How to Service your Saab 9-3, 9-5 or 9-4x Haldex XWD System
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Welcome to the Channel! In today's episode I go through how to service your XWD Saabs Haldex system. I use the eSaabParts Kit for this since it has the correct fluids for Saab. I go through the full process of draining and filling the fluids in the differential section, haldex clutch section and the transfer case. I also go through all of the tools, tips and tricks I use to make the process easier.
The vehicles this covers include Saab 9-3, Saab 9-5, Saab 9-4x, Buick LaCrosse, Buick Regal, Cadillac SRX, Cadillac XTS, and any other GM Haldex AWD system. Make sure to get the correct fluids for your application. The fluids below are correct for Saab Applications.
Tightening Torques:
Differential to Body: 90Nm (66.3 lbf ft) + 90* + 15*
Differential Side Cover: 5.7Nm (4.2 lbf ft)
Tools Needed:
3/8" Ratchet (Differential Gear Oil Drain/Fill Plugs)
8MM Hex (Fill Plug for Haldex Fluid)
4MM Hex (Haldex Filter/Side Plate Bolts - 10)
Short Ratcheting 4MM Hex (for above)
18MM Socket (Bolts Holding Haldex Diff Up - 4)
Shortened 8MM Hex (Transfer Case)
Fluid Pump - Attaches to Bottle
XWD Fluids: www.esaabparts...
WIS: saabworld.net/s...
Thank you for viewing my video! There will be more to come.
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This video is to be a guide to help people see how to work on their Saab. If you want to see the exact factory directions please look at the Saab Workshop Information System referenced above (WIS). That will give you the exact factory Saab tech guide to working on your Saab. This method incorporates tricks learned from years of working on Saabs. If you have any questions please let me know. This channel is not liable for any injury or death that may occur from someone working on their car. Thank you!
Danke. Du bist der erste der das richtig zeigt
Great video!!! One thing that need to be done between the services is to drive the car like you stole it sometimes. It keeps the rear diff working and the pump going. Between the last two XWD services done on the TurboX I could see a great improvement. Before the next last one I had some sludge in the Haldex unit, but not this time :) Some hard accelerations from 0-60 every now and then seemed to have a positive effect, well maybe not on the fuel comsumption.. ;-)
The hard accelerations have a positive effect on the driver for sure! Love the turbo's progressively harder pull on 2.0 and 2.8 Saabs! Very addictive.
Think the pump used is called a pelican pump. Interesting vid as always.
Good call, I wasn't sure what it was called and the package just said "fluid transfer pump". Thanks for watching!
Have the XWD service on both my 9-5 and the 9-4x, very easy process. And made the same process to use the breather tube to put the Haldex oil when it poured out through the level/fill plug. Took it for a drive and no message that it needs service, thanks :)
But want to point out that on the 9-4x the fill and drains were 3/8” exactly like the differential and not the allen 8
Forgot to mention that I meant that the transfer case on the 9-4x are 3/8”s both drain and fill 😆
Dropping the back of the exhaust would really improve the process! Thanks for pointing out where each fluid goes! Now, I need to do it. it’s got to be easier than corroded wheel bearings, I’ve changed 3 of those, and one more to go!😜
If anyone feels like the haldexfilter small bolts are hard to reach, you can easily loosen the nearest xwd axel down and it'll come down even more, then you can easily reach them all.
Also, take several "laps" in a weird x pattern to tighten the bolts, one lap to mane to make sure all are tightened, first time I did this I ended up with a leak and had to redo it with a new gasket.
I purchased this cool little ratchet that is low profile. after giving up on the first try, since my small 1/4" ratchet wouldn't squeeze in there, and I broke the ratchet mechanism, this should fit right in there! you mentioned "easily loosen the nearest xwd axel down"., to easily access the small cover bolts, Please explain.
@@doug900S think he means the long drive shaft (propeller shaft?) which goes from engine back to haldex. Loosen the last bracket will lower the haldex in the front even more.
Thanks, Dr. Saab....! Since they are not making them any longer, I would love to get 200K miles on my 2010 9-3 XWD before I move on with my life, and get a Subaru...
I appreciate the insights and suggestions....!
ditto!!!
The doctor of saab's.... Great
Excellent job, helped me a lot!! Thank you
Great video. Going in my list of DIY's. Thanks for making it look easy.
the rear differential looks so much easier to get to on the NG9-5
Great information and informative video. Instant subscribe. I'm about to get a 2008 93 aero xwd. And I am nervous about the awd system. The good news is the car has 65km being in canada. Some minor rust but nothing too bad for here especially. I'll keep watching for more vids
thanks!!!!! maybe my new diff will survive after this video!
How much differential oil do you have left? I have 300ml left
Insted of taking it for a drive, you could/should run it on the jacks. Time saving aswell
I just noticed this comment, running it on the stands won't necessarily run it long enough to see if it errors. It can take up to 40 miles before it throws a code.
Hi. I'm just in the middle of doing this job. I was to clean the little filter on the pump. But the parts in the pump fell out before I could see what way the parts were going back together. Does there exist a drawing or something on how it goes back together?
The oil for the haldex pump is called clutch differential right? I’m Italian and I’m trying to understand because I have to do the service on my turbo x soon lol
Makin it look EZ!
And what about the transmission fluid change on manual gearbox? How to change it?
So you actually fill to overflow in the haldex as well? I got the recommendation to just do a partial oilchange once a year through the filling hole, using a siphon, and add the same amount I got out. Then filter/gasket every second year. But no amount were given when refilling. But it is to overflow then? Thanks
Will a normal 8mm L-hex fit on the fill plug for the transfer case on a 9-3X ?
Cadillac SRX. Has the same haldex set up
so does the XTS
thanks! yesterday made rear maintenance. 2 times i tighten 10 bolts. there were a leak every time when i umped oil. also car was under the angle. and i filled up Acdelco fluid around 600ml. is it enough or to much? sorry for my English. for oil where was cover i filled up around 350 i think. is it also enough? and it took around 6-7 hours! to take out these 10 small bolts was real pain for my hands
Thanks for the video! What is the song that starts at 12:10 ? Also can you provide some advice on my rear diff. by DM? Thanks man!
Great video. Thanks! I got a warning service awd and service rear axe. Could that be related?
Hi Great video. I started mine in line with your vid but cant get the centre bolt on the haldex case out. It seems rounded off which probably explains why its not been off before. Any tips or tricks help remove that resessed bolt please, cars been off the road two days now.......Cheers mark
Again thanks for this video finally got my service kit from esaabparts going to be changing the fluid asap. Jjst wondering if you know of any preventative maintenance ideas for the driveshaft as mine was replaced last year and id like to not have to replace it again.
Joe thx!
My TurboX is at 95000 miles and as far as I know this service has never been done. How difficult is it to break the bolts loose the first time around?
Live your videos! 👍
not hard at all on mine. All bolts were easy to take off
Be careful dropping rearend. I did it and it stretch/loosened hanger bearing. Now drive shaft shakes like crazy
I got my XWD serviced at a SAAB shop a few months ago and once in a while the Service XWD light comes on (it came on a total of 3 times in the last 3 months). I'm guessing a top-off of the Haldex fluid is needed here?
likely not full enough , I added plenty to mine when i did them all. They should know which one(s) are low using a Tech 2
@@lewisgaskelljr235 yea I took it back to that shop a few weeks ago and they need to burp the system.
Great Vid!
How do you clean the pump's screen if the dirt is on the inside.
Thank you sir!
Hi Joe,
I got an estimate from the shop closest to me that does this service, and the labor was priced at $419, bringing the total for the service to nearly $730. You mentioned it took about 2 hours, so that makes me think I'd be overcharged. What do you think? I'm only 23, a full time student, work up to 45 hours a week, and don't have the facilities to do the job myself, so I really don't want to overpay. However if you think their price is reasonable, I will gladly take your word for it.
Thanks,
Kieran
Kind of a long shot considering the age of this video, but I'm looking to do this service to my 93x. I noticed that some of the fluids are slightly different when you find this kit for the 93 vs the 95 on esaabparts. Would you still recommend the fluids used in this video or the slightly different looking fluids in the suggested 93 kit for me?
The kit on esaabparts.com is fine since they do a good job finding equivalents. Personally I recommend OE fluids if you can find them.
@@SaabDr thanks for the insight!
Spider @9:04!!!
I was actually wondering who was going to make the first comment about that. I noticed it while editing -- obviously couldn't see it while filming since it was on the bottom of the jack.
Great video Joe - will the haldex error go by itself once you do a final top-up or do you have to reset it using MDI ?
The error will go away by itself as long as there isn't another issue. If the error keeps coming back after topping it up (once or twice) find someone with an MDI that can pull the codes.
Also, thank you!
i love how eSaabParts sells this kit w/o the 10 screws that WILL strip but conveniently sells them for $6 each -LOL+SMFH!!!!!
I've never stripped any screws. And unfortunately they're tied by Orio for prices on OE parts -- I'm sure that the screws aren't a high volume item, which drives up the price
@@SaabDr Thanks to McMaster
@@marsdahustler yup, they've saved me during some projects. Without them I would have spent hundreds more on my ML55 for bolts and whatnot.
How often do you recommend you change each of those fluids.
Personally I do every 15k.
Great video Joe! Also, it would be nice to know if any ALTERNATIVE fluids out there as Saab / GM fluids are difficult to get already. DEXTRON LS 75W90 synthetic for diff?
eSaabParts has the correct kit for the job and it's easy to get -- plus they're starting to ship international (if you're not in the US). Having the correct fluids is imperative.
@@SaabDr It looks like 140$ is not much but every 15000-20000 km it is. If Saab gasket kit is understandable but mysterious 1L liquid irritate me very much as Volvo is using transmission oil for same handex-4 eLSD clutch which 4 times cheaper. Where to find this compatible liquid, this is the question? :) IMHO: It is another reason of why some Saab's owners are giving up - way too expensive to use original only parts.
Great video! Is it possible to avoid dropping down the whole rear block of diff+eLSD to get out clutch cover? I know it is difficult but my car is scary rusty and I am afraid that I will not be able to bring it back in one piece. :(
Fortunately the differential case is aluminum so it shouldn't be rusted. I don't believe there is a way to get the clutch cover off without dropping unless you have a 9-4x.
Hey Joe thanks for the video! I’m wondering if you have ever heard of someone breaking their driveshaft? I have a 2010 Saab 9-3 xwd. I can explain what happened but I took it in and that is what the mechanic told me. Never heard of this happening when not doing a burnout or something stupid. Thanks in advance!
I have seen issues with XWD propshafts. I think we were talking about this in one of the groups the other day.
Saab Dr yeah I posted it on a Facebook group so you probably saw it
Was hoping to see some 9-7x content rip
It's on its way. I have a ton of 9-7x editing to do -- there's about 300gb of video I need to sift through and make a couple videos on. Please be a little patient with me on that - it'll be worth it.
So the AC-delco oil i basically an LS diff oil. I have an 2014 Opel Insignia which has the same system and i'm going to do this job this summer.
I have access to the whole variety of Castrol, Motul, Mobil1 and MPM oils and it's really strange that i have to buy this oil for 4 times the price i get it for. I don't know what additives there is in this oil so i don't want to put anything in it that can damage the diff.
The gear oil isn't the one that you need to be oddly specific on since you're right it is just LS Diff oil. It's the haldex fluid thats the one you need to be careful on. Personally I only run the OE fluids in these systems and that's I recommend.
@@SaabDr Yes i know. I already have bought the haldex oil so that's no problem. I know the difference and i want to replace the diff oil as well. If i search up my car on MPM's page the rear diff oil is listed as OEM only. Which i find strange since it's just a rear diff oil with LS additives. I suppose this i what the producers do so you don't dear to buy anything else.
Question: if I don’t have either an MDI or Tech2, will I need to drive the car for a few miles and then top it off?
I have a 2 pose lift which means I could take off the exhaust to have a good access to the cover as far as I’ve seen, does it mean that I won’t need to loose the bolts holding the differential either?
Driving an ng9-5 2011
?? :)
Alright so after 383km without issues I got the infamous "Service XWD" warning on the SID. The only thing is I'm 2h away from home so I can't do it right now... Do I risk damaging something if I keep driving?
Also which fluid am I supposed to top off ? Only the diff clutch's or all three ?
It's the diff clutch fluid. There is most likely air trapped in your system and you will need to burp it . You can drive it but your XWD will be disabled. Don't drive for too long just to not overheat the clutches. But you already got fluid in it so I say drive back home and immediately top off the Haldex fluid.
@@canadiansaabfreak6530 yeah I topped it off, it's fine now
Hi I have a vauxhall insignia vxr with the same haldex system what will happen if you put to much flouid in the breather and do you have to plug a scanner in the obd port afterwards or is the only if a error cums up on dash ?
Hi mate. I just tried and failed doing the haldex on my siggy vxr. Needed to drop the rear exhaust so one of the long diff bolts could come out. Couldn't be bothered taking the bumper off to remove rear exhaust brackets. How did you go with your service?
I had my local Saab mechanic swap the fluids, gasket, and filter on my Turbo X when they replaced the diff hydraulic pump (I was getting a "Service XWD" message on the SID and error C0407 64 from my tech 2 and had an obvious leak coming from the old hydraulic pump). When driving home from the mechanic immediately after, I still received the "Service XWD" message on my SID and still got the C0407 64 in my tech 2. I cleared the fault code and drove the car again, but the "Service XWD" message came back within about a mile of driving and C0407 64 was back when I checked again with my tech 2 after that drive. You mention that the car will still "error out" if low on Haldex fluid (which is what I suspect is the case now). Is this the error you're referring to or do you suspect I have a bigger issue that the fluid, gasket, and pump swap didn't address? Also, when you mention the Haldex fluid, I'm assuming you mean the oil for the diff clutch and not the LS gear oil or the transfer case oil, correct? Thanks so much!
That's where I'd start off with that error. A lot of the time people don't fill them all of the way and they error out. And yes, the Haldex fluid the fluid on the clutch side, not the LS Gear Oil. I will say this from experience with my 9-4x -- I replaced the pump on that one with a code (can't remember which exactly) and it ended up needing a new diff.
@@SaabDr That's what it looks like I might have to do, unfortunately. I topped off the clutch oil through the level plug rather than the breather since it had already been filled by the mechanic and the Saab WIS says to fill through the level plug hole when servicing. I started the car after doing this and as soon as the diff clutch pump started up, clutch oil started pouring down from the top side of the diff (it was pouring down from above where the diff gear fill and drain plugs are rather than over by the clutch itself. It eventually stopped and didn't seem to be leaking anymore after that initial leak. That said, the leak was worse when I heard the pump kick on and would slow when the pump shut off. I topped it off through the level plug again to see if it would leak again, started the car, and the clutch oil started pouring down from the top again (same location). I can't see where it's leaking from since it's coming from above the diff and I don't have an inspection camera to stick up there. I cleared the DTC with the tech 2, drove it, and the "Service XWD" came back after about 4 miles so I'm pretty certain that leak is what's causing the C0407 64 code. I'll be taking it back to the mechanic next week to see if they can find the leak since I can't. Do you have any immediate suggestions/ideas about what might be causing the leak based on the location? Thanks again!
@@CPDrummer515 is it coming from the top of the filter housing? (side cover) -- There's a chance that it's not torqued down enough.
This rearend looks exactly like my 2011 buick lacrosse. Is it? And if so can I get the exact same fluid types for the clutch area? I cant seem to find it and no auto shop has a dam clue. The link for fluids u posted doesnt say it's for buick
It is the same rear diff. This one came out of an XTS.
So technically we should be able to use Buick fluids which are probably cheaper anyway ?
@@timrtfx the Saab spec fluid is different than the GM spec because it's an older spec fluid. I stick with what was originally recommended for the application.
@@SaabDr well at this point it's pretty much like Dexos replacing the GM-LL-A-025 spec for engine oil, but anyways I'm not gonna argue on that, I don't think it's worth the risk especially since XWD parts are extremely expensive.
Hi mate is there a torque spec for the rear diff bolts?
Read something about 14 Nm
By the way just a little tip I found out while doing this, when you fill the Haldex reservoir from the breather nipple you can remove the fill port so that air has somewhere to escape, it makes it a lot less messy and you'll waste less fluid.
One thing you want to do is fill it past the top of the fill port though. You can fill it through the fill port then top it with the breather.
@@SaabDr what I did was fill it through the fill port and then through the breather nipple until it flowed back through the fill port. Then I drove back home (~50km) and did some pulls to make sure everything was correct, no errors yet. Am I good ? Sorry if I'm commenting a lot on this video, it's the first time I'm doing this service and I can't seem to find any detailed information elsewhere.
@@timrtfx it's cool. With a 9-3 you may need to drive it a bit more. I know that the NG 9-5 and 9-4x are much more sensitive to low fluid.
@@SaabDr good to know, thanks. If I ever get an error message, will it mean that damage will already be done or just that I need to top it off ?
@@timrtfx if it errors out it disengages haldex to prevent damage. Top it off and send it on its way.
Hoping to be able to do this on a future purchase?? :-)
Dude... the old cracked diff...Dang! What led to that? Neutral drops??
I know it is the reason you got the car, but what is the prevention in case we buy one?
I'm pretty sure that crack was from a shop that worked on it not putting gear oil in the differential and just refilling the haldex side. I still need to take it apart and see what the exact failure point was.
@@SaabDr Hope so. Although I would love to find one cheap with that same issue, as long as it is preventable in the future. :-)
Thanks for the reply!
Will you do serpentine belt change video?
tnx for the video! someone want my v6 XWD ? xD
Your refill procedure is incorrect. The top vent is also considered the fill port. WIS states that 350ml should pumped in through the top nipple. This allows for the oil to flow into the pump. Once 350ml has been put into the unit the vehicle should be started and run for 60 seconds. Finally, the fill plug is used to top off the oil. Total oil used should be approx 0.5l.
It's not by the book, but I wouldn't call it incorrect. It works, and has worked for many people on many cars. If you think for a second that any tech at the dealership is measuring out 350ml... Lol They aren't.
@@SaabDrWhen filled from the top nipple, the oil can flow through the channels into the pump. Run the engine to pressurise the system and fill the pump with oil and then use the fill plug to 'top off'. This allows for the correct amoint of oil because you now have a pump full of oil.
I'm not going to disagree with your point about dealers. It is exactly why I do everyrhing myself. I know it is done correctly.
Anyhow, let's not bicker and argue but concentrate on keeping our Saabs on the road.
@@hermit9283 I have to agree with you. let it flow to where it goes, and WIS does recommend this. Actually less work this way. Keep Saabing!
Smooth job, sir! Nice walk-through. I got a problem that I would like to pull your brains on. My drive shaft makes a hissing type of sound when rotating. Sounds like the bearing closest to the Haldex unit is on its way out. Have a look at this vid (ua-cam.com/video/mAgnmHjFOKg/v-deo.html). Would appreciate your opinion. Curious to know if this part is serviceable or if should get an entire new drive shaft ordered. Perhaps it's safe to ignore?
Here's a vid when I serviced my haldex unit - ua-cam.com/video/RS5RYanJhkY/v-deo.html. My mechanic dropped the exhaust as well as the drive shaft and angled down the Haldex unit to make it easier to service.
First off that bearing is part of the driveshaft and that means the whole driveshaft would need to be replaced. As for removing the exhaust and driveshaft I prefer to not remove things that may break while doing maintenance. Living in an area with lots of rust and whatnot removing the exhaust could cost quite a bit and the last time I removed a driveshaft it took some figuring out to get the cup back on. I'm not saying it's not a good idea, I'm just saying when you're servicing it as often as you should with this it's easier to just leave that all in tact. Thanks for watching!
I'm doing this right now. Worst fucking job ever.
It's 10 lbs of stuff in a 5 lb bag, especially on the 9-3.
@@SaabDr do you have an advice to reconnect the breather hose ? I can't put it back in more than halfway
@@timrtfx normally slides on and off easy for me. Make sure that the hose isn't caught on something
@@SaabDr alright will do, thanks. Nothing worst than working on a car while living in the rust belt I'm telling you.
@@timrtfx trust me, I feel that pain.
Get rid of that annoying music!!!!!
No.