding spray paint and super glue and it made it incredibly fast and it's held up for about a year now
Helpful hint for mixing epoxy is to use an old plastic lid from a Pringles chip or coffee can. Mix the epoxy and when what you didn't use it dries just flex the lid and it will pop off a a solid chunk. Then you can reuse it instead of needing to find a new mixing palette. Also the edge stops glue from going everywhere.
I made one out of coffee stirrers last year for my boss as he told me he needed a cage for D&D that was a nightmare to build it worked out in the end. Thanks for the granny grating tip I need to get some of this. Epoxy glue is great on bamboo too as Bamboo doesn't take any of those glues you mentioned either.
Yes! Bamboo is also very tricky to glue for some reason.
A lot of hobby shapes sell lengths of polystyrene with a 90° bend to make l brackets for various miniature projects (usually scale model infrastructure/ model trains/ dioramas). I’ve worked with the granny grate before...it’s definitely finicky. I’ve found that using the poly as a sort of framing bracket gives it a little more surface area to bond to, and helps keep thing squared up
Not sure if its already been said, but if you are having trouble finding it in black, I've only ever seen it in black if you look at the plant/nursery section of the store (instead of the needle-craft section) It's mainly used at the bottom of plant pots as a drainage grate. Also because of that, it not only comes in rectangles, but can be found in small circles to match most plant pots.
I do heavy bath in alcohol and then sanding on that kind of grid and prime it with acrylic matt spray (it is agressive and make some little holes in plastic. you will get addition texture) then you can gluing it with whatever you like. (super glue and such...)
You might want to try out some hobby sized, magnetic, angle clamps. They will hold the walls together at a perfect angle, while you glue the corners together, without the fear of getting glue on the clamp itself.Model railroad guys use them quite a bit.
Easy way to hold it together. Square stock in the corners. Gives a bigger area the glue can bond to.
One could even build a framework of stuff and then put the grates on top. But that seems more fiddly to me.
I myself would just print a cage, but not everyone has a 3D printer. And there's a charm to build everything by hand.
To temporarily hold the pieces together you could use blu-tack(poster putty), or maybe even silly putty, it would protrude and form with the grating but be positionable and peel right off of the epoxy. Still a good and useful build!
I know I am late to the party, but I think it looks good. Only thing is that to help with the gluing is use an angle piece to enhance the look and help with the gluing. As I watched this video I was thinking about the possibility of using the strawberry containers to create a cylindrical cage. They are as malleable as the "granny grate" and has a decent bar shape. I would love to see you try something with that. I haven't had the time or space to start working on anything like this so I am living vicariously through you. Keep up the great work and again would love to see you try out the cylindrical cage idea.
anyway I had this idea for an alternate version of these that will hopefully be easier to make
apply superglue/hot glue to some kind of foam cut in a long rectangular prism, then plunge toothpicks into the dots, when it dries cut off any acess foam so it isnt too tall in the end, then use chip board for the top area, add flavoring like skulls, arrows, whatever, then prime and paint
there we go, Long-bar cages
Made a bone dome cage (we often have goblin and kobolds in our session. Using thick string and cut scraps of styrodur. It's not the prettiest, but especially the crude build goes along with the anesthetic very well.
When working with plastic having some acetone fingernail polish remover can clean off oils and residue, as well as melt the plastic slightly pitting the surface and improving adhesive bonding
Sew the joins with thread, a few tight loops (more loops = thicker "welds") per hole, then put superglue on the thread. Once you get the hand of the lopping while holding the thread taught it is pretty quick and no need to mess with the epoxy. Stitch the bottom edges of the cage was well and superglue them and the entire structure is now fairly rigid even without a base. If you still want a base, the superglued thread now gives your PVA glue something to grip.
Alternately you can stich and superglue the edges of your pieces before you start to assemble. This allows you to glue she structure together because of the thread + superglue edges give the glue something to bond to.
I really enjoy your content, while watching your video I had a few ideas. Try Bondic (UV Glue) also, remove the tooth picks and use 1/16th square Balsa for the corners. You could pin the granny grid to Balsa post while the Epoxy cures if the Bondic doesn't work. Great stuff.
I have not made cages with this stuff, but making structural things I used sewing thread or yarn. May give it a rustic feel as well.
Love it. Especially that it is not perfect. It keeps crafting fun. Functionality and playable, beat artwork I'd be worried to damage.
Keep the projects coming.
Wire from a bread twist tie (with the outer paper/plastic removed) to build the box and have it hold its shape, then apply the epoxy would maybe help.
Like a basket or lobster pot/cage, perhaps try threading the borders with thin wire or thread...that would augment glue-resin...or work without glue.
the plastic grid would make great industrial walk ways and fences for games like 40K and Kill team! All you'd really have to do is reinforce it with popsicle sticks and skewers... I might have to keep an eye out for em! Love yuh videos keep it up!
Another way you could hold the pieces together is to pin the walls into a piece of foam (notching the corners of the foam so that the epoxy doesn't bond with the foam) and then adding the top.
Try an adhesive called Fabric Fusion. Works well sticking things to metal or vinyl. Use the method on it involving a thin coat on each surface, dried tacky.
Awesome! Now I have something to build with the 2/3 sheet of primed grid I have left over from putting windows in foam-core buildings. It's good to have things to craft when the weather is so cold.
Try gluing the spiky posts in before/during assembly. It'd provide a structural frame and more surface area for glue to hold onto.
For sticking it together you could try either acetone to see if it melts it and use it like plastic cement or pvc glue for the same. Depending on the plastic either of those might give you a chemical bond and melt the plastic together depending on what it is actually made of.
Great video, Jem! The message it sends is really very clear and inspires us all not to give up even if what we do is not the super cool thing we hoped it was! Anyway: the thing I like most is how you managed, despite your well-deserved success and the past years, to remain the same Jeremy that we have all been big fans of for years. Good boy!
Cool build. Wish I could find black mesh though. One thought that might make this a bit easier: if you tie the edges of the box together with some thin wire (like the individual strands from some multi-core wire) then you can just dip the seams in the epoxy. That way you could do all the edges from one batch of epoxy and not have to hold it while it sets. Balance it on a paint pot or something while it cures so it doesn't stick to the table.
Also, this might be an interesting project to try on your new 3D printer. I wouldn't have thought it a good idea, but since the test model for the Photon is a wire frame cube, we know it can work if you print it diagonally. This would be a better option if you wanted lots of cages or just to avoid working with difficult materials.
plastic canvas comes in lots of colors, but for most uses I expect brown, black, white will work best for uses, and the only thing that seems to stick to it is very heavy tacky glue, as far as putting it together try brown, black or green embroidery floss and a needle, after assembly you can leave it as rope
(Old video, I know, but just now watching it!)
Why not use the thin craft/wreath wire to 'stitch' the edges together. You can then use a glue to make sure the wire doesn't come loose. And it will make it look like it was not welded together so much as either make-shifted out of salvage or simply just assembled by someone with limited researches.
Have you thought about binding the edges together with the wire from a twist-tie? A loop near each corner before applying epoxy would probably keep things in order.
It's the small things that really make it. I recently got a 'camp' set for my players, though I noticed the one thing I couldn't find was bed rolls! So I'm gonna try and make some. I want to be able to draw a map, hand the set to my players to "make camp" by setting up the minis for random encounters on the road
Deep cut from wizkids has bed rolls.
Crossstitching plastic would be good too! Not oily and can be quite rigid. Comes in a variety of different sized holes :)
I wonder if you could use the barrel of a hot solder iron to effectively weld the corners together. Might produce a neat effect as well. Love the builds! See you on the next one
I've had descent result with Testers plastic model glue (for model car and such) and granny grating. It sorta melt bonds the two pieces. Don't use too much.
Have you thought of using straps at the corners instead of glue to tie it all together? That also might give you something to blob glue on to make the strap solid. Might add a cool look too.
Oh. I'm Quite suprised, that you made the extra Work of looking up the Materials online for german customers.
Might be worth looking at a solvent cement like Plastruct or Rez-n-bond. I'm not sure if they work on this type of plastic but they're great products that create a chemical weld by melting the plastic and then evaporating so quickly that it creates a seamless bond almost instantly. You've just gotta be sure to use a natural bristle brush so you don't end up bonding the brush to your work piece.
You could use black sewing thread threw a few of the holes and wrapped around the wood spikes, then used superglue to wick threw the thread and bond it that way. Hope it helps.
Did this today, used perler melty beads, split lengthwise to hold the ends together. Sturdy enough I didn’t need to use glue and since i used black i didn’t have to wait for anything to dry
I think your jig comment is a good idea. Even just foam with slits to hold the four sides upright, you could run a bead of epoxy around the top and just set the top grate on it to cure.
To hold it together for gluing you could use some wire or thread to sew it together. It has holes anyway... and maybe it adds a nice greeble.
Have you ever tried using "goop"? It's a silicone base glue that takes a long time to dry But sticks to just about everything. I use it a lot and all the projects I do.
Have you considered using a fine wire like beading wire to wire the whole thing together before adding your epoxy? You could even wire in your toothpicks at the same time and glue the whole thing together in one go. This would also make it self-supporting so you wouldn't have to sit and hold it forever.