Thank you lunmad. Your You Tube videos are very helpful indeed. I am assembling a 1970 TR6P and had an infuriating leak from one of the pushrod tubes. now I know why!
Great vids Lunmad.....I'm from the Boro so I've found your ride out vids Interesting.I stopped using silicone years ago after a big issue wet sumping while out on a ride,an old piece of silicone got into the oil pump ball valve and that little bit of rubber kept the valve open!......so now I use Hylomar which stays soft....I'll see how that goes.Keep up the good work.
Remove the head. Ensure tubes can fully seat inside head recess (I.D. of tube is larger than the raise portion on the head). Reinstall the head without upper seals. Raise the tubes and use a gauge (drill bits work well) to find the exact gap. you have for the seal to take up. Add 0.025 to 0.030" for "crush" and you know exactly what to order. No test other test fitting, trial and error, or guessing "close enough" based on the gap or wiggle!
I use Yamabond for sealing metal to metal, like crankcases, timing and gearbox covers, etc. Beats the stuffing out of the old Hermatite we used to use! It comes in many brand names, but generically it's "semi-hardening gray goop". Damn the character limit...
Great vids Lunmad...I'm from the Boro so I'll keep an eye out for you.I had a big issue with wet sumping while out on a ride caused by a little piece of old rubber silicone In the oil pump....so now I use Hylomar which stays soft though Is more expensive....I'll see how that goes,keep up the good work mate.
@drackett19 Hi drackett thanks, on a brand new head the white cushions should do the job, but when a head has been skimmed (decked) the crush gap changes so when the head is tightened the cushion squishes out.
Silicone seal is OK for some applications, but there are many kinds so choose carefully. Make sure to use the oil-resistant kind. The kind that will keep your loo leak-free will break down and you will find it in the oil pump and every oil passage on your way in to replace the big end bearings. It comes in colors so make sure to clean off the excess well where it shows or it will make your job look mickey-mouse.
Hello Lunmad....thank you for your Videos,they help us a lot!!! I have a question.....on the bottom of my pushrods there is 1 small hole on 1 pushrod on the inlet and the exhaust...that means 2 pushrods with small holes....does this matter on wich side is the pushrod with the hole? Left or right? BTW i have a 1978 T140V
Hi oe6oaf :-) I would think the push rods with hole would go on the exhaust valves as some exhaust tappet blocks have an oil feed. They did drop this idea on later models. If there was one holed push rod on inlet and one exhaust I would presume it has been a previous re-build mistake.
Hi skotzyot :-) there are no stupid question, just stupid answers. It is silicon gasket cement or RTV specifically made to make gaskets, a slight smear is all that's needed.
Sure do miss him man, he'll live on forever in these old videos
Great video, man! No fancy b.s., just good pictures and information. Well done, sir! Cheers, from U.S.A.
+Anonymous
Hi Anonymous, thank you glad you like my style, b.s. gets people nowhere and there is far too much of it about.
cheers from Blighty
Thank you lunmad. Your You Tube videos are very helpful indeed. I am assembling a 1970 TR6P and had an infuriating leak from one of the pushrod tubes. now I know why!
Great vids Lunmad.....I'm from the Boro so I've found your ride out vids Interesting.I stopped using silicone years ago after a big issue wet sumping while out on a ride,an old piece of silicone got into the oil pump ball valve and that little bit of rubber kept the valve open!......so now I use Hylomar which stays soft....I'll see how that goes.Keep up the good work.
Remove the head. Ensure tubes can fully seat inside head recess (I.D. of tube is larger than the raise portion on the head).
Reinstall the head without upper seals.
Raise the tubes and use a gauge (drill bits work well) to find the exact gap. you have for the seal to take up.
Add 0.025 to 0.030" for "crush" and you know exactly what to order. No test other test fitting, trial and error, or guessing "close enough" based on the gap or wiggle!
I use Yamabond for sealing metal to metal, like crankcases, timing and gearbox covers, etc. Beats the stuffing out of the old Hermatite we used to use! It comes in many brand names, but generically it's "semi-hardening gray goop".
Damn the character limit...
Great vids Lunmad...I'm from the Boro so I'll keep an eye out for you.I had a big issue with wet sumping while out on a ride caused by a little piece of old rubber silicone In the oil pump....so now I use Hylomar which stays soft though Is more expensive....I'll see how that goes,keep up the good work mate.
Hi BostonNomads :-)
I have not tried it myself, but as I have nearly ran out of silicon I will keep an eye out for a tube and give it a try.
@drackett19
Hi drackett thanks,
on a brand new head the white cushions should do the job,
but when a head has been skimmed (decked) the crush gap changes
so when the head is tightened the cushion squishes out.
Silicone seal is OK for some applications, but there are many kinds so choose carefully. Make sure to use the oil-resistant kind. The kind that will keep your loo leak-free will break down and you will find it in the oil pump and every oil passage on your way in to replace the big end bearings.
It comes in colors so make sure to clean off the excess well where it shows or it will make your job look mickey-mouse.
another great vid! so the trick is to toss the white foam'ish cushions and just use the rubber o-rings and some silicone?
thanks!
Hello Lunmad....thank you for your Videos,they help us a lot!!! I have a question.....on the bottom of my pushrods there is 1 small hole on 1 pushrod on the inlet and the exhaust...that means 2 pushrods with small holes....does this matter on wich side is the pushrod with the hole? Left or right? BTW i have a 1978 T140V
Hi oe6oaf :-) I would think the push rods with hole would go on the exhaust valves as some exhaust tappet blocks have an oil feed. They did drop this idea on later models. If there was one holed push rod on inlet and one exhaust I would presume it has been a previous re-build mistake.
The ones with the small holes should be at the front on the exhaust side
i thought silicon sealer was brilliant it still brilliant but not the clear stuff as cant see where tiny bits end up !!!
Hi Joe :-) the secret of using any gasket cement is not to use too much and the first thing to do with the applicator is throw it away!
hi, maybe a stupid question but is that silicone grease or silicon glue?? does it cure or stay tacky
Hi skotzyot :-)
there are no stupid question, just stupid answers.
It is silicon gasket cement or RTV specifically made to make gaskets, a slight smear is all that's needed.