Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration: Turning and Installing a New Bronze Bushing
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration: Turning and Installing a New Bronze Bushing
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“Perfect”, taps one more time. Now it’s perfecter.
Perfecter is good! I loved that "perfect" comment too.
The bigest advantage of vintage machinery is the level of rebuildability of it. Your boring mill is probably going to meet or exceed its original level of precision.
Those internal mics are the Cat’s Pajamas! Much better than snap gauges. Me lust after your tooling collection!😊
I always set expanding mandrels by smacking the big end of the mandrel with a dead blow hammer. To release, smack the small end. I'm enjoying the restoration videos.
You can make a slush from Acetone and dry ice that will get you halfway to liquid nitrogen temperature, more than cool enough to shrink bearings for a tight fit.
Excellent tip.
Methanol will work too, if acetone is unavailable.
“That’s perfect.” Hits it again. LOL
On the expanding mandrel what about tapping it on with a piece of brass or aluminum pipe rather than a brass punch. Just a thought.
Thanks for all your content for this rookie machinest.
best machining content on UA-cam.👌👌👍👍
28:13 That's pretty neat! Notice the line of frost on the bushing as it precedes the press.
You look much healthier,have some fun now that your feeling better.
This boring mill is going to be CHERRY when you're done! Nice work as always!
Good Morning from snowy Massachusetts!⚙️🛠😀👍
Glad to see my expanding mandrels went to a good home.
Great work.
Always glad to see you making progress on the Lucas bar project
It will be a nice addition to your collection and a very versatile machine
Keep up the good work
Nice job! The expending mandrels are howsome.
By cleaning the shoulder of the bevel gear, it may induce some play in the articulation with the other bevel gear so a little shim could be needed.
Good professional job on that bushing. I expect the bore probably closed up about .001 after the bushing was pressed in and the temperature normalized.
Using a brass drift to seat & unseat the part on the mandrel: brass is soft, but work hardens. I once used a brass hammer to drive a shaft out of a seized pulley & the end of the shaft was visibly deformed. It was a smaller diameter at the end, so it didn't affect getting the pulley off, but it taught me a lesson that brass is not as soft as you might believe.
Excellent, I can't wait to see how you are going to get the stoker engine on the HBM - that will be a bit of crafty jigging.
Can,t wait till the next episode, Tanks.
Good morning Keith!
I like that when watching I find myself knowing what the next thing you are going to say, thanks to watching these highly instructional videos. I have learned so much by watching. Glad to be a patreon supporter, however so small.
Nothing boring about this restoration!
shrink fit, press fit, interference fit, sliding fit always get me
Very satisfying video! And I have some major tool envy going on. Expanding mandrels and bore micrometers would be so helpful to me with the things I do with my (much smaller) lathe: making adapters and parts for telescopes. I cannot see myself affording them right now, but I can sure add them to my Someday List!
Won't be long that will be your go to machine! 🙂
I was thinking about that oil hole, but you addressed it at the end.
Just got a brand new 31st edition Machinery's Handbook yesterday! Hard cover no less! Going in my "Emergency Engineering" kit with my old Frederick Post Versalog 1460 slipstick, a solar powered calculator, and a stack of notepads. In an ammo can. These days you never know... 🤔
Awesome. You consistently produce the best machining content on UA-cam.
Can’t thank you enough.
Please keep up the great content.
Just wanted you to know how well appreciated your efforts are by a great many from all parts of the globe.
👍👍👍🇦🇺
KEITH, TELL ALL HELLO, GREAT VIDEO...SEE YOU WHEN...
Thanks for sharing
On the expanding mandrels, I use a brass hammer on the big end to seat it and on the small end to release it.
That GEAR shoulder that you turned down to square up how are you going to put shims to get the gear engagement proper?? 28:50 perhaps knocking back that bronze bushing help with the shim stock to get the gear engagement proper
brilliant work keith machining is such rewarding work...glad you didn`t attempt to lift that casting especially after your surgery!
My B&S Apprentice final project Draw up from comp prints one set shop prints obtain Proper material and make full set of expansion arbors from 3/8"- 2-1/2" perform all machining operations with occasional oversight from Journeymen toolmakers.
Good morning from sunny (but cold) Lincolnshire UK ☀🥶
Hiya Keith
Wow really nice work.
Another great vid - thanks.
Great video Keith!!! Thanks for taking us along!!
Nice job.
Great repair video Keith.
Thanks for sharing.
Oh I enjoy many of your videos, especially the large refurbs and rebuilds, my only unsolicited complaint is how often dialogue is repeated about the same process or object and or share a detail then negate it’s importance rather than omit.
I like that mic.
Great job Kieth. I love work like that as I was a fitter machinist in England but sometimes I would not use a lathe or mill for a couple of months at a time.
I like to learn from you way more than anyone else. I always like to see when you have a new one. Thank you so very much. Ron
It seems like it would help to polish about half of the tool marks off the gear's surface. Some variation helps to hold oil, but burrs from cutting and peak height variations promote wear in the bushing -- initially at least. I do love to watch you restore these old things. It seems that they engineer away much of the lifetime in the new ones.
People no longer want to pay for a machine that will last 100 years. I can't really blame them.
@@kindabluejazz They have been burned too many times paying for 30 years and getting 2 years.
That's a lot of improvement on fitment. Well done sir!
Used the heat lamp method and freezer today worked like a charm
Very very nice work Keith.
Art from Ohio
Another nice repair. Im wondering how the arbor support bushing is doing. 😊
Keith- one thing that seems to be a recurring dialogue in your iron deficiency is the need to “ while we’re here might as well “ items. Yea it would work. For a while. But while we’re here, might as well …..…….we’ll just chuck up this here piece of ( insert material) and fix this as good as new. Yup, that’s just the way it should be approached. Keeps the “should have done it when I first found the issue “ at bay. Proper. Happen to have this piece of brass bushing stock that would be perfect ( chance of that in my life is never) Whoops, looks like the surface has worn on this gear, so we’ll just smooth this up. Just happened to have an expanding mandrel here….. how long have you been collecting these “ scraps “ and oddball tools? I continue to be amazed with the “ stuff “ that appears in the shop. Well done 👍
It seems like a small detail, but I suspect it will add to the consistency and precision of the machine.
Also a bit less noisy - less rattling.
as usual great content. thanks
Nice work!. I saw a you tube clip about a guy that had one just like it. He said he wont do a full restore on it, just make it work...
Excellent as usual.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Nice.
Great video thank you
It would have been easy to cool that bushing here this morning. It was a brisk -6 F.
Having a bore mic over telescopic bore gauge has to be nice. Never had that luxury in my day let alone expanding taper mandrels other than some 5C stuff.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍
May I suggest that in place of your heat lamps use a 1500w heat gun. Like you'd use for stripping paint.
Thanks Keith! That was a cool repair!
Most excellent.
Keith I have had good results from using Plumbers Freeze spray for freezing pipes, it will chill the bushing down nicely with a good spray of the stuff, I've done a 0.004" interference fit quite happily with no shaving as it drops in. It's easier to get than liquid Nitrogen and stores better.
I'm interested in seeing what projects will be made on this HBM vs a Vertical or Horizontal mill.
Liked a lot. Thank you
In UK machining terminology that's a live centre in the chuck anda dead centre in the tailstock, save transatlantic confusion for anyone.
Great video Keith.
After driving the bushing in, did you measure the bore again? I might have thought that the interference fit might have reduced your .0025 clearance on the gear a bit. It doesn’t matter in the end but I was just curious.
Cheers
Great job !!!!!!
making bushes. First year apprentice work.
"Short rows" must be a term from plowing? Thanks for another nice demo.
That it is. It means you are getting to the end of the field/job.
At 3:25 Keith is talking about how to press out the bronze bushing. He is making a part to help with pressing it out with a long rod through the hole in the top of the casting. Couldn't the casting be flipped 180 degrees to push the bushing out from the other side? Too heavy?
It can be done as you say, but going through the upper hole helps ensure the alignment of the drift being hammered on. As this is a big part its not that much of a difference, but for many situations it's a big help.
Everytime I see another machinist say "we will Begin by facing the part", I hear Blondihacks in my head finishing it.. "as is tradition" lol
Great video once again Keith. Thanks
Does the expanding mandrel cause the ID and/or OD of the part to expand?
Interesting question.
The short answer is yes, it expands.
The longer answer continues: but not significant for practical machining. Every material has a modulus of elasticity and therefore, as force is applied, the material deforms like a spring until the material reaches ultimate tensile strength, wherein the material will yield and have permanent deformation. The amount of force Keith is applying is small compared to the modulus and therefore, there is correspondingly small deformation. Keith need only apply enough force radially to generate a retarding frictional force necessary to overcome the urging cutting force.
I do hope this made sense.
@@WhatAboutTheBee Great explanation. Thank you.
@@mikewatson4644 you are quite welcome
Wondered if the frezzer would be used.
Not having any experience with machining work, When Keith says he's going to take 100 thou off the part, does he have to do the math in his head and only dial 50 thou in or are the dials on the machine set up so you dial in 100 thou and the slide only moves 50 thou?
You are right with the last part of your comment. Some lathes have direct reading on the horizontal slide, meaning .050" inch on the dial means taking 0.050" depth of cut; means 0.100" taken off the diameter of the part being machined. However that is for a minority of machines. Most lathes have a diameter reducing scale on the cross slide, meaning adjust inward 0.050" on the dial means 0.050" taken off the diameter. If a DRO is fitted, the DRO readout for the cross slide can be set up to read the decrease in diameter (the same as the cross slide dial) - note it can also be set up to read the reduction in radius, but that would be confusing and don't know why anyone would set it up that way. However, on the longitudinal axis, the DRO is set up to read directly, meaning move the carriage sideways 0.500", the DRO reads a change of 0.500" - as the cutting tool moves 0.500". Hope that helps. Retired machinist.
Wondering if that bushing sets the height of that gear. If so, gear mesh might be off.
Having worked on such old machine setups I would guess the meshing shaft will have bushing at the collars of the vertical part that give means for adjustment. We'll find out when Keith re-assembles the tailstock.
I'm waiting for a project where you use the metal planer to machine something.
First to push the like button
I don't understand something here, at 23:19 is Keith hammering on the wrong side of the tapered mandrill? Shouldn't he be tapping on the upper end to snug it up? Help me understand, please.
When he says "It's perfect", then gives it one more wack.. That scene pretty much told the story of my life... The only difference is when I do it, I end up going too far, and making a new part.
Pleace show us how much play it has.🙏
I missed where you scraped the ways on the tail stock Keith....
Also the vertical ways of the bed are not scraped yet
Whew, I'm 'bushed'... 🙂
How is that bearing lubricated
.... Wait to end !!!
Are measuring in both metric and bananas?
Probably exceeds the original spec
Another nice satisfying job. Again, very well done.
Wouldn't a socket and all thread, be quicker?
😀
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😊😊❤❤🦾🦾🦴👍👍👍👍👍
I wouldnt insult my machines like that. I'd call it the exciting mill and not a boring mill
.0045 crush O/D on a bush that is about 2 1/2 OD and only 2 to 2 1/2 thou running clearance before installation . ???? There is no way that gear would have just slid in . Bloody lucky you did not crack the casting .
I’ve watched your videos for years and always enjoy them- so this is hardly criticism. I just wonder with machines as large as yours, why do you always take such light cuts? Turning down that bushing press tool, you took only .050” per side and “just repeat that 9 more times.” Man that’s a lot. I’ve noticed over the years that you don’t take the “Abom79” or even “Fenner” depths of cut. Certainly these depths of cuts aren’t required, but I’m guessing your machines are perfectly capable, no?? Why repeat 9 more times when you could just do 3 or 4 big cuts? Is this just a preference thing?
Можно было наружний диаметр обработать в конусах
Keith, what's going on with that mic? I'm hard of hearing and even turned up, I am having problems.
The mic is very directional, probably to reduce picking up all the machine noises in the big room. It's a trade off of lower background noise versus having to remember to turn his head towards the mic every time he speaks.
Just watched a Plumbing video by Roger Wakefield and saw something you might be interested in. He shows how Oakum and Lead plumbing joints used to be made, and showed a VERY handy tool that you may be interested in for your next Babbitt Bearing pour - it's called a "Running Rope", and it's basically a short piece of rope that is resistant to the temperature of molten lead, and packed around a joint to seal and guide the molten lead into the joint. It may be a MUCH easier and cleaner way to pour babbitt into bearings!
Check it out at: ua-cam.com/video/RoRw2AoeluE/v-deo.html
I want to know what you want to charge to make this for me?