Good progress,Angus. The weakness with those later Allen type head bolts seen on the oil in frame bikes is when the rocker box bolts are torqued up they have a natural tendency to stretch and unload the tightening forces initially applied by the head bolts themselves as the piggy backed rocker box bolts pull the head bolts in the opposite direction. It is somewhat of a 'Heath Robinson' engineering solution. Those steel side panels would clean up and de-rust more thoroughly in a grit blasting cabinet. Also a dip in some hot water with some caustic soda or baking soda will help greatly in neutralising any battery acid deposits in the pores of the steel.(only the steel parts are suitable for dunking in soda solution,aluminium parts will dissolve in caustic solutions)
Thanks Howard for the tips. Yes I appreciate now the importance of the torque settings on this motor. I agree grit blasting the panels would be ideal but we came up with another approach which you’ll see in the next videos.
Hello Angus. Great stuff and thanks for sharing. A couple of observations. The two center Allen 7/16 head bolts need the oval bridge washer under them or you’ll crack the head from the uneven force applied when torquing. Check your parts manual. Also be certain to check the manual for proper torque spec on the head bolts as the inner two have a lower spec than the outers. And very crucial to torque the large rocker box bolts too proper spec as well. Lastly the speedometer drive is held in by a left hand thread bolt under the gear you see after taking the cap off. Thread a small machine screw into the center of the gear and it will pull right out. The base of the drive housing takes the same doughty washer as the fuel tank petrol taps. Put a new one in and it will be oil tight. Bless you and the family. You’ve inspired me too get my Silver Jubilee up on the bench and begin work this winter, which in Wisconsin is about 6months long
Thank you Michael for the comment and advice. Later in the video I did mention that I’d missed the bridge plate off as it didn’t have one when we removed the head. Perhaps you missed that but thanks for confirming. I will also check the torque settings as I can see why they are more critical on these engines. Thanks again and pleased that you are getting in to your own machine.
Watching all your hard work and attention to detail makes me rather nervous about my next project which is to rebuild a BSA A65T which has a lot of bits missing. Hope I can do it justice!
@@alexanderpotts7308 The channel email is bsapowerset@gmail.com - if you sent any content to that, I can create community posts to share with subscribers if you wish.
Those long rocker box bolts on the corners are 1/4" UNC, not 5/16", and the 2 centre studs are 5/16", not 3/8" so I hope that was just a slip of the tongue, because the torque figures you quoted for those would be excessive.
Thank you Rick yes indeed my mouth and coordination was out of control. I'll correct in the next video when I install the head steady. Thanks again for highlighting.
@@BSAPowerSet Easy slip to make Angus, when your head is trying to juggle all the things needed to complete the job, and give commentary at the same time.
Great job Angus. I'm learning lots of things.
Thank you most kind - glad it's of use to you.
Well done, mate. You're making a 'reight' job of it. Hope your buddy knows how lucky he is to have a conscientious bloke like you on side.
Hi Phil that’s very kind of you - thanks. Greg appreciates what I’m doing but he’s worse than me!
Good progress,Angus. The weakness with those later Allen type head bolts seen on the oil in frame bikes is when the rocker box bolts are torqued up they have a natural tendency to stretch and unload the tightening forces initially applied by the head bolts themselves as the piggy backed rocker box bolts pull the head bolts in the opposite direction. It is somewhat of a 'Heath Robinson' engineering solution.
Those steel side panels would clean up and de-rust more thoroughly in a grit blasting cabinet. Also a dip in some hot water with some caustic soda or baking soda will help greatly in neutralising any battery acid deposits in the pores of the steel.(only the steel parts are suitable for dunking in soda solution,aluminium parts will dissolve in caustic solutions)
Thanks Howard for the tips. Yes I appreciate now the importance of the torque settings on this motor. I agree grit blasting the panels would be ideal but we came up with another approach which you’ll see in the next videos.
Great work Angus, well done 👍
Many thanks Nic - getting there.
Hello Angus. Great stuff and thanks for sharing. A couple of observations.
The two center Allen 7/16 head bolts need the oval bridge washer under them or you’ll crack the head from the uneven force applied when torquing. Check your parts manual. Also be certain to check the manual for proper torque spec on the head bolts as the inner two have a lower spec than the outers. And very crucial to torque the large rocker box bolts too proper spec as well.
Lastly the speedometer drive is held in by a left hand thread bolt under the gear you see after taking the cap off. Thread a small machine screw into the center of the gear and it will pull right out. The base of the drive housing takes the same doughty washer as the fuel tank petrol taps. Put a new one in and it will be oil tight.
Bless you and the family.
You’ve inspired me too get my Silver Jubilee up on the bench and begin work this winter, which in Wisconsin is about 6months long
Correction, 5/16 center bolts, not 7/16.
Thank you Michael for the comment and advice. Later in the video I did mention that I’d missed the bridge plate off as it didn’t have one when we removed the head. Perhaps you missed that but thanks for confirming. I will also check the torque settings as I can see why they are more critical on these engines. Thanks again and pleased that you are getting in to your own machine.
@@BSAPowerSet Ha! Yes! I pushed send about 15 seconds before you mentioned the bridge washer.
Gonna be a great bike when your finished.
Cheers Mick.
Watching all your hard work and attention to detail makes me rather nervous about my next project which is to rebuild a BSA A65T which has a lot of bits missing. Hope I can do it justice!
I’m sure you will Alexander as you’ve given me some good tips. Patience is the key for me.
@@BSAPowerSet Well I've already built two up but that was back in the late 1970s early 1980s but as you say, "patience is the key"
@@alexanderpotts7308best wishes with it and feel free to use the channel email if you’d like me to share any pics in channel community posts.
@@BSAPowerSet Will do but how do I use the channel email?
@@alexanderpotts7308 The channel email is bsapowerset@gmail.com - if you sent any content to that, I can create community posts to share with subscribers if you wish.
Scallops in head steady allows access to the two centre bolts when re-torquing later on.
Thanks for the interest and comment - I’ll check this out when reinstalling.
Those long rocker box bolts on the corners are 1/4" UNC, not 5/16", and the 2 centre studs are 5/16", not 3/8" so I hope that was just a slip of the tongue, because the torque figures you quoted for those would be excessive.
Thank you Rick yes indeed my mouth and coordination was out of control. I'll correct in the next video when I install the head steady. Thanks again for highlighting.
@@BSAPowerSet Easy slip to make Angus, when your head is trying to juggle all the things needed to complete the job, and give commentary at the same time.
Original hammerite may do the job on the inside of the side panels.
Thanks Paul - we came up with another solution which you’ll see in the next videos.