Hi Dan, OK...!!! Back to the tough training, tomorrow morning 5 O'clock AM..... 😂😂 It's nice to slowly be back on the Tube, maybe not as intensive as before but more regularly, Thanks for the warm welcome....
Thank you for my first lesson in electronics. I was looking for a solution for my Siemens CF834AGB1/02 microwave error code E1007 & E1006, but can’t find any🥲 I send it to a technical company but still no positive results. Now I like to fix it myself, but I don’t know where to start. Hope to see and learn more from you. Your explanations are very clear and good to follow. A good teacher🤩👍
I am really glad to see you again Pierre. I do not pretend to be able to fix any electronic appliance so I mostly leave them alone. I hope we will be seeing you again. Thanks for the video.
Hi Harold, Thanks for the welcoming comment, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... 😊👍 I really hate to see fixable things ending up in landfills....
Good to see you again Pierre, I don't have the patience to fix my microwave but I did fix my toaster a week ago, lol, it works better than ever now. Keep smilin
Thanks, It's great to be back.... I also missed being present on the Tube.... You can expect some more videos, not as regular as previously, but, quite more often.... Cheers, Pierre
Thanks for your comment... It's possible to repair those inverter microwaves if you have some basic knowledge in electricity and electronics. Using a good logic debugging technique will do the rest....
Thanks, It's great to be back.... I also missed being present on the Tube.... There may not be a very regular flow of new videos, but, I'm planning to be more present than the las 3+ last years. The family is doing fine.... Cheers, Pierre
Thanks for the welcoming comment, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... 😊👍 It was also great to enjoy a long break from creating content, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... Phillippe and I are still meeting on a regular basis, and, he's doing great also...
Hi Pierre, so good to se a video from you again, nice repair instead of just buying a new one, but 99% can't do that unfortunately, I was thinking of how you where getting along last week, but haven't got to write to you. All the best my friend and a good old handmade thumbs up to you.
It's great to be back.... I've always been reluctant to throw away something that could be fixed, that should help solving the garbage disposal problem...... 😉 Things are going fine over here, just standard issues, appart from the pandemic that disturbed the daily routine a little.
@@LgosseuxDbois-TheWoodpecker Si le fusible est toasté, il est possible que tu trouves des composants défectueux sur le circuit de haut voltage, commence par vérifier le transistor IGBT sur le heat sink....
@Pierre's Garage Ben non Pierre, c'est la fusible thermique. Renée à fait fondre de la cire pendant plus qu'une demi-heure, on ne pouvait plus toucher aux micro-ondes tellement qu'il était chaud...
Félicitations Pierre pour cette excellente vidéo très détaillée de ce four micro-ondes! J'suis en attente d'un interrupteur primaire de remplacement, même modèle que toi!
Bonjour Alain, Merci pour le commentaire, ça fait toujours plaisir d'entendre que le travail que demande une video qui se veut instructive soit apprécié par des auditeurs tel que vous.... J,espère que vous réussirez à remettre votre micro-onde en marche... 👍👍
Pierre! I missed hearing from you, glad to see you back in the game. I totally agree that taking the time to try repairing stuff is the best course, our society throws out too many still-serviceable items. It seems like relays are a common failure point, as I've had to replace them in kitchen oven controls too due to burnt contacts. Super happy to see you again! 😃
Hi Everett, Always a pleasure to hear from you, hope the rest of the family is also going great... ! The break from producing was nice, the goal now is to get back at a more relax pace, got a few video projects brewing, to be continued.... Electronics was my job for the first 20 years I was employed, starting at 18... Then with different training, it evolved to other types of works being self employed. You shop is getting operarionnal, I understand that with a young family your time is quite limited for "Extras" Cheers, Pierre
Hi Brian, So sorry to hear about baily. It's great to be back, possibly not as actively as previously, but, on a more regular basis. Thanks for tuning in.... Pierre
So nice to see you again, Pierre. It's been a long while. Some very good tips there, appreciate them all, thank you. Hope all is well with you and your family.
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank you, Pierre. All is well here. New Grandson will be one in a few weeks. Time flies! I know you are just getting back after some time off. Whenever you get a chance, would love to hear an update on how your geothermal system is working out for you.
@@Hey_Its_That_Guy Apart from a start capacitor that failed on the main compressor, that by the way led to ruining the compressor... !!! The waranty covered the material but not the man power, asside from this, it performs very good for cooling in the summer and heating in the winter, including the separate garage about 25 feet from the house. The cost in energy including all, is about one third or better than what it would cost without it... So far so good...
Pierre, Awesome to see you back 👍👍. Nice trouble shooting and repair job. That name on the bottom of the relay may have explained the reason for failure... ATB....Dean
On pourrait dire que n'importe quel singe pourrait réparer des micro-ondes.... lol Thanks, It's great to be back.... I also missed being present on the Tube....
You can look on the relay itself for the number, if it's similar to what I repaired in the video it should be " JQC-25F-18 " or very close to it, it's available on eBay from many suppliers, price should be no more than 2 to 3$ each plus shipping not more than 4 to 5$. Let me kno how it goes for you finding it...
A little in the shop, a lot in front of the computer for editing.... 🤢🤢😉👍 I'm mostly an eternal garbage picker, it's a shame to see something good looking going to the trash for destruction. By the way nice work on your taper attachement, seems to be going great so far, looking for some first tests.... 😊😊
Thank you very much this weekend i find i need to watch you. My panasonic mw high voltage part is different but i need to follow your steps. I hope i dont need the relay but will see. I am in the UK☺
Thanks for viewing and for your comment.... The relay is quite easy to get and inexpensive, anyway, if you feel like it, let me know what you find... 👍👍
Thanks for the kind words, I missed being present on the Tube. I'll be present once in a while as I feel I got something that could be interesting and share with you out there... 🙂👍
Well, well, well - good to see you Pierre :) Takes me back to long ago when I did some microwave fixes. This was a useful diagnostic breakdown and probably super useful for many folks. Nice job. Wish I could put out something new one day.
Hi Chris, This was an enjoyable break from video production, time to get back at brewing new projecs, possibly more relaxe than before, though.... Hope you're doing fine down there... Cheers, Pierre
Missed both you guys. It’s like hearing from old friends you never met but were a big part of my life. Several of the machining community have dropped off the earth. People change and interest evolve but it’s nice to see you both post once again.
@@FrancisoDoncona Those are some of the "Good feeling" comments from from viewers, it's interesting to hear from people that sees and hears us producers, but, that we often have no idea who is really viewing at the other end, if you can understand what I'm trying to express.... Guess I'll get to make some more videos on a more relax basis, just for the fun of it...
It's better to get the same item or a similar one in order to respect the same power output handling capacity. Normally you shoud be able to find something similar or direct replacement since there is a good choice of different ones available. Thanks for your comment.... 🙂🙂
NICE TO SEE YOU BACK AGAIN. I think I've seen 2 of those exact models (or ones that look nearly identical to it) tossed out once and "rescued" them. When I tested them, if I ran them on full power, the transformer on the inverter board smoked. And if I ran them on 50% power, the coil in the transformer REALLY smoked. Because the windings in the coil were clearly shot, I didn't trouble shoot any further than that, and they went back to where I found them! Was a really odd failure for it to smoke MORE when running on lower power setting - obviously the main switching semiconductor in the inverter was really f'ed!
Once the transformer has started to toast, there is nothing to do in order to save it, there is formation of carbon that will snowball with use and get completely short as it goes. Quite a few years ago I've seen a HV board with a burnt transformer, at that moment since it wasn't my oven I wasn't gonna bother trying to fix it, it would have been interesting to investigate... The problem is the cost of a new HV board, if someone knows where to get a new board at a decent price, I'll add it up in the comment section. It's always nice to save an appliance from the dumpster mostly if it only require only a minor repair. Thanks for your comment...
Excellent repair video. I have the same model and same issue. I will check the relay if it is faulty. Please infor..where have you downloaded the seevice manual. Thanks
Hope you solve your problem the easy way.... Try this link and just type in one of the numbers of models in the list from the description section or the direst model number, it should give you a proper manual.... www.manualslib.com/ Thanks fo viewing and for your comment, Cheers, Pierre
Merci/! Ours gave the H98 error, tried a power cycle then dropped it on the floor a few times because you know as well as I fails are 90% + due to contact failures and it started working again! I was afraid to run the unit with the cover off and now suspect/hope it is that relay as you can hear an arcing sound as it cooks... possibly the relay contacts buzzing or could be something else. Thanks to your video I will crack it open and try to isolate where the arcing sound source is - again hoping it is the relay. If I don't follow up in the next month or so, it was and thanks again in advance!
Bought a completely different used working model for $40 yesterday with mostly identical parts according to Panasonic. Tried the magnetron first, then the high voltage board and BINGO - wife is happy again. Un gros merci pour votre vidéo!
Thanks for the welcoming comment... It was also great to enjoy a long break from creating content, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope...
Thanks for the instructive video. Maybe you shoukd mention to discharge the high voltage capacitors by shorting them before working on the inverter pcb?
I haven't listened to the video since quite a while, but if my memory is not failing me there is a brief mention about discharging those high voltage capacitors, I also took care of advising people the aren't familiar with electricity and electronics to seek for help from knoledgeable person in order to avoid electrocution or severe injuries.
Bonjour. Regarding the high-voltage rectifiers... From what I have read and seen, a regular multimeter won't be able to test these, because the forward voltage when conducting is several volts, not just 0.6 to 0.7V for standard silicon diodes. I have used a 12V power supply and a 1K resistor in series with the diode. Measure the voltage across the rectifier. Hooked up in reverse, the voltage across the rectifier will be the 12V of the power supply. When connected in the forward direction, the voltage across the rectifier will be anywhere from about 5V up to maybe 10V, depending on the device. Today, I was working on a Panasonic microwave (model NN-ST661B) with this exact same inverter module. One rectifier (D702?) was dead short, and the other (D701?) was okay. The inverter wasn't generating high voltage, so the microwave shut down after 23 seconds, just as it is supposed to for this failure mode. A replacement inverter is about $160 CAD.
It's possible to take a chance to find a supply for replacement diodes, ( Digi-Key, Mouser, etc) I don't have on hand the number or reference of that diode since There isn't a microwave open close by. One possible way to avoid paying 160$ would be to get a used microwave that works, even if the outside apearance isn't great, all you need is the board, by checking the model number and refering to the proper service manual you'll know if the board is compatible. Note that many models of inverter series within the same power range share the same board... I hope you solve your problem... 🙂
@@pierresgarage2687 === all you need is the board, by checking the model number and refering to the proper service manual you'll know if the board is compatible. Note that many models of inverter series within the same power range share the same board... === I actually do have the service manual for this microwave oven. And it does give the Panasonic part number of the inverter board. But, what I'm not sure about is, which other inverter modules could be used to replace the one I have. If you go to eBay, and search for Panasonic microwave inverters, there are quite a few available, both new and used, often with slightly different model/part numbers. They all appear to have the same form-factor, same mounting, same connectors at the same locations labeled the same way. Maybe all earlier or later versions of some kind of "inverter family"? Intuitively, it would seem that any of these could be installed and would probably work. Do all of these inverters put out the same high-voltage DC, controlled by that 3-pin cable from the display panel? Anyway, it's academic now... The owner of the microwave (not me) decided enough time had been spent in this repair, and they will buy a replacement oven. I scrapped the oven, but salvaged the useful bits (panel, turntable, fan, switches, etc.)
My Sanyo microwave inverter board is defective. I guess the ic controller was dead because the igbt and rectifier diode is normal. I cannot find any Sanyo replacement board in the market (EM-L320TBX). Can I use Panasonic inverter board in this case?
Thanks nice one. Does the high electric cause any shock if the power is disconnected ? I mean does it have any stored electicity to cause any shock when the main power plug is removed for a fuse replacement inside the oven? A Panasonnic oven tripped our mains and the fuse inside the oven has gone and on fuse replacement it works, but tripped again once more but the fuse is fine this time and on mains trip back on the oven works again. Not sure if there would be any other issues., or is it safe to use again.
Sounds like you may have an issue that won't fix itself by replacing the fuse, you need to check the magnetron or investigate the main high voltage board... Look in the description below, there is a link to the schematics, in there you'll find the procedure on how to test many of the components that may fail. BEWARE OF HIGH VOLTAGES that could be lethal, mostly if you're not familiar with electricity or electronics repairs, if unsure refer, to experienced service people...!!!
Hi, thanks with this video..very nice..just want to ask u, if i press timer button, my microwave will off(no power) need to press back start button to make it On back.
Hello Poerre. Can you tell me please. Do you short the capacitors on these Panasonic inverter microwaves,please? And if so .Can you tell me please. How you do it more safe? Thank you and nice video.
It's always safer to discharge those capscitors, the best way to procede is to get an appropriate resistor and a wire with aligator clips, you clip one end with the resistor to ground or one lead of the capacitor and with the other end you touch the other end. Avoid touching with both hands or making a part with 2 opposite body parts.....
Thank you Pierre for the reply. Are the capacitors easy visible? . I was told it was near the green part of the Inverter board. I only saw a picture so far. I haven't seen the real one yet. Many thanks for the reply.@@pierresgarage2687
As I remember they are quite easy to reach, if an aligator clip doesn't do it you can use meeter probes with a needle point to get the same result, after discharge use the meter to check for residual voltage, though, be careful with the kilovolts rated parts not to overload you meter's capacity. If you're not rxperienced with electric circuits and electronics, be really careful not to cause yourself injuries...
If the fuse blew, I would suspect that the problem would be most likely a defective IGBT transistor the rectifier bridge or something in the high voltage module, those are common and relatively easy to replace...
Hi Pierre thanks for your quick reply.I it looks like the Magnitron is faulty i have one froma smaller microwave donated for spares. Would it be okay to swop over? I guess not i have yet to test door switches. Thankyou
Not certain about using a different magnetron, I suspect there should be matched to the high voltage section, the first test to evaluate a magnetron is to measure the 2 input terminals, those should be very low resistance, like around 1 ohm or under, secondly, there should be no contact from those 2 contacts to the boby. What I've seen about magnetrons, they're quite easily available at prices around +/- 30 to 40 usd.
The thermal switch is quite simple to diagnose, it's essentially a bi-metal blade that will deform when heated, it's either on or off, when the temperature is below it's rated operation specs it will be a short circuit or closed to allow the current to pass. For testing, you use an ohm meter and the result needs to be a short circuit between the tabs, if not, the device is defective. Hope it's what you were looking for.... Cheers, Pierre
Very Nice job........well done. Question: I just repaired a 12yr.old Emerson with the same relay failure. Can you tell me when exactly does this relay get energized ? I assume it gets energized when you press the "cooking time" button. Is that correct? Thank you.
It gets energized a few seconds after you engage the start button, in the interval the high voltage board checks the voltages are all right and gives the go for the relay to engage. Cheers, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank you. I can not find the exact schematic for this old unit, nor the control board. So I was just guessing ! I see the big transformer and cap, but I don't think there is a 'high voltage" board, like you show in your video. I only see the "input board and fuse, no "high voltage fuse '. either. @ Emerson 7300W made in 2010.
I wasn't able to find any schematic for this model, just an operator'S manual. Judging by the weight, it seems that the high voltage is produced by a transformer instead of an electronic converter, the principle should be similar, the relay is only activated when everything is OK, like the door switches and the correct high voltage condition. If the realy isn't working there are two possibilities, either the relay is defective ( it's coil or the contacts ) or some safety condition and high voltage status aren't right.
Could you please explain how exactly you shorted the inverter before starting the repair? The service manual says to short the inverter output terminal of the magnetron filament terminal to the chassis ground, but it is not clear (to me) where the former is. Thanks!
if my memory serves me right, from the two terminals to the body there should no reading on the resistance function, as between the two terminals the reading should be a near short circuit, if not the magnetron is surely defective.
I've fixed a few of the similar model ovens - you will notice at 3:41 - the right connector overheated.. I saw several of the push-on tab connectors fail on these ovens - expect to see design errors in the repairs. Nice oven - but they cut every corner they could..
I noticed that, this is why I pulled it out and reseated it in order to rejuvenate the contact. You're absolutely right about cutting every last bit of surplus in order to lower "Their" cost.... 😉👍 Thanks for viewing and for your comment, Pierre
Thank you very much for your efforts. I had an issue where a recent model would stop after a few seconds but wouldn’t even run the inverter, kind of silent, after checking all the connections in your order it’s working again. Hope it’s not a temporary fix don’t want to have to dig out my multimeter. Thanks again
If the magnetron housing is isolated from the unit and there is one of the side that makes contact with the case, there is most likely a problem with this magnetron. Look out on Ali express or Ebay using the number on the unit, you should find something in the 30 to 50 USD range. look out for burnt windings on the High Voltage coil or anything wrong ont the HV board... Let me know how it turns out...
Hi, I would like to know how you found the relay was faulty. Im beginning to check a 6n686s panasonic inverter which gave me error H98, it warmed the water cup and stopped after some 15 seconds, at the third try it didn't warm the water again so I opened and began starting the visual check, the magnetron looked ok and my guess is the power supply but who knows. Didn't think of the relay or switches, tomorrow will look at them. Regards.
The symptom in my case was the cycle would stop after 2 to 3 seconds, I simply jumped the relay with a piece of wire and everything went normal, just be careful, mostly if you're not familiar with electronics and electricity....
Thank you for this video,i changed the Gt60n321 IGBT but when i start microwave,IGBT blows again and i need to change it again, I'm so confused, magnetron is ok
Most times there is more than the IGBT that will blow, you need to look for the other parts that drives the IGBT, cause it most likely takes along other parts around when it blows, or, some of those driving parts will cause the IGBT to blow... Other important parts to check, the HV trancformer, look for possibly burned windings, other coils, capacitors, diodes, etc...
Hi! Do you know the model number of the inverter that is used for the microwave oven Panasonic NN ST651W? The repairing shop return my oven without the inverter installed. The 2technian" include in the package two inverters and a notesaying that all the inverters are similar, but he takes out the inverter of my oven and he is later confused what are the inverter that came installed originally. I must know the mentioned info to recover my original inverter.
By looking in the service manual we get : F606Y8X00CP H.V.INVERTER (U) This should be a good number, this board seem to be used in a few similar models. Hope it works for you....
If you want to confirm that the relay is defective you can measure the voltage at the output end of the relay ( the wire that goes to the high voltage board) if there is a constant voltage, the relay is good, if the voltage cuts, the relay or the relay may be defective or the activation command is faulty. If the line voltage is present at the input of the high voltage board it 't possible that the board is defective or intermitent.
Hard to diagnose from where I am, but, it sounds possible that your HV board is intermitent or defective. I don't know how you camn manage advanced electronics repairs, this is getting quite more complex. Before all , have yout checked if there is a good connection on the control connection, it's the wires on the connector 701 on the HV board going to the relay board. Hope you downloaded the service manual listed in the description below, if the appliance model is lightly different from yours chances are that the schematics will be close enough to yours. There is in the manual a section on how to test the main components that may fail on the board. Remember to be EXTRA CAREFUL when dealing with this type of repair, voltages in excess of 2 to 3 thousands of volts with lots of current is present there, this could injure you or even kill you, I suggest that you undergo this procedure only if you know have pertinent experience in this type of repair...
Hi Pierre, my Panasonic Inverter Microwave, model number NNSD997S, turns on automatically with the light, fan, and turning glass tray activating when the door is closed, even when no button is pressed. This occurs despite replacing all three interlock switches with OEM parts and confirming the door seal is free from debris. Additionally, the control panel shows no obvious damage or burnt marks. Could you share your thoughts on what might be causing this issue?
Oh...! That's a good one...! First thing that came to me is that there is a possibility of a stuck button or something of the kind, looks like the logic control board is always on. Not much else i can suggest without more probing, let me know if you can determine if the command signal is active on the output of the main board with the buttons.
@@pierresgarage2687 Yes, you are right! and my problem is fixed. It was one of the Relays that got stuck and with the help of a screw driver it is working. Basically, using the plastic handle of a screw driver and tapping the casing of the relay several times. It is unstuck and working normal now. Once again, thanks for your great help and it was extremely helpful to resolve my issue. Cheers.
Great video. I have the same issue where the microwave shuts off within 3 seconds. I tested all 3 door switches and they have continuity and appear good. Next i wanted to test the same relay that was causing your problem. I tested it by running the microwave and checked the voltage being fed by relay into the inverter. I get voltage but it was only 100V and not 120V as it should be. Does this low voltage measurement indicate a bad relay? You mentioned you got no voltage which obviously indicates a bad relay. Not sure if my low 100V measurement is causing the Inverter not to activate because the inverter needs 120V. Any help would be appreciated!
Having voltage across the relay isn't good, the way I tested this issue was by starting the microwave and before the control board would detect the failed voltage ( within one second or so ) I shorted the output contacts of the relay with a screwdriver, at that moment the microwave was functionning normally. Let mee know if you try this and how it turns out for you, I highly suggest you wear eye protection and insulating gloves, worse case scenario, the main fuse will blow. Hope this helps
Please, can you tell me how the communication between the control board and the HV board works? I'm looking to replace the HV board with a common transformer. But I need to make sure the HV board doesn't turn off. I intend to assemble a circuit to simulate the signal from the HV board that goes to the optical coupler.
Hi, great video! I have a Panasonic inverter without the timetable with constant h97 errors. I've narrowed it down to consistently happening when there is only a small amount of food in the microwave, ie one cup of etc. If I put in more food, the error does not happen. Is this voltage feedback to the inverter or a faulty magnetron do you think? I wish it was a door switch lol 😁
Hi, A h97 error is related to a lack of power or a faulty magnetron. Since you're dealing with very high volatages you'll need to be very careful, if you have no experience in electric components repair you may want to pass on this... If you really want to do this repair..... Unplug the apparel. First you have to check the resistance on the magnetron's connectors, disconnect the leads, after shorting the leads to discharge any residual charge in the magnetron, using a multimeter on Ohms function, measure between the 2 connectors, you should get very near 0 Ohms, also measure between those connectors and the body, there should be near infinite Ohms ( No connection ) when unmounted lookout for failed donut shaped magnets there should be no cracks, the business end of the unit should be nice and smooth, if not this is a faulty magnetron... If you require a new magnetron, look on eBay using the number written on the face of the magnetron, at this moment those should be around $25 to possibly $50 USD. After you replace the magnetron you'll probably need to reset the h97 code, it will be a combination of keys on the keyboard, since it differs according to the model look out on line for your actual model. Hope this helps, Pierre
It's most likely that the high voltage board ise defective, the main items that would fail are the IGBT transistor, the bridge rectifier and also possibly related components. You'll need some basic experience in electronics bebore undergoing those tests. If you download the servicee manual there is a section on how to test main semiconductors used on the board, the good news is that many models of apparels are using the same standart board. Hope you resolve your problem...
Could be a defective magnetron, a high voltage board or a missing command from the logic board... Hard to tell without specific readings, you can download the service manual by following the link in the description below the video. It shows a procedure for testing and diagnose the main problems. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH HIGH VOLTAGES if you're not experienced with electricity and electronice...!!!
Good morning.🎉 I love you video ❤. I have a Panasonic microwave NN-ST696S, not start working, always show display 88:88, they said it is control panel need change, did you have any suggestions? Thanks 🎉
Hello I have a Panasonic NNSN966S Micro that when plugged in Just cycles P10 through P1 and continues until I hit reset button to stop it it. I am unable to use any function at all. Any Ideas Thank You Paul
Hi, great video :) I"ve seen some others talk about running the inverter on it's own with the board behind the logic board. but they use signal generator or 555 ic to make the invertor powers on ... do you know any simpler way to run the invertor board without thos 555 IC or signal generator? because in your video you explain the relay make is with I become a bit confused.
Not aware about running the oven using an extra board, I'm more on finding a solution by finding the actual problem. The relay shown in this video is actuating the high voltage board by switching the AC line in response to the request from the control board.
Hi my Panasonic inverter nn-sc668s just stop heating. Runs normal but I can hear intermittent clicks every few seconds. After a 2min run it shuts off after 45 secs and does not heat. Any ideas?
Is it possible that the clicking sound comes from the relay being activated intermitently...? If so it's possibly the circuit activating the relay that is not functionning properly, second possibility that the relay is intermitent. There are some more readings you could do to pinpoint some issues, only if you're somehow familiar with electrial and elec circuits, if not the solution could be to refer to an experienced repairman...
But one thing which i expecting is missed here. There is one more board for power supply, that part is missed here. Rest the expalanation is very good thanks.
There is the main logic board with the controls and microcontroler, this bord is a little more difficult to service due to requiring more than basic diagnostic. Thanks for your comment...
I have one when I push on the small transformer on the main board it turns the display on and off. I have re-soldered the transformer and all the stuff around it. Still has the issue :(
Either the transformer isn't the issue, or, there is a little wire in the transformer where the connections to the mother board and the windings would be broken, if not, the problem is elsewhere....
We have a "Panasonic, The Genius Sensor 1250W Inverter", Model # NN-H965WFX microwave similar to yours. Our microwave was abused by a family member who slammed the door often. Eventually, the microwave would randomly totally shut off just as if the power plug was removed from the wall. Hitting on the front of the control panel would cause the power to return and the microwave would run, but eventually hitting it no longer worked. (I know that is wrong to do, but I mentioned it to aid in troubleshooting the issue.) I tested the input board, fuse, and all three door switches as you instructed and all are good. Would a bad relay cause all visible power to shut off, including the inside light and display not to work? I removed the two wire leads going to the relay and the circuit is open across the terminals. Is there a way to test this relay without removing it from the board using only a multimeter? Would momentarily bypassing the relay by connecting the two wire leads from the relay cause any harm?
When the relay is bad you normally still get the light and etc, I would suspect more the problem to be the support for the interlock switches to be worned or misadjusted caused by the rough handling of the door, that would be a first step to check of the wear or breakage of the support that hod those 3 switches...
@@pierresgarage2687 In 1984 I bought a non-running Amana Radar Range which had been used in the snack bar for years where I worked. I fixed it by replacing one of the door interlocks and it still works to this day. All of the second-hand microwaves I later salvaged and used over the years had bad door interlock switches, but that is not the case with this microwave. The main fuse is good and I check all three of the interlock switches by removing the wires connected to them and testing them while opening and shutting the door. They are all good and switch perfectly. My "uneducated" guess is that whatever is broken is most likely near the control panel because only "whacking" on the corner of the microwave near the control panel to make it power up. . . till it got progressively worse and finally stopped working altogether. When plugging in the capacitor does gain a charge, but no sign of life ever gets to the rest of the unit, including the light inside. I bought this microwave new in 2013 and it only lasted 1 year and has been stored away since then. My guess was a cracked solder joint on one of the boards, but remelting all of the solder joints is the only way I know to try to fix it. Your ideas of what else to try would be most appreciated. I love to learn how to fix things and I don't give up easily. Thank you. God bless. James
@angelhelp777 I'm having the EXACT same issue as you! Have you found out what was the problem? EDIT: See my other response... The problem was the Low Voltage Transformer.
@@pierresgarage2687 Salut Pierre! Fyi, I've had the exact problem as @angel. Shutting off randomly (no display, no lights). Hitting the front/side near the control board would solve the problem until it got less and less effective. Took a full day trying to understand the issue. All switches, and relay were looking good. Ultimately, the culprit was the Low Voltage Transformer. Trying searching for a replacement part turned out expensive... Maybe there are cheaper alternatives. In last resort, I used my soldering iron to: -desolder the Low-voltage-transformer ... 7 pins to desolder. -remove protective plastic -once out, investigated it. -turns out the pins are connected with hair thin wire. -decided on giving it a good bunch of solder to assure connectivity between wire and pin. -soldered back onto board All works now! Weird that I couldn't find any more info online besides this commenter. Good luck to all.
@@michaelbordeleau2953 I have not yet figured out the problem. The only responses I have received from other UA-camrs are focused on the door interlocks which I have already stated are in good working order. There is also an over-heat switch that one of the main power wires goes through, but it was not the problem. I can trace a continuity, but electronics and circuit boards are beyond my current knowledge level. I have been looking to find out exactly what can cause a complete loss of power. I have repaired several older microwaves but this one has me stumped thus far. I already repaired another microwave, so fixing this microwave is more of a quest for knowledge than a real necessity. . . but I am never one to give up on anything. I love learning and believe that if someone else can learn it, I can also. Since it previously ran when jolted, the next thing I am going to try is to plug in the unit with the case off and probe the board gently with a long thin wooden dowel rod to see if flexing the boards or touching items on the board or unit cause the display to come on. (Never use a pencil as the carbon lead conducts electricity very well.) If I discover anything new, I will share it with you. Please do the same for me. Thank you. God bless.
Anyone can help with suggestions it’ll be appreciated. My Panasonic nn-sd997s only shuts down after 2 consecutive heatings of 4-5 mins each. It’s gotta be overheating. I’ve already checked the magnetron with the mm and it checks fine - visual check looks good as well. I pulled the inverter and visually checked the board and no burn marks etc.
Have you checked if the line voltage appears at the HV board, also if the relay is actuated, if not the problem would be on the on the control board or before. there is also a small connector from the control board to the HV board, this connection is monitoring the high voltage output and if not present will stop the process.... Let me know how it goes...
@@pierresgarage2687, por favor, o senhor sabe informar como funciona a comunicação entre a placa de controle e a placa HV? Estou querendo substituir a placa HV por um transformador comum. Mas preciso fazer com que a placa HV não desligue. Pretendo montar um circuito para simular o sinal da placa HV que vai para o acoplador óptico.
@@pierresgarage2687Please, can you tell me how the communication between the control board and the HV board works? I'm looking to replace the HV board with a common transformer. But I need to make sure the HV board doesn't turn off. I intend to assemble a circuit to simulate the signal from the HV board that goes to the optical coupler.
Hi Pierre ! Really nice to have you back again ! Did you change business from metal to electronics repairment 🙂? ... if you can, I will too ... come back, I mean ... so, keep an eye open for my videos on a Quick Release nut for a planer bench I'm building !
Hi Keld, Thanks, It's great to be back.... I also missed being present on the Tube.... I'll be expecting that video from you whenever you're ready.... 👍 Cheers, Pierre
Hi Chuck, It feels great to be back, presently working on a few things in order to slowly getting back at producing new material, though, it was nice to enjoy a break from creating content.... Hope you and the family are doing well... Cheers, Pierre
Mon Ami ! So pleased to see you my friend! I have been waiting in hopes you would resume my training.
I second that.
Hi Dan,
OK...!!!
Back to the tough training, tomorrow morning 5 O'clock AM..... 😂😂
It's nice to slowly be back on the Tube, maybe not as intensive as before but more regularly,
Thanks for the warm welcome....
Great to see you back on the tube Pierre, you've been missed! Great fix, well explained. Cheers, Jon
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Glad you enjoyed, cheers,
Pierre
Nice walk through of the inverter microwave repair, especially with the schematic. Welcome back.
Glad you enjoyed it, electronics was my trade from 1972 to 1991, before other stuff and metalworking....
A little bit of nostalgia... 😉
So good to finally hear you, Pierre! In your usual calm and rigorous ways. Great fix, great example of intelligent restoration!
Hi Stefan good surprise visit,
Might as well share the calm and also the repair... 🙂🙂❄❄
Thank you for my first lesson in electronics. I was looking for a solution for my Siemens CF834AGB1/02 microwave error code E1007 & E1006, but can’t find any🥲
I send it to a technical company but still no positive results.
Now I like to fix it myself, but I don’t know where to start.
Hope to see and learn more from you.
Your explanations are very clear and good to follow.
A good teacher🤩👍
I am really glad to see you again Pierre. I do not pretend to be able to fix any electronic appliance so I mostly leave them alone. I hope we will be seeing you again. Thanks for the video.
Hi Harold,
Thanks for the welcoming comment, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... 😊👍
I really hate to see fixable things ending up in landfills....
Good to see you again Pierre, I don't have the patience to fix my microwave but I did fix my toaster a week ago, lol, it works better than ever now.
Keep smilin
Hi Darren,
You got to start somewhere, a toaster is as good as anything else....
Keep me posted on your next trial.... 😉
Cheers, Pierre
Pierre, I’m excited to see you back on UA-cam. I’ve missed your many insights and educational videos. Please keep them coming. Cheers, Will
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
You can expect some more videos, not as regular as previously, but, quite more often....
Cheers, Pierre
Welcome back Pierre! Great to see you again. Hope all is well.
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Everything is quite all right over here.
Great to see you back on the tube. I hope that this is the first of many videos to come. You have been missed.
Hi Steven,
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Yes, there are plans for more frequent videos.
Cheers, Pierre
Glad to see you Pierre, hope you are going to start doing more videos. Welcome back.
It's great to be back, I'm planning on getting back producing videos, maybe not intensively, but, at least more than once every 3+ years.... 😉
Pierre!! So good to see you again.
I second that.
Thanks for the warm welcoming words.... 😊👍
I should publish more regularly in the future.
I just stumbled upon this video, and I want to learn how to rebuild and repurpose microwave appliances. Thank you for sharing your work!
Thanks for your comment... It's possible to repair those inverter microwaves if you have some basic knowledge in electricity and electronics. Using a good logic debugging technique will do the rest....
@@pierresgarage2687 I'll have good examples and explainers and a healthy respect for wires.
Happy to see back, I hope all is well with you and your family. Good onya
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
The family is doing well, even the wife just retired lately.... 😉
Welcome back!
Good advice on avoiding cross-threading or double-cutting when replacing screws in soft material.
It feels great to be back....
Nothing worse than stripping any kind of thread, even worse in plastics...
Thank you, this was the fix I needed. That pesky relay. Very nicely presented.
Been a long three years. Welcome back and looking forward to your next video.
Thanks, It feels great to be back...
Though, the break was needed, there are gonna be some more regular posting of new videos.
Cheers, Pierre
Glad to see you back! i always enjoy seeing your videos. I check your channel every couple of days. Hope you and your family are well.
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
There may not be a very regular flow of new videos, but, I'm planning to be more present than the las 3+ last years.
The family is doing fine....
Cheers, Pierre
Good to see you back after a 3 year hiatus. I've wondered about you and Phil. looking forward to more videos.
Thanks for the welcoming comment, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... 😊👍
It was also great to enjoy a long break from creating content, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope...
Phillippe and I are still meeting on a regular basis, and, he's doing great also...
@@pierresgarage2687 Happy to hear that Phil is doing well too.
Hi Pierre, so good to se a video from you again, nice repair instead of just buying a new one, but 99% can't do that unfortunately, I was thinking of how you where getting along last week, but haven't got to write to you. All the best my friend and a good old handmade thumbs up to you.
It's great to be back....
I've always been reluctant to throw away something that could be fixed, that should help solving the garbage disposal problem...... 😉
Things are going fine over here, just standard issues, appart from the pandemic that disturbed the daily routine a little.
@@pierresgarage2687 Good to hear.
Une vraie belle job, Merci. J'ai eu une switch de défectueuse et la fuse thermique, que j’attends encore. Tes explications étaient superbes, Merci
Allo Alain,
Vraiment content que tu ais aimé, ta switch va bien finir par arriver un de ces jours.... Du moins, je l'espère. 😊😊
@Pierre's Garage en fait c'est la fuse qui est brûlé, et après avoir vu ta vidéo j'en ai re-commander un autre
@@LgosseuxDbois-TheWoodpecker
Si le fusible est toasté, il est possible que tu trouves des composants défectueux sur le circuit de haut voltage, commence par vérifier le transistor IGBT sur le heat sink....
@Pierre's Garage Ben non Pierre, c'est la fusible thermique. Renée à fait fondre de la cire pendant plus qu'une demi-heure, on ne pouvait plus toucher aux micro-ondes tellement qu'il était chaud...
@@LgosseuxDbois-TheWoodpecker
La leçon à en tirer... Heu, Non.... Je ferais mieux de me taire.... 😱😱😂😂
Félicitations Pierre pour cette excellente vidéo très détaillée de ce four micro-ondes! J'suis en attente d'un interrupteur primaire de remplacement, même modèle que toi!
Bonjour Alain,
Merci pour le commentaire, ça fait toujours plaisir d'entendre que le travail que demande une video qui se veut instructive soit apprécié par des auditeurs tel que vous....
J,espère que vous réussirez à remettre votre micro-onde en marche... 👍👍
Great to see you are still with us 🙂. Hope to see more of our videos.
Thanks for the welcoming comment, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope... 😊👍
Pierre! I missed hearing from you, glad to see you back in the game. I totally agree that taking the time to try repairing stuff is the best course, our society throws out too many still-serviceable items. It seems like relays are a common failure point, as I've had to replace them in kitchen oven controls too due to burnt contacts.
Super happy to see you again! 😃
Hi Everett,
Always a pleasure to hear from you, hope the rest of the family is also going great... !
The break from producing was nice, the goal now is to get back at a more relax pace, got a few video projects brewing, to be continued....
Electronics was my job for the first 20 years I was employed, starting at 18... Then with different training, it evolved to other types of works being self employed.
You shop is getting operarionnal, I understand that with a young family your time is quite limited for "Extras"
Cheers, Pierre
Can't believe it took Baily dying to get you to post a video again but I am glad you did. You have been missed.
Hi Brian,
So sorry to hear about baily.
It's great to be back, possibly not as actively as previously, but, on a more regular basis.
Thanks for tuning in....
Pierre
Good to see you back. I missed your work.
It feels great to be back... 🙂
There a few projects simmering on the burner... 😉
Good to see you back. I hope all is well. Great video.
All is fine over here, hope the same goes for you...
Thnaks for your comment....
So nice to see you again, Pierre. It's been a long while. Some very good tips there, appreciate them all, thank you. Hope all is well with you and your family.
It's great to be back, nice of you to comment about what you get from the channel...
Family is doing all right, hope it's the same for you, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank you, Pierre. All is well here. New Grandson will be one in a few weeks. Time flies! I know you are just getting back after some time off. Whenever you get a chance, would love to hear an update on how your geothermal system is working out for you.
@@Hey_Its_That_Guy Apart from a start capacitor that failed on the main compressor, that by the way led to ruining the compressor... !!!
The waranty covered the material but not the man power, asside from this, it performs very good for cooling in the summer and heating in the winter, including the separate garage about 25 feet from the house. The cost in energy including all, is about one third or better than what it would cost without it...
So far so good...
Happy to see you back ,you have been missed. would be nice to see the three monkeys together again.
I second that.
Thanks for the welcoming words.... 😊
If there is a chance, there could be a Surprise Monkey Fest. To be determined... 🙈🙉🙊
@@pierresgarage2687 That would be awesome.
Great step by step explanation with the schematic. Great video!
Thanks for your nice comment... 🙂🙂
Definitely good to see you back on the air!
Hi Dave, Back a little less intensively than before... 😉
I'm glad your wife is recovering, it's a great news.
I am greatly encouraged. Keep well and in good spirits. You have good friends and well wishers.
Thank you so much... 🙂
Pierre, Awesome to see you back 👍👍. Nice trouble shooting and repair job. That name on the bottom of the relay may have explained the reason for failure...
ATB....Dean
I second that.
Feels great to be back.... 😊
There aren't many parts made outside of Asian countries, the game is to get lucky with the ones we get..... 😁👍
Holy cow….. so great to see you again Pierre. 👍👍😎👍👍
Hi, thanks for the warm welcoming comment... 🙂👍
Hi Pierre, welcome back! Thanks for the interesting and clearly presented video.
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
It's not easy to get back at editing, the reflexes have to come back. 🙂👍
very glad to see you back. I was worried about you
Don't worry I'm all right, thanks for for your comment...
There are a few projects brewing and to come out in time.
Cheers, Pierre
What a nice surprise to see a new video! Thanks for the info.
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
It's tough for me to see something reparable going to the landfill...
Best video to repair microwave ever seen.Thanks sir
Thank you for a great comment...... 🙂🙂
hay im glad your back we missed you
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube.... I plan to be more regular on the video production.
Nice to see you back on youtube
Hi John,
Nice to hear from you....
Hope you're doing well.
Cheers, Pierre
So great to see you back!
Not back full time but a little.... 😉😉👍👍
Thanks for stopping by and for the comment...
Cheers,
Pierre
Great vid in explaining on how to fix this issue, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
And for your comment... 👍
Le singe est de retour! Welcome back. Fun project but needs more chips.
On pourrait dire que n'importe quel singe pourrait réparer des micro-ondes.... lol
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Do you have the part number or link to those relays? How did you come up with the P/N, is it on the relay itself?
You can look on the relay itself for the number, if it's similar to what I repaired in the video it should be " JQC-25F-18 " or very close to it, it's available on eBay from many suppliers, price should be no more than 2 to 3$ each plus shipping not more than 4 to 5$.
Let me kno how it goes for you finding it...
you know why i'm here right? yes, exactly the same issue! thanks! happy new year. subscribed!
glad it helped you, also best wishes to you and your loved ones....
Good to see you back.
Thanks for the welcoming comment,... 😊👍
Great to see you out in the shop, Pierre! 😊 A great, money saving fix!
Bien fait! 👍😁👍
A little in the shop, a lot in front of the computer for editing.... 🤢🤢😉👍
I'm mostly an eternal garbage picker, it's a shame to see something good looking going to the trash for destruction.
By the way nice work on your taper attachement, seems to be going great so far, looking for some first tests.... 😊😊
@@pierresgarage2687 thanks, Pierre 😊. Me too lol.
Thank you for this video. Your efforts are well appreciated sir.
Thank you very much this weekend i find i need to watch you. My panasonic mw high voltage part is different but i need to follow your steps. I hope i dont need the relay but will see. I am in the UK☺
Thanks for viewing and for your comment....
The relay is quite easy to get and inexpensive, anyway, if you feel like it, let me know what you find... 👍👍
great to see ya back. missed ya
Thanks for the kind words, I missed being present on the Tube.
I'll be present once in a while as I feel I got something that could be interesting and share with you out there... 🙂👍
Well, well, well - good to see you Pierre :) Takes me back to long ago when I did some microwave fixes. This was a useful diagnostic breakdown and probably super useful for many folks. Nice job.
Wish I could put out something new one day.
Hi Chris,
This was an enjoyable break from video production, time to get back at brewing new projecs, possibly more relaxe than before, though....
Hope you're doing fine down there...
Cheers,
Pierre
Missed both you guys. It’s like hearing from old friends you never met but were a big part of my life. Several of the machining community have dropped off the earth. People change and interest evolve but it’s nice to see you both post once again.
@@FrancisoDoncona
Those are some of the "Good feeling" comments from from viewers, it's interesting to hear from people that sees and hears us producers, but, that we often have no idea who is really viewing at the other end, if you can understand what I'm trying to express....
Guess I'll get to make some more videos on a more relax basis, just for the fun of it...
Good to see you again, 🙂
It's great to be back....
Thanks.... 🙂
Can you use any magnetron from normal transformer microwaves in an inverter microwave or are these magnetron’s different
It's better to get the same item or a similar one in order to respect the same power output handling capacity. Normally you shoud be able to find something similar or direct replacement since there is a good choice of different ones available.
Thanks for your comment.... 🙂🙂
Very nice work Pierre!
Many thanks!
I'm happy you liked..... 🙂
NICE TO SEE YOU BACK AGAIN. I think I've seen 2 of those exact models (or ones that look nearly identical to it) tossed out once and "rescued" them. When I tested them, if I ran them on full power, the transformer on the inverter board smoked. And if I ran them on 50% power, the coil in the transformer REALLY smoked. Because the windings in the coil were clearly shot, I didn't trouble shoot any further than that, and they went back to where I found them! Was a really odd failure for it to smoke MORE when running on lower power setting - obviously the main switching semiconductor in the inverter was really f'ed!
Once the transformer has started to toast, there is nothing to do in order to save it, there is formation of carbon that will snowball with use and get completely short as it goes.
Quite a few years ago I've seen a HV board with a burnt transformer, at that moment since it wasn't my oven I wasn't gonna bother trying to fix it, it would have been interesting to investigate...
The problem is the cost of a new HV board, if someone knows where to get a new board at a decent price, I'll add it up in the comment section.
It's always nice to save an appliance from the dumpster mostly if it only require only a minor repair.
Thanks for your comment...
Excellent repair video. I have the same model and same issue. I will check the relay if it is faulty. Please infor..where have you downloaded the seevice manual. Thanks
Hope you solve your problem the easy way....
Try this link and just type in one of the numbers of models in the list from the description section or the direst model number, it should give you a proper manual....
www.manualslib.com/
Thanks fo viewing and for your comment,
Cheers, Pierre
Merci/! Ours gave the H98 error, tried a power cycle then dropped it on the floor a few times because you know as well as I fails are 90% + due to contact failures and it started working again! I was afraid to run the unit with the cover off and now suspect/hope it is that relay as you can hear an arcing sound as it cooks... possibly the relay contacts buzzing or could be something else. Thanks to your video I will crack it open and try to isolate where the arcing sound source is - again hoping it is the relay. If I don't follow up in the next month or so, it was and thanks again in advance!
Hope you get it working and it's simple to repair, let me know...
Thanks for your comment...!
Bought a completely different used working model for $40 yesterday with mostly identical parts according to Panasonic. Tried the magnetron first, then the high voltage board and BINGO - wife is happy again. Un gros merci pour votre vidéo!
Glad you got it working again... 👍👍
I'm also happy you got time to follow up and shared your results.
Pierre
Welcome bak, you have drfinitely been missed
John
Thanks for the welcoming comment...
It was also great to enjoy a long break from creating content, there are some new projects brewing and slowly maturing, don't lose hope...
Welcome back Pierre.👍
Hi Barry,
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Cheers, Pierre
Thanks for the instructive video. Maybe you shoukd mention to discharge the high voltage capacitors by shorting them before working on the inverter pcb?
I haven't listened to the video since quite a while, but if my memory is not failing me there is a brief mention about discharging those high voltage capacitors, I also took care of advising people the aren't familiar with electricity and electronics to seek for help from knoledgeable person in order to avoid electrocution or severe injuries.
So much good information in this video! Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for taking some time to leave a great comment... 🙂🙂
Thank You Pierre. Where can get a copy of the repair sheets you used? Keep up the great work!
High Chuck,
They may not have all manuals, but, they have quite an extended selection:
www.manualslib.com/
Thanks for your comment and for viewing...
Bonjour. Regarding the high-voltage rectifiers... From what I have read and seen, a regular multimeter won't be able to test these, because the forward voltage when conducting is several volts, not just 0.6 to 0.7V for standard silicon diodes. I have used a 12V power supply and a 1K resistor in series with the diode. Measure the voltage across the rectifier. Hooked up in reverse, the voltage across the rectifier will be the 12V of the power supply. When connected in the forward direction, the voltage across the rectifier will be anywhere from about 5V up to maybe 10V, depending on the device.
Today, I was working on a Panasonic microwave (model NN-ST661B) with this exact same inverter module. One rectifier (D702?) was dead short, and the other (D701?) was okay. The inverter wasn't generating high voltage, so the microwave shut down after 23 seconds, just as it is supposed to for this failure mode. A replacement inverter is about $160 CAD.
It's possible to take a chance to find a supply for replacement diodes, ( Digi-Key, Mouser, etc) I don't have on hand the number or reference of that diode since There isn't a microwave open close by. One possible way to avoid paying 160$ would be to get a used microwave that works, even if the outside apearance isn't great, all you need is the board, by checking the model number and refering to the proper service manual you'll know if the board is compatible. Note that many models of inverter series within the same power range share the same board...
I hope you solve your problem... 🙂
@@pierresgarage2687 === all you need is the board, by checking the model number and refering to the proper service manual you'll know if the board is compatible. Note that many models of inverter series within the same power range share the same board... === I actually do have the service manual for this microwave oven. And it does give the Panasonic part number of the inverter board. But, what I'm not sure about is, which other inverter modules could be used to replace the one I have. If you go to eBay, and search for Panasonic microwave inverters, there are quite a few available, both new and used, often with slightly different model/part numbers. They all appear to have the same form-factor, same mounting, same connectors at the same locations labeled the same way. Maybe all earlier or later versions of some kind of "inverter family"? Intuitively, it would seem that any of these could be installed and would probably work. Do all of these inverters put out the same high-voltage DC, controlled by that 3-pin cable from the display panel?
Anyway, it's academic now... The owner of the microwave (not me) decided enough time had been spent in this repair, and they will buy a replacement oven. I scrapped the oven, but salvaged the useful bits (panel, turntable, fan, switches, etc.)
Welcome back Pierre
Thanks for your comment, it's great to be back....
My Sanyo microwave inverter board is defective. I guess the ic controller was dead because the igbt and rectifier diode is normal. I cannot find any Sanyo replacement board in the market (EM-L320TBX). Can I use Panasonic inverter board in this case?
Thanks nice one. Does the high electric cause any shock if the power is disconnected ? I mean does it have any stored electicity to cause any shock when the main power plug is removed for a fuse replacement inside the oven? A Panasonnic oven tripped our mains and the fuse inside the oven has gone and on fuse replacement it works, but tripped again once more but the fuse is fine this time and on mains trip back on the oven works again. Not sure if there would be any other issues., or is it safe to use again.
Sounds like you may have an issue that won't fix itself by replacing the fuse, you need to check the magnetron or investigate the main high voltage board...
Look in the description below, there is a link to the schematics, in there you'll find the procedure on how to test many of the components that may fail.
BEWARE OF HIGH VOLTAGES that could be lethal, mostly if you're not familiar with electricity or electronics repairs, if unsure refer, to experienced service people...!!!
Hi, thanks with this video..very nice..just want to ask u, if i press timer button, my microwave will off(no power) need to press back start button to make it On back.
Hello Poerre.
Can you tell me please. Do you short the capacitors on these Panasonic inverter microwaves,please?
And if so .Can you tell me please. How you do it more safe?
Thank you and nice video.
It's always safer to discharge those capscitors, the best way to procede is to get an appropriate resistor and a wire with aligator clips, you clip one end with the resistor to ground or one lead of the capacitor and with the other end you touch the other end. Avoid touching with both hands or making a part with 2 opposite body parts.....
Thank you Pierre for the reply. Are the capacitors easy visible? . I was told it was near the green part of the Inverter board. I only saw a picture so far. I haven't seen the real one yet.
Many thanks for the reply.@@pierresgarage2687
As I remember they are quite easy to reach, if an aligator clip doesn't do it you can use meeter probes with a needle point to get the same result, after discharge use the meter to check for residual voltage, though, be careful with the kilovolts rated parts not to overload you meter's capacity. If you're not rxperienced with electric circuits and electronics, be really careful not to cause yourself injuries...
Hi again Pierre just wondering how you tested tge Relay as i assume like me the power supply 29amp fuse had blown. Thankyou for sharing
If the fuse blew, I would suspect that the problem would be most likely a defective IGBT transistor the rectifier bridge or something in the high voltage module, those are common and relatively easy to replace...
Hi Pierre thanks for your quick reply.I it looks like the Magnitron is faulty i have one froma smaller microwave donated for spares. Would it be okay to swop over? I guess not i have yet to test door switches. Thankyou
Not certain about using a different magnetron, I suspect there should be matched to the high voltage section, the first test to evaluate a magnetron is to measure the 2 input terminals, those should be very low resistance, like around 1 ohm or under, secondly, there should be no contact from those 2 contacts to the boby.
What I've seen about magnetrons, they're quite easily available at prices around +/- 30 to 40 usd.
i wish you had shown more about the testing thermal overload
The thermal switch is quite simple to diagnose, it's essentially a bi-metal blade that will deform when heated, it's either on or off, when the temperature is below it's rated operation specs it will be a short circuit or closed to allow the current to pass.
For testing, you use an ohm meter and the result needs to be a short circuit between the tabs, if not, the device is defective.
Hope it's what you were looking for....
Cheers, Pierre
Very Nice job........well done.
Question: I just repaired a 12yr.old Emerson with the same relay failure. Can you tell me when exactly does this relay get energized ? I assume it gets energized when you press the "cooking time" button. Is that correct? Thank you.
It gets energized a few seconds after you engage the start button, in the interval the high voltage board checks the voltages are all right and gives the go for the relay to engage.
Cheers, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank you. I can not find the exact schematic for this old unit, nor the control board. So I was just guessing ! I see the big transformer and cap, but I don't think there is a 'high voltage" board, like you show in your video. I only see the "input board and fuse, no "high voltage fuse '. either. @ Emerson 7300W made in 2010.
I wasn't able to find any schematic for this model, just an operator'S manual. Judging by the weight, it seems that the high voltage is produced by a transformer instead of an electronic converter, the principle should be similar, the relay is only activated when everything is OK, like the door switches and the correct high voltage condition.
If the realy isn't working there are two possibilities, either the relay is defective ( it's coil or the contacts ) or some safety condition and high voltage status aren't right.
Could you please explain how exactly you shorted the inverter before starting the repair? The service manual says to short the inverter output terminal of the magnetron filament terminal to the chassis ground, but it is not clear (to me) where the former is. Thanks!
So if there's only 67 Ohms between the magnatron terminals and case that's a dead magnatron right? Should read open, shouldn't it?
if my memory serves me right, from the two terminals to the body there should no reading on the resistance function, as between the two terminals the reading should be a near short circuit, if not the magnetron is surely defective.
I've fixed a few of the similar model ovens - you will notice at 3:41 - the right connector overheated.. I saw several of the push-on tab connectors fail on these ovens - expect to see design errors in the repairs. Nice oven - but they cut every corner they could..
I noticed that, this is why I pulled it out and reseated it in order to rejuvenate the contact.
You're absolutely right about cutting every last bit of surplus in order to lower "Their" cost.... 😉👍
Thanks for viewing and for your comment, Pierre
Thank you very much for your efforts. I had an issue where a recent model would stop after a few seconds but wouldn’t even run the inverter, kind of silent, after checking all the connections in your order it’s working again. Hope it’s not a temporary fix don’t want to have to dig out my multimeter. Thanks again
If you're like me, you will dislike not being certain you found the real problem and fixed it once and for all... 😒
The magnetron anode touches metal within the mounting housing. Is that normal?
If the magnetron housing is isolated from the unit and there is one of the side that makes contact with the case, there is most likely a problem with this magnetron. Look out on Ali express or Ebay using the number on the unit, you should find something in the 30 to 50 USD range. look out for burnt windings on the High Voltage coil or anything wrong ont the HV board... Let me know how it turns out...
Hi, I would like to know how you found the relay was faulty. Im beginning to check a 6n686s panasonic inverter which gave me error H98, it warmed the water cup and stopped after some 15 seconds, at the third try it didn't warm the water again so I opened and began starting the visual check, the magnetron looked ok and my guess is the power supply but who knows. Didn't think of the relay or switches, tomorrow will look at them. Regards.
The symptom in my case was the cycle would stop after 2 to 3 seconds, I simply jumped the relay with a piece of wire and everything went normal, just be careful, mostly if you're not familiar with electronics and electricity....
Thank you for this video,i changed the Gt60n321 IGBT but when i start microwave,IGBT blows again and i need to change it again, I'm so confused, magnetron is ok
Most times there is more than the IGBT that will blow, you need to look for the other parts that drives the IGBT, cause it most likely takes along other parts around when it blows, or, some of those driving parts will cause the IGBT to blow...
Other important parts to check, the HV trancformer, look for possibly burned windings, other coils, capacitors, diodes, etc...
Hi! Do you know the model number of the inverter that is used for the microwave oven Panasonic NN ST651W? The repairing shop return my oven without the inverter installed. The 2technian" include in the package two inverters and a notesaying that all the inverters are similar, but he takes out the inverter of my oven and he is later confused what are the inverter that came installed originally. I must know the mentioned info to recover my original inverter.
By looking in the service manual we get :
F606Y8X00CP H.V.INVERTER (U)
This should be a good number, this board seem to be used in a few similar models.
Hope it works for you....
The amperage while cooking fluctuates between 0 and 8amps is that a faulty relay. Then microwave shuts off
If you want to confirm that the relay is defective you can measure the voltage at the output end of the relay ( the wire that goes to the high voltage board) if there is a constant voltage, the relay is good, if the voltage cuts, the relay or the relay may be defective or the activation command is faulty. If the line voltage is present at the input of the high voltage board it 't possible that the board is defective or intermitent.
There is constant line Voltage input to the HV inverter so the inverter board is defective
Hard to diagnose from where I am, but, it sounds possible that your HV board is intermitent or defective. I don't know how you camn manage advanced electronics repairs, this is getting quite more complex. Before all , have yout checked if there is a good connection on the control connection, it's the wires on the connector 701 on the HV board going to the relay board. Hope you downloaded the service manual listed in the description below, if the appliance model is lightly different from yours chances are that the schematics will be close enough to yours. There is in the manual a section on how to test the main components that may fail on the board. Remember to be EXTRA CAREFUL when dealing with this type of repair, voltages in excess of 2 to 3 thousands of volts with lots of current is present there, this could injure you or even kill you, I suggest that you undergo this procedure only if you know have pertinent experience in this type of repair...
Hi Pierre, my Panasonic Inverter Microwave, model number NNSD997S, turns on automatically with the light, fan, and turning glass tray activating when the door is closed, even when no button is pressed. This occurs despite replacing all three interlock switches with OEM parts and confirming the door seal is free from debris. Additionally, the control panel shows no obvious damage or burnt marks. Could you share your thoughts on what might be causing this issue?
Oh...! That's a good one...! First thing that came to me is that there is a possibility of a stuck button or something of the kind, looks like the logic control board is always on. Not much else i can suggest without more probing, let me know if you can determine if the command signal is active on the output of the main board with the buttons.
@@pierresgarage2687 Yes, you are right! and my problem is fixed. It was one of the Relays that got stuck and with the help of a screw driver it is working. Basically, using the plastic handle of a screw driver and tapping the casing of the relay several times. It is unstuck and working normal now. Once again, thanks for your great help and it was extremely helpful to resolve my issue. Cheers.
Glag it helped...🙂
Great video. I have the same issue where the microwave shuts off within 3 seconds. I tested all 3 door switches and they have continuity and appear good. Next i wanted to test the same relay that was causing your problem. I tested it by running the microwave and checked the voltage being fed by relay into the inverter. I get voltage but it was only 100V and not 120V as it should be. Does this low voltage measurement indicate a bad relay? You mentioned you got no voltage which obviously indicates a bad relay. Not sure if my low 100V measurement is causing the Inverter not to activate because the inverter needs 120V. Any help would be appreciated!
Having voltage across the relay isn't good, the way I tested this issue was by starting the microwave and before the control board would detect the failed voltage ( within one second or so ) I shorted the output contacts of the relay with a screwdriver, at that moment the microwave was functionning normally.
Let mee know if you try this and how it turns out for you, I highly suggest you wear eye protection and insulating gloves, worse case scenario, the main fuse will blow.
Hope this helps
Please, can you tell me how the communication between the control board and the HV board works? I'm looking to replace the HV board with a common transformer. But I need to make sure the HV board doesn't turn off. I intend to assemble a circuit to simulate the signal from the HV board that goes to the optical coupler.
Welcome back!
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
Awesome video! Thanks!
Glad you liked and thanks for your comment...
Hi, great video! I have a Panasonic inverter without the timetable with constant h97 errors. I've narrowed it down to consistently happening when there is only a small amount of food in the microwave, ie one cup of etc. If I put in more food, the error does not happen. Is this voltage feedback to the inverter or a faulty magnetron do you think? I wish it was a door switch lol 😁
Hi,
A h97 error is related to a lack of power or a faulty magnetron.
Since you're dealing with very high volatages you'll need to be very careful, if you have no experience in electric components repair you may want to pass on this...
If you really want to do this repair.....
Unplug the apparel.
First you have to check the resistance on the magnetron's connectors, disconnect the leads, after shorting the leads to discharge any residual charge in the magnetron, using a multimeter on Ohms function, measure between the 2 connectors, you should get very near 0 Ohms, also measure between those connectors and the body, there should be near infinite Ohms ( No connection ) when unmounted lookout for failed donut shaped magnets there should be no cracks, the business end of the unit should be nice and smooth, if not this is a faulty magnetron...
If you require a new magnetron, look on eBay using the number written on the face of the magnetron, at this moment those should be around $25 to possibly $50 USD.
After you replace the magnetron you'll probably need to reset the h97 code, it will be a combination of keys on the keyboard, since it differs according to the model look out on line for your actual model.
Hope this helps,
Pierre
I want to know why the fuse always burning when I get start? |Thanks
It's most likely that the high voltage board ise defective, the main items that would fail are the IGBT transistor, the bridge rectifier and also possibly related components. You'll need some basic experience in electronics bebore undergoing those tests. If you download the servicee manual there is a section on how to test main semiconductors used on the board, the good news is that many models of apparels are using the same standart board.
Hope you resolve your problem...
Thank you, Pierre.
Whats the issue it shows H98?
Could be a defective magnetron, a high voltage board or a missing command from the logic board...
Hard to tell without specific readings, you can download the service manual by following the link in the description below the video. It shows a procedure for testing and diagnose the main problems.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH HIGH VOLTAGES if you're not experienced with electricity and electronice...!!!
Good morning.🎉 I love you video ❤. I have a Panasonic microwave NN-ST696S, not start working, always show display 88:88, they said it is control panel need change, did you have any suggestions? Thanks 🎉
Hello
I have a Panasonic NNSN966S Micro that when plugged in Just cycles P10 through P1 and continues until I hit reset button to stop it it. I am unable to use any function at all. Any Ideas
Thank You
Paul
Is it possible that the switch pannel is shorted or dammaged... ?
That's what comes to my mind...
Good job, I enjoyed the repair session. Keep up the good work. BJ
Thanks 👍
Hi, great video :) I"ve seen some others talk about running the inverter on it's own with the board behind the logic board. but they use signal generator or 555 ic to make the invertor powers on ... do you know any simpler way to run the invertor board without thos 555 IC or signal generator? because in your video you explain the relay make is with I become a bit confused.
Not aware about running the oven using an extra board, I'm more on finding a solution by finding the actual problem. The relay shown in this video is actuating the high voltage board by switching the AC line in response to the request from the control board.
Hi my Panasonic inverter nn-sc668s just stop heating. Runs normal but I can hear intermittent clicks every few seconds. After a 2min run it shuts off after 45 secs and does not heat. Any ideas?
Is it possible that the clicking sound comes from the relay being activated intermitently...?
If so it's possibly the circuit activating the relay that is not functionning properly, second possibility that the relay is intermitent.
There are some more readings you could do to pinpoint some issues, only if you're somehow familiar with electrial and elec circuits, if not the solution could be to refer to an experienced repairman...
@@pierresgarage2687 Awesome thanks. I'll check that out. First time working with an inverter microwave so was a little curious.
But one thing which i expecting is missed here. There is one more board for power supply, that part is missed here. Rest the expalanation is very good thanks.
There is the main logic board with the controls and microcontroler, this bord is a little more difficult to service due to requiring more than basic diagnostic.
Thanks for your comment...
I have one when I push on the small transformer on the main board it turns the display on and off. I have re-soldered the transformer and all the stuff around it. Still has the issue :(
Either the transformer isn't the issue, or, there is a little wire in the transformer where the connections to the mother board and the windings would be broken, if not, the problem is elsewhere....
Welcome back
Hi, thanks for welcoming comment... 😊
We have a "Panasonic, The Genius Sensor 1250W Inverter", Model # NN-H965WFX microwave similar to yours. Our microwave was abused by a family member who slammed the door often. Eventually, the microwave would randomly totally shut off just as if the power plug was removed from the wall. Hitting on the front of the control panel would cause the power to return and the microwave would run, but eventually hitting it no longer worked. (I know that is wrong to do, but I mentioned it to aid in troubleshooting the issue.) I tested the input board, fuse, and all three door switches as you instructed and all are good. Would a bad relay cause all visible power to shut off, including the inside light and display not to work? I removed the two wire leads going to the relay and the circuit is open across the terminals. Is there a way to test this relay without removing it from the board using only a multimeter? Would momentarily bypassing the relay by connecting the two wire leads from the relay cause any harm?
When the relay is bad you normally still get the light and etc, I would suspect more the problem to be the support for the interlock switches to be worned or misadjusted caused by the rough handling of the door, that would be a first step to check of the wear or breakage of the support that hod those 3 switches...
@@pierresgarage2687 In 1984 I bought a non-running Amana Radar Range which had been used in the snack bar for years where I worked. I fixed it by replacing one of the door interlocks and it still works to this day.
All of the second-hand microwaves I later salvaged and used over the years had bad door interlock switches, but that is not the case with this microwave. The main fuse is good and I check all three of the interlock switches by removing the wires connected to them and testing them while opening and shutting the door. They are all good and switch perfectly. My "uneducated" guess is that whatever is broken is most likely near the control panel because only "whacking" on the corner of the microwave near the control panel to make it power up. . . till it got progressively worse and finally stopped working altogether. When plugging in the capacitor does gain a charge, but no sign of life ever gets to the rest of the unit, including the light inside. I bought this microwave new in 2013 and it only lasted 1 year and has been stored away since then. My guess was a cracked solder joint on one of the boards, but remelting all of the solder joints is the only way I know to try to fix it. Your ideas of what else to try would be most appreciated. I love to learn how to fix things and I don't give up easily. Thank you. God bless. James
@angelhelp777 I'm having the EXACT same issue as you! Have you found out what was the problem? EDIT: See my other response... The problem was the Low Voltage Transformer.
@@pierresgarage2687 Salut Pierre! Fyi, I've had the exact problem as @angel. Shutting off randomly (no display, no lights). Hitting the front/side near the control board would solve the problem until it got less and less effective. Took a full day trying to understand the issue.
All switches, and relay were looking good. Ultimately, the culprit was the Low Voltage Transformer. Trying searching for a replacement part turned out expensive... Maybe there are cheaper alternatives. In last resort, I used my soldering iron to:
-desolder the Low-voltage-transformer ... 7 pins to desolder.
-remove protective plastic
-once out, investigated it.
-turns out the pins are connected with hair thin wire.
-decided on giving it a good bunch of solder to assure connectivity between wire and pin.
-soldered back onto board
All works now!
Weird that I couldn't find any more info online besides this commenter.
Good luck to all.
@@michaelbordeleau2953 I have not yet figured out the problem. The only responses I have received from other UA-camrs are focused on the door interlocks which I have already stated are in good working order. There is also an over-heat switch that one of the main power wires goes through, but it was not the problem. I can trace a continuity, but electronics and circuit boards are beyond my current knowledge level. I have been looking to find out exactly what can cause a complete loss of power. I have repaired several older microwaves but this one has me stumped thus far. I already repaired another microwave, so fixing this microwave is more of a quest for knowledge than a real necessity. . . but I am never one to give up on anything. I love learning and believe that if someone else can learn it, I can also. Since it previously ran when jolted, the next thing I am going to try is to plug in the unit with the case off and probe the board gently with a long thin wooden dowel rod to see if flexing the boards or touching items on the board or unit cause the display to come on. (Never use a pencil as the carbon lead conducts electricity very well.) If I discover anything new, I will share it with you. Please do the same for me. Thank you. God bless.
Anyone can help with suggestions it’ll be appreciated. My Panasonic nn-sd997s only shuts down after 2 consecutive heatings of 4-5 mins each. It’s gotta be overheating. I’ve already checked the magnetron with the mm and it checks fine - visual check looks good as well. I pulled the inverter and visually checked the board and no burn marks etc.
Have you checked if the line voltage appears at the HV board, also if the relay is actuated, if not the problem would be on the on the control board or before. there is also a small connector from the control board to the HV board, this connection is monitoring the high voltage output and if not present will stop the process....
Let me know how it goes...
Thanks for your guidance. Will be careful in proceeding considering the machine needs to be plugged to get these readings 😀
@@pierresgarage2687, por favor, o senhor sabe informar como funciona a comunicação entre a placa de controle e a placa HV?
Estou querendo substituir a placa HV por um transformador comum. Mas preciso fazer com que a placa HV não desligue. Pretendo montar um circuito para simular o sinal da placa HV que vai para o acoplador óptico.
@@pierresgarage2687Please, can you tell me how the communication between the control board and the HV board works? I'm looking to replace the HV board with a common transformer. But I need to make sure the HV board doesn't turn off. I intend to assemble a circuit to simulate the signal from the HV board that goes to the optical coupler.
Hi Pierre !
Really nice to have you back again !
Did you change business from metal to electronics repairment 🙂?
... if you can, I will too ... come back, I mean ... so, keep an eye open for my videos on a Quick Release nut for a planer bench I'm building !
Hi Keld,
Thanks, It's great to be back....
I also missed being present on the Tube....
I'll be expecting that video from you whenever you're ready.... 👍
Cheers, Pierre
HELLO!!!!!!!made my day!!!!
Hi Chuck,
It feels great to be back, presently working on a few things in order to slowly getting back at producing new material, though, it was nice to enjoy a break from creating content....
Hope you and the family are doing well...
Cheers, Pierre