Take notes people. Finally someone that knows how to fill a cooling system from the bottom up. That is 100% the correct way to fill any cooling system. Everything from a sportsman 500 to a BMW. Especially reverse circulation automotive applications , You fill through a disconnected radiator hose opposite of the thermostat. Depending on the system you have to follow hoses and make sure your filling through the hose that fills engine block from bottom up and always opposite of thermostat. Yes the thermostat is closed, That is why he fills slow to allow air to pass thermostat through steam hole at top of thermostat. In this case he does not have to fill through a disconnected hose because the bottom radiator hose connects to the lower part of engine opposite of thermostat. On this system you still have to do a final burping / filling procedure at radiator filler but this method will assure no air bound engine block.
I don’t think it will flow out of the engine because the thermostat isn’t open. It should be fine to top off with all your hoses attached. When you get ready to run the motor, run it with the radiator cap off for a bit and jiggle your lines to get the air out. Top off as needed. love your videos man. Just got done rebuilding my ‘95 425 magnum and your videos helped allot.
I saw you using peak antifreeze. I'm low on coolant on my 2005 polaris sportsman 500. Everything I read keeps saying you have to use some special coolant made by polaris. I figured that was BS, but obviously, you know far more than myself. I'm having a few issues with it, but yesterday was the first time mine said it was overheating while I was idling, but when I took off, it was fine. I'm not sure if that's because I'm low on coolant or what. It's also missing the pull cord, and I hear a rattling inside that cover. I'm assuming it's the bendix. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have a good one. 👍🏽 🎉
Love your videos, keep them coming. I just rebuilt a sportsman 500 myself. Im having issues with it overheating. Took it out for a short ride and it overheated. Fluid gushing out of the overflow bottle. Tried burping the system without any luck. The fan would cycle on and off as i would expect. However the idiot light would stay on. I decided to install a new radiator and replaced all the hoses and changed the water pump propeller with an aluminum one. I even decided to replace the head gasket with a Polaris OEM head gasket. Filled the system with antifreeze. I started the engine again and the same issue of overheating. The fan cycled as it should however the idiot light came on after running 10 minutes or so and would stay on. The only thing I didnt change was the thermostat and the engine temp sensor. Which were both new. I tested the thermostat on the stove and it open and closed at the proper temperatures. I do not know what else i can do. Very frustrated. Any help would be immensely appreciated 😢.
When you replaced the head gasket did you check to see if the head was not warped? Usually when fluid backs up into the overflow it's a warped head. Combustion blowing in coolant system. Or the impeller is bad.
I made sure the head was flat. Also, I sanded it with 1000 grid sandpaper on a piece of glass. Similar to 0:04 one of your videos. It looked like a mirror. Since the temp sensor is cycling the fan as it should. And I can see antifreeze in the radiator flow on and off, indicates the thermostat is functioning as well. I'm now leaning towards a bad temperature sensor in the head. I'm also going to add a radiator hose adapter to add a temp gauge so I can actually see what the coolant temp is on the hose coming out of the thermostat. I do not know what else I can do. What should the temp be when motor is running normal? And what is the idiot light temp supposed to be?
@@dvcm27 The temp should be about 165 to open the thermostat. the temp sensor in the head runs the idiot light the one on the radiator runs the fan. depending what year it is. It sounds like you did everything right and coolant is flowing. Is it still overheating or is it just the light going on? How are the fins on the radiator? could that be bad? I would try the sensor. They are cheap.
I used a vacuum type coolant refiller. I feel pretty good about this unit. It created negative pressure in the coolant system. All the hoses collapse under the negative press. Whiched sucked out all the air. I pretty sure I got all the air out of the system. I ran the machine last night and I used an infrared temp sensor. I checked the temp on the head and cylinder and it was running around 180ish. However the idiot light came on and wouldn't go off. The thermostat and fan was cycling on and off as it should. As you said in previous thread it must be the idiot light sensor. A dam OEM one cost about $154. Crazy cost. I have the original OEM sensor I'm going to swap out. I'll keep you posted.
I changed the sensor for the idiot light. I didn't want to lose any coolant so I put the machine on it side and replaced the sensor. I didn't want to introduce any air in the system. Mission accomplished. Started the machine and ran it for over a half hour. The idiot light never came on. The machine was running between 185 and 205. I finally solved the issue. The initial issue was air in the system. Which caused the engine to over heat. And a defective idiot light sensor (cheap Chinese crap). I learned a lot from this experience. The best investment I made was the coolant system negitive vacuum tool. There's no guessing if there's air in the system or not.
I have a 2004 polaris sportsman 700 twin and it will start and run fine but when I ride it around I have like no power in the top end tried new carb and iv also rebuilt the oem one and still no power it has a new fuel peacock and fuel pump and both spark plugs are new I'm kinda at a loss any help would be appreciated thanks keep the vids coming.
Have question can you replace a 1994 400L bottom end with a 1994 polaris 400 complete bottom ?Also. Im in Michigan by jackson and up in Houghton lake alot . Do you do repairs for others on side ? If so i dont see an email for you please let me know a way to contact you . Thanks tony
@@TitaniummanGarage rhe until i have is an1994 400L 4x4. Need bottom end replaced or rebuilt. Guy told me he has a 1994 bottom end complete but it was on a 1994 4wd 400 sportsmen i think he said but he said it was not a 400L . I assume the bottom end same for both but was wondering if you could let me know for sure? What year 400s from 90.s are completable. Thank you in advance . I Really enjoy your channel
@@tonyd9240 you can use any 400 bottom end. even a scrambler 400. They are all the same. If you install a used one just make sure to replace the crank seals while you have it out. They are cheap and will save you a headache down the road.
Hey DIY blind guy here again. Your video sounds pretty good but I don’t understand what line you’re saying to leave disconnected if you can please describe a little more in detail the procedure here. I want to flush the cooling system on our 99 Scrambler 500.
No problem. I tend to talk fast sometimes in front of the camera. There is 2 ways of bleeding the system. I was referring to the top radiator hose going to the left upper side of the engine. Now I just leave the rad cap off, run it till it burps out the air. you'll have some coolant overflow. I wait 5 minutes to make sure the thermostat opens.
Dont wanna be a jerk but thats not even nessesary. If its not an U on the system you domt have to bleed anywere exept at the highest point. And its radi cap on those
You could be right. I have done quite a few 2 strokes and had overheating issues because of coolant lines not bled. So after that I bleed everything just to make sure there is no way possible air is trapped in the lines.
Actually that is 100% the correct way to fill any cooling system. Everything from a sportsman 500 to a BMW. Sure you can fill from the top and burp it many times and getting hot in between burp intervals. I have seen mechanics not use this method and overheat engines and warped the heads. He is filling system from the bottom up. Also the way he pours it slow helps not to trap air. I been using this method for 30 years. I would say 40 years but 40 years ago the way cooling systems were designed you could fill them through top of radiator no problem.
Take notes people. Finally someone that knows how to fill a cooling system from the bottom up. That is 100% the correct way to fill any cooling system. Everything from a sportsman 500 to a BMW. Especially reverse circulation automotive applications , You fill through a disconnected radiator hose opposite of the thermostat. Depending on the system you have to follow hoses and make sure your filling through the hose that fills engine block from bottom up and always opposite of thermostat. Yes the thermostat is closed, That is why he fills slow to allow air to pass thermostat through steam hole at top of thermostat. In this case he does not have to fill through a disconnected hose because the bottom radiator hose connects to the lower part of engine opposite of thermostat. On this system you still have to do a final burping / filling procedure at radiator filler but this method will assure no air bound engine block.
Good explanation on filling from bottom up. Can you add details to the final burping process.
I don’t think it will flow out of the engine because the thermostat isn’t open. It should be fine to top off with all your hoses attached. When you get ready to run the motor, run it with the radiator cap off for a bit and jiggle your lines to get the air out. Top off as needed.
love your videos man. Just got done rebuilding my ‘95 425 magnum and your videos helped allot.
Saved my life on my 400 2 stroke
Why is my Polaris scrambler 400 2stroke spitting coolant out the red cap and overheating??
I saw you using peak antifreeze. I'm low on coolant on my 2005 polaris sportsman 500. Everything I read keeps saying you have to use some special coolant made by polaris. I figured that was BS, but obviously, you know far more than myself. I'm having a few issues with it, but yesterday was the first time mine said it was overheating while I was idling, but when I took off, it was fine. I'm not sure if that's because I'm low on coolant or what. It's also missing the pull cord, and I hear a rattling inside that cover. I'm assuming it's the bendix. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have a good one. 👍🏽 🎉
Super awesome video
If Iunderstand correctly, air bubbles will keep fluid not circulating ?
I have a 500 Polaris ranger i have bleed the radiator getting coolant out both places and the light is still on
Love your videos, keep them coming. I just rebuilt a sportsman 500 myself. Im having issues with it overheating. Took it out for a short ride and it overheated. Fluid gushing out of the overflow bottle. Tried burping the system without any luck. The fan would cycle on and off as i would expect. However the idiot light would stay on. I decided to install a new radiator and replaced all the hoses and changed the water pump propeller with an aluminum one. I even decided to replace the head gasket with a Polaris OEM head gasket. Filled the system with antifreeze. I started the engine again and the same issue of overheating. The fan cycled as it should however the idiot light came on after running 10 minutes or so and would stay on. The only thing I didnt change was the thermostat and the engine temp sensor. Which were both new. I tested the thermostat on the stove and it open and closed at the proper temperatures. I do not know what else i can do. Very frustrated. Any help would be immensely appreciated 😢.
When you replaced the head gasket did you check to see if the head was not warped? Usually when fluid backs up into the overflow it's a warped head. Combustion blowing in coolant system. Or the impeller is bad.
I made sure the head was flat. Also, I sanded it with 1000 grid sandpaper on a piece of glass. Similar to 0:04 one of your videos. It looked like a mirror. Since the temp sensor is cycling the fan as it should. And I can see antifreeze in the radiator flow on and off, indicates the thermostat is functioning as well. I'm now leaning towards a bad temperature sensor in the head. I'm also going to add a radiator hose adapter to add a temp gauge so I can actually see what the coolant temp is on the hose coming out of the thermostat. I do not know what else I can do. What should the temp be when motor is running normal? And what is the idiot light temp supposed to be?
@@dvcm27 The temp should be about 165 to open the thermostat. the temp sensor in the head runs the idiot light the one on the radiator runs the fan. depending what year it is. It sounds like you did everything right and coolant is flowing. Is it still overheating or is it just the light going on? How are the fins on the radiator? could that be bad? I would try the sensor. They are cheap.
I used a vacuum type coolant refiller. I feel pretty good about this unit. It created negative pressure in the coolant system. All the hoses collapse under the negative press. Whiched sucked out all the air. I pretty sure I got all the air out of the system. I ran the machine last night and I used an infrared temp sensor. I checked the temp on the head and cylinder and it was running around 180ish. However the idiot light came on and wouldn't go off. The thermostat and fan was cycling on and off as it should. As you said in previous thread it must be the idiot light sensor. A dam OEM one cost about $154. Crazy cost. I have the original OEM sensor I'm going to swap out. I'll keep you posted.
I changed the sensor for the idiot light. I didn't want to lose any coolant so I put the machine on it side and replaced the sensor. I didn't want to introduce any air in the system. Mission accomplished. Started the machine and ran it for over a half hour. The idiot light never came on. The machine was running between 185 and 205. I finally solved the issue. The initial issue was air in the system. Which caused the engine to over heat. And a defective idiot light sensor (cheap Chinese crap). I learned a lot from this experience. The best investment I made was the coolant system negitive vacuum tool. There's no guessing if there's air in the system or not.
How often do i need to replace my scrambler radiator hoses?
I have a 2004 polaris sportsman 700 twin and it will start and run fine but when I ride it around I have like no power in the top end tried new carb and iv also rebuilt the oem one and still no power it has a new fuel peacock and fuel pump and both spark plugs are new I'm kinda at a loss any help would be appreciated thanks keep the vids coming.
How is the timing? Plug electrode color to show if running lean?
Had this issue.
Carb wasn't giving enough gas.
Opened it and ajusted the needle, you can also change the jet for something bigger.
Cam was worn-out and two lifters where bad spent the winter rebuilding the engine.
Nice and quick tutorial! Do you happen to have any foot wells that will fit a 02 sportsman 700? I need both left and right
No I don't. I'm always in search of foot wells myself. I always have a cracked one on every machine.
@@TitaniummanGarage no worries.. Been subscribed for a minute... I just thought I'd ask... They cost to much on eBay.... Lol
@@blythdunlap8408 Yeah, The sellers like to price gouge on e bay. best bet is to find someone parting one out. Or check FB marketplace.
Yeah.. I've been watching... Something will come up. Thanks for the replying!
Found a plug (polaris 3084860) on a cylinder head drawing. Could it be a coolant bleeder bolt?
Update. Threaded plug above exhaust port. Coolant came out.
Could you ever run a 2004 polaris sportsman 500ho with no thermostat
Yes. I've done it. It will start hard in the winter, but you could do it.
Dude I blew up something in the transmission or clutch. How east are those to rebuild? What kind of oil do you use in transmission and crankcase
There pretty easy. I've done 6 of them. Try pulling the belt off first. See if you still hear the noise. If so check the clutch.
What coolant do these quads take? Thanks
Polaris has a brand that's supposed to be good for aluminum radiators. I use anything good for cars and trucks.
Have question can you replace a 1994 400L bottom end with a 1994 polaris 400 complete bottom ?Also. Im in Michigan by jackson and up in Houghton lake alot . Do you do repairs for others on side ? If so i dont see an email for you please let me know a way to contact you . Thanks tony
Are you asking if you can do a motor swap from another 400 2 stroke? Yes you can. I do light repairs for other people but not engine rebuilds.
@@TitaniummanGarage rhe until i have is an1994 400L 4x4. Need bottom end replaced or rebuilt. Guy told me he has a 1994 bottom end complete but it was on a 1994 4wd 400 sportsmen i think he said but he said it was not a 400L . I assume the bottom end same for both but was wondering if you could let me know for sure? What year 400s from 90.s are completable. Thank you in advance . I Really enjoy your channel
@@tonyd9240 you can use any 400 bottom end. even a scrambler 400. They are all the same. If you install a used one just make sure to replace the crank seals while you have it out. They are cheap and will save you a headache down the road.
@@TitaniummanGarage
Thank you so much for the information. Much appreciated.
Hey DIY blind guy here again. Your video sounds pretty good but I don’t understand what line you’re saying to leave disconnected if you can please describe a little more in detail the procedure here. I want to flush the cooling system on our 99 Scrambler 500.
No problem. I tend to talk fast sometimes in front of the camera. There is 2 ways of bleeding the system. I was referring to the top radiator hose going to the left upper side of the engine. Now I just leave the rad cap off, run it till it burps out the air. you'll have some coolant overflow. I wait 5 minutes to make sure the thermostat opens.
@@TitaniummanGarage you are the man! Il let you know how it goes
Dont wanna be a jerk but thats not even nessesary. If its not an U on the system you domt have to bleed anywere exept at the highest point. And its radi cap on those
You could be right. I have done quite a few 2 strokes and had overheating issues because of coolant lines not bled. So after that I bleed everything just to make sure there is no way possible air is trapped in the lines.
Actually that is 100% the correct way to fill any cooling system. Everything from a sportsman 500 to a BMW. Sure you can fill from the top and burp it many times and getting hot in between burp intervals. I have seen mechanics not use this method and overheat engines and warped the heads. He is filling system from the bottom up. Also the way he pours it slow helps not to trap air. I been using this method for 30 years. I would say 40 years but 40 years ago the way cooling systems were designed you could fill them through top of radiator no problem.
Isn’t that what the 10 mmbleederbolt isfor on the thermostat housing?????