Route Setting a Boulder - Thoughts, Tweaking & Testing Process
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2019
- Some people asked for more route setting content and behind the scenes information: This episode covers a lot of thinking, tweaking & testing a problem - in this case a black boulder at urban climb west end in brisbane / australia.
we hope you enjoy the pretty detailed episode about one boulder and promis to buy a gimbal asap!
westend
www.urbanclimb.com.au
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--------Cameras Used To Shoot This Video ------
Panasonic Lumix GH4
Lense:
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40 mm 1:2.8
SanDisc 64 GB SD Card
Rode
This VIDEO was edited with Final Cut Pro on a Macbook Pro and iMac
About this video:
In this videos we behind Beta Routesetting share our passion for Climbing, Bouldering and our profession: Route Setting!
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support! - Спорт
We LOVE these videos. totally geeking out on how body positioning against the holds and volumes works and the minute changes needed to force the moves. More videos just like this and we are happy campers!
Cool! Makes us all happy then 😊
I must say I'm quite happy to see this kind of video, especially on a problem that isn't some new school jump around kind of climbing which I simply don't care about ! Hoping to see more behind the scenes like that and more of "old school" climbing as well on your channel !
We’ll try to keep it mixed! Thank you for the feedback 😊
This is awesome! Every tweak is explained in great detail. Nice Niki!
Setting now for a bit more than a year and the hardest is still to make a move work for as many types of climbers as possible. I find myself often in discussions with smaller people (myself also only 1,75m), that they can't do a boulder cause of length. Sometimes I can help them by trying different techniques, but doesn't work all the time. In comparison, tall people often shortcut the boulder, which is also sub-optimal, since it makes the boulder more dull.
Since you moved volumes in this video, for better hip placement, how you know it's the most comfortable position for everyone. I can imagine, that especially hip placement varies a lot, due to different sizes. Or do you have an average height, where you just settler as a setter?
Keep on setting! Thanks for the vids.
Yeah, this is definently something I struggle with in my gym as well, because there are a lot of kids here, so the height difference is quite high. I think it slowly comes with a lot of setting, but also sometimes I just build stuff that is focused on the kids, and other times I just build something cool, and then maybe you will have a really hard time climbing it if you're very short. But then again, short people can often come up with a different beta that works for just them. Sometimes tall guys (and girls) have a hard time as well, because the problem may recuire you to be very closet together or something. So yeah:)
that is something which can be a neverending problem but something which increases with experience. if you can use volumes - volumes offer a bigger surface to stand on with the same angle for every height which can make it more fair.
maybe i try to make an episode about it because it´s really hard to express how to avoid it without examples.
cheers niki
Whenever I can't do a boulder problem, I shrug and walk away muttering "short person problem...."
Nice one mate.. we're learning from you..
Excellent video man! The camera work, explanation, editing was all great. I really like to see how other setters work and the movement they come up with. This one looks really cool!
Cool, thx ian!
Love these videos! Keep em up!
I love these kind of videos about the thought that went into a boulder. How did you end up in Australia, are you on a WHV or some kind of sponsorship? Cheers!
We started here with a WHV now on a sponsored visa for the next few months :) thank you!
How did you manage to arrange the guest routesetting at all these different gyms?
At Urban Climb in particular, do setters have a lot of flexibility in making all of these modifications to each bloc, or is it mainly for 'comp style' problems?
Hey Andy:
1. We from Beta Routesetting all have our own gyms as regular setters / co owners in germany, but besides this we´re doing a lot of guest sets at other gyms as well.
I´m currently working in Australia since he beginning of 2018, started working at 9 Degrees in Sydney and then moved to Brisbane to work at Urban Climb until February... but even here i was guest setting at Blochaus or Beyond Bouldering in Adelaide.
Manu for example is travelling each week one to radium boulders from dusseldorf & tobi is setting at munster & in spich in germany.
is this what you wanted to know?
in general if you are known for your work you get asked by other gyms to come and guest set :)
2. All these modifications are called tweaks before we open a climb to the public community... it´s a common thing to set holds and then try and climb it wether it´s possible and cool the way you intended your boulder to be... if not we tweak holds / moves until it turns out the way you want it to be... sometimes you end up with something entirely different but most of the times you have something in mind and try to achieve that.
i don´t know of any gyms where you can´t modify your boulder after setting - if a gym would do that we wouldn´t work there...
some gyms spend more time for tweaking and testing others less... i like spending the time needed to tweak a boulder and urban climb offers this which is awesome.
this is not restricted to "comp" style boulders - even though we have a time limit until we kind of want to be finished with our set - sometimes it takes longer (like the black boulder which took me 2 days) but then we all learn a lot...
i hope i could answer your questions with this - if something is still not clear just tell me what you need to know :)
cheers niki
How long did the whole process take? How long do you need in average to set a boulder?
This one took maybe 30-45 mins setting due to heavy ladder shifting. Otherwise it would have been quicker. Testing maybe 30-45 mins as well - hard to tell with all the additional camera work and the heat.
But sometimes it’s quicker or way slower depending on how complex the boulder is... if you want to force certain dynamic movements it may take longer if the wall / hold selection doesn’t fit the boulder.
@@BetaRoutesetting Thanks :) Keep up the good work with the videos, very interesting!
most of the time he`s sitting on the matt crying due to have no idea and the other do the work