I enjoyed this lad, anything "hand planes" is always good 🤙 I tend to stay away from super hard irons, most of my planes are old Records, a quick lick on the stones and I'm back to work..... that powdered metal stuff takes an age to sharpen. Your rebate planes/dado planes are called shoulder planes. A rebate plane or a dado plane is always bevel down, they create the rebate or dado (medium to rank cuts) a rebate plane has no nicker/spur and is used with the grain, a fillister plane has a single nicker/spur on the inside and has a skewed iron for making rebates across the grain, a dado plane has nickers/spurs on both sides and is also skewed for workin across the grain. A shoulder plane is always bevel up and is used to refine joinery (light cuts) it was designed to trim the shoulders of tenons if you saw away from your line. They're bevel up because that's better for end grain and a shoulder is an end grain cut 😁 I use all hand tools, so I'd use a rebate plane to sink the rebate, and a shoulder plane comes along to true it up; often it's best to stop short of your line with a rebate plane, it's easy to cut an uneven floor or to slightly slope it, so the shoulder plane does a good job of fixing that and bringing the rebate to your line. I always use a chisel to fix a shoulder, I find the shoulder plane awkward to use for that job, and I usually want a slight undercut on a shoulder so it sits tight. Theres a jig for the router iron, it's basically a strip of aluminium bar with a notch cut in one end and a hole, the cutting end of the iron screws into the hole and the aluminium bar can be held in a honing guide. If you have a strip of bar stock, any kind of metal will do, it would be easy to make one..... but they are only about a fiver to buy I think; I'm cheap so I'd be inclined to make one 🤷♂️😂 the router plane is a lot older than the 'lectric one, the old wooden ones were known as a "hags tooth", so your comment about it bein like a tooth is spot on 🤙🤣 the spokeshaves, its easier to learn how to use the flat one, the round one takes more control to use, so if ya fancy it, practice with the flat one first.... but it has to be sharp. Think of it like a smoothing plane for curves; you're not gonna be takin heavy cuts with it. The 151 version like you have with the depth adjustments are WAY easier to use than the other kind with no adjustment. Set it like you would a smoother, so its taking no cut, then slowly advance the iron til it takes a light even cut on both sides, if its cutting on one side and not the other set the other side deeper; but this can cant the iron an make the original side that was cutting fine need to be adjusted slightly again. Make sure to always advance the iron, if the screws ain't backing up the iron it can slip backwards. If you have to retract the iron, once the lever cap is tight again, tighten the screws to be tight in their slot and pushing on the iron. I find it easier to pull than push, but itll work both ways, always cut "downhill", sometimes it's hard to see the grain, but a shave will protest straight away if its goin the wrong way so it's easy to know when it wants to go the other way. I will say a newer shave works better than the old ones, and I reckon its because of the thicker iron. I made a jig to hold these in a honing guide, a strip of wood (think mine was about 20mm thick and about 50mm wide) cut a kerf or 2 in the end grain of the block, wide enough so the spokeshave iron jams into it, figure out the projection for your honing guide to get the angle you want, and dado in a little strip on the underside of the block in the right place so it always sits against the front of your guide. The old Eclipse 36 style guide is a great jig, itll sharpen everything you have...... even cambered irons like your scrub. The wheel on that style jig is narrow for that reason, it can be rocked on the wheel for curved irons. My foreplane has about a 250mm radius and that style jig handles it no bother 🤙
I forgot to say; a spokeshave is bevel down....... the first ever time I tried to use one the iron was in bevel up, and I thought that was the way it was used. That didnt go very well for me 😂🤣 metal spokeshave is always bevel down, a wooden one is nearly always bevel up.
@@whittysworkshop982 Ive pinned this comment as theres loads of useful info here that is very helpful! I'll be re-reading this a few times, Id like to learn the spokeshaves as I can see their advantage just never got round to it, gonna need better irons than whats currently in them!
@@HewAndAwe Probably the first time one of my ramblings has been considered as good info 😂 Ray Iles make replacement irons for those shaves, English made then too; if that matters to you 😁 Ray Iles "old tool store" I think it's called, if not the sister company of Ashley Iles might have them, and I'm positive Mathew at Workshop Heaven sells them too 🤙
six minutes; REAL similar to my approach. I got into Japanese handplanes because of the extreme simplicity. I DON'T scoop out the sole the way Nihon no Shokunin (Japanese craftsmen) do. I don't think that there's enough of a benefit - I believe James Krenov would agree with me as well. A quote that hit me like a ton of bricks comes from Tim Ferris, the really smart bald, white guy on youtube - well, there's a few, but Tim is a genius; anyway, he said, "perfection isn't when you have everything you want - it's when you get rid of everything that you don't need." ...still hits hard...
@@HewAndAwe Japanese handplanes are typically 90% "complete" (in their eyes) from the maker. The end-user/craftsman will then fettle with it until he's satisfied with the feel and performance. One of these adjustments is to scoop out the "toe" and "heel" of the handplane sole EVER SO SLIGHTLY. Similar to the way they scoop out the back of their chisels and plane irons. The thought behind it is similar to the cast iron handplanes with those corrugated soles. My experience is that it's complete bullshit and unnecessary. HOWEVER, a properly fettled Japanese handplane is an absolute DREAM to use! ...just skip the scoop. I think the same is true for Japanese chisels - a DREAM to use but skip the scoop. Western chisels and mallets (in my opinion) are cartoonishly oversized and cumbersome to use compared to a properly sized Japanese chisel and gennou hammer.
@zenkenshokunin thanks for that dude, learn something new every day 🤗 as much as I admire jap work I feel it’s way over engineered and unnecessary, it’s beautiful don’t get me wrong…
I'm in the same boat! I started building my pmv11 collection few years back and my absolute favorite is the scrub plane, I use it to groove the edges on 8/4 timber before joining to knockdown the center a tad so the outer edges are always touching, I also use it to pre groove edges before squaring, it makes it so much easier to run the 5 and a half when you're just knocking down peaks. After waiting 2 years of back orders I finally received my full set of pmv11 bench and butt chisels... worth every penny. Thanks for the videos, love em!
@@HewAndAwe they came perfect from the factory, only one out of 14 gave me a hard time, I use atoma 400 diamond plate and then hit the Shaptons, 1000, 2000, 8000 and 12000 before honing, they hold their edge incredibly well and touch ups take seconds, best chisels I've ever used, I can get my lie nielsen to sharpness easier but it doesn't hold an edge like the pmv11s do... check out the atoma 400 plate it really is a night and day difference from the trend,dmt and all the other plain diamond plates.
Pallet wood that has been Heat Treated (for bugs and grubs and other nasties) is effectively Kiln Dried - but in a nasty ( to the wood) way .... but it is taken up to 150 degrees F and held for a period of time ( after construction I believe) - if you leave it in the shop for a bit it will EQ down to match the shop - I recently glued up a bunch to make leg, rail, stile blanks for shop bench, milled them down a bout ... oh.... 3 months ago now(?) they are still bang on where they came off the bench after the No 7. tidied them up. Love your choice and order of the planes - with the Block Plane you might futz about until you find the one that fits you well - I don't have any of the Veritas kit so I can't say to that, but each hand is different and the one that fits and is comfy is the one that will work best.
My favourite plane is my Veritas DX60 low angle block - comes out in all projects for smoothing, planing end grain, shooting board. It's always on the bench. My other go-to planes are the Vertias bevel down jack plane which finishes the work of my Luban bevel up low angle Jack (absolute workhorse). Veritas bullnose is brilliant for rebates and shoulders but the front bit can be annoying. Next plane will be the router - only so much you can do with the small router plane and chisels. Love the PMV11 planes - just no nonsense set-up and sweet to use and leave an a-class finish. They are pricey here in Australia and during COVID-19 became like hen's teeth.
thanks for this! i posted on a reddit about how i prefer the use of low angle planes and how i can use them, just got thrown back. I have a Quangsheng no62 and love it. Tried restoring some Stanleys and the geometry of the frog, chip breaker and bevel angle just did me in. Im a huge Veritas fan. Thanks again.
Veritas has a jig to sharpen the router plane blades that's supposed to come with it. They sell it for 5 bucks. I have 2 old routers and I hate sharpening them
Yeah I agree, I looked at the next level up and thought there’s really little in it bar they’re more expensive, so Vertas won the day for me. Hope you had a lovely Christmas! 🍻😊🍻
oh matey, love the cut of your jib there, and agree with 99.9 of all you said there, 'cept I love my spoke shave, great for many things,and my go to is defo my block plane, fab vid thanks for posting. Keep 'em coming,have a good week.Cheers bud
Thanks Paul, only cause like I said I dont know how to use them I havent sat down to find out how to use them, I did buy them cause I can their value in the workshop mind. not sure on the particular ones I have, the blade is like tin foil!
Great review and informative. I was getting ready to restore a bunch of old Record planes but after this I think I'll just buy Veritas low angle planes.
Iv got a few Veritas and Lie Neilsen planes and chisels and there defenetly great bits of kit but they don't come close the early 1900s quality of Spiers , Mathieson , Clifton , Norris or Holland planes in my humble opinion but ever man is different and theres a plane for every man . Pointless Joiner fact # 1. In Scotland a no78 rebate plane is called a Skewed Geelum Great video Ben. Keep rubbing that wood
Well seems like getting the low angle Block and Jack I've started well. No idea what steel is in them though. (Googles - M2 High Speed Steel (HSS) apparently, also thicker than normal). Dropped the bloody block plane today, and nearly cried. Little divot in the corner and blade chipped, needs a full regrind :(
Oh-nooooo!!!! I so feel your pain!!! I'm guessing concrete floor, I know its a bit late but when I had a concrete workshop I got a large bit of carpet from a firm that were throwing it out and put it where I do the hand work in my workshop, especially chisels they often end up on the floor. Something else if you ever get a different workshop that has a wooden floor dont paint it, it goes like an ice rink with wood chips down!
@@HewAndAwe It's the garage and it gets wet when the car parks after rain so no carpet for me. I do have a rubber mat under the workbench (helps stop it from moving) and it is soft-ish. Think I'll get another for in FRONT of the bench too ;)
Another great video, I bought myself a couple of second hand planes for restoration, but not sure if i've got the patience or the spare time at the moment, so eying up an allrounder to get me started! Cheers
Hey buddy! Hope youre well mate! I bought two old planes with a restoration in mind, and I can safely say "fuck that! life is to short!" The hours involved translated into money buy you new with out the work! Theres other versions of the low angle, its just a case of how many "updated" bits can you live with out...
If I remember rightly it was you who asked for the vid - did I miss anything out that you might want to know? Not that I know much but I always wonder did I get the vid right...
@@HewAndAwe Yes it was me and thanks for putting it together another great vid. I don’t you think you missed anything at least as far as I am concerned.
Hi Ben, enjoyed listening you talk on hand planes. Great see your collection and to hear all the pros and cons and what they're all used for. Unfortunately I'm at the other end of the spectrum avoiding hand work and the slower pace of achieving that goal. Tony
Hi Ben I have a question please. What bench vise would you recommend? The one you're using looks fine. I don't need a moxon vise or anything fancy like that. Just one for planing end grain and cutting joints. Many thanks.
Oh mate thats easy, a carpenters vise! One with a bench dog is vital, the quick release not so much but nice to have. Buy the best you can afford, with the biggest reach, yeah you'll use it once a blue moon but you will be well grateful you had the option! Honestly all the other stuff on the market is just peeps taking something simple and re-inventing it badly! Not to mention tear you a new arse hole in ££££. Seat the rear jaw into the bench sop the rear jaw becomes as big as the whole lengh of the bench! You could go really old school and go with the hook and a hold down... but its not as good as a carpenters vise.
@@HewAndAwe Thanks Ben! I was aiming for the carpenters vise with a dog on the front and likely quick release too. There's one from Axminster which is about a ton so that will do. Second hand vises are probably worn out. Thanks again.
Another great vid Ben. I've been growing my collection of Veritas planes as well; pretty much the same order you suggested here. I have the router plane and it came with a sharpening jig to attach the blade to. You can pick it up at axminster for under a fiver. It can then be sharpened using the mk2 honing guide. Shoulder plane is next on my list 🤤 For content ideas: I have two old stump off cuts from a silver birch. Stuck for ideas on what to do. Epoxy filled side table, join together for coffee table, bit big for wall clock (I watched you vid for that one). If you have some stump offcuts I'd be interested what creative ideas you come up with. Might be suitable content.
Thank you Graham! Someone else said the same, and said it came with the plane, but I havent been to the worksop for a while to look. I take it youre talking of cookie style cuts of birch? I made a clock out of a cookie from birch, think I have a vid of that here on youtube, I polished the hell out of to get it to look that nice! But honestly with out seeing what you have its tough to say, I often have wood in the shop and can spend years looking at it before I have that moment "THATS WHAT I SHOULD MAKE OUT OF IT!" Feel free so shoot me some pics...
I don't get our Yankee planes either. Had a friend that used and mastered them. Had a stroke before he taught me the tricks. Kiln dried black walnut has inferior color to air dried. That's all I know about that. Will be keeping a close eye on estate sales for Veritas. I'm a poor Yank.
Good luck mate, the prices are just mental - I haven't bought a tool for ages Im not paying the stupid money being asked they're not of that value in the first place!
Fuck you've got some serious kit. Really appreciate your thoughts on hand planes, I have alot of really old timber planes and old Stanley and Mem Pacific's. The only new plane that I have is a cheap Stanley block plane the same as yours. I really like it for what it is, it's just a handy little thing to have on hand. I am going to be buying new planes over the next year unless Stihl decide to drop a new range topper chainsaw on the market again (the 500i set me back 2 years on tool purchasing)
Its a cluster fuck at the mo, I mean wtf £5 for a lump of Lurpak last month, near a 100k for the new Golf if youre in AU - banks love this, pays their depts, I hate this, the beer I like £3.75 a bottle WTF! Good time to sell, well no cause no one can afford to buy... Its not a fun right now eh... 😕
In your last last video you gave us a Very Specific Anatomical Protuberance to practice our grip for using a Cross-Cut-Saw. What would you recommend for practicing a Hand-Plane grip?? Also, practice for a Japanese Pull-Saw ....
Just bought a vintage (1950s rosewood handles) Stanley 4.5 boxed in total mint condition. As new condition, absolute bargain on eBay. Look like it just left the shop. Have a Stanley block plane which I have fettled but it is still shit. Looking for a jack plane and rabbet plane to complete the collection (for now)
Nice find Rob! I just like an easier life when it come to tools to feel the old school planes need to much thinking in a way, not explainig myself well.. Put it this way I started out with such crap tools, I'll never forget the mitre saw, I kid you not every cut I had to re-set the fence, that beat me down to all I want from a tool now is can rely on on it and spend very little time making it just work, its not tool snobbery...
@@HewAndAwe Absolutely, been there done that. I have an unorthodox entry into carpentry as I worked in pharmaceutical industry for twenty odd years then got ill so I get tired quickly. Can only work when I am well. So now do odd carpentry maintenance work for people but building up to kitchens and bespoke built in stuff. Just whatever pays. Totally agree to buy the best tool you can afford. I am rarely disappointed when I buy the pukka item, frequently disappointed when I go cheap. Many thanks for the reply. Working though your videos.
Today's handplane price's are nowt more than disgusting, the money these companies must be making, at least Dick Turpin used a mask 😷 when robbing you.
Haha yeah I looked last night and my jaw hit the floor, I didn’t pay anything like that back in the day, I bet I could sell them second hand for more than I payed for new 😬
@@HewAndAwe I know exactly what you mean I've bought countless tools in pat 3yrs and when I've checked on todays prices I could sell the lot and almost double my money back!!!
Tell me about it, I looked last night... it seems everything I own could be sold for the same as what thye cost new if not more in some cases like my iMac... The world has gone nuts!
I'm going to stop watching your video's.... 😀 a bit like the Domino one... wish I had seen this first... Just getting into hand planes, as wanted the finishing capability I cannot get with the power tools. Also recently needed one to fix something that I cocked up.... went for Old Stanley ones... Block plane, No.5 and a No. 7 but wish I'd researched more about the low angel.... to be honest didn't really understand why you go low angel v normal but agree the set on the normal ones are a challenge.. great video, learnt a lot... keep them coming...
I saw the cost of them so I spent a lot of hours researching, I do with everything I buy, I only want to buy once, and cry once - oddly enough theyre work more now than when they were new!
@@HewAndAwe buy once cry once that is so true in this game…. I thought I was doing ok when I was buying yellow and black but then I was introduced to mr green which is a whole different level of expense….. but who needs both kidneys… love the film referenced by the way… full metal jacket… quality
That lot at 6:40 is £1500 from a well known carpet maker's shop! Blimey. I bet you are glad you're not buying them today. I've never used a low-angle plane of any kind. My wallet is whimpering at the prospect of me trying one now ... Great video as always.
Hell-yeah-brother! I looked last night, my jaw hit the floor! I’d make a profit if I sold them today 🤦🏻♂️ I found the same with my iMac, I bought a pistol paid for it and when I picked it up the shop said I got lucky as the price had gone up £100 when I purchased it but they would honour the original price 🤦🏻♂️ The world has gone nuts Tim, everything is being made unaffordable for some reason…
It's crazy, I agree. I'm absolutely not a conspiracy theorist but ... I'm making do with ancient Stanley planes that just won't wear out. BTW what's the knob thing you fitted to the jack plane to make it easier to hold for shooting, please?
@@HewAndAwe Seriously appreciate you taking the time to find it, Ben. Thanks. I found this link myself dating back to 2007(!) when a woodworker made his own!
@@HewAndAwe Sim, um dos meus favoritos de Stanley Kubrick, a tradução Nascido para Matar vem da escrita no capacete de Joker "born to kill", a tradução literal do titulo ficaria estranha em português do Brasil!!!
Well I am going to go against everything I have just seen in this video. I have used old Stanley’s or Records for over 40 years and never had a problem with any of them. I even bought a thicker blade for my no4 and no7 and found not a bit of benefit, just longer to get them sharp. I purchased a low angle jack plane to see what the fuss was about, again nothing that I could not do with my old Stanley’s. Whilst I acknowledge that veritas and Leigh Nielsen’s are very well made, what a complete waste of money, in my opinion of course. If it makes you happy then go and buy them but remember low angles sit around 11-12 degrees plus when you add in your 30 degree honing angle you are at around 42 degrees only 3 off what a normal bench plane sits at. Just to point out I am not a weekender and have made fine furniture commercially all my all my life. I guess you pays your money and take your choice.
That's fine an and all except low angle bevel up planes are literally useless marketing gimmicks, no joke, literally useless. What does useless mean? It means it has no actual use and will do a worse job on every single application imaginable compared to a bevel down plane with various bed angles. This is not a debate, it's facts.
I enjoyed this lad, anything "hand planes" is always good 🤙 I tend to stay away from super hard irons, most of my planes are old Records, a quick lick on the stones and I'm back to work..... that powdered metal stuff takes an age to sharpen. Your rebate planes/dado planes are called shoulder planes. A rebate plane or a dado plane is always bevel down, they create the rebate or dado (medium to rank cuts) a rebate plane has no nicker/spur and is used with the grain, a fillister plane has a single nicker/spur on the inside and has a skewed iron for making rebates across the grain, a dado plane has nickers/spurs on both sides and is also skewed for workin across the grain. A shoulder plane is always bevel up and is used to refine joinery (light cuts) it was designed to trim the shoulders of tenons if you saw away from your line. They're bevel up because that's better for end grain and a shoulder is an end grain cut 😁 I use all hand tools, so I'd use a rebate plane to sink the rebate, and a shoulder plane comes along to true it up; often it's best to stop short of your line with a rebate plane, it's easy to cut an uneven floor or to slightly slope it, so the shoulder plane does a good job of fixing that and bringing the rebate to your line. I always use a chisel to fix a shoulder, I find the shoulder plane awkward to use for that job, and I usually want a slight undercut on a shoulder so it sits tight. Theres a jig for the router iron, it's basically a strip of aluminium bar with a notch cut in one end and a hole, the cutting end of the iron screws into the hole and the aluminium bar can be held in a honing guide. If you have a strip of bar stock, any kind of metal will do, it would be easy to make one..... but they are only about a fiver to buy I think; I'm cheap so I'd be inclined to make one 🤷♂️😂 the router plane is a lot older than the 'lectric one, the old wooden ones were known as a "hags tooth", so your comment about it bein like a tooth is spot on 🤙🤣 the spokeshaves, its easier to learn how to use the flat one, the round one takes more control to use, so if ya fancy it, practice with the flat one first.... but it has to be sharp. Think of it like a smoothing plane for curves; you're not gonna be takin heavy cuts with it. The 151 version like you have with the depth adjustments are WAY easier to use than the other kind with no adjustment. Set it like you would a smoother, so its taking no cut, then slowly advance the iron til it takes a light even cut on both sides, if its cutting on one side and not the other set the other side deeper; but this can cant the iron an make the original side that was cutting fine need to be adjusted slightly again. Make sure to always advance the iron, if the screws ain't backing up the iron it can slip backwards. If you have to retract the iron, once the lever cap is tight again, tighten the screws to be tight in their slot and pushing on the iron. I find it easier to pull than push, but itll work both ways, always cut "downhill", sometimes it's hard to see the grain, but a shave will protest straight away if its goin the wrong way so it's easy to know when it wants to go the other way. I will say a newer shave works better than the old ones, and I reckon its because of the thicker iron. I made a jig to hold these in a honing guide, a strip of wood (think mine was about 20mm thick and about 50mm wide) cut a kerf or 2 in the end grain of the block, wide enough so the spokeshave iron jams into it, figure out the projection for your honing guide to get the angle you want, and dado in a little strip on the underside of the block in the right place so it always sits against the front of your guide. The old Eclipse 36 style guide is a great jig, itll sharpen everything you have...... even cambered irons like your scrub. The wheel on that style jig is narrow for that reason, it can be rocked on the wheel for curved irons. My foreplane has about a 250mm radius and that style jig handles it no bother 🤙
I forgot to say; a spokeshave is bevel down....... the first ever time I tried to use one the iron was in bevel up, and I thought that was the way it was used. That didnt go very well for me 😂🤣 metal spokeshave is always bevel down, a wooden one is nearly always bevel up.
@@whittysworkshop982 Ive pinned this comment as theres loads of useful info here that is very helpful! I'll be re-reading this a few times, Id like to learn the spokeshaves as I can see their advantage just never got round to it, gonna need better irons than whats currently in them!
@@HewAndAwe Probably the first time one of my ramblings has been considered as good info 😂
Ray Iles make replacement irons for those shaves, English made then too; if that matters to you 😁 Ray Iles "old tool store" I think it's called, if not the sister company of Ashley Iles might have them, and I'm positive Mathew at Workshop Heaven sells them too 🤙
six minutes; REAL similar to my approach. I got into Japanese handplanes because of the extreme simplicity. I DON'T scoop out the sole the way Nihon no Shokunin (Japanese craftsmen) do. I don't think that there's enough of a benefit - I believe James Krenov would agree with me as well.
A quote that hit me like a ton of bricks comes from Tim Ferris, the really smart bald, white guy on youtube - well, there's a few, but Tim is a genius; anyway, he said, "perfection isn't when you have everything you want - it's when you get rid of everything that you don't need." ...still hits hard...
Do you mean flatten the sole? Never heard of scooping the sole 🤷🏻♂️
@@HewAndAwe Japanese handplanes are typically 90% "complete" (in their eyes) from the maker. The end-user/craftsman will then fettle with it until he's satisfied with the feel and performance. One of these adjustments is to scoop out the "toe" and "heel" of the handplane sole EVER SO SLIGHTLY. Similar to the way they scoop out the back of their chisels and plane irons.
The thought behind it is similar to the cast iron handplanes with those corrugated soles.
My experience is that it's complete bullshit and unnecessary. HOWEVER, a properly fettled Japanese handplane is an absolute DREAM to use! ...just skip the scoop.
I think the same is true for Japanese chisels - a DREAM to use but skip the scoop.
Western chisels and mallets (in my opinion) are cartoonishly oversized and cumbersome to use compared to a properly sized Japanese chisel and gennou hammer.
@zenkenshokunin thanks for that dude, learn something new every day 🤗 as much as I admire jap work I feel it’s way over engineered and unnecessary, it’s beautiful don’t get me wrong…
I'm in the same boat! I started building my pmv11 collection few years back and my absolute favorite is the scrub plane, I use it to groove the edges on 8/4 timber before joining to knockdown the center a tad so the outer edges are always touching, I also use it to pre groove edges before squaring, it makes it so much easier to run the 5 and a half when you're just knocking down peaks. After waiting 2 years of back orders I finally received my full set of pmv11 bench and butt chisels... worth every penny. Thanks for the videos, love em!
That’s interesting, I really thought PMV11 would of been a nightmare for chisels?! in the sense of sharpening so often I mean.
@@HewAndAwe they came perfect from the factory, only one out of 14 gave me a hard time, I use atoma 400 diamond plate and then hit the Shaptons, 1000, 2000, 8000 and 12000 before honing, they hold their edge incredibly well and touch ups take seconds, best chisels I've ever used, I can get my lie nielsen to sharpness easier but it doesn't hold an edge like the pmv11s do... check out the atoma 400 plate it really is a night and day difference from the trend,dmt and all the other plain diamond plates.
Pallet wood that has been Heat Treated (for bugs and grubs and other nasties) is effectively Kiln Dried - but in a nasty ( to the wood) way .... but it is taken up to 150 degrees F and held for a period of time ( after construction I believe) - if you leave it in the shop for a bit it will EQ down to match the shop - I recently glued up a bunch to make leg, rail, stile blanks for shop bench, milled them down a bout ... oh.... 3 months ago now(?) they are still bang on where they came off the bench after the No 7. tidied them up.
Love your choice and order of the planes - with the Block Plane you might futz about until you find the one that fits you well - I don't have any of the Veritas kit so I can't say to that, but each hand is different and the one that fits and is comfy is the one that will work best.
Cheers Greg, that's the answer I was hoping for and I haven't wasted 3.5hrs of my life taking them apart all be it what I have the MC is high..
My favourite plane is my Veritas DX60 low angle block - comes out in all projects for smoothing, planing end grain, shooting board. It's always on the bench.
My other go-to planes are the Vertias bevel down jack plane which finishes the work of my Luban bevel up low angle Jack (absolute workhorse).
Veritas bullnose is brilliant for rebates and shoulders but the front bit can be annoying.
Next plane will be the router - only so much you can do with the small router plane and chisels.
Love the PMV11 planes - just no nonsense set-up and sweet to use and leave an a-class finish. They are pricey here in Australia and during COVID-19 became like hen's teeth.
Like everything mate, thats the world now if you cant buy it, then its made you cant afford it... 😕
thanks for this! i posted on a reddit about how i prefer the use of low angle planes and how i can use them, just got thrown back. I have a Quangsheng no62 and love it. Tried restoring some Stanleys and the geometry of the frog, chip breaker and bevel angle just did me in. Im a huge Veritas fan. Thanks again.
Cheers dude, hope you had a nice weekend 🍻😊🍻
Veritas has a jig to sharpen the router plane blades that's supposed to come with it. They sell it for 5 bucks. I have 2 old routers and I hate sharpening them
I'll have a dig in my drawers then, I quite possibly saw it and thought wth is that for and chucked it in a drawer! Ive not the patience of a saint 😅
I love the Veritas planes, best value for the money! No. 5 Jack plane is the best!! All mine are PMV 11 too.
Yeah I agree, I looked at the next level up and thought there’s really little in it bar they’re more expensive, so Vertas won the day for me. Hope you had a lovely Christmas! 🍻😊🍻
oh matey, love the cut of your jib there, and agree with 99.9 of all you said there, 'cept I love my spoke shave, great for many things,and my go to is defo my block plane, fab vid thanks for posting. Keep 'em coming,have a good week.Cheers bud
Thanks Paul, only cause like I said I dont know how to use them I havent sat down to find out how to use them, I did buy them cause I can their value in the workshop mind. not sure on the particular ones I have, the blade is like tin foil!
Great review and informative. I was getting ready to restore a bunch of old Record planes but after this I think I'll just buy Veritas low angle planes.
I don’t think you’ll regret that, the next price up the lie Neil sons are much different.
Iv got a few Veritas and Lie Neilsen planes and chisels and there defenetly great bits of kit but they don't come close the early 1900s quality of Spiers , Mathieson , Clifton , Norris or Holland planes in my humble opinion but ever man is different and theres a plane for every man . Pointless Joiner fact # 1.
In Scotland a no78 rebate plane is called a Skewed Geelum
Great video Ben. Keep rubbing that wood
Cheers Kurt, I’ve not had the pleasure of said planes, I’ve seen the Norris and they look really uncomfortable to use?
@@HewAndAwe the clifton and norris might fuck with your carpal with the high angle . Horses for courses n all that
Well seems like getting the low angle Block and Jack I've started well. No idea what steel is in them though. (Googles - M2 High Speed Steel (HSS) apparently, also thicker than normal). Dropped the bloody block plane today, and nearly cried. Little divot in the corner and blade chipped, needs a full regrind :(
Oh-nooooo!!!! I so feel your pain!!! I'm guessing concrete floor, I know its a bit late but when I had a concrete workshop I got a large bit of carpet from a firm that were throwing it out and put it where I do the hand work in my workshop, especially chisels they often end up on the floor. Something else if you ever get a different workshop that has a wooden floor dont paint it, it goes like an ice rink with wood chips down!
@@HewAndAwe It's the garage and it gets wet when the car parks after rain so no carpet for me. I do have a rubber mat under the workbench (helps stop it from moving) and it is soft-ish. Think I'll get another for in FRONT of the bench too ;)
Loving your straight shooting style
Keep them coming
Thanks Ferb, I appreciate the complement! Hope you had a nice weekend! 🍻🍻🍻
Another great video, I bought myself a couple of second hand planes for restoration, but not sure if i've got the patience or the spare time at the moment, so eying up an allrounder to get me started! Cheers
Hey buddy! Hope youre well mate! I bought two old planes with a restoration in mind, and I can safely say "fuck that! life is to short!" The hours involved translated into money buy you new with out the work! Theres other versions of the low angle, its just a case of how many "updated" bits can you live with out...
Wonderful explanation Ben. I got a block plane and a couple of No 4 shoukd have got the No 5 😁
Thank you mate!!! Still time to get one lol ...what ever your preference is 😊
Nice vid Ben. I am looking at buying a No.5. Not considered a low angle plane but you have given me food for thought.
If I remember rightly it was you who asked for the vid - did I miss anything out that you might want to know? Not that I know much but I always wonder did I get the vid right...
@@HewAndAwe Yes it was me and thanks for putting it together another great vid. I don’t you think you missed anything at least as far as I am concerned.
They really are so blooming expensive
Yeah I saw last night, they’re just blatantly ripping people off now.
Hi Ben, enjoyed listening you talk on hand planes. Great see your collection and to hear all the pros and cons and what they're all used for. Unfortunately I'm at the other end of the spectrum avoiding hand work and the slower pace of achieving that goal. Tony
I was to mate for ages, but you can’t beat the sound of silence sometimes over a a screaming router for instance.
Hi Ben I have a question please. What bench vise would you recommend? The one you're using looks fine. I don't need a moxon vise or anything fancy like that. Just one for planing end grain and cutting joints. Many thanks.
Oh mate thats easy, a carpenters vise! One with a bench dog is vital, the quick release not so much but nice to have. Buy the best you can afford, with the biggest reach, yeah you'll use it once a blue moon but you will be well grateful you had the option! Honestly all the other stuff on the market is just peeps taking something simple and re-inventing it badly! Not to mention tear you a new arse hole in ££££. Seat the rear jaw into the bench sop the rear jaw becomes as big as the whole lengh of the bench! You could go really old school and go with the hook and a hold down... but its not as good as a carpenters vise.
@@HewAndAwe Thanks Ben! I was aiming for the carpenters vise with a dog on the front and likely quick release too. There's one from Axminster which is about a ton so that will do. Second hand vises are probably worn out. Thanks again.
Hi Ben, great telling and great content. Thank you. Keep on rolling in this way. Greetings from Germany
Thank you G for the compliment! I hope you’re well! 🍻😊🍻
Another great vid Ben. I've been growing my collection of Veritas planes as well; pretty much the same order you suggested here. I have the router plane and it came with a sharpening jig to attach the blade to. You can pick it up at axminster for under a fiver. It can then be sharpened using the mk2 honing guide. Shoulder plane is next on my list 🤤
For content ideas: I have two old stump off cuts from a silver birch. Stuck for ideas on what to do. Epoxy filled side table, join together for coffee table, bit big for wall clock (I watched you vid for that one). If you have some stump offcuts I'd be interested what creative ideas you come up with. Might be suitable content.
Thank you Graham! Someone else said the same, and said it came with the plane, but I havent been to the worksop for a while to look. I take it youre talking of cookie style cuts of birch? I made a clock out of a cookie from birch, think I have a vid of that here on youtube, I polished the hell out of to get it to look that nice! But honestly with out seeing what you have its tough to say, I often have wood in the shop and can spend years looking at it before I have that moment "THATS WHAT I SHOULD MAKE OUT OF IT!" Feel free so shoot me some pics...
I don't get our Yankee planes either. Had a friend that used and mastered them. Had a stroke before he taught me the tricks. Kiln dried black walnut has inferior color to air dried. That's all I know about that. Will be keeping a close eye on estate sales for Veritas. I'm a poor Yank.
Good luck mate, the prices are just mental - I haven't bought a tool for ages Im not paying the stupid money being asked they're not of that value in the first place!
Once again loved the video, agree with your choices. I do love the Veritas planes, not the blades. Thanks once again.
Cheers Liam, interesting - when I bought them you had a choice of blade PMV11, A2 and O1.
Going to definitely look at the PMV11
Fuck you've got some serious kit. Really appreciate your thoughts on hand planes, I have alot of really old timber planes and old Stanley and Mem Pacific's. The only new plane that I have is a cheap Stanley block plane the same as yours. I really like it for what it is, it's just a handy little thing to have on hand. I am going to be buying new planes over the next year unless Stihl decide to drop a new range topper chainsaw on the market again (the 500i set me back 2 years on tool purchasing)
Its a cluster fuck at the mo, I mean wtf £5 for a lump of Lurpak last month, near a 100k for the new Golf if youre in AU - banks love this, pays their depts, I hate this, the beer I like £3.75 a bottle WTF! Good time to sell, well no cause no one can afford to buy... Its not a fun right now eh... 😕
In your last last video you gave us a Very Specific Anatomical Protuberance to practice our grip for using a Cross-Cut-Saw. What would you recommend for practicing a Hand-Plane grip?? Also, practice for a Japanese Pull-Saw ....
Like you're choking the chicken 😅
nice collection.
Cheers Stan! Hope you are well fella!!! 🍻🍻🍻
Just bought a vintage (1950s rosewood handles) Stanley 4.5 boxed in total mint condition. As new condition, absolute bargain on eBay. Look like it just left the shop. Have a Stanley block plane which I have fettled but it is still shit. Looking for a jack plane and rabbet plane to complete the collection (for now)
Nice find Rob! I just like an easier life when it come to tools to feel the old school planes need to much thinking in a way, not explainig myself well.. Put it this way I started out with such crap tools, I'll never forget the mitre saw, I kid you not every cut I had to re-set the fence, that beat me down to all I want from a tool now is can rely on on it and spend very little time making it just work, its not tool snobbery...
@@HewAndAwe Absolutely, been there done that. I have an unorthodox entry into carpentry as I worked in pharmaceutical industry for twenty odd years then got ill so I get tired quickly. Can only work when I am well. So now do odd carpentry maintenance work for people but building up to kitchens and bespoke built in stuff. Just whatever pays. Totally agree to buy the best tool you can afford. I am rarely disappointed when I buy the pukka item, frequently disappointed when I go cheap. Many thanks for the reply. Working though your videos.
Today's handplane price's are nowt more than disgusting, the money these companies must be making, at least Dick Turpin used a mask 😷 when robbing you.
Haha yeah I looked last night and my jaw hit the floor, I didn’t pay anything like that back in the day, I bet I could sell them second hand for more than I payed for new 😬
@@HewAndAwe I know exactly what you mean I've bought countless tools in pat 3yrs and when I've checked on todays prices I could sell the lot and almost double my money back!!!
Great video Ben. It is disappointing how expensive hand planes are these days!
Tell me about it, I looked last night... it seems everything I own could be sold for the same as what thye cost new if not more in some cases like my iMac... The world has gone nuts!
I'm going to stop watching your video's.... 😀 a bit like the Domino one... wish I had seen this first... Just getting into hand planes, as wanted the finishing capability I cannot get with the power tools. Also recently needed one to fix something that I cocked up.... went for Old Stanley ones... Block plane, No.5 and a No. 7 but wish I'd researched more about the low angel.... to be honest didn't really understand why you go low angel v normal but agree the set on the normal ones are a challenge.. great video, learnt a lot... keep them coming...
I saw the cost of them so I spent a lot of hours researching, I do with everything I buy, I only want to buy once, and cry once - oddly enough theyre work more now than when they were new!
@@HewAndAwe buy once cry once that is so true in this game…. I thought I was doing ok when I was buying yellow and black but then I was introduced to mr green which is a whole different level of expense….. but who needs both kidneys… love the film referenced by the way… full metal jacket… quality
That lot at 6:40 is £1500 from a well known carpet maker's shop! Blimey. I bet you are glad you're not buying them today.
I've never used a low-angle plane of any kind. My wallet is whimpering at the prospect of me trying one now ...
Great video as always.
Hell-yeah-brother! I looked last night, my jaw hit the floor! I’d make a profit if I sold them today 🤦🏻♂️ I found the same with my iMac, I bought a pistol paid for it and when I picked it up the shop said I got lucky as the price had gone up £100 when I purchased it but they would honour the original price 🤦🏻♂️ The world has gone nuts Tim, everything is being made unaffordable for some reason…
It's crazy, I agree. I'm absolutely not a conspiracy theorist but ...
I'm making do with ancient Stanley planes that just won't wear out.
BTW what's the knob thing you fitted to the jack plane to make it easier to hold for shooting, please?
@@tim_biller this is it but I can't find a UK link... www.hyvlar.se/en/hot-dog-for-the-low-angle-jack-plane
@@HewAndAwe Seriously appreciate you taking the time to find it, Ben. Thanks. I found this link myself dating back to 2007(!) when a woodworker made his own!
Gostei da referência a nascido para matar!
Haha! I wasn’t sure anyone got that. 😬 was that what it was called where you are? Was called Full Metal Jacket here..
@@HewAndAwe Sim, um dos meus favoritos de Stanley Kubrick, a tradução Nascido para Matar vem da escrita no capacete de Joker "born to kill", a tradução literal do titulo ficaria estranha em português do Brasil!!!
Well I am going to go against everything I have just seen in this video. I have used old Stanley’s or Records for over 40 years and never had a problem with any of them. I even bought a thicker blade for my no4 and no7 and found not a bit of benefit, just longer to get them sharp. I purchased a low angle jack plane to see what the fuss was about, again nothing that I could not do with my old Stanley’s. Whilst I acknowledge that veritas and Leigh Nielsen’s are very well made, what a complete waste of money, in my opinion of course. If it makes you happy then go and buy them but remember low angles sit around 11-12 degrees plus when you add in your 30 degree honing angle you are at around 42 degrees only 3 off what a normal bench plane sits at. Just to point out I am not a weekender and have made fine furniture commercially all my all my life. I guess you pays your money and take your choice.
Wasn't really my point Gary, that you seemed to of missed.
That's fine an and all except low angle bevel up planes are literally useless marketing gimmicks, no joke, literally useless. What does useless mean? It means it has no actual use and will do a worse job on every single application imaginable compared to a bevel down plane with various bed angles. This is not a debate, it's facts.
Bore off.