I’m a woodworker and a communications teacher, and I stumbled onto your video thanks to the algorithm. I already knew about the veneers, but I have to tell you that your communication style is fantastic. You pause and present in such an excellent way and give a beautiful beautiful lesson here, man. And I even learned some things about enclosures. Blown away.
Baltic birch plywood is the one you want for subwoofer boxes it has about twice the layers as regular birch plywood and all the layers are birch and free of voids so it's quite a bit stronger.
I've never tried to separate them there's about double the layers in the Baltic birch so it's strength should be far superior to standard birch plywood and that's why it's priced accordingly.
Your one of my very favorite car audio gods. I watch as much of ur stuff as I can. Your intelligent, blunt, and break shit down soo well. To be hated is to be loved my friend. Hated by few but loved by many!
Now who is gonna be the first to argue with this man on THIS video? 🤣It never fails, someone gonna pop in this thread talking about " MB lying" "MB don't know wood like I do, cause I created wood" 😳😳😂😂😂 These fools man you gotta just laugh when they pop in! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
That's crazy you were able to completely remove a veneer in one piece. I can't believe you did it without breaking it, I guess it must be a decently thick veneer
Man, I feel stupid. They got me. It won't happen again. I appreciate your humor that kept me feeling light about it. I used the wood for light rigidity, and good looks. I did honestly wonder why the layers were so many colors....including green. Now I know. Thank you.
Good stuff to share for anyone that did t know pine subfloor matt, ply is ply , so ,resurface and make it work ...save your money THANK YOU!. Been using that since forest City in Ohio
Ok so I fell into the bottism, I am about to build a box for 6 10s and was looking at.the birtch from lowes for $73 a piece.. What would be the better wood to use?.. I remember a video of your I seen a while back explaing about some wood you get in the cabinet isle you use some time that just as good if not better.. I don't wsnt to use particle board. awesome video thanks.
Ive been working with all plywoods and MDF and HDF for years. The MDF is the best for fabricating these bopxes, but you are indeed correct its very heavy, dense, and soft so it is suseptobal to damaged corners during shipping. The pywoods at the big box stores is indeed plies of pine with a single layer of either Maple or Birch or OAK.....now the Baltic Birch plywood was designed for cabinet builders and thats why it comes in 5x5 sheets. I will say this fabricating baltic birch plywood is wonderful because it is VOID FREE...unlike the Lowes, depot products. Out west there is a supplier to Lowes called Purebond plywood which is superior to the general plywood. For me its baltic birch plywood all the way, but Im not selling my products like you so having said all that. You are indeed correct.
Big thing I’ve found with getting plywood for any finish project regardless of surface species, even pine, get it with at least one finish sanded side and if possible void free. If you get sheeting plywood and are trying to make it look nice you’ll have your work cut out for you unless you’re just carpeting it.
It used to be that you could rely on a uniform thickness of cabinet grade plywood but not any more. The manufacturers have cut so many corners in the processing that it's a gamble buying it any more. I've been finding veneer cores either lapped over each other or big gaps between veneer cores in several sheets in the last few years. It never used to be a problem. I don't like having to go over each sheet with a fine tooth comb before buying and manufacturers are taking advantage of that, once you've cut it you can't take it back.
I have found strong string between the birch ply from HD i thought it was from my shop that got stuck to it but upon further look I saw it was in the center all the way from end to end. Great video more people need to know. I appreciate your time
I assume it may vary from time to time, but i'm fairly certain they often use poplar in the center. I do believe that pine is better than poplar. Stronger heavier etc. Last time I was at home depot, I noticed that the pine plywood was definitely heavier than the birch.
Straight up FACTS!👍 True Baltic/Russian Birch is 13 layered and Hime Depot nor Blow's sells it. I had to order my true 1" BB from Forest supply in Ann Arbor Michigan👍
@@M.B.Enclosures Aye man I want to say that your putting out good car audio info bro I know alot of people are gonna hate but it is what it is the TRUTH an alot of people can't stand it so keep dropping it I'll pick it up for sho and on top of all that I just subscribe to your channel been watching you lately
@@M.B.Enclosures Aye man in the future soon I need a box built from you thinking about 4 10s soundqubed hds3.2 10s 1200rms each any other brand you recommend I'll take any good advice bro
I’m trying to shed some weight from my trunk I’ve always used 3/4 particle board/mdf what ever I can find. Going to experiment with a ply box 3/4 thick of course see if save enough pounds to make a difference new upgraded springs maybe me only option considering my two subs are bout 95 pounds each.
Ok now I'm pissed 😤 they have been lying about their products. I was not aware of this. I guess the only way to get true birch ply is to get the baltic birch. But it is so dam expensive 😩
Although its mostly pine, you do get less voids, and the ability to stain with a wood that has a great grain pattern! With proper bracing it will make a great box!
wish I saw the part where you said "MDF doesn't ship very well" before I ordered a kicker loaded enclosure ....r.i.p baffle. And I live overseas so sending things back is too expensive to make sense.......
After all that Im doing a 4 6.5" build using DC audio M3 speakers.....im probably going to make a nice box that looks spectacular and sell it. My choice of drivers is either JL audio, Kicker, Morel, Hertz, Fosgate and some others. JL Audio is always my number one choice because of the quality. They generally don't handle the power but im not looking for SPL...i am a SQ person. Ultimatley i want to go with 3 or 4 JL Audio 8w1v3 series subwoofers. My issue is the 2015 GMC Sierra has a very limited amount of space under the seat and I really don't want to raise the seat so im experimenting with 6.5" speakers but i can only squeeze maybe 2 cf of space out of my area. The biggest issue is the speaker mount area...i want to fire them forward and port out the side so as you can see my options are very limited. I may end up firing up with shallow mounts and calling it a day, but for now...its experimenting time which is always fun. BTW my current amp is the audio control LC 1.1500.
Most lumber from Home Depot and Lowe’s is crap. Cheapest grade for the average or less than average consumer aimed at convenience. None of which is acceptable for the true audio connoisseur.
I just built a box for two twelves out of 3/4 birch but I bought it at a lumber yard and it was 13 ply but it cost like $129 each sheet but it sure sounds tight when you give it a knock
Great work bro love your channel and delivery. I like saving weight so I go with the birch covered pine. What are your thoughts on using aero ports and the needed area of those being less than slots? Traditional wisdom says 6 to 9 square inches per foot( some say roughly 55 to 60% of what you need for slots) what is your opinion?
Replying to an old comment but...I love my aero ports. I have 2 15s each w 2 2" ports and each sub has 1.5xx cubic feet (after displacement and wood thickness removed). They are too small. I plan to move up to 3" ports, the current set up is loading against the subs and creating delay. The subs are Memphis M6 and each are at 1100 rms.
@@vqr50 yeah definitely need a lot more Port area for a 15 than that. If you're running three cubic feet ported for example a 6-in port will do very well. It's just physics the round opening creates less resistance to air movement than the square
@@johnnycorn7225 yessir, it's 1.5 ea side. They were walled off as a sealed box (which was the correct spec) then I posted and gained volume and some additional tones as well lost some serious compression/vibration. I need to upgrade to 3"
I'm building my 6th order series tuned wall out of mdf however I can personally tell the difference between Baltic Birch and regular Birch the density of the wood is more with Baltic Birch and there's more plies of wood the reason I can tell the difference is because I've been playing drums very very long time if you look at how a drum is made and make drums out of all different kinds of wood maple, Birch, Walnut, bubinga, etc and I've been custom building enclosures for about 12 years now regular Birch and pine that you would get from home Depot or Lowe's do sound the same but Baltic Birch which home Depot and Lowe's do not carry sounds different from regular Birch
Exactly! I've built my share of furniture, cabinets, and a ton of enclosures. If you want the quality ply, you going to have to go to a hardwood supplier. Baltic/Russian birch is far better than anything the big box stores sell, however you will pay for it.
I'm a finish carpenter by trade before my stroke and I hurt peoples feelings all the time.... In high school I worked at a lumber yard and we carried everything bc we had window and door shops on site.... Real birch is or was about 75$ a sheet back then 20 years ago
Just bought a sheet from Home Depot of Red Oak Plywood for $60. Their Pine was $58. Birch they only had 2X4 sheets for $30. Crazy prices right now. MDF for $40 of 3/4.
I always knew it was a birch veneer over pine. I can smell the pine when I cut it. Me personally I like the pine better when using a dark stain and no you can’t get better bass or sound using birch. You get a lighter box but that’s about all you get.
Yeah that's just cabinet birch, It's russian baltic birch that's the good stuff it has like 7 or 8 layers vs 4+/- of all Birch and that ply was about $90 sheet for .75", but I'm sure it's alot higher now.
I'll still go with birch because, according to Google. Birch is harder than pine. Hard pressure while writing with a pen will dent pine. Pine will not stand up to constant use in a harsh environment, and joints will loosen more easily under pressure than would birch.
@@M.B.Enclosures Lol!!!! Im just the messenger.... Love what you doing for the basshead community though. Your videos are awesome believe it or not. Thanks!!!!👍
I went with maple on my box. I'm fortunate to have an older brother that runs a lumber yard. Maple is extremely hard thats why most high end furniture that lasts the test of time is usually maple........
The only person I hated was my biological mom. I like how you show love to 8" sub's most channel's ignore them but I like them, I used to have a single skar audio ma8 and that was a little beast weighed in at 19.7lbs if I remember correctly.
You are correct about the birch you showed. Why not mention Baltic Birch, the facts that when many pros say birch they are speaking of Baltic Birch only, to not be confused by the two, and the difference between them?
The best speaker and enclosure box cabinet materials are Marine Plywood, Maple Plywood, and Nordic Birch. The ply must be the same wood all the way through, I repeat must be. Birch is very strong and light, which is why it's most often used for PA systems. These are all expensive, and not easy to find, and you must use a trusted distributor. MDF is a Hulk-cardboard. LOL MDF is easy to work with, but not a very strong box, even though it is the heaviest. Oh, and I don't hate you. 🤣
so no kitchen or bathroom. well. or Florida. lol. ill take it. and if im selling my house and making my GF happy ill taker it. if im a rich mf'er. ill make them cut it from the source.
I’m a woodworker and a communications teacher, and I stumbled onto your video thanks to the algorithm. I already knew about the veneers, but I have to tell you that your communication style is fantastic. You pause and present in such an excellent way and give a beautiful beautiful lesson here, man. And I even learned some things about enclosures. Blown away.
I work for a mill. Trust me I’ve known this for quite some time. Glad you are exposing this for folks to save them some money
Baltic birch plywood is the one you want for subwoofer boxes it has about twice the layers as regular birch plywood and all the layers are birch and free of voids so it's quite a bit stronger.
Just curious... have you tried to separate the layers on the Baltic birch plywood? I’m asking, because I know there is a big price difference.
I've never tried to separate them there's about double the layers in the Baltic birch so it's strength should be far superior to standard birch plywood and that's why it's priced accordingly.
MARINE GRADE Baltic birch.
Another great video MB keep ‘em coming! Nothing but love and support for you ♥️💪
Known that for some time now. But good to show the details. Well done!
Your one of my very favorite car audio gods. I watch as much of ur stuff as I can. Your intelligent, blunt, and break shit down soo well. To be hated is to be loved my friend. Hated by few but loved by many!
Now who is gonna be the first to argue with this man on THIS video? 🤣It never fails, someone gonna pop in this thread talking about " MB lying" "MB don't know wood like I do, cause I created wood" 😳😳😂😂😂 These fools man you gotta just laugh when they pop in! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
That's crazy you were able to completely remove a veneer in one piece. I can't believe you did it without breaking it, I guess it must be a decently thick veneer
Man, I feel stupid. They got me. It won't happen again. I appreciate your humor that kept me feeling light about it. I used the wood for light rigidity, and good looks. I did honestly wonder why the layers were so many colors....including green. Now I know. Thank you.
Good stuff to share for anyone that did t know pine subfloor matt, ply is ply , so ,resurface and make it work ...save your money THANK YOU!. Been using that since forest City in Ohio
Shiiiit. All I know is the box I just received from you sounds awesome!
Ok so I fell into the bottism, I am about to build a box for 6 10s and was looking at.the birtch from lowes for $73 a piece..
What would be the better wood to use?..
I remember a video of your I seen a while back explaing about some wood you get in the cabinet isle you use some time that just as good if not better..
I don't wsnt to use particle board.
awesome video thanks.
Ive been working with all plywoods and MDF and HDF for years. The MDF is the best for fabricating these bopxes, but you are indeed correct its very heavy, dense, and soft so it is suseptobal to damaged corners during shipping. The pywoods at the big box stores is indeed plies of pine with a single layer of either Maple or Birch or OAK.....now the Baltic Birch plywood was designed for cabinet builders and thats why it comes in 5x5 sheets. I will say this fabricating baltic birch plywood is wonderful because it is VOID FREE...unlike the Lowes, depot products. Out west there is a supplier to Lowes called Purebond plywood which is superior to the general plywood. For me its baltic birch plywood all the way, but Im not selling my products like you so having said all that. You are indeed correct.
Big thing I’ve found with getting plywood for any finish project regardless of surface species, even pine, get it with at least one finish sanded side and if possible void free. If you get sheeting plywood and are trying to make it look nice you’ll have your work cut out for you unless you’re just carpeting it.
It used to be that you could rely on a uniform thickness of cabinet grade plywood but not any more. The manufacturers have cut so many corners in the processing that it's a gamble buying it any more. I've been finding veneer cores either lapped over each other or big gaps between veneer cores in several sheets in the last few years. It never used to be a problem. I don't like having to go over each sheet with a fine tooth comb before buying and manufacturers are taking advantage of that, once you've cut it you can't take it back.
I have found strong string between the birch ply from HD i thought it was from my shop that got stuck to it but upon further look I saw it was in the center all the way from end to end. Great video more people need to know. I appreciate your time
I assume it may vary from time to time, but i'm fairly certain they often use poplar in the center. I do believe that pine is better than poplar. Stronger heavier etc. Last time I was at home depot, I noticed that the pine plywood was definitely heavier than the birch.
Thanks for the knowledge my brother ✌🏿
Love your video’s. Just tell it how it is. Keep the good content coming.
Can you do a video on port positioning.
Do u make any full acrylic subwoofer boxes or with an acrylic front piece??
Straight up FACTS!👍 True Baltic/Russian Birch is 13 layered and Hime Depot nor Blow's sells it. I had to order my true 1" BB from Forest supply in Ann Arbor Michigan👍
I remember cutting that on our saw at Depot and it would splinter so bad sometimes cause the vaneer wasn’t glued on very well lol
Very good information of the wood from were you bay it
Great show! Have you used 18mm Baltic Birch for boxes? Curious if it sounds the same.
Real Baltic birch is lighter.. acoustically I could not tell a difference
@@M.B.Enclosures Aye man I want to say that your putting out
good car audio info bro I know alot of people are gonna hate but it is what it is the TRUTH an alot of people can't stand it so keep dropping it I'll pick it up for sho and on top of all that I just subscribe to your channel been watching you lately
@@M.B.Enclosures Aye man in the future soon I need a box built from you thinking about 4 10s soundqubed hds3.2 10s 1200rms each any other brand you recommend I'll take any good advice bro
@@TheOnee7899 when you ready text me 404 694 4818
@@M.B.Enclosures ok bet locking you in now
I’m trying to shed some weight from my trunk I’ve always used 3/4 particle board/mdf what ever I can find. Going to experiment with a ply box 3/4 thick of course see if save enough pounds to make a difference new upgraded springs maybe me only option considering my two subs are bout 95 pounds each.
MBE what about Baltic Birch, is it the same?
keep the facts comin MB thumbs UP man
Ooooooh Weeeee I know they Madd! Building those Pine Boxes... 🤣😂🤣
Ok now I'm pissed 😤 they have been lying about their products. I was not aware of this. I guess the only way to get true birch ply is to get the baltic birch. But it is so dam expensive 😩
They haven't been lying, but they do take advantage of the ignorant.
Dam somebody been getting over lol😂😤
Once again thank you for the knowledge.
So no sound difference but how about strength? Would i need thicker with pine than a really nice baltic birch?
No... not if it constructed right
Of course it's veneer, I thought everyone knew that.
Although its mostly pine, you do get less voids, and the ability to stain with a wood that has a great grain pattern! With proper bracing it will make a great box!
wish I saw the part where you said "MDF doesn't ship very well" before I ordered a kicker loaded enclosure ....r.i.p baffle.
And I live overseas so sending things back is too expensive to make sense.......
After all that Im doing a 4 6.5" build using DC audio M3 speakers.....im probably going to make a nice box that looks spectacular and sell it. My choice of drivers is either JL audio, Kicker, Morel, Hertz, Fosgate and some others. JL Audio is always my number one choice because of the quality. They generally don't handle the power but im not looking for SPL...i am a SQ person. Ultimatley i want to go with 3 or 4 JL Audio 8w1v3 series subwoofers. My issue is the 2015 GMC Sierra has a very limited amount of space under the seat and I really don't want to raise the seat so im experimenting with 6.5" speakers but i can only squeeze maybe 2 cf of space out of my area. The biggest issue is the speaker mount area...i want to fire them forward and port out the side so as you can see my options are very limited. I may end up firing up with shallow mounts and calling it a day, but for now...its experimenting time which is always fun. BTW my current amp is the audio control LC 1.1500.
Most lumber from Home Depot and Lowe’s is crap. Cheapest grade for the average or less than average consumer aimed at convenience. None of which is acceptable for the true audio connoisseur.
Facts!!
How much to get a box built for 4 t1 d4 12s subs facing the ceiling ported
Man a lot of us Love the shit out of you! Keep pissing people off and I'll keep loving it. Big giant thumbs up
Speak the truth brother
Density is key The lighter the wood of same size, the less dense.
Keep preaching to en brother 💯
What about 13ply birch? Is it birch on all layers?
ALL FACTS... Man this channel is the truth!!!!...
Where you located
Nice. That’s what I’m talking about. These guys don’t know. Cool video bro. 👍👍👍💯💯
Can’t wait for the tree expert to come argue with you 😂
Problem is there’s no other store near that sell just one sheet of 4x8 pure cabinet grade plywood. I’ve tried and tried and gave up. Thanks!
Thanks brother your videos are great.
Thanks for the info keep on making good videos preach...
I just built a box for two twelves out of 3/4 birch but I bought it at a lumber yard and it was 13 ply but it cost like $129 each sheet but it sure sounds tight when you give it a knock
That's exactly what I was telling someone the other day. I found that out a few months ago. After I sanded threw the first layer
So whats the best wood to use from home depot then?
None
Thanks for the knowledge. 👍
Great work bro love your channel and delivery. I like saving weight so I go with the birch covered pine.
What are your thoughts on using aero ports and the needed area of those being less than slots?
Traditional wisdom says 6 to 9 square inches per foot( some say roughly 55 to 60% of what you need for slots) what is your opinion?
Replying to an old comment but...I love my aero ports. I have 2 15s each w 2 2" ports and each sub has 1.5xx cubic feet (after displacement and wood thickness removed). They are too small. I plan to move up to 3" ports, the current set up is loading against the subs and creating delay. The subs are Memphis M6 and each are at 1100 rms.
@@vqr50 yeah definitely need a lot more Port area for a 15 than that.
If you're running three cubic feet ported for example a 6-in port will do very well.
It's just physics the round opening creates less resistance to air movement than the square
@@johnnycorn7225 yessir, it's 1.5 ea side. They were walled off as a sealed box (which was the correct spec) then I posted and gained volume and some additional tones as well lost some serious compression/vibration. I need to upgrade to 3"
@@vqr50 are made to run in 1.5 cubes ported that's an insanely small box size
@@johnnycorn7225 no sir I miss quoted. It's 3 cubic ft a side which is the sealed parameter. 6 ft cubed is the ported volume 😳
Yeah, that's why I only do the 13-ply baltic birch! I see that 5 and 7-ply junk and keep walking.
Yo man. My local Lowes birch plywood has Oak printed on the side. What you think about that?
Probably the maple plywood they sell at HD or Lowes is the same.
I can attest to this. My birch plywood is starting to peel at the corners or the bench I built from it.
I'm building my 6th order series tuned wall out of mdf however I can personally tell the difference between Baltic Birch and regular Birch the density of the wood is more with Baltic Birch and there's more plies of wood the reason I can tell the difference is because I've been playing drums very very long time if you look at how a drum is made and make drums out of all different kinds of wood maple, Birch, Walnut, bubinga, etc and I've been custom building enclosures for about 12 years now regular Birch and pine that you would get from home Depot or Lowe's do sound the same but Baltic Birch which home Depot and Lowe's do not carry sounds different from regular Birch
The real baltic birch is 5'x5'.
Yes sir.. and it not at Home Depot or Lowe’s
Can also get it in 4x8 and 5x12
MB, just in case you haven't changed the title, it says Hime Depot instead of Home Depot if you wanted to go for that one.
💡You have to be able to read between the lines😂 Trust me it's done in purpose👍
Exactly! I've built my share of furniture, cabinets, and a ton of enclosures. If you want the quality ply, you going to have to go to a hardwood supplier. Baltic/Russian birch is far better than anything the big box stores sell, however you will pay for it.
Surely this is illegal right? That’s wild. Like $90 a sheet from the Home Depot near me
Dont forget the weight as well. Mdf is super heavy
Your voice sounds just like Bernie Mac when he’s lecturing the Kids on the Bernie Mac show 😆😆
Great video man! No arguing with that!!
I'm a finish carpenter by trade before my stroke and I hurt peoples feelings all the time.... In high school I worked at a lumber yard and we carried everything bc we had window and door shops on site.... Real birch is or was about 75$ a sheet back then 20 years ago
Just bought a sheet from Home Depot of Red Oak Plywood for $60. Their Pine was $58. Birch they only had 2X4 sheets for $30. Crazy prices right now.
MDF for $40 of 3/4.
@@ogscythe6118 I like their Red Oak, looks great just rubbing it with linseed oil.
I always knew it was a birch veneer over pine. I can smell the pine when I cut it. Me personally I like the pine better when using a dark stain and no you can’t get better bass or sound using birch. You get a lighter box but that’s about all you get.
DAMN I BROUGHT MINES FROM MEANARDS, I FIGURED THAT MATERIAL WAS FUNNY BECAUSE YOU CAN PUT ANYTHING BETWEEN 15 LAYERS PRESSED THINK YOU MR.MBM
Good video man
Yeah that's just cabinet birch, It's russian baltic birch that's the good stuff it has like 7 or 8 layers vs 4+/- of all Birch and that ply was about $90 sheet for .75", but I'm sure it's alot higher now.
Dang, thank you for sharing
I'll still go with birch because, according to Google. Birch is harder than pine. Hard pressure while writing with a pen will dent pine. Pine will not stand up to constant use in a harsh environment, and joints will loosen more easily under pressure than would birch.
Yeah right…hard pressure will leave groove in any wood. More BS…
@@M.B.Enclosures Lol!!!! Im just the messenger.... Love what you doing for the basshead community though. Your videos are awesome believe it or not. Thanks!!!!👍
Man I was about to buy some too.
I went with maple on my box. I'm fortunate to have an older brother that runs a lumber yard. Maple is extremely hard thats why most high end furniture that lasts the test of time is usually maple........
Lumber yard solid wood. Or even rough cut wood from a sawmill......like concrete, you can hit it with the D-8 it ain't going anywhere!!!!
My last enclosure was "birch" junk heavy and splintered like crazy putting it together. Rather just use MDF
Duh. The sign on the rack says veneer, you ain’t exposing anything🤣🤣🤣
Lol, I bet that thing was a bear to get separated 😂
Your wife Gonna be on your azz about scratching that table with that imitation birch.!
Damn black-market Birch
The man is right.
Thank you
Case closed, he knows his woods 😂😂
Awesome video bro
Love it!!!
The only person I hated was my biological mom. I like how you show love to 8" sub's most channel's ignore them but I like them, I used to have a single skar audio ma8 and that was a little beast weighed in at 19.7lbs if I remember correctly.
I’m running a single 8 now that’s 40 pounds! It’s a killer. Made my CAS-Crystal Audio Solutions. On sale for $299 right now. Things a beast.
@@kimlabrie7472 I can't find a video on it.
I like this dude he's real as fuck speaking truth
You are correct about the birch you showed. Why not mention Baltic Birch, the facts that when many pros say birch they are speaking of Baltic Birch only, to not be confused by the two, and the difference between them?
I’m going to show it... but there is no acoustical difference you can hear. MDF is still the best for subwoofer boxes acoustically
Yes I love my MDF
The best speaker and enclosure box cabinet materials are Marine Plywood, Maple Plywood, and Nordic Birch.
The ply must be the same wood all the way through, I repeat must be.
Birch is very strong and light, which is why it's most often used for PA systems.
These are all expensive, and not easy to find, and you must use a trusted distributor.
MDF is a Hulk-cardboard. LOL MDF is easy to work with, but not a very strong box, even though it is the heaviest.
Oh, and I don't hate you.
🤣
mines that hardwood maple stuff. sounds fine.
Good video
Fact not fiction.
wow knowledge is power
Very entertaining
Salute!!
Facts
so no kitchen or bathroom. well. or Florida. lol. ill take it. and if im selling my house and making my GF happy ill taker it. if im a rich mf'er. ill make them cut it from the source.
Wow