Stihl Pro trimmer REALLY hard to pull when starting... how-to fix!!! (Stihl 4-mix valve adjustment)
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2021
- Hey everyone!
I just picked up this non-running Stihl FS130R Professional grade trimmer. One of the issues I came across was that it takes an unusual amount of strength to pull start the engine with the pull starter. It truly is difficult to pull over.
This is a Stihl 4-Mix engine which is a 4 stroke engine, using mixed gas. As such, there are valves inside the engine that need to be adjusted.
Follow along as I diagnose the issue and correctly adjust the valves on this Stihl Pro trimmer!
Cheers,
-Dave
Excellent video. I think I'll go check the valves on my 4 mix pole saw.
Hey Fitch! Thanks for the kind words. Let me know how it turns out! I have the HT131 saw too and I LOVE it!
@@DavesSmallEngines The valves on my HT101 are perfect. Identical light drag on both. Buttoned it right back up with out adjusting anything. Not bad considering we bought it in 2006 when I was 64. I'm still using it fifteen to twenty hours a year, though it seems a little heavier than when I bought it.
I can not overstate how well you explained this. I know very little about small engines and you helped me so much. Thank you!
These comments are why I make the videos!
Thank you!! That was extremely helpful. I am the grounds keeper at a high school and the supervisor want fix the trimmer just to be mean, so I will fix it myself before the grass get to far out of hand. It is nice to see that there are good people out there that don't mine helping when you are struggling! God Bless You, And Thank you again!!!
You have done an excellent job showing how to do this. I waded through a few videos before I came to yours. I have a fairly new FS 131 that has become nearly impossible to start and I was not keen on taking it to the shop, both for cost and downtime. I do believe even this 67 year old gal can do this adjustment with ease. Once I get my valve kit, I am on it!! Thank you!
I have been struggling to solve the very hard to pull problem on my RS 110R and tried every thing .... except checking the valves. I did check You Tube and you did a great job of describing the symptom and the solution. In 10 minutes or so, I had my 110R up and running like new and such an easy pull to start. Think I will go out and whack some weeds. Thanks for the Video.
Excellent content, great edit...helped get my FS131R starting easily again... thanks!
Super helpful. Like how clean your workbench appears.
Best video ever for this trimmer. Thank you so much! I am now a follower.
I have two Stihls. One old and one used only maybe about 5 hours. Both have the hard pull problem. I am going to check this out. Thanks for the info.
Nice video Dave,there is a arrow on the flywheel,that you line up with the screw on the coil,to find top dead center.Per donyboy 73.
Yep - that way shows you at TDC as well but doesn’t guarantee you are on the right stroke. Sometimes hard to see as well so I wanted to show this way with the plug out!!! Thanks for the kind words, Jerry!
Thanks for sharing your expertise!!! These videos are amazing. Headed out to see if it works on mine! It's been sitting for several years since I got a KM90 which is my go to weedeater because I do lots of weedeating for long periods. Just wanted to see if my other one still runs and it pull a hard! Thanks!!!!
Thanks...working on a HT 133 Stihl Pole Saw - valve adjustment. Great video.
Thanks Nina!
This fixed my issue. I was getting pissed and this work very well. Thanks
AWESOME!! just what I needed to know....Some old lady gave me a stihl trimmer...Now I know how to fix it :)
Nice job Dave. Wonderfully presented video that helped me immediately. Love the way you illustrate the problem and explain procedures. This is exactly why my R 55 Stihl trimmer lanyard is hard to pull I had a lot of hours on it and it's never been adjusted. Thanks for the help. Really appreciated.
Cool fix. I learned something today. Thanks. You and Donny should collaborate more often.
More to come! Cheers!
Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge and experience,
Looking forward for your videos.
My pleasure!
Excellent video Dave! Most people can't start the big 2-cycles cause they don't know proper pull starting technique on the high compression engines. But this 4-stroke most certainly required a valve adjustment, probably the first one that it ever had to be honest with ya. I have a Honda 4-cycle string trimmer, I checked my valve adjustment, still was good after over a year of use lol.
That’s great! I have a few to go over this winter. Need to get my inventory and projects under control!
Excellent video Dave. It's funny to think that even such a tiny adjustment can make such a world of difference! =)
Yes it does! Cheers!
Thanks Dave! That was real informative!
No problem Aaron!
GREAT EXPLANATION !EASY!THANKYOU!
Exact problem I am having on an old KM130R (12+ years old). Ordered my kit today. Thanks!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!!!
@Dave's Small Engines I pull the plug and the engine spins easy. I put the plug in and loosened the valves and it is still very hard to pull. I should have the kit next week to set the valves just right.
Thanks Dave, glad I found your video...😀
Glad you enjoyed it
Dave, great video and nice score on a bad ass trimmer! I am ready to buy A Kombi and sell my FS55. I like the Stihl Trimmers and bought mine new about 20 years ago and it still runs like the day I bought it. There’s a lot to be said for using a good 2-cycle oil 😃
Hey John! Thanks for the kind words. I have a Kombi KM55 setup I quite like, but if you need more power the next step up is the pro level (KM90, 91, 94 + etc). My Fathers FS85r still runs the same as it did in 2001 when he bought it too!
Perfect easy fix, Dave 👍😉 Great!
Hey!Thanks!
excellent video, just bought a FS 131 R and apparently after 150 hours I need to adjust the valves....looking forward to use your video as a guide
Let me know how it goes!
Svaka čast dobar je trimer ❤❤❤
I have an old Homelite and I never had a problem with it. I like 2-strokes. Less to go bad.
When you run across a 2 stroke with the same issue please upload a demonstration. I have since gotten rid of a leaf blower because I thought the piston was scored from not running the fuel mix and not easily repairable...this video was good information!
Hey No Limit! 2 strokes don’t have the same issue. They use ports instead of valves - way less moving parts. If it was hard to pull over and it was a 2 stroke, you were likely correct at the piston being scored from lack of oil in the mixture.
Awesome video my friend its been a long time
Muchisimas gracias amigo .....!!! Fue de gran ayuda
Great video! Thanks!
I love that thanks a whole lot great video just what I needed thanks
Nice presentation Dave, thanks for the video sir. :)
Hey John! Thanks for the kind words.
Anytime bud 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing a great video
Your killing it Dave well actually your fixing it but yeah nicely done
Thanks Jeff!!!
Nice buy Dave. Excellent video.
Hey Jeremy! Thanks for the kind words!
Good info thanks
Great video Dave, I need to check the valves on my BR600 backpack blower, it has the 4 mix engine. Bought it from a lawn care company a few years ago for only $100 because it needed a little work so it is beat up a some since it was used commercially. Thanks for sharing!
Hey WildeFox! Let me know how that goes!
@@DavesSmallEngines The valves were still in spec, it looks like the crankcase may need to be resealed though, the bottom of the engine is oily. That's usually a sign of a leak, I found a video Don made on how to reseal a Stihl 4 mix backpack blower engine crankcase so I'm going to tackle that next.
@@wildefox1478 yep! It’s a great video. I’ve reseated 3 or 4 in the last couple days based on his video.
@@DavesSmallEngines Just finished resealing the 4 mix on my BR600 backpack blower and man that made a world of difference! Before and as long as I've had it, it had slow acceleration when the trigger was squeezed and had poor idle, must have been lacking in power too because man it runs like a top now! Lots more power, smooth idle and very responsive throttle, it accelerates immediately, so resealing the engine was definitely needed, first time doing a repair like this on a 4 mix.
Good job Dave I have same trimmer its a beast!
Hey Nash! Good to hear, I’m going to put it to work!
@@DavesSmallEngines I can't remember but if it has a solid shaft do not put any blades on it
Huge thanks. This helped a lot. Could you list the kit that you bought. Thanks
My FS130R was bought from a landscape crew about 10 years ago. It fires up 1st or 2nd pull every time I have tried since buying it. Ethanol free fuel is the only thing I can suggest. That thing is a beast! Has a different exhaust tone that I kinda actually like to hear, lol.
They are pretty sweet, eh?
😮 This was a really helpful video. I am going to be adjusting the valves and replacing the valve cover gasket on my Stihl FS 90R although it is running fine both at idle and when given full throttle. Prior to doing this work, I noticed that the screw on the valve cover was loose and tightened it. Just doing that made the trimmer run on full at idle and prevented the trigger from moving. When I loosened the screw again, it idled and ran perfectly. What would cause that? Thanks -
Nice job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great vid...thanks
.Definitely not rocket science! Explained beautifully! Mine is a FS45 10+ years old and never adjusted. Not sure is this model has valves but uses mixed gas. Gonna pull manual. Thanks!!!
What size feeler gauge was that?
Thank you. I couldn't find my feeler gauge so I just put my finger in the spark plug hole and adjusted as needed. It started first pull.
GOOD JOB YOUNG MAN
Thank you Sir!
Make shure you have it on top dead center there is a arrow on the flywheel
also to find tdc look on the flywheel for an arrow line that arrow up with the coil bolt
Ta for the video Dave
Hey Mick! Good to see you in the comments. Hope all is well!
Dave, I am inexperienced with 4 Mix; but IF the exhaust valve seat and/or face is carbon coated causing the tightness, will that valve loosen when used properly at full throttle? That is; the commercial user probably ran at lesser throttle openings too much while doing delicate trimming (puttering about) and thus the carbon. Would it be unnecessairly difficult to examine and correct the carbon problem? Should the exhaust port be checked and cleared of any hard carbon that might break free and score the piston, as with 2 cycle versions? Thanks!
Was it gonna die, when ya hit throttle? Clean, spark arrestor.
I have a 90R trimmer which is a 4 mix like this just smaller engine. I can't start it. Carb new valve adjusted timing checked timing wheel looks OK not worn out but only runs if I use my drill drive (the pull cord snapped because of the too many trying )but even if the engine starts, running really rough like shaking my hand, arm really . I'm a little bit out of ideas. Any idea from your side?
Can you use any feeler gauge or does it have to be narrow like that
That's awesome
Cheers!
Not Brass/ it’s a Copper Washer... set the valves at .004” cold
Ahh okay! Cool!
You can put a very very thin coat of form a gasket on that gasket, to keep it from leaking. Only if it leaks.
What was the measurement of the fealer gauge ?
The intake gets adjusted at 0.004 and the exhaust @ 0.008
I have the same problem, but once I get it started and turn it off it’s not so hard the second time to pull the cord. Would this be a valve issue as well? Thanks
I must be learning something from you because I was able to guess the fix.
That’s great!!!
Valve clearance which is too tight means less compression, easier to turn over. There is a small decompression device on the camshaft, if this is not working properly then it will be hard to pull.
what about 2 stroke engine? is it similar approach or..?
$100!? Think you had a result there!👍👍👍
Heey,Dave,I've never worked on one of those,thanks for the video.I also don't have one of those T27 bits,but maybe I should? :)
Hey Ryan - I highly recommend the T27 torx bit. Saves so much time! My Irwin bit *bit* the dust last night, have to order another!
@@DavesSmallEngines I just put one in my cart,it's not that I do much anymore,but the bit I have has been too short when I do need one.
If I don’t have a stihl gauge what else can I use ?
I don't understand how an insufficient exhaust valve rocker gap would lead to a harder pull. It seems like the smaller the gap, the sooner the valve will open and the longer it will stay open. How does that lead to a harder pull?
Exactly right, too tight means less compression.
right on! hope this works on my chain saw
Line the arrow up on the fly wheel with coil mounting bolt , on the proper tdc setting .
That way works too!
@@DavesSmallEngines I am a Stihl Platinum Certified Tech 40 years experience , Stihl expresses to follow the procedure to a Tee , because you will be adjusting the valves just prior to TDC very slightly. These are interference engines if the valves open even slightly to much they will contact the piston and break a ring land or a valve keeper and then drop a valve causing a catastrophic failure, there is a reason for the arrow casted onto the flywheel and it not for dummies...!
@@cbnx82703 yes sir! I’ll make that adjustment to my methods. Thanks so much for your time
@@DavesSmallEngines Dave , sir it’s your machine you do as you like but for customer equipment repairs while working in the industry for a cash paying customer and you do it your way and it comes back with a issue related to your described method that I described all of your fellow colleagues are going to know exactly what happened believe me I’ve seen it with new hires ignoring procedures and taking short cuts and ends up biting them in the Ass... I understand your procedure on your own equipment is your prerogative...!
@@cbnx82703 I appreciate it, I’ll do that from now on! I am learning every day.
Valves adjusted correctly, cord still hard to pull. What else to do? Stihl 4-mix is 15 years old.
Nice video Dave, I have a Husqvarna 128cd weedwacker 2 cycle that has the same hard to pull start. Any ideas what that would be? Removing the spark plug is very easy to pull. Thanks Dave.
Hey Matt! I believe that is a 2 stroke unit, correct? Pop off the muffler and see if the piston is scored up at all. Keep me posted, we can figure it out!
@@DavesSmallEngines not that bad but I ordered a new one this week along with a cylinder. When I remove the old one anything I should look for?
Just stumbled onto your channel and watched this video. I just got a free Stihl FS110R. Pulling cord compression feels fine. Missing gas cap, primer bulb had tape covering large hole with cracks all around. Can’t wait to dig into my first 4-mix engine! Surprised to see only one tool needed to tighten/loosen valves. What holds the adjustment once done? I have a Poulan 3314 chainsaw with extremely difficult pull and jerking back out of my hand. Did get it running but couldn’t do it consistently. Checked flywheel-crankshaft mating (NOT a key) and it looks fine. Any suggestions as to why timing seems off so engine is firing before TDC? Piston and cylinder look fine through intake and exhaust ports - no scoring I can see. One other thing - could you increase your recording volume a bit? Thanks! Subbed.
Hi Rein! Thanks for the sub! Did you get into the 4 mix? The tension on the valve spring and the nut keeps the proper tension on the rocker arm.
Not sure about the Poulan, I have only worked on a couple of those and realized I would rather work on Stihl/Echo/Husky stuff.
I would be looking at the flywheel like you did… no key? How is it aligned? If that’s all good I’d check out the coil.
I’m looking into a lapel mic!
Cheers
Dave's Small Engines Haven’t gotten into the 4-mix yet - working on 3 Poulans and a Craftsman all the same except for cc and bar/chain configuration. Got the 2nd one going and it’s also really difficult to pull but at least it doesn’t jerk back so timing is ok. I’ve done a lot more research and suspect these all come with two issues from the factory. One is plug gap in owner’s manual is.025 and they start cold and hot better at .030. The other issue is air starvation due to bad filter cover design. The fix seems to be creating one or more holes in the filter cover more or less aligned with the strat throat. I’m going to try the larger gap first this morning to see what difference that makes and then drill a 3/4 inch hole in the filter cover. There is no separate crank/flywheel key on these - the flywheel has a place where there is an odd looking protrusion which aligns with the crank slot. One other thing that occurs to me is that because the engine isn’t firing right away on first or second flywheel revolution maybe the starter sprocket isn’t being disengaged immediately because the flywheel pawls aren’t retracting yet. Thoughts on that? I had a Stihl 028 many years ago that was not nearly so difficult to pull over.
@@Rein_Ciarfella hmm… I’m not overly sure. Does the chain move when you pull it over?
Dave's Small Engines I’ve tried with brake on for safety reason but then tried with brake off and there seems to be a very slight improvement, but not enough to really make a difference. In between my other work today (pastry prepping - I’m a baker working out of my home) I’ll be doing the mods already mentioned to see what differences may happen. I should also mention I cleaned this 2nd Poulan up completely prior to starting to work on it and did a full service including fuel lines, primer bulb, fuel filter, cleaned magneto and flywheel surfaces and gapped at .010, pulled and disassembled carb, cleaned by spraying carb cleaner and inspected diaphragms which were both good. Washed out air filter multiple times and dried well. Cleaned out the dry fuel tank, filled with fresh 40:1 premix, filled bar oil. Bar and chain cleaned as well. Once I get this thing running right the only other thing I need to do is sharpen the chain. Waiting now for arrival of my first Stihl 2 in 1 sharpening tool and a 15L ultrasonic cleaner! 😁👍🔧🧰 Oh, and I’ve also got a tach and T-handled Torx drivers on order. Every time I think I have enough tools I realize I want to do a more professional job. 😉
My STIHL FS 55 R single cylinder two stroke engine is hard to pull. How can I fix it
Nice video, quick question I have the same problem, but when I removed the spark plug the cord still hard to pull, what it can be?
Hmm, could be a few things. Clutch seized, bad bearings maybe? Or valves very tight.
WHATS THE VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS?
Nice fix Dave . Are you a left hander.
South paw!
Isn’t there some type of mark on the flywheel that you can line up to find trx?
That’s tdc !
I same issue with br430 2 stroke blower , hard to pull with spark plug in ,hard to pull with muffler removed ,
but with spark out easier to pull and piston moves with muffler in, recoil cord work fine .piston slight scored 4 vertical scratches, exhaust side , but it moves fine with spark plug out , would seals cause this any thoughts to main culprit don’t understand the science of the 2 stroke to what would cause this fault to only apply with spark plug in any ideas
Sounds like the piston is scored up!
Love your videos! I was hoping you can help me I have a stihl blower BG56C that starts and when I push on the trigger it dies. I clean the exhaust screen I adjusted the carb I clean the carb replaced the fuel and still the same. Any other ideas on what it maybe?
Hey Jaime. Thanks for the kind words! Sounds like a carb adjustment issue to me. How old is it? What kind of fuel do you use (ethanol added or non?). Have you checked your fuel filter?
@@DavesSmallEngines I'm not sure how old I'll check when I get home. I only use the premix fuel. I do need to check the fuel filter. And you thank you so much for responding so quickly
@@jaimepadilla9548 no problem! What are your carb screws set at?
@@DavesSmallEngines I'm not sure 🤔
@@jaimepadilla9548 If carb settings do not resolve, there may be a leak in fuel line letting air in. Inside the carb, there may be a blocked inlet screen.
I work on them every day
So I have a question wouldn’t a rocker that is to tight be a cause of low compression as it would be opening the valve a bit to early or holding it slightly open all the time where as a rocker that’s to loose not be opening valve quick enough or not at all therefore causing it to be hard to crank
No kidding!
The video made me think the tight valve was causing the hard crank when in fact it’s the loose valve right?
Maybe somebody already asked this, but what if I have a 2cycle Stihl which is having difficulty pulling as well? Hey, my case is the KM 110R
I have this problem with a 2 stroke any suggestions?
Hey there! Hmm… could be a bad crank bearing or the piston / cylinder are scored. Pull the muffler off and see if there’s any scoring!
Thanks Dave, the problem is fix turns out it was a compression problem
On these, isn’t there also a decompression “switch” attached to the crank that releases some pressure?
Yes its in the back on the round cam gear behind that 4 bolt cover is,,plus scrotched cylinder walls can cause this problem to
Nice fix Dave. Micro valves need micro adjustments. If our small engines sounded in real life like they do on video they would all get dumped.😂
Sounds sweet to my ears!
@@DavesSmallEngines No offence intended. I was just saying that any engine,(even brand new ) sounds very different on video
YOU GOT A GOOD DEAL FOR $100.
Yes I did!
There is a arrow on the flywheel after the magnet for tdc
You can put the spark plug boot on before you replace the engine cover and you do not need to remove before you remove the engine cover either... !!!
Cool!
Feeler Gauge size
This how wee did ..
What size filler gage
Gauge supplied with RS 110 is stamped 10 but no units. It measures 0.010 mm or about 4 thousands.
Great video but actually there a timing mark on the flywheel there an arrow that lines up with a bolt head 😳
Yes there is! I’ll make another video using this method as well.
@@DavesSmallEngines is it replacing the plastic cam
what’s the device they connected the 8 mm socket too the bar and then to the spanner
what the name of those type of spanners that can take different bits wow
complete newbie go easy 5.56 on your time line wow great video
Hey Paul! Its a 1/4-inch Hex Shank to 1/4-inch Socket Adapter. And then its a 1/4-inch hex mini ratchet. Thanks for watching!
@@DavesSmallEngines thanks so much for the information would took me weeks to figure that out , much appreciated take care Dave
No you have a louse valve on the ex valve
you stole that for 100 bucks! good deal on the FS130. I run two of the KM130's with a trimmer and edger attachment. That way if I have one power head go down during our day we still have the other to finish out customer yards.
Hey there! 4 issues I've come across with it... muffler bolts seized and had to be re drilled + tapped, carb purge bulb, valves, pull cord slack. It's good to go now!
I just don't get why so many people have such a problem with something as simple as valves 😔
It's above and beyond the comfort level for most people I would guess.
The valve need fixing
Guess you couldnt say what the gap is supposed to be 10 12 15 thousands
I’m not sure - it came in the kit from Stihl. I’d have to look it up!
It says 10 stamped right thru the gauge. Since 10 mm is almost a half inch, it must be 0.010.
The stamping on my Stihl gauge shows 10. When I measure the thickness, it reads 0.010 mm. Or for old time folks, it is between 3.5 and 4 thousands. Probably closer to 4 thousands.
@@whale508 I think you math is correct.
@@alext8828 Actually, the number in millimeters is not correct. I should have typed 0.1mm which is 4 thousands of an inch.