Small wet rags around each tube on evap coul and on txv's pull caps and scrader cores out. Rap driers close to drier body. Make sure flame never hits the txv power head . Always braze the suction first. Purging is good on new hard drawn pipe if you can't put 5 psi of nitrogen purge with nitrogen and use the vac pump. You will use alot of vac pump oil. Old line sets have to be flushed with rx11 or liquid flush. Use lots of nitrogen with l liquid. Use clean up driers if it's a bad burn. Acid way works also. Cut flare off and braze. Prevents headaches. On flares on mini splits you can cut flares of at the evaporator and swag with one braze joint. Flow nitrogen. Through. I always use 400 psi or more for pressure for leaks. Flare at a mini splits I use leak lock from high side chemicals at the condenser. Only rubbing alcohol can take this off. You do that at the caps to. Most techs won't know this and this stop the leaks on top of service valves and brass caps. So leak detection can only be needed at the evap return bends or the flare on a bleed externally equalize txv. Last would be at the condenser rubbing on the bottom of the pan. A coils that are old or slant have sheet metal and not aluminum. Some installers will not pull the new coil out of the case to make sure nothing is rubbing. That will cost you time and material. A little of arm flex or cork tape will fix that. Always use wet rags on plastic drain pans or condenser pads. Good vacuum of 1000 microns will make your system super dry and absorb refrigerant alot more easy!!!!! When in doubt on long Refrigeration lines use another vac pump on evap coil were sollonids valves and txv's are 1000 microns no less. This will make the competition die. If you need or don't need use leak sealer from Refrigeration supply distribution from ???? Will only bullet proof the system even better!!!!!
Brazing is easily the most satisfying part of the job. Nothing like getting a nice clean joint all the way around with a nice crown filling in the edge. Ive also found that placing an inspection mirror underneath the suction line service valve while brazing ensures you fill the entire joint the 1st time around. Since you cant see underneath when brazing, the mirror allows you to see you have filled in the area you cannot see with your eyes. Then you can move around and get the spots you can see
As an appliance tech dealing with refrigeration this helps. Was an Auto mechanic for years then went appliance and have to deal with refrigeration. I was doing things and never really understood why until i watched this video.
Work with Mr. Taylor on a job site issue. Guy is amazingly smart. Lol. Great guy, great team Kalos has and love all the videos you offer. Any chance you have any training on Novar systems.
Great, video. Thanks for free teach. I have a question. Some body soldering HVAC lines with Staybrite 8 and says it is stronger, cleaner and faster than cooper brazing. Do you think is it the right way and stronger than cooper to cooper brazing?
Wondering about the legality of S 8 also. Looks like it's frowned upon in residential HVAC? 10,600 psi pressure rating on the SDS. Harris says it's OK for refrigeration.
Doesn't brazing's extreme heat alter the properties of the copper and weaken it. Like it anneals if it wasn't already annealed? I've been hearing that soldering creates stronger joints when you use the right kind of solder.
Very informative video. Now, what do you think of the use of RLS fittings and the cordless tool ? I tend to compare the plumbing PEX fittings from Uponor and the expansion Milwaukee cordless toll as well. My question is : is the RLS jawkit8 tool along with its copper fittings a permanent substitute of brazing torch ? I’m talking about exclusively for residential applications. I will start HVAC school soon here and I want to focus on residential only. Your input will be really appreciated. I’m a new subscriber here . Thank you !
Short answer - they are a game changer for multiple reasons and so far seem to work great, but nobody knows the real world lifespan of the gaskets. The biggest difference in HVAC vs Plumbing is our pressures and temps fluctuate. The biggest resistance to this is the fact that a properly done soldered joint is 100% going to last. I think the time saving and risk reduction is worth it and would use press fittings exclusively if I was a tech. -A certified factory support rep and trainer for 5 manufacturers.
@@MR-backup I stuck my finger on the number 2 and held it. I then get several options like ² and ⅔ and ⅖ for example. I'm using the gboard keyboard thing on Android so it might differ for you.
@@HVACRTECH-83 The reason I was interested in using CO² instead of nitrogen is that CO² is stored as liquid when it's in a cylinder whereas nitrogen is just compressed gas so you get a lot of CO² in a very small cylinder which means it's more portable. To carry the same quantity of nitrogen you need a bigger heavier cylinder. I just wasn't sure if using CO² would result in an inferior braze or weld joint.
I do residential appliance repair and perhaps it’s a different ball game but I’ve never seen anyone run nitrogen when doing any brazing or soldering. They don’t even mention it at the manufacturer trainings. Now I wonder if the oil we work with doesn’t cause any issues if we don’t run nitrogen because no one in this industry ever talks about it where I’m at. We mostly work on R134A and R600A. The capillary tubes may be smaller so I also assumed we don’t do it because maybe it will bubble the joint. I’ve also been doing it without running nitrogen for about 5 years and never had any problems that I’m aware of. I’d appreciate an opinion if you have one on that.
@@whitesheatingairappliancer7101 I’ve never seen a aluminum to steel connection but I tried it once for fun and what worked for me was Multisol from solderweld. It’s tough for me to use but it also works for steel to copper. I only use multi sol if I don’t wanna apply too much heat. My go to for steel to copper is Sil Sol 56 and for aluminum to copper pipe connections I would only use Al-Cop braze. All from solderweld and they are all easy to use except MultiSol, at least for me
@@whitesheatingairappliancer7101 steel to copper was difficult for me for a long time but I recommend that you try Sil Sol 56. You heat up the copper a little bit and then focus the heat on the steel next to the joint until the steel is red hot, it should melt in around the joint perfectly. It never leaks for me if I do exactly that and let it cool down by itself without putting a wet rag on it. And to be honest, I’ll let even put Stay Silv brazing flux on the joint before brazing. It’s unnecessary but it works better for me.
Are you running oxy-acetylene or just acetylene? I use oxy-acetylene and a higher silver alloy and do the joint quick, so that might be the reason (if not oil)… I think gthose running air acetylene, with say a TurboTorch tip (probably oversized), are placing a lot of heat all at once causing much more oxidation inside…
@@EarlHayward I just use acetylene with a fairly small tip. The connections I make are smaller. The only other issue I’ve had is actually focusing the too much on the steel and under heating the copper. I’ve also had best results with the high silver flux coated rod. If I heat and clean it properly the joint comes out a shiny silver all the way around indicating that it’s unlikely to leak. With these joints I avoid cooling them off quickly. Just about every time I’ve done that it ended up leaking, sometimes it would take 15 min for the micro bubbles to form.
I think we all got what you meant at the end,lol, but in case anyone didnt know, oxygen is not mostly what our air is made up of, its only about 21 % of our atmosphere. Nitrogen is most of what we breathe at around 78% then the rest is c02,argon,neon
Gotta love the free school lesson.
Unfortunately this is one is doomed to become an archive; zoomlock is the future
:\
Wow, just wow. The guy is super professional!
I’m always learning something new. I’ve been brazing for around two years now and didn’t know you can braze dissimilar metals.
I’m just starting my career in HVAC, and these videos are very helpful. So thank you!👍🏼
Always appreciate free knowledge. Thank you.
Wish I found this lesson 3 days ago as I just finished my first brazing project. Insanely satisfying process lol.
I'm a 10 year tech and just popped in to see the tips. Good video as always🤘
This guy is super professional! Thank you so much
Brian always gets me motivated to crush HVACR!
Small wet rags around each tube on evap coul and on txv's pull caps and scrader cores out. Rap driers close to drier body. Make sure flame never hits the txv power head . Always braze the suction first. Purging is good on new hard drawn pipe if you can't put 5 psi of nitrogen purge with nitrogen and use the vac pump. You will use alot of vac pump oil. Old line sets have to be flushed with rx11 or liquid flush. Use lots of nitrogen with l liquid. Use clean up driers if it's a bad burn. Acid way works also. Cut flare off and braze. Prevents headaches. On flares on mini splits you can cut flares of at the evaporator and swag with one braze joint. Flow nitrogen. Through. I always use 400 psi or more for pressure for leaks. Flare at a mini splits I use leak lock from high side chemicals at the condenser. Only rubbing alcohol can take this off. You do that at the caps to. Most techs won't know this and this stop the leaks on top of service valves and brass caps. So leak detection can only be needed at the evap return bends or the flare on a bleed externally equalize txv. Last would be at the condenser rubbing on the bottom of the pan. A coils that are old or slant have sheet metal and not aluminum. Some installers will not pull the new coil out of the case to make sure nothing is rubbing. That will cost you time and material. A little of arm flex or cork tape will fix that. Always use wet rags on plastic drain pans or condenser pads. Good vacuum of 1000 microns will make your system super dry and absorb refrigerant alot more easy!!!!! When in doubt on long Refrigeration lines use another vac pump on evap coil were sollonids valves and txv's are 1000 microns no less. This will make the competition die. If you need or don't need use leak sealer from Refrigeration supply distribution from ???? Will only bullet proof the system even better!!!!!
Brazing is easily the most satisfying part of the job. Nothing like getting a nice clean joint all the way around with a nice crown filling in the edge. Ive also found that placing an inspection mirror underneath the suction line service valve while brazing ensures you fill the entire joint the 1st time around. Since you cant see underneath when brazing, the mirror allows you to see you have filled in the area you cannot see with your eyes. Then you can move around and get the spots you can see
What tip size you use and pressures
Great tip!
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!!!
As an appliance tech dealing with refrigeration this helps. Was an Auto mechanic for years then went appliance and have to deal with refrigeration. I was doing things and never really understood why until i watched this video.
This is very informative. Thank you
Outstanding class brother
Love this stuff Bryan !
My supervisor must have called about a few of us 😂
I know right. He seemed pissed.
Work with Mr. Taylor on a job site issue. Guy is amazingly smart. Lol. Great guy, great team Kalos has and love all the videos you offer. Any chance you have any training on Novar systems.
Great, video.
Thanks for free teach. I have a question. Some body soldering HVAC lines with Staybrite 8 and says it is stronger, cleaner and faster than cooper brazing.
Do you think is it the right way and stronger than cooper to cooper brazing?
Wondering about the legality of S 8 also. Looks like it's frowned upon in residential HVAC? 10,600 psi pressure rating on the SDS. Harris says it's OK for refrigeration.
great video, thanks for sharing!
And when is part 2?
Are you going t on moist the remainder of the class??
Very good lessons 👍
Thank you very informative
Thanks a Million!!
I wish I could've gone to this 😢
Doesn't brazing's extreme heat alter the properties of the copper and weaken it. Like it anneals if it wasn't already annealed? I've been hearing that soldering creates stronger joints when you use the right kind of solder.
Maybe, but never is it the annealed copper bursting that causes leaks, it's cracking or rubbing through or some such.
Regards from Bosnia :)
Very informative video. Now, what do you think of the use of RLS fittings and the cordless tool ? I tend to compare the plumbing PEX fittings from Uponor and the expansion Milwaukee cordless toll as well. My question is : is the RLS jawkit8 tool along with its copper fittings a permanent substitute of brazing torch ? I’m talking about exclusively for residential applications. I will start HVAC school soon here and I want to focus on residential only. Your input will be really appreciated. I’m a new subscriber here . Thank you !
Short answer - they are a game changer for multiple reasons and so far seem to work great, but nobody knows the real world lifespan of the gaskets. The biggest difference in HVAC vs Plumbing is our pressures and temps fluctuate. The biggest resistance to this is the fact that a properly done soldered joint is 100% going to last. I think the time saving and risk reduction is worth it and would use press fittings exclusively if I was a tech. -A certified factory support rep and trainer for 5 manufacturers.
Shouldnt have any issues using 15 with flux on cop to brass
Can you use CO² as a purge gas instead of nitrogen when brazing refrigeration pipework?
Thanks for the videos, I've found them very informative.
Co2,although you can get dry c02, it's much more expensive than nitrogen which is why we use it instead.
So, yes you can lol but I'd save c02 for the keggerator. Stick to nitrogen for brazing
How did you exponent your "2" like that?
@@MR-backup I stuck my finger on the number 2 and held it. I then get several options like ² and ⅔ and ⅖ for example. I'm using the gboard keyboard thing on Android so it might differ for you.
@@HVACRTECH-83 The reason I was interested in using CO² instead of nitrogen is that CO² is stored as liquid when it's in a cylinder whereas nitrogen is just compressed gas so you get a lot of CO² in a very small cylinder which means it's more portable. To carry the same quantity of nitrogen you need a bigger heavier cylinder.
I just wasn't sure if using CO² would result in an inferior braze or weld joint.
I do residential appliance repair and perhaps it’s a different ball game but I’ve never seen anyone run nitrogen when doing any brazing or soldering. They don’t even mention it at the manufacturer trainings. Now I wonder if the oil we work with doesn’t cause any issues if we don’t run nitrogen because no one in this industry ever talks about it where I’m at.
We mostly work on R134A and R600A. The capillary tubes may be smaller so I also assumed we don’t do it because maybe it will bubble the joint.
I’ve also been doing it without running nitrogen for about 5 years and never had any problems that I’m aware of.
I’d appreciate an opinion if you have one on that.
How are you brazing aluminum to steel or copper to steel?
@@whitesheatingairappliancer7101 I’ve never seen a aluminum to steel connection but I tried it once for fun and what worked for me was Multisol from solderweld. It’s tough for me to use but it also works for steel to copper. I only use multi sol if I don’t wanna apply too much heat. My go to for steel to copper is Sil Sol 56 and for aluminum to copper pipe connections I would only use Al-Cop braze. All from solderweld and they are all easy to use except MultiSol, at least for me
@@whitesheatingairappliancer7101 steel to copper was difficult for me for a long time but I recommend that you try Sil Sol 56. You heat up the copper a little bit and then focus the heat on the steel next to the joint until the steel is red hot, it should melt in around the joint perfectly. It never leaks for me if I do exactly that and let it cool down by itself without putting a wet rag on it. And to be honest, I’ll let even put Stay Silv brazing flux on the joint before brazing. It’s unnecessary but it works better for me.
Are you running oxy-acetylene or just acetylene? I use oxy-acetylene and a higher silver alloy and do the joint quick, so that might be the reason (if not oil)… I think gthose running air acetylene, with say a TurboTorch tip (probably oversized), are placing a lot of heat all at once causing much more oxidation inside…
@@EarlHayward I just use acetylene with a fairly small tip. The connections I make are smaller. The only other issue I’ve had is actually focusing the too much on the steel and under heating the copper. I’ve also had best results with the high silver flux coated rod. If I heat and clean it properly the joint comes out a shiny silver all the way around indicating that it’s unlikely to leak. With these joints I avoid cooling them off quickly. Just about every time I’ve done that it ended up leaking, sometimes it would take 15 min for the micro bubbles to form.
Wondering about brazing safety also, so you don't start fires in houses while brazing. Dangerous? ACR pro press much safer, but $$$$.
Finally got something to add to my telegram channel 🤣. Thanks Bryan
I think we all got what you meant at the end,lol, but in case anyone didnt know, oxygen is not mostly what our air is made up of, its only about 21 % of our atmosphere. Nitrogen is most of what we breathe at around 78% then the rest is c02,argon,neon
He said Nitrogen is mostly what's in our air lol
Matthew Taylor is the man! I wish Walmart would of been able to keep him 😒lol
Awesome 👏👏👌👍
Man good stuff
2nd year.... and work with guys 10+ years in the trade... and all these guys do is put caps and they get mad at me because i focus on penetration...
I did this in grade 7
❤❤❤
This isn't just HVAC only my friend