You went over your Order Of Operations for each step. You then showed us how you solved each problem (especially the chatter). You are a great machinist AND a great teacher. Thank you.
Definitely an inspiration to get out in the shop! Not sure if you get any time to read these comments, but one word of advice - clean your MIG gun nozzle. All that spatter on the end will disrupt the gas flow giving you a less than optimal shielding gas envelope and can lead to porosity and a weak weld.
Always keep it clean, agreed. A nice new tip and a nice clean nozzle is like the difference between a dull end mill and sharp end mill. A little gel dip helps as well....Ricko
Great watching lathe work! Most hated words, "we're all done turning.", 😥🥺😅 think lathe work (the watching part anyways) is one of the most relaxing things to watch! Great job sir!
Keith I have been watching your channel for awhile and wanted to tell you thank you for sharing. I am a hobby machinist who has learned so much from your series. You do a great job of explaining how you plan out and complete a project. Ric
I wondered about this, but could a tight fit introduce additional stresses once welded (given the dissimilar steel alloys)? Speaking of stresses, would it be overkill to temper the weld with a torch before final machining? Without knowing what MIG wire Keith was using I don't know if the welded area could have become brittle and susceptible to breakage if accidentally knocked sometime in the future. Heat might also reduce the run-out perhaps, but then again I suspect you could easily end up chasing warps all over the place and ruin the leadscrew.
I was wondering why he didn't cut that for a press fit, for that reason in addition to not having to hold it. Or even go farther along those lines, bore the hole bigger and shrink it onto the new stub, could probably get away with no weld even.
Keith, that Marvel Saw is fantastic. Would love to have room for one of those in my shop. It is too bad they quit making such a good machine. Glad you are feeling better.
When I saw that runout after welding I was filled with trepidation. But you thought ahead and had compensated for it like a pro. In the end, all good! I like a little drama every once and a while!
Good workman job. I have stubbed a lot of shafts, would have bored that hole a bit if I could, turned part to shrink fit in or at least a hammer fit. Just makes the welding easier, as far as the welding goes, I am an old 7018 guy, but your wirefeed weld looked good. Trued up center, great. Vibration, I have had to drop rpm down into the dirt at times, high speed tools work. Threading this is easy, any multiple of the leadscrew pitch, just engage the halfnut. Probably 4 tpi, so 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24 etc, just engage the halfnut, don't have to look at dial. Got into a job one time, 5 tpi, running on steady, extension bar to hold toolbit, carriage past point I could use chasing dial. Chalked the chuck and watched keyway in leadscrew. Got it done.
Lots of critical comments. Always critical. Thank you for all your content and time. To be fair if it were a load bearing part with lots of shear stress, this may not have been the ideal method but good enough is good enough. This will last long after those cogs get buggered up again. Cheers.
I saw something like this over on the Cutting Edge Engineering channel. To get the weld straight he put the part back in the machine and held the piece to weld on with the center of the tailstock, then tacked it in place, then finished welding on a welding rotator. Would have been nice if it would have gotten welded on straighter, but if it still works as intended there's no problem.
Great project, turn it all better than I thought it would. Take a look at a tip of a nozzle on your welder, you got a lot of junk buildup in there. But you got to be careful because sometimes that will get stuck in your weld. Don’t ask me how I know that.
How I do this kind of repair is to make the register a slight interfierance fit, heat the shaft and freeze the slug and then tap the slug in and allow everything to normalise that way you can set the shaft on a pair of V blocks and true it up with a dial indicator. Then tack it up at 180 degrees to each weld at four points and check with the indicator again, if its out tack the high spot and then quench. Then to fully weld I preheat the whole thing and have the torch mounted to the bench with a clamp
my only connection to machining is having a late uncle who was a machinist by trade, but I really enjoy your videos. thanks for making the world better. glad you're back to health. all the best to you, sir.
Keith first check how far out a sample peace is before taking on the bed ways. You may find the machine well tolerance. Or maybe I missed the video that proved the need. Good luck, looking forward to seeing her running.
You should go look at Cutting Edge Engineering Australia the young man has many tooling hints that could help!! I watch your and his all the time, never hurts to get a new idea, even at our older ages!
Many ways to cook a chicken. I would have bored both peices and made a long pin, and slid it on, then welded it. I would cut the spline on my shaper because its what i have, no horizontal mill. However, your flavor looks wonderful, as usual. Thank god for extra tolerance. Well Done.
Love your videos Keith!!! Looks like you could use some nozzle dip for your welder… helps cut back on spatter build up on your Mig nozzle. Also, whenever I’m welding near/on a clean machined surface, I use an anti-spatter spray, works wonders for preventing spatter from sticking to the work piece! (Especially helpful for threads) you’ve been a huge inspiration for me to get back into machining! Keep the awesome videos coming!!! Thank you!!!
Hi Keith, I did not really know what your mill was used for, I just watched a UA-cam from Poole machinery. He used a horizontal boring mill, what a versatile machine, I am really looking forward to you using your mill and am now understanding what you can use it for. great repair I hope to see it working soon.
Every time Keith says, "rinse and repeat", I start laughing because that's the instructions from shampoo bottles, and I always get a momentary image of him showering water on the work and pouring shampoo on it and lathering it up.
Why couldn’t you have used your tail stock to hold the piece true while you welded it? I’ve seen your large fire blanket you could have used to protect the lathe? Just thought that would have been a more precise way of keeping things in line.
Having done many of those at .010 left on the stub and .005 on the face I used my tool post grinder and walked in .came out perfect.Having said that well done.
Watching these projects is very nice my only negative point is we never see them do any projects like all the work and modification on the metal planer
Great job Keith. LOL>>I might be doing the same job one day!! Inspect the area where you grounded. I always attach the ground where High current or arcing will not hurt the part or travel through a bearing. In this case it is my opinion that closer to the end would have been better.
so the cautious start down a slippery slope has triggered an avalanche? ... i've been there before would the big monarch have taken that shaft through the spindle? kind of surprised you haven't showed that one in use by now, being one of the first machines that came in the shop
It has the excessive wobble because the fit was too loose, you could see it move side to side when you did the test fit. It should have been an interference fit and TIG welded for better heat control. Calipers are fine for rough cuts but not for a precision fit like that should have been.
Instead of tacking the new end on the welding table, it might have been better to do it on the lathe. In this way the live center would have offered better alignment. Good fire blankets would have to be used. Also, three tacks at 120°.
@@paulcopeland9035 Sir, You are absolutely correct, this is not a high speed axle. However, stop and think about it. This part has failed at least twice in it's life. One, the original part failed and required repair. Two, the damaged shaft that Keith found needed repair. Thus, this is a least the third shaft end. This repair did not require extensive investigation such as Finite Element Analysis (FEA) or extensive non-destructive testing. I believe the intent of the comments is to share "best" practices so others can benefit. I also believe that after discovering that this is at least the third try, that there's an inherent design flaw. "Best" practices would be not only to use better repair technique, but to consider why this part keeps failing.
Nicely done Keith. How do you make the decision on when to stop the refurb and put the machine into service? Seems like it would be easy to get caught up and totally restore the thing. I was surprised when you put the new band saw into service without a total makeover. Ha ha ha. I really enjoy the channel. Keep it up!
You went over your Order Of Operations for each step. You then showed us how you solved each problem (especially the chatter). You are a great machinist AND a great teacher. Thank you.
Definitely an inspiration to get out in the shop! Not sure if you get any time to read these comments, but one word of advice - clean your MIG gun nozzle. All that spatter on the end will disrupt the gas flow giving you a less than optimal shielding gas envelope and can lead to porosity and a weak weld.
I agree. That nozzle is a horor show. YOu are correct !
Always keep it clean, agreed. A nice new tip and a nice clean nozzle is like the difference between a dull end mill and sharp end mill. A little gel dip helps as well....Ricko
So true. Just as important as keeping your machines cleaned up.
Nothing worse than a dirty tip.
I use tip dip 😊
You are a machining BOSS! Great repair - a job well done. 👍
Great watching lathe work! Most hated words, "we're all done turning.", 😥🥺😅 think lathe work (the watching part anyways) is one of the most relaxing things to watch! Great job sir!
Keith I have been watching your channel for awhile and wanted to tell you thank you for sharing. I am a hobby machinist who has learned so much from your series. You do a great job of explaining how you plan out and complete a project. Ric
I've done this kind of repair a number of times and find the concentricity to be much better when the stub is a press fit into the hole. Good job!
I wondered about this, but could a tight fit introduce additional stresses once welded (given the dissimilar steel alloys)? Speaking of stresses, would it be overkill to temper the weld with a torch before final machining? Without knowing what MIG wire Keith was using I don't know if the welded area could have become brittle and susceptible to breakage if accidentally knocked sometime in the future. Heat might also reduce the run-out perhaps, but then again I suspect you could easily end up chasing warps all over the place and ruin the leadscrew.
@@pauldorman I would think annealing the weld would be a good idea taking care to limit heat to the weld area only.
Not to critical but Abom did a repair like this once and used a thread to connect the two parts, intead of just a stub. It worked so excellent.
I was wondering why he didn't cut that for a press fit, for that reason in addition to not having to hold it. Or even go farther along those lines, bore the hole bigger and shrink it onto the new stub, could probably get away with no weld even.
I'm wondering why he did not press fit the tow pieces on the lath and optionally one dot of welding!?
Another excellent repair. Looking forward to the assembly.
Well done keith! I really enjoy watching a master at work!
Keith, that Marvel Saw is fantastic. Would love to have room for one of those in my shop. It is too bad they quit making such a good machine. Glad you are feeling better.
In my book, the ability to make a successful repair is almost greater than the ability to create a part in the first place!
Well, it's harder in a lot of cases.
glad you found a fellow machinist to consult. Good video Keith, good topic, good sound. You are a beauty
When I saw that runout after welding I was filled with trepidation. But you thought ahead and had compensated for it like a pro. In the end, all good! I like a little drama every once and a while!
Fantastic work all the way through, so much skill and ingenuity.
The end result was a good serviceable repair and that's whats important, thanks for another great video🤗😎🤗😎
Good workman job. I have stubbed a lot of shafts, would have bored that hole a bit if I could, turned part to shrink fit in or at least a hammer fit. Just makes the welding easier, as far as the welding goes, I am an old 7018 guy, but your wirefeed weld looked good. Trued up center, great. Vibration, I have had to drop rpm down into the dirt at times, high speed tools work.
Threading this is easy, any multiple of the leadscrew pitch, just engage the halfnut. Probably 4 tpi, so 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24 etc, just engage the halfnut, don't have to look at dial. Got into a job one time, 5 tpi, running on steady, extension bar to hold toolbit, carriage past point I could use chasing dial. Chalked the chuck and watched keyway in leadscrew. Got it done.
Lots of critical comments. Always critical. Thank you for all your content and time. To be fair if it were a load bearing part with lots of shear stress, this may not have been the ideal method but good enough is good enough. This will last long after those cogs get buggered up again. Cheers.
Another wonderful project. Very enjoyable to watch how you overcame some the challenges you faced. Take care.
Absolutely great job on that screw mate. Thanks for the video 👍🇦🇺
I saw something like this over on the Cutting Edge Engineering channel. To get the weld straight he put the part back in the machine and held the piece to weld on with the center of the tailstock, then tacked it in place, then finished welding on a welding rotator. Would have been nice if it would have gotten welded on straighter, but if it still works as intended there's no problem.
I was thinking about putting threads on the rod and screwing it in tight so the two faces would be force squareness.
Yeah, love Keith, but Kurtis over at CEE makes it look soo easy! To be fair Kurtis does do this professionally for a living though.
@@horsepants5848 - and Kurtis works on such diminutive things [/sarcasm]
'Grinders and paint...' as the old adage goes Keith--or in this case lathes and finishing!!!
Beautiful work and fascinating to watch as always.
Great repair on the shaft Keith Thanks
KEITH, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT JOB...
Great project, turn it all better than I thought it would. Take a look at a tip of a nozzle on your welder, you got a lot of junk buildup in there. But you got to be careful because sometimes that will get stuck in your weld. Don’t ask me how I know that.
Nice job in the end Keith.
Nice work Keith! I was worried correcting the runout might have affected the spline fit, but it looked spot on!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Good job Keith!!
Outstanding work Keith.
do It Keith, your extra time and effort will reflect in the machines perfomance for the rest of your life.
That was a awesome video... Mr.Rucker...that's pretty much what it's all about....
How I do this kind of repair is to make the register a slight interfierance fit, heat the shaft and freeze the slug and then tap the slug in and allow everything to normalise that way you can set the shaft on a pair of V blocks and true it up with a dial indicator. Then tack it up at 180 degrees to each weld at four points and check with the indicator again, if its out tack the high spot and then quench. Then to fully weld I preheat the whole thing and have the torch mounted to the bench with a clamp
Exactly.
Good job.
Nice Job Keith.. i may have threaded both ends to ensure alignment but there are a thousand ways to get the job done...
my only connection to machining is having a late uncle who was a machinist by trade, but I really enjoy your videos. thanks for making the world better. glad you're back to health. all the best to you, sir.
Good job, enjoyed your work and teaching...
A wonderfully entertaining video. Thank you, Keith.
Thanks Keith!
Outstanding Keith. this has such a calming effect for me.. I appreciate it so much.. Carry on!
I learned a couple of things there.
Thanks for sharing! Sweet repair!
Another great repair
Well done sir!
Nicely done indeed.
great work
Beautiful repair Keith!
Excellent repair great video thanks for sharing
Beautiful repair, Keith!
great fix enjoyed watching thanks
Keith please get a 120” diameter Cincinnati Hypro boring mill. That would be the most epic restoration lol
Thanks Keith
thank you Keith :) :) outstanding repair I'm happy
I so enjoy your show, it reminds me of my grandfather.
Gorgeous repair
Nice to see a good job.
Nice job Keith!!
Keith first check how far out a sample peace is before taking on the bed ways. You may find the machine well tolerance. Or maybe I missed the video that proved the need. Good luck, looking forward to seeing her running.
Been looking forward to this one! ;)
Same
Excellent job!
Nice repair!
You should go look at Cutting Edge Engineering Australia the young man has many tooling hints that could help!! I watch your and his all the time, never hurts to get a new idea, even at our older ages!
great job keith
Professional job Keith, lathe setup for the lead screw must have taken some time. Thank you
Like Kieth said, “awesome “. Thanks.
Many ways to cook a chicken. I would have bored both peices and made a long pin, and slid it on, then welded it. I would cut the spline on my shaper because its what i have, no horizontal mill. However, your flavor looks wonderful, as usual. Thank god for extra tolerance. Well Done.
Looking great 👍
Love your videos Keith!!! Looks like you could use some nozzle dip for your welder… helps cut back on spatter build up on your Mig nozzle. Also, whenever I’m welding near/on a clean machined surface, I use an anti-spatter spray, works wonders for preventing spatter from sticking to the work piece! (Especially helpful for threads) you’ve been a huge inspiration for me to get back into machining! Keep the awesome videos coming!!! Thank you!!!
Beautiful repair. Nice surprise (great minds) when you found the hole bored for a previous repair.
Hi Keith, I did not really know what your mill was used for, I just watched a UA-cam from Poole machinery. He used a horizontal boring mill, what a versatile machine, I am really looking forward to you using your mill and am now understanding what you can use it for. great repair I hope to see it working soon.
What a great video. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing. Great repair.
Fantastic job Keith 🦘👍
Nice recovery for an excellent result.
I AM INSPIRAED , THANKE
Outstanding.
Great job Keith!
You should have entered CEE's rotary ground clamp contest. That would have helped.
Good job as usual, Keith.
well done
Every time Keith says, "rinse and repeat", I start laughing because that's the instructions from shampoo bottles, and I always get a momentary image of him showering water on the work and pouring shampoo on it and lathering it up.
I'd wondered where that expression came from.
Nice. Can't wait to see it in action!
Wow Kieth very nice repair.
Nice work Keith! Don't be so harsh to yourself.
Why couldn’t you have used your tail stock to hold the piece true while you welded it? I’ve seen your large fire blanket you could have used to protect the lathe? Just thought that would have been a more precise way of keeping things in line.
Having done many of those at .010 left on the stub and .005 on the face I used my tool post grinder and walked in .came out perfect.Having said that well done.
Watching these projects is very nice my only negative point is we never see them do any projects like all the work and modification on the metal planer
fun video. HBM is my favorite machine tool.
Great video amigo!!!!
Очень толковый мастер!
Great job Keith. LOL>>I might be doing the same job one day!! Inspect the area where you grounded. I always attach the ground where High current or arcing will not hurt the part or travel through a bearing. In this case it is my opinion that closer to the end would have been better.
Very good job! 👏👏👏👍👍👍
Greetings from Dresden! 😎
Nice repair, good as new!
Great video Keith, keep'um coming.
so the cautious start down a slippery slope has triggered an avalanche? ... i've been there before
would the big monarch have taken that shaft through the spindle? kind of surprised you haven't showed that one in use by now, being one of the first machines that came in the shop
You should clean out the end of nozzle before welding. It would weld better... good looking job!!
It has the excessive wobble because the fit was too loose, you could see it move side to side when you did the test fit. It should have been an interference fit and TIG welded for better heat control. Calipers are fine for rough cuts but not for a precision fit like that should have been.
Instead of tacking the new end on the welding table, it might have been better to do it on the lathe. In this way the live center would have offered better alignment. Good fire blankets would have to be used. Also, three tacks at 120°.
It warped from welding. It's to be expected. Keith is an expert, he knows what he is doing.
It's a freakin' handle! Not a high speed axle!
@@paulcopeland9035 Sir, You are absolutely correct, this is not a high speed axle. However, stop and think about it. This part has failed at least twice in it's life. One, the original part failed and required repair. Two, the damaged shaft that Keith found needed repair. Thus, this is a least the third shaft end. This repair did not require extensive investigation such as Finite Element Analysis (FEA) or extensive non-destructive testing. I believe the intent of the comments is to share "best" practices so others can benefit. I also believe that after discovering that this is at least the third try, that there's an inherent design flaw. "Best" practices would be not only to use better repair technique, but to consider why this part keeps failing.
@@robertlevine2152 average rate of failure of once every 50 years or so…yup, better invoke the lemon law.
Another 100 years of use added!
YAY, the gameplan in bananas.....
Nicely done Keith.
How do you make the decision on when to stop the refurb and put the machine into service? Seems like it would be easy to get caught up and totally restore the thing.
I was surprised when you put the new band saw into service without a total makeover. Ha ha ha.
I really enjoy the channel. Keep it up!
Hey Keith, You always say “rinse and repeat” but I never see you rinsing…. 😇
It definitely pays to go slow and easy along with being creative to get great results.