I used to work as an Auto Tech. We ran around 150 psi on our air lines. That was enough to Whip the Hoses when they broke. And we were told that the pressure would induce an Air Bubble into your Bloodstream. Causing a Clot.
Idea - get an old hose, get salt water inside and leave it for a few months then cut it open to see what it's like? If you have plenty of spares you could do it with another at the same time but try flushing it then cut that one at the same time for a comparison.
Salt Water: Service the regulator! Especially if the regulator is not going to be used for a month or more. Our regulators are chrome plated brass. It is surprising how quickly salt will damage the chrome. When using the older yolk / clamp style regulators. I use the conical dust caps that have an o-ring. In 45+ years of diving, no problem dunking underwater to clean. Just make sure to check the condition of the o-ring every time. And replace that o-ring regularly. Many times I have seen that type of cap where the o-ring has fallen out. And don't depress the purge buttons on the second stages. This is just my experience. If in doubt have the regulator serviced.
Yoga is good to work on your breathing, strength and flexibility. I tend to work on kettle bell swings, rowing and flutter kicks as well. Exercises that work your legs, back and shoulders are generally good for scuba diving.
All places I have been diving dunk the whole regulator in the rinse tank to rinse it off .. I will no longer do that ! I can hose it off work fresh water at home . Thank you for the advise
#askmark could you do a video on buying used gear, drysuits, regs/octos, etc. I've had luck wtih 1st/2nd stage regs but am looking at drysuits and am finding seemingly decent ones but several are 8 plus years old.
Yeah, my first drysuit was 2nd hand. Pay most attention to the seals and high wear areas like the crotch and boots. Valves are pretty tough, just make sure they're not caked in talc and that the inflator is the right fitting for any hoses you have. I'd probably leak test it before diving it. And dive it somewhere safe for the 1st dive just to be sure that the seals and zipper are air tight.
Taking off the hoses and running air through it is great advice. I wouldn't open the valve on the tank completely though, that would quickly freeze your first stage.
Mark, is it safe just holding our thumb over the fist stage and giving it a rinse as you explained in this video? Because i have mk25 which is not environmentally sealed so just realized that water can get into first stage from holes on sides. And i never do pressurizing after cleaning since i dont have a tank. Should I be worried?
Yes, holding your thumb over the inlet is all you need for the MK25. If water gets into those side holes it's fine, that's a separate chamber to where the air flows.
Hello Mark. I am in the process of getting my PADI OW Certification. Did the Bookwork. Had the Pool Session back on May 20 and 21 this year. Right now I am in a Problem. The location where my shop uses for the Checkout Dives is currently Closed for construction. No date is given for reopening. How long can I wait until I have to retake part 1 again? Will I be able to use my Training as Credit towards another Organization id needed? I was told that in September Diving Season is Over by my shop. I'm not able to Travel too far at the moment. Sold my Harley back in April to be able to afford the Class. I don't know what to do??
PADI Elearning is valid for one year. I don’t see a restriction on the skill components but based on other PADI courses I would guess they are also valid for a year, so you have some time. Don’t rush training. Learn to master the skills, you’ll never know when they could save your life.
#askmark I dive twin cylinders (2*7L) with DIR regulator setup and have a problem with my octo hose. It’s a 60cm hose with a 110 degree joint on the second stage. I tried different hose routing for the octo (behind long hose, under and over inflator hose, under inflator) and it still gives me problems. Namely, when I have to breathe on octo, I either cannot turn my head to the left because the hose is not long enough, or it feels like it gets stuck on the right-shoulder hoses preventing me from having normal head movement. I also tried with a 65 and 70cm long octo hose but that one was too long and was on top of the right shoulder D-ring. Any advice on how to fix my octo hose problem?
My AAS hose routes over everything but the long hose. My first thought are to lengthen the hose, the 65cm hose should give you just enough slack but, if that's too long it could be routing because of the 1st stage design. If it's a standard 4LP 1st stage and parallel to the manifold with all hoses pointing downward then if you angle the 1st stage you may be able to route the hose better.
#askmark Hi Mark. Given the latest news about Aqualung and Apeks, would you still recommend buying regulators from them? I was looking to invest in my own set and I had my eyes on a XTX50 with a DST first stage from Apeks, but now I'm reluctant to pull the trigger. Is there any other mid-range regulator set you'd recommend instead? Cheers! and thanks for the videos!
It has to be a part of the decision making process. A regulator is a long-term investment and some spare parts are already hard to get hold of. Hopefully that will all change under new leadership Some safe brands I'd recommend would be Scubapro, Mares, Atomic and the newer Tecline. We're testing out some of their regs this season. Scubapro has their G260 which is in the same price range as the XTX50. When I was choosing regs years ago it was between the XTX50 and the G260. Mares are always a strong choice, my first regs were Abyss. The modern equivalent would probably be the Atlas. Atomic are also a good choice. They can be more expensive at first but, they usually have longer service intervals that bring the lifetime costs down
This brings up a great question. #askmark can I submerge a regulator that has an auto closure device like my aqualung legend elite without worrying about water getting inside?
I would act as if the ACD was not there. ACD is there to " _protect the first stage internal parts from contamination and corrosive water_ " which would suggest yes. However, I would still pressurise the regulators for washing or use my thumb to add an extra level of safety than rely purely on the ACD alone. That way you have twice the protection at little extra effort. But yes, that is what the ACD is designed to prevent.
#AskMark. Hi mark. I have been watching you videos for a while now. They have been extremely helpful. I would really like you to do a in-depth review of the Crest cr-5 dive computer. I really would like to understand the working and who it's for or not for. Also is it worth it. It's apparently £620 here in the Uk
I used to work as an Auto Tech. We ran around 150 psi on our air lines. That was enough to Whip the Hoses when they broke. And we were told that the pressure would induce an Air Bubble into your Bloodstream. Causing a Clot.
Thanx, did not now about the problems or dangers at all. This vid made me more concious about how to treat the equipment at the dive shop on holiday.
Yeah, regs are best submerged only when they're pressurised. Water on the inside can do a surprising amount of damage
Idea - get an old hose, get salt water inside and leave it for a few months then cut it open to see what it's like? If you have plenty of spares you could do it with another at the same time but try flushing it then cut that one at the same time for a comparison.
Salt Water: Service the regulator! Especially if the regulator is not going to be used for a month or more. Our regulators are chrome plated brass. It is surprising how quickly salt will damage the chrome.
When using the older yolk / clamp style regulators. I use the conical dust caps that have an o-ring. In 45+ years of diving, no problem dunking underwater to clean. Just make sure to check the condition of the o-ring every time. And replace that o-ring regularly. Many times I have seen that type of cap where the o-ring has fallen out. And don't depress the purge buttons on the second stages.
This is just my experience. If in doubt have the regulator serviced.
#askmark whats your suggestion for scuba related or general exercise to improve air consumption?
Yoga is good to work on your breathing, strength and flexibility. I tend to work on kettle bell swings, rowing and flutter kicks as well. Exercises that work your legs, back and shoulders are generally good for scuba diving.
All places I have been diving dunk the whole regulator in the rinse tank to rinse it off .. I will no longer do that ! I can hose it off work fresh water at home . Thank you for the advise
#askmark could you do a video on buying used gear, drysuits, regs/octos, etc. I've had luck wtih 1st/2nd stage regs but am looking at drysuits and am finding seemingly decent ones but several are 8 plus years old.
Yeah, my first drysuit was 2nd hand. Pay most attention to the seals and high wear areas like the crotch and boots. Valves are pretty tough, just make sure they're not caked in talc and that the inflator is the right fitting for any hoses you have.
I'd probably leak test it before diving it. And dive it somewhere safe for the 1st dive just to be sure that the seals and zipper are air tight.
Taking off the hoses and running air through it is great advice. I wouldn't open the valve on the tank completely though, that would quickly freeze your first stage.
Mark, is it safe just holding our thumb over the fist stage and giving it a rinse as you explained in this video? Because i have mk25 which is not environmentally sealed so just realized that water can get into first stage from holes on sides. And i never do pressurizing after cleaning since i dont have a tank. Should I be worried?
Yes, holding your thumb over the inlet is all you need for the MK25. If water gets into those side holes it's fine, that's a separate chamber to where the air flows.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine so relieved 😮💨 thank you
Hello Mark. I am in the process of getting my PADI OW Certification. Did the Bookwork. Had the Pool Session back on May 20 and 21 this year. Right now I am in a Problem. The location where my shop uses for the Checkout Dives is currently Closed for construction. No date is given for reopening. How long can I wait until I have to retake part 1 again? Will I be able to use my Training as Credit towards another Organization id needed? I was told that in September Diving Season is Over by my shop. I'm not able to Travel too far at the moment. Sold my Harley back in April to be able to afford the Class. I don't know what to do??
PADI Elearning is valid for one year. I don’t see a restriction on the skill components but based on other PADI courses I would guess they are also valid for a year, so you have some time. Don’t rush training. Learn to master the skills, you’ll never know when they could save your life.
@@talbotmcinnis All I have is the 2 Day pool session. Lake Hydra is Closed until who knows?
#askmark I dive twin cylinders (2*7L) with DIR regulator setup and have a problem with my octo hose. It’s a 60cm hose with a 110 degree joint on the second stage. I tried different hose routing for the octo (behind long hose, under and over inflator hose, under inflator) and it still gives me problems. Namely, when I have to breathe on octo, I either cannot turn my head to the left because the hose is not long enough, or it feels like it gets stuck on the right-shoulder hoses preventing me from having normal head movement. I also tried with a 65 and 70cm long octo hose but that one was too long and was on top of the right shoulder D-ring.
Any advice on how to fix my octo hose problem?
My AAS hose routes over everything but the long hose. My first thought are to lengthen the hose, the 65cm hose should give you just enough slack but, if that's too long it could be routing because of the 1st stage design. If it's a standard 4LP 1st stage and parallel to the manifold with all hoses pointing downward then if you angle the 1st stage you may be able to route the hose better.
#askmark Hi Mark. Given the latest news about Aqualung and Apeks, would you still recommend buying regulators from them? I was looking to invest in my own set and I had my eyes on a XTX50 with a DST first stage from Apeks, but now I'm reluctant to pull the trigger. Is there any other mid-range regulator set you'd recommend instead? Cheers! and thanks for the videos!
It has to be a part of the decision making process. A regulator is a long-term investment and some spare parts are already hard to get hold of. Hopefully that will all change under new leadership
Some safe brands I'd recommend would be Scubapro, Mares, Atomic and the newer Tecline. We're testing out some of their regs this season.
Scubapro has their G260 which is in the same price range as the XTX50. When I was choosing regs years ago it was between the XTX50 and the G260.
Mares are always a strong choice, my first regs were Abyss. The modern equivalent would probably be the Atlas.
Atomic are also a good choice. They can be more expensive at first but, they usually have longer service intervals that bring the lifetime costs down
What's the latest news?
This brings up a great question. #askmark can I submerge a regulator that has an auto closure device like my aqualung legend elite without worrying about water getting inside?
I would act as if the ACD was not there. ACD is there to " _protect the first stage internal parts from contamination and corrosive water_ " which would suggest yes. However, I would still pressurise the regulators for washing or use my thumb to add an extra level of safety than rely purely on the ACD alone. That way you have twice the protection at little extra effort.
But yes, that is what the ACD is designed to prevent.
#AskMark. Hi mark. I have been watching you videos for a while now. They have been extremely helpful. I would really like you to do a in-depth review of the Crest cr-5 dive computer. I really would like to understand the working and who it's for or not for. Also is it worth it. It's apparently £620 here in the Uk
Sure, I think we have a sample unit here at the magazine on test. If I can get my hands on it I'll let you know.