Removing the Drillpipe
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- from www.drillyourow... - "Drill Your Own Well" series. After drilling a hole, it can be crucial to be able to safely remove the drill pipe. A technique for removing the drill pipe is demonstrated in this video.
I have a question. Why couldn't you drill a series of holes -or cut a series of thin slots in the drill tube extending up about 18 inches from the bottom joint, thus allowing one to leave the drill tube in the hole and serve as a casing ? My first thought is, the pressurized water from the trash pump would escape (out) thru the proposed holes, thus reducing the washing effect at the drill bit, but then another part of me thinks that water will simply combine with what would normally exit the drill bit and help carry the debris to the top, just the same. Have you ever thought of this, or tried it ? Thanks.
Wouldn’t the “drill pipe” serve as the “casing” of the well?
Yes, exactly.
@@dawmlw ok so then you’re only pulling the drill pipe out far enough to expose the well screen…?
@@the_truck_farmer Yes, exactly.
Good video, I'm curious if you think it'd be possible to use a threaded coupling instead of glueing? I was thinking maybe shooting a self-tapping screw through the coupling after it was screwed tight would act as a set screw and hold the joint while working it, but allow the pieces to be reused afterwards. I'd surely appreciate your thoughts.
Threaded couplings will work great. You won't even need the set screw as long as you predominantly only spin the pipe in the clockwise direction while drilling your well. Pull up off the bottom when you need to spin counter-clockwise so that the pipe has nothing to rub against that might catch and aid the threaded couplings to unscrew. Generally, the threaded PVC joints eventually get so tight that it usually isn't a problem going counter-clockwise by hand anyway.
They work great when they work and they sure are convenient. The problem is they are not as strong. When they break off 15 feet into the ground, it is a real problem.
True that. Luckily, I haven't broken any so far.
My dad bought some schedule 80 pipe at a yard sale. The pipes had been male threaded on one end and bell female threaded on the other. These threads were cut directly into the pipe at the factory (no glue on couplings).
Unfortunately, the pipes were originally 20' long and he had to cut them in half to fit in his car. I glued on some couplings, but then I got smart. Got a pipe threading die to rebuild the missing male threads on the half of the pipes that still had a factory female bell thread. Much stronger and perfectly straight.
When gluing on couplings, make sure to press the two pieces of PVC together tight (and hold it tight until the glue sets) so that the coupling is on perfectly straight. Nothing worse than having a slightly bent joint when trying to stick it down a narrow hole and drill.
Schedule 80!! I have not tried that. Maybe Schedule 80 threads are tough enough not to break. Please let me know how it works out if you try it. Good luck!
Thank you so much for your website and videos! They were very inspiring and motivating.
so after removing this 2"pvc pipe you just drop in the 114"pvc pipe with the strainer
Yes.
I can't find a mud pump. Will a trash pump do the job?
+renthal971 Yes, absolutely. They are the same thing at lower power levels like we operate at. Just a pump that can tolerate a lot of sand.
depends on the soil,,, i have way to much rocky soil to go down 6 even inches.
Where did you get your coupler?
+PaulRevere2020 Lowes
almost took your eye! glad your alright
Me too!!!
Like using a knife, cut away from the flesh, not toward. That could be another trip to emergency.
ya472 You are right!
Awesome, just awesome
I'm glad you liked it!
Good ideas dawmlw...
Robert Ballast Thanks! and thanks for watching!
Do more BBQ videos!
***** Paul, I have one planned for ribs but I have a few more things to do on the drill your own well website first. I'm glad you like them!