I was a tech at VW/Audi for 47 years in the salt belt and have seen my share of green, I would have thought you would see more of it because of floods. Good diagnosis. I just subscribed.
I love these jobs. I always start with what got changed. It's usually always shade tree related. The problem is that the fix is always simple. The hard part is making sure you have the right info. I spend hours finding the right components because what i see and what alldata and mitchell show are totally different. It's hard to make money if you are chasing wire colors. Thanks, guys, and you, professor. You take the time to fix it right and share it with us.
With Audi/VW it's always best to pull the diagrams directly from the Erwin website. All the aftermarket diagrams are wrong on these cars or missing data
100K get you a silver play button. it’s very interesting to see how people work on Audi. i’ve been working on Audis for the last 8 years at a few different dealers and i like to see how people take different steps with them.
Submarine Service Electronic Tech did you say “Green crusties” 😅😂 Always start at the tampered module in the circuit. Always look for physical damage first then break out the multimeter. People just don’t understand that water, salt and electricity don’t mix. Always keep all your drains clean and don’t create water deposits where they don’t belong. Enjoyed watching.
The reality is most dealers / shop don’t even come close to the level of care and experience that is shown in this video :( It’s the norm to scam customers these days… I’ve wasted over 5k listening to them and every, single, time… my problem remains and nothing is improved or different… infuriating
Love all your content fellas. Trying watch them all and absorb all i can. Thank you for your time and efforts... working, diaging, creating videos, and editing. This is all priceless information to me. I really appreciate it. 🙏
Had so many audis and vw' s over the years with blocked drain holes on the bulk head causing water problems! Also the old corsa d diesel had the ecu in the drain on the bulk head. Madness! Grat watch buddy, hi from a wet uk.
This is why I made some slight modification to the Uactivate by adding relay harnesses for the break out leads. This way I can test the relays directly with the tool
At the very beginning of the video, there was liquid in the little recess in the fuse cover. I'm thinking, water got into the fuse block and messed stuff up. Mercedes are very susceptible to that sort of thing. As you said, I'm surprised the damage was not more extensive. But the story ain't over yet!
Great video as always. That uactivate is an amazing tool once you get the hang of it. When you had it plugged in I noticed the LED at the bottom on the control side was not lit. If you would have wiggled that adapter down in then at control LED would have lit to let you know you had contact.
Looks like a WMI system installed there in the trunk, they’re great when installed using high quality components, lines, and a high quality controller. Along with the failsafes enabled and an engine calibration specialist who knows the platform well.
When the owner does his own mods, and he allows water to penetrate the tipm, he deserves to have the expense of the repair. Make sure you charge for diagnostic time, parts, and repair costs!
I love AESwave and the Uactivate is a great looking tool and all but I talked myself out of buying one multiple times as it’s hard to force myself to spend that on a tool when I can do the same tests with a test light and a fused jumper.
Scanner Danner will show you how to use u …activate! You are one super cool cat love the videos keep up the great work. This old dog has learned many new tricks! Thanks to guys like you, Paul & Caleb Danner’ Ivan Pinehollow on a diagnostics South Main auto Eric O. , Super Mario, and G Trulia! Thanks to all of you!!
Great job finding out what was wrong! The second I saw that the main EMC and all body electronics junction box was in the drain area I knew that it's going to be the problem. Just watch how the locating clips of the lid-hooks create a lovely path for the water into the junction box. No gap from the firewall that could prevent any issues. That is piss poor German engineering at its best. Sprinkle this with a bit of pure stupidity (an open lid of an electronic junction box in a drain area) and you have a mystery. "Dear mechanic I've been pouring water into my ECM module and main junction box and the car won't start now. Please help me to diagnose what's wrong." Very well diagnosed. FYI. You can buy a set of relays with just a switch on their top to isolate control/function site issues easily. You replace these with the original relay and you can manually switch on/off any circuits. I hope this helps.
I wish you were in Florida having issues with my DME not communicating with my BMW. Going to change a relay, but I’m sure you’d find it with your methodology.
I've did one few weeks ago on one A6 4F. That is Main terminal 30 Relay. Someone messed up with ECU and didnt thight that ECU box cover. With this one is the same because of that fat red aftermarket cable for Who knows what. But good job. 🎉😂
My daughter bought a car from a "mechanic" who work at a GM dealer. You should have seen the half ass stuff this kid did to this car with the after market sound system. He ran big cables through the door weather striping causing the inside of the car to fill with water. he wrapped the main power cable counter clockwise around the battery terminal, instead of using an eyelet connector.
QUICK-WITTED, Royalty Auto Service Brilliant video outstanding films 🎥,thank you 📷 man 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21:47PM Good Evening
I have a 2016 Audi A4 Quatro that uses 1 quart of oil every 200 miles. While driving behind the A4, it will puff white smoke when taking off from a stop light and then no more smoke. The PCV was changed; no help. I don't think it's rings since it doesn't smoke all the time. Would I be correct to assume it's the valve guide seals? I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I have no experience in this area. Thoughts? Is this something I could do myself or ????
That's a very common problem area on Audi's of that style. The way they had that ran didn't help but believe me it's just a matter of time before they have issues there. N let us see the codes next time and start the car to make sure it's good. So we can see.
VAG cars keep those relays,fuses and ECU under the plastic connected to the windshield it’s crucial to keep that area clean as much as possible….why? So there are two drainage holes for water when does get clogged with debris guess what happens all those electrical components get damaged and will not for sure be cheap and easy fix don’t ask me how I know…
@@johnmac9055 also it’s need to check drainage on sunroof to I mean this part of maintenance every 20k should be checked and cleaned but we know who this goes
Good vid. I could tell from the way you were laughing during the intro . it would be interesting. Really laughed about the too many tools. It's not the number, it's keeping track of the stuff you have. See George Carlin.
Moral of the story: Mod your car, expect problems. I've seen plenty of post-mod unintended (unpleasant) consequences. Many-many are just shockingly poor workmanship, poor placement, missed brackets, screws, connections.
90% of the time, with vehicles or things around the house, the problems are caused by the person working on something prior to me being called. First thing I always ask, "Was anyone working on this before me and if so, what did you pay them to do?".
I know ur give away, some lucky viewer gets car dialed, n repaired 1000. Limit to honor 100000, clients lol love ya guys, if I get to see my grand daughter in FL pan handle wld love to stop by to do a diag with you sherwood.
Around 20min in, it'd sure help if you learn to read wiring diagrams and how the tools work (when you selected the wire it highlighted that all of those wires are fed from the relay)
@theroyaltyautoservice Hi. My A4 battery died, tried to jump start it nothing happened. Got a new battery also getting random communication codes. Car cranks but no start. Ref counter doesn't move. Please help
Be careful with the euro cars and those relay bypass tools sometime bmw, audi/vw will use a relay that has the same pin layout but the internal wiring is different from a standar relay.
I respectfully disagree with this as a blanket statement, poorly installed or cheaply made parts can make a car less reliable sure. People will always customize their vehicles, and have every right to do so, as long as it does not disable or delete any emissions equipment and have not made the vehicle dangerous in anyway to drive on public roads. For a dedicated track car or a display only vehicle you’re only then they are only restricted in modification by the class they want to run in. Back to modifications and leaving a a car factory, I don’t know your background or the vehicles you like to drive or if you even care what you drive. OEM’s need to build and install calibrations into the their vehicles ECU that can be used in all different climates and altitudes be it a North American vehicle or a global market vehicle. Often times they just don’t get it right and in many cases the vehicle reliability, performance, and drivability suffers for it. I’ve yet to see a vehicle (even some exotics) who’s drivability couldn’t greatly improved upon with a little simple smoothing out the some of the critical maps in the ECU. Then you get into the VVTI, VCT, VTEC, Mivec, etc systems or the Electronic Throttle Body maps and simple safe adjustments to these can make a car a lot more responsive and a safer car is one that you can give you confidence when accelerating and braking This goes into parts added to you vehicle, which in the case of many of the newer vehicles on the market are now coming with turbocharging from the factory, you want to discuss reliability and consistency. Take a new GDI with a turbo for instance, problem one they are gasoline engines that are direct injected. Fuel injects directly into the combustion chamber not into the intake manifold through the intake manifold. Unless you have a walnut blaster machine to clean these valves or are pulling the manifold in some sort of maintenance interval, you can damage that engine, funny how none of the manufacturers have this listed in their maintenance specs, speaking GDI especially ones with turbochargers, all GDI vehicles come with the risk of a phenomenon called LSPI, which is another engine destroyer, 3 of the best possible things you can rod to prevent are - Never lug your engine along meaning load at low RPM, -Install a Air Oil Separator or well designed set of OIL Catch Cans to stop all that crap getting run back through your engine increasing potential for not only LSPI but carbon build up a So -Change your oil often, very often, no more then 3k often, which your manufacturer tells you 6, 8, 10k. You’ll be lucky if your car makes it to 100k. For a GDI engine you’re safest to choose a proper 100% Synthetic oil of the Group IV, V variety that’s been tested extensively and has passed GM’s LSPI testing guidelines. Which are oils that you’re not buying from, your local Walmart that say Full Synthetic. Full Synthetic is NOT 100% synthetic oil. -Lastly you can help to combat against LSPI with some good ECU mapping, BTW im 44 and one of my modified vehicles is over 20yrs old, has never left me stranded, and is making 2.5X the factory claimed HP and TQ figures to the tire, and still has the 100% factory drivetrain and block, con rods, and pistons. clutch and cylinder head are upgraded with better then factory components as well as is every suspension, fueling, amd ignition component in the vehicle. Key is to maintain your vehicle and it will last for you. Unless it’s a Kia, don’t buy a new Kia opening the door has been known to explode the engine
as long as you purchase good parts and don’t do stupid modifications, i believe your statement isn’t necessarily correct. some tasteful mods can improve cars. there are a few mods on these vehicles that actually improve them.
I’m with you on leave it alone,if the factory thought those mods would make the car perform better they would’ve done it themselves but what do I know I’m only a Toyota,Chrysler,Nissan and BMW factory trained master mechanic of 40 years and counting.
so my audi 2009 a4 avant was running and driving just fine and it wont start nomore unless u wait a while. i got it towed to audi and they said sum about the sunroof leaking but im confused it randomly ran and drove when i got it back to post btw my car is stock original parts
Scanner Danner did a YT video 6 years ago (dated Jan 20, 2018, titled "No Start Testing Basics - Spark, Injector Pulse and Fuel Pressure (Hyundai Santa Fe, ua-cam.com/video/sq0HLREinNU/v-deo.html )" in which he demonstrates the use of the older version of the AES Wave uActivate relay test tool. At 30 minutes to 40 minutes into SD's vid (as well as a laughable example of "expectation bias" at 36 min & 35 seconds in), and again from 49 minutes to the end, is far and away the clearest, most concise explanation of the use of the AES Wave uActivate I have seen ANYWHERE on YT or elsewhere on the internet. Both with and without the use of a scope and amp clamp. AES should stitch these two segments together just to show the tools versatility, and with proper knowledge to back its use up, also add speed to the diagnostic process. I love mine, and am shocked by many who bought it (incl the older version) and whom have never used it, or are maddingly, blindly unaware of its capabilities. Of course, one must have a full and clear understanding of automotive electrical theory to put it to its best use, and also not misuse it, or you could seriously damage components (similar to weaponizing a Power Probe if you don't know what you are doing) by sticking other tools into the banana jacks (doubling as test ports), like for example a Power Probe or test light into the wrong ports. Sure, if you've been around for awhile you probably are already doing the same thing with a test light and a fused jumper, like a lot have for years. But for someone who hasn't, and is also trying to speed up the diagnostic process, this works very well. In Sherwood's case here it turns out the real issue was the relay / fuse box connections underneath, but the uActivate (or a fused jumper wire and test light) can help to prove or eliminate other causes. Also, please get rid of that 190 or earlier Relay Buddy & update to the newer version. They often give false readings, as they do not load the relay, and drove/drive a lot of people crazy chasing their tails when the tester shows a relay "passes" as good. The newer version, the 194 (or 195 kit) actually put in a small load and are much more reliable. I literally threw my old 190 in the garbage when I got the 195 kit. Same goes for the newest Lisle mechanic's stethoscopes (the ones with the bellows in the middle). They absolutely blow away the sound clarity vs the older versions. Again, tossed my old Lisle's ears in the trash after getting both versions of the newest stetho.
Did someone say green crusties!? ❤
No money shot 😢
@@SouthMainAuto your crusties sense was tingling.
Holy crap. There he is. I'm star struck. Lol
There's your problem lady!
I was a tech at VW/Audi for 47 years in the salt belt and have seen my share of green, I would have thought you would see more of it because of floods. Good diagnosis. I just subscribed.
I love tow truck drivers placement of vehicles. It doesn't matter the shop or state it's always dropped in an inconvenient spot
I love these jobs. I always start with what got changed. It's usually always shade tree related. The problem is that the fix is always simple. The hard part is making sure you have the right info. I spend hours finding the right components because what i see and what alldata and mitchell show are totally different. It's hard to make money if you are chasing wire colors. Thanks, guys, and you, professor. You take the time to fix it right and share it with us.
With Audi/VW it's always best to pull the diagrams directly from the Erwin website. All the aftermarket diagrams are wrong on these cars or missing data
100K get you a silver play button.
it’s very interesting to see how people work on Audi. i’ve been working on Audis for the last 8 years at a few different dealers and i like to see how people take different steps with them.
Submarine Service Electronic Tech did you say “Green crusties” 😅😂 Always start at the tampered module in the circuit. Always look for physical damage first then break out the multimeter. People just don’t understand that water, salt and electricity don’t mix. Always keep all your drains clean and don’t create water deposits where they don’t belong. Enjoyed watching.
Well, this basically sums up my opinion of mods. People usually eff something else up in the process!
Can’t beat the smile at the end. Well done guys. Enjoyed the video. Keep up the good work and sharing the knowledge. X
thanks for the transparency. This is the reality of diagnostic work and what your 100.00 or more to solution pays for, dont change a thing
The reality is most dealers / shop don’t even come close to the level of care and experience that is shown in this video :(
It’s the norm to scam customers these days… I’ve wasted over 5k listening to them and every, single, time… my problem remains and nothing is improved or different… infuriating
Absolutly no worries about the audio.....you know some of us appreciate the ASMR aspect of it.
Love all your content fellas. Trying watch them all and absorb all i can. Thank you for your time and efforts... working, diaging, creating videos, and editing. This is all priceless information to me. I really appreciate it. 🙏
Had so many audis and vw' s over the years with blocked drain holes on the bulk head causing water problems! Also the old corsa d diesel had the ecu in the drain on the bulk head. Madness! Grat watch buddy, hi from a wet uk.
"Let me check that wiring diagram, one more time." I know that feeling.😃
This is why I made some slight modification to the Uactivate by adding relay harnesses for the break out leads. This way I can test the relays directly with the tool
actually you can test relay without special tools
Eric can smell the green crusties when the car is in the parking lot! LOL
I love me some green 💚
Haha, yep!
At the very beginning of the video, there was liquid in the little recess in the fuse cover. I'm thinking, water got into the fuse block and messed stuff up. Mercedes are very susceptible to that sort of thing. As you said, I'm surprised the damage was not more extensive. But the story ain't over yet!
As soon as I saw the K&N filter I knew this was going to be a problem child.
Great video as always. That uactivate is an amazing tool once you get the hang of it. When you had it plugged in I noticed the LED at the bottom on the control side was not lit. If you would have wiggled that adapter down in then at control LED would have lit to let you know you had contact.
Awesome video I see the green crusties a lot like Eco says.
Amazing catch 👏 kids modifying there car sometimes spells trouble. Really great job!
Looks like a WMI system installed there in the trunk, they’re great when installed using high quality components, lines, and a high quality controller. Along with the failsafes enabled and an engine calibration specialist who knows the platform well.
Good job and i like how you try to find good tools for your test
GREAT VIDEO ,,, JUST ONE QUESTION FOR NOW WHICH TOPDON SCANNER IS THAT THANKS ????????????
That is the top don phoenix lite 2. I have the same one. It is a great scan tool.
Phoenix Lite
The little tank on trunk is water methanol injection
Wow..
Respect is all I have for you.
I love your videos sooooo much man. Could use a little editing down is my only critique. Keep up the good work!
Love that Steely see you in Vegas🎉
Appreciate the constructive criticism! We will definitely try and work on that and get better! 👍
@@theroyaltyautoservice NO!!! Don't change a thing PLEASE!!! Sooo interesting...Feels like we are rushing and trying to find a solution with you !!
When the owner does his own mods, and he allows water to penetrate the tipm, he deserves to have the expense of the repair. Make sure you charge for diagnostic time, parts, and repair costs!
Great job guys. Keep the videos coming.🤩
Good diagnosis.
Nice video. Personally never thought about testing a relay the way you did with a test light but I will give that a try in the future!
Just curious to why the corrosion wasn’t addressed at the time you saw it at first
Extra labor needed to be approved probably. Also, needed to confirm the relay was/wasn't working.
Eric O sent me.
god bless you sherwood
I love AESwave and the Uactivate is a great looking tool and all but I talked myself out of buying one multiple times as it’s hard to force myself to spend that on a tool when I can do the same tests with a test light and a fused jumper.
Scanner Danner will show you how to use u …activate! You are one super cool cat love the videos keep up the great work. This old dog has learned many new tricks! Thanks to guys like you, Paul & Caleb Danner’ Ivan Pinehollow on a diagnostics South Main auto Eric O. , Super Mario, and G Trulia! Thanks to all of you!!
Great job finding out what was wrong!
The second I saw that the main EMC and all body electronics junction box was in the drain area I knew that it's going to be the problem. Just watch how the locating clips of the lid-hooks create a lovely path for the water into the junction box. No gap from the firewall that could prevent any issues. That is piss poor German engineering at its best.
Sprinkle this with a bit of pure stupidity (an open lid of an electronic junction box in a drain area) and you have a mystery.
"Dear mechanic I've been pouring water into my ECM module and main junction box and the car won't start now. Please help me to diagnose what's wrong."
Very well diagnosed. FYI. You can buy a set of relays with just a switch on their top to isolate control/function site issues easily. You replace these with the original relay and you can manually switch on/off any circuits. I hope this helps.
I wish you were in Florida having issues with my DME not communicating with my BMW. Going to change a relay, but I’m sure you’d find it with your methodology.
I've did one few weeks ago on one A6 4F. That is Main terminal 30 Relay. Someone messed up with ECU and didnt thight that ECU box cover. With this one is the same because of that fat red aftermarket cable for Who knows what. But good job. 🎉😂
My daughter bought a car from a "mechanic" who work at a GM dealer. You should have seen the half ass stuff this kid did to this car with the after market sound system. He ran big cables through the door weather striping causing the inside of the car to fill with water. he wrapped the main power cable counter clockwise around the battery terminal, instead of using an eyelet connector.
The audio is good. And also tge video quality is good
Cant you print the schematic out? Are there missing fuses/relays? How much time to diagnose a 2012?
So your repairing other mechanics mistakes?
QUICK-WITTED, Royalty Auto Service
Brilliant video outstanding films 🎥,thank you 📷 man
👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21:47PM Good Evening
Would love to see a repair on pulling out the fuse box
Got your steps in on this one 😂
I have a 2016 Audi A4 Quatro that uses 1 quart of oil every 200 miles. While driving behind the A4, it will puff white smoke when taking off from a stop light and then no more smoke. The PCV was changed; no help. I don't think it's rings since it doesn't smoke all the time. Would I be correct to assume it's the valve guide seals? I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I have no experience in this area. Thoughts? Is this something I could do myself or ????
First thing move the car so it is comfortable to move around?
Squeezing in and out of the car was driving me nuts! I was yelling at my phone...MOVE THE CAR!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
That's a very common problem area on Audi's of that style. The way they had that ran didn't help but believe me it's just a matter of time before they have issues there. N let us see the codes next time and start the car to make sure it's good. So we can see.
Where did you get the flashlight holder?
Nice work. I had one with a puddle in the box. Green crusties lmao
Who made the relay breakout box?
Great job
VAG cars keep those relays,fuses and ECU under the plastic connected to the windshield it’s crucial to keep that area clean as much as possible….why? So there are two drainage holes for water when does get clogged with debris guess what happens all those electrical components get damaged and will not for sure be cheap and easy fix don’t ask me how I know…
I have seen this also on Audis when drain holes in the plenum get plugged and the plenum fills w/water.
@@johnmac9055 also it’s need to check drainage on sunroof to I mean this part of maintenance every 20k should be checked and cleaned but we know who this goes
Good vid. I could tell from the way you were laughing during the intro . it would be interesting. Really laughed about the too many tools. It's not the number, it's keeping track of the stuff you have. See George Carlin.
Please sell those shirts. No UA-cam auto gurus sell shirts with pockets, and your shirts are darn good looking!
That weird tank and pump in the truck are likely for an aftermarket methanol injection system.
Moral of the story:
Mod your car, expect problems.
I've seen plenty of post-mod unintended (unpleasant) consequences. Many-many are just shockingly poor workmanship, poor placement, missed brackets, screws, connections.
90% of the time, with vehicles or things around the house, the problems are caused by the person working on something prior to me being called. First thing I always ask, "Was anyone working on this before me and if so, what did you pay them to do?".
Well done! Nice find!
Incredible work!
Good diagnosis. Thx
I know this is an older video but I think it's funny that even a super star "joking" has those moments where you make little mistakes.
I'm curious, where do you Even start with how much to charge for testing? Hours?
I know ur give away, some lucky viewer gets car dialed, n repaired 1000. Limit to honor 100000, clients lol love ya guys, if I get to see my grand daughter in FL pan handle wld love to stop by to do a diag with you sherwood.
I ran into the same problem on an Audi. I found 2 different numbering system for the relays. There is another diagram that shows relay B as 2 relays.
I’m farther into the video. I absolutely love my UActivate 35:53
great stuff guys
LMAO when he was looking for his relay tester that he just got and could not find---that's me everyday in my shop with everything lol
Came over from South Main Auto.
exselente trabajo master mui bueno
Around 20min in, it'd sure help if you learn to read wiring diagrams and how the tools work (when you selected the wire it highlighted that all of those wires are fed from the relay)
Exellent and thanks for sharing.
Great stuff! Be easier if you had a laptop to set on a cart and wheel it out to the car. Have it right in front of you.
Awesome can’t wait for the escope give away 😂 great job guys
Hahaha, I wish!!
@@theroyaltyautoservice 😂😂 we gotta get Bernie and Jeff on this ha
@theroyaltyautoservice Hi. My A4 battery died, tried to jump start it nothing happened. Got a new battery also getting random communication codes. Car cranks but no start. Ref counter doesn't move. Please help
Y’all are awesome
Your past my skill level. Visual inspection of wiring. Contact cleaner and frayed wires, or connectors. How do you get at the parts?
Very carefully. 😬😃
EricO said to look in on you two, so here I am...
We hope you like our content. 👍
Be careful with the euro cars and those relay bypass tools sometime bmw, audi/vw will use a relay that has the same pin layout but the internal wiring is different from a standar relay.
The set up in the trunk looks like a methanol injection kit. Basically a water spray/mist to cool down forced air in intake.
Did you guys replace the panel or use a remote relay
Good find. Imo mods really destroy a car and cause reliability to go way down. Keep it factory i say. I’m guessing this was a teenager’s car.
We have a naval base right down the road, so this does happen from time to time with a lot of younger military guys. Thanks for watching!
I respectfully disagree with this as a blanket statement, poorly installed or cheaply made parts can make a car less reliable sure. People will always customize their vehicles, and have every right to do so, as long as it does not disable or delete any emissions equipment and have not made the vehicle dangerous in anyway to drive on public roads.
For a dedicated track car or a display only vehicle you’re only then they are only restricted in modification by the class they want to run in.
Back to modifications and leaving a a car factory, I don’t know your background or the vehicles you like to drive or if you even care what you drive. OEM’s need to build and install calibrations into the their vehicles ECU that can be used in all different climates and altitudes be it a North American vehicle or a global market vehicle.
Often times they just don’t get it right and in many cases the vehicle reliability, performance, and drivability suffers for it. I’ve yet to see a vehicle (even some exotics) who’s drivability couldn’t greatly improved upon with a little simple smoothing out the some of the critical maps in the ECU.
Then you get into the VVTI, VCT, VTEC, Mivec, etc systems or the Electronic Throttle Body maps and simple safe adjustments to these can make a car a lot more responsive and a safer car is one that you can give you confidence when accelerating and braking
This goes into parts added to you vehicle, which in the case of many of the newer vehicles on the market are now coming with turbocharging from the factory, you want to discuss reliability and consistency. Take a new GDI with a turbo for instance, problem one they are gasoline engines that are direct injected. Fuel injects directly into the combustion chamber not into the intake manifold through the intake manifold. Unless you have a walnut blaster machine to clean these valves or are pulling the manifold in some sort of maintenance interval, you can damage that engine, funny how none of the manufacturers have this listed in their maintenance specs, speaking GDI especially ones with turbochargers, all GDI vehicles come with the risk of a phenomenon called LSPI, which is another engine destroyer, 3 of the best possible things you can rod to prevent are
- Never lug your engine along meaning load at low RPM,
-Install a Air Oil Separator or well designed set of OIL Catch Cans to stop all that crap getting run back through your engine increasing potential for not only LSPI but carbon build up a
So
-Change your oil often, very often, no more then 3k often, which your manufacturer tells you 6, 8, 10k. You’ll be lucky if your car makes it to 100k. For a GDI engine you’re safest to choose a proper 100% Synthetic oil of the Group IV, V variety that’s been tested extensively and has passed GM’s LSPI testing guidelines. Which are oils that you’re not buying from, your local Walmart that say Full Synthetic. Full Synthetic is NOT 100% synthetic oil.
-Lastly you can help to combat against LSPI with some good ECU mapping,
BTW im 44 and one of my modified vehicles is over 20yrs old, has never left me stranded, and is making 2.5X the factory claimed HP and TQ figures to the tire, and still has the 100% factory drivetrain and block, con rods, and pistons. clutch and cylinder head are upgraded with better then factory components as well as is every suspension, fueling, amd ignition component in the vehicle.
Key is to maintain your vehicle and it will last for you. Unless it’s a Kia, don’t buy a new Kia opening the door has been known to explode the engine
as long as you purchase good parts and don’t do stupid modifications, i believe your statement isn’t necessarily correct. some tasteful mods can improve cars. there are a few mods on these vehicles that actually improve them.
I’m with you on leave it alone,if the factory thought those mods would make the car perform better they would’ve done it themselves but what do I know I’m only a Toyota,Chrysler,Nissan and BMW factory trained master mechanic of 40 years and counting.
You think it was reliable before the mods? You don’t know used Audis at all.
Tremendous video / coaching !
So what was the fix?
NICE JOB
Erik's green crusties !
Did it start?
Yep
This was a Job for Dan Sullivans "Load Pro".
so my audi 2009 a4 avant was running and driving just fine and it wont start nomore unless u wait a while. i got it towed to audi and they said sum about the sunroof leaking but im confused it randomly ran and drove when i got it back to post btw my car is stock original parts
and my car cranks still
I subscribed. 100k
Automotive Scanner. That be a nice giveaway
That’s the most likely giveaway item for sure! 👍
Yeah that’s right. Seriously cool !! 🎉
I will like to buy the same borescope can you put a link please
www.oasisscientific.com/store/p646/iPhone-iPad-Articulation-Borescope-5.5mm-Diameter.html
They send you an engraved plaque when you hit certain subscriber amounts.
Scanner Danner did a YT video 6 years ago (dated Jan 20, 2018, titled "No Start Testing Basics - Spark, Injector Pulse and Fuel Pressure (Hyundai Santa Fe, ua-cam.com/video/sq0HLREinNU/v-deo.html )" in which he demonstrates the use of the older version of the AES Wave uActivate relay test tool. At 30 minutes to 40 minutes into SD's vid (as well as a laughable example of "expectation bias" at 36 min & 35 seconds in), and again from 49 minutes to the end, is far and away the clearest, most concise explanation of the use of the AES Wave uActivate I have seen ANYWHERE on YT or elsewhere on the internet. Both with and without the use of a scope and amp clamp. AES should stitch these two segments together just to show the tools versatility, and with proper knowledge to back its use up, also add speed to the diagnostic process. I love mine, and am shocked by many who bought it (incl the older version) and whom have never used it, or are maddingly, blindly unaware of its capabilities. Of course, one must have a full and clear understanding of automotive electrical theory to put it to its best use, and also not misuse it, or you could seriously damage components (similar to weaponizing a Power Probe if you don't know what you are doing) by sticking other tools into the banana jacks (doubling as test ports), like for example a Power Probe or test light into the wrong ports. Sure, if you've been around for awhile you probably are already doing the same thing with a test light and a fused jumper, like a lot have for years. But for someone who hasn't, and is also trying to speed up the diagnostic process, this works very well. In Sherwood's case here it turns out the real issue was the relay / fuse box connections underneath, but the uActivate (or a fused jumper wire and test light) can help to prove or eliminate other causes.
Also, please get rid of that 190 or earlier Relay Buddy & update to the newer version. They often give false readings, as they do not load the relay, and drove/drive a lot of people crazy chasing their tails when the tester shows a relay "passes" as good. The newer version, the 194 (or 195 kit) actually put in a small load and are much more reliable. I literally threw my old 190 in the garbage when I got the 195 kit.
Same goes for the newest Lisle mechanic's stethoscopes (the ones with the bellows in the middle). They absolutely blow away the sound clarity vs the older versions. Again, tossed my old Lisle's ears in the trash after getting both versions of the newest stetho.
Grasias
You guys should have surface pro tablets with those programs so there is no need to go back and forth to the computer
Did this guy google "show me all the wanker mods i can fit to my Audi" and then went to town on it...
you said slammed i say ruined
I love my U activate
That dog is awesome
Title please
That’s strange. It is showing up for us. Let us know if it’s still not there for you.
You are a super sleuth 🕵️♀️
so silly how bmw and audi (and im sure others) put computers/electrons under the cowl...
Got meth in the trunk😅