I first learned to sharpen from my father-in-law. He began his apprenticeship at the age of 14, in Germany, just after the war. He used the same hollow ground method. The hollow grind makes it so easy to feel your sharpening angle on the flat stones. Later, mostly through UA-cam, I was convinced to grind the primary bevel flat. It seemed more difficult to me to feel that sharpening angle on the flat stones, plus, once you do find that primary angle, then you raise it up a couple of degrees to create a secondary bevel. When you pick your iron up off the stone, and set it back down, or switch to another stone, you will never feel that secondary bevel. You are only ever guessing at it. With a hollow grind there is no secondary bevel to guess at. Because I switched to grinding my bevels flat, I've struggled for years to improve my sharpening. You've convinced me to try going back to hollow grind. Thank you.
I guess part of the reason I quit doing the hollow grind was that I didn't have a bench grinder wheel in a small enough diameter. At that time I only had an 8 or 10 inch diameter wheel. The wheel my father-in-law used was probably about 4 inches (I'm sure it probably started out as a 6 inch, but after many years of use it was down to 4 inches. Lol). It looks like your grinding wheel is 6 inch diameter. I think the diameter is key.
I have to say I’m very impressed with these results, I have never seen sharpening done this way in my 45 years of being a joiner, I’m certainly going to give it a go thank you for your professionalism it’s certainly appreciated
Sorry, but this is as old as the hills. I wrote an article on it 15 years ago. Harrelson Stanley put out a video "Side Sharpening" before this - just Google.
Thank you! Really appreciate this video. There are indeed many ways to sharpen but this ways shown is clear and simple. It is also easy to adapt to taste and equipment on hand.
As you say, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are people. Still, for those of us who are still learning, getting to know of different methods might help us finding what is comfortable for us, so thanks for sharing. And a great video as always, greetings from Argentina!
@@KarinaZagorska you get a weaker edge because the scratch pattern is parallel with the edge as opposed to perpendicular with it. Honing guides give a better result faster and easier. There's no rational argument against using one. The guy making this video uses an angled tool rest. Why doesn't he just hold the tool freehand to the grind wheel? Because that'd be crappy, that's why. You can extend the same rationale to honing. It's all about consistent repeatable results.
Martin It is not about sharpening the knife but showing the patch over went well. The other thing is that you do not get to use mission Vallejo for a last name or its entirely standings of a culture for use to make you think you have ability to connect yourself. So as we said before you better find some other scam as you are not scamming these outlets anymore martin betelli aka rat And do not place your biddies or circus using pur name or myself and say he has gracefully passed how much media did it cost you justice is just over the horizon.as the only thing here that is retired is you and you mainstream crap Happy retirement either way you are on permanent retirement AFFA angels never die nffn HMS sonny
I'd often wondered about sharpening like this and as I'd never seen anyone doing it assumed there was some deep hidden reason why. Seems my assumption was completely wrong! Since my skill at sharpenning seems to be turning a blunt chisel into a blunter one I've got nothing to lose giving this a go. Many thanks for opening my eyes (yet again) 😉👍
Thank you Stavros. I have been using a similar procedure for over twenty five years. The difference is that I use a piece of red granite with wet/dry sandpaper up to 15000. People who visit my shop say that my tools are terrifyingly sharp. I also have multiple blades for my primary plains so that all I have to do is change it during a job. I then get them all together to sharpen. I can do a bunch at once which saves time because I only get the sharpening equipment out occasionally. Excellent work as I have grown to expect. Please show a couple of failures so that we don’t put you on to high a pedestal. 😉Happy new year and greetings from the high plains of Texas.
thanks for posting this! this has been a game changer for me in my shop. I don't think any one sharpening method is "better" than others, but finding one that works for one's own self is really important, and this works for me!
A friend who was also my Chargehand said that every trade has its skills that you learn from experience. Sometimes the guys you are working with as an apprentice don’t tell you everything, But with one exception, Window cleaning, and you can see through that straight away. 😀😀.
Great video and I think you really simplify the process. Interesting use of the eraser, without lubricant makes a lot is sense. The sideway approach is obvious to maintaining the bevel angle. Keep up the videos they are great.
No kidding, Stavros-I was getting ready to ask you to do a video on your sharpening method! Thanks for reading my mind. Haha Seriously, thanks so much for showing us your techniques. I’m going to start using them asap. You’re The Best, Stavros!
Trend sell a sharpening jig that sharpens sideways. I was stupid enough to buy one. It was the worst tool I have ever purchased. I couldn’t sell it on eBay, because I didn’t want anyone else to waste their money on it so I chucked it in the scrap bin at the local tip. But this is a totally different thing altogether this is experience and practice. Beautiful work.
I am really enjoying your videos. This is what a true craftsman looks like. Not relying on thousands of dollars worth of Festool nonsense. (A monkey should be able to do nice work with a shop full of Festool crap.) but here is a real craftsman with real understanding of the work and the tools.
I've been using traditional back and forth rough sharpening followed by sideways honing because I figured a deep sideways scratch could destroy the edge. I recently picked up a decent 2nd hand Tormek so now I sharpen and wheel strop on the Tormek, then lightly sideways hone and strop... it's very quick and very effective 😀. I always had similar concerns as others that sideways is wrong, but it works for me and gives good results so err... enough said!
@@StavrosGakos Understood, the curved surface makes it so you don't have to sharpen the whole surface. You only end up sharpening where you use it. A better spin on the micro bevel concept. I love your work. Very inspiring! Thanks
Nice demo. thanks. I too like sideways strokes on plane irons and chisels. I find it much easier to stay flat on the bevel. Also agree that a clean apex is much more important than a polished bevel. You can get hair cutting sharp from a #300 if you can completely remove the burr.
This is pretty similar to a method I started using last year, and I love the results. Obtaining a hollow grind on a wheel makes maintaining the same angle on the flat stones so much easier, and you only have to hone a little bit of the bevel. Honing parallel to the cutting edge is so much easier than pushing the blade as one would when cutting wood. Another tip I can offer is to make a strop out of wood. Plane the piece very flat, then charge it with stropping compound. Since it is flat and relatively hard, there's no chance of rounding over the edge, plus it's free and easy. It works on end grain or long grain, and it's easy to make curved strops for gouges.
Excellent video! I was just attempting to explain this method of sharpening to a young coworker and your video came along at the perfect time. Like many woodworkers, I purchased those honing guides because I thought I needed them. It wasn't until I learned to free hand sharpen that I learned how much easier it was than using a jig.
Oglądam Twoje filmy od jakiegoś czasu i podziwiam z jaką precyzją, spokojem i kreatywnością tworzysz i naprawiasz narzędzia. Sam chciałbym zacząć swoją przygodę z drewnem. Teraz pracuję we Francji i tam mam możliwość zdobywać na ryneczkach staroci narzędzia do tego potrzebne. Już trochę tego mam i Twój kanał na pewno bardzo mi pomoże w przywróceniu ich do dawnej świetności. Na pewno będę się starał dojść do takiego poziomu precyzji jaki prezentujesz nam na swoich filmach. Serdecznie pozdrawiam i z niecierpliwością czekam na kolejne upload-y
Finally someone who sharpens the correct way! Think of how small stones used 100. Years ago where... Because they used this technique... Its accurate dont need a guide, and you dont need a larger stone... I have an arkansas stone thats 2x3 inches thats more than enough.... You don't need $1000 worth of sharpening tools just a few inexpensive tools . Thank you
@@lawrencekownacki2112 i have, and rob cossman, matt estlee, etc etc.... Stavros is so far the ONLY UA-cam channel thats done it correctly.... Their techniques aren't natural... If you hold the blade perpendicular and sharpen it, like this, its actually far more comfortable, and gets a much straighter and sharp tool... The scary sharp puts it out by a thousand the diamonds take way to much material... And with a grinder stones and strop a little elbow grease you're gonna have a blade sharper than you could believe... And guess what almost zero burr... Theres the correct way, and the wrong way... This video is the correct way... All others are wrong and this is how you do it.
Stavros doesnt talk much in his videos...... but he does write detailed descriptions for his videos, there is lots of info in there, such as where the stones came from and the processes he uses, give it a read :) As you say Sir; there are as many ways as there are people......... whatever way works best for each person, is the best way for them, no such thing as right or wrong way :) Its good to experiment with sharpening procedures to find what suits us....... hand tools dont work if they are not sharp; this is the foundation of ALL hand tool work and the first skill we should try to master :) Thank you Stavros :)
I love sharpening my tools on a bench grinder and then just hitting the high spots on a flat stone, takes all the guesswork out of it and gives me a true razor sharp edge.
I first saw this sideways technique performed by Frank Klaus, since then this is the only technique I use! Do the same set the bevels on the bench grinder then sharpen sideways.
Very inspirering - and super sharp. I have never used honing guides, but I would be out of job if I used that much time honing. As a joiner in the seventies, I honed several times a day. Old school: a rough carborundum a couple of times, and the a lot on the belgian block or arkansas stone (both sides). But that was work :-) I enjoy watching this video anyway!
Great JOB! For the know it all people commenting, I seriously doubt they watched the entire vide. But for those of us that can’t afford an expensive grinding setup or 2x72 belt grinder…this is a good start. I’m sure there are lots of ways of sharpening. But this one seems simple and as a beginner I counted how many times each stone, etc. One thing I will know for sure is that if I copy this technique I will get similar results. “Processes don’t fail…People Do”. Thanks for helping me get over my fear of sharpening and reluctance to spend $800+ on a tormek!
I do similar. I progress the grits simultaneously, back and bevel. I pull the iron (the direction is towards the heel) as im going sideways so as not push the edge into the stone/diamond.
Cześć. Mam pytanie dotyczące stali na ostrza. Czego byś użył ? Okazuje się, że mamy dość duży wybór płaskowników. Na początku myślałem o NC11 VL która jest w fajnej cenie, może być bardzo twarda ale zapewne krucha, później trafiłem też na jakieś stale proszkowe... Masz jakiś pomysł na odpowiedni gatunek?
Cześć, niezależnie od tego jakiej ogólnodostępnej stali użyjesz nie zauważysz większych różnic. Nawet jeżeli stal może być bardzo twarda to i tak max który potrzebujesz uzyskać to 61-62 hrc. Jeżeli uzyskasz większą twardość bardzo trudno będzie ostrzyć taki nóż, a stal im twardsza tym bardziej krucha a nie o to chodzi w nożach do strugów.
@@StavrosGakos Dzięki. W między czasie już zaopatrzyłem się w NC11LV ale jeszcze nic z tym nie robiłem :) Pewnie trochę przesadziłem z tym materiałem ale nadzieja na 60HRC po uspokojeniu jest całkiem silna :)
Stavros, rękę Masz bez dwóch zdań 😉👍! Twoja technika dla tej grubości noży jest efektywna, ale wymaga wprawy i cierpliwości w trakcie nauki 😂. Przećwiczyłem i ogarniam wiele sposobów i, o dziwo, najbardziej leży mi „diament" i prowadnik firmy na V 😀. To chyba z lenistwa 😁. Nawet ostrzałkii na T nie chce mi się rozstawiać 🙂. No chyba, że kroi się grubsza reaktywacja noża. Dobra robota!
Well, I have never seen those sharpening plates before, might have to investigate. One other tool you use that I am curious about are the old chisels that have a blunt face on them and a short bevel. Looks like the face is sharpened at about 80 or so degrees negative angle, and you use them to flatten out where the plane blades will sit. I do wish you would do a short video at least about them. At just before 5 minute mark in this video, on your grinder, on the left hand side, it looks like you have a platform set up to sharpen those chisels. So, is that correct? Yes, there are so many ways to sharpen. Just like every thing else, I have to see what others do, and then experiment to find out what works best for me....
I did find several videos including Bill's. It seems like his are pretty square to the bottom of the chisel. One video said to go about 10 degrees off 90, but they didn't say positive or negative rake angle. Still worth playing around with. Might have to go to the next Flea Market....
Спасибо за хорошее видео! Давно смотрел на эти алмазные камни DMD, сразу их узнал. Хочу заменить ими свои старые DMT, они уже износились и меньшего размера. Вижу хорошо работают. Привет из России!
Thank you very much, friend, for sharing his experience of sharpening the cutting tool! I will definitely try this method when I buy a grinding machine. These stones don't look like anything I've seen before. Tell me where I can buy such stones, or their exact name.
Proste,łatwe i przyjemne. Tylko co z iskrami ze szlifierki? Zawsze się boję, że jakaś wleci w strużyny. Najlepiej robić to w innym pomieszczeniu, bo czasami może być niezłe ognisko. No i gaśnica to podstawa w stolarni czy w piwnicy. Dzięki za film, pozdrawiam.
I like the cleanliness of how you sharpen. What are these stones you are using? I must say from a professional sharpeners stand point. I am impressed. I am confused at the compound with the stones. Please explain. Thank you in advance.
@@StavrosGakos I appreciate the reply, I'm guilty of not reading descriptions. I just read everything. I was thinking it was compound because it seemed to have a green tint. I was confused. As usual another great video. Thanks!
This video has been a bit of a revelation for me, main advantage being that with normal front-to-back freehand sharpening there is always some rocking which means you don’t necessarily get the angle you want, it’s more of a curve. I sharpened sideways yesterday, and I have some very sharp chisels now! BTW Stavros I have a quick question about mortices on moulding planes that you will probably know the answer to, I have searched everywhere and not got a good answer.
@@StavrosGakos hi Stavros, It’s been a while since I looked at this… but it was about mortise geometry in moulding planes. I have a standard Nurse ovolo plane, and looking closely at the mortise, I can see the “lean” that Larry Williams talks about in his videos. But the mortise also seems to have a slight skew. This is slight and nothing like the properly skewed planes I have. Certainly the wedge is skewed, which helps to push the tang against the blind side of the mortise. But I am not sure if the mortise has a skew or whether this is simply due to having a slightly skewed wedge driven into it for 100 years. It also seems that the front and back of the mouth are not parallel - perhaps 5 deg. Shame I can’t post a pic or I would. But I’d be interested in your opinion, I want to make hollows and rounds and then some sash ovolo etc. I have been making some prototypes but I want to make sure the design is right. Thanks Steve
I know that the edge of the plane iron needs to be square, but does it need to be square with no visible light at all when held against the blade of an accurate square?
Cool method, I plan to try it out! I definitely need a better grinder setup though. I've never seen diamond stones that look like that... they look almost more like ceramic?
I think this is interesting but I don't use a grinder or make a concave bevel. I've been doing it similarly for a few years now. I call it inline (sharpening 'inline' w/ the edge, not across it) or 'sword' sharpening. I just don't bother w/ a 'micro-bevel'. I also put more effort into 'flattening' the back similar to this video.
I noticed you do not seem to use any water to rinse away the metal particles. Do yo have any specific reason for that? Apart from that I have been using this method for 2 years now, with great success!
Many thanks for your inspiring videos. I would love to see you make HNT Gordon style plane with brass boxing, for example dado plane would be interesting. I bet you don't have one yet.)))
Nice modern day method.The video is just what it is- a good guide with modern abrasives to honing your blades. However if you were about to RESTORE an old blade the game is different in my view and methods shown wouldn` t do it. Main reason is the back of old blades. They need much more heavy duty treatment, yours was in a very fresh shape and got by with a gentle tough-up. I think that for a serious treatment you` d bettergo with hammer tapping and 30 grit carborundum... But the video isn` t about restoration so I might be slightly off topic. I was also always asking myself- is it good to have to back polished to a couple thousands grit and take the edge to a rough 40 grit corrundum grinding wheel? Isn` t the burr to harsch to remove and potentially destructive to the back? I don` t think I` d go any coarser than an average sandstone but I leave this as an open question. Have a nice time, thank you for sharing.
Thanks, for restoration an old blade i always use 400 grit diamond stone before that process. Grinding scrathes on the edges of the hollow grind bevel are very easy to remove. It is safe, the back can't be destructed. Cheers
Sharpening is the theme of videos wich i always tried to avoid. The reason is simple - there are as many ways as there are people. What is the best for me it don't have to be the best for you, and vice versa. In the video i'm gonna show you my standard sharpening process. Basic stuff i need is bench grinder and diamond plates plus strop. That way works well only with hollow grind bevels so the bench grinder is "the foundation". You don't have to be scare about burning your blades and chisels - if you will be patient and careful you get perfect results. Remember about your safety, wear glasses and put on grinding wheel covers (yes, i know - i can't find my covers after my moving). If you need to were gloves, don't keep your hands close to the grinding wheel. I don't use them to control the temperature of the iron. During the video you'll notice that i don't use any lubricant during sharpening on my DMD diamond stones (i bought them on allegro dot pl - DMD osełka diamentowa). This is my personal prefference, i hate the mess with it. The main job for any lubricant is taking out tiny metal particles and keep the stone / plate clean and not let to get clog up. To get the same result i just use simple pencil eraser very often - it gives me clean surfece in few seconds. Another thing you'll notice is i hold the iron sideways (sharpening along the bevel edge). Every sharpening stone or plate leaves scratches - even very fine gradiations leave them. When the iron is sharpened perpendicular the edge looks like mico-saw plate. To eliminate it i just flip the iron about 90 degrees and work along the cutting angle. That method will gives you no scrathes across the cutting edge and superb results in less time. As the bonus - you don't need any honing guide. The accurate bevel angle is obteined on the bench grinder. The iron on the stone / diamond plane is easy to hold in sideways position and don't change the angle. If it's something new for you, you should try it :) Here are all steps i always follow: 1. Preparing the back of the iron. The back should be flat and gets mirror finish. After that step i don't touch this surface again (up to leather strop at the end of the sharpening process). 2. Grinding new bevel on the bench grinder. This step should brings small burr on the edge. I'm chilling the iron in clear and cold water. 3. Flattening the edges of hollow grind on the bevel. I continue up to get shiny and even lines on the full blade width. 4. When the step no 3 is done i use my finger and gently break the burr to the opposite side. Next i repeat the step no 3 few times. At this moment the burr should falls off. 5. If it's necessary now i'm rounding the tips of the blade. I use very light preasure of my fingers to not destroy surface of the diamond plate. 5. The last step is cleaning the cutting edge out of the rest of the burr. This is the main job for the leather strop, not polishing. You need clear cutting edge, not polished bevel. I clean once the back and once the bevel, over and over again. That process brings razor sharp edge. 6. I enjoy with my sharp iron / chisel, until the next sharpening :) I hope that i described it easy. If you have any questions just leave the comment. Cheers!
Your planes cut really well so you must be doing something right! 😁 Is your bench grinder just a regular speed grinder or a slow speed? Also, did you make the tool rest you were using to grind the bevel? It would be interesting to see how that's made and how it attaches.
@@Fair_dinkum I agree with your assessment - it looks like a single bevel of 25 degrees. I think the idea behind the 2nd bevel is it quicker to touch up because you are just polishing a small portion of the metal. The hollow grind produced by the bench grinder actually yields the same sort of result - a small area to polish - reducing the time required to sharpen and touch up.
Very nice. Can You share where I can buy such stones? Or the correct name of manufacturer? I use DMT and want to try some analog, like You show in video. It makes a good advertice) Nice result, with no lubricant. When I sharpen, everything and everywhere is black moisture with sheffield tungsten steel atoms and my hands are deeply black, especially fingertips, no soap can wash, only scraper sponge or a bit of washmachine powder. Thank!
Question: why are you flattening/polishing the back of the iron now? Should not that have been done before the first use. I’m not an expert. I know only what I have read and a little experience, aka amateur.
I first learned to sharpen from my father-in-law. He began his apprenticeship at the age of 14, in Germany, just after the war. He used the same hollow ground method. The hollow grind makes it so easy to feel your sharpening angle on the flat stones. Later, mostly through UA-cam, I was convinced to grind the primary bevel flat. It seemed more difficult to me to feel that sharpening angle on the flat stones, plus, once you do find that primary angle, then you raise it up a couple of degrees to create a secondary bevel. When you pick your iron up off the stone, and set it back down, or switch to another stone, you will never feel that secondary bevel. You are only ever guessing at it. With a hollow grind there is no secondary bevel to guess at. Because I switched to grinding my bevels flat, I've struggled for years to improve my sharpening. You've convinced me to try going back to hollow grind. Thank you.
I guess part of the reason I quit doing the hollow grind was that I didn't have a bench grinder wheel in a small enough diameter. At that time I only had an 8 or 10 inch diameter wheel. The wheel my father-in-law used was probably about 4 inches (I'm sure it probably started out as a 6 inch, but after many years of use it was down to 4 inches. Lol). It looks like your grinding wheel is 6 inch diameter. I think the diameter is key.
You're welcome Steve :)
It's a perfect.Thank you for your videos, hands and ideas.From Russia with support.
I have to say I’m very impressed with these results, I have never seen sharpening done this way in my 45 years of being a joiner, I’m certainly going to give it a go thank you for your professionalism it’s certainly appreciated
Sorry, but this is as old as the hills. I wrote an article on it 15 years ago. Harrelson Stanley put out a video "Side Sharpening" before this - just Google.
Thank you! Really appreciate this video. There are indeed many ways to sharpen but this ways shown is clear and simple. It is also easy to adapt to taste and equipment on hand.
As you say, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are people. Still, for those of us who are still learning, getting to know of different methods might help us finding what is comfortable for us, so thanks for sharing. And a great video as always, greetings from Argentina!
There's two ways to do anything. The right way and all the other ways. This is one of those other ways.
@@1pcfred Aristotle 🙂.
@@1pcfred Why?
@@KarinaZagorska you get a weaker edge because the scratch pattern is parallel with the edge as opposed to perpendicular with it. Honing guides give a better result faster and easier. There's no rational argument against using one. The guy making this video uses an angled tool rest. Why doesn't he just hold the tool freehand to the grind wheel? Because that'd be crappy, that's why. You can extend the same rationale to honing. It's all about consistent repeatable results.
Martin
It is not about sharpening the knife but showing the patch over went well.
The other thing is that you do not get to use mission Vallejo for a last name or its entirely standings of a culture for use to make you think you have ability to connect yourself. So as we said before you better find some other scam as you are not scamming these outlets anymore martin betelli aka rat
And do not place your biddies or circus using pur name or myself and say he has gracefully passed how much media did it cost you justice is just over the horizon.as the only thing here that is retired is you and you mainstream crap
Happy retirement either way you are on permanent retirement
AFFA angels never die nffn HMS sonny
I'd often wondered about sharpening like this and as I'd never seen anyone doing it assumed there was some deep hidden reason why. Seems my assumption was completely wrong! Since my skill at sharpenning seems to be turning a blunt chisel into a blunter one I've got nothing to lose giving this a go. Many thanks for opening my eyes (yet again) 😉👍
Thank you Stavros.
I have been using a similar procedure for over twenty five years. The difference is that I use a piece of red granite with wet/dry sandpaper up to 15000.
People who visit my shop say that my tools are terrifyingly sharp.
I also have multiple blades for my primary plains so that all I have to do is change it during a job. I then get them all together to sharpen. I can do a bunch at once which saves time because I only get the sharpening equipment out occasionally.
Excellent work as I have grown to expect. Please show a couple of failures so that we don’t put you on to high a pedestal. 😉Happy new year and greetings from the high plains of Texas.
Thanks Ryan :) haha i'm always trying to show mu fails :) happy New Year!
Золотое кольцо, на золотых руках! Спасибо за удовольствие, полученное при просмотре видео урока! Здоровья и удачи Вам большой Мастер!!!
thanks for posting this! this has been a game changer for me in my shop. I don't think any one sharpening method is "better" than others, but finding one that works for one's own self is really important, and this works for me!
Люблю бережно относиться к вещам!!! молодец мужик!!! так держать!👍 я такую работу на Гриндере провожу..
A friend who was also my Chargehand said that every trade has its skills that you learn from experience. Sometimes the guys you are working with as an apprentice don’t tell you everything, But with one exception, Window cleaning, and you can see through that straight away. 😀😀.
Great video and I think you really simplify the process. Interesting use of the eraser, without lubricant makes a lot is sense. The sideway approach is obvious to maintaining the bevel angle.
Keep up the videos they are great.
Can anyone explain about the use of the eraser or rubber?is that an art eraser, or a gum eraser, or other.
No kidding, Stavros-I was getting ready to ask you to do a video on your sharpening method! Thanks for reading my mind. Haha Seriously, thanks so much for showing us your techniques. I’m going to start using them asap. You’re The Best, Stavros!
👍👍👍
This is the method I used for many years. A great method, wonderfully executed. 👌👌👌 Thank you
Trend sell a sharpening jig that sharpens sideways. I was stupid enough to buy one. It was the worst tool I have ever purchased. I couldn’t sell it on eBay, because I didn’t want anyone else to waste their money on it so I chucked it in the scrap bin at the local tip. But this is a totally different thing altogether this is experience and practice. Beautiful work.
I am really enjoying your videos. This is what a true craftsman looks like. Not relying on thousands of dollars worth of Festool nonsense. (A monkey should be able to do nice work with a shop full of Festool crap.) but here is a real craftsman with real understanding of the work and the tools.
👍👍👍
You're the best Festool marketing rep I've ever met! Even a monkey can do nice work with Festools. Words to live by.
@@1pcfred hopefully everyone gets the idea - but you make a good point. Ha.
@@daveparker5569 the green in Festools is pure concentrated tool envy. Mined at a secret location.
@@1pcfred haha thanks :)
I've been using traditional back and forth rough sharpening followed by sideways honing because I figured a deep sideways scratch could destroy the edge. I recently picked up a decent 2nd hand Tormek so now I sharpen and wheel strop on the Tormek, then lightly sideways hone and strop... it's very quick and very effective 😀. I always had similar concerns as others that sideways is wrong, but it works for me and gives good results so err... enough said!
Ahhhhh! I’ve been waiting too long for this! Thank you!
You're welcome :)
Great I love the unique take. Instant "micro bevel". Brilliant! This makes so much sense.
Thanks, but i don't make any micro bevel ;)
@@StavrosGakos Understood, the curved surface makes it so you don't have to sharpen the whole surface. You only end up sharpening where you use it. A better spin on the micro bevel concept. I love your work. Very inspiring! Thanks
@@dmike1379 yes, i sharpen only edges of the hollow grind 👍 Cheers!
Nice demo. thanks. I too like sideways strokes on plane irons and chisels. I find it much easier to stay flat on the bevel. Also agree that a clean apex is much more important than a polished bevel. You can get hair cutting sharp from a #300 if you can completely remove the burr.
This is pretty similar to a method I started using last year, and I love the results. Obtaining a hollow grind on a wheel makes maintaining the same angle on the flat stones so much easier, and you only have to hone a little bit of the bevel. Honing parallel to the cutting edge is so much easier than pushing the blade as one would when cutting wood. Another tip I can offer is to make a strop out of wood. Plane the piece very flat, then charge it with stropping compound. Since it is flat and relatively hard, there's no chance of rounding over the edge, plus it's free and easy. It works on end grain or long grain, and it's easy to make curved strops for gouges.
Nice tip with the wood insted a strop👍
well done my friend. You do absolutely exquisite work. thank you for sharing
Πολύ ωραίο βίντεο. Καλημέρα και καλή χρονιά από Ελλάδα.
Only you could make a video on sharpening that makes it look like an artistic demonstration. Awesome! 🇦🇺👴🏻
Thank you Mark:)
Excellent video! I was just attempting to explain this method of sharpening to a young coworker and your video came along at the perfect time. Like many woodworkers, I purchased those honing guides because I thought I needed them. It wasn't until I learned to free hand sharpen that I learned how much easier it was than using a jig.
👍👍👍😉
Oglądam Twoje filmy od jakiegoś czasu i podziwiam z jaką precyzją, spokojem i kreatywnością tworzysz i naprawiasz narzędzia. Sam chciałbym zacząć swoją przygodę z drewnem. Teraz pracuję we Francji i tam mam możliwość zdobywać na ryneczkach staroci narzędzia do tego potrzebne. Już trochę tego mam i Twój kanał na pewno bardzo mi pomoże w przywróceniu ich do dawnej świetności. Na pewno będę się starał dojść do takiego poziomu precyzji jaki prezentujesz nam na swoich filmach. Serdecznie pozdrawiam i z niecierpliwością czekam na kolejne upload-y
Cześć Grzegorz! Powodzenia w odnawianiu :)
Супер! Смотрю и восхищаюсь вашим мастерством.
Thank you, I’ve been waiting for a video like this
Finally someone who sharpens the correct way! Think of how small stones used 100. Years ago where... Because they used this technique... Its accurate dont need a guide, and you dont need a larger stone... I have an arkansas stone thats 2x3 inches thats more than enough....
You don't need $1000 worth of sharpening tools just a few inexpensive tools .
Thank you
That's the point :) Cheers my friend!
I watched him many times and finally i choose the way i showed.
@@lawrencekownacki2112 i have, and rob cossman, matt estlee, etc etc.... Stavros is so far the ONLY UA-cam channel thats done it correctly.... Their techniques aren't natural... If you hold the blade perpendicular and sharpen it, like this, its actually far more comfortable, and gets a much straighter and sharp tool... The scary sharp puts it out by a thousand the diamonds take way to much material... And with a grinder stones and strop a little elbow grease you're gonna have a blade sharper than you could believe... And guess what almost zero burr...
Theres the correct way, and the wrong way... This video is the correct way... All others are wrong and this is how you do it.
Stavros doesnt talk much in his videos...... but he does write detailed descriptions for his videos, there is lots of info in there, such as where the stones came from and the processes he uses, give it a read :)
As you say Sir; there are as many ways as there are people......... whatever way works best for each person, is the best way for them, no such thing as right or wrong way :) Its good to experiment with sharpening procedures to find what suits us....... hand tools dont work if they are not sharp; this is the foundation of ALL hand tool work and the first skill we should try to master :)
Thank you Stavros :)
👍👍👍
Miło popatrzeć jak robisz takie precyzyjne prace.
I love sharpening my tools on a bench grinder and then just hitting the high spots on a flat stone, takes all the guesswork out of it and gives me a true razor sharp edge.
Outstanding! Can you please tell me what you were using to clean the hones between honings. Thank you
Thank you! It was pencil eraser 👍
Wreszcie zobaczyłem, jak naostrzyć nóż zdzieraka. Czas szukać zdzieraka, bo nie mam.
Stavros pozdrowienia
Na zdrówko :) pozdrowienia!
I first saw this sideways technique performed by Frank Klaus, since then this is the only technique I use! Do the same set the bevels on the bench grinder then sharpen sideways.
👍👍👍
Very inspirering - and super sharp. I have never used honing guides, but I would be out of job if I used that much time honing. As a joiner in the seventies, I honed several times a day. Old school: a rough carborundum a couple of times, and the a lot on the belgian block or arkansas stone (both sides). But that was work :-) I enjoy watching this video anyway!
Nice job. I,d likae to know if your iron plane blade is 25 or 30 degre? Thank you.
Thank you, i always make bevel about 25 deg. Cheers!
Great JOB! For the know it all people commenting, I seriously doubt they watched the entire vide. But for those of us that can’t afford an expensive grinding setup or 2x72 belt grinder…this is a good start. I’m sure there are lots of ways of sharpening. But this one seems simple and as a beginner I counted how many times each stone, etc. One thing I will know for sure is that if I copy this technique I will get similar results. “Processes don’t fail…People Do”. Thanks for helping me get over my fear of sharpening and reluctance to spend $800+ on a tormek!
Really fantastic work, man! Interesting techniques! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Stay safe? Since when we say that?
I do similar. I progress the grits simultaneously, back and bevel.
I pull the iron (the direction is towards the heel) as im going sideways so as not push the edge into the stone/diamond.
👍👍👍
Cześć. Mam pytanie dotyczące stali na ostrza. Czego byś użył ? Okazuje się, że mamy dość duży wybór płaskowników. Na początku myślałem o NC11 VL która jest w fajnej cenie, może być bardzo twarda ale zapewne krucha, później trafiłem też na jakieś stale proszkowe... Masz jakiś pomysł na odpowiedni gatunek?
Cześć, niezależnie od tego jakiej ogólnodostępnej stali użyjesz nie zauważysz większych różnic. Nawet jeżeli stal może być bardzo twarda to i tak max który potrzebujesz uzyskać to 61-62 hrc. Jeżeli uzyskasz większą twardość bardzo trudno będzie ostrzyć taki nóż, a stal im twardsza tym bardziej krucha a nie o to chodzi w nożach do strugów.
@@StavrosGakos Dzięki. W między czasie już zaopatrzyłem się w NC11LV ale jeszcze nic z tym nie robiłem :) Pewnie trochę przesadziłem z tym materiałem ale nadzieja na 60HRC po uspokojeniu jest całkiem silna :)
Jak mowi przyslowie Polak to potrafi😉
Always splendide work. Merci !
Great video! Intuitively, I also sharpen along the blade. Only much longer. You have some great sharpening stones!
Thanks! Hollow grind on the bevel makes whole sharpening quicker 👍
Interesting method.
I will try it.
Looking sharp my friend. : J
Stavros, rękę Masz bez dwóch zdań 😉👍! Twoja technika dla tej grubości noży jest efektywna, ale wymaga wprawy i cierpliwości w trakcie nauki 😂. Przećwiczyłem i ogarniam wiele sposobów i, o dziwo, najbardziej leży mi „diament" i prowadnik firmy na V 😀. To chyba z lenistwa 😁. Nawet ostrzałkii na T nie chce mi się rozstawiać 🙂. No chyba, że kroi się grubsza reaktywacja noża. Dobra robota!
Dzięki :) 👍👍👍
Now I wish you would make a video on building and sharpening moulding planes!
Well, I have never seen those sharpening plates before, might have to investigate. One other tool you use that I am curious about are the old chisels that have a blunt face on them and a short bevel. Looks like the face is sharpened at about 80 or so degrees negative angle, and you use them to flatten out where the plane blades will sit. I do wish you would do a short video at least about them. At just before 5 minute mark in this video, on your grinder, on the left hand side, it looks like you have a platform set up to sharpen those chisels. So, is that correct?
Yes, there are so many ways to sharpen. Just like every thing else, I have to see what others do, and then experiment to find out what works best for me....
Hey, it's called "Blunt chisels technique" please check two video's of Bill Carter, he explains it very well 👍 cheers
I did find several videos including Bill's. It seems like his are pretty square to the bottom of the chisel. One video said to go about 10 degrees off 90, but they didn't say positive or negative rake angle. Still worth playing around with. Might have to go to the next Flea Market....
Спасибо за хорошее видео! Давно смотрел на эти алмазные камни DMD, сразу их узнал. Хочу заменить ими свои старые DMT, они уже износились и меньшего размера. Вижу хорошо работают. Привет из России!
Dziękuję, pozdrowienia!
Thank you very much, friend, for sharing his experience of sharpening the cutting tool!
I will definitely try this method when I buy a grinding machine.
These stones don't look like anything I've seen before. Tell me where I can buy such stones, or their exact name.
Hey Voron, all informations where to buy them are in the description of the video. Have a nice evening!
DMD diamond stones (i bought them on allegro dot pl - DMD osełka diamentowa)
Nice job 👍🏼.
I have a certain question: what do you think the number of (smooth)for leather with green and white compounds?
Thanks, i write about it in the description. Cheers
What do you think about Diamond plates? I prefer them because you dont have to no that careful With them
I like them for the same reason 👍
great work what angle degree are you grinding at Stavros
Thanks, sometimes more sometimes less but always about 25
@@StavrosGakos same as i use 25 % to 28% thanks mate just curious
Very lucid. Great!!!👍👏😀
I tried it.
the sideways stropping really puts on a killer edge fast
can you ask where you bought these sharpening stones? Can you throw off the link? I want to buy these for myself. Thank you
Hey i wrote aboute it in the od the video. Cheers
Proste,łatwe i przyjemne. Tylko co z iskrami ze szlifierki? Zawsze się boję, że jakaś wleci w strużyny.
Najlepiej robić to w innym pomieszczeniu, bo czasami może być niezłe ognisko. No i gaśnica to podstawa w stolarni czy w piwnicy. Dzięki za film, pozdrawiam.
Od kiedy mam drewnianą podłogę robię to w pomieszczeniu obok. Pozdrowienia 😉
I like the cleanliness of how you sharpen. What are these stones you are using? I must say from a professional sharpeners stand point. I am impressed.
I am confused at the compound with the stones. Please explain.
Thank you in advance.
??
Hey, i've missed your comment, sorry. I explained it in the description. There wasn't compound, it was pencil eraser 👍
@@StavrosGakos I appreciate the reply, I'm guilty of not reading descriptions. I just read everything. I was thinking it was compound because it seemed to have a green tint. I was confused. As usual another great video. Thanks!
This video has been a bit of a revelation for me, main advantage being that with normal front-to-back freehand sharpening there is always some rocking which means you don’t necessarily get the angle you want, it’s more of a curve. I sharpened sideways yesterday, and I have some very sharp chisels now!
BTW Stavros I have a quick question about mortices on moulding planes that you will probably know the answer to, I have searched everywhere and not got a good answer.
Hey Steve, that's great! What's the question?
@@StavrosGakos hi Stavros, It’s been a while since I looked at this… but it was about mortise geometry in moulding planes. I have a standard Nurse ovolo plane, and looking closely at the mortise, I can see the “lean” that Larry Williams talks about in his videos. But the mortise also seems to have a slight skew. This is slight and nothing like the properly skewed planes I have. Certainly the wedge is skewed, which helps to push the tang against the blind side of the mortise. But I am not sure if the mortise has a skew or whether this is simply due to having a slightly skewed wedge driven into it for 100 years. It also seems that the front and back of the mouth are not parallel - perhaps 5 deg.
Shame I can’t post a pic or I would. But I’d be interested in your opinion, I want to make hollows and rounds and then some sash ovolo etc. I have been making some prototypes but I want to make sure the design is right.
Thanks
Steve
I know that the edge of the plane iron needs to be square, but does it need to be square with no visible light at all when held against the blade of an accurate square?
Yes, it should be square in that way 👍
@@StavrosGakos Thank you sir.
Cool method, I plan to try it out! I definitely need a better grinder setup though.
I've never seen diamond stones that look like that... they look almost more like ceramic?
Thank you! I wrote about this plates in the description. They have aluminium base and layer with diamonds.
what is the green stuff you are rubbing on the stones?
I wrote about it in the description
Sharp like reser 👍🏻
I think this is interesting but I don't use a grinder or make a concave bevel.
I've been doing it similarly for a few years now.
I call it inline (sharpening 'inline' w/ the edge, not across it) or 'sword' sharpening.
I just don't bother w/ a 'micro-bevel'.
I also put more effort into 'flattening' the back similar to this video.
Could you make a video for build a medium hand plane but the base is metal?
top!! nice sharpening stones.
Thank you for sharing your sharpening method.
Very timely!✌
Thank you so much for your very interesting.
My biggest surprise is that you do not use any fluid to sharpen
I noticed you do not seem to use any water to rinse away the metal particles. Do yo have any specific reason for that? Apart from that I have been using this method for 2 years now, with great success!
Hey, i just hate all that mess with wet sharpening :) Cheers!
Hola buen día gracias por tan buen video las piedras q usted utiliza me gustaría saber cómo conseguirla gracias
Thank you, i wrote about them in the description of the video. Cheers!
Where did you get your stones at I really like them?
@@danielgross6183 check the video description
hy, any idea for Drill bit sharpening jig...
Or wood planer knives sharpening please make next video
The GOAT
?
@@StavrosGakos the Greatest Of All Times
@@TheKlamad 👍👍👍
Hi Stavros , what is your sharpening stones brand? Thank,s
Hey! DMD. - you can find more info in the description of the video. Cheers!
The eraser trick is nice
what sharpening stone are these? Looks like Japanese but they are not water stones.What are they and where did you buy them from?
Hey, check description
Hi Stavros, what is the green stuff you are using to clean the stones?
Hey, it was pencil eraser 👍
Супер! 👍А чем вы натираете камни?
Dziękuję, wszystko jest opisane w opisie filmu. Pozdrawiam
Many thanks for your inspiring videos. I would love to see you make HNT Gordon style plane with brass boxing, for example dado plane would be interesting. I bet you don't have one yet.)))
Jak sprawują się te chińskie osełki?
Na ten moment nie mam do nich żadnych uwag. Pozdrawiam
Podziękowanie
Nice modern day method.The video is just what it is- a good guide with modern abrasives to honing your blades. However if you were about to RESTORE an old blade the game is different in my view and methods shown wouldn` t do it. Main reason is the back of old blades. They need much more heavy duty treatment, yours was in a very fresh shape and got by with a gentle tough-up. I think that for a serious treatment you` d bettergo with hammer tapping and 30 grit carborundum... But the video isn` t about restoration so I might be slightly off topic. I was also always asking myself- is it good to have to back polished to a couple thousands grit and take the edge to a rough 40 grit corrundum grinding wheel? Isn` t the burr to harsch to remove and potentially destructive to the back? I don` t think I` d go any coarser than an average sandstone but I leave this as an open question. Have a nice time, thank you for sharing.
Thanks, for restoration an old blade i always use 400 grit diamond stone before that process. Grinding scrathes on the edges of the hollow grind bevel are very easy to remove. It is safe, the back can't be destructed. Cheers
@@StavrosGakos Good to know that a coarse grit on the front wont do bad to the back. Got to try it however... Thanks.
Are you using buffing compound on the water stones?
Hey, no
So you are using a green pencil eraser on diamond plates, correct?
@@leomeilak6532 yup 👍
Sharpening is the theme of videos wich i always tried to avoid. The reason is simple - there are as many ways as there are people. What is the best for me it don't have to be the best for you, and vice versa. In the video i'm gonna show you my standard sharpening process. Basic stuff i need is bench grinder and diamond plates plus strop. That way works well only with hollow grind bevels so the bench grinder is "the foundation". You don't have to be scare about burning your blades and chisels - if you will be patient and careful you get perfect results.
Remember about your safety, wear glasses and put on grinding wheel covers (yes, i know - i can't find my covers after my moving). If you need to were gloves, don't keep your hands close to the grinding wheel. I don't use them to control the temperature of the iron.
During the video you'll notice that i don't use any lubricant during sharpening on my DMD diamond stones (i bought them on allegro dot pl - DMD osełka diamentowa). This is my personal prefference, i hate the mess with it. The main job for any lubricant is taking out tiny metal particles and keep the stone / plate clean and not let to get clog up. To get the same result i just use simple pencil eraser very often - it gives me clean surfece in few seconds.
Another thing you'll notice is i hold the iron sideways (sharpening along the bevel edge).
Every sharpening stone or plate leaves scratches - even very fine gradiations leave them.
When the iron is sharpened perpendicular the edge looks like mico-saw plate. To eliminate it i just flip the iron about 90 degrees and work along the cutting angle.
That method will gives you no scrathes across the cutting edge and superb results in less time.
As the bonus - you don't need any honing guide. The accurate bevel angle is obteined on the bench grinder. The iron on the stone / diamond plane is easy to hold in sideways position and don't change the angle.
If it's something new for you, you should try it :)
Here are all steps i always follow:
1. Preparing the back of the iron. The back should be flat and gets mirror finish. After that step i don't touch this surface again (up to leather strop at the end of the sharpening process).
2. Grinding new bevel on the bench grinder. This step should brings small burr on the edge. I'm chilling the iron in clear and cold water.
3. Flattening the edges of hollow grind on the bevel. I continue up to get shiny and even lines on the full blade width.
4. When the step no 3 is done i use my finger and gently break the burr to the opposite side.
Next i repeat the step no 3 few times. At this moment the burr should falls off.
5. If it's necessary now i'm rounding the tips of the blade. I use very light preasure of my fingers to not destroy surface of the diamond plate.
5. The last step is cleaning the cutting edge out of the rest of the burr. This is the main job for the leather strop, not polishing. You need clear cutting edge, not polished bevel. I clean once the back and once the bevel, over and over again. That process brings razor sharp edge.
6. I enjoy with my sharp iron / chisel, until the next sharpening :)
I hope that i described it easy. If you have any questions just leave the comment.
Cheers!
Liked a lot of your sharpening process! Many friends here may do different and that's just how thing is. Love the video, also
Your planes cut really well so you must be doing something right! 😁 Is your bench grinder just a regular speed grinder or a slow speed? Also, did you make the tool rest you were using to grind the bevel? It would be interesting to see how that's made and how it attaches.
@@ChristopherSalisburySalz thanks! It is normal speed bench grinder, tool test was there since i have it
@@Fair_dinkum I agree with your assessment - it looks like a single bevel of 25 degrees. I think the idea behind the 2nd bevel is it quicker to touch up because you are just polishing a small portion of the metal. The hollow grind produced by the bench grinder actually yields the same sort of result - a small area to polish - reducing the time required to sharpen and touch up.
@@Fair_dinkum yes, it always works the best :) thank you!
Very nice. Can You share where I can buy such stones? Or the correct name of manufacturer? I use DMT and want to try some analog, like You show in video. It makes a good advertice) Nice result, with no lubricant. When I sharpen, everything and everywhere is black moisture with sheffield tungsten steel atoms and my hands are deeply black, especially fingertips, no soap can wash, only scraper sponge or a bit of washmachine powder. Thank!
Hello, everything is in the description of the video
What kind of stones are those, brother?
Hey, please check description of the video.
Is that green honing compound you're putting on top of a diamond stone?
No, diamond stones are green, i use pencil eraser. Check the descriotion of the video.
What manufacturer of sharpening stones are those?
Hey Jeff, all is in the description of the video
Ostrzenie noża zdzieraka - mistrzostwo. Czym czyścisz swoje diamenty?
Dzięki, gumka do ołówka 👍
Bardzo dziękuję Stavros! Wszystko wytłumaczyłeś doskonale i pokazałeś na wideo! Chciałem Cię zapytać, gdzie można kupić takie oselki jak Twoje?
Czytaj w opisie
Dziękuję, wszystko jest w opisie filmu :)
what stones are you using?
Diamond stones, i wrote in the description
@@StavrosGakos oops, i meant which brand/model :)
I also am interested of knowing where it is possible to get diamond resinoid whetstones like this too !
@@MD-su8ft it's DMD
@@StavrosGakos thank you. I learned very cool things from your method !
Красота!
Very nice video as always !
can you give me the reference of your diamond stone plz (naniwa ?) ?
Greetings from a young french violin maker !
Thanks! I bought it on allegro dot pl , DMD osełka diamentowa
Cheers ;)
Question: why are you flattening/polishing the back of the iron now? Should not that have been done before the first use. I’m not an expert. I know only what I have read and a little experience, aka amateur.
Hey, i'm making it to make sure it's always flat. Cheers!
Great video! Thank you
Thank you.
Nice job!