Whenever I change oil/fluids I always use a quart or two of new as sacrificial to clean out the system before I put the plug back in and fill up. It's unbelievable how much gunk comes out when you do. Took it as advise from my grandfather when I started doing maintenance and I believe his advise has served me well.
Adam, to make it a little easier when you remove or reinstall the bottom skid plate, get a few Harbor Freight right angle welding magnets to help hold and support it in place. They have helped me from dropping that plate on my face and chest and cross threaded bolts. (Just trying to help)
Good on ya for tackling the servicing Adam! I know those frustrations all too well, but I also know the good feeling of being able to service and maintain my own equipment...it gets a bit easier every time I think...well hopefully!
Looked great. You may want to watch the video on the cab filter cover. the rear bolt opening is a slot not a hole. If left slightly loose or possibly that way from factory the rear portion slides into place and the front two are pulled. Would be fun to have a detailed maintenance manual. worth their weight in at least silver.
Thanks for another great video, Adam. I enjoy watching the maintenance of your excavator. Well, I had better run and do something today, and until next time, may God bless your days the way He always blesses ours! Donald
Hey Adam - a small tip: consider always loosening the “Fill” or “Level” plugs first, just in case one is stuck. Otherwise you end up draining the gear oil and unable to replace it. (Ask me how I know lol)
Adam, first off, great job. Doing anything for the first time is an opportunity to learn and only get better. Just speaking from experience, as a welder in a fabrication shop after being out of college for welding, the basics stick but nothing beats hands on and doing it. I am far from a pro but I am better than I was 6 months ago. In the short term, a degree gives the foundation of understanding but get you hands or mind in the job is nothing that can be taught out of a book. I have a been a subscriber for a while now and I truly appreciate your honesty in all the new things you try, do, and accomplish all the while learning as you go. Taking advice from viewers who may have dealt with the same issues, passing on information, etc. Neighbor Doug at One Eye Customs is another inspiration in that he passes on his knowledge and has the same mindset as you, help people out and pass on knowledge with a attitude of I will make mistakes but I will learn and improve as I go. Keep up the great work. 👍🏻
Just a tip, for anything that has a low drainplug and an upper fill plug that being final drives, differential or whatever. That way you dont end up having empied all the old oil and not being able to fill in the new oil, if the fill plug i stuck. Better to have old oil than no oil at all. Keep up the amazing content.
Adam I am a New Subscriber to your channel I’m from southeastern Pennsylvania, very nice property you have & great line up of equipment. Good luck & work safe!
Also another tip on final drive, we change it every 250 hrs or so. For how easy it is and the price of some oil to make sure one of the most expensive parts of the machine stays in good shape.
Something you might want to get for days when you are disassembling your equipment like this is a magnetic parts tray which is magnetic and when you put a nut or bolt onto it it does not go anywhere. Saves you a bit of time looking for small bits and is a great way to keep everything in one place. There are several shapes and sizes. I think harbor freight has a few different ones.
It looked like your new oil filter was shorter than the old one. Also, what a pain to tilt the cab, just to get to the other filter. Thanks for sharing.
Great video adam , 2 ideas i have - get a box of disposable gloves for oil changes, they are so handy and stops the skin being stained for days ! On the final drive allen head bolts which some appeared to be real tight to remove. I would put a small rub of copper grease on the treads. Ive done this for years on bolts on motorbikes. Stops any ceased or rusted bolts and so much smoother to remove them in the future when you need too.
Get yourself an oil extracater ball. You can remove the oil from the crankcase while you are changing other filters. Plus the oil is in a spill proof container. We use them on our Yanmar engines in our sail boats. Good Luck...
Wear long kitchen gloves for the oil changes. It will help your hands now & for the future, especially in the cold. Work smarter not harder. Keep the videos coming.
Great job Adam. Very satisfying when you can do your own maintenance. You saved time and money on getting your machine picked up and delivered also. Just realize when you have a drain and fill for any fluids you want to remove the fill plug FIRST to make sure you can actually fill it after you drain it. I just went through that on my Subaru transmission over the weekend and it worked out fine.
Seems like a 5 gallon bucket might make a better receptacle for draining the engine oil than those low pans. Especially if your bucket lid has a pour spout, just drop the hose in. Job done!
Just a suggestion…. Take the cap off the air filter housing, remove the rubber plug inside it and clean the dust out of it. Also…. On your “pilot” filter housing, keep an eye on that for leaks. It looks like someone used a pipe wrench on it. The housing is aluminum and are prone to crack when pipe wrenched. As for the final drive, either you have a leak or whoever did the last service forgot to fill it. When you drain it out look for metal flake in the oil. Hopefully you don’t have a lot of wear in the unit.
Good work Adam. I recently started doing my own service on my riding mower, 1025R, and now vehicles. It is very intimidating at first, but not overly complicated. I cannot agree more, you learn so much more about the condition of your machinery, preventative maintenance, etc. Great video, thanks!
Great job. Maybe if you’ve ever got it on a trailer, take it to a DIY car wash and clean all the parts where that final drive could be leaking so you can find what is most likely a leak - that gear oil must have gone somewhere.
Here’s a couple tips for you…take top allens out first than the drain…blow air in the fill to get gunk out of the drain…always look for metal in the oil…and I like to pour some new oil thru it and give another blow job to make sure it’s cleaned out well…same thing on the oil change…drain…a pint or so of new oil thru it…blow job…then fill it…don’t put belly pan on until you fire it up and check for leaks……then be very disappointed after you check oil after fire up and it’s as black as it was before you changed it!
Enjoy your ‘how to’ videos even when I don’t own the equipment. You do very well explaining each step. Question: I can’t recall seeing your cat 🐈 before. Did she/he think you were talking to her/him? 😂
Maisy is a wonderful cat…and Adam feeds her daily when she is home. But she has an independent spirit at times… She goes missing for a few days but comes home for rest, food and love. Adam found her in a ditch while 4 wheeling and rescued her. Best cat ever…
@@AdamsMom921 That’s a great “rest of the story” addition to Adam’s comment! Our cats are great company in our retirement. It goes without saying that you raised a fine son!
The good thing is that you attempted to do the service and for the most part it worked. I see Doug in your near future to assist with the outside cabin filter. Nice job Adam - stay safe.
Good Job Adam, I would imagine that Doug has provided one of the track cleaning bars, facilitating getting all the dirt and debris removed from the tracks. That bar might facilitate you keeping that suspect final drive cleaner so a leak could be spotted. Just a thought. Bet the engine and the mechanical systems are Happier. 😀
Great work on your 1000 hour mini excavator maintenance. It isngood you dis it your self. Those final drives are not cheap. Probably dave yourself about 3-4 grand if one broke. Nice work on a nice machine.
Add the Brand and Model machine you are servicing to the title of the video so people with the same machine can find your video easier. Keep up the good work.
That’s a special oil drain! You connect a quick connect fitting that the more you thread it on it will allow the oil to pass through. They usually have a nice thick hose so it makes oil changes very straightforward especially if the drain is above an axle or somewhere hard to get to!
I call a Crescent wrench an adjustable nut rounder. They are my choice of last resort. Good job on the 1,000 hour service. How often is the engine oil service interval? Thanks for the video
I’ve always said the rocket scientists who design whatever you’re working on should have to service it. I wonder if there’s a YT video out there that does show the procedure and maybe a couple tips on changing that cabin filter. Great job on this one Adam! 😊
I take my used air filters to a parts company that sends the filters out to be cleaned so they can be used a second time so i only need to replace them every other time, helps cut back on operating costs
I've owned 2 New Holland machines, mini-ex and CTL, both had those quick connects and they're great. They were both in my cab at purchase. As you purchased yours used, the coupler was probably removed prior and not put back. That seems to be a common issue at dealers.
My Mahindra 1626 tractor dealer quoted me $1000 for the 50 and 100 hour (each) for fluid and filter changes. The hydrostatic drive holds 9 gallons and warranty will void if I don't use their fluid at $300 for 10 gallons. Just waiting for my driveway to dry out to do it myself.
That was fun to watch. Im sure we didnt get to see every single step you did. When you removed the filter housings did you replace the O-rings? They get deformed and flatten out over time. After watching you do all that, now I know why the dealership would charge so much to do it!
Adam, that was a very interesting video. It's good to see that you are learning more and more every day about your equipment. Anyway, stay safe, healthy and warm. Bill H from Cranberry Township
Thanks for sharing. Let us know if you ever get to that HVAC filter. Watching this reminded me that I have to change the oil in my fiancé’s vehicle Have a day!
Glad you caught that final drive. I bought a new Kubota bx23s in 2018 and the front end was almost empty. I think reading through the manuals and getting familiar with stuff helps know your machine. Was the old filter aftermarket? I saw the new one was shorter. Also that is a stupid design on the cabin air filters but looking forward to you jacking the cab. I see you film with an iPhone, do you have a mac laptop for editing? And how do you make your awesome thumbnails? Thanks
When you ordered the oil and parts service kit, the Hyundai guy should have asked you if you had the drain tube.... Adam get a real drain oil bucket....
The best ones are the No-Spill Systems ones I believe they have the original patents on this design. Theirs is made out of all solid brass with a heavy duty green hose.
I've been changing fluids in my vehicles and equipment for 50 years and I have never NOT made a mess of it. In those super rare cases I didn't drip or spill oil anywhere I'd accidentally kick the oil pan while cleaning up to keep my record perfect. Those cabin filters are ridonkulous.
Adam the accountant, you wont find him here. just Adam the homesteader , ha! Cant believe I just watched a guy change his oil, but yup, whole thing. Thumbs up.
Adam, admit it you did some creative editing. There is no way you did all that service work without getting any more dirty that you did. If that is what $43 dollars gets you then that is money very well spent!
Man - I thought changing the light in my built in microwave was tough! (Pull it completely out, in the top/back.) Couldn’t have made the filter more difficult!! Leave it to an engineer!
5:19 you bought the machine second-hand, right? - stands to reason that the hose may have come with the machine new, and the original owner kept it / lost it / gave it away etc. (unless the owner's manual specifically said 'sold separately') Edit; 17:03 Yarp 8:46 wear some nitrile gloves, my dude! Hydraulic fluid is some gnarly stuff - not great for skin, etc...
Once you emptied out each hub, would it have been a good idea to run new oil without replacing the lower cap until the new oil runs out any old oil and contaminants?
@@HometownAcres It might be a good idea to flush them with a lighter weight oil after draining. Wait a good long time for the light weight oil to completely drain out, then fill with the correct weight oil. That would help to remove any sludge. Also check the oil with a magnet in case there are any metal fillings in the final drive. Better to find out early that there is a problem.
Hopefully there isn't much damage to that final drive, as a few have pointed out, you have to crack open or break the fill and level bolts first, nothing worse than not being able to fill the oil back up if the other bolts are seized, the other issue is to find out were the final drive oil has gone, you may have a leak. i know you have just started to do your own servicing, but i always work off servicing a secondhand machine before i use it. you have no idea if the previous owner has used the correct fluids/filters or if the service had actually been done. oils and filters are cheap compared to rebuilding a motor a final drives. same goes for greaser nipples, we use to do it every second day.
Definitely Agree it’s best to do you own service so you get to know your machine. Couple tips for the future. Get yourself a quality set of Allen head sockets. Those alley keys you’re using suck. No leverage and they typically aren’t great quality. I stripped 2 level plugs on my finals using those. Don’t go 1000hrs on final drive oil. Manufacturers recommend that to keep cost of ownership lower, not because it’s good for your finals. I have oil analysis from the time my machine was new through today, probably 10 samples over the past 6 years. I bought it at 2000hrs. Previous owner was doing the finals every 250-400hrs and the samples looked Great. Then they decided to go the recommended 1000hrs and the next sample with 1000hrs on the oil was terrible and it’s been bad ever since. High iron and chromium reflecting gear and bearing wear, High oxidation levels suggesting possible over heating. Despite two flushes and much more frequent changes since i bought it, wear levels have never returned to normal. The finals only hold $10 worth of oil, it’s worth doing it more frequently. The techs at my dealership say every 250hrs. I would check that final that was low every 50hrs for a while and make sure it’s not losing more fluid. If there’s a problem; it’s not cheap to fix so you want to get it taken care of under warranty. My manual says to check the level in the finals every 100hrs. With the air filter you typically want to put the inner safety filter in first, make sure it seats properly, then the outer filter on second.
Whenever I change oil/fluids I always use a quart or two of new as sacrificial to clean out the system before I put the plug back in and fill up. It's unbelievable how much gunk comes out when you do. Took it as advise from my grandfather when I started doing maintenance and I believe his advise has served me well.
A tip for the final drives: always break the FILL and LEVEL bolts first, so you can make sure to put stuff back in and don't get stranded.
That’s a good point. Thanks
On those final drive units, if you can't get the fill plug out, just rotate the drive and fill it through the drain.
@@paulsubong True, on this unit it would work, since the fill is exactly half, but not all units are like this
I was going to comment same thing. lol
@@HometownAcresalso get a set of Allen sockets. Those Allen keys have a tendency to strip out. Ask me how I know 🤦♂️😂
Adam, to make it a little easier when you remove or reinstall the bottom skid plate, get a few Harbor Freight right angle welding magnets to help hold and support it in place. They have helped me from dropping that plate on my face and chest and cross threaded bolts. (Just trying to help)
Good tip!
I would change the finals every 250hrs, it's cheap and easy. When we go 500hrs we get samples too dirty to analyze.
9:40 Get "pg mats" to lay down under the filters, so that they can soak up all of the spilled oil.
Nice job! Always feels so good to get a service done.
Couldn't agree more!
I have a feeling we will be seeing you (Doug) helping Adam with tilting the cab
Good on ya for tackling the servicing Adam! I know those frustrations all too well, but I also know the good feeling of being able to service and maintain my own equipment...it gets a bit easier every time I think...well hopefully!
Looked great. You may want to watch the video on the cab filter cover. the rear bolt opening is a slot not a hole. If left slightly loose or possibly that way from factory the rear portion slides into place and the front two are pulled. Would be fun to have a detailed maintenance manual. worth their weight in at least silver.
Thanks for another great video, Adam. I enjoy watching the maintenance of your excavator. Well, I had better run and do something today, and until next time, may God bless your days the way He always blesses ours! Donald
Hey Adam - a small tip: consider always loosening the “Fill” or “Level” plugs first, just in case one is stuck. Otherwise you end up draining the gear oil and unable to replace it.
(Ask me how I know lol)
Adam, first off, great job. Doing anything for the first time is an opportunity to learn and only get better. Just speaking from experience, as a welder in a fabrication shop after being out of college for welding, the basics stick but nothing beats hands on and doing it. I am far from a pro but I am better than I was 6 months ago. In the short term, a degree gives the foundation of understanding but get you hands or mind in the job is nothing that can be taught out of a book. I have a been a subscriber for a while now and I truly appreciate your honesty in all the new things you try, do, and accomplish all the while learning as you go. Taking advice from viewers who may have dealt with the same issues, passing on information, etc. Neighbor Doug at One Eye Customs is another inspiration in that he passes on his knowledge and has the same mindset as you, help people out and pass on knowledge with a attitude of I will make mistakes but I will learn and improve as I go. Keep up the great work. 👍🏻
Just a tip, for anything that has a low drainplug and an upper fill plug that being final drives, differential or whatever. That way you dont end up having empied all the old oil and not being able to fill in the new oil, if the fill plug i stuck.
Better to have old oil than no oil at all.
Keep up the amazing content.
If the plastic nut on the quick connect hose breaks: I am sure Doug could weld a washer on a same size nut for you ;)
....and then market it. :)
Adam I am a New Subscriber to your channel I’m from southeastern Pennsylvania, very nice property you have & great line up of equipment. Good luck & work safe!
Hi Robert. Welcome
Also another tip on final drive, we change it every 250 hrs or so. For how easy it is and the price of some oil to make sure one of the most expensive parts of the machine stays in good shape.
Yes my tech recommended that to me as well. I will definitely start doing that
Something you might want to get for days when you are disassembling your equipment like this is a magnetic parts tray which is magnetic and when you put a nut or bolt onto it it does not go anywhere. Saves you a bit of time looking for small bits and is a great way to keep everything in one place. There are several shapes and sizes. I think harbor freight has a few different ones.
I would 2nd this idea, they are very handy
It looked like your new oil filter was shorter than the old one. Also, what a pain to tilt the cab, just to get to the other filter.
Thanks for sharing.
Regarding the final drive the oil can not disappear with out a leak. Clean that up and see where it is leaking.
Correct, unless the last Mechanic forgot to fill it. If it was leaking, oil should be visible on the track when parked up.
Bozo probably forgot to fill it…that’s why you got to DIY…that means do it yourself!
Great video adam , 2 ideas i have - get a box of disposable gloves for oil changes, they are so handy and stops the skin being stained for days ! On the final drive allen head bolts which some appeared to be real tight to remove. I would put a small rub of copper grease on the treads. Ive done this for years on bolts on motorbikes. Stops any ceased or rusted bolts and so much smoother to remove them in the future when you need too.
Really good tutorial 👍🏾
Get yourself an oil extracater ball. You can remove the oil from the crankcase while you are changing other filters. Plus the oil is in a spill proof container. We use them on our Yanmar engines in our sail boats. Good Luck...
Maintenance is always important! Keep machines out of the weather improves longevity! Lessons wear and tear! Makes it easier to maintain.
Love to hear the peepers in the background this early. Another nice how to video ! Best wishes from Ohio.
Yep they just started 3 days ago
Wear long kitchen gloves for the oil changes. It will help your hands now & for the future, especially in the cold. Work smarter not harder. Keep the videos coming.
Great job Adam. Very satisfying when you can do your own maintenance. You saved time and money on getting your machine picked up and delivered also. Just realize when you have a drain and fill for any fluids you want to remove the fill plug FIRST to make sure you can actually fill it after you drain it. I just went through that on my Subaru transmission over the weekend and it worked out fine.
Always make sure you can fill what you drain. Fill plug, drain plug, and then level plug.
Seems like a 5 gallon bucket might make a better receptacle for draining the engine oil than those low pans. Especially if your bucket lid has a pour spout, just drop the hose in. Job done!
Just a suggestion…. Take the cap off the air filter housing, remove the rubber plug inside it and clean the dust out of it. Also…. On your “pilot” filter housing, keep an eye on that for leaks. It looks like someone used a pipe wrench on it. The housing is aluminum and are prone to crack when pipe wrenched. As for the final drive, either you have a leak or whoever did the last service forgot to fill it. When you drain it out look for metal flake in the oil. Hopefully you don’t have a lot of wear in the unit.
23:43 the rear screw for the interior cabin filter doesn’t have to be removed. The cover is slotted.
Thank you for pointing that out. You are correct
Good work Adam. I recently started doing my own service on my riding mower, 1025R, and now vehicles. It is very intimidating at first, but not overly complicated. I cannot agree more, you learn so much more about the condition of your machinery, preventative maintenance, etc. Great video, thanks!
Great job. Maybe if you’ve ever got it on a trailer, take it to a DIY car wash and clean all the parts where that final drive could be leaking so you can find what is most likely a leak - that gear oil must have gone somewhere.
Great vid Adam. Looks like you'll have to yell for neighbor Doug to help with the exterior filter!!! lol
Yeah I might have to
Here’s a couple tips for you…take top allens out first than the drain…blow air in the fill to get gunk out of the drain…always look for metal in the oil…and I like to pour some new oil thru it and give another blow job to make sure it’s cleaned out well…same thing on the oil change…drain…a pint or so of new oil thru it…blow job…then fill it…don’t put belly pan on until you fire it up and check for leaks……then be very disappointed after you check oil after fire up and it’s as black as it was before you changed it!
Saved yourself a ton of money by DIYing this! glad you wernt afraid of jumping into it head first!
Thanks for the insight. How do you like your rig.
Well Adam at least you know how to replace old stuff for new stuff except for the filter you can’t get to 😮😊❤
Enjoy your ‘how to’ videos even when I don’t own the equipment. You do very well explaining each step. Question: I can’t recall seeing your cat 🐈 before. Did she/he think you were talking to her/him? 😂
Haha yeah she is a very vocal cat. Her name is Maisy and she’s an awesome farm cat. She’s about to go on a post winter mice only diet
Maisy is a wonderful cat…and Adam feeds her daily when she is home. But she has an independent spirit at times… She goes missing for a few days but comes home for rest, food and love. Adam found her in a ditch while 4 wheeling and rescued her. Best cat ever…
@@AdamsMom921 That’s a great “rest of the story” addition to Adam’s comment! Our cats are great company in our retirement. It goes without saying that you raised a fine son!
The good thing is that you attempted to do the service and for the most part it worked. I see Doug in your near future to assist with the outside cabin filter. Nice job Adam - stay safe.
Good Job Adam, I would imagine that Doug has provided one of the track cleaning bars, facilitating getting all the dirt and debris removed from the tracks. That bar might facilitate you keeping that suspect final drive cleaner so a leak could be spotted. Just a thought. Bet the engine and the mechanical systems are Happier. 😀
Great work on your 1000 hour mini excavator maintenance. It isngood you dis it your self. Those final drives are not cheap. Probably dave yourself about 3-4 grand if one broke. Nice work on a nice machine.
12:32 Nice cameo by that spicy guy!!!
Add the Brand and Model machine you are servicing to the title of the video so people with the same machine can find your video easier. Keep up the good work.
That’s a special oil drain! You connect a quick connect fitting that the more you thread it on it will allow the oil to pass through. They usually have a nice thick hose so it makes oil changes very straightforward especially if the drain is above an axle or somewhere hard to get to!
Great video! I think you changed your filters at 970 hours (905 was your fuel filters)
Always crack loose the fill or check first, before the drain. If You get the drain open, and then strip out the fill, you're in a pickle.
I call a Crescent wrench an adjustable nut rounder. They are my choice of last resort. Good job on the 1,000 hour service. How often is the engine oil service interval?
Thanks for the video
250 hours
Good job !
So nice without any music, just the work. 👍
I’ve always said the rocket scientists who design whatever you’re working on should have to service it. I wonder if there’s a YT video out there that does show the procedure and maybe a couple tips on changing that cabin filter. Great job on this one Adam! 😊
Yes!! Applies to all kinds of products, software, tools, etc. 👍
That oil plug looks just like the Valvomax system I use on my car and truck.
Nice saving your services will only get cheaper once you buy the lubricants in larger containers.
I take my used air filters to a parts company that sends the filters out to be cleaned so they can be used a second time so i only need to replace them every other time, helps cut back on operating costs
Adam, glad you are not mad anymore. Give it some time and you will get there. I'm 50 and pretty much mad all the time.
Hahaha
I've owned 2 New Holland machines, mini-ex and CTL, both had those quick connects and they're great. They were both in my cab at purchase. As you purchased yours used, the coupler was probably removed prior and not put back. That seems to be a common issue at dealers.
Great Video, with your video a few years back I was able to complete my 50 hour service on my Kioti 35hp myself.
I think you got lucky on this 1, being your first service. I was hoping your fill and full plugs both came out, since you already drained it..
I agree with you Adam that hose should have been included and had its own location to keep it in.
Have a great rest of the week Adam,take care and God Bless!!!❤😊
My Mahindra 1626 tractor dealer quoted me $1000 for the 50 and 100 hour (each) for fluid and filter changes.
The hydrostatic drive holds 9 gallons and warranty will void if I don't use their fluid at $300 for 10 gallons. Just waiting for my driveway to dry out to do it myself.
That was fun to watch. Im sure we didnt get to see every single step you did. When you removed the filter housings did you replace the O-rings? They get deformed and flatten out over time.
After watching you do all that, now I know why the dealership would charge so much to do it!
Hi Adam, you did a great job
Hey, thanks
Wolf’s Head final drive oil……born in Oil City, PA. Near Drake Well where the oil boom all started.
23:36 The back bolt hole is notched out so you do not need to remove the bolt all of the way. Just loosen it up and slide it out.
Nice vid Adam.
That finial drive leak could have been costly.
Adam, that was a very interesting video. It's good to see that you are learning more and more every day about your equipment. Anyway, stay safe, healthy and warm. Bill H from Cranberry Township
Lotsa room to work up under there
If you are able, it is always better to do it yourself. Great job!
Well said! I figure I can break it just as good as someone else. Key here is your not paying them.
Well, what's the point of that 😄😄😄 This looks like it was a difficult service to perform!! Good job sticking with it!! God bless y'all!! 👍 🙏♥️
Thanks for sharing. Let us know if you ever get to that HVAC filter.
Watching this reminded me that I have to change the oil in my fiancé’s vehicle
Have a day!
Instead of Better call Saul, you better call Neighbor Doug!!!!
Do you know where the data link plug is located to connect to the diagnostic computer?
There’s always a surprise on equipment maintenance. Lol have fun
Nice product placement at 13:58 :)
Glad you caught that final drive. I bought a new Kubota bx23s in 2018 and the front end was almost empty. I think reading through the manuals and getting familiar with stuff helps know your machine.
Was the old filter aftermarket? I saw the new one was shorter.
Also that is a stupid design on the cabin air filters but looking forward to you jacking the cab.
I see you film with an iPhone, do you have a mac laptop for editing? And how do you make your awesome thumbnails?
Thanks
Nice work! Is that a Sany I see??
Should always open the fill first. Drain it first and then can’t open the fill, you’re in trouble!!!
Will also drain easier with the fill open.
When you ordered the oil and parts service kit, the Hyundai guy should have asked you if you had the drain tube....
Adam get a real drain oil bucket....
Yeah why not a short 5-gallon bucket?
The best ones are the No-Spill Systems ones I believe they have the original patents on this design. Theirs is made out of all solid brass with a heavy duty green hose.
I've been changing fluids in my vehicles and equipment for 50 years and I have never NOT made a mess of it. In those super rare cases I didn't drip or spill oil anywhere I'd accidentally kick the oil pan while cleaning up to keep my record perfect. Those cabin filters are ridonkulous.
Haha this made me laugh
Adam the accountant, you wont find him here. just Adam the homesteader , ha! Cant believe I just watched a guy change his oil, but yup, whole thing. Thumbs up.
Thanks buddy
Use a five gallon bucket next time, it’s just easier.
Lesson learned - never buy a machine that requires tilting the whole cab to routinely swap a cabin air filter.
Adam, admit it you did some creative editing. There is no way you did all that service work without getting any more dirty that you did. If that is what $43 dollars gets you then that is money very well spent!
Just wear gloves instead of getting gear oil on your hand lol
Good job. My dad's a CPA and I think he knows that there's oil in his lawn mower. I don't ask anymore. He has "a guy".
Should have stuck with Baldwin filter
Man - I thought changing the light in my built in microwave was tough! (Pull it completely out, in the top/back.) Couldn’t have made the filter more difficult!! Leave it to an engineer!
check for leaky seal or seals, somewhere on the final drive ?????
Not bad for an accountant…😂
Good video Adam, cheers
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, you installed the Cap from the Air Filter wrong, you need to rotate it down so the Dust can seperate out of the Housing
I fixed it by the time I wrote the hours on it cap. Go back and watch again
5:19 you bought the machine second-hand, right? - stands to reason that the hose may have come with the machine new, and the original owner kept it / lost it / gave it away etc. (unless the owner's manual specifically said 'sold separately') Edit; 17:03 Yarp
8:46 wear some nitrile gloves, my dude! Hydraulic fluid is some gnarly stuff - not great for skin, etc...
Why is the new filter shorter?
GET THE DRAIN HOSE!!!
Most important maintenance you can do definitely will be your final drive oil! 😅
Once you emptied out each hub, would it have been a good idea to run new oil without replacing the lower cap until the new oil runs out any old oil and contaminants?
I’ll probably drain them again and refill in 10-20 hours
@@HometownAcres It might be a good idea to flush them with a lighter weight oil after draining. Wait a good long time for the light weight oil to completely drain out, then fill with the correct weight oil. That would help to remove any sludge. Also check the oil with a magnet in case there are any metal fillings in the final drive. Better to find out early that there is a problem.
You could probably use a 5 gallon bucket to drain the oil.
Hopefully there isn't much damage to that final drive, as a few have pointed out, you have to crack open or break the fill and level bolts first, nothing worse than not being able to fill the oil back up if the other bolts are seized, the other issue is to find out were the final drive oil has gone, you may have a leak. i know you have just started to do your own servicing, but i always work off servicing a secondhand machine before i use it. you have no idea if the previous owner has used the correct fluids/filters or if the service had actually been done. oils and filters are cheap compared to rebuilding a motor a final drives. same goes for greaser nipples, we use to do it every second day.
Engine has breather don't have to loosen oil cap or dip stick
Definitely Agree it’s best to do you own service so you get to know your machine. Couple tips for the future. Get yourself a quality set of Allen head sockets. Those alley keys you’re using suck. No leverage and they typically aren’t great quality. I stripped 2 level plugs on my finals using those.
Don’t go 1000hrs on final drive oil. Manufacturers recommend that to keep cost of ownership lower, not because it’s good for your finals. I have oil analysis from the time my machine was new through today, probably 10 samples over the past 6 years. I bought it at 2000hrs. Previous owner was doing the finals every 250-400hrs and the samples looked Great. Then they decided to go the recommended 1000hrs and the next sample with 1000hrs on the oil was terrible and it’s been bad ever since. High iron and chromium reflecting gear and bearing wear, High oxidation levels suggesting possible over heating. Despite two flushes and much more frequent changes since i bought it, wear levels have never returned to normal. The finals only hold $10 worth of oil, it’s worth doing it more frequently. The techs at my dealership say every 250hrs. I would check that final that was low every 50hrs for a while and make sure it’s not losing more fluid. If there’s a problem; it’s not cheap to fix so you want to get it taken care of under warranty. My manual says to check the level in the finals every 100hrs.
With the air filter you typically want to put the inner safety filter in first, make sure it seats properly, then the outer filter on second.
Yeah my tech said to change the finals every time you do an oil change so every 250 hours. The oil is cheap. The finals are not