@@justbeingreal5839 life is essential. Making money for a boss isn't. Have a family to protect. Don't give a fuck what you think, doing what I gotta do. You don't like it, too bad.
@@blackishpariah Wow! Way to bite a guys head off. I'd bet what he meant was that you shouldn't be involuntarily not working. What you choose to do to protect yourself and your family is, of course, your decision to make. Not everyone can afford to do that. Best of luck to you and yours.
These videos are always good, my team often gets tired of hearing me preach this, it’s great I can pull up your video to not only reassure them it’s the right thing, but have it coming from a fresh face! As always, THANK YOU!
You would probably shit your pants if you saw the stuff they do at the new company I started working at. Wish they cared about quality like you do. I get home from work and watch your videos every night, can’t thank you enough for the knowledge. Truly priceless.
Had a tech once tell me the company he worked at did the "blow and go method" meaning he would not use vacuum pump and just blow the air out of the line with refrigerant and go. He was probably the worst tech I ever worked with and told him anytime he worked with me we would use a vacuum pump. He only cared about getting off work to get to the bar.
A few tips from many years doing this. When deburring tubing, I do tip the tubing upside down in 80% of the deburring, but when it’s not possible I run nitrogen to blow out the chips. It’s critical to keep the system as pristine as possible with many of the mini splits, because some OEMs prohibit dryers in the system that would catch these particles. After I debur, I place my finger over he outlet to build up pressure and release the buildup and any residual contamination. I was also taught to reflare after a flare was compressed twice and always inspect the flare. I was always taught to use a mill file to square off the tubing after deburring to maintain maximum flare thickness. I also use flare gaskets on copper to steel connections. Most mechanics and supply houses don’t know what they are. I use a patch of duct tape to cover the ends of all tubing open more than 15 seconds or so. I never remove both caps on a dryer at one time, I remove one, make the connection, then the other. This helps reduce the adsorption of moisture to the desiccant.
I never went to hvac school, just work with my dad and thanks to this channel i have been teaching him many things that i have learned from you guys. You guys are the best! Thank you!
Way good advice... pipe contamination is easy for a careless technician. It has just happened once to me. I do not know how I got the dirt in the pipe but it cost me hours and service to clean the system up after that. I'm still nervous about the compressor to this day. Take your time on the installs. Best advice anyone can ever give.
I am always so grateful for you spreading your knowledge and helpful tips to us new guys. I have bought your AC SERVICE TECH. Book on iPhone and the really nice spiral paper back one. I started late in this trade because I gave 21yrs to the military, but if my school offered this when I was a kid I’d have a different life story.
Great video I wish I was in your area to work under your company's belt and would have appreciated it more when I was in hvac school being my instructor. So much for me to learn in the field and I am thankful subscribing to your channel because I'm an apprentice as you are making amazing explanations along with facts about the trade.
I'm definitely not an HVAC expert at all but I've just recently heard of running low pressure nitrogen through a system when brazing or even deburring for that matter. Working with my dad we'd usually clean the copper with a drill and wire brush, braze it in, and then leak test with nitrogen. We've never had any problems at all doing it that way.
@@channelname8623 simply stated true facts hackery comes in all sizes and shapes his dad's short cut becomes another's change out within 3 to 5 years down the road .
Yeah the problems won’t come until later down the line, basically you want any possible contaminate to not be in the system. When you braze there will be black flakes on the inside, you also want to flush and blow the system out on each side.
Great information & I learned a few things. I will say though the company I work for just has install crew (changeouts) get the system running & have service come in to take readings, adjust charge, etc etc
Have a Bryant 3 ton central air. Installed in 1983. Has never needed refrigerant and original capacitor. Temps today is 105 degrees and keeping the house cool.
I learned some of these steps at school, but in the field, especially in the summer, there is not enough time to do all these while you have calls waiting with no A/C. Worked in a few companies and they don’t practice that at all. If you take to long, you’ll get reprimanded. That’s what I’ve seen.
Yep, i work at one of those places, we slam everything in and run out, i get a phone call asking about how we are coming every 1-2 hours , we do pull a good vac, 500 microns, thats about it
100 percent agree. 30 year tech. Its catch 22. Do the job right, BUT get it done fast. I skip every step I can, let the Employer eat the cost under warranty call or call back. It will be months later and who knows or keeps track of what was done. Poor additude but after 30 years No mater how fast a job is done, its not fast enough. Or they know some tech who some were some time in the past did it faster and better.
I worked for a company that would send me to a whole day job on my own, call me off to do multiple callouts and complain when initial job wasn't finished and I had to go back next day. Boss thought he could do it but he was useless.
A system will not leak if all pressure switches and joints are brazed correctly and if your Schrader valves are screwed in tight with the valve caps on tight. That's why it's called a sealed system. The first refrigerant charge is supposed to last 15-20 years after installation before the refrigerant levels would ever have to be adjusted.
I like the fixed heads on the torque wrench over the adjustable. I find the adjustable doesn’t always stay tight around the nut. Fixed heads will never have that problem. Also, I like to use a file in conjunction with a de-burring tool prior to making the flare. Lessens the chance of taking too much material off when de burring
Great video Bryan I'm going to put the link for this one in my google classroom for my students so we can have a discussion on it since we are starting remote learning days soon.
In most soldering, quenching is verboten because it can lead to cracking. Also, most bolt manufacturers recommend lowering the dry torque spec by 30% when lubed. I’m not sure how that holds up with flares.
Cracking occurs due to thermal shock, so I quench with my field provided heat shield (rag) because it has minimal thermal differential after brazing and then move to a rag that wasn’t used as a shield but has been sitting out so it’s also not much colder than the hot copper. Sometimes though when I’m feeling froggy, I do like to quench with ice water from my cooler immediately after brazing, life is short you know, yolo and such.
Just commenting on the part at 25 minutes where talking about using sealant on flare joints: I'm in school for HVAC currently, and I'm actually in the module about "Copper and Plastic Pipe Basics." I've been taking a survey for my self. I'm trying to figure out if the book is rich or if the techs are right. Lots of people use dope. And NCCER approved this material which can be found in HVAC Level 1, Module 7, 03103 Copper and Plastic Pipe Basics, section 2 (or 3), page 18, paragraph 2. "The flare joint must be assembled using two wrenches. Do not use any sort of pipe thread seal-ant or similar materials on the face of the joint. Pipe thread sealant is also of no value on the flare nut threads. The primary sealing point of the joint is the front surface of the flare. The threads serve only to tighten the faces together with the flare nut. Adding a drop of oil to the back of the flare, where it and the flare nut make contact, can help prevent galling." -- directly quoted from the aforementioned text. 25:01
using a swage kit to deburr is way quicker and cleaner. for example: after cutting a 7/8 copper line, use the 3/4 swage, open it all the way and its a perfect fit.
I work for a moderate sized mostly residential company over the 20 years we have installed 1000’s of systems every one soldered with stay brite 8 410/22. We leak check with nitro No micron gauge we run the 4 CFM vacuum for a 1/2 hr to 45 min and open the valves. We have had very little problems with systems we install and no leaks on any joints that I can think of. It’s nice to do everything to the book but only possible when your in a classroom not running a very successful business.
Do you have a video showing how to fix a bad install. We had our new heat pump installed by a less than experienced technician and after watching your video I now realise how many steps that were missed or done improperly. I have been slowly watching many of your videos and have purchased all of the equipment needed to do a proper install. I'm a retired mechanical engineer and started doing HVAC on my auto repair projects after getting tired of having my AC recharged. This year we finally decided to go with a heat pump for our natural gas central air system. We live in the NW (Oregon). Since I now have the equipment to do a proper install, and thanks to you, now have the required knowledge to, at least, do a better installation job than the tech we hired, I would like to see if I can undo any of the potential long term problems he might have caused. At the very least I am going through and checking all of the system settings that you cover in this fine video. Any info on recognising and fixing a possibly poor pump down job would be helpful for my peace of mind. Thanks for teaching an old dog some new tricks.
Really detailed and helpful installation information, thanks! As a homeowner, how would one ensure that an installer is following best practices here? For example, the brazing practices seem important. It seems quite unfeasible to watch those guys doing all their work and possibly micromanaging them to getting chased away!
I’ve certainly had some homeowners that watch closely, one gentleman set a chair down and sat and watched the entire day, in complete silence. Fortunately I do what I can to adhere to best practices and human performance tools and such.
Having to setup a system in a 2700sqft manufactured home is one heck of a task just had my entire system replaced with a American Standard 5 ton two stage Gold 18 heat pump With a gold 18 variable speed downflow air handler as well as them replacing and running some new duct runs and for the life of me they couldn't get my static pressures lower than .9 total external static 15 supply registers and every single one of them was .52 and the return was .67 I'm thinking at least on the return side I need either another 25x30 return or what to do.
Down here in the land down under we still have 3/4 flares out there. I always use an automotive torque wrench with crows foot ends but I can hardly get those 3/4 flares to torque
Could soft silver solder be used in place of brazing? Staybright 8 stronger than braising? Doesnt cook king value? Use min amout of flux? Close gaps for proper installation? As per the instructions.
As usual thank you very much amazing seminar class I am one of your followers overseas I wish you make a video about the the torque wrench Numbers for all part of the AC unit Windows for outdoor split . So as any individual like me are you want to use my torque but I don’t know which pressure I should use or LB ? So is there any source we could find the torch diagram for each unit again thank you very much
For pressure testing, I've seen in Belgium that people use N2 + H2 as a test gas. This because the H2 molecules are much smaller and will show smaller leaks easier. Do you have thoughts on that?
Mr. Trappers, An interesting conversation although I would pan the use of H2. He Helium is the thinnest noble element that leaks much better than nitrogen, is non-reactive, leaks more at a lower pressure, which is why your kid's balloon goes limp. I'm guessing that helium leaks about 6 times easier than nitrogen. I suspect that high-pressure nitrogen is used for HVAC due to lower cost, and maybe to break weak components before the unit is placed in service.
Its Impossible to detect N2 on a gas leak detector the trace gas can be detected might be the reason? You can of course use an ultrasonic or liquid for N2 leaks.
I always thought my blower motor for the evaporator was to be cleaned of dust that sticks in the squirrel cage fins. Does any body spray it off regularly. I have seen ones that are so full of lint that the fins are flat not arcs. It is hard to do to clean it/them, what do you spray them down with. silicone aerisol ? one day I will get the garden hose.
Hi, big time follower here. Wish knew about you when I did contracting in the Cayman Islands. Question. How fast would one see vacuum or nitrogen pressure change if there was a tiny pin hole leak? Thanks
Depends on the size of the system/lineset(volume), it could be seconds or hours. Most higher end micron gauges have a leak/progression rate built in but if you have a large system it can still take time to show. And that's if your gauge is accurate.
Sometimes the shrader cores are almost impossible to get out due to manufacture or install, like there’s no room to get the remover tool in there.. otherwise I always pull atleast one shrader core
When your out in the field with no room to move and the sun bouncing off the building and all the metal surrounding you, it’s very very difficult to see what kind of flame you have. For me.
@Timothy Salomon Just make sure your pipes fit tight and prep the male and female ends really well and only flux the male end lightly-- that's all you need
Timothy Salomon definitely still a good idea to flow nitro with stay-brite. It’s liquidous temp is above the temperature at which the copper oxide will develop.
Hi I think if they want to prevent this problem of restriction of airflow with the filters I think the companies who build the equipment is should make their own filters by the way great
I have never seen one tech who flowed nitrogen thru a system while brazing who did not have a leak later. Sounds good in pratice., but very hard in practice.
@@1971omi Right. We did a huge job at a refinery. Thousands of feet of piping and hundreds of fittings. Engineers insisted on flowing nitrogen thru lines. We did. The right way. Ended up going back and spending several weeks fixing leaks. The few lines we did not flow nitrogen thru , No leaks. After that experience I said enough of that. I just purge the lines with nitrogen and then let it escape while brazing. No flowing nitrogen thru lines. By the way I have never seen a plumber solder a line up while water is flowing thru it.
It can be an issue when it starts to give you pinholes but it 100% will save you down the line. On that last joint or 2 if it starts to build pressure just shut it off, then blow it out after.
Number one thing that kills systems. TIME, Employers and supervisors pushing techs to get every job done as quickly as possible and skipping every proper proven method to make a system work properly. I hear about TIME and Productivity 40 times a day to the point I am about to quit . It makes this field very unenjoyable.
Yeah it's why it's best to start your own company so you can do the best quality work without pressure. I loved when I had my own company because any customer that wanted quick over quality I would refer them to the other companies. I would even sometimes tell customers I would take two days to do an install and they really didn't like it but I would explain that sometimes the extra time to remake the return box or other aspects would make unit last longer. Actually had to move unit from one side of house to another and redo duct and it took six days but customer was very happy since it was moved twice before and it was just patch job over patch job and I said I would only do it if we could do everything properly. Your work will speak for itself and almost all my future clients came from word of mouth since I did no advertising.
Question for Brian I'm a tech now but with the virus I'm back doing rough ins and change outs again. Which I don't mind I've used quite a bit I've learned such as sealing lines that will sit for a period. My question I see a lot of the guys I work with will use the caps and duct tape them to the lines is that sealing them well?
On a temp basis you can do that yes. No different than line set stored at the shop or in your van. All your looking to do is keep the moisture out. On the other hand if your already tied into the evap it wouldn't hurt to pinch it shut and solder the end with a shraider valve and pressurize it with a bit of nitrogen if its sitting for a while. Either way you go. Whatever is in the system will be pulled out when you pressurize with nitrogen to leak check and during evacuation. So just make sure its got something on the ends of your line set and your good to go.
Top 4 install failures! 1 condenser service space! 2 Condenser airflow space! 3 finish brazing, and pressure test! 4 indoor unit placement, and drains! Lol atleast for me. I did start ups for a few years! Lol
42:53 if you had a dollar for every installed system you inspected for the first time, and noticed there were no holes drilled to test static pressure, would you be a millionaire?
Comercial residential sure sucked But one good habit that stuck with me is wearing gloves at all times and use a face mask/cover When I go into a residential company they see me as a odd worker 😂
Thanks for the class. I needed this during lockdown
Kenneth Kilcrease HVAC is considered an essential job. You should be working.
@@justbeingreal5839 life is essential. Making money for a boss isn't. Have a family to protect. Don't give a fuck what you think, doing what I gotta do. You don't like it, too bad.
@@blackishpariah Wow! Way to bite a guys head off. I'd bet what he meant was that you shouldn't be involuntarily not working. What you choose to do to protect yourself and your family is, of course, your decision to make. Not everyone can afford to do that. Best of luck to you and yours.
These videos are always good, my team often gets tired of hearing me preach this, it’s great I can pull up your video to not only reassure them it’s the right thing, but have it coming from a fresh face! As always, THANK YOU!
You would probably shit your pants if you saw the stuff they do at the new company I started working at. Wish they cared about quality like you do. I get home from work and watch your videos every night, can’t thank you enough for the knowledge. Truly priceless.
Had a tech once tell me the company he worked at did the "blow and go method" meaning he would not use vacuum pump and just blow the air out of the line with refrigerant and go. He was probably the worst tech I ever worked with and told him anytime he worked with me we would use a vacuum pump. He only cared about getting off work to get to the bar.
A few tips from many years doing this. When deburring tubing, I do tip the tubing upside down in 80% of the deburring, but when it’s not possible I run nitrogen to blow out the chips. It’s critical to keep the system as pristine as possible with many of the mini splits, because some OEMs prohibit dryers in the system that would catch these particles. After I debur, I place my finger over he outlet to build up pressure and release the buildup and any residual contamination. I was also taught to reflare after a flare was compressed twice and always inspect the flare. I was always taught to use a mill file to square off the tubing after deburring to maintain maximum flare thickness. I also use flare gaskets on copper to steel connections. Most mechanics and supply houses don’t know what they are. I use a patch of duct tape to cover the ends of all tubing open more than 15 seconds or so. I never remove both caps on a dryer at one time, I remove one, make the connection, then the other. This helps reduce the adsorption of moisture to the desiccant.
Good job! This sounds like solid advice. Thanks!
It's those little details we forget that can be monumental or paramount to ace a repair or install thank you on sharing..,👍💪✌️🤔🖖💎😊
What is the cut of point (angle) before you ream and then purge nitrogen?
I never went to hvac school, just work with my dad and thanks to this channel i have been teaching him many things that i have learned from you guys. You guys are the best! Thank you!
🥶
Way good advice... pipe contamination is easy for a careless technician. It has just happened once to me. I do not know how I got the dirt in the pipe but it cost me hours and service to clean the system up after that. I'm still nervous about the compressor to this day. Take your time on the installs. Best advice anyone can ever give.
I am always so grateful for you spreading your knowledge and helpful tips to us new guys. I have bought your AC SERVICE TECH. Book on iPhone and the really nice spiral paper back one.
I started late in this trade because I gave 21yrs to the military, but if my school offered this when I was a kid I’d have a different life story.
Thank you for this detailed information, especially posting it for free like this. Really enjoyed the expertise.
Bryan once again THANKYOU for your Tutoring helping me to be a better technician !
Great video I wish I was in your area to work under your company's belt and would have appreciated it more when I was in hvac school being my instructor. So much for me to learn in the field and I am thankful subscribing to your channel because I'm an apprentice as you are making amazing explanations along with facts about the trade.
I'm definitely not an HVAC expert at all but I've just recently heard of running low pressure nitrogen through a system when brazing or even deburring for that matter. Working with my dad we'd usually clean the copper with a drill and wire brush, braze it in, and then leak test with nitrogen. We've never had any problems at all doing it that way.
@@channelname8623 simply stated true facts hackery comes in all sizes and shapes his dad's short cut becomes another's change out within 3 to 5 years down the road .
Yeah the problems won’t come until later down the line, basically you want any possible contaminate to not be in the system. When you braze there will be black flakes on the inside, you also want to flush and blow the system out on each side.
Great information & I learned a few things. I will say though the company I work for just has install crew (changeouts) get the system running & have service come in to take readings, adjust charge, etc etc
Have a Bryant 3 ton central air. Installed in 1983. Has never needed refrigerant and original capacitor. Temps today is 105 degrees and keeping the house cool.
I learned some of these steps at school, but in the field, especially in the summer, there is not enough time to do all these while you have calls waiting with no A/C. Worked in a few companies and they don’t practice that at all. If you take to long, you’ll get reprimanded. That’s what I’ve seen.
Yep, i work at one of those places, we slam everything in and run out, i get a phone call asking about how we are coming every 1-2 hours , we do pull a good vac, 500 microns, thats about it
Bottom line is greed , riding the pony till it keels over , worked over , ✌️👍💪🙏😔🤙
100 percent agree. 30 year tech. Its catch 22. Do the job right, BUT get it done fast. I skip every step I can, let the Employer eat the cost under warranty call or call back. It will be months later and who knows or keeps track of what was done. Poor additude but after 30 years No mater how fast a job is done, its not fast enough. Or they know some tech who some were some time in the past did it faster and better.
I worked for a company that would send me to a whole day job on my own, call me off to do multiple callouts and complain when initial job wasn't finished and I had to go back next day. Boss thought he could do it but he was useless.
I agree people toshit work and not follow proper practices
A system will not leak if all pressure switches and joints are brazed correctly and if your Schrader valves are screwed in tight with the valve caps on tight. That's why it's called a sealed system. The first refrigerant charge is supposed to last 15-20 years after installation before the refrigerant levels would ever have to be adjusted.
correct. my longest running system i still know about is 17 years, one run capacitor failure.
Excellent! Thanks for the comprehensive presentation.
I like the fixed heads on the torque wrench over the adjustable. I find the adjustable doesn’t always stay tight around the nut. Fixed heads will never have that problem. Also, I like to use a file in conjunction with a de-burring tool prior to making the flare. Lessens the chance of taking too much material off when de burring
Great video Bryan I'm going to put the link for this one in my google classroom for my students so we can have a discussion on it since we are starting remote learning days soon.
In most soldering, quenching is verboten because it can lead to cracking.
Also, most bolt manufacturers recommend lowering the dry torque spec by 30% when lubed. I’m not sure how that holds up with flares.
Cracking occurs due to thermal shock, so I quench with my field provided heat shield (rag) because it has minimal thermal differential after brazing and then move to a rag that wasn’t used as a shield but has been sitting out so it’s also not much colder than the hot copper. Sometimes though when I’m feeling froggy, I do like to quench with ice water from my cooler immediately after brazing, life is short you know, yolo and such.
Just commenting on the part at 25 minutes where talking about using sealant on flare joints:
I'm in school for HVAC currently, and I'm actually in the module about "Copper and Plastic Pipe Basics."
I've been taking a survey for my self. I'm trying to figure out if the book is rich or if the techs are right. Lots of people use dope.
And NCCER approved this material which can be found in HVAC Level 1, Module 7, 03103 Copper and Plastic Pipe Basics, section 2 (or 3), page 18, paragraph 2.
"The flare joint must be assembled using two
wrenches. Do not use any sort of pipe thread seal-ant or similar materials on the face of the joint. Pipe thread sealant is also of no value on the flare nut threads. The primary sealing point of the joint is the front surface of the flare. The threads serve only to tighten the faces together with the flare nut. Adding a drop of oil to the back of the flare, where it and the flare nut make contact, can help prevent galling."
-- directly quoted from the aforementioned text.
25:01
Shout out to the helper that found the leak in the evap coil. I'm sure he got some cudos for that.
using a swage kit to deburr is way quicker and cleaner. for example: after cutting a 7/8 copper line, use the 3/4 swage, open it all the way and its a perfect fit.
I work for a moderate sized mostly residential company over the 20 years we have installed 1000’s of systems every one soldered with stay brite 8 410/22. We leak check with nitro No micron gauge we run the 4 CFM vacuum for a 1/2 hr to 45 min and open the valves. We have had very little problems with systems we install and no leaks on any joints that I can think of. It’s nice to do everything to the book but only possible when your in a classroom not running a very successful business.
I do own a successful business with 160 employees. Try again.
We follow proper procedures at our company in which is successful. It’s not like it takes more time to do it right. More effort, yes. Don’t be lazy.
In the old days we uses to pull vacuums and do pressure tests with copper connections, instead of hoses.
Do you have a video showing how to fix a bad install. We had our new heat pump installed by a less than experienced technician and after watching your video I now realise how many steps that were missed or done improperly. I have been slowly watching many of your videos and have purchased all of the equipment needed to do a proper install. I'm a retired mechanical engineer and started doing HVAC on my auto repair projects after getting tired of having my AC recharged. This year we finally decided to go with a heat pump for our natural gas central air system. We live in the NW (Oregon). Since I now have the equipment to do a proper install, and thanks to you, now have the required knowledge to, at least, do a better installation job than the tech we hired, I would like to see if I can undo any of the potential long term problems he might have caused. At the very least I am going through and checking all of the system settings that you cover in this fine video. Any info on recognising and fixing a possibly poor pump down job would be helpful for my peace of mind. Thanks for teaching an old dog some new tricks.
Really detailed and helpful installation information, thanks! As a homeowner, how would one ensure that an installer is following best practices here? For example, the brazing practices seem important. It seems quite unfeasible to watch those guys doing all their work and possibly micromanaging them to getting chased away!
I’ve certainly had some homeowners that watch closely, one gentleman set a chair down and sat and watched the entire day, in complete silence. Fortunately I do what I can to adhere to best practices and human performance tools and such.
On the De-burring, would blowing out lines with nitrogen be acceptable if burrs got into line?
Having to setup a system in a 2700sqft manufactured home is one heck of a task just had my entire system replaced with a American Standard 5 ton two stage Gold 18 heat pump With a gold 18 variable speed downflow air handler as well as them replacing and running some new duct runs and for the life of me they couldn't get my static pressures lower than .9 total external static 15 supply registers and every single one of them was .52 and the return was .67 I'm thinking at least on the return side I need either another 25x30 return or what to do.
Down here in the land down under we still have 3/4 flares out there. I always use an automotive torque wrench with crows foot ends but I can hardly get those 3/4 flares to torque
Could soft silver solder be used in place of brazing?
Staybright 8 stronger than braising? Doesnt cook king value?
Use min amout of flux? Close gaps for proper installation? As per the instructions.
Great video alot of crucial coverage
As usual thank you very much amazing seminar class I am one of your followers overseas I wish you make a video about the the torque wrench Numbers for all part of the AC unit Windows for outdoor split . So as any individual like me are you want to use my torque but I don’t know which pressure I should use or LB ? So is there any source we could find the torch diagram for each unit again thank you very much
For pressure testing, I've seen in Belgium that people use N2 + H2 as a test gas. This because the H2 molecules are much smaller and will show smaller leaks easier. Do you have thoughts on that?
Meaningless to talk about atomic weights.
Mr. Trappers,
An interesting conversation although I would pan the use of H2.
He Helium is the thinnest noble element that leaks much better than nitrogen, is non-reactive, leaks more at a lower pressure, which is why your kid's balloon goes limp. I'm guessing that helium leaks about 6 times easier than nitrogen.
I suspect that high-pressure nitrogen is used for HVAC due to lower cost, and maybe to break weak components before the unit is placed in service.
Its Impossible to detect N2 on a gas leak detector the trace gas can be detected might be the reason? You can of course use an ultrasonic or liquid for N2 leaks.
I always thought my blower motor for the evaporator was to be cleaned of dust that sticks in the squirrel cage fins. Does any body spray it off regularly. I have seen ones that are so full of lint that the fins are flat not arcs. It is hard to do to clean it/them, what do you spray them down with. silicone aerisol ? one day I will get the garden hose.
What are your thoughts on zoomlock?
Hi, big time follower here. Wish knew about you when I did contracting in the Cayman Islands. Question. How fast would one see vacuum or nitrogen pressure change if there was a tiny pin hole leak? Thanks
Depends on the size of the system/lineset(volume), it could be seconds or hours. Most higher end micron gauges have a leak/progression rate built in but if you have a large system it can still take time to show. And that's if your gauge is accurate.
Sometimes the shrader cores are almost impossible to get out due to manufacture or install, like there’s no room to get the remover tool in there.. otherwise I always pull atleast one shrader core
Thanks for uploading this!
When your out in the field with no room to move and the sun bouncing off the building and all the metal surrounding you, it’s very very difficult to see what kind of flame you have. For me.
Don’t drink and install boys 😆
I use the hilmor pen to ream the copper that comes with my swedge kit.
when changing r-22 to 410 freon do you need to change TXV in all cases
Of course, what kind of tech are you ?
Betty Collins sorry but R410A is NOT FREON Freon is a BRAND NAME of DUPONT. Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have seen the evaporater coil and condenser coil split going from R22 to 410A. The pressure is much higher.
Not even a thought dude it’s a must.
Awesome video. Thank you!
I have been using Stay-Brite #8 for years now -- never had a problem, or a leak. Plus you don't have to run nitrogen.
@Timothy Salomon I most definitely use wet rags even with Stay Brite-- protect those TXV's and service valves
@Timothy Salomon Just make sure your pipes fit tight and prep the male and female ends really well and only flux the male end lightly-- that's all you need
Timothy Salomon definitely still a good idea to flow nitro with stay-brite. It’s liquidous temp is above the temperature at which the copper oxide will develop.
Thank you
Best class ever
Good tips
Thanks 👍💪
#1 never sweat off parts. What will happen when you have butane
Great job like all ways
Thanks again 👍👍👍
Brazing missed using the correct tip size. Many torch sets for domestic use are too small for commercial use.
Hi I think if they want to prevent this problem of restriction of airflow with the filters I think the companies who build the equipment is should make their own filters by the way great
And the previous comment I mean to say you are a great teacher and I'm I am learning a lot from . you thank you
carrier says 350 CFM per ton most say 400 CFM per ton testo says 450 CFM per ton for heat pumps what gives who is right.
You are the best 😊
Salamat 👌
I have never seen one tech who flowed nitrogen thru a system while brazing who did not have a leak later. Sounds good in pratice., but very hard in practice.
If you haven't seen it or practiced doesn't mean it is right. Take pride what you do regardless of others.
@@1971omi Right. We did a huge job at a refinery. Thousands of feet of piping and hundreds of fittings. Engineers insisted on flowing nitrogen thru lines. We did. The right way. Ended up going back and spending several weeks fixing leaks. The few lines we did not flow nitrogen thru , No leaks. After that experience I said enough of that. I just purge the lines with nitrogen and then let it escape while brazing. No flowing nitrogen thru lines. By the way I have never seen a plumber solder a line up while water is flowing thru it.
@@johnd4348 That is the dumbest analogy I have ever heard!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 apparently you dont know the definition of analogy.
It can be an issue when it starts to give you pinholes but it 100% will save you down the line. On that last joint or 2 if it starts to build pressure just shut it off, then blow it out after.
Wish I had and hour and a half to watch this... or anything
Is there a problem with taking out the factory air filter and install a 4inch mere 8
No
Number one thing that kills systems. TIME, Employers and supervisors pushing techs to get every job done as quickly as possible and skipping every proper proven method to make a system work properly. I hear about TIME and Productivity 40 times a day to the point I am about to quit . It makes this field very unenjoyable.
Yeah it's why it's best to start your own company so you can do the best quality work without pressure. I loved when I had my own company because any customer that wanted quick over quality I would refer them to the other companies. I would even sometimes tell customers I would take two days to do an install and they really didn't like it but I would explain that sometimes the extra time to remake the return box or other aspects would make unit last longer. Actually had to move unit from one side of house to another and redo duct and it took six days but customer was very happy since it was moved twice before and it was just patch job over patch job and I said I would only do it if we could do everything properly. Your work will speak for itself and almost all my future clients came from word of mouth since I did no advertising.
Good sir
Question for Brian I'm a tech now but with the virus I'm back doing rough ins and change outs again. Which I don't mind I've used quite a bit I've learned such as sealing lines that will sit for a period. My question I see a lot of the guys I work with will use the caps and duct tape them to the lines is that sealing them well?
On a temp basis you can do that yes. No different than line set stored at the shop or in your van. All your looking to do is keep the moisture out. On the other hand if your already tied into the evap it wouldn't hurt to pinch it shut and solder the end with a shraider valve and pressurize it with a bit of nitrogen if its sitting for a while. Either way you go. Whatever is in the system will be pulled out when you pressurize with nitrogen to leak check and during evacuation. So just make sure its got something on the ends of your line set and your good to go.
Nice job and video
Thanks for the visit
Top 4 install failures! 1 condenser service space! 2 Condenser airflow space! 3 finish brazing, and pressure test! 4 indoor unit placement, and drains! Lol atleast for me. I did start ups for a few years! Lol
What kind a joke is this??????
42:53 if you had a dollar for every installed system you inspected for the first time, and noticed there were no holes drilled to test static pressure, would you be a millionaire?
Would u have a vid about install a system and commission it. Its a lot so maybe take ur time to have it done.
How long does it take to pull a good vacuum?...
To 200 microns, 3 cigarettes or 2 beers or a long lunch. Lol
will answer in Q/A vid
I find if I pull a vacum for no less than an hour or more the unit performs much better.
Second time watching
Yes low flow
Liquidis and solidis snake!
Comercial residential sure sucked
But one good habit that stuck with me is wearing gloves at all times and use a face mask/cover
When I go into a residential company they see me as a odd worker 😂
Just keep vacing
Envelopes, silly. Not feathers birds have feathers.
How about teaching installers how to actually do there job instead of just being like fuck it we will just send a tech.