One quick important note: if your fish has been in transit for a long time (eg: in bag for 24+ hours from shipping), do not use an air stone like I did here or introduce a lot of oxygen right away as it would alter the pH too quickly. Instead, drip acclimate to cause water agitation in order to gradually match the parameters without drastically alter pH, this is especially important for more sensitive fish like wrasse, anthias.. etc. 🤓
Inappropriate Reefer I wouldn’t get one unless you are planning to spend a lot of money on an oversized one. Oversized are usually the only ones that get the job done.
@@InappropriateReefer instead of puting a lot of money in the rodi canisters , which is not a sure solution , you can just get a uv sterilizer which would most likely fix the job in no time , will also help with future problems like dinos and stuff , really hope u get it fixed
FYI - you need multiple herbivores to cover all algaes. Get one of each mouth type Sharpnose (Scopas, Yellow, Purple, salifin), bristletooth tangs (Yellow eye kole, Lavender, Blue eye etc).
@Tommaso Cerofolini until they starve... Nothing good happens fast. Get ONE foxface. Once you have minimal algae, you can feed nori. Alot of tangs will chew through alot of nori and create tons of waste. They are very active so create alot of ammonia
The cloudiness might be a bacterial bloom. It occurred after a water change and I saw you were using Tropic Marin Synbiotic/Bioactif salt which stimulates bacteria through a carbon source included in the salt. Just a thought.
I’ve been using safety stop since the beginning I learned about it from Marc from melsreef I’ve never had a parasite issue works great I highly recommend it my feeling about copper is it’s like giving chemotherapy to someone without cancer, in the past I had a quarantine system and lost fish from putting them in copper
I love my two bar rabbit fish. I have never seen it pick on the rocks. Though my tank has no algae what so ever. His tank mates are a yellow watchmen goby, percula clown, and a royal Gramma.
So actually a pale fish is sometimes due to it living in a sales tank for a while the best tangs I have bought were pale fron being in the store for a month.
Monitor the ORP before, during and after a water change. You might be surprised at how much it drops! This could be because it needs longer to mix before going in. I believe poorly mixed salt is far lower in oxygen than the system and this actually causes the problem. I mix RO-DI 0-TDS, at 25C for 24h. I add the salt slowly, a bit at a time so it’s not a white out in the mixing vessel. This greatly helps prevent precipitation that can lead to clouding once added to main system. I add it to a high flow area of the sump slowly. Be patient. This resolved my issues with clouding after water changes. Fish recommendation: peacock wrasse! Stunning fish and well behaved.
Interesting, someone else also suggested mixing the new water for 24 hrs before using (so far I'm just waiting ~2-3 hours), I suggested that in my old tank I did it the same way but then again I am not working with the same volume of water. I will try mixing the new salt for 24 hrs next round and see if that is it. Thank you for the suggestion, I don't have a way to monitor ORP at the moment, but I will take you guys' word for it! ;-) Beautiful wrasse btw, may go for it!! (need to get a screen top first)
Inappropriate Reefer I never noticed this event until having a larger display tank with a black background. Like yourself it was happening straight after a Water change and lingering for days after. I’m assuming unless you are very consistent with matching all main parameters before adding it, you get a reaction. ORP is a great visual clue to this when constantly monitored. BRS done a episode on salt mixing. Recommend 24h that led me to try it. Problem solved for me. Good luck 🤞
When my snails spawn i can see them doing.. they spawn from temperature swing. Maybe the slight change in water temp during the water change. But usually evening time and you can actively see then spawn.
I havent been following you as much as I should be, but can I ask if you do a video of your chemical, mechanical filtration? Not sure if you run activated carbon or use something like polyfilter. As for the bubble algae, in the states you can easily get your hands on an emerald crab. As I am from Australia, once you have bubble algae, it is over lol. Some sea species such as the emerald crab are illegal to get in australia.
Who else realised he called a Foxface a different fish to a rabbitfish? (They’re the same family of fish) Edit: also, the two barred rabbitfish gets bigger then any of the foxfaces
Do u let ur salt water sit 24 hours or more. That will make it cloudy. Also I have a white brute. I notice bacteria film in my water storage. It made my water cloudy now I keep the brute covered with blankets to keep the light out. I don't feel the film as abundant now
I have not let my saltwater sit for 24 hrs (usually just 2-3 hours); I have done it the same way with my 45g tank and same salt with no issue though. I do use a grey Brute trashcan (was using regular 5g bucket in the past), not sure if that'd make a difference. Can try to mix salt for longer next round and see if it helps. Thanks for the idea!
@@InappropriateReefer no prob. i think that might be it. but then again i use cheap reef crystals lol but definitely noticed if it dosent sit a long while it'll make my tank cloudy
huh, I literally drive by that Tropical Lagoon store three times a week and have never noticed it, but I'll have to stop in, it looks like a cool little spot.
Aren't you worried about your Macro Algae since it eats Algae? Edit, why not add a piece of pipe at your return union and re-direct some small flow back into the motor sump portion. To reduce the bacteria film?
Should be OK since there is no macro algae in the display tank! Not a bad idea about T-ing off a little flow to agitate the sump's face, let's see if the increased flow of the new return pump solves the bacteria film issue in the sump first 🤔 Thanks for the suggestion!
Why don’t you use vibrant to get rid of your bubble algae and do you have a uv to clear your water up a bit, might do the job, love your videos here in Scotland, keep up the great work
I never thought about the refugium , I just know it’s great got getting rid of bubble algae, would it be worth closing down the refugium for 10 weeks or so to kill the algae then start the refugium back up, there’s not much in there anyway, also I would recommend in future removing the bubble algae gently without bursting it and it wouldn’t spread so bad in the first place
Had a purple tang die recently, ick took him and 2 clowns from my tank. Was a good 3 week battle till he died than the clowns went. So far the wrasse and goby haven’t gotten ick
Theyre now 13$ in northern va. They used to be 3-4$ then the pandemic hit and fish prices here went 2-3-4× higher than they were before. It sucks because i wanna get more green chromis. But there is no way in hell im paying 13$ each for one. But then gas prices here are 1.74$ for 87 and $2.09 for 93. How much is gas over in commiefornia ?
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 My experience with Green Chromis has always been like it was a last fish swimming glass cage death match until there was one!
@@acanskywalker5631 na they never fight for me.. ever.. if they died it was because of a larasite called Uronema it makes red marks on them looks like they were fighting. But its a parasite. Maybe you saw en physically rilling eachother apart.. but not me.. and nost people never do. They blame the red marks and deaths on fighting when they dont know about that parasite
Only thing I found that helped with bubble algae is Vibrant. I did however have an outbreak of red cyano after dosing the Vibrant (not sure if it was a result of Vibrant) but even so getting rid of cyano is much easier in my book than bubble algae.
I must be the only person who doesn’t do water changes. He got all that shit out to change water. My water evaporates and my auto system keeps it topped of with fresh water. 🤷🏾♂️ that’s my water change to me. I got an auto feeder and every other day I feed the frozen food. Never had anything die in my tank.
I place my new fish in a high flow, no substrate observation tank and watch them for a good 6 weeks. I’m not a fan of copper treatments. I’ve killed too many fish that way. The Rabbit fish does look pretty cool.
Palys and zoas in the aquarium with a baby in the house? I got rid of mine before the kids were born. Too dangerous to have something that poisonous in the house with little ones who touch everything and put everything in their mouths. The LD 50 for palytoxin is 150 nanogram / kilogram. That is .00015mg / kg. Too scary for me. Stay well, Chris
Hi been watching your videos the past week and I'm hooked on saltwater, I have kept fresh water tanks for over 20 years and I'm only 30 years old. You have pushed me to my dream of a reef tank. I have one question about your 10g tank with the aquaclear filter....is the aquaclear 70 enough or to my flow for a 10g, should I go for the 50 or the 70 and add a power head, I'm very unsure if the 70 is too powerful or not.
Great video! This hobby can get out of control as you can tell. Keep those videos rolling. We just now decided to go saltwater with the 1000 gallon aquarium, feel free to check us out as part 16 of the series just got released.
It’s no effort to make a 5 gallon pail with copper safe and anti biotics for a few days… temp 82 degrees F… this is still very effective. Than just a dip!!!!
@@InappropriateReefer the smart buddy already does that I believe, so just lock off the product water using a valve or float switch and after a minute or so once the pressure builds it'll trigger the pressure valve and would back flush your system automatically
neil bharath ok if I understand this correctly... turn on the flow to the unit, but block off the production output so water cannot come through, and let it run for a minute or so and release the flow restriction and use those water right away?
@@InappropriateReefer no no, on the water produced after the di stage, put a lock off valve, lock off the water for a minute and the smart buddie should go into back flush mode, after its finished just open back the valve and you produce your water, do this before and after you use the ro unit, or just get the puratek deluxe rodi unit and solve all your problems lol
neil bharath got it, thank you! I’m all in on my BRS unit already, just ordered additional water saver kit to upgrade the unit to 150 GPD and with less waste water (the latter is what I really care about, sucks wasting water), and all new membrane and filters... all in! 😂 Thanks for your help, I’ll install a water lock at the end of the final output to perform this flush!
Bro, you got to drop that god awful, banging outro sound bite... Sounds like a kid banging on pots and fans. I enjoy watching your videos, they're relaxing and entertaining, then that horrendous sound comes on and makes me not want to continue watching your channel. It might have been funny or "inappropriate" at first, but it got stale fast and I'm sure most people hate it. I watch a lot of vids on my chromecast and that sound is 10x louder than the rest of your audio. It's like a horrible commercial that comes on and makes you jump because it's so much louder than everything else. God I feel old saying this, but wow it is just so annoying.
Rock flower anemone Six line wrasse Cyphastrea All corals and fish I wish I could have, but ones I would've never known if it wasn't for @reefdork. Dude is awesome
yikes that yellow tang looks awful. I used to skip QT until I was bit in the ass and lost 3000 dollars worth of fish to velvet. QTd fish from there on out. Then yet again lost 400 dollars to ich from not Qting coral. Now EVERYTHING gets quarantined in separate tanks
I buy from sellers who keep their fish in copper, but I still quarantine because I am worried about the fish eating. Also, my fish are kinda jerks so I want to see the newbie eat in a vacuum before tossing him in.
For fish, I suggest some utility fish just to keep those pests under control such as: Molly Miller Blenny = Aiptasia, lined wrasse = critter control, springer's damsel = flatworm, etc.
Love this list. I did not know about Molly Miller Blenny for Aiptasia control but now I have looked/learned, thank you! I'll be keeping an eye out for this guy! At the moment I have a Silver Bellied Wrasse, I wonder if he would cover the Lined Wrasse and Springer's Damel's role? I have heard about Springer's ability to control pests and was especially interested in one!
@@InappropriateReefer It doesn't hurt to add this fish. Sometimes wrasse ignore the flatworms. The springer's damsel is a small bio load. The Miller Molly will also help you control some algae as well.
I haven’t watched your videos in awile, it was a breath of fresh air, been neglecting the tank with all this extra stress and more work due to COVID. Glad to be getting back to some normal for me
One quick important note: if your fish has been in transit for a long time (eg: in bag for 24+ hours from shipping), do not use an air stone like I did here or introduce a lot of oxygen right away as it would alter the pH too quickly. Instead, drip acclimate to cause water agitation in order to gradually match the parameters without drastically alter pH, this is especially important for more sensitive fish like wrasse, anthias.. etc. 🤓
He's pretty cute! I hope he does his job! what's the song in the background during 17:00?
You should definitely install a UV sterilizer if you can’t find the cause of your cloudy water. That would have to solve it
I really don't want to tack on additional equipment but this would be the route I will go if I really cannot figure it out. 😢
Inappropriate Reefer I wouldn’t get one unless you are planning to spend a lot of money on an oversized one. Oversized are usually the only ones that get the job done.
Inappropriate Reefer do you dose purple up
@@InappropriateReefer instead of puting a lot of money in the rodi canisters , which is not a sure solution , you can just get a uv sterilizer which would most likely fix the job in no time , will also help with future problems like dinos and stuff , really hope u get it fixed
The fins of the yellow tang definitely would have given me a red flag before buying. Hope the rabbit fish stays nice and healthy!
I thought the same thing. Something was off.
FYI - you need multiple herbivores to cover all algaes. Get one of each mouth type Sharpnose (Scopas, Yellow, Purple, salifin), bristletooth tangs (Yellow eye kole, Lavender, Blue eye etc).
Or just one foxface
@Tommaso Cerofolini until they starve... Nothing good happens fast. Get ONE foxface. Once you have minimal algae, you can feed nori. Alot of tangs will chew through alot of nori and create tons of waste. They are very active so create alot of ammonia
The cloudiness might be a bacterial bloom. It occurred after a water change and I saw you were using Tropic Marin Synbiotic/Bioactif salt which stimulates bacteria through a carbon source included in the salt. Just a thought.
I also think it is the salt
Good Info bro 👍
Good suggestion here, you may be on to something. 🤓👍 I do have a bucket of TM Pro as well, will use that next round and see if that was it!
When you already knew you got a rabbit fish because you follow him on Instagram😎
5:36 LOOOOL Emily's face when she saw the rabbitfish u got 😂😂😂
she always gives the most hilarious comments and reactions 😂👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have a 2-bar rabbit fish and that thing is gonna get HUGE. You will need to rehome in about a year they grow fast and eat like crazy. Good luck
Great vids 👏🏻 can't wait for the big tank to be full of colors.
That yellow Tang looks like Rocky after that 1st fight with Drago...
Great pickup. I love that fish as well. Great tank and thank you again for the shoutout.
Great video brother the reef tank looks awesome 👏
I’ve been using safety stop since the beginning I learned about it from Marc from melsreef I’ve never had a parasite issue works great I highly recommend it my feeling about copper is it’s like giving chemotherapy to someone without cancer, in the past I had a quarantine system and lost fish from putting them in copper
I love my two bar rabbit fish. I have never seen it pick on the rocks. Though my tank has no algae what so ever. His tank mates are a yellow watchmen goby, percula clown, and a royal Gramma.
When I had a two bar, it would always follow my Hawaiian yellow tang around. They were best buds.
So actually a pale fish is sometimes due to it living in a sales tank for a while the best tangs I have bought were pale fron being in the store for a month.
Tropic Marin Synbiotic, man. Been through the same thing
Monitor the ORP before, during and after a water change. You might be surprised at how much it drops! This could be because it needs longer to mix before going in. I believe poorly mixed salt is far lower in oxygen than the system and this actually causes the problem.
I mix RO-DI 0-TDS, at 25C for 24h. I add the salt slowly, a bit at a time so it’s not a white out in the mixing vessel. This greatly helps prevent precipitation that can lead to clouding once added to main system. I add it to a high flow area of the sump slowly. Be patient. This resolved my issues with clouding after water changes.
Fish recommendation: peacock wrasse! Stunning fish and well behaved.
Interesting, someone else also suggested mixing the new water for 24 hrs before using (so far I'm just waiting ~2-3 hours), I suggested that in my old tank I did it the same way but then again I am not working with the same volume of water. I will try mixing the new salt for 24 hrs next round and see if that is it. Thank you for the suggestion, I don't have a way to monitor ORP at the moment, but I will take you guys' word for it! ;-)
Beautiful wrasse btw, may go for it!! (need to get a screen top first)
Inappropriate Reefer I never noticed this event until having a larger display tank with a black background. Like yourself it was happening straight after a Water change and lingering for days after. I’m assuming unless you are very consistent with matching all main parameters before adding it, you get a reaction. ORP is a great visual clue to this when constantly monitored.
BRS done a episode on salt mixing. Recommend 24h that led me to try it. Problem solved for me.
Good luck 🤞
Carbon and UV.... especially with all the Softies ...also that stagnant water under neath is probably not helping....skimmer might need some work too
Love you tank nice to see LFS’s with plenty of stock Marine hobby has taken a hit here in the uk
When my snails spawn i can see them doing.. they spawn from temperature swing. Maybe the slight change in water temp during the water change. But usually evening time and you can actively see then spawn.
This did happen right after a water change!
this makes sunday’s better
Kind of crazy how much larger your hippo looks 🦛
He is growing up FAST!
I havent been following you as much as I should be, but can I ask if you do a video of your chemical, mechanical filtration? Not sure if you run activated carbon or use something like polyfilter. As for the bubble algae, in the states you can easily get your hands on an emerald crab. As I am from Australia, once you have bubble algae, it is over lol. Some sea species such as the emerald crab are illegal to get in australia.
Tip for lowering the suction of the buckethead vac, rubber band a prefilter sponge over it :v
Just add a quality UV sterilizer that will fix your issue with cloudiness. also seems like your feeding too much.
Who else realised he called a Foxface a different fish to a rabbitfish? (They’re the same family of fish)
Edit: also, the two barred rabbitfish gets bigger then any of the foxfaces
Do u let ur salt water sit 24 hours or more. That will make it cloudy. Also I have a white brute. I notice bacteria film in my water storage. It made my water cloudy now I keep the brute covered with blankets to keep the light out. I don't feel the film as abundant now
I have not let my saltwater sit for 24 hrs (usually just 2-3 hours); I have done it the same way with my 45g tank and same salt with no issue though. I do use a grey Brute trashcan (was using regular 5g bucket in the past), not sure if that'd make a difference. Can try to mix salt for longer next round and see if it helps. Thanks for the idea!
@@InappropriateReefer no prob. i think that might be it. but then again i use cheap reef crystals lol but definitely noticed if it dosent sit a long while it'll make my tank cloudy
huh, I literally drive by that Tropical Lagoon store three times a week and have never noticed it, but I'll have to stop in, it looks like a cool little spot.
Aren't you worried about your Macro Algae since it eats Algae?
Edit, why not add a piece of pipe at your return union and re-direct some small flow back into the motor sump portion. To reduce the bacteria film?
Should be OK since there is no macro algae in the display tank! Not a bad idea about T-ing off a little flow to agitate the sump's face, let's see if the increased flow of the new return pump solves the bacteria film issue in the sump first 🤔 Thanks for the suggestion!
Cool
Why don’t you use vibrant to get rid of your bubble algae and do you have a uv to clear your water up a bit, might do the job, love your videos here in Scotland, keep up the great work
He would have to pull everything out of his refugium which would suck.
Vibrant kills refugiums. I agree about the UV though
I never thought about the refugium , I just know it’s great got getting rid of bubble algae, would it be worth closing down the refugium for 10 weeks or so to kill the algae then start the refugium back up, there’s not much in there anyway, also I would recommend in future removing the bubble algae gently without bursting it and it wouldn’t spread so bad in the first place
Hey man, how big is this tank? THanks
What happened with the uv you were using? That usually works for me.
Had a purple tang die recently, ick took him and 2 clowns from my tank. Was a good 3 week battle till he died than the clowns went. So far the wrasse and goby haven’t gotten ick
$9 green chromis, they’re like $4-$5 in LA
Theyre now 13$ in northern va. They used to be 3-4$ then the pandemic hit and fish prices here went 2-3-4× higher than they were before.
It sucks because i wanna get more green chromis. But there is no way in hell im paying 13$ each for one.
But then gas prices here are 1.74$ for 87 and $2.09 for 93. How much is gas over in commiefornia ?
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 My experience with Green Chromis has always been like it was a last fish swimming glass cage death match until there was one!
@@acanskywalker5631 na they never fight for me.. ever.. if they died it was because of a larasite called Uronema it makes red marks on them looks like they were fighting. But its a parasite.
Maybe you saw en physically rilling eachother apart.. but not me.. and nost people never do. They blame the red marks and deaths on fighting when they dont know about that parasite
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 No parasites here, just one king of the hill bully, but thanks for the info!
Do you still use that one stop
Interested in seeing/listening to tell us how it knocked out that bubble algae.
Can not seem to find the safety stop in Canada, anyone know someone who sells it?
Print an adapter for a hose to attach to your wet-vac. Add a valve and wham bam boom....you got a slower sump vac. This is just a random idea
Sometimes when you swap up. It takes a bit for things to settle in
How do you like Ricks? Do they have quality healthy saltwater fish?
I think once that surface scum disappears from your sump you’ll have less problems with cloudy water.
Only thing I found that helped with bubble algae is Vibrant. I did however have an outbreak of red cyano after dosing the Vibrant (not sure if it was a result of Vibrant) but even so getting rid of cyano is much easier in my book than bubble algae.
My foxface was the answer to bubble algea. Als the Percnon Gibessi i have is a bubble killer
Love you brooo
I must be the only person who doesn’t do water changes. He got all that shit out to change water. My water evaporates and my auto system keeps it topped of with fresh water. 🤷🏾♂️ that’s my water change to me. I got an auto feeder and every other day I feed the frozen food. Never had anything die in my tank.
Malachite green and formalyn is just basic ich meds is it not?
I place my new fish in a high flow, no substrate observation tank and watch them for a good 6 weeks. I’m not a fan of copper treatments. I’ve killed too many fish that way.
The Rabbit fish does look pretty cool.
Have you considered your tank being cloudy due to being next to your sliding door?
Palys and zoas in the aquarium with a baby in the house? I got rid of mine before the kids were born. Too dangerous to have something that poisonous in the house with little ones who touch everything and put everything in their mouths. The LD 50 for palytoxin is 150 nanogram / kilogram. That is .00015mg / kg. Too scary for me.
Stay well,
Chris
love my magnificent foxface.
Could the cloudy water be caused by macro algae spawning?
Don't really have much macro in the 135g at the moment, but that would have been my #1 guess otherwise!
Hi been watching your videos the past week and I'm hooked on saltwater, I have kept fresh water tanks for over 20 years and I'm only 30 years old. You have pushed me to my dream of a reef tank. I have one question about your 10g tank with the aquaclear filter....is the aquaclear 70 enough or to my flow for a 10g, should I go for the 50 or the 70 and add a power head, I'm very unsure if the 70 is too powerful or not.
Started on a 40g breeder build, debating on the brands now..
Set your UV on a time few hours a day
Dude what food is that? Looking forward to using this.
I was feeding the Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef flake, been using that as part of what I feed my fish for years, fish loves it
Would you say your clownfish are 5 inches
Anybody know the song @5:15
When I quarantined all but one of my corydoras died
why don´t you try some Anthias?
Great video! This hobby can get out of control as you can tell. Keep those videos rolling. We just now decided to go saltwater with the 1000 gallon aquarium, feel free to check us out as part 16 of the series just got released.
Is that shop in Silver Spring md if is it’s legit 15 minutes away from me been wanting to visit is it good place??
Tadow!
Get a dwarf angel!, flame, coral beauty, nox, etc :D
Emily is the best, lol
Tsm aquatics for pre quarantined fish!
How about a pair of Centropyge Interruptus “Japanese Pygmy Angel’s”😃‼️ They”re beautiful and cheap!!! Okay just kidding on the cheap part.
If I could afford one, LOL!! The captive babies are super cute!
You heard that from @coralvibez =)
Should've gotten a fox face
It’s no effort to make a 5 gallon pail with copper safe and anti biotics for a few days… temp 82 degrees F… this is still very effective. Than just a dip!!!!
Hello great video! New sub here what's the name of the food again please!
blink1181 watch the video over bro
Warning !!! One spot fox face will go after LPS !!!
Purple tang
should have pick the foxface
Get a sailfin tang
Run UV and Ozone.
Very risky..........Not Quarantining can literally nuke your tank.
Add an auto flush for the membrane , your membrane is probably fried
Will look into this
@@InappropriateReefer the smart buddy already does that I believe, so just lock off the product water using a valve or float switch and after a minute or so once the pressure builds it'll trigger the pressure valve and would back flush your system automatically
neil bharath ok if I understand this correctly... turn on the flow to the unit, but block off the production output so water cannot come through, and let it run for a minute or so and release the flow restriction and use those water right away?
@@InappropriateReefer no no, on the water produced after the di stage, put a lock off valve, lock off the water for a minute and the smart buddie should go into back flush mode, after its finished just open back the valve and you produce your water, do this before and after you use the ro unit, or just get the puratek deluxe rodi unit and solve all your problems lol
neil bharath got it, thank you! I’m all in on my BRS unit already, just ordered additional water saver kit to upgrade the unit to 150 GPD and with less waste water (the latter is what I really care about, sucks wasting water), and all new membrane and filters... all in! 😂 Thanks for your help, I’ll install a water lock at the end of the final output to perform this flush!
are you ever gonna do a female betta sorority tank???
Bro, you got to drop that god awful, banging outro sound bite... Sounds like a kid banging on pots and fans. I enjoy watching your videos, they're relaxing and entertaining, then that horrendous sound comes on and makes me not want to continue watching your channel. It might have been funny or "inappropriate" at first, but it got stale fast and I'm sure most people hate it. I watch a lot of vids on my chromecast and that sound is 10x louder than the rest of your audio. It's like a horrible commercial that comes on and makes you jump because it's so much louder than everything else. God I feel old saying this, but wow it is just so annoying.
You should get a microscope
First
Foxface is a rabbit fish my dude.
Living up to your name 😆
😅😅😅
Rock flower anemone
Six line wrasse
Cyphastrea
All corals and fish I wish I could have, but ones I would've never known if it wasn't for @reefdork. Dude is awesome
Nice rabbit fish
Go do water change 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Add a 5micron pre sediment filter prior to the 1micron on the RODI.
how do you attach your Euphyllia ?
Indo Gold Torch
As many have said I think it might be your salt or you might need a UV. Hurry up get the porcupine puffer
有style啊
yikes that yellow tang looks awful. I used to skip QT until I was bit in the ass and lost 3000 dollars worth of fish to velvet. QTd fish from there on out. Then yet again lost 400 dollars to ich from not Qting coral. Now EVERYTHING gets quarantined in separate tanks
Some people learn the hard way. The longer his luck holds out, the more the crash will hurt.
3 gen 5 for nps corals. Yep ur name.is correct
Maybe the issue is how you’re caring for your fish... I mean how many new fish videos have you done? Fish actually live a long time.
I buy from sellers who keep their fish in copper, but I still quarantine because I am worried about the fish eating. Also, my fish are kinda jerks so I want to see the newbie eat in a vacuum before tossing him in.
For fish, I suggest some utility fish just to keep those pests under control such as: Molly Miller Blenny = Aiptasia, lined wrasse = critter control, springer's damsel = flatworm, etc.
Love this list. I did not know about Molly Miller Blenny for Aiptasia control but now I have looked/learned, thank you! I'll be keeping an eye out for this guy! At the moment I have a Silver Bellied Wrasse, I wonder if he would cover the Lined Wrasse and Springer's Damel's role? I have heard about Springer's ability to control pests and was especially interested in one!
@@InappropriateReefer It doesn't hurt to add this fish. Sometimes wrasse ignore the flatworms. The springer's damsel is a small bio load. The Miller Molly will also help you control some algae as well.
I haven’t watched your videos in awile, it was a breath of fresh air, been neglecting the tank with all this extra stress and more work due to COVID. Glad to be getting back to some normal for me
Have you measured par yet?
Maybe the salt is causing the cloudiness.