Sharpening system I use: ua-cam.com/video/qZSLKDolCBU/v-deo.html Sharpening under the microscope: ua-cam.com/video/d19J_fdtuAU/v-deo.html Plates I use: www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
I say this not to boast, this is relevant. I hold two diplomas and a certificate of higher education in furniture making and design. I've been in college learning this for about 3/4 years, and I'm not young, I'm mid-late thirties, and *no one* has explained sharpening like this to me. Thank you for taking the time to share with us
I've been struggling with it for a couple years now. It's always discussed as being something so simple that it barely needed mentioning. It made me feel kinda stupid for having so much trouble. No youtuber has really gone into depth about it. This video gave me flashbacks to problems I've had, like "so THAT'S what I did wrong!" James's scientific-but-not-dogmatic approach is perfect for stuff like this. And he's awesome for answering a viewer question. A+ content.
Oddly enough I've watched many knife sharpening info videos, about mechanics and geometry including burr, but somehow this felt like something clicked even though I supposedly knew this already. Left me feeling like I had gained a bit of knowledge that improves my sharpening in practice.
Thank you for reminding us to keep it simple. I think it's all too easy to get obsessed with sharpening and go for that ultimate sharpness. But, in the end, it's all about getting it sharp enough as quickly as possible so that you can get on with what you're doing.
These kind of videos are the reason I hold you in the highest regard amongst them online woodworkers. Thank you for sharing your insight and promoting understanding and reflection. I believe you just provided me the tools to understand some recent setbacks of mine. Cheers and thanks a lot!
I appreciate the message that sharpening to excess is ultimately a diminishing return on one's time investment. Certain celebrities recommend sharpening to such extremes as they hawk their incredibly expensive super fine grit stones. I believe that to be fundamentally unscrupulous. It makes me appreciate your honesty about what actually works, and why.
Absolutely. The problem with super sharp is that by definition the edge is super fragile so after a few cuts with the tool the edge fractures and simply becomes sharp and you've wasted a lot of time. Personally I just use a very hard fine oil stone and a strop with honing compound. I get a nice burr in a few strokes which I take off with the strop, job done. Because it is so quick I can maintain the edge with frequent sharpening. I only use coarser stones or diamond plates or even a hand grinding wheel when I am restoring a blunt or chipped edge.
I'll jump on the bandwagon - this is the best explanation of the mechanics of sharpening I've ever seen. Like others, I've been woodworking for decades. I have sharpened my planes and chisels hundreds (thousands?) of times and have always been baffled why I would occasionally encounter an edge that needed to be redone. Or, after following my sharpening procedure, the edge was still too dull. I have a much better understanding of what's going on after watching your video. Thanks.
The burr is always spoken about in passing. I appreciate this video for being the first that I have seen dedicated to the burr. I do believe this to be the most thorough explanation on UA-cam, and it has saved me a lot of sharpening time in future. Thanks for the info!
I've been sharpening for a few months now and can get consistently shaving sharp edges. But I learned quite a bit from this video simply because of the use of the microscope. I really wished you had included a microscope shot after stropping just to visualize the effects of the strop on the burr. Mainly to confirm that the burr is, in fact, being removed and the burr isn't just getting finer and finer. Nevertheless, your microscope shots and those from "the science of sharp" website have been truly enlightening. I especially appreciate your microscope video (as opposed to pictures). Thank you.
Great explanation. I would also add that applying too much pressure on the strop can bend or round off the microscopic edge you've just worked so hard for.
My first level college course the chipie taught the simplest quickest techniques which I hated. But in hindsight considering the audience was kids just starting in site building carpentry it was actually quite good. Sharpen (only 1 stone availiable) then when you get the flippy floppy burr (Cheap soft chisels). Then slice the chisel across the wood block holding the stones. This scoring across softwood would strip away the burr.
Best video on sharpening I have ever seen! Thank you James. You’ve elevated my understanding on what is happening on a molecular level. This will change my technique for sure.
If you want a really big visual of this - semi freese a block of sharp cheddar, the standard ones that are 3/.75/6 ish. Try to sharpen that on your grater like you would a plane blade. Usually you have a coarse and fine side as well to help. Youll get a cheese burr. Its actually helpful to me to see that to understand how to get rid of or deal w the burr
I still use a honing guide but aim to spend a day free hand sharpening on my inferior chisels to see if it’s something I can do.Yourself,Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman can’t be wrong.I thank you for your educational efforts in spreading the gospel of hand tool woodworking.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Time to master perhaps but easy to start. I started freehand sharpening right away when I got my tools some year ago. Old and used but good tools, some cheap metaldiamondstone thingys and ta-daa, soon I got sharp chisels, planes and whatnot. You, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman, Rex Krueger and some other hand tool channels have been good teachers and source of inspiration for many things.
Great video as always, I knew the burr was important most sharpening videos talk about it but few are going to this level of detail and really explain what is a good burr and how it leads to a better edge. Once again thanks for sharing your knowledge 😉
This is a great video. Talking about the burr and how to get rid of it by sharpening the point really helps to explain what we are trying to do and what to feel and look for. One of your best.
Big takeaway for me is that the shiny strip is the bur. I’ve been thinking that I don’t have the new edge right out to the tip. Going to save me a lot of time and steel.
I understand now what's happening on microscopic, I can't say I wasn't being to hard on myself to learn sharpening but what's learned is learned I can take it easy now. I mean it's a constant reminder to be happy have have fun as it's what's most important but I always believe I must to things proper. I didn't give up and I learned but the cost is...I have a bunch of people worry about me 😅.
7:14 this is the first time I realized that I had too thick of a burr. And was scratching the strop, thanks so much for explaining it to me might be able to get a better edge now!
One consideration that affects how I deal with the burr and the chisel back is my own set up which is a plywood box I made to suspend a water stone in. These days I use diamond plates, but the same box. Because it is elevated I have good access to both faces of the chisel. So, I generally do the bevel until I feel the burr - or wire edge . Then I flip it, lay about an inch of the back on the stone, and with two or three strokes remove the burr. Then I swap out the stone for the next, and repeat. I strop it with the strop (home made) mounted on the same box. Essentially the materials and end results are identical. The set up makes the difference. I might spend perhaps 15 seconds longer per stone, and stropping would be a wash. It has always been easier to do both faces. I realized watching this that if I used a set up like yours (or Paul Sellers or Stumpy Nubs), I would be doing it exactly the way you show. I think I got the idea for my box reading something by Ian Kirby.
Thanks for this! Helps explain what I was finding with inconsistent sharpness... I was making the burr too big on the course stone. This should really help me get a better edge.
Excellent descriptions on the burr, James, very easy to understand. My issue is pressure and it's hard to quantify that in a video. I have quite a few Arkansas stones and that's what I started with. And you can push pretty hard on a stone. So when I got my first diamond stone, I was pushing down way too hard. I started getting better edges when I lightened up. And when you finish up on a hard Arkansas stone, my goodness it's a beautiful polished edge.
The levels of steel are new to me. I guess I never really paid that close of attention to it. Sharpened my chisels last year and I do recall the burr being quite large. The set I own is a stanley set. Very inexpensive but for now they work.
Huh the knife sharpener I have specifically says to do both sides of the knife with the same grit before moving on but I do really like your explanation on doing it one side at a time. Will try that next time I sharpen my marking knife.
With a knife you need to do both sides as it has two bevels. You need to keep the cutting edge in the middle of the blade. But with a chisel there is only one bevel.
My question is; when does this process stop being productive and become obsessive? I understand wanting clean cuts, but quite a bit of chisel work is across the grain of the wood, does this require having razor+ sharpness? I would think that if you demanded razor+ sharpness, you would be spending most of your time making the chisel sharp than doing the work. Very informative. You have explained this very well.
I think it’s about compartmentalizing your efforts. You sharpen to a razor edge because you already got out your stones and you want to make the most of that setup time. Then you get a bit more use out of it until it’s dull enough to justify another sharpening.
As always, a nice, practical explanation and demonstration of contentious topic. However, 1 star for not breaking into the hit no-where-near Broadway song "The Stone Where it Happens" that Lin-Manuel ripped off for his little musical 😏
Excellent extension of the basic "how to sharpen" type of videos. Worse "Dad Joke" than usual - if you've taken off the burr, you've de-burred. 😊 Thank you.
Your technique really gives you an edge. |I loved the microscope shots, it's fun to see the movement I've been able to feel before, but couldn't ever see.
When I was a beginner I would often remove the burr between each grit because I wasn’t confident that I kept my angle the same and wanted to be sure I was reaching the tip at each level. I would use my fine stone or the strop each time tho, never used a coarse stone on a polished back
Best sharpening video I've ever seen, thanks for the great info. Just one thing I would like to know is what brand and what grits are the diamond plates you are using.
You were making me extremely nervous waving your hand around that sharp edge the whole video 😮 You could imagine my relief when you got to end unscathed 😅
One way I was told how to check that you have produced a burr and/or whether the burr is still there even when too fine to see - wet the back of the chisel and if excess water/fluid is drawn to the tip ( which will be easily visible ) then the burr is still there.
Thank you for your videos. They do help me. I was wondering what liquid do you use? It appears to be window cleaner. I have used several different types, and the one I am presently using is quite pricey. This demo was very enlightening for me.
On the diamond plates I just used the cheap dollar store window cleaner. It just has to move the shavings around and then evaporate quickly so that it doesn't rust anything.
Incredibly helpful content and appreciate the video! Does the same apply with a scraper plane where you have to burnish the burr or would you recommend spending a bit more time on the coarse stone?
I'd encourage you to spend as little time as you need. Problems with card scrapers are usually caused by too much work, squishing it too far over. Fewer strokes then test.
I watched this a few days ago and now just tried this out and damn good job James. How often if ever do you work the flat or back of a blade? Apologies if you remark on this in the vid itself.
The one thing i was thinking about is wear on the back (flat side) that is the reason i hone my on both sides. I see both as bevels, just one is flat and long and one is hollowground and short (after reground on the grindstone) But i was thaugt sharpening on scandinavian style carving/belt knifes and carving-axes. Double flat bevel freehand ground and honed as flat as possible (so microscopically rounded over) Was thaught to hone on about a 1200 slate/shale stone (loosbryne) on both sides untill the burr is almost gone and then finish on a strop with autosol crome polish and then perhaps a clean strop for ultimate sharpness or untill the entire burr is gone flipping many times with lighter and lighter preassure (check with edge of fingernail) and strop on clean strop. Deburring on a piece of wood was thaught as a good hack if you do not have the time to hone properly but it was emphasized that it creates a ragged edge that only appears sharp But that just the way i was thaught. Any way that works is good
I want to hate you so bad but between the jokes and the information I am resigned to thinking you are some kind of wood working angel.. Why are we so lucky?
Why switch directions? Is that just a visual indication? Do you sharpen on the pull stroke, the push stroke, or both directions? I usually only apply pressure on the push stroke and never really get that razor's edge.
I change directions just so you can see the scratch patterns in the microscope. On diamonds I sharpen in both directions. On mam made wet stones I only sharpen on the pull.
Thanks for this - the burr has always been a mystery to me. What about scrapers? The burr is supposed to be folded over or something? I know next to nothing about scrapers or sharpening them. Have you done a video on them by chance?
Yep, you create like a mushroom shaped head on the top. A hook, as it's known. Think James has done a video on sharpening, but I could be wrong. You'd need a burnisher to do it properly. There is nothing better than the feel you get from a freshly created hook.
That might be a good one for the future. it is the same thing but rather then sharpening in the burr you are pushing it. you are literally just mashing the edge down to make it push out to the sides.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Would be great to see the burr on a scraper under a microscope if it's something interesting to look at. And maybe you can see the difference microscopically between different angles for the scraper
Ok, I have a question about initial sharpening when restoring a vintage chisel. Would it be better to go through a couple of sharpening cycles with less strokes on the stone/plate to slowly build up a consistent bevel across the tip. Or do more strokes initially until the bevel is completely flat and you get a burr completely across the tip?
What should I do if I create too big of a burr on lower grits? Should I remove it (by stropping the back?) and restart on the same grit until I have a smaller burr?
Sharpening system I use: ua-cam.com/video/qZSLKDolCBU/v-deo.html
Sharpening under the microscope: ua-cam.com/video/d19J_fdtuAU/v-deo.html
Plates I use: www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
I say this not to boast, this is relevant. I hold two diplomas and a certificate of higher education in furniture making and design. I've been in college learning this for about 3/4 years, and I'm not young, I'm mid-late thirties, and *no one* has explained sharpening like this to me. Thank you for taking the time to share with us
Thirties, eh...wait until you try to figure this out in your 60's!
I've been struggling with it for a couple years now. It's always discussed as being something so simple that it barely needed mentioning. It made me feel kinda stupid for having so much trouble. No youtuber has really gone into depth about it. This video gave me flashbacks to problems I've had, like "so THAT'S what I did wrong!" James's scientific-but-not-dogmatic approach is perfect for stuff like this. And he's awesome for answering a viewer question. A+ content.
Ahhaaa! Don't touch the flat until it is stroptime, just the bevel! Oh, boy, it makes so much sense. So many thanks, mr. Wright.
There are just simple things that are never explained by experts because they take them for granted that everyone should know this stuff... Thanks
Oddly enough I've watched many knife sharpening info videos, about mechanics and geometry including burr, but somehow this felt like something clicked even though I supposedly knew this already. Left me feeling like I had gained a bit of knowledge that improves my sharpening in practice.
I was very thankful when James taught me about the “too big a burr”. Completely elevated my sharpening!
Thank you for reminding us to keep it simple. I think it's all too easy to get obsessed with sharpening and go for that ultimate sharpness. But, in the end, it's all about getting it sharp enough as quickly as possible so that you can get on with what you're doing.
That was a very insightful explanation! I will now stop taking the burr of early and making it large. Thank you!
These kind of videos are the reason I hold you in the highest regard amongst them online woodworkers. Thank you for sharing your insight and promoting understanding and reflection. I believe you just provided me the tools to understand some recent setbacks of mine. Cheers and thanks a lot!
I appreciate the message that sharpening to excess is ultimately a diminishing return on one's time investment. Certain celebrities recommend sharpening to such extremes as they hawk their incredibly expensive super fine grit stones. I believe that to be fundamentally unscrupulous. It makes me appreciate your honesty about what actually works, and why.
Absolutely. The problem with super sharp is that by definition the edge is super fragile so after a few cuts with the tool the edge fractures and simply becomes sharp and you've wasted a lot of time. Personally I just use a very hard fine oil stone and a strop with honing compound. I get a nice burr in a few strokes which I take off with the strop, job done. Because it is so quick I can maintain the edge with frequent sharpening. I only use coarser stones or diamond plates or even a hand grinding wheel when I am restoring a blunt or chipped edge.
I'll jump on the bandwagon - this is the best explanation of the mechanics of sharpening I've ever seen. Like others, I've been woodworking for decades. I have sharpened my planes and chisels hundreds (thousands?) of times and have always been baffled why I would occasionally encounter an edge that needed to be redone. Or, after following my sharpening procedure, the edge was still too dull. I have a much better understanding of what's going on after watching your video. Thanks.
Cool. Very clear explanation and nice clear microscope shots. It was neat seeing that burr actually bending back and forth under your finger.
The burr is always spoken about in passing. I appreciate this video for being the first that I have seen dedicated to the burr. I do believe this to be the most thorough explanation on UA-cam, and it has saved me a lot of sharpening time in future. Thanks for the info!
I've been sharpening for a few months now and can get consistently shaving sharp edges. But I learned quite a bit from this video simply because of the use of the microscope. I really wished you had included a microscope shot after stropping just to visualize the effects of the strop on the burr. Mainly to confirm that the burr is, in fact, being removed and the burr isn't just getting finer and finer.
Nevertheless, your microscope shots and those from "the science of sharp" website have been truly enlightening. I especially appreciate your microscope video (as opposed to pictures). Thank you.
Great explanation. I would also add that applying too much pressure on the strop can bend or round off the microscopic edge you've just worked so hard for.
My first level college course the chipie taught the simplest quickest techniques which I hated. But in hindsight considering the audience was kids just starting in site building carpentry it was actually quite good.
Sharpen (only 1 stone availiable) then when you get the flippy floppy burr (Cheap soft chisels). Then slice the chisel across the wood block holding the stones.
This scoring across softwood would strip away the burr.
Very informative. I learnt a lot. I’ve only been at it for 60 years.
Clear no nonsense explanation
Best video on sharpening I have ever seen! Thank you James. You’ve elevated my understanding on what is happening on a molecular level. This will change my technique for sure.
If you want a really big visual of this - semi freese a block of sharp cheddar, the standard ones that are 3/.75/6 ish. Try to sharpen that on your grater like you would a plane blade. Usually you have a coarse and fine side as well to help. Youll get a cheese burr. Its actually helpful to me to see that to understand how to get rid of or deal w the burr
Thank you. I can't wait for the spreadsheet.
I still use a honing guide but aim to spend a day free hand sharpening on my inferior chisels to see if it’s something I can do.Yourself,Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman can’t be wrong.I thank you for your educational efforts in spreading the gospel of hand tool woodworking.
Freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, but once you put in the effort it is amazing how east sharpening becomes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Time to master perhaps but easy to start. I started freehand sharpening right away when I got my tools some year ago. Old and used but good tools, some cheap metaldiamondstone thingys and ta-daa, soon I got sharp chisels, planes and whatnot. You, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman, Rex Krueger and some other hand tool channels have been good teachers and source of inspiration for many things.
i really appreciate your attention to detail. the micro shots really help. + love what you said at end. May the Burr be with you :-)
This is one of the best, most digestible sharpening videos ive seen.
Great video as always, I knew the burr was important most sharpening videos talk about it but few are going to this level of detail and really explain what is a good burr and how it leads to a better edge. Once again thanks for sharing your knowledge 😉
Excellent, I need to stop overthinking my process.
This is a great video. Talking about the burr and how to get rid of it by sharpening the point really helps to explain what we are trying to do and what to feel and look for. One of your best.
This makes so much sense, yet I've never given this topic a second thought!
This video was so much a learning experience for me. Learned something new today. TY.
Thanks for making sense of the burr, and how its size matters. I have a better understanding of why my sharp is inconsistent.
Thank James. Very helpful. As always !
Excellent research and presentation.
Excellent detailed explanation. The difference when you ran your finger along the edge under microscope was very beneficial!
Big takeaway for me is that the shiny strip is the bur. I’ve been thinking that I don’t have the new edge right out to the tip. Going to save me a lot of time and steel.
I like your practical approach: enough is enough - don't go crazy. There is enough craziness in the world😊.
Thank you!
Thanks, these are good details to know. I'm getting there with sharpening, but am not great yet. This will likely help.
Thank you. That explains some things I was seeing but didn't understand yet. Keep the great videos coming.
Well done mate and thanks for the help !
I understand now what's happening on microscopic, I can't say I wasn't being to hard on myself to learn sharpening but what's learned is learned I can take it easy now.
I mean it's a constant reminder to be happy have have fun as it's what's most important but I always believe I must to things proper.
I didn't give up and I learned but the cost is...I have a bunch of people worry about me 😅.
Thank you! I learned a lot here.
I really found this helpful. Thank you
Great explanation. This is similar to Brian Boggs philosophy on sharpening, though his approach is to avoid creating a bur at all.
7:14 this is the first time I realized that I had too thick of a burr. And was scratching the strop, thanks so much for explaining it to me might be able to get a better edge now!
One consideration that affects how I deal with the burr and the chisel back is my own set up which is a plywood box I made to suspend a water stone in. These days I use diamond plates, but the same box. Because it is elevated I have good access to both faces of the chisel. So, I generally do the bevel until I feel the burr - or wire edge . Then I flip it, lay about an inch of the back on the stone, and with two or three strokes remove the burr. Then I swap out the stone for the next, and repeat. I strop it with the strop (home made) mounted on the same box. Essentially the materials and end results are identical. The set up makes the difference. I might spend perhaps 15 seconds longer per stone, and stropping would be a wash. It has always been easier to do both faces. I realized watching this that if I used a set up like yours (or Paul Sellers or Stumpy Nubs), I would be doing it exactly the way you show. I think I got the idea for my box reading something by Ian Kirby.
Thanks for this! Helps explain what I was finding with inconsistent sharpness... I was making the burr too big on the course stone. This should really help me get a better edge.
Best explanation I've seen on this topic.
Thanks for the clarification. It came at just the right time as in the process of sharpening my new chisels
Excellent descriptions on the burr, James, very easy to understand. My issue is pressure and it's hard to quantify that in a video. I have quite a few Arkansas stones and that's what I started with. And you can push pretty hard on a stone. So when I got my first diamond stone, I was pushing down way too hard. I started getting better edges when I lightened up. And when you finish up on a hard Arkansas stone, my goodness it's a beautiful polished edge.
Even on an arkansas stone i get a sharper edge by being as light on the hand as possible for the final passes
The levels of steel are new to me. I guess I never really paid that close of attention to it.
Sharpened my chisels last year and I do recall the burr being quite large. The set I own is a stanley set. Very inexpensive but for now they work.
Thanks for the video! Interesting as always.
Very clear precise description
Very subtle gag, there before the final joke... :D
Thanks James!
Huh the knife sharpener I have specifically says to do both sides of the knife with the same grit before moving on but I do really like your explanation on doing it one side at a time. Will try that next time I sharpen my marking knife.
With a knife you need to do both sides as it has two bevels. You need to keep the cutting edge in the middle of the blade. But with a chisel there is only one bevel.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo ohhhhhh I see
My question is; when does this process stop being productive and become obsessive? I understand wanting clean cuts, but quite a bit of chisel work is across the grain of the wood, does this require having razor+ sharpness? I would think that if you demanded razor+ sharpness, you would be spending most of your time making the chisel sharp than doing the work.
Very informative. You have explained this very well.
I think it’s about compartmentalizing your efforts. You sharpen to a razor edge because you already got out your stones and you want to make the most of that setup time. Then you get a bit more use out of it until it’s dull enough to justify another sharpening.
As always, a nice, practical explanation and demonstration of contentious topic. However, 1 star for not breaking into the hit no-where-near Broadway song "The Stone Where it Happens" that Lin-Manuel ripped off for his little musical 😏
Always thought of the bur as a little thing, lol. Never thought that a bigger bur takes more of the edge with it when it is removed! Thanks.
Oops. Forgot these, rr.
Great explanation. I learned allot.
Excellent extension of the basic "how to sharpen" type of videos. Worse "Dad Joke" than usual - if you've taken off the burr, you've de-burred. 😊 Thank you.
Excellent tutorial on practical sharpening.
Your technique really gives you an edge.
|I loved the microscope shots, it's fun to see the movement I've been able to feel before, but couldn't ever see.
When I was a beginner I would often remove the burr between each grit because I wasn’t confident that I kept my angle the same and wanted to be sure I was reaching the tip at each level. I would use my fine stone or the strop each time tho, never used a coarse stone on a polished back
You rock man, advice as usual :)
Really excellent tips, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great vid James, made me think I may have been over sharpening, will give this a try. Thanks.
Another sharp video 🎉
Useful information, thanks
Yep. This is IT🥂
Well said!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and the nice views with the microscope!
Bill Burr teaching us about burrs, how fitting.
That was awesome man
Best sharpening video I've ever seen, thanks for the great info. Just one thing I would like to know is what brand and what grits are the diamond plates you are using.
There is a link to the exact stones I use in the description. I use the corse, fine and extra fine.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks for that info, and your awesome video!
You were making me extremely nervous waving your hand around that sharp edge the whole video 😮
You could imagine my relief when you got to end unscathed 😅
ya the crushed depth of field in the camera makes things look close when they are not.
thanks
Thanks 👍
Great video
Good job
One way I was told how to check that you have produced a burr and/or whether the burr is still there even when too fine to see - wet the back of the chisel and if excess water/fluid is drawn to the tip ( which will be easily visible ) then the burr is still there.
Thank you for your videos. They do help me. I was wondering what liquid do you use? It appears to be window cleaner. I have used several different types, and the one I am presently using is quite pricey. This demo was very enlightening for me.
On the diamond plates I just used the cheap dollar store window cleaner. It just has to move the shavings around and then evaporate quickly so that it doesn't rust anything.
Incredibly helpful content and appreciate the video! Does the same apply with a scraper plane where you have to burnish the burr or would you recommend spending a bit more time on the coarse stone?
with the card scraper you are not doing any of the grinding. the burnishing rod jut pushes the steel out to the sides.
I'd encourage you to spend as little time as you need. Problems with card scrapers are usually caused by too much work, squishing it too far over. Fewer strokes then test.
I watched this a few days ago and now just tried this out and damn good job James. How often if ever do you work the flat or back of a blade? Apologies if you remark on this in the vid itself.
Once the back is polished I only touch it on the strop at the end. Never touch it on the stones again unless there is a problem.
It's cold in here.
Brrrrr.
Wau. I learned a lot with this. I thank You!
The one thing i was thinking about is wear on the back (flat side) that is the reason i hone my on both sides. I see both as bevels, just one is flat and long and one is hollowground and short (after reground on the grindstone)
But i was thaugt sharpening on scandinavian style carving/belt knifes and carving-axes. Double flat bevel freehand ground and honed as flat as possible (so microscopically rounded over)
Was thaught to hone on about a 1200 slate/shale stone (loosbryne) on both sides untill the burr is almost gone and then finish on a strop with autosol crome polish and then perhaps a clean strop for ultimate sharpness or untill the entire burr is gone flipping many times with lighter and lighter preassure (check with edge of fingernail) and strop on clean strop. Deburring on a piece of wood was thaught as a good hack if you do not have the time to hone properly but it was emphasized that it creates a ragged edge that only appears sharp
But that just the way i was thaught. Any way that works is good
I've pulled off little hairs from stroppingbit none with my 10,000 grit shapton glass stone!!!
You can get there on even a 1200 stone if you just can get the burr off cleanly. 10000 would be nice for the straight razor though
Watch my fair share of sharpening vids but this was new and helpful. It may explain inconsistent results
Students!?! Where can I sign up! 😁
I think I can sharpen stuff much better just by watching this.
I want to hate you so bad but between the jokes and the information I am resigned to thinking you are some kind of wood working angel.. Why are we so lucky?
Lol. Thanks for making my night.
Why switch directions? Is that just a visual indication?
Do you sharpen on the pull stroke, the push stroke, or both directions?
I usually only apply pressure on the push stroke and never really get that razor's edge.
I change directions just so you can see the scratch patterns in the microscope. On diamonds I sharpen in both directions. On mam made wet stones I only sharpen on the pull.
That's a BURRRRRRilliant video :)
Hi
Burfect video, Cheers.
The Burr, explained by: Bill Burr.
Thank you.
Thanks for this - the burr has always been a mystery to me. What about scrapers? The burr is supposed to be folded over or something? I know next to nothing about scrapers or sharpening them. Have you done a video on them by chance?
Yep, you create like a mushroom shaped head on the top. A hook, as it's known. Think James has done a video on sharpening, but I could be wrong. You'd need a burnisher to do it properly. There is nothing better than the feel you get from a freshly created hook.
That might be a good one for the future. it is the same thing but rather then sharpening in the burr you are pushing it. you are literally just mashing the edge down to make it push out to the sides.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Would be great to see the burr on a scraper under a microscope if it's something interesting to look at. And maybe you can see the difference microscopically between different angles for the scraper
Ok, I have a question about initial sharpening when restoring a vintage chisel. Would it be better to go through a couple of sharpening cycles with less strokes on the stone/plate to slowly build up a consistent bevel across the tip. Or do more strokes initially until the bevel is completely flat and you get a burr completely across the tip?
I usually would do it all at once and grind the bevel to be what I wanted to be. Really rough sandpaper does quick work of that.
where did you get all of your stones.
I have a link to the exact ones I use in the discription. I originally got them in a woodcraft store.
What should I do if I create too big of a burr on lower grits? Should I remove it (by stropping the back?) and restart on the same grit until I have a smaller burr?
You can keep going just be careful not to break it off early
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you for replying to an older video!!
I got the Point
very helpful