Funny, I found the Pipbot the easiest of all these, I had 1 post that was a little stuck but it wiggled free. Side note, feels great on sore muscles, like accu pressure I've been trying to print that little engine for over a year now. Finally gave in and used a raft and reduced to 110% 😆
the pip robot, the tank treads? I got it in PLA on the prusa mini, except for two treads, which only rotated a little. Apparently I either got really lucky or I have my settings really dialed in! :D
Lol, I printed that 3 cylinder 2 years ago with instant success as a 3d noob. On a Ender 3, two days old, stock settings with Jupiter pla 200 degrees. Guess that was a typical case of 'beginners luck'...
Wanted to print the vase, but unfortunately SuperSlicer crashes (known bug) when enabling vase mode. Great opportunity to give Orcaslicer (Previously known as BambuStudio-SoftFever) a try. Currently printing after slicing without issues on my Ratrig V-Core-3.
They're usually designed for 0.4mm nozzles right? I usually print with a 0.6 and the models tend to fuse. I'll try stepping down extrusion widths to 0.4.
is there a reason why u use PETG ist it in generell the better filament in comparison to PLA? are there and these days any reasons to use PLA? just starting with 3d printig and i always struggel wih filament i take or maby buy
The absolute best torture test you can do for your machine is this...Wait until someone contacts you to commission you for a designed product and a final print. Give them a time frame for when it's guaranteed to be finished, give them a price, and then go ahead seal the deal and take the payment. If, by chance, your computer doesn't hear you and go ahead and delete some of your 3D modeling software's important system files as a preemptive strike, try to print the model you just made. If your printer even bothers to power on, it will at least certainly find a few overhangs (at the 6-7 hour part of the print) that should have had support, knock the part loose from the print bed at around 90%, form a clog, hide all of your spare nozzles, and kick your cat just for good measure... But... after a week and an apology to the customer, along with a small partial refund for "Sorry about all of this!" you will get it working in tip/top shape to print that next Benchy or XYZ Cube...
I printed the tank on my Ender 3 pro a few weeks ago. It's converted to direct drive using the $30 creality kit and I was using the Chep fast profile just changed the retraction for the direct drive and increased the extruder temp. I used PLA and other than having an issue with the PLA being inconsistent and causing skipping for a section of the material it came out very good on the first try. I did have to break loose a couple treads and the main pivot took allot of persuading. If I were to print it with a better quality profile I see no reason it wouldn't come out as good as yours did.
Great stuff Michael.. but my thoughts are.. most of us just have 1 printer only and you keep saying it didn't work on this one but worked on that one.. we all do not have that benefit and luxury to have multiple different printers like you, so could you please do this sort of stuff for an Ender3v2 and do them all with it.. as a lot of us out there use this machine.. or do a video for each of the majority of machines that people use...I am new to the 3D printing game but I love what you do and how you do it just some of it doesn't help me with my machine..... Keep up the great content.
4:18 So that's what it means when someone shatters you hart into milion peaces. :D Not gonna lie, if I'd put this much work to make a shape I want and than the slicer will do it's absolute best to make the pieces as evenly spread as possible, I will cry. :D
I printed the 6 cylinder version of the Print in Place Engine , my problem was the first few layers it would come free, so in the end had to print it with a brim , them after completing worked first time. ( X1C combo ) I don't like it easy so I printed the Torture Toaster in 4 colours , and got it working down to 0.2mm , which on a normal clearance test can get the 0.1mm free , so not sure if it was the 4 colours or 0.1mm vertical .
@@mAssbagflyer you can do a lot though, seeing as it's one of the most popular printers for a reason. you can tweak and customize it to make it do some of the prints here at least
@@justaweeb9086 I'd say its popular because its cost, while yes you can learn a lot from enders, I had 2 original ender 2s, and I learned a lot but I love the workhorse that is my prusa.
I printed the engine on X1Carbon with PA12CF15 from Bambu and some random print in Place parts to see what carbon filament looks like. Yes. It was my very first Try. When I have Time and print small objects, I always print one or two more with some Distance to let the other part cool down (Voron, Prusa too. It doesn't matter). What I'm really proud of: About a year ago, I Printed this or similar Print in place engine (just one piece) on my fresh made Voron back in the day. It was so good, I could put it on my car and didn't spot the difference😄😄😄. Thank you for your Video. I love when you make it entertaining and very informative/educational at one time.
Look, I'll admit I'm relatively new to 3D Printing, so I don't know everything, but the Bamboo Lab printer is basically cheating at this point, because of its insanely high price point. If you can afford it, great. But unfortunately it's out of reach for a lot of people. It gives the idea that these models cannot be printed with any lower-end printer and that you need to spend thousands of dollars to be able to print these complicated models. I really wish someone would make a video, or video series, on how to correctly set up something like an Ender 3, Neptune 2/S, etc. in order to print models like these instead of saying "it depends on how your printer came from the factory" and not explaining any further, or by saying "if you want to know how I configured my printer, visit my patreon" or "subscribe to know how to set up your settings to achieve these great quality prints". 😮💨 We can use an in-depth set up video and then tweak it from there if we see our printers are a little different from factory. It's not that difficult... Honestly, I'm so frustrated with this. I get it, everyone wants to take their cut, but there should be someone out there willing to help... I can get everything else online, like how to design parts, how to select the right filament, how to treat and store the filament, heck , even how to make filament🤷♂️ and don't bother asking for help on reddit, because you get snarky remarks on how you don't know anything and how you should've bought a different type of printer, and how the printer you bought is a bunch of crap, etc, etc...
There are tons of videos on the Ender 3. Practically every UA-camr in the 3D printing space has done a video on it, but most of them are at least a year or two old. You said everyone wants there cut, and that's exactly it. The Ender 3 and other printers like it have saturated the market for so long that it's just not an interesting topic anymore for most "pro" UA-camrs. So if you want to see those videos, you have to crawl the backlog. This channel (Teaching Tech) actually has quite a lot of very in-depth videos specifically on the Ender 3 from the initial build and tuning to updating Marlin to installing mods to installing Klipper (highly recommended). There is a wealth of info already out there, and while it may not be the most recent it will still be very relevent.
I'm just running the default with generic Petg profile. All I've changed is the K factor to suit the filament (which I covered in the recent softfever slicer video).
I have just printed that engine on ender 5 pro with PLA klipper direct drive and pressure advance set (by your tutorial if i remember or maybe makers muse hack it) , and yes. There is need to clean print with a knife, set the proper temperatures (I was changing it while the engine was printing, because I saw that something is going wrong). But I was successful in first print in the first try, stiff but it spins. YES it is hard Print. On 80mm/s and 600 mm/s2 acceleration actually no infill (i set 6 walls layers), 0.4 nozzle 0.2 layer it took ender 5 pro 2h30min.
There are two wolves inside of you. One of them wants to make cute and cool gizmos themed around your favorite shows and movies. The other wants to build ghost guns. Both of them are dedicated to their mission.
I kind of wish you'd show us what to do when you fail a particular part of a particular print. Meaning, you mentioned in the video you kept getting a curl up that kept hitting the nozzle causing a failure, I have that exact problem with different types of prints. What do you do to stop curling? Everyone on Reddit everyone on UA-cam says lower the temperature raise the temperature, and I found printing inside to outside instead of outside to inside was the answer, but then one introduces more stringing problems because it finishes on the outside and doesn't cross back over the printed wall causing the string to be on the outside of the print. Anyway, I digress. Your prints look great, and I always look forward to a video!
I hope one day, there'll be many machines that will just take these STLs and print out great parts without fiddling with settings. Imagine if you had to adjust your microwave a bunch of times to get it to make popcorn.
So like some kind of AI that will generate the best settings for the kind of model you're trying to print and you can then copy those profiles to other files? Because I do think that it would be more of a slicer add on than a printer machine kind of thing. The printer just prints whatever the gcode file tells it to do depending on how you set up the profile on the slicer software. I think it would be a cool thing to have.
I got a question for the Chain Mail print, do you think it's possible to print it with a resin printer ? xD it might be a dumb question but i was wondering if anyone has tried that
I was printing functional Print In Place Engines off of my bone stock FLSun Q5 and Voxelab Aquila using cheap Matterhackers PLA. They were so easy to print, I was giving them out to my gearhead friends as trinkets. I think that egg test would be very interesting to print!
Yeah, I made that TIE interceptor they recently released and it came out great. I just bought their Easter set and made a couple of the bunny piggy banks and an easter egg. They took a while, but are very satisfying.
Hey there, I had problem here, I just bought cb1 16gb. I wasn't conform on what ŵas it rom or ram I was confused. And one more is it esstial or waste of money.
That g wagon is one of the most incredible models I’ve ever seen
Funny, I found the Pipbot the easiest of all these, I had 1 post that was a little stuck but it wiggled free. Side note, feels great on sore muscles, like accu pressure
I've been trying to print that little engine for over a year now. Finally gave in and used a raft and reduced to 110% 😆
So if the print fails we just need another printer 😂
That was my take away. Looks like a Bamboo lab solves all the printing problems!
the pip robot, the tank treads? I got it in PLA on the prusa mini, except for two treads, which only rotated a little. Apparently I either got really lucky or I have my settings really dialed in! :D
Lol, I printed that 3 cylinder 2 years ago with instant success as a 3d noob. On a Ender 3, two days old, stock settings with Jupiter pla 200 degrees. Guess that was a typical case of 'beginners luck'...
No, I did the same thing on my bone stock FLSun Q5 and Voxelab Aquila. Great test though.
Wanted to print the vase, but unfortunately SuperSlicer crashes (known bug) when enabling vase mode. Great opportunity to give Orcaslicer (Previously known as BambuStudio-SoftFever) a try. Currently printing after slicing without issues on my Ratrig V-Core-3.
I was able tu print the Clearance Castle under 2 hours in a new kit Mk4 with normal speed settings, gotta try the tank robot now
They're usually designed for 0.4mm nozzles right? I usually print with a 0.6 and the models tend to fuse. I'll try stepping down extrusion widths to 0.4.
is there a reason why u use PETG ist it in generell the better filament in comparison to PLA? are there and these days any reasons to use PLA? just starting with 3d printig and i always struggel wih filament i take or maby buy
I hate printing print-in-place models. My printer always messes them up :(
So if you want to print these you need a variety of printers and filaments... well, guess I'll stick to my usual blocky practical prints then 🤷🏿♀️
no... 3d prints are not the answer...
I was able tu print the Clearance Castle under 2 hours in a new kit Mk4 with normal speed settings, gotta try the tank robot now
The absolute best torture test you can do for your machine is this...Wait until someone contacts you to commission you for a designed product and a final print. Give them a time frame for when it's guaranteed to be finished, give them a price, and then go ahead seal the deal and take the payment. If, by chance, your computer doesn't hear you and go ahead and delete some of your 3D modeling software's important system files as a preemptive strike, try to print the model you just made. If your printer even bothers to power on, it will at least certainly find a few overhangs (at the 6-7 hour part of the print) that should have had support, knock the part loose from the print bed at around 90%, form a clog, hide all of your spare nozzles, and kick your cat just for good measure... But... after a week and an apology to the customer, along with a small partial refund for "Sorry about all of this!" you will get it working in tip/top shape to print that next Benchy or XYZ Cube...
Having a Bambu lab machine do torture tests is like having a Porsche drive fast.
I just ordered a bambu machine after having some tinker printers.. makes me feel good lol
Yes, because it always succeeded at all of them 🤔
I printed the tank on my Ender 3 pro a few weeks ago. It's converted to direct drive using the $30 creality kit and I was using the Chep fast profile just changed the retraction for the direct drive and increased the extruder temp. I used PLA and other than having an issue with the PLA being inconsistent and causing skipping for a section of the material it came out very good on the first try. I did have to break loose a couple treads and the main pivot took allot of persuading. If I were to print it with a better quality profile I see no reason it wouldn't come out as good as yours did.
Really interesting prints indeed! 😃
Thanks, Michael!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It's so cool to see you posted my vase! Thanks!
Good episode Michael. I've got some X3D rainbow PLA looking for a purpose so that slightly over engineered vase will get a go.
need help with The Torture Toaster i can only move the .5 and the .4 what do i need to do to make the rest move ?
Start with calibration of flow rates. Over extrusion will swell the parts and tighten the clearances. Part cooling will also have a bearing.
Great stuff Michael.. but my thoughts are.. most of us just have 1 printer only and you keep saying it didn't work on this one but worked on that one.. we all do not have that benefit and luxury to have multiple different printers like you, so could you please do this sort of stuff for an Ender3v2 and do them all with it.. as a lot of us out there use this machine.. or do a video for each of the majority of machines that people use...I am new to the 3D printing game but I love what you do and how you do it just some of it doesn't help me with my machine..... Keep up the great content.
4:18 So that's what it means when someone shatters you hart into milion peaces. :D
Not gonna lie, if I'd put this much work to make a shape I want and than the slicer will do it's absolute best to make the pieces as evenly spread as possible, I will cry. :D
That is amusing. That engine was one of the very first things I printed after I upgraded my Tronxy X5SA to direct drive. it worked first attempt.
This channel put "satisfying" right up there with "moist" for me.
I printed the 6 cylinder version of the Print in Place Engine , my problem was the first few layers it would come free, so in the end had to print it with a brim , them after completing worked first time. ( X1C combo )
I don't like it easy so I printed the Torture Toaster in 4 colours , and got it working down to 0.2mm , which on a normal clearance test can get the 0.1mm free , so not sure if it was the 4 colours or 0.1mm vertical .
I’ve printed the clearance castle and flowalistic mail on my Mini, both worked perfectly first time.
Not everyone can just switch printers... I wish you'd show getting one of these to work on the printer you started with.
You can't do everything on a stock ender 3. It's not a skill issue.
@@mAssbagflyer you can do a lot though, seeing as it's one of the most popular printers for a reason. you can tweak and customize it to make it do some of the prints here at least
He doesn't have time for that, he's a big time Tuber now!
@@justaweeb9086 I'd say its popular because its cost, while yes you can learn a lot from enders, I had 2 original ender 2s, and I learned a lot but I love the workhorse that is my prusa.
He does have videos on how to improve print quality on his channel. This is just a showcase of different torture tests.
Now we just need... an articulated vase.
I printed the engine on X1Carbon with PA12CF15 from Bambu and some random print in Place parts to see what carbon filament looks like. Yes. It was my very first Try. When I have Time and print small objects, I always print one or two more with some Distance to let the other part cool down (Voron, Prusa too. It doesn't matter). What I'm really proud of: About a year ago, I Printed this or similar Print in place engine (just one piece) on my fresh made Voron back in the day. It was so good, I could put it on my car and didn't spot the difference😄😄😄. Thank you for your Video. I love when you make it entertaining and very informative/educational at one time.
Printed the tank with phosphorescent pla and the x1c and had no problem, tho i printed it with a raft
These are all neat! I definitely see a few I would like to try. For me I like printing the Suprise Egg models. They can be quite difficult
Is a p1p really representative of a average printer though?
Look, I'll admit I'm relatively new to 3D Printing, so I don't know everything, but the Bamboo Lab printer is basically cheating at this point, because of its insanely high price point. If you can afford it, great. But unfortunately it's out of reach for a lot of people.
It gives the idea that these models cannot be printed with any lower-end printer and that you need to spend thousands of dollars to be able to print these complicated models.
I really wish someone would make a video, or video series, on how to correctly set up something like an Ender 3, Neptune 2/S, etc. in order to print models like these instead of saying "it depends on how your printer came from the factory" and not explaining any further, or by saying "if you want to know how I configured my printer, visit my patreon" or "subscribe to know how to set up your settings to achieve these great quality prints". 😮💨
We can use an in-depth set up video and then tweak it from there if we see our printers are a little different from factory. It's not that difficult... Honestly, I'm so frustrated with this. I get it, everyone wants to take their cut, but there should be someone out there willing to help...
I can get everything else online, like how to design parts, how to select the right filament, how to treat and store the filament, heck , even how to make filament🤷♂️ and don't bother asking for help on reddit, because you get snarky remarks on how you don't know anything and how you should've bought a different type of printer, and how the printer you bought is a bunch of crap, etc, etc...
There are tons of videos on the Ender 3. Practically every UA-camr in the 3D printing space has done a video on it, but most of them are at least a year or two old. You said everyone wants there cut, and that's exactly it. The Ender 3 and other printers like it have saturated the market for so long that it's just not an interesting topic anymore for most "pro" UA-camrs. So if you want to see those videos, you have to crawl the backlog.
This channel (Teaching Tech) actually has quite a lot of very in-depth videos specifically on the Ender 3 from the initial build and tuning to updating Marlin to installing mods to installing Klipper (highly recommended). There is a wealth of info already out there, and while it may not be the most recent it will still be very relevent.
can you share your P1P PETG settings? I'm having blob issues with my P1P and PETG
I'm just running the default with generic Petg profile. All I've changed is the K factor to suit the filament (which I covered in the recent softfever slicer video).
Another hidden app for the 3d printer youtube mafia to show their models. I am sick after years of this
Please elaborate...
I have just printed that engine on ender 5 pro with PLA klipper direct drive and pressure advance set (by your tutorial if i remember or maybe makers muse hack it) , and yes. There is need to clean print with a knife, set the proper temperatures (I was changing it while the engine was printing, because I saw that something is going wrong).
But I was successful in first print in the first try, stiff but it spins. YES it is hard Print.
On 80mm/s and 600 mm/s2 acceleration actually no infill (i set 6 walls layers), 0.4 nozzle 0.2 layer it took ender 5 pro 2h30min.
There are two wolves inside of you.
One of them wants to make cute and cool gizmos themed around your favorite shows and movies.
The other wants to build ghost guns.
Both of them are dedicated to their mission.
Printing chainmail is probably how the transparent fabric from I, Robot would be made.
I kind of wish you'd show us what to do when you fail a particular part of a particular print. Meaning, you mentioned in the video you kept getting a curl up that kept hitting the nozzle causing a failure, I have that exact problem with different types of prints. What do you do to stop curling? Everyone on Reddit everyone on UA-cam says lower the temperature raise the temperature, and I found printing inside to outside instead of outside to inside was the answer, but then one introduces more stringing problems because it finishes on the outside and doesn't cross back over the printed wall causing the string to be on the outside of the print.
Anyway, I digress. Your prints look great, and I always look forward to a video!
can you make your slides and stuff in darkmode its so bright for people like myself who never touch grass
Does the weight of the spool have any effect on printing? It wouldn't be a constant
For my printer torture tests are more terryfing than satisyfing XD
Excuse me
can you help me design a casting mold?
I hope one day, there'll be many machines that will just take these STLs and print out great parts without fiddling with settings. Imagine if you had to adjust your microwave a bunch of times to get it to make popcorn.
So like some kind of AI that will generate the best settings for the kind of model you're trying to print and you can then copy those profiles to other files? Because I do think that it would be more of a slicer add on than a printer machine kind of thing. The printer just prints whatever the gcode file tells it to do depending on how you set up the profile on the slicer software. I think it would be a cool thing to have.
I got a question for the Chain Mail print, do you think it's possible to print it with a resin printer ? xD it might be a dumb question but i was wondering if anyone has tried that
I think Uncle Jessy did it on a video
@@retromodernart4426 ohh neat I'm gonna look it up
Stop saying vase like that
It’s vays no vazz
Either or.
I was printing functional Print In Place Engines off of my bone stock FLSun Q5 and Voxelab Aquila using cheap Matterhackers PLA. They were so easy to print, I was giving them out to my gearhead friends as trinkets. I think that egg test would be very interesting to print!
Fab365 is great
Yeah, I made that TIE interceptor they recently released and it came out great. I just bought their Easter set and made a couple of the bunny piggy banks and an easter egg. They took a while, but are very satisfying.
@@seanvincent4016Thank you very much~ 😊
Hey there, I had problem here, I just bought cb1 16gb. I wasn't conform on what ŵas it rom or ram I was confused. And one more is it esstial or waste of money.