I think the reason they used the slotted screws on the side is the sawdust gets in the Allen screws and you have to dig the dust out with a scribe I changed mine and had that problem so I changed back to the slotted screws
Very well argued, James! Even though I know you’re not “selling” this plane, your passion and enthusiasm for it makes me really want to buy one! Great job, and thanks!
I have 4 custom planes and love them!! The quality and attention to aesthetics make me smile when i see them. My wife laughs that i talk to them affectionately! Lol I too have stripped the small screw. Lee valley tools shipped replacement screws. Screws are a small issue compared to everything else that is awesome!
Having spent about an hour searching for it the first time I took it out of mine, it's a point worth raising. Doesn't take away all the other goodness, of course, but I feel like I should order a box of spares just in case.
@@MrBwschwarzcan you glue the washer to the screw? Seems like it might be harder to lose? I've never tried one, so I'm sure there's good reason for not doing so.
But having shared my thoughts re the screw, I must add that Veritas tools are insanely good quality. I have a few of their micro planes that I use for Luthiery and jewelery box making. If I didn't have a #51 shooting plane I would be getting the Veritas shooting plane for sure.
Well said and I really enjoyed this. I use almost exclusively older planes that I restore, because I can still find them affordable in garage sales and antique mall nooks and crannies. And in restoring them, I come to know the tool inside and out. My favorite jointer is a 24" wood body and my go to is an old Stanley 5 that I cleaned up and that just sings. I also have a British made 12-204 that I use for fast, rough work, such as shaving flats on turning blanks for mounting face plates. I have an o-o-old Stanley 45 with a full set that fulfills a lot of my one-time needs. I could go on but you get the drift. Anyway, lovely bit.
Just got my custom #4 the other day and boy were you right about it. Customized to how I wanted: O1 blade and traditional tote. Set the mouth once and then the set screw and its set till you want it changed. Set the chip breaker once and its set for good (or for at least a few sharpenings). The blade arrived lapped (actually sharp enough to take perfect shavings without honing it). This plane takes the fiddling out of hand planing.
I agree, lee valley makes amazing tools. I have used Like Nielsen planes and they are beautifully finished but the innovations Lee Valley brings to their tools makes them my favorite.
After thinking about it for many weeks, and listening to many opinions, ultimately you helped a great deal to convince me, and I'm getting a Veritas Custom #4 as my first plane.
I don’t know if it’s the best, but it’s the one I drool over when I’m looking at planes online. I ordered a custom #7 a couple of years ago, but the shipping kept getting delayed because of supply chain issues and I wound up cancelling the order and buying a Veritas shooting plane instead, which I also love.
I have a Veritas number 4 and a veritas spokeshave. I love the quality of the product they put out. Everything fits tight and feels great to use. Also worth mentioning that they have great customer service!
I think that sometimes you just fall in love with a specific tool, and people will either agree/understand or disagree. For me it's my Marples M4. The same as Stanley and record no4, but to me feels completely different, and you accept any flaws in it because it just feels perfect to you. Great video, it so nice to see people who aren't swayed by flashy tools, but by how they work, feel and make you feel while using them.
Thanks for the video. I doubt that I will ever get one, but plane collecting is an addiction. I like the idea that they are still experimenting with plane designs. The Bailey design is over 150 years old. Although it has been tried and tried for that long, it does have some shortcomings.
I still like my antique planes; I have a type 9 #4 which I’d imagine is over 100 years old, and I was recently gifted a type 1 #3 smoother which needs a new knob. The tote is three separate pieces of wood from a long time ago. Both are wicked sharp.
I've never used a LV plane before but I can see your arguments related to customization and departures from the traditional Bailey patterns. For me, the best plane I've ever used and thankfully own is the old Norris A5. I prefer a Norris adjuster over everything else, I love the weight, the thick iron, and tight mouth. I smile every time I use it.
I have a couple of Veritas planes, the most recent being the 5 1/4 Bench plane and that is brilliant. I have one of their block planes too with the extended handle on it and I use that all the time too. Have a bunch or other Veritas tools and never been dissapointed. Also have some HNT Iron Wood planes (very hard and dense Australian timber); tricky to setup but they work great when you get them right.
Those side screws are essential with Norris adjusters, otherwise it doesn’t work. I’ve made a few planes with Norris adjusters. I much prefer the Stanley adjuster system. The Norris lever needs to be longer, but then it would get in the way. My other gripe is the ridiculous free play backlash in the Stanleys. So I mostly use a Stanley with a better iron.
veritas tools are excellent, i have a few, in fact veritas is the only modern handtool maker in my shop. i also use a nice collection of old stanleys. a custom #4 is on my short list but to be honest, it will face some real competition from my old stanley #4 and bedrock #605!
Bought it couple years ago as my first bevel down plane. I love the simplicity of the bevel up Jack (and use a toothed iron occasionally), but it was all the adaptability that made me choose the "custom". Plus even an idiot like me can true an edge to a face with that fence. 🤣
I bought one and when I was trying to assemble it I broke the screw on gizmo that holds the cap iron to the cutter. The head of the screw got lost on the floor it’s so tiny and I hadn’t swept for a couple of hours. I quickly determined that it was too finicky for me and a deal breaker. I drove back to Lee Valley and returned it. I have the Veritas Number four and I am quite pleased with that one.
I have one with two frogs and the fine adjuster. It is a joy to use. If I ever decide to get a No 5 (no I don’t have one), it will also be a veritas custom
I agree about the Lee Valley planes, they are well thought out. My favorite is the LA jointer, it can do almost anything. I also have the skew angle rabbit plane. It’s a biotch to get it set right but after some fiddling it cuts really well. The set up and use of it would make a good video. (Hint, hint)
I've been waiting for what seems like it must be three years now for the Union hand plane that I pre-ordered from them when they initially announced that they would be re-tooling and making new ones. I sure hope it winds up being worth the wait for my x/100 plane. I may have thrown good money after bad, we'll have to wait and see.
Hi james, may i suggest using a T handle allen key? If used correctly they prevent you from stripping out the screws. When you tighten the screw at a certain point the key starts to bend slightly and that's tight enough. So the key gives you feedback, it's easier on the hand and since it's bigger it's easier to find in the shop.
I have a standard Veritas #4 that I sorely mistreated when I got it because I didn't understand planes. It has a number of features like the adjustable frog that's a little easier to use than a Stanley, but I find I never use that feature. Now, I am thinking that if I get another 4, I'll get one of the Reed 55° adapters so I can have that high angle. The Veritas #4 I still need to fiddle with more before I'm super confident about just grabbing it and using it as the final smoother.
love the #4 custom. my first real bench plane. do you notice the frog sits a bit forward though? my frog is just slightly over the mouth opening, and can't move it back any further to make it flush with mouth - only forward, further into mouth
I really appreciate a company that’s willing to think outside the box and build a better mouse trap, but I pretty much stick with the vintage Stanley stuff. I keep meaning to get a shoulder plane and I’d probably go with something new on that because the older stuff wasn’t that good or is overly expensive.
You'll be happy with a Veritas for that for sure. I have a bit of an absurd number of hand planes, including a ton of old Stanley, Union, Sargent VBM, etc, and a large collection of Veritas, among many others like wood river, etc. My first shoulder plane was a bench dog, and it's utter crap. I now have all 3 veritas, plus the set of 3 little detail rabbit shoulder planes. No, there is no reason to get all those sizes, I'm just a bit if a mix of a user and a collector. Anyway, if you do mostly small to medium size projects, the medium is perfect. If you do a ton of large tables, big furniture, etc, then the large will serve you better. And you'll be very pleased with it. I have not had the chance to try the LN, but the handle in it is more traditional and probably more comfortable for some, so if you can get your hands on both, would be useful comparison.
You should add a link to your Reed adjuster in this video. I had to rewind a few times to make sure I'd heard you correctly -- I too don't care for how adjusting the Lie Nielsen's depth can cause the blade to skew. I knew about the Howard adjuster and that Eckert had stopped selling them. Curious, and a little excited, I spent some time googling and found your REED bearing page. 😁
I firmly believe when you say you can get the same shavings with a HB plane… I know that because I bought the number 4 style HB plane as my first plane because if I couldn’t get a crap plane to work then I would never get any plane to work, theoretically.
That allen wrench set up is a deal killer for me. I mean, I would lose it in the first day or two. Some of the other features look good. I do like the traditional lever cap. Side adjustments aren't a problem, but I seem to prefer using a small hammer for micro adjustments rather than the lever. I seem to over correct too often with the lever....
I would love to try one because it seems to be a great plane but I'm not sold on the Norris style adjuster (most probably because I own the very same low angle plane you do and I prefer the "stanley" adjuster) and its a fairly steep price to get one just to try and see for myself 😂
Being "long in the tooth" in woodworking (my entire working career)I've always been a power type of guy. The hand tool end of the game is new to me.I love how you don't try to talk over my (and others) head(s). I've been to a few junk (antique) stores and have bought a few #4 Stanley's, Baileys (wooden base type) and my wife bought me 2 old Craftsman (also #4's). Now, with all this being said, what type, ease of use, brand name, style, frog angle, etc. should I buy to start with. Please try to keep it in the range of $200 to $300 per plane if at all possible? Also, I'd like to make my purchase a one time deal. I don't know if this makes any difference, but I'm left handed also. Thanks for your time, you've made the decision of making the move to hand tools much easier.
Well the #4 custom is is $300 so in that price range ... in the end it all comes down to your tastes. they can all do great work it is just how much work do you want to put into setting them up and the fit and finish level you want.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you for replying. The #4 custom will be first on my list. I'm surprised at it's cost. I was under the impression it would be priced much higher.
@@brucegibson8053 Veritas is very well priced for the quality you get. Not cheap, but good value. Learning to sharpen is the most important thing to focus on now. Use all those 4s to get really really good at it before you invest heavily in expensive planes. Then, you generally want 3 planes to have a nice set of general purpose planes. A jack plane (5, or 5 1/2 if you like larger and heavier), a jointer (7 for most people), and a smoother (3 for some, most seem to prefer larger 4 over 3, or 4 1/2 if you like wider and heavier plane). A nice low angle block plane is very handy too. A great very nice starter set would be veritas custom 4, veritas 5 1/2, and veritas 7. If you want to splurge for custom on just one, I'd do it on the smoother... It matters more there. Then you'll open a whole world of chisels, saws, specialty planes, layout tools, etc. It's addictive 🙂
I'll stick with my old, refurbished Stanley planes. I have from #3 to #7, I donated a #8, too heavy for my arthritic body. I have the original blades in most of them and they work well. Sharpened and stopped I get whisper thin shavings. I haven't paid over 80 dollars for any of them.
James, if you recommend (as you did in the video) a 30 degree frog, you will have zero clearance angle. The blade will then not cut. You have also missed discussing setting the closed chipbreaker and aligning this with the frog angle. My own #4 has a 42-degree frog, and my #7 uses a 40-degree frog. This is the lowest one can go to, and it ONLY works with a closed chipbreaker (otherwise you will tear out on most woods). Regards from Perth, Derek
I have not spent much time with lower bedding angles for bevel down planes. Are you using these lower angles for specific woods or in general use? Also I would like to know more about your testing that lead you to arrive at the angles.
The lower the angle it's easier the plane is to push. But the higher the chance it's going to cause tear out when going against the grain. So if you're working with a straight grain board and going with the grain, a low angle is a pleasure to push. However, if you working with difficult grain, a higher angle will give you a cleaner surface just a bit harder to push.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo No, that will not work. A 25° bevel on a 30° frog leaves 5° clearance. That is too little to prevent the plane choking. It will stop the blade cutting. There needs to be at least 8° minimum and around 12° ideally. Read Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" (Leonard Lee is Rob Lee's late father. Rob Lee runs Lee Valley/Veritas, whose plane you are reviewing. I played with it while it was in pre-production form. For the past 15 years I have been road testing planes and tools for Veritas). I will add a link to an article I wrote separately - adding it here may block this post.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo A lower cutting angle is indeed easier to push, but it also leaves a brighter surface. A high cutting angle may resist tearout better, but it leaves a duller surface. A closed up chipbreaker prevents tearout, and even when the cutting angle is low. Hopefully you can see the article I have linked to below.
I've really enjoyed your videos, thank you! I just received a custom#4, my first BD plane. My BU Veritas LAJ has been a joy to use, simple, well machined, love the "feel". However...I have a lot to learn on BD. Do you have a "how to" video on what to change when your BD plane "is just not right"? For instance, pick a material, maple, walnut or fir, what's a good place to start with the mouth opening, why?, and then show the difference it makes. What's a good distance to start for the chip break to be from the blade edge, and then show the change it makes with the current piece of material. If your getting little "hunks" torn out of your board, does that mean your blade is dull?, what are the options (because you now have a "hole" in your precious material, and don't want to make any more "holes"). As a BD "newbe", the above is what I have to learn. Your teaching style is enjoyable and easy to follow. I look forward to learning from your years of experience.
Sounds like fun. Unless you're working with difficult grain you can have the mouth open about a 16th inch or more. Same thing with the chip breaker back from the edge. It's only on difficult grain where you're getting tear out that you want to move to the mall tighter and closer. The tighter the mouth and the closer the chip breaker the cleaner the cut you get on difficult grain. Difficult means you're getting tear out not that the wood itself is hard. But usually the first thing to do is just to sharpen. Sharp iron and a low cut will answer most problems.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you:). I was having decent results with the BU, but having trouble with the BD. Can't wait to try your suggestions. I probably have both the mouth and blade set incorrectly. I appreciate your patience and reply
That worked! Thank you:). I was doing the exact opposite, super tight everything. Stropped the blade just to be sure, then loosened up the mouth and breaker, and presto, it works. Wanted to acknowledge and Thank you very much:)!
Struggling right now with deciding buy vintage, buy a decent mid-range No 6 plane currently on sale, or splurging for the Veritas No. 5-1/2 custom Jack. You have me leaning towards saving up for the Veritas. Unfortunately LN and Clifton are just way out of the price range. Thanks for the video!
they are not going to give you any better work, it just comes down to how do they make you feel and how much work does it take to dile it in each time.
If you were between a vintage 5 1/2 and the veritas custom version, I'd say that's a harder call... I have several old 5.5s that are fantastic, though less able to be dialed in than a veritas custom (I don't have the 5.5, but have 4 and 7). The money saved on vintage might well be worth it there. Personally, I don't find the 6 to be a size I like to use for much, so between those 2, I'd go Veritas no doubt. I prefer a 7 for jointing even smaller work, and the 5.5 is a great all around plane. The 6 just seems to be stranded in not all that useful range. My 6s rarely get used.
@@michaelcummins5974 thanks for your input. I enjoy hearing other people's thoughts as it helps maybe get a different perspective. I've been going back and forth debating whether to save money and purchase vintage, with the expectation that I will have to put some time in tuning it up, or just buying one nice new plane that can cover most of my needs for now. I have an old Stanley Bailey No 4-1/2 that I inherited and put a new iron in, but it still needs some work. I would love to find an old Stanley 5-1/2 for $20 but that size isn't so common in the US it seems, and I don't get much time to try and search the flea markets, and garage sale season won't start up again until it warms up a little. When I look on ebay, it seems like most decent vintage planes end up going for more than I would have thought, which makes me ask "if I am going to pay over $100 plus shipping for an old plane that will need work and possibly a new iron, should I just save and buy new?". Still I guess $100-$150 is less than half of the Veritas 5-1/2 which currently lists at $359 in the US. The advantage of the Veritas is very little initial with to get started and I like the idea of an adjustable mouth and set screws to keep the iron aligned. Very much a "set and forget" setup. My reasoning for thinking of getting a no. 6 again had to do with the thought process of if I could only get one plane right now, a 6 could be used for straightening, flattening, and joining smaller boards.
@@Nick-iz9zo that 4.5 will be well worth the effort to get it tuned up nice. I'm a big fan of smoothing planes and have an embarrassing number of them, but I gravitate towards the 4.5 size as I like the extra width and weight. A jointer doesn't need to be crazy fancy imo. I say this having a fancy veritas custom 7, but I stumbled on it for a decent deal and couldn't pass it up. I have a lot of vintage tools, but I also have an excessive collection of Veritas tools as I just love working with them, and the value to price is unmatched in hand tools, imo. Anyway, a jointer needs to be nice and flat. You don't need to be able to dial it in so perfectly like a smoother, and it doesn't really need to take wisp thin shavings. Honestly, most work you do with a jack plane is even less precise. So if you want to upgrade the most critical plane, James has it right... The smoother is the one to get just right. I like having multiple with different set ups and to cut more or less final finish passes, so you could get by with your 4.5 nicely tuned up for now, and maybe later add a more premium smoother... Then you do the bulk work with the 4.5 and take the last shooting passes with you premium one. Less fiddling with setups and your fine dialed in finish plane won't need taken apart to sharpen as often, losing that perfect setup each time. Anyway, yeah used market is kinda crazy high now and it's hard to find $20-30 vintage planes anymore. I tend to agree it's not worth the time and hassle to tune an old one up these days with the current prices. Maybe check out Cosman videos about how he uses 5.5 for almost everything. It might suffice for you even for smaller jointing tasks. It's a very versatile plane if you'd rather buy one high quality plane than a couple more moderate ones. He likes Woodriver... I have some and they're pretty good for the money, but personally I'd rather spend a little more for the Veritas. If you want to save some money, the standard Veritas bench planes are still fantastic and a little cheaper. The custom are very nice, but if you're not going to customize them with different frogs etc, there isn't that much benefit over the standard line. I don't know that I'd say the custom is worth it for a 5.5 if you plan to have a good smoother and jointer eventually, but probably is worth it if you plan to use it as one plane to do all those tasks.
@@michaelcummins5974 thank you again for the reply. The Rob Cosman videos on using the 5.5 is what led me down that path. I was thinking of getting a good 5.5 and then getting a couple irons for rough work / straightening / flattening, and one for smoothing. I'm still a very novice woodworker and have been primarily a power tool user until I recently discovered how much I really enjoy using hand tools. I do plan to continue to tune up my 4.5. It was my great-grandfather's so I have sentimental reasons for it, even though it is a war era model with the plastic iton adjustment knob and no frog adjustment screw. But I think I can get it performing well as a smoother with a little work. Sounds like you have quite the collection of planes!
Any plane is better than the one im using. Its one of those folded steal frog planes with a missing adjuster assembly. So i had to craft one. (Im not a machinist) made it out of a elevator bolt and a flush mount nut that is conmecter to a regular bold i had to file conecting knobes.
Veritas custom hands down. don't get me wrong the LN is an amazing plane but it is basically the same as an old Stanley with a few modifications. The Veritas is a whole new plane with modern methods and design. It is a much better-functioning plane in my book.
The biggest problem i see with the veritas custom is that i can’t rest my index finger on the iron😂 I have a Clifton no 5 1/2 and a Lie nielsen no 4 and i absolutley love the Clifton!
James, I agree; love my 4 ½ custom! Have you figured out a way so fragments don’t get stuck in the corners? … kinda like walrus wiskers at the corners of the walrus’ mouth??
#4 Custom Plane screw on ‘auto-set’ plate broke.. believe I was careful..Veritas sending another no charge.. own #4 Lie N. also.. like LV adjustable mouth & auto feature .. like LN brass weight & feel.. really different planes..
The LN has better fit and finish, but is not much better then an antique bedrock. and about the same price. the Veritas custom is a complete redesign and has far more flexibility to it. but in the end it comes down to personal choice and preference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo James: Good points. The only problem is that it's hard to tell how the two differ in actual use without spending considerable time with each in hand for some time - not easy to arrange. Theory is one thing; practice is another. But I thoroughly enjoyed your review. George
Just thought I'd askew, what's your favorite fruit? Pare? I ask because I've been skewing through end grain Fir and SLP with my low angle Jack, and it's almost glorious. Maybe a shorter LA#4 would be less wonky. Can you buy the Custom in any configuration to start, all I saw was buy the standard frog and also buy another (Lee V)? What's 'your' plane of choice for say, 5 x 4 chunks of end grain love'n?
I have seen a few try. the problem is wood grain. if you can find a log that turns at the correct angle it would be possible, but then the grain is going in the wrong direction for a tote. wood yah makes s tote turner that can do that. shop.woodyah.com/The-Original-Tote-Turner-Shooting-Board-Adapter-p528834359
...also, it shouldn't be to difficult to find replacement screws to 'upgrade' the minor issues you described. Most hardware and big box stores will have a board to size the screws for you.
Unfortunately they don't make 1/4 22 anymore. Stanley uses several threads that were at one time common but now are very specialty. Most the time you have to cut your own if you want a new one.
And its Canadian eh? Easily the quality of a Neilson plane and MUCH less expensive. Lee Valley Tools is blocks away from me and I have several Veritas planes. Unlike other planes it is ready to use right out of the box. And yes, you can buy parts. I do not own a custom plane but the regular Veritas planes are very high quality. You can write to Lee Valley Tools in Ontario Canada and suggest improvements. They might even listen to you. I also have Stanley and Bailey planes but the Veritas #4 is a treat.
I got my Veritas custom a few months ago. The fiddly little screw holding the iron to the chip breaker is horrible. I'm trying out simply not using it and relying on the set screws and the cap iron to keep it in place. Seems to be working
Hmm interesting. It doesn't rotate at all? I guess if you have the side set screws dialed in pretty snug it probably wouldn't... I might have to give that a try!
LN basically takes old designs, spruces them up a bit and turns them out with exceedingly high quality. Veritas tends to start from scratch and try to reinvent the tool. Sometimes that means you're going to get a tool and a lot more knobs and features. But a little bit less of that classic look.
Wood by Right has the response spot on...I have both brands. For my bigger hands, the Veritas planes are fantastic as well as the little features added. This Veritas custom plane has a lot of comfort features such as the screws to keep blade in general position thus its less time to tune in when you take out and put iron back in. Both companies have stellar customer service and stand behind their products.
Have you tried the adjustar modified adjuster knobs from Rob cosman on any of your planes? His demo makes all the sense in the world, but I’m not sure how necessary it is for vintage Stanley’s or similar Bailey pattern planes. I’d really like your thoughts on them. Thanks for the great content
I have tried them. I would say if you have grip problems or other hand issues they would be a good send. But for normal use I am not a fan. They can be fun though.
I want to join the argument 😁... no MY plane is the best!... for me 😁 Im considering modifying on of my planes with the new yolk to reduce the slop/back lash. But im debating whether to modify my no.4 or 5. Are you happy with yours? Or wish youd modified a different one instead?
Well James, I live on a desert island with no trees and no way of getting any wood. Thing is, you have been so persuasive that I have ordered 6 custom planes. Oh yes, I have no work bench either. No trees to make one.
I almost bought one. I saw how much you liked it and it looked like there were a lot of new design points that they figured out. I ended up getting a LN and a Wood River, but my Combo plane, Router and new rabbet plane are Veritas. For my jacks and smoothers, I got my restored and upgraded Stanleys. By the way, James, any chance Reed Planes would make a wedge kit for #3’s? That’s kind of my specialty smoother for tough grains
i hate that block plane frome lie nielsen. I just cant seem to use it right i think, but it just sucks to use, and I cant ever get a good rabbet with it.
I think the reason they used the slotted screws on the side is the sawdust gets in the Allen screws and you have to dig the dust out with a scribe I changed mine and had that problem so I changed back to the slotted screws
Very well argued, James! Even though I know you’re not “selling” this plane, your passion and enthusiasm for it makes me really want to buy one! Great job, and thanks!
I have 4 custom planes and love them!! The quality and attention to aesthetics make me smile when i see them. My wife laughs that i talk to them affectionately! Lol I too have stripped the small screw. Lee valley tools shipped replacement screws. Screws are a small issue compared to everything else that is awesome!
That tiny screw holding the cap iron would drive me insane! I can see me losing it the first time I take it out🤣
Having spent about an hour searching for it the first time I took it out of mine, it's a point worth raising. Doesn't take away all the other goodness, of course, but I feel like I should order a box of spares just in case.
@@MrBwschwarzcan you glue the washer to the screw? Seems like it might be harder to lose? I've never tried one, so I'm sure there's good reason for not doing so.
They could offer a custom lever cap...
I can see a few of allen keys and fiddly tiny screws lost in the work bench or floor full of shavings or saw dust. Nice plane though, but...
But having shared my thoughts re the screw, I must add that Veritas tools are insanely good quality. I have a few of their micro planes that I use for Luthiery and jewelery box making. If I didn't have a #51 shooting plane I would be getting the Veritas shooting plane for sure.
Well said and I really enjoyed this. I use almost exclusively older planes that I restore, because I can still find them affordable in garage sales and antique mall nooks and crannies. And in restoring them, I come to know the tool inside and out. My favorite jointer is a 24" wood body and my go to is an old Stanley 5 that I cleaned up and that just sings. I also have a British made 12-204 that I use for fast, rough work, such as shaving flats on turning blanks for mounting face plates. I have an o-o-old Stanley 45 with a full set that fulfills a lot of my one-time needs. I could go on but you get the drift. Anyway, lovely bit.
Just got my custom #4 the other day and boy were you right about it. Customized to how I wanted: O1 blade and traditional tote. Set the mouth once and then the set screw and its set till you want it changed. Set the chip breaker once and its set for good (or for at least a few sharpenings). The blade arrived lapped (actually sharp enough to take perfect shavings without honing it). This plane takes the fiddling out of hand planing.
I have the veritas shooting plane and absolutely love it . Veritas makes high quality tools. 👌
I just ordered one and can't wait to take it for a test drive.
Man I think I do want that but I already have a 4 1/2 Lie Nilson and that thing is amazing.
I agree, lee valley makes amazing tools. I have used Like Nielsen planes and they are beautifully finished but the innovations Lee Valley brings to their tools makes them my favorite.
After thinking about it for many weeks, and listening to many opinions, ultimately you helped a great deal to convince me, and I'm getting a Veritas Custom #4 as my first plane.
I don’t know if it’s the best, but it’s the one I drool over when I’m looking at planes online. I ordered a custom #7 a couple of years ago, but the shipping kept getting delayed because of supply chain issues and I wound up cancelling the order and buying a Veritas shooting plane instead, which I also love.
Would love to try a veritas custom plane all mine are antique or re-builds but I have learnt much by refurbishing old planes.
I have a Veritas number 4 and a veritas spokeshave. I love the quality of the product they put out. Everything fits tight and feels great to use. Also worth mentioning that they have great customer service!
I think that sometimes you just fall in love with a specific tool, and people will either agree/understand or disagree. For me it's my Marples M4. The same as Stanley and record no4, but to me feels completely different, and you accept any flaws in it because it just feels perfect to you. Great video, it so nice to see people who aren't swayed by flashy tools, but by how they work, feel and make you feel while using them.
Thanks for the video. I doubt that I will ever get one, but plane collecting is an addiction. I like the idea that they are still experimenting with plane designs. The Bailey design is over 150 years old. Although it has been tried and tried for that long, it does have some shortcomings.
I still like my antique planes; I have a type 9 #4 which I’d imagine is over 100 years old, and I was recently gifted a type 1 #3 smoother which needs a new knob. The tote is three separate pieces of wood from a long time ago. Both are wicked sharp.
there is a reason I only have one custom.
I've never used a LV plane before but I can see your arguments related to customization and departures from the traditional Bailey patterns. For me, the best plane I've ever used and thankfully own is the old Norris A5. I prefer a Norris adjuster over everything else, I love the weight, the thick iron, and tight mouth. I smile every time I use it.
I have Lie Nielson and Veritas. My go to plane is my Bedrock with a Hock blade. It just feels right in my hand.
I really love all my veritas plains. I don’t have the custom plain but I have the first bevel down plan they made and that I love.
Thanks James you explanened that very well
I have a couple of Veritas planes, the most recent being the 5 1/4 Bench plane and that is brilliant. I have one of their block planes too with the extended handle on it and I use that all the time too. Have a bunch or other Veritas tools and never been dissapointed. Also have some HNT Iron Wood planes (very hard and dense Australian timber); tricky to setup but they work great when you get them right.
Thanks James… This is opening my mind on the Veratas planes
Those side screws are essential with Norris adjusters, otherwise it doesn’t work. I’ve made a few planes with Norris adjusters. I much prefer the Stanley adjuster system. The Norris lever needs to be longer, but then it would get in the way. My other gripe is the ridiculous free play backlash in the Stanleys. So I mostly use a Stanley with a better iron.
veritas tools are excellent, i have a few, in fact veritas is the only modern handtool maker in my shop. i also use a nice collection of old stanleys. a custom #4 is on my short list but to be honest, it will face some real competition from my old stanley #4 and bedrock #605!
I was always going to buy one of these planes l love all the custom features available ; knobs , totes adj. mouth good video presentation.
Bought it couple years ago as my first bevel down plane. I love the simplicity of the bevel up Jack (and use a toothed iron occasionally), but it was all the adaptability that made me choose the "custom". Plus even an idiot like me can true an edge to a face with that fence. 🤣
I bought one and when I was trying to assemble it I broke the screw on gizmo that holds the cap iron to the cutter. The head of the screw got lost on the floor it’s so tiny and I hadn’t swept for a couple of hours. I quickly determined that it was too finicky for me and a deal breaker. I drove back to Lee Valley and returned it. I have the Veritas Number four and I am quite pleased with that one.
I have one with two frogs and the fine adjuster. It is a joy to use. If I ever decide to get a No 5 (no I don’t have one), it will also be a veritas custom
I absolutely love my veritas custom planes!!
Interesting, for sure! I would want to go and play with one for a while with all the different options before I built one to purchase.
i wouldnt recommend the flat knob on a 4, but I did get one on my custom 5, and I live that plane. every plane I use with pmv11 has just been a joy.
I agree about the Lee Valley planes, they are well thought out. My favorite is the LA jointer, it can do almost anything. I also have the skew angle rabbit plane. It’s a biotch to get it set right but after some fiddling it cuts really well. The set up and use of it would make a good video. (Hint, hint)
I don’t have a custom but the two Veritas I have are great ( LA block and Jointer). Cheers.
@7:26 I know a company that makes the PERFECT driver for those little screws.
I like the way you look!
I've been waiting for what seems like it must be three years now for the Union hand plane that I pre-ordered from them when they initially announced that they would be re-tooling and making new ones. I sure hope it winds up being worth the wait for my x/100 plane. I may have thrown good money after bad, we'll have to wait and see.
Hi james, may i suggest using a T handle allen key? If used correctly they prevent you from stripping out the screws. When you tighten the screw at a certain point the key starts to bend slightly and that's tight enough. So the key gives you feedback, it's easier on the hand and since it's bigger it's easier to find in the shop.
That is what I normally use. But I could not find it for the video.
You have the right to be bias and have One tool you really dig . Cheers !
I have a standard Veritas #4 that I sorely mistreated when I got it because I didn't understand planes. It has a number of features like the adjustable frog that's a little easier to use than a Stanley, but I find I never use that feature. Now, I am thinking that if I get another 4, I'll get one of the Reed 55° adapters so I can have that high angle. The Veritas #4 I still need to fiddle with more before I'm super confident about just grabbing it and using it as the final smoother.
Thank you for the beds angle comments/suggestions.
love the #4 custom. my first real bench plane. do you notice the frog sits a bit forward though? my frog is just slightly over the mouth opening, and can't move it back any further to make it flush with mouth - only forward, further into mouth
I really appreciate a company that’s willing to think outside the box and build a better mouse trap, but I pretty much stick with the vintage Stanley stuff. I keep meaning to get a shoulder plane and I’d probably go with something new on that because the older stuff wasn’t that good or is overly expensive.
You'll be happy with a Veritas for that for sure. I have a bit of an absurd number of hand planes, including a ton of old Stanley, Union, Sargent VBM, etc, and a large collection of Veritas, among many others like wood river, etc. My first shoulder plane was a bench dog, and it's utter crap. I now have all 3 veritas, plus the set of 3 little detail rabbit shoulder planes. No, there is no reason to get all those sizes, I'm just a bit if a mix of a user and a collector. Anyway, if you do mostly small to medium size projects, the medium is perfect. If you do a ton of large tables, big furniture, etc, then the large will serve you better. And you'll be very pleased with it. I have not had the chance to try the LN, but the handle in it is more traditional and probably more comfortable for some, so if you can get your hands on both, would be useful comparison.
👍 on the plane. For me I will stay with every bodies plane. I have a Vertex scubing plane. No cons just love using it.
You should add a link to your Reed adjuster in this video. I had to rewind a few times to make sure I'd heard you correctly -- I too don't care for how adjusting the Lie Nielsen's depth can cause the blade to skew. I knew about the Howard adjuster and that Eckert had stopped selling them. Curious, and a little excited, I spent some time googling and found your REED bearing page. 😁
No thanks for the reminder. I might have to add that. You can find them at www.woodbywright.com/shop
Thank you mate !!
Those, unfortunately, are heck expensive here in Brazil, James... 😬
But some day... Who knows...
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I firmly believe when you say you can get the same shavings with a HB plane… I know that because I bought the number 4 style HB plane as my first plane because if I couldn’t get a crap plane to work then I would never get any plane to work, theoretically.
Nice review! Thanks for this.
You really make me want this plane even though I really don't need it. Hehe. Well, some day!
That allen wrench set up is a deal killer for me. I mean, I would lose it in the first day or two. Some of the other features look good. I do like the traditional lever cap. Side adjustments aren't a problem, but I seem to prefer using a small hammer for micro adjustments rather than the lever. I seem to over correct too often with the lever....
I would love to try one because it seems to be a great plane but I'm not sold on the Norris style adjuster (most probably because I own the very same low angle plane you do and I prefer the "stanley" adjuster) and its a fairly steep price to get one just to try and see for myself 😂
The Norris adjuster on that Stanley sweetheart is absolutely painful. Some of them are good and some of them really aren't.
I kind of want the “old dogs, new tricks” joke to go with a modified design of bench accessory that fits a 3/4 hole.
Nobody sells them in the Uk now and when they did the price was about 60% more than in N America!
Being "long in the tooth" in woodworking (my entire working career)I've always been a power type of guy. The hand tool end of the game is new to me.I love how you don't try to talk over my (and others) head(s). I've been to a few junk (antique) stores and have bought a few #4 Stanley's, Baileys (wooden base type) and my wife bought me 2 old Craftsman (also #4's). Now, with all this being said, what type, ease of use, brand name, style, frog angle, etc. should I buy to start with. Please try to keep it in the range of $200 to $300 per plane if at all possible? Also, I'd like to make my purchase a one time deal. I don't know if this makes any difference, but I'm left handed also.
Thanks for your time, you've made the decision of making the move to hand tools much easier.
Well the #4 custom is is $300 so in that price range ... in the end it all comes down to your tastes. they can all do great work it is just how much work do you want to put into setting them up and the fit and finish level you want.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you for replying. The #4 custom will be first on my list. I'm surprised at it's cost. I was under the impression it would be priced much higher.
@@brucegibson8053 Veritas is very well priced for the quality you get. Not cheap, but good value.
Learning to sharpen is the most important thing to focus on now. Use all those 4s to get really really good at it before you invest heavily in expensive planes.
Then, you generally want 3 planes to have a nice set of general purpose planes. A jack plane (5, or 5 1/2 if you like larger and heavier), a jointer (7 for most people), and a smoother (3 for some, most seem to prefer larger 4 over 3, or 4 1/2 if you like wider and heavier plane). A nice low angle block plane is very handy too.
A great very nice starter set would be veritas custom 4, veritas 5 1/2, and veritas 7. If you want to splurge for custom on just one, I'd do it on the smoother... It matters more there.
Then you'll open a whole world of chisels, saws, specialty planes, layout tools, etc. It's addictive 🙂
I'll stick with my old, refurbished Stanley planes. I have from #3 to #7, I donated a #8, too heavy for my arthritic body. I have the original blades in most of them and they work well. Sharpened and stopped I get whisper thin shavings. I haven't paid over 80 dollars for any of them.
James, if you recommend (as you did in the video) a 30 degree frog, you will have zero clearance angle. The blade will then not cut. You have also missed discussing setting the closed chipbreaker and aligning this with the frog angle. My own #4 has a 42-degree frog, and my #7 uses a 40-degree frog. This is the lowest one can go to, and it ONLY works with a closed chipbreaker (otherwise you will tear out on most woods). Regards from Perth, Derek
I have not spent much time with lower bedding angles for bevel down planes. Are you using these lower angles for specific woods or in general use? Also I would like to know more about your testing that lead you to arrive at the angles.
For the 30° frog, you just need to sharpen the iron at 25°.
The lower the angle it's easier the plane is to push. But the higher the chance it's going to cause tear out when going against the grain. So if you're working with a straight grain board and going with the grain, a low angle is a pleasure to push. However, if you working with difficult grain, a higher angle will give you a cleaner surface just a bit harder to push.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo No, that will not work. A 25° bevel on a 30° frog leaves 5° clearance. That is too little to prevent the plane choking. It will stop the blade cutting. There needs to be at least 8° minimum and around 12° ideally. Read Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" (Leonard Lee is Rob Lee's late father. Rob Lee runs Lee Valley/Veritas, whose plane you are reviewing. I played with it while it was in pre-production form. For the past 15 years I have been road testing planes and tools for Veritas). I will add a link to an article I wrote separately - adding it here may block this post.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo A lower cutting angle is indeed easier to push, but it also leaves a brighter surface. A high cutting angle may resist tearout better, but it leaves a duller surface. A closed up chipbreaker prevents tearout, and even when the cutting angle is low. Hopefully you can see the article I have linked to below.
I've really enjoyed your videos, thank you! I just received a custom#4, my first BD plane. My BU Veritas LAJ has been a joy to use, simple, well machined, love the "feel". However...I have a lot to learn on BD. Do you have a "how to" video on what to change when your BD plane "is just not right"? For instance, pick a material, maple, walnut or fir, what's a good place to start with the mouth opening, why?, and then show the difference it makes. What's a good distance to start for the chip break to be from the blade edge, and then show the change it makes with the current piece of material. If your getting little "hunks" torn out of your board, does that mean your blade is dull?, what are the options (because you now have a "hole" in your precious material, and don't want to make any more "holes"). As a BD "newbe", the above is what I have to learn. Your teaching style is enjoyable and easy to follow. I look forward to learning from your years of experience.
Sounds like fun. Unless you're working with difficult grain you can have the mouth open about a 16th inch or more. Same thing with the chip breaker back from the edge. It's only on difficult grain where you're getting tear out that you want to move to the mall tighter and closer. The tighter the mouth and the closer the chip breaker the cleaner the cut you get on difficult grain. Difficult means you're getting tear out not that the wood itself is hard. But usually the first thing to do is just to sharpen. Sharp iron and a low cut will answer most problems.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you:). I was having decent results with the BU, but having trouble with the BD. Can't wait to try your suggestions. I probably have both the mouth and blade set incorrectly. I appreciate your patience and reply
That worked! Thank you:). I was doing the exact opposite, super tight everything. Stropped the blade just to be sure, then loosened up the mouth and breaker, and presto, it works. Wanted to acknowledge and Thank you very much:)!
Hi. Thanks for sharing.
Struggling right now with deciding buy vintage, buy a decent mid-range No 6 plane currently on sale, or splurging for the Veritas No. 5-1/2 custom Jack. You have me leaning towards saving up for the Veritas. Unfortunately LN and Clifton are just way out of the price range. Thanks for the video!
they are not going to give you any better work, it just comes down to how do they make you feel and how much work does it take to dile it in each time.
If you were between a vintage 5 1/2 and the veritas custom version, I'd say that's a harder call... I have several old 5.5s that are fantastic, though less able to be dialed in than a veritas custom (I don't have the 5.5, but have 4 and 7). The money saved on vintage might well be worth it there.
Personally, I don't find the 6 to be a size I like to use for much, so between those 2, I'd go Veritas no doubt. I prefer a 7 for jointing even smaller work, and the 5.5 is a great all around plane. The 6 just seems to be stranded in not all that useful range. My 6s rarely get used.
@@michaelcummins5974 thanks for your input. I enjoy hearing other people's thoughts as it helps maybe get a different perspective.
I've been going back and forth debating whether to save money and purchase vintage, with the expectation that I will have to put some time in tuning it up, or just buying one nice new plane that can cover most of my needs for now. I have an old Stanley Bailey No 4-1/2 that I inherited and put a new iron in, but it still needs some work. I would love to find an old Stanley 5-1/2 for $20 but that size isn't so common in the US it seems, and I don't get much time to try and search the flea markets, and garage sale season won't start up again until it warms up a little. When I look on ebay, it seems like most decent vintage planes end up going for more than I would have thought, which makes me ask "if I am going to pay over $100 plus shipping for an old plane that will need work and possibly a new iron, should I just save and buy new?". Still I guess $100-$150 is less than half of the Veritas 5-1/2 which currently lists at $359 in the US. The advantage of the Veritas is very little initial with to get started and I like the idea of an adjustable mouth and set screws to keep the iron aligned. Very much a "set and forget" setup.
My reasoning for thinking of getting a no. 6 again had to do with the thought process of if I could only get one plane right now, a 6 could be used for straightening, flattening, and joining smaller boards.
@@Nick-iz9zo that 4.5 will be well worth the effort to get it tuned up nice. I'm a big fan of smoothing planes and have an embarrassing number of them, but I gravitate towards the 4.5 size as I like the extra width and weight.
A jointer doesn't need to be crazy fancy imo. I say this having a fancy veritas custom 7, but I stumbled on it for a decent deal and couldn't pass it up. I have a lot of vintage tools, but I also have an excessive collection of Veritas tools as I just love working with them, and the value to price is unmatched in hand tools, imo. Anyway, a jointer needs to be nice and flat. You don't need to be able to dial it in so perfectly like a smoother, and it doesn't really need to take wisp thin shavings. Honestly, most work you do with a jack plane is even less precise. So if you want to upgrade the most critical plane, James has it right... The smoother is the one to get just right. I like having multiple with different set ups and to cut more or less final finish passes, so you could get by with your 4.5 nicely tuned up for now, and maybe later add a more premium smoother... Then you do the bulk work with the 4.5 and take the last shooting passes with you premium one. Less fiddling with setups and your fine dialed in finish plane won't need taken apart to sharpen as often, losing that perfect setup each time.
Anyway, yeah used market is kinda crazy high now and it's hard to find $20-30 vintage planes anymore. I tend to agree it's not worth the time and hassle to tune an old one up these days with the current prices.
Maybe check out Cosman videos about how he uses 5.5 for almost everything. It might suffice for you even for smaller jointing tasks. It's a very versatile plane if you'd rather buy one high quality plane than a couple more moderate ones. He likes Woodriver... I have some and they're pretty good for the money, but personally I'd rather spend a little more for the Veritas.
If you want to save some money, the standard Veritas bench planes are still fantastic and a little cheaper. The custom are very nice, but if you're not going to customize them with different frogs etc, there isn't that much benefit over the standard line. I don't know that I'd say the custom is worth it for a 5.5 if you plan to have a good smoother and jointer eventually, but probably is worth it if you plan to use it as one plane to do all those tasks.
@@michaelcummins5974 thank you again for the reply. The Rob Cosman videos on using the 5.5 is what led me down that path. I was thinking of getting a good 5.5 and then getting a couple irons for rough work / straightening / flattening, and one for smoothing. I'm still a very novice woodworker and have been primarily a power tool user until I recently discovered how much I really enjoy using hand tools.
I do plan to continue to tune up my 4.5. It was my great-grandfather's so I have sentimental reasons for it, even though it is a war era model with the plastic iton adjustment knob and no frog adjustment screw. But I think I can get it performing well as a smoother with a little work. Sounds like you have quite the collection of planes!
Nooooooooo!!!! This is very good info, I have (according to my wife) too many planes, and I am afraid i will turn into a tool collector!
Any plane is better than the one im using. Its one of those folded steal frog planes with a missing adjuster assembly. So i had to craft one. (Im not a machinist) made it out of a elevator bolt and a flush mount nut that is conmecter to a regular bold i had to file conecting knobes.
Feeding the algorithm! Om nom nom!
Scientifically shaped, just like a scientist
I don't know if I can believe this is the best plane until I've seen a side by side comparison of the Veritas vs a Pexto.
LOL now that would be the video!
Between Veritas and LN I'd love American made but for price AND quality ya can't beat Veritas! Would like me a 5 1/2 custom but$$$...
Darn, I was hoping you were giving it away as a prize.
😂
They should build in a holder around the back of the plane to hold the hex tool, otherwise that will disappear in short order.
Thanks for sharing James. Would you recommend the Veritas Custom over the LN for a No. 7? I can't find anyone who has tried it.
Veritas custom hands down. don't get me wrong the LN is an amazing plane but it is basically the same as an old Stanley with a few modifications. The Veritas is a whole new plane with modern methods and design. It is a much better-functioning plane in my book.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for the fast reply!
The biggest problem i see with the veritas custom is that i can’t rest my index finger on the iron😂 I have a Clifton no 5 1/2 and a Lie nielsen no 4 and i absolutley love the Clifton!
ya I forgot to mention that. with the 40 degree frog I can rest it there but the higher angles I can not.
Do you have to flatten the bottom or can you use it out of the box?
Good to go out of the box
James, I agree; love my 4 ½ custom!
Have you figured out a way so fragments don’t get stuck in the corners? … kinda like walrus wiskers at the corners of the walrus’ mouth??
Not sure what you are talking about. Corners of the mouth, or on the top by the frog?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo looked at from underneath, looking at the sole, stuck in the corners where it’s a bit rounded, where the adjustable mouth closes.
I have not had that problem. That is interesting.
My only plane is that harbor freight 33 plane LOL
#4 Custom Plane screw on ‘auto-set’ plate broke.. believe I was careful..Veritas sending another no charge.. own #4 Lie N. also.. like LV adjustable mouth & auto feature .. like LN brass weight & feel.. really different planes..
Beautiful plane. It is hard to know how it compares with my LN 5 ½ which is my favorite.
The LN has better fit and finish, but is not much better then an antique bedrock. and about the same price. the Veritas custom is a complete redesign and has far more flexibility to it. but in the end it comes down to personal choice and preference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo James: Good points. The only problem is that it's hard to tell how the two differ in actual use without spending considerable time with each in hand for some time - not easy to arrange. Theory is one thing; practice is another. But I thoroughly enjoyed your review. George
What size is yours (4, 4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2)? Keep up the good work!
Mine is a 4.
Does a high angle always or usually do a better job at smoothing even on ordinary grain?
In general yes as it has more settings you can adjust to dile it in.
Just thought I'd askew, what's your favorite fruit? Pare?
I ask because I've been skewing through end grain Fir and SLP with my low angle Jack, and it's almost glorious. Maybe a shorter LA#4 would be less wonky. Can you buy the Custom in any configuration to start, all I saw was buy the standard frog and also buy another (Lee V)? What's 'your' plane of choice for say, 5 x 4 chunks of end grain love'n?
Nice!
Does the gap in the sole near the nose caused by the mouth adjuster ever get caught on high spots on the wood? I could see that taking a beating.
That is not a problem at all.
I wonder if you couldn't make a tote that is angled to use for a shooting plane?
I have seen a few try. the problem is wood grain. if you can find a log that turns at the correct angle it would be possible, but then the grain is going in the wrong direction for a tote. wood yah makes s tote turner that can do that. shop.woodyah.com/The-Original-Tote-Turner-Shooting-Board-Adapter-p528834359
My brain didn't go to adapting a regular tote or the grain of the wood for a 'bent' tote. Seems like the adapter is a good application. 👍
...also, it shouldn't be to difficult to find replacement screws to 'upgrade' the minor issues you described. Most hardware and big box stores will have a board to size the screws for you.
Unfortunately they don't make 1/4 22 anymore. Stanley uses several threads that were at one time common but now are very specialty. Most the time you have to cut your own if you want a new one.
👍
There is a tool made for items that have silly undersized grub screws a tap and die set ( hmm tool or tools?).
Don’t use the ball head Allen key to tighten a screw. That head strips screw sockets very easily.
yup. I have a handle I normally use. I just grabbed this one for the video for some reason.
And its Canadian eh? Easily the quality of a Neilson plane and MUCH less expensive. Lee Valley Tools is blocks away from me and I have several Veritas planes. Unlike other planes it is ready to use right out of the box. And yes, you can buy parts. I do not own a custom plane but the regular Veritas planes are very high quality. You can write to Lee Valley Tools in Ontario Canada and suggest improvements. They might even listen to you. I also have Stanley and Bailey planes but the Veritas #4 is a treat.
The best planes are the ones found for
Amen! preach it brother!
Clifton
As Tattoo said ze plane ze plane
I got my Veritas custom a few months ago. The fiddly little screw holding the iron to the chip breaker is horrible. I'm trying out simply not using it and relying on the set screws and the cap iron to keep it in place. Seems to be working
Hmm interesting. It doesn't rotate at all? I guess if you have the side set screws dialed in pretty snug it probably wouldn't...
I might have to give that a try!
Could
You make a review about their « Scottish « style plane?
What plane ? Don't think I've came across it yet .
I’m seriously curious about the differences, pros/cons regarding Lie Nielsen and Veritas.
LN basically takes old designs, spruces them up a bit and turns them out with exceedingly high quality. Veritas tends to start from scratch and try to reinvent the tool. Sometimes that means you're going to get a tool and a lot more knobs and features. But a little bit less of that classic look.
Wood by Right has the response spot on...I have both brands. For my bigger hands, the Veritas planes are fantastic as well as the little features added. This Veritas custom plane has a lot of comfort features such as the screws to keep blade in general position thus its less time to tune in when you take out and put iron back in. Both companies have stellar customer service and stand behind their products.
Have you tried the adjustar modified adjuster knobs from Rob cosman on any of your planes? His demo makes all the sense in the world, but I’m not sure how necessary it is for vintage Stanley’s or similar Bailey pattern planes. I’d really like your thoughts on them. Thanks for the great content
I have tried them. I would say if you have grip problems or other hand issues they would be a good send. But for normal use I am not a fan. They can be fun though.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks for that fast response man
I want to join the argument 😁... no MY plane is the best!... for me 😁
Im considering modifying on of my planes with the new yolk to reduce the slop/back lash. But im debating whether to modify my no.4 or 5.
Are you happy with yours? Or wish youd modified a different one instead?
I have modified my 4, 4.5 and my main 5. So my answer would be modify them all!
Use a straight end Allen wrench instead of ball won’t round out so many
That's what I use as well. I just couldn't find my T handle for the video and this is the only one I had.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo even classier
Well James, I live on a desert island with no trees and no way of getting any wood.
Thing is, you have been so persuasive that I have ordered 6 custom planes.
Oh yes, I have no work bench either. No trees to make one.
Could you swap out all the screws to be the same?
they are different thread sizes.
Well, the Norris Adjuster might not be quite as annoying as a one-touch zoom lens…
Looks like Veritas did a lot in coming up with the design. That said, I’m not a fan of the Norris style adjuster.
Same here, but this one is very different from most.
I almost bought one. I saw how much you liked it and it looked like there were a lot of new design points that they figured out. I ended up getting a LN and a Wood River, but my Combo plane, Router and new rabbet plane are Veritas. For my jacks and smoothers, I got my restored and upgraded Stanleys. By the way, James, any chance Reed Planes would make a wedge kit for #3’s? That’s kind of my specialty smoother for tough grains
1.5 times of a months minimum wage in my country. Not including shipping and import tax.
For how long have you been woodworker? maybe in a couple a years and more experience you will update this video :)
I have been woodworking for over 30 years now. About 1/3 of that exclusively with Handtool.
i hate that block plane frome lie nielsen. I just cant seem to use it right i think, but it just sucks to use, and I cant ever get a good rabbet with it.
ARGUE ARGUE ARGUE!!!!! I prefer a 747!